Reddit mentions: The best under-counter fixture mounting products

You can get aluminum channels with frosted covers to mount your LED strips in.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LL2SLME/ref=psdc_14325671_t2_B01MYF2P2I

___

Here is an alternate idea I have been kicking around for a while for creating a cheap and easy LED strip light diffuser, but I have never tried it: The materials are parchment paper and 2" wide clear packing tape. You can probably find both of these at your local grocery store. You will also need a hand saw and a miter box.

Remove the parchment paper roll from its cardboard package and make a pencil mark one inch from the end of the roll. Holding the roll gently but firmly against one side of the miter box, cut off the end of the roll at the mark using a hand saw (avoid power tools for this operation). Unroll the resulting one inch wide roll of parchment paper and secure in place over the LED strip with a length of 2" wide clear packing tape.

Hey everyone, I didn't have the forethought to take photos as I went along, but here's how I did it. Fair warning; this project requires an intermediate amount of soldering experience. If you have surface mount soldering experience, you'll be golden. If you don't, make sure you can handle sacrificing a few light strip segments for this project :)

1. De-solder the sections of an existing Hue Light Strip. The first half of this video shows how to separate the sections. In the video, he uses a soldering iron. I used a hot air gun to desolder mine; I found the hot air gun approach easier.
   
2. Keep careful track of the start and end sections of each strip; you cannot reverse them! Each segment has "PHILIPS" printed on it in blue letters. To help me keep track, I always kept the PHILIPS logo facing upright. At the end of the original light strip, Philips added a female 6-pin connector, so I used female connectors for the end of my segments and male connectors at the beginning. Philips used surface mount contacts with 2mm spacing, which is a lesser-used spacing standard. I bought these for the male end of each segment, and these for the female end.
   
3. Break the headers into 6-pin sections. The male ones are easy to break apart with a vice and a pair of pliers. The female headers were a bit more difficult; I held them in a vice and hacksawed them into sections. Then I used a dremel to clean up the messy cut. Someone mentioned using this cut-end to 6-pin product to save on soldering, but I chose to solder each end of the strip. Since the connections will be under some tension when they're bent at 90 degrees, I wanted to make sure they were 100% solid.
   
4. Solder the 6-pin connectors to each end of your cut strips. If the female headers were too difficult to break apart or solder, you can technically use male ends on both sides of the strip. Litecessory's cables can be converted to either female-female or male-female.
   
5. Spread hot glue over the solder joints to prevent them from making incidental contact with other conductors and to give the connectors more strength.
   
6. Use pre-made 2mm 6-pin cables (2 inch, 3 feet) to make your strip as long or as short as you need! When connecting segments, make sure to connect them in the same polarity, such that pins 1-6 on one segment are connected to pins 1-6 on the next segment. If you flip the cable, connecting 1-6 -> 6-1, at best your segment won't light up; at worst it'll fry it for good.

Sorry for the late response!

I bought 40 meters worth of ws2812B LED strips (a type of LED strip that can be programmed). You can get these for pretty cheap of Amazon. Then, I used the adhesive on the back of the LEDs to stick them in these special LED mounting racks that I could mount on to some metal storage shelves.

To interface with the LEDs, I'm using a Pixlite Controller like this one. The cool thing about these controllers is that they can output DMX (DMX is the protocol used to control those big fancy lights you see at concerts) in addition to driving LEDs. Then the programming and sequencing is done in Lightjams. In addition to being the best low budget software for LED pixel programing, Lightjams can also be used to program any DMX fixture.

So I got 5 the cheap DMX moving head lights and controlled them with Lightjams too.

I knew if I wanted to pull of this song, I was going to need lasers, but DMX lasers are stupid expensive. Soooo I had to get a little unconventional. I ordered some sketch cheap Chinese lasers that I wired to a DMX relay. I mounted the lasers to the shelves using camera clamps and controlled them in Lightjams too.

Figuring out how to do all this and building it took me about 6 months. Then, programming took another few months. I am actually working on programing an entire set of songs from the Worlds tour. I am nearly done, and it's about an hour long! I'll be sure to post it here when it's done!

I appreciate the interest, let me know if you want any additional info!

I had a shelving unit that had built in fluorescent tubes. Now, granted it is an accent shelf, and each shelf was approximately 20" x 18". The fluorescent tubes were on the 20" sides, and there was no lighting on the 18" sides. I used Hue Gen 2 light strips all the way around on all three shelves, and the light (without all the CRI calculations) passed the "wife test". No discernible difference at full power detected. (SCORE!).

I also didn't care for the dots of each LED, so I put the Hue lightstrips into these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are super easy to cut with a handsaw, easy to install, and nicely diffuse the LED light and protect the strips.

Where I needed a non-lit extension (such as between each shelf), I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally whenever there was a junction, I used white electrical tape to make sure the two strips stayed affixed. Just a small bit to wrap around the joint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FP8HSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In my kitchen I have 4 separate cabinet groupings, in which I installed above and below cabinet lighting. I used bichromatic (WW/CW) strip lighting from Amazon, and interfaced it with my UPB and home automation systems. I had the electrician run 110 V AC from the UPB wall switches to the top of each stack of cabinets, then wired in the DC drivers. After the DC drivers I wired in a strip light controller. Before I purchased the controller, I ensured that it would return the lighting to the same color it was set to when it was turned off, and so it does.

I then ran strip lighting in track along the tops of the cabinets for the above cabinet lighting. For the under cabinet lighting, I ran white coated cable down the inside front corner of the cabinets, and ran the strip lighting in track along the underside of the cabinets.

I was able to program all the controllers for the above cabinet lighting to one remote, and all the controllers for the below cabinet lighting to another remote. The lights change color in synchrony. I rarely change the color of the lights, so the remotes sit in a drawer doing nothing for the most part. The lighting works flawlessly, and provides a lot of light without much heat. Because the remotes also function as dimmers, I didn't install dimmer UPB switches. Since I had to use different wattage drivers, I'm not sure if the dimmer switches would have dimmed the strips uniformly, while the remotes certainly do. Like the color, I don't change the intensity often anyway.

I have had no quality issues. I was careful to use aluminum track, and the drivers are all meanwell. Overall, I have a very nice seamless light from minimally visible hardware unless you're looking for it.

Woah awesome! I'd throw some diffusers on the LEDs though, you can buy channel like this with diffuser strips in it so you don't see each individual light. Really great look by the way. Who did the design?

Looks amazing, did you by chance use these for installation?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAWHKP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J.nDybN9MZKE5

My under cabinets aren't flat and I have a corner I would like to have the Hue strips follow. Since the hue strips will only bend one way did you have that challenge and how did you solve it. Thanks!

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

Looks like you already got a solution, but I bought this on a lightning deal on amazon during Prime Day and love it. Soft light, transition is quick but not instant, so no "flash" or anything. magnetic mount to a fixed (adhesive/screw) base. Recharges using a mini-USB.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077G2K26P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If the measurements work for you, there are 3rd party extension cables that would let you span the space occupied by the extractor without having cut/splice/solder any strips

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Compatible-Philips-LightStrip/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488037366&sr=8-1&keywords=Extension+Cable+for+Philips+Hue+LightStrip+Plus+%283ft%2F1m+-+2+Pack%2C+White%29

Best of luck!

this

I did 2 for my closet as well. liked it so much I got it for my reach under pantry. tap face, screw mount or adhesive (which is basically permanent) and it comes with both. 2xAAs and I just have loads of NiMh. good spread but can be semi directional. on the everything so slightly warmer side. I don't prefer cool lite so these are great.

Of course LED strips or rope will work, but what about colored spotlights instead? Just throw a few around the yard pointed at the house in various Christmas colors and you are done.

If you do install LED strips, I would consider installing them in LED tracks to keep them safer so you dont have as much maintenance (the glue on LED strips sucks donkey balls) and they will look cleaner.

They come in flat

https://www.amazon.com/Starlandled-Aluminum-Installation-Professional-Accessories/dp/B01LL2SLME/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542417534&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+track

and corner that would work really nicely under rain gutters.

https://www.amazon.com/StarlandLed-Aluminum-Installation-Professional-Accessories/dp/B01LL3S006/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542417534&sr=8-4&keywords=LED+track

Yeah, that might be a better solution.

If the TV and display are close enough, you might get away with 3rd party cable extensions (Litcessory is the only well-known compatible brand) and two 1m extension strips. But they are expensive and will look ghastly if you can't hide them. And you won't be able to control them separately.

The only other method I can think of is using velcro to fix them to the displays and constantly transferring them, which sound crazy.

I used these, just last night. Worked great. I recommend these to mount them. http://i.imgur.com/3v4IoBA.jpg

Something like these work great: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Cupboard-Lighting-Rechargeable-Magnetic/dp/B072LX4LL2/

https://smile.amazon.com/OxyLED-Dimmable-Control-Wireless-Under-Cabinet/dp/B0719Q2B9D/

I bought a splitter and converter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Adapter-Compatible-Philips-LightStrip/dp/B01M17KZ04/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1492705809&sr=8-11&keywords=hue+lightstrip

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Extension-Directly-LightStrip-Controller/dp/B01M0VPNNY/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1492705870&sr=8-17&keywords=hue+lightstrip


So I've split the lightstrip straight from the controller. Added a few extensions it works brilliantly.

I've never had LED strips that stick well. If you don't mind a more permanent solution I can recommend these clip things

Edit - obviously these are only really an option if you have a wooden desk to screw them in to

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43349&p=71702

Amazon also has stuff if you look around

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Channel-Profile-Cabinet-Counter/dp/B018W03AWO/

Also this place gives you a good idea of all the things one can buy to mount led strip lights even if its on the expensive side
http://www.environmentallights.com/led-channel.html

I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.

Hope this helps!

LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

A more professional and elegant way would be to use aluminum channels designed to house, mount, and diffuse LED strip lights.

We happen to be one of the few brands offering these aluminum channel systems, including one model designed specifically for Philips Hue Lightstrips (Gen 2).

This one has 66 LEDs. Quite bright, IMHO:

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Wireless-Aluminum-Lighting-Wardrobe/dp/B077G2K26P

I am about to start cabinet lighting project as well.
I ordered these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XN5YDT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFGL1HR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll let you know how it goes. I haven't soldered in years

I soldered mine but had some experience, however afterwards I discovered there are connectors to be found such as

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01M8Q3T0B

I'm sure I saw connector to RJ45 on eBay once so you can connect over distance with standard car cable.

1. I'm not sure of the brand, just a reel I bought off of amazon and cut to length. They are decent enough. I didn't feel like spending $100 on LED strips. I should point out that the controller that comes with these RGB strips is not the best. But I didn't need a controller, just the RGB strips. Link
   
   
2. In some places I'm using 3M adhesive, and other areas that are more prone to stress and tension I used these little clips.
   
   
3. I drilled, very carfully, about 85% of the way through the front panel maybe even 90%. Then I used what is called a bottom tap, the make the treads.
   
   
4. All screws used on this case are 6-32 (except the mobo standoffs). This is the same screw that Phanteks uses on the case itself. Makes it super easy for assembly not having to guess which screw goes where. Pro tip.
   
   
5. The RGB controller I'm using is from a German company, and there for does not adhere to the same output standards. So I had to map the outputs and cross the wire colors so that the controller would output the proper color to its corresponding channel. That way I wouldn't have to do any guess work when I would make a splice or extension in the RGB run. Fun stuff let me tell you. This took me way to long to get right because one of the ouputs on the RGB controller wasn't outputting the same RGB config as the other 3. After I figured that out it was a breeze lol.

You might like a couple of these since they are shorter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/150mm-6-Pin-Strip-Light-Extension/dp/B01MFGL1HR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483844055&sr=8-1&keywords=litcessory

And here are the adapters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Extension-Directly-LightStrip-Controller/dp/B01N3JK24J/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483844055&sr=8-6&keywords=litcessory

These can help you use the rest of the strip, or you can take the rj45 things to use as a splitter

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01FRVS7UQ/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FRVS7UQ&pd_rd_r=F3W3CXJ0TE8J13JFM3ZH&pd_rd_w=ygAAH&pd_rd_wg=dfzRe&psc=1&refRID=F3W3CXJ0TE8J13JFM3ZH

Hue strips are wider than 12mm, you need 15mm channel like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDV1RH9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you! They remote control under cabinet lights. The exact ones I bought actually look sold out, but there are others items in sponsored that look really similar. BWL Puck Lights with Remote Control,Brightness Adjustable LED Under Cabinet Lighting, Multi Color LED Accent Lights (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X42KKZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Nx-DAbKHSTE18

If you want to extend a Hue light strips around something there are extension cables so then you can use only one switch and one controller.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8Q3T0B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I've been curious about that but haven't been brave enough to separate the strip myself.
For the extra connector, try these: https://www.amazon.com/150mm-Extension-Philips-LightStrip-Compatible/dp/B01FRVS7UQ

One plug is capable of powering 10 metres. You can connect them either close to each other by included “connecting thing” :D or by using one of these things. https://www.amazon.de/Verlängerungskabel-Philips-Lightstrip-Plus-Packung/dp/B01MQCE4KG/ref=sr_1_14

Just a note Hue sells also extension kits (1 m) which do not include plugs.

Also another note I have seen several users report that the plug makes a lot of noise when there are extensions plugged into light strip. I have one 1 m extension but the plug makes noise even without it when set to white (cold and white.

Are they some kind of standard aluminum LED channel product? If so, the maker could tell you the brand and dimensions so you coudl buy the matching covers. You might be able to adapt something to a custom channel or unknown maker.

This one has the channels and the covers:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Peak-Products-LED-Strip-Holders-50422/206394137

Here are some cover-only listings, you can find the same items on amazon with the channels and covers together:

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-10-Pack-Plastic-Aluminum-Channel/dp/B0769CY4Z3

I bought these

I used them for anything that was more than a slight bend. They also make kits where you can connect cut ends to cut ends or 6 pin ends. Let me really get the strips the perfect length (just took a bit more effort).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17KZ04

I have not personally tried, but the reviews on this indicate that it will work.

You can do the whole kitchen using one Hue base/power source (you need at least one $90 base in order to control the lights). I used these Litesessory extensions+splitters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3NTCYU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you need to cut a strip, use these split end connectors as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDHP582/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another idea would be to install an led light. there are some designed to work on vibration (and would use batteries. You could also use a switch such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Close-Cabinet-Drawer/dp/B07M5YP9PR

I found https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01FRVS7UQ/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FRVS7UQ&pd_rd_r=H2A41T4TMGXRJVBQRZAT&pd_rd_w=UEu3h&pd_rd_wg=ZMpIh&psc=1&refRID=H2A41T4TMGXRJVBQRZAT

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Wireless-Aluminum-Lighting-Wardrobe/dp/B077G2K26P/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540847370&sr=8-4&keywords=rechargeable+led+strip+lights

https://www.amazon.com/Wardrobe-OxyLED-Under-Cabinet-Lightening-Rechargeable/dp/B06XXM2C6F/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540847370&sr=8-5&keywords=rechargeable+led+strip+lights

/u/Cynical_Chameleon see above

Assuming that you don't mind them being controlled by a single controller (and therefore the same colour/brightness), I'd buy:

A 2m lightstrip plus for the two cabinets on the right - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072R5VQJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1502294468&sr=1-2&keywords=hue+light+strip,

one of these for underneath the microwave oven - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-White/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension

Which then bridges the gap to another 1m LED strip -(https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Personal-Wireless-Lightstrip-Extension/dp/B0148NMVJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-1&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension)

I haven't tried but it seems you'd be able to use this:
Splitter for Philips Hue LightStrip Plus (2 Pack, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3NTCYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YVPPAbB25SJW0

Sorry, I was referring to wire extensions such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFGL1HR/

These are "UL listed," though I'm not certain that means they are for "in-wall" use:

Extension Cable for Philips Hue LightStrip Plus (3ft/1m, 2 Pack, White)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LOMozbC5RA5R3

Can you not use something like those extensions (and have them go around the windows)?
https://smile.amazon.de/Verl%C3%A4ngerungskabel-Philips-Lightstrip-Plus-Packung/dp/B01MFGL1HR/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509526915&sr=8-6&keywords=hue%2Blightstrip%2Berweiterung&th=1

Maybe to name the company directly that specializes in this: http://litcessory.com

Litcessory (it appears that you could potentially use the OTHER end of a cut piece with this as it states "male end is removable to make female"):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Single-Double-Splitter-Philips-LightStrip/dp/B01M17KZ04/ref=sr_1_4?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1480384660&sr=1-4&keywords=Litcessory+%28Philips+Compatible%29

How about if i for example need to put the strip along 90 degree corners?

Wouldn't i need something like this?

However, this doesn't seem to be male to male.
Also, isn't it required to solder using the product you linked?

Do the Philips Hue LED strips have the same connector width and pitch? If so something like this would solve my problem:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M7XDZ5V