Reddit mentions: The best spiral router bits

I’m using Kool Mist for just about everything and I’ve been happy with it. It’s cheap, works well and doesn’t leave a huge mess. If I could run a proper flood coolant system I would, but due to being an open machine I can’t.

The bath is super easy, it’s just a bit more involved to set up. If I had an enclosed machine, I’d be inclined to run it with flood coolant every time, but I’d be worried about that getting into the machine. Getting that powder on your ways is fucking terrible and can destroy a machine pretty quickly if you’re not cleaning everything after each time you cut CF. I think the extra time for setup is worth it, but I’m not running production or having to hold super tight tolerances in most cases.

I’ve mainly been doing 3mm CF using 1/8” end mills. I’m pretty sure I’m using what you’re describing. I get the coated carbide diamond pattern end mills from Amazon. (HQMaster 10Pcs CNC Rotary Burrs Set End Mill Engraving Bits PCB Milling Bits 1/8'' Shank Titanium Coated Tungsten Steel Corn Milling Cutter Tool for SMT Mold Plastic Fiber Wood Carbon Insulation Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3Z5FJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7YTCbMCMRXQ1). They’re incredibly cheap, last pretty long and give a surprisingly good finish. It doesn’t feel right that they work so well.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppmfdrz532wbtu4/Photo%20Apr%2017%2C%204%2054%2020%20AM.jpg?dl=0

Here’s the part I cut last night. I’m very happy with those end mills. Especially considering I was using a 400 watt spindle slapped onto the Fryer’s head ahah.

Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.

Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.

Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.

One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.

I think this set is small enough and cheap enough that it makes sense. Plus, if you want to experiment with the edge treatment that you give a project, it is nice to have a few options. It wouldn't be fun to decide that you want an ogee and then spend the $50 on a nice ogee bit only to change your mind once you try it on some scrap.

I would recommend a spiral bit though if you plan on doing any mortises.

Thanks, good to know, I ordered some limit switches to install.
I have an old raspberry pi 2b, I have read about people running CNCJS. Would that allow me to run it remotely.
Looking to run it in the garage hopefully without a laptop running it, but I could cobble something together.
I do have access to a 3D Printer so I am going to do some upgrades.

I want to mill Hardwood, just outlines for now.
I have some of these bits: https://www.amazon.ca/Carbide-AFUNTA-Milling-Acrylic-Hardwood/dp/B07FGFHTG8/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2EQ6A8Q98GGQ&keywords=cnc+router+bits&qid=1571626316&sprefix=cnc+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-9
Should that be fine or should I look at something else.

I get some burning with a depth of .5mm per pass and 120mm/min feed rate.

I just bought these plans from Gregory Paolini and built the jig. Here's a video (poor audio) of a guy using it.

Here's my build: http://imgur.com/a/5G8TT, which I just completed last week. I bought a Whiteside spiral up cut bit which has been amazing so far on my test cuts. I bought some 36" and 24" of this t-track, this set of Incra knobs since I didn't have any and didn't want to make from scratch on the band saw, and a couple of these toggles.

I don't have a good way to mount my dust collection cart yet, but I'm still tweaking it. So far, I'm really happy with the jig.

Really worth trying a 1/8" endmill. They can be had quite cheeply and are available with the same diameter shank as your 1/4" bit.

Have fun cutting stuff and come join us on /r/shapeoko!

make 5 identical plywood boxes.

you'll probably need additional tools to construct this.

if you can afford it, the makita 1-1/4hp router and a whiteside 1/4" upspiral bit are the only two additional tools necessary to construct both the boxes and drawers. use a straight edge for the guide.

if you want to go with hand tools only, you'll need a rabbet plane.

I wouldn't have even tried using a ball end mill. They do give really interesting machining artifacts though. Have you tried something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C

That's the style of engraving bit I usually use, though it's not often.

When cutting aluminum on a router, you have to rely on the chip to remove the heat from the cut zone. A single flute cutter, like this Onsrud O-flute gives a nice fat chip that will allow you to get a clean cut without using coolant. For this 1/4" bit, start off at 18,500 rpm on your spindle, 85 inches/min (2200 mm/min) on your feed rate and 3-4mm on your DOC.

Source: thousands of sheets of aluminum through my router.

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RFTD1600-Diameter/dp/B0012JJZLS

Step 1. Download MillrightCNC app on your phone / tablet

Step 2. Purchase these bits on Amazon for dirt cheap : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 3. Make sure you use T6061 aluminum (it is easier to mill)

Step 4. Use lubricant while it's cutting so the aluminum doesn't melt to the bit! (I use WD40)

Here are the settings I used in the vid:

Feedrate: 770mm/min

Depth of Cut: .6mm

Spindle RPM: 17k

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Here is a pic of the final result of what I was cutting:

https://imgur.com/kLv9LfZ

The problem that i see with forstner bits is that they have a point in the center, which will create a little hole below each spot where you plunge the forstner. That's why I suggested using a flat-bottomed router bit in your drill.

Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RU2100-Standard/dp/B000K2BGNS

THESE are my most used bits...I use them to cut aluminum and MDF all day long. They're cheap, but stay sharp for longer than you'd expect

I use THESE for engraving...and yes, I use them in aluminum as well

For Vcarving, I use THIS I've probably ordered 3 of these in a 1 year time span but cut A LOT of MDF with it

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In the beginning, don't buy expensive bits....it's a waste of $$$ until you get your feedrate and DOC figured out. I also highly recommend you download the millrightCNC app for your phone or tablet to figure out your feedrate / RPM / Depth of Cut / Chiploads.

then, there's some 1mm (3mm deep) single flute with 1/8 shank on Amazon (example : https://www.amazon.com/HUHAO-Router-Cutting-Diameter-Length/dp/B07KD83GLL/ ), that should work if you manage to dial the right feed and DOC to get chips without breaking it.

Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers

I think I've found my mate:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-77-504-8-Inch-Mortise-Compression/dp/B00AHVTCW4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1370406553&sr=1-1&keywords=77-504

Priceyyyy.

Your tooling is the problem here. Compression bits are for cuts that go all the way through the material. They have an upshear flute at the bottom, and the top of it is a downshear flute. In this case, you're not going deep enough to get past the upshear part of the flute and you're getting tear-out.

What you really want to use here is a downshear bit. Something like this.

I would go with a 1/4" cutting diameter, 1/2" shank. For example, the Whiteside RU4700.

My CNC Router Parts Pro series does aluminium just fine. You will want to use a single flute bit. Below is the information I use. Also invest in a mist coolant / air blast setup. Contrary to intuition, you will want to take as much DoC as you can manage (within reason). At least .5 to .75 tool diameter. Lastly, don't slot. Use slot clearing / trochoidal toolpaths (adaptive toolpaths in F360). I shoot for around .0024 feed / tooth. Usually end up in the 80 ish ipm range.


Amana Tool 51402 SC Spiral 'O' Single Flute, Aluminum Cutting 1/4 D x 5/8 CH x 1/4 SHK x 2 Inch Long Up-Cut Router Bit withMirror Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVLCAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Nl6PBbBDNAE20

Metal Cutting Engraving Machine Mist... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JU683KS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I think so too. I got a router bit kit and they seem to be cheaply made. I bought spiral cut up bit from Amazon. Hopefully that'll fix the problem. how should I dial my speed for this bit?

I use the crap out of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this one for V-carving:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALY4E2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For engraving

https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542727514&sr=1-8&keywords=cnc+engraving+bit

Also, get a 1/8 and 1/4 compression bit

FRC? Cool. I’m an alum. Here was my recipe on our shopbot: Onsrud 1/4” (or 1/8” depending on the job) single-flute carbide cutter (specifically this one), as many RPMs as you can get, and about 0.002”-0.003” chipload. For us this usually worked out to about 40ish IPM. We could swing about a 0.060” DOC and honestly I bet we could have done more especially on the adaptive cuts. I never really pushed it much. Fiddle with the depth until your machine starts to choke, then back it off a bit. Use a little lubricant, I find a shot of WD-40 works well for aluminum, a mist coolant system would also do well.

The key is keeping that chipload reasonable. Sounds like you might be burnishing a bit, which work-hardens the material in front of the cut. That’ll kill your cutter pretty fast. The other key is to stop using crappy end mills. I know the cheap Chinese ones are tempting. Knock it off. They’re garbage. Pay the $30 for a decent one and be done with it.