Reddit mentions: The best threading taps

First, most guns operate around 90 psi. 10-20 psi is ridiculously small.

There is a trade off that you have to confront.

CO2 holds WAAAAY more energy than compressed air ever will. If size is your main concern, CO2 would be the way to go. The reason, as you know, is because CO2 goes through a phase change and there's a lot of energy in that step.

Yes, there are 2 or 3 oz co2 bottles. You're going to want to ask on mcarterbrown.com where ot get them. They are specialty made in limited runs for people who play pump paintball. I think they go for 40 bux. The same customers also buy very small compressed air tanks.

Now then, CO2 has a lot more energy stored, but god damn is it dirty. First, you need to make sure it expands. That expansion uses up a lot of heat. If you are continuously running the bottle, it is entirely possible that everything will freeze up. BUT, if it's only 10-20 psi, that may just be a small enough flow to where ambient temperature will work. However, with a constant flow I would bet that your device would freeze up on CO2 Either way, you will probably want to buy an old school "expansion chamber."

https://www.amazon.com/Kingman-Paintball-Expansion-Bottomline-conversion/dp/B00APL4KPK/ref=zg_bs_3488731_1

That's a really crappy one. Try to buy a used one (pbnation.com or mcarterbrown.com) that has multiple chambers and FINS. The one with the fins is really great. (20 bux).

Compressed air in a small tank may struggle to provide you with enough energy to run for 1 hour. A larger tank, like a 45 cubic inch/4500 psi (called a 45/45) would definitely last you.

Either way, you will need at least two regulators. All tanks, whether CO2 or HPA, expel air out of them at 800 psi (standard) or 400 psi (low pressure HPA tanks only). So you will need to regulate the pressure down from 800 down to 100 using a high pressure regulator. If you are using CO2, (Or even if not) one of the best most consistent regulators is a Palmer's male stabilizer.

https://palmers-pursuit-shop.myshopify.com/collections/stabilizers

90 dollars.

You want to put this 100 psi air into some sort of dump chamber, roughly the size of your thumb or larger. I highly recommend using macroline and macroline fittings in order to make these connections.

http://www.oringmonkey.com/macroline-fittings-c-210.html

The straight one here is 8 dollars. It's a premium, higher costed macroline fitting. Most go for 4-5. But o ring monkey is good people and I always order from there. Pick up some 010 o rings to fix any leaks you may get in your macroline fitting later (which will definitely occur with CO2). The macroline connectors fit into 1/8 NPT threads, which is easy enough to drill and tap.

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-20371-Carbon-Steel/dp/B000K1LZ76

Then feed that into a low pressure regulator. Now these are getting rarer as most guns have ditched them. Anyways, once again Palmers is going to be your best bet for CO2, and they're one of the best regs there is, hands down. I cannot say for certain that such a regulator will get down to 10 psi and work properly. This is outside the range of almost every paintball gun there is. You definitely are going to have to "Ask the Experts" over at mcarterbrown.com

Most Low Pressure Regulators (LPR) output the air through microline which is different from macroline. You want SOFT microline for the fittings. The only source of soft microline that I have ever been able to locate is from a guy on mcarterbrown.com . His handle is "maggot" and you are looking for his "autococker hose kit." 12 bux

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/dealers-forum/255801-slps-kit-cocker-parts-macroline-halfblock-delrin-grips-benchmark-sliders.html#post2949265

As far as refilling, CO2 is very easy to refill from a larger bottle wit a CO2 fill station

https://www.amazon.com/Ninja-Paintball-Mini-Fill-Station/dp/B0023U7RH4

As far as refilling HPA, it is really easy to do so from a scuba fill station.

https://www.amazon.com/Ninja-Paintball-SCUBA-Fill-Station/dp/B001T6I1K0

Of course, be warned. DO NOT EVER PUT OIL INTO A HPA TANK AS IT CAN AND WILL EXPLODE That's really the only thing you'd have to worry about with filling.

Ooznest is great, they actually used to sell an i3 kit that was quite good, and my goto for Great Britain recommendations insofar as cheap-ish kits were concerned. Last I checked they're a genuine reseller, so what you got should be the correct component. Anyway, if you want to upload a picture, the easiest way is to upload it to an external image host, like imgur, for instance, then link it in your comment.

So, by broken in half, do you mean it looks like this? If so, it is possible to overtorque the two halves against each other inside an M6 nut. It'll be pretty wobbly, and it definitely won't last for more than a couple of prints, but it should work enough to get it through a single print. Actually, since you ordered from Ooznest, you're probably in the UK, or nearby in Europe, right? That means hardware stores should just carry most kinds of metric fasteners, and you can get ahold of an M6 coupler nut, which would definitely join the two halves together long enough for you to get a print off of it. In addition, you could get an M7 tap of some sort, and drill out the Anet's original heatsink. The E3Dv6's heatbreak is an M7 on the top, M6 on the bottom, so that could work. You'd have issues with heat creep long-term, since the E3D uses a metal interior instead of PTFE like the Anet does, but you'd probably be able to get the mounting adapter for an E3D off of it before it gunked up too much.

I dunno. Aero doesn't really offer anything that you can't DIY pretty easily other than finish and I do like to rattlecan guns. As soon as we replace the oven in the kitchen, that might be migrating out to the garage to see if I want to get into Cerakote.

> The intergrated trigger guard is really nice

I like the ability to pick and choose, but I usually default to MagPul plastics.

> threaded bolt catch is a god send of making the hardest part of the lower build the easiest

Knipex flat jaw pliers for all the roll pins makes it super simple.

> I like the set screw in the back

4-40 tap and tap wrench along with a phat sack of these. If you chop a couple coils off the safety detent you can tap and thread that for the same screws as well.

I think you'd be happier with a bowl gouge. $100 gets you a top of the line one, but you can get a good one for $60:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/129/948/Artisan-Superflute-Bowl-Gouge

and a decent one for $30:

https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Woodturning-Inches/dp/B008AVM77A

Using a scraper is fine, but a bowl gouge is faster and leaves a better surface. If I were using a scraper to hollow though, I'd want something a lot beefier than the little ones that come in that HF set.

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The Light Units


The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

1. Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
   
2. Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
   
3. Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
   my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
   
4. screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
   
5. measure your needed cable lengths.
   
6. cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
   
7. Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
   
8. Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
   
9. for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
   
10. Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
    
11. In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
    
12. Plug in wall and grow weed.
    
    You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
    
    have fun!

Maybe find a garage, automobile shop or supply that works on English or American cars.

Does not Amazon sell these in Europe?

1/4 20 is common for camera / tripod screw.

edit

Looks like Amazon Ship to Norway

3/8 tap tap

There are others - also need correct drill. That would be 5/16.

If you need 1/4" you can search - chart here

If you need more help - yell :)

Also a Manfrotto user in the US.

Bother/Sister, do yourself a favor and have your boss get one of these if they aren’t willing to spend on anything higher grade. By the time that you consider the cost of a tap, the cost of a damaged/ruined part, and lost labor tiles, it pays for itself in just a couple oopsies. HHIP 3900-0250 Precision Hand Tapper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVYQR9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bFNOBbCEN3AJ6

There are better and more expensive solutions out there, but if nothing else, this will do a good job as a reasonable cost.

It was this set from Amazon.ca. Seems really cheap, and I've only used it on plastic threaded parts on my builds. I might still trust it on thinner aluminum and brass, but definitely not steel, and definitely not on something important like my car.

Assuming there's enough material on the underside of your bed, drilling and tapping the bed's holes out to M10 would be the easiest.

To do that you need a 9.1mm drill bit (or something close), and an M10 tap drill (https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-8338-10mm-1-0-Metric/dp/B0002JT0XW). If the mounting part is metal, this might not be that easy. If it's wood, it becomes far easier.

You'll need to know whether the thread on the legs is M10x1 (fine thread) or M10x1.25 (course thread). The second number indicates the space between each thread height. Metal on your bed and it's probably M10x1. Wood and it's probably M10X1.25. The tap is different depending on what the thread pitch is.

I have done the same - a concave piece friction fit between the live center and the ball.

Or, if you have a live center like the Oneway or Nova, and a 3/4” - 10 tap, you can make whatever shaped live center you wish. Just put the live center in the headstock with a wire or a cotter key, or a nail holding it, screw on a tapped piece of hardwood, and turn a cup, or cone, or whatever you need. Or just set a 3/4” - 10 nut in a wooden blank with epoxy and avoid the the tap.

(For the live center see https://oneway.ca/products-category/holding/Spurs,%20Drivers,%20Centers/Live%20Center)
(For the tap see https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-20084-4-Inch-Machine/dp/B000FMO8CO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543209754&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2F4+-+10+tap)

Here’s a link.
uxcell 23mm Dia Wheel Furniture Stainless Steel Sliding Door Roller 4 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZDJJ18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xulDAb4V5TFHW

It worked out well and they’re fairly adjustable but in hindsight I wish I would’ve gone with something of higher quality.

At the top of this thread someone said these measurements and this is what I found 7mm X .5 Metric HSS Right Hand Thread Tap M7 X 0.5mm Pitch
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C88E0IA/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

wut

I mean sure, that's no-name Amazon but for occasional use (eg you don't use the thing but once in a blue moon) it's probably ok.

If not, you've got this one from Fastnel; Grainger has a decent selection for similar prices.

Even McMaster has them starting at around $100 ($60 if you only need to 'repair' a thread).

most home improvement stores do not carry any tools you'd use to work on firearms short of things like the drills themselves or sanders or whatever.

things like taps, dies, screwdrivers, these all need to be gotten elsewhere unless you can find specific stuff. hollow ground screwdrivers for instance. this tap. (alt link at midway) just about any tap handle will work for the most part, so long as it goes down to a small size to grab the tap itself. tapping lube can be found at most hardware stores. #31 drill bits (@midway) are also usually not found in regular stores. if you have a local machine supply shop they might have such, and even the tap and what not, but they're probably not going to be cheap.

This one is from Titan. It works great now, not sure how long it will stay sharp

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51950-Deburring-External/dp/B07V9PGRSB

All of those bolts are M14x1.5. None of them would cause damage to your oil pan. As long as the threads aren't too badly damaged, you can repair them using a M14x1.5 tap or a thread chaser. You can probably find one at a local autoparts store or online: http://www.amazon.com/Hanson-1750-HANSON-Plug-Tap/dp/B000UE8Z9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452650684&sr=8-1&keywords=m14x1.5+tap.
If the tap or chaser works, you won't need a heli-coil. Just make sure you put it in perfectly straight, or else you're going to make things worse.

Drill out original rivets, which I assume you did in order to take it apart. Drill pilot holes for tap, be careful not to go too far. Use tap tool to cut threads, make sure to use lube (wd40 works). If you’re unfamiliar with tapping maybe look up a vid on you tube.

Button head screws -
Tap and drill bit

I just looked and couldn't find it again. It's buried in a comments thread somewhere and I didn't think to save it. I do remember that the key to the build is removing as much of your battery sled as possible, milling out the bottom right corner of the box, and putting the 510 connector on the left. Width wise it's tight but very possible. By tapping I mean using a tool to add threads to the hole for the 510. I don't do this to my boxes but if I remember correctly the FDV is a 10x1.00 thread, which could be attained with this.

http://www.amazon.com/10X1-00-FLUTE-SPEED-STEEL-METRIC/dp/B002G9IV0O

Definitely check me on this, it's off the top of my head not a data sheet.

It's been said that if you order parts from McMaster-Carr, they fly out your computer's CD drive.

I'd also look at your local Fastenal branch. And bring sponsorship material--some branches have given FIRST teams at least a price break if not freebies.

Or, if nothing else, this might be a good time to learn tapping your own parts to accept the 6-32 screws. (It's not like you'll never need a 6-32 thread in some obscure place ever again after this!)

M5-0.8 hand tap, and corresponding set screw

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-1607-M5-0-80-10-Pack/dp/B00HYKCJFS/ref=sr_1_3?qid=1568507934&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11434060011&s=industrial&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/0-8-Metric-Taper-Plug-Taps/dp/B00870161M

I think he's referring more to something like this for $10: https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3900-0215-Spring-Loaded-Tap-Guide/dp/B00R13VQCA

> M7x0.5 tap or thread follower

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Right-Thread-0-5mm-Pitch/dp/B00C88E0IA

Amazon has them

I used these two when I installed a FDV 510 for a DNA build.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JT0XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1