Reddit mentions: The best lighting accessories

Hey! So for a while I've been trying out different cheap solutions to make Alexa pretty much work with anything, it may be advanced for you but I'm using a home server software on a raspberry pi called home assistant that lets you control pretty much anything, including cheaper automation devices. More specifically I have a set of 4 "milight" bulbs (search eBay for these ) which don't work natively with Alexa but they work great setup through home assistant. The best part about these bulbs is that they're warm white and color changing for about $10 each.

I also have an LED strip that's connected to a cheap Chinese wifi controller I got on Amazon, and I'm able to control it with some code also running on the raspberry pi. But again that might be far off for you

Which leads me to recommending stuff that works with Alexa out of the box. As far as I know you can only ask Alexa to change the color if you use the Phillips hue or lifx skills. I actually got a gen1 set of Phillips hue bulbs for $80 on eBay, And they work pretty well. If you just want white bulbs, the Phillips hue whites are only $15 and work with a $20 refurb gen 1 hub.

Lastly for the LED strip, there's a wifi controller on amazon that actually has a skill for it. It doesn't change the color or dim the lights but it does turn the strip on and off. This is a link on Amazon for it for $15

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ2SI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8X1zyb8AZ08NS

But I'm pretty sure you can get the same one on eBay for half that (like $7). So then you can just buy a strip on Amazon (usually $15 for the strip and $8 for the power supply)

I could go on but let me know of this is helpful or if you want more details!

Thanks :)

You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.


Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).


Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.

Out of curiosity, what are you using these for? 11.5 watts per meter is a pretty high current requirement and your light output is going to likely be high to match. 11.5 watts per meter would yield ~57.5w for the entire 5m strip and require a minimum of 4.8A for power supply.

For reference, I bought these for our under cabinet lighting which are rated at 2.6 watts per foot or ~42w per 16'. This would require a minimum 3.5A power supply for the entire strand, though individual power supplies may be used. I don't have it all hooked up currently, but I'm using a 12v/1A psu for ~4.5' and it's barely enough.

The relationship between power, current and voltage is easy. Current = Power/Voltage. In the case of the strand you linked, 11.5w/M times 5 meters will equal 57.5 watts for the entire strand, or the power requirements for that particular model. 57.5(power) divided by 12v (voltage) gives you 4.8A of current consumption at full tilt. It's generally good to over supply your power so to run the entire thing on one supply you'd need a 5.5-6A psu. With that kind of current draw, you also have to consider the wiring needed. 18awg wire is generally rated at 7a, but that depends on the length of wire you need (to compensate for voltage drop), how its insulated, and how many wires will be carrying the load.

Generally, any basic 12v power supply will work. I have mine hooked up to a random old 12v wall wart, but you can get led specific drivers like this which have the transformer built in as well as overload protection and sometimes thermal protection. You can also get them up to 150w to run, say, a large kitchen with crown lighting, under cabinet lighting, and kick plate lighting. I've also read about people doing entire decks/patios with the larger PSUs.

As far as connecting them to the power or each other, you will either need to solder lines between them or buy brand specific connectors like these which have power connectors, direct connectors and 6" extension connectors. No soldering required and trust me, they're worth it.

tl;dr - Get a 6a psu or transformer for the entire strand or numerous smaller psu's if you want individual lights on individual circuits (say for switching purposes). FYI, a power supply with more than 6a (or whatever you need for "X" feet of light) won't hurt the lights. The lights only draw what they need. The amperage rating on a psu is simply the capacity, not the amount of current its pushing to the load.

You can get aluminum channels with frosted covers to mount your LED strips in.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LL2SLME/ref=psdc_14325671_t2_B01MYF2P2I

___

Here is an alternate idea I have been kicking around for a while for creating a cheap and easy LED strip light diffuser, but I have never tried it: The materials are parchment paper and 2" wide clear packing tape. You can probably find both of these at your local grocery store. You will also need a hand saw and a miter box.

Remove the parchment paper roll from its cardboard package and make a pencil mark one inch from the end of the roll. Holding the roll gently but firmly against one side of the miter box, cut off the end of the roll at the mark using a hand saw (avoid power tools for this operation). Unroll the resulting one inch wide roll of parchment paper and secure in place over the LED strip with a length of 2" wide clear packing tape.

I am also a neophyte, but have made several diy grow lights recently. Take everything I write with giant grains of salt.

You can buy a CXB3590 (3500 K, 36VDC) for $38 from digikey. An LED holder from newark ( http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 ) runs about $3. You can buy a 900mA driver for it off amazon for $11 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSANIYC ). You can buy a household AC box and a light switch for about $5 from home depot. Scrounge a PC AC cable, some wire for the DC side, some solder. Dig through old electronics for a good heat sink, a fan. Ask some computer folks for thermal paste.

That would bring you close to $50.

From that you can make a 30W led light, I think get over 5000 lumens, and it'd probably be pretty good quality, and not terribly dangerous.

For the AC side, do everything in the electrical box, and make sure it's grounded. Random stuff happens, don't let it happen to you. Electrical shock sucks, but poorly done AC wiring stuff could get hot, start a fire, so putting it in a box is a must. And it's really nice to have a the AC switch. You could simplify, leave out the switch, and use wire nuts, but it's still absolutely necessary to do that in a box and ground that box.

On the DC side, I used these barrel connectors ( https://www.amzn.com//B06Y4YXRMC ) with the wiring to the LED. It's also nice. EDIT: I don't know what these connectors are rated for, but they seemed pretty sturdy.

Sorry, again, I have some electronics background, but I'm new to lighting, so it's foolish of me to even comment.

Hey everyone, I didn't have the forethought to take photos as I went along, but here's how I did it. Fair warning; this project requires an intermediate amount of soldering experience. If you have surface mount soldering experience, you'll be golden. If you don't, make sure you can handle sacrificing a few light strip segments for this project :)

1. De-solder the sections of an existing Hue Light Strip. The first half of this video shows how to separate the sections. In the video, he uses a soldering iron. I used a hot air gun to desolder mine; I found the hot air gun approach easier.
   
2. Keep careful track of the start and end sections of each strip; you cannot reverse them! Each segment has "PHILIPS" printed on it in blue letters. To help me keep track, I always kept the PHILIPS logo facing upright. At the end of the original light strip, Philips added a female 6-pin connector, so I used female connectors for the end of my segments and male connectors at the beginning. Philips used surface mount contacts with 2mm spacing, which is a lesser-used spacing standard. I bought these for the male end of each segment, and these for the female end.
   
3. Break the headers into 6-pin sections. The male ones are easy to break apart with a vice and a pair of pliers. The female headers were a bit more difficult; I held them in a vice and hacksawed them into sections. Then I used a dremel to clean up the messy cut. Someone mentioned using this cut-end to 6-pin product to save on soldering, but I chose to solder each end of the strip. Since the connections will be under some tension when they're bent at 90 degrees, I wanted to make sure they were 100% solid.
   
4. Solder the 6-pin connectors to each end of your cut strips. If the female headers were too difficult to break apart or solder, you can technically use male ends on both sides of the strip. Litecessory's cables can be converted to either female-female or male-female.
   
5. Spread hot glue over the solder joints to prevent them from making incidental contact with other conductors and to give the connectors more strength.
   
6. Use pre-made 2mm 6-pin cables (2 inch, 3 feet) to make your strip as long or as short as you need! When connecting segments, make sure to connect them in the same polarity, such that pins 1-6 on one segment are connected to pins 1-6 on the next segment. If you flip the cable, connecting 1-6 -> 6-1, at best your segment won't light up; at worst it'll fry it for good.

Super cool! Looks great!

My go to gift lately has been the box that you can make on https://lithophanemaker.com and one of these with an led bulb 😃

Sorry for the late response!

I bought 40 meters worth of ws2812B LED strips (a type of LED strip that can be programmed). You can get these for pretty cheap of Amazon. Then, I used the adhesive on the back of the LEDs to stick them in these special LED mounting racks that I could mount on to some metal storage shelves.

To interface with the LEDs, I'm using a Pixlite Controller like this one. The cool thing about these controllers is that they can output DMX (DMX is the protocol used to control those big fancy lights you see at concerts) in addition to driving LEDs. Then the programming and sequencing is done in Lightjams. In addition to being the best low budget software for LED pixel programing, Lightjams can also be used to program any DMX fixture.

So I got 5 the cheap DMX moving head lights and controlled them with Lightjams too.

I knew if I wanted to pull of this song, I was going to need lasers, but DMX lasers are stupid expensive. Soooo I had to get a little unconventional. I ordered some sketch cheap Chinese lasers that I wired to a DMX relay. I mounted the lasers to the shelves using camera clamps and controlled them in Lightjams too.

Figuring out how to do all this and building it took me about 6 months. Then, programming took another few months. I am actually working on programing an entire set of songs from the Worlds tour. I am nearly done, and it's about an hour long! I'll be sure to post it here when it's done!

I appreciate the interest, let me know if you want any additional info!

It's not quite the USB route but Prehaps if you used a benchtop PSU, you could power just about any regulated mod you'd like to (they're expensive)

You could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01GEA8PQA and then connect it to a ge raptor120 https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/naos-raptor-series/25339 and set the voltage to 4V with a pot. and then power any single cell regulated device you wanted, dna40/75. you could also use the raptor to directly power your vape without the board.

I realize that's not the most convenient or direct route, but you're not going to easily get a USB plug to give your 20V and than you still have to make that usable. The tried and true method would be a computer PSU and a dna200/250/c, but you're looking at spending a pretty penny. Same if you were to try to buy a bench top adjustable PSU

​

Another option is since you're not using much power, you could get a dna250/c or a dna75c and plug it into a regular usb port, the 2A (10W) charger should be able to keep up with you vaping on it.

​

I think part of the issue with using USB-C is; the cables arn't rated to handle vaping current, and the chargers are.. 'intelligent' assuming you got the charger to push out it's maximum voltage of 20V, you still have the issue of dropping that voltage to something usable by a vape. most of the common buck converters you'll find that meet the 30W power are either 6/12/24 volts.

Oh man. Great idea! Never think about that before. Thanks man! Will do it later! Thank you soo much! Btw the globe that you mention.

6 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - 1/2 in. Threaded Neck - 3.25 in. Neck Opening-American 3202-50630 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435F6RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ycy3DbJZ32S46

Like this one? And i cut it into half?

Are you talking about the sockets that have little metal "wings" on them to hold the light in place? If so, you can use the cords that are designed for ceramic "village" houses, like Lemax or Department 56. Single-bulb cords are sold at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and other stores like that, as well as at Home Depot. Online, there are quite a few places that sell them, and of course, including Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Hobbies-708N1-Replacement-Christmas/dp/B01LVXU2IV?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

Good luck!

I had a shelving unit that had built in fluorescent tubes. Now, granted it is an accent shelf, and each shelf was approximately 20" x 18". The fluorescent tubes were on the 20" sides, and there was no lighting on the 18" sides. I used Hue Gen 2 light strips all the way around on all three shelves, and the light (without all the CRI calculations) passed the "wife test". No discernible difference at full power detected. (SCORE!).

I also didn't care for the dots of each LED, so I put the Hue lightstrips into these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are super easy to cut with a handsaw, easy to install, and nicely diffuse the LED light and protect the strips.

Where I needed a non-lit extension (such as between each shelf), I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally whenever there was a junction, I used white electrical tape to make sure the two strips stayed affixed. Just a small bit to wrap around the joint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FP8HSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In my kitchen I have 4 separate cabinet groupings, in which I installed above and below cabinet lighting. I used bichromatic (WW/CW) strip lighting from Amazon, and interfaced it with my UPB and home automation systems. I had the electrician run 110 V AC from the UPB wall switches to the top of each stack of cabinets, then wired in the DC drivers. After the DC drivers I wired in a strip light controller. Before I purchased the controller, I ensured that it would return the lighting to the same color it was set to when it was turned off, and so it does.

I then ran strip lighting in track along the tops of the cabinets for the above cabinet lighting. For the under cabinet lighting, I ran white coated cable down the inside front corner of the cabinets, and ran the strip lighting in track along the underside of the cabinets.

I was able to program all the controllers for the above cabinet lighting to one remote, and all the controllers for the below cabinet lighting to another remote. The lights change color in synchrony. I rarely change the color of the lights, so the remotes sit in a drawer doing nothing for the most part. The lighting works flawlessly, and provides a lot of light without much heat. Because the remotes also function as dimmers, I didn't install dimmer UPB switches. Since I had to use different wattage drivers, I'm not sure if the dimmer switches would have dimmed the strips uniformly, while the remotes certainly do. Like the color, I don't change the intensity often anyway.

I have had no quality issues. I was careful to use aluminum track, and the drivers are all meanwell. Overall, I have a very nice seamless light from minimally visible hardware unless you're looking for it.

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

LED strips are wonderful for that. Amazon sells them.
I used LED strips attached to an outdoor light-sensistive timer put on top of the cabinets, so I have light-sensitive LED underlighting.
Quick shot of my lighting

[strip] (http://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-Flexible-Ribbon-Adapter-included/dp/B005GL5R56/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370794301&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip)
power source
I put mine near the front of the cabinet, so they wouldn't ever be visable. If you want a wider range of light, put them closer to the back, and they'll cover the whole cabinet.
Good luck!

Using:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JZ2SI6Q/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LW2NJM/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FKDK2M/

With great success. Have them around the TV in my den. They work great with Home Assistant.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

• 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  
• 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  
• PWM Dimmer
  
  The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

In a word: no.

Epoxy will be difficult to use because in order for it to be strong enough, it will have to be quite thick, which will be expensive and very, very heavy. Keeping bubbles and such out of it will be difficult too.

It will be very brittle, and prone to cracks or breaking on any impact.

Epoxy is great to paint on stuff to strengthen it, but the strength of fiberglass is in the cloth, not the epoxy.

/u/Sporkicide has it right. Look for a plastic/acrylic globe. You can paint the inside so the outside stays shiny, and you can use whatever paint you want to keep it translucent for lights to show through.

Searching for "Clear Acrylic Globe" got me this as the first hit. There are lots of different sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/14-Clear-Acrylic-Globe-3202-14020-003/dp/B00435MT16

It's a garbage power supply. Buy a decent one. Definitely make sure you don't overload it with too long of a strip. A 5 meter 12V strip usually needs 60W. Any fraction smaller than that and you can get a smaller power supply. If these words don't mean anything to you then you need to get learning on youtube.

I've had good luck with the 30W and 60W versions of this:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=led+wholesalers+power+supply&qid=1574379699&sr=8-7

Looks like you already got a solution, but I bought this on a lightning deal on amazon during Prime Day and love it. Soft light, transition is quick but not instant, so no "flash" or anything. magnetic mount to a fixed (adhesive/screw) base. Recharges using a mini-USB.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077G2K26P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

If the measurements work for you, there are 3rd party extension cables that would let you span the space occupied by the extractor without having cut/splice/solder any strips

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Compatible-Philips-LightStrip/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488037366&sr=8-1&keywords=Extension+Cable+for+Philips+Hue+LightStrip+Plus+%283ft%2F1m+-+2+Pack%2C+White%29

Best of luck!

Yes, if you find the transformer, then replacing it with a 12v transformer that has a minimum rating below the draw of your LED lamps will make them work.
They are 3W each, so all six would be 18W, but I'm sure they rounded up. I'd make sure the minimum rating of the new transformer is below 15W just to be sure if you go with a transformer designed for halogen lights, or just go with one designed for led lights that is more than 18W as its max rating.

I have had good luck with acrylic globes like this one from Amazon. they come in different diameters, and take paint well.

I recommend modifying it to use a standard household bulb. You are essentially building a sconce. I would look into something like these plus a 12V PSU like this. You will also need a socket like this.

I'd suggest going Deadmau5 technique, much comfier and lighter too. Buy a Acrylic Globe to start.

I'll try and find a link in a sec, oh and go and ask /r/cosplayers they're super helpful.

link (I like this one more)
and link

The two ways I know of to get a good spherical head are either using 1. a hamster ball or 2. acrylic globes.

I made one with a hamster ball several years ago and the material was relatively easy to work with when using a dremel for cutting the holes. The problem with the hamster ball is that when you cut the neck hole you weaken the entire structure of the thing and allows it to flex alot which makes it feel like a shitty end result. Imagine the black line being an exaggerated cut line for the neck hole and you will see what I mean. Another issue with the hamster ball is that I have only seen 13 in variants and the official dimensions of the mau5 head calls for a 14in sphere.

The best quality diy mau5 heads I have seen usually use the acrylic globes. They wont have the same issue the hamster ball, as it shouldnt be able to flex as much when you remove material. The issue you could have with using acrylic is that acrylic can easily crack if you are not careful depending on the thickness of the material (thicker is less likely to crack). If you go with this route make sure you get have a high speed dremel and some THIN cutting bits. In the end if you pull it off you will probably be most satisfied if you go this route and is about the same price as a hamster ball and should last you alot longer. Just make sure you give yourself at least a couple months so you can work on it here and there because it will take longer than you expect it to your first time crafting one.

You may want to check out /r/mau5head as well.

I tried gutting the old fluorescent fixtures and putting these strips in them with these power supplies. I only did two of the 6 so far because I wanted to see how they held up after a year or so.

So far so-so, its more work than its worth and I would rather buy some than do the rest of them, but I haven't found any that look good and are hard wired for 110V (most have plugs).

I suppose I will finish them eventually as I already have all the parts.

Also, I can control them all with this remote, which is nice.

The Chanzon drivers on amazon are pretty cheap and work amazing for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSANIYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

To power your controller and LED strip, you'll need a power supply/transformer like, LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cu1tyb54516DB

The positive/12v cable connects to the PWR slot on the Fibaro, along with the positive cable from your power supply.

The longer the LED strip, the more wattage you'll need off the transformer.

I've found the above 30w to power a full 20 foot run easily.

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

Of course LED strips or rope will work, but what about colored spotlights instead? Just throw a few around the yard pointed at the house in various Christmas colors and you are done.

If you do install LED strips, I would consider installing them in LED tracks to keep them safer so you dont have as much maintenance (the glue on LED strips sucks donkey balls) and they will look cleaner.

They come in flat

https://www.amazon.com/Starlandled-Aluminum-Installation-Professional-Accessories/dp/B01LL2SLME/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542417534&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+track

and corner that would work really nicely under rain gutters.

https://www.amazon.com/StarlandLed-Aluminum-Installation-Professional-Accessories/dp/B01LL3S006/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542417534&sr=8-4&keywords=LED+track

Hampster ball will work, but it wont be smooth looking. If you can wait on shipping, here's the globe I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/14-Clear-Acrylic-Globe-Neckless/dp/B00435MT16/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319816408&sr=8-1

I originally bought it from 1000bulbs for like 16 bucks but they just recently jacked it up to over $50! a piece, guess they caught on to all the orders lol.

I know I'm not really answering your question here... but we just installed 5 more foot of cabinet space and my wife wanted some under cabinet lighting. I looked on Amazon and most of the stuff was pretty expensive.

I opted instead to do LED strip lighting and ordered 32' of it + transformer + dimmer for the same price as 24" of any of the other solutions. The pluses are:

• LED strips can be cut into 2" sections so you can cut it to length (soldering is required but very minor and simple)
  
• The strips have sticky back so you can stick it right under the counter. I used some glue to help some parts stay but not too necessary.
  
• Very low voltage and power consumption.
  
• Wires are easy to hide
  
  Pics are here: http://imgur.com/a/R6ynJ
  
  Here's what I got:
  
  Transformer/Power Supply
  
  Warm White LED Strips (16ft)
  
  Dimmer w/Wireless Remote
  
  I used 2x 16ft strips and it worked just fine. Came up to a total of $63.25
  

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0747NBTBX

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074HV582Q

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004WLK5

You also need an insulator. The parts I used called for a Solo 2 18mm bong adapter but they are like $30cdn. I used DH gate. Search 18mm bong adapter and find one that looks similar to the solo 2.

Also, that power supply has gone up in price. I don't know if you wanna look for a different cheaper one. But that one is good.

Thanks! They were the first ones we put in - the BoM was super cheap too:

2 - LED rolls @ $11.64 (really used 1 1/4 of em)

1 - transformer @ $15.50

1 - connectors for the corners @ $4.99

Total cost was about $50.

The second set (under the sink and rangetop) is in parallel to the first because while the transformer could handle 1 1/2 strands, a continuous run may only be one strand

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4

I was thinking more like this, unless you want to be able to switch to 5v to test FCs etc, you probably don't need a variable supply. Quads will generally run very happily on 12v (about 3S)

Yeah, that might be a better solution.

If the TV and display are close enough, you might get away with 3rd party cable extensions (Litcessory is the only well-known compatible brand) and two 1m extension strips. But they are expensive and will look ghastly if you can't hide them. And you won't be able to control them separately.

The only other method I can think of is using velcro to fix them to the displays and constantly transferring them, which sound crazy.

I bought this driver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o7BMybQDSS3MG

These LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t8BMybSXEXV0P

And this is the result: http://imgur.com/n3E2Fkh

The LEDs installed real easy, the adhesive is strong and I've not had any problems in 6 months of use

Depending on your head size, you can choose from the following:

Acrylic Globe 12 inch

Acrylic Globe 16 inch

Acrylic Globe 18 inch

​

Some people keep mentioning Vape, but it would only provide a temporary screen until the smoke dissipates, unless you were to keep it on the entire time. Even at 0% nicotine, you can really hinder your breathing having it on for the whole time. The Youtube video (someone already linked) looks like he used a thin veil of badding to the inside. Doing this will allow you to see a little and you could pull a little away to expose the acrylic to give you some better viewing out of the dome.

You can build some pretty small setups with a Pi Zero W running motioneyeos. As for power if you have any external light bulbs on your house you can always run something like this, only thing is you would have to leave the light on all the time.

For my setup I just ditched the bulb (never used it anyway) and used just a socket adapter and then stuffed everything inside a 6" globe that fits my light fixture to keep it waterproof. I painted the globe white (except for a camera window) so no one could see anything but the pi writes to a network drive inside the house so if anyone does steals the camera I still have footage.

I was new to Pi's too and motioneyeos was pretty easy to set up. The network drive took a little figuring out but it wasn't to hard.

I mean the siren isn't a bad idea, just not a 130dB one :) Since Wyze cam is currently the top comment, an easy solution would be to get a Wyze plug and plug a siren into it (note you need a transformer for the one I linked).

Now that said, the right thing to do would be to get a proper security system with door/window/motion sensors. There are lots, Ring Alarm is a popular cheap one currently (and yes it has a siren). You could still add a Wyze cam or similar to try to catch any intruders after the fact, but I would never rely on camera motion sensors for intrusion detection.

Forgot to add, would something like this work pretty good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU8QBCO?psc=1

I'm not the person you replied to, but I've been using the older version of these for about two years. Alexa integration was added about 8 months ago, if I remember right.

This is the version I have, and it works just like voice commands for hue or LIFX.

They work with LED strips like this one which aren't as nice as the Hue strips, but are considerably cheaper.

> Power Supply: ($14 x 3) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the compactness of this supply and I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I have about 6 of romex coming from the backsplash wall to each current set of halogen under cabinet lights, which is somewhat limiting where I can relocate the power supply without dealing with pulling new wire. These are small enough where I may be able to just keep them under the cabinet. Thanks for the part links.

I haven't seen any 120v Zigbee controllers that output to 12/24v DC. Only ones like this for normal lighting fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSK1HVP

If that grey wire just plugs into a receptacle, maybe you could just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5

and power it with a 120 watt power supply adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07FQCF8WF

I use a fibaro RGBW LED controller on one of my TV's, which is cool, but is expensive.
I'm using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JZ2SI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it says WIFI but i had issues getting it connected. however it works just find as a standard controller and holds it's setting when power is cycled. I run a smart outlet to turn it on/off.

Thank you! I'm actually a biologist working on determining how HIV gains entry into cells. Sphere found here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00435J8HO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

I've done a couple installs of under cabinet LED strip lighting and I've found these LEDs to be very nice for the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5NUUAK/. I used a 40W magnetic transformer like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KWVFXC/. If using a dimmer switch, you need to use one compatible with magnetic transformers, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006UUI06. Electronic transformers are another cheaper option, but you'd want to look into the pros/cons.

Look up clear plastic globes, make sure you get one big enough for your head, and just use some foam for the neck area.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435DYNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FccEDb5TMSVK5

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

I've found this 120v AC to 12v DC converter on amazon, would something like this allow me to use the pin I've already installed into the machine?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Woah! So.. if I have a LED Strip already installed, can I simply purchase this SUPERNIGHT WiFi Wireless LED Smart Controller and it will integrate with Home Assistant?

Seems too simple!? I've been trying to over engineer some esp8266 led driver..

Yeah I should have included a screenshot of my calculation. Here's what I went off of, from led.linear1.org: https://imgur.com/a/O8o4Zo2

The power supply I bought is rated to 5A max, so I don't think it's the power supply. I bought this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As for the resistor, the calculator said it only needed to dissipate 1/4W so that's what I went with. Or it might have been 1/2W but it definitely wasn't super high power. Is that not accurate?

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

This one has 66 LEDs. Quite bright, IMHO:

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Wireless-Aluminum-Lighting-Wardrobe/dp/B077G2K26P

Sorry for formatting on mobile.

I ran about 150’ of these lights in my basement.. used them as cove lighting and under bar/shelf lighting. I found you can connect 2 of these reels of lights without noticeable dimming down the strip of lights. Online you can find pretty much any supply as long as it outputs at the correct voltage (get that info from your LED controller)

BINZET DC12V 2.5A 30 Watt LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRX360W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this to power my main controller I think it’s actually for a fountain..I have no issues with brightness. Your controller isn’t going to let enough current run through the light strip to ever allow more than 2 reels of lights to be powered, even if you managed to find a higher amp power supply.. this is driven by losses over the line and LED power consumption, at 12v losses and consumption is high.. if you had lights that ran off 48v you get significantly longer runs of lights before dimming on the far end was noticeable. I digress.

If you have a lot your running together get yourself an amplifier. Jumper wires off the LED light strip go to the input, 12/24v is input into the amplifier, and an RGB output wires can then be ran back to the LED strip.

LED RGB Amplifier Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F4D5SD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Next you’ll need an additional power supply to power
your amplifiers. I used a computer power supply.

SUPERNIGHT 12V 30A Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LATMSGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Jumper cables and power from power supply to amplifiers was run with 18 gauge wire.

Alternatively you can buy an additional local power supply to every amplifier if it’s easier than one central. I used one central so I could plug in my controller and power supply into one outlet on the wall, I then used typical NM 600v cable to control the outlet with a switch on the wall. Gives the feel of a professional light install for a fraction of the price.

I soldered mine but had some experience, however afterwards I discovered there are connectors to be found such as

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01M8Q3T0B

I'm sure I saw connector to RJ45 on eBay once so you can connect over distance with standard car cable.

Yeah, I'm using 12v2a, so I'll upgrade my power supply.

Would this be overkill?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEA8PQA/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01GEA8PQA

So the panels are just pieces of finish quality ply, with different items attached.

Panel 1 has a counter bell from a kitchen supply store (the top comes off and I screw through the base to attach it. Just make sure that you place clapper of the bell so that gravity holds it down.)

Panel 2. The sparkly letters are duck tape. There's a scrub sponge and a piece of sandpaper..

Panel 3 is just general hardware, plus a retracing key ring that I get at Lowes. If you ask the key guy for miscuts, he'll probably have a box full to give you.

Panel 4: I bent a sprayed a piece of round stock, then punched a hole through a dowel, which I then cut into the sliders.

Panel 5. You can buy little spring clips, a D-ring and chain, hook them together and it clicks and rattles.

The LEDs were a real learning experience. LEDs run on DC, so you need an transformer to step the 120V AC from an outlet down to 12VDC. (I used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) I mounted it in the end with the LEDs (you can tell how deep that area is, that's to give it all room to breathe) I used little pucks to keep it from being against the wood, because if you leave it plugged in for hours at a time, it does get hot. Power exits from that into the switches (which are just standard house units),in parallel then into the LEDs, which are wired in series.

LEDs will self-limit. That means (as far as I could teach myself) that if you string the right number together, they don't need resistors to regulate them, or they need very small resistors. I used http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php to calculate. (FWIW, I miscalculated at some point and exploded a string). Small loss.

LEDs run cool, so once I had them all in place, I just epoxied them into the end plate. and heat shrunk all of the wiring. Then I connected the switches and closed up the box.

I think. It's been more than a year since I did it. Of course, I should have written everything down and taken progress pictures, but alas....

(I mostly used the power of google on how to wire the LEDs, as far as power and mounting boards.)

FLS-PP LED Controller, Zigbee, Hue Compatible

Supernight RGBWW LED Strips

Power Supply, 60 watt 12v

They have a larger power supply available as well. You'll have to do the math on how many strips you want to run.

I have this exact setup with two strips (and no issues whatsoever)... Hue sees it just fine.

If you want to extend a Hue light strips around something there are extension cables so then you can use only one switch and one controller.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8Q3T0B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep! Only 8 and a quarter right now but it takes 9 when full.

This is what I used for the bowl.

I'm assuming you're from the States. I'm based in the UK, had a look on the American amazon and found this. It should work.

LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_euNqzb3MM791H

Boom Pow http://www.amazon.com/14-Clear-Acrylic-Globe-3202-14020-003/dp/B00435MT16

Would it be up to code to use this? Have romex go in one side directly.

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-LED-Transformer-Power-Supply/dp/B017R17YQC/ref=pd_sim_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017R17YQC&pd_rd_r=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413&pd_rd_w=7j4Qp&pd_rd_wg=OLP3P&psc=1&refRID=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Wireless-Aluminum-Lighting-Wardrobe/dp/B077G2K26P/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540847370&sr=8-4&keywords=rechargeable+led+strip+lights

https://www.amazon.com/Wardrobe-OxyLED-Under-Cabinet-Lightening-Rechargeable/dp/B06XXM2C6F/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540847370&sr=8-5&keywords=rechargeable+led+strip+lights

/u/Cynical_Chameleon see above

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

WiFi led controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ2SI6Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yup. I use this one because of the ir remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZ2SI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q2gtzbVMAWQVW

I don't know your specific need but you can trigger with times with specific levels. To get smooth motion use the transition with the automation.

If you're just looking for automation through Alexa, you can use this plus a strip. It needs its own app to function, though, doesn't work through the Hue app. It will not work through Google Home either unless you use HomeAssistant.

Ended up costing me about $35 for 10m of 5050 LED strips plus the controller.

All you'll need to do is replace your current controller, follow the booklet to set up the wifi, install the app and login, and then add it to your system.

Assuming that you don't mind them being controlled by a single controller (and therefore the same colour/brightness), I'd buy:

A 2m lightstrip plus for the two cabinets on the right - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072R5VQJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1502294468&sr=1-2&keywords=hue+light+strip,

one of these for underneath the microwave oven - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-White/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension

Which then bridges the gap to another 1m LED strip -(https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Personal-Wireless-Lightstrip-Extension/dp/B0148NMVJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-1&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension)

I use 4x of this and I can control it with my phone and Amazon’s Alexa can control them also.

"Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding)."

You need a 12 volt adapter. Find one for purchase.

Not really. I built a few of these for my closet. Got a led strip, 24v psu, and a couple magnetic switches for less than $50. Had enough to do the entire closet, couple drawers, and the underside of my kitchen cabinets. Those little LED strips are fucking handy.

Amazon has them right here.

I can give you a link to the instructions I used too if you so desire.

It's linked in the post but here it is again: Controller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy this.

You can do the whole kitchen using one Hue base/power source (you need at least one $90 base in order to control the lights). I used these Litesessory extensions+splitters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3NTCYU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you need to cut a strip, use these split end connectors as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDHP582/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a list of the parts for everyone:

LED Strip
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALTHLLG/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sound Sensor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOM93VK/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IRF 520
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HFD7N4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino Starting Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051QHPJM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are "UL listed," though I'm not certain that means they are for "in-wall" use:

Extension Cable for Philips Hue LightStrip Plus (3ft/1m, 2 Pack, White)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LOMozbC5RA5R3

you may have to plug both strips in to the controller with a splitter or by splicing as daisy chaining the strips end to end may cause the last LEDs on the chain to be noticeably dimmer than the first due to resistance.

Edit looking at it again I was assuming all white for the power supply rgb has the potential to exceed that limit. Try these I've had a lot of luck with them and they are well made.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WOIVRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yba1DbFJYRKVS

That's a 60w version, there's also a 150w version if you really want to go crazy, I've powered a kitchen with an obscene amount of built in lighting with one.

Also you may need a barel plug for the power supply if not hard wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1WZENK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jha1DbK5B56WM

Just read your question again.

There are no cameras I'm aware of that can accept a direct 120v input with no transformers. I doubt very much you will find one- no security installer wants to deal with 120v power (so there isn't much market for such a thing), and it would greatly increase the cost of the camera.

The closest I'm aware of is there used to be 120v powered camera enclosures that would internally supply 12-24vdc for an analog camera. Those however have gone the way of the dodo bird, because if you are in such extreme environments that you need a heated camera, there are now lots of PoE powered heated cameras available.

However, if you want to use installed cable only, that doesn't mean you're SOL.

Get a 120v hardwired power supply like this one. It's designed for LEDs but it should drive a 12v camera no problem. Put that in an external waterproof box and wire it up and you're good to go.

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.

Materials:

-Head

-Eyes

-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.

Profit.

Do the Philips Hue LED strips have the same connector width and pitch? If so something like this would solve my problem:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M7XDZ5V

A couple different ways depending on how you want them ran.
If you have a 12v patio light transformer/timer you could just cut each bulb out and wire in a socket and then put in a led bulb after that cut off the plug and splice on a wire and run it to the 12v patio box.
If no patio box you would need a 120v ac to 12v DC converter where you would cut if the plug and splice it to the converter.
Also depending on what type of bulb is in there you may be able to find just the bulbs and change them.
Take a picture of the bulb and socket so I can see what type of base it is