Reddit mentions: The best straight router bits

> How much play in your motor shaft is there? How much runout is there on the bit at the collet? How much at the end of the bit? How much at the front and back of the collet pocket?

Enough that I can move it about .5(?) mm side to side with my finger. When I try to make a dot on my copper clad board I get a circle that's roughly the same diameter. What's a collet pocket?

> Ideally there should be zero play in your shaft, but on cheaper stuff that isn't always the case. (Like, literally zero: bearings should have some preload from installation.)

Yeah, this is a super cheap motor. I'm using one of these.

> Other possibilities: Are you using the right size and type of collet, properly installed? Is everything clean and free of dirt, dust, debris, etc.?

Yeah, I'm sure I'm using the proper collet, but I've ordered another set just to be sure. This is the collet set I have, and and these are the bits I'm using. I know these have been successfully used by others. I chose my parts off this home brew machine, but actually designed my own setup.

Sure!

A planer is essentially just a really big two flute router bit with removable blades that can also be adjusted.

Get yourself a two flute straight edge plunger bit, (something like this), and put it in your router. Make sure your bed is setup properly to mimick a jointer setup, then hold the board flat to the table, and push into the router wall a little bit, and you'll get a clean edge suitable for jointing.

It's effectively a planer on its side. I really like it because I prefer the motion of pushing compared to a planer but that's just me.

Sadly, using this method, you're bits will wear uneven over time and you'll start to notice that your joints aren't perfectly 90, so you'll have to replace the bit. But in all honesty, planer blades wear too (people just don't notice as easily since you can't pick up the blade and compare it to a straight edge compared to a bit) and they're probably the same cost as a new bit to get sharpened professionally or replace.

There are router jigs that are really cool you should google. I don't use them but i really want to try them out. They help remove a lot of the pressures and help give you a straight edge to work with.

Youtube is your friend!

I would agree with the previous replies - good value router bits will be inherently good quality. Poor router bits will be a nightmare to work with and not last nearly as long as the higher quality ones.

My personal favorite is Whiteside and if you're looking for a set you might start with this. I've also heard good things about Freud and CMT. If you're on a tight budget you may consider something like Woodriver or Grizzly.

As others have said, you probably want to buy bits as you need them instead of a full set you may or may not use. I'm not sure what specific bits you're looking for in terms of radius etc - you'll have to see if it's more cost effective to purchase individually or as a starter set.

One final comment - I would strongly recommend getting 1/2" shank bits instead of 1/4" shank bits if possible. They'll last longer and provide smoother cuts through improved heat capacity and reduced vibration.

Edit: If you're willing to do some reading, check out this article. It's a torture test of the most popular brands and discusses their performance in several different woods and cutting scenarios.

Good idea for the spacer. I actually had to make my router sled two sided. One side had rails that were one layer thick, the other had two for the thicker stock. So if the boards were too thick for the side with one layer, i could take it down to that size first.


The sides were supposed to be about .065 to about .080 inches thick i was closer to about .055 to .060 in thick. Thin enough to bow out a bit eventually, even though bending adds structure. This was the first thing I did so I didnt quite have the technique down. I found the key was to take small even measurements, as well as to measure often and since i hot glued the pieces down, i had to remember to take into account the dofference that makes, as well as having to sand/scrape away the striations left by the router. I also found that running the router in line with the plunge handles and in very shallow passes helped minimize this.

The back of mine is about 3mm, and I was shooting for about 2.5 final. The front should have been about 2mm, and that ended up about 2.5 the last I measured, but while finishing i actually stripped all the finish off and scraping a bunch to remove gouge marks so I think i emded up closer to my goal anyway.

Forgive the mixture of units, but my calipers went between the two easily and different sources said different things.


This is the bit I used. I boughr it for this project and I have been more that happy with it. If you do make the uke, be sure to practice on scraps for everything you havent tried before. Using the router, you will want to get a card scrapper, it takes care of the srriations in no time.

I've been trying to find a good way to do it myself, preferably without it looking like crap.

Would look the best doing it with a vertical mill, but not just everyone has access to one, if you could find a small end mill bit, you could likely do it with a Dremel type tool, as long as you have a collet the right size, the slot (on mine) is about 1/16" I drilled all the holes out to that.

If you have a steady hand I would give that a shot.

First hit on google http://www.amazon.com/E700-1-Flute-Single-End-Carbide/dp/B000I6I5N0

I'm sure you could find one for less, or find one at Lowes/Home Depot, with it being so small, as with small drill bits, it will likely break easily.

the 8825 really shine on big motors at 2A. If you are aiming for 1.5A the 8825 is not really going to be ultra efficient. I agree that 1.5A is a good power level for a Hypercube. You should use .9 degree motors as they are really better suited for that AMP range. They will cost slightly more, but really negligible (maybe 1-2$ extra per stepper). Aim for something like these https://www.amazon.com/NEMA17-Degree-Hybrid-Stepper-Router/dp/B077372DHP/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518064001&sr=8-5&keywords=.9+degree+stepper+motor Obviously you can find them cheaper. You want your steppers rated slightly higher then you intend to run them for. Dont overthink it. 2A steppers will work well too. When in doubt its always OK to get a bigger motor then what you need.

to expand on this.

you'll want to buy a cheap powered router, a straight bit, a couple of clamps and HEARING and EYE PROTECTION.
i can't stress those last two enough.

once you've done that,

1. you'll want to install a wide-ish straight bit into your router.
   
   
2. mark off the area you want to route (make the marks on the waste side, where you're cutting away, or the other side, but be consistent).
   
3. set the router so the bit won't cut, but you can see it in the flat shoe on the bottom. you want to line the edge of the bit to your line, then mark where the edge of the router is.
   
4. you want to clamp your metal brackets to that line as a straight edge and guide.
   
5. don your eye and ear protection. it's going to get loud.
   
6. take a ruler or use the built in guides to set the bit to the depth you want (1/8")
   
7. double check your clamps are tight and the edge guide is straight. measure both sides of it, don't eyeball.
   
8. place the router on the work with the bit hanging off the edge. then turn it on while steadying it with your hands.
   
9. cut along the guide and any remaining bits from the edge until you have a nice level area for your bracket.
   
   i recommend practicing on a bit of extra wood. get the idea down and then do it on your final piece.

1/2" is definitely better than 1/4".

As far as router bit sets - I'm generally not a fan of the big sets. You'll get way more than you need, and the bits aren't very high quality.

Do yourself a favor and invest in high quality bits for the basic profiles. Whiteside's 401 set is a great place to start: https://smile.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-401-2-Inch/dp/B000AM31QI/

I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.

Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.

Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2

I'd start with one of these, one of these, and add on this one.

That should have you pretty well covered for about $40.

I also heard good things about Infinity router bits, but i haven't been able to bring myself to spend the money on them. They have a slight downcut angle to the cutting edge instead of being totally straight, so they cut cleaner and easier from having a shearing effect going on instead of just brute cutting force.

Assuming you don't have access to a milling machine, which is truly the right tool for this job, I would think a router table with a long enough straight edging bit is the ticket. Something like this.

I would recommend making a jig to allow you to control the workpiece while you move it along the router bit.

I don't think they're stupid or cheap. They're buying from international suppliers. That 3/4" plywood is actually 18mm. In many cases they're labeling it as "23/32 inch".

A router bit like this will probably make OP's life easier.

Edit: but I actually came here to plug WW's exact width dado jig, which is simple and brilliant. But you already covered that.

I used a 1 3/4" Freud straight cut bit. Something like a Whiteside WS1101 would provide 2” of cutting and be slightly more time efficient I suppose. On this slab the result was pretty good, although given the width of the sled and me leaning over it with too much weight at times, some routes were slightly different. Not much though, but I did give it a 60/100/150 grit belt sand before random orbiting. I used the same process on the maple bench you see in some of the photos. With a smaller sled and not having to lean over the work on the garage floor, the maple top came out damn near perfect and required only finish sanding (there were visible lines on the maple but you couldn't really feel them brushing around with your hand).

3" long straight cutting router bit (like this one on Amazon). Make a good jig for the router to follow, and make multiple passes so you're not trying to chew through too much wood at one time. 3" bit will get you half way through, then flip lumber and jig over to go rest of way through. A sander will take care of any ridge if you were slightly off with the jig. The jig will also assure all three pieces look identical.

Needing quick advice on carbide bits, buying today

Which one(s) would you buy and a very brief explanation to why?


This is what I'm looking at:

Amazon:

Hiltex 10100 Tungsten Carbide Router Bits

CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET - 35 piece 1/4 shank NEW BITS by EDMBG

Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)

Sears:

Craftsman 30 pc. Router Bit Set

Harbor Freight:

Carbide Tip Router Bit Set 12 Pc

Carbide Tip Woodworking Router Bit Set Pc

Note: I'm intentionally NOT wanting a $120+ starter kit, that's by design. I'm also having to budget for carving tips which are gonna cost about $25 each, if you have a favorite brand you use, let me know - I'm willing to go ahead and splurge a bit more on these bits as I tend on using them far more.

I have bought a set of router bits on Amazon,

https://www.amazon.com/Proburs-24pcs-Professional-Multi-Purpose-Wood-Working-Assorted/dp/B07588R2XX/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517558529&sr=8-3&keywords=proburs

This quality is awesome, and the price is fair enough...Maybe you can have a try.

I like your method for trimming the veneer from the speaker holes, maybe kind of overkill though.

In the past, I've used this bit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G69M

It only needs 1/8" clearance. https://i.imgur.com/BqDFW4i.jpg

As long as you let the router do the work and don't force it against the wood, it works like a charm.

Buy a cheap multi-bit set, like this one to get you started. As you work on projects over time, you'll discover which bits you use and which you don't. As you break/dull bits from use, you'll know which are the important bits and can replace them with better quality individual bits. Also, you'll discover that bits come in 1/4 and 1/2 shanks, so you'll need/want to purchase (if you don't already have one) a collet for the correct size bits.

Router sled.

Mine is very similar to this one, though you should probably start smaller to fit the sizes you would commonly work on.

You'll need a full size router and a wide flat bottom bit (I have this one). Wider bits for larger pieces to save time.

I used this one. I think they work pretty well, haven't broken one yet.

For most woods, you will want to use a 2 flute straight bit. You won't have enough sfm to use a spiral fluted endmill. I like this one.

Amana Tool 45210 Straight Plunge 1/4-Inch Diameter by 1-Inch Cutting Height by 1/4-Inch Shank Carbide Tipped Router Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJPR46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ciyOBb0K6DWDQ

Yeah this is what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-84603M-Carbide-Plywood-Mortising/dp/B000IZC3C0

Or something like this which is more versatile.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-perfect-fit-dado-jig-with-50-in-all-in-one-low-profile-contractor-clamp

I got this cheap set first (on sale for $30 now).
I'll purchase the more expensive Whiteside ones once I'm comfortable with routing.

They look just like mine that are SKIL brand that I bought on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-91015-15-Piece-Router-Bit/dp/B000HLMQNQ

I bought these ones, hopefully they are good? This is my first router.

Yeah, I second this advice. I used this bit with good results the last time I used a router sled. With a 1-3/4" cut, it's about 7-8 passes per foot depending on how much overlap each pass.

knife and then sanding could work, or something like this if your recess is 1/8" deep or more.

Which design is that looks like RS drivers?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztwGybJKHHQHK


My bits are part of this series:

http://www.infinitytools.com/routing/router-bits/carbide/groove-making-router-bits/dado-planer-router-bits

This low cost bit worked surprisingly well for me:


Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_iNwGybJCQKMXB

Not too sure why you've ruled out a router. Here's a quick example of a straight bit that will go to 2.5" deep. While the flutes may not be 2.5" long, as long as the total bit length is around 3" or more it should be able to reach the full depth with 1/2 an inch being held in the collet. It is still a good idea to hog out the waste with a drill, and take light cuts with the router. The bit that I linked to has an overall length of 4 1/8", which would provide a comfortable amount of shank in the collet.

Just got stuck in the workpiece—I cut waaay too deep. This is the set, if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KSOOLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UMYhzbHH2WF4G

There seems to be a bigger set on Amazon for $30 now, though.

This is the one I use https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Double-Flute-Straight-12-194/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542225656&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+straight+router+bit+1+3%2F4

Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Carbide-DC1261-2-Inch-Cleaning/dp/B005W18EIW

You can use a larger bit and just take off less with each pass. Personallyy with flattening a workbench I'd rather be on the side of larger bit, less depth at one time. Here's a decent 1 3/4" flat bottom
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CZ

hmmm, can't find any in a quick and dirty search, but using a 1/16th end mill in a press should suffice re: http://www.amazon.com/E700-1-Flute-Single-End-Carbide/dp/B000I6I5N0

followed by a 1/8th extractor; http://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Screw-Extractor-Spiral-Flute-2RUL8

keeping in mind the extractor goes in counter clockwise, and you'll need a tap handle or similar to twist it.

let me know if i need to do some more googling when i get off work.

look around if you want, using the above as a reference, read reviews, don't automagically get the cheapest thing out there, or the 2nd.

http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Stalwart-Multi-Purpose-24-Piece-Router/dp/B000X47YDE

Most recommended reviews say they are cheap and possibly dangerous.

I got the 15 piece Hitex set for less than $20. They seem to be working fairly well - haven't sent more than 100 feet of wood through any of them yet though.

I assume I'll mess them up sooner or later as I'm starting out too, but it's a pretty cheap set, so no real loss. I literally had bits come loose and fly off the router before I realized that I needed to really tighten up the collet too ...


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSOOLI/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=DXPDQ1W2HBGTWW78PK73&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7771a85c-b1fb-5864-a037-c5d8ffd938b4&pf_rd_i=3116511

I used a 1 3/4 flat bit and took off between 1/8 and 1/4 per pass, sometimes more in particularly high spots. The slab started out very wavy!

Next time I would use longer rails, both for the sled to ride on and for the sled itself, I kept having to move the slab and rails around to get at different areas and it was a pain.