Reddit mentions: The best wood screws

The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.

Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.

I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).

This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.

I bought that same card from Overclockers UK and it's terrific, it was the first one I've ever bought/used so didn't really what to expect for £150.

Also just bought Articlean set off Amazon for a £10, it comes with the 3.5g tube but the Hyper 212 Evo should come with thermal paste anyway.

Also maybe consider ditching the sound card and going with the Asus Maximus Hero/Ranger motherboard it has better on board audio, I would imagine at least as good as the sound card you were looking at.

Rest looks good!

Sorry if I'm screwing this up, I've never posted before. I just had some questions and was hoping some of the fine folks here could help.

1. I'm working with walnut trying to build some bookcases for myself. The boards you see in pic#2 are 5" wide and and about 2 inches longer than they need to be and 1/16" thicker than they need to be. My plan is to biscuit joint them together making the boards 10" wide. (I only need 9-1/2") Is this the best way to put them together?
   
   
2. Do I need to joint & plane the boards before I biscuit them? I'm afraid 1/16" may not be enough wiggle room to joint+plane them. They can't be thinner than 1" exactly, as the tube steel is the same width.
   
   
3. If you look in pic#3 i'm planning on placing screws through the steel flanges into the boards, should I be worried about wood expansion? I'm have purchased these Brass Screws
   
   Any help to a novice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I'm doing the same with plywood in my garage for a woodshop, following this guy. After a lot of thought I settled on it being the best alternative to drywall. Easy to put up. I'll use finish screws and always be able to easily take the walls down to get to wiring or rearrange outlets. Cant put a hole in it swinging a wild 2x4. And no one expects a wood wall to be perfectly smooth.

A little more expensive if you're paying retail. But I found a business on craigslist selling stacks of plywood half sheets for $3 in the materials section.

To fasten the top to the cabinet? I didn't because most granite tops are held in place similar to how I did mine (so I understand at least.) A little construction adhesive in the corners and you're good to go.
However, when I do an undermount sink for my kitchen, I'll embed something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Insert-Fixing-Furniture-8x25mm/dp/B00KRXZB86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449846283&sr=8-3&keywords=furniture+insert+threads
.
With those in place around the perimeter of the hole, I can use any number of small brackets to fasten an undermount sink to the counter.

So I've heard. I'm going to buy some new thermal paste as well, is this a good kit do buy do you think? Looks like a good deal to me.

If you have the money why not upgrade? You might be dissapointed with the games though there is basically non out at the moment.

Don't send your ps3 to sony 150$ is too much to fix the ylod and im guessing eventually you'll be upgrading to the ps3 in the upcoming months anyway.

If you want to fix the ylod yourself it's quite easy here is everything you need:

http://digiex.net/attachments/guides-reviews/console-guides/playstation-3-guides/5344d1284624453-gilksys-playstation-3-ps3-yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide-ylod-fix.pdf

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Paste-Articlean-Cleaner/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939168&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+silver

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-1500W-Hot-Air-Gun/dp/B002VJO70W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939212&sr=8-4&keywords=heatgun

That's around 25 quid to fix it yourself, pretty cool.

looks great, but if i may nit pick a little, the anti-corrosion screws you used to screw into the wood were not made for wood. screws with that self-drilling tip might pull out since they're made for metal. you should have used something like this. Others have also commented about your choice to glue wood to cement, which is also not the safest choice you could have made. You should have used a masonry drill bit to drill a pilot hole, then used something like concrete screws or anchors that will expand to squeeze in tight to the hole.

I'm a fan of these Simpson 1/4" lag screws with 3/8" hex head/integrated washer. They're self-drill, and half-threaded just on the far end so they pull 2x material together quite well. They do well in old wood, too, which it looks like you have.

The ties will overlap the rafters by quite a bit (once you taper the tie's ends) so three of these lag screws at each lap joints should be overkill enough. Plus you'll get to use that spiffy impact driver you've always wanted. (If you're close to the cut end of the tie, pre-drilling may prove worthwhile to avoid splitting.)

Link to the Amazon page for them: https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Strong-SDS25312-R25L-Structural-4-Inch/dp/B005LD2G3A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Simpson+Strong+Tie+SDS+Structural+Wood+Screws&qid=1571962659&s=hi&sr=1-2

But buy local if the price is close, because that will help them decide to keep them in stock for your next adventure.

I notice that distantreplay had this approach as well. Updoots.

I used the old school terminology. These are much easier to use and don't require you to drill a hole. Also, although they look spindly they are as strong as larger lag bolts. Just make sure you're hitting the meat of a joist.

Kreg Pocket Hole Screws

Amazon: 30% off ($20.96) SK03 Pocket Hole Screw Kit or Starter Kit, good assortment of commonly used sizes for 1/2" and 3/4" material.

150 1 inch fine
150 1-1/4 inch fine
150 1 inch course
150 1-1/4 inch course
75 2-1/2 inch course (exterior rated)

https://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC

If your hardwood has any character or knots in it then you can use those locations as a good way to hide fasteners. Perhaps a composite trim screw and some color matched putty to fill holes. If you use these, they won't be backing out. They have a reverse thread at the top of the screw to allow for adjustments and alignment. Absolutely love these on the job. Link is just to show you screw, can get them in small 100 counts that cost around $8-10 at a local hardware place.

https://www.amazon.com/GRK-ProPak-Composite-Screws-605-Count/dp/B001SFFB4G

It is best to tackle it from underneath. You state there isn't access but that wouldn't be legal, there must be access. No one likes working in the crawlspace and moving insulation or working around pipes or being down there with whatever critter may be lurking in the darkness, but adding some cross blocking would be ideal instead of come through the finished surface above.

The floor is hardwood, I put some "gym" flooring I got from Walmart down, so I don't dare deadlift anything I'd have to drop, but they're more comfortable to lay on and roll my dumbbells around on. The cable tower I stove bolted to a piece of ply to give it a larger footprint to spread the weight over the flooring as well. It's also screwed into a stud near the top with these construction screws to prevent tipping. Haven't had any problems so far, but I also haven't really dropped anything on it knock on wood

There is special hardware that allows the tabletop to move as necessary.

Here is one style. With this type, you use a Forstner bit to make a little recess in the apron to allow for a flush-fitting, and then attach as normal. You put them on the 2 opposite sides that do not expand/contract as much (width of the boards), and then leave them off of the 2 sides that expand/contract more (length of the boards).

Yeah you just need a better (sharper) drill bit. Alternatively, get some self tapping screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Bolt-30992-Zinc-Plated-Self-Drilling/dp/B004XMZCSG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405128132&sr=1-2&keywords=self+tapping+screws

In the long run they really aren't that expensive and they really are the right choice for the job. I got a deal on this screw kit awhile ago and love it for holding all my different sizes. When I run low on a particular kind I just fill up that section. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-SK03-Pocket-Hole-Screw-Sizes/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373908528&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+jig+screws

In Minnesota i see them all the time. But i was never a fan of them. They would bite the bit and pull it out of the drill. But if you really like them this is a link to some on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HV6XJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z983ybHK7YPNE

Yes it is, air bubbles will have formed and act as an insulator. This will make the entirety of the thermal paste useless and lead to sever CPU overheating. You will need to purchase some more.

Here is a link to some good quality thermal paste that will last you a while as while as a remover kit

Thermal Paste and Remover kit : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Paste-Arcticlean/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483407008&sr=1-6&keywords=Thermal+paste

I would avoid those plates, they never seem to hold things tight enough, and they leave sharp corners everywhere, but if you insist on using them get some flat head (that refers to the shape of the head, not what kind of screw driver you use) or oval head screws.

There are a couple of ways I would approach this, depending on how you want it to look at the end. If you don't mind some screw heads in the top, attach a piece of lumber crosswise underneath, like picnic tables are built. Glue everywhere wood touches wood, and screw down through the top into the crosspieces. Depending on the tools you have available you can do anything you want with the crosspiece, angle the ends, round the corners, its up to you.
If screws in the top is a concern, then I would recommend a biscuit joiner. They're not the cheapest tool in the world, and they aren't a tool you'll use every day, but nothing beats them when you want to join two pieces of wood without visible fasteners.
If that's too much money you could consider a pocket hole jig, some woodworkers swear by them, some swear at them, personally I'm not a huge fan but they are cheap and if you glue the joints too it should work fine for your job.

Whatever you choose, get a sanding block and be prepared to sand those joints smooth. Some methods (biscuits) will make smoother joints than others, but they still need sanding to remove the tiny bump that will inevitably remain between the boards.

Edit Oh also, for clamping (which will only really be required if you do the biscuits), tremendous pressure is not required unless you are trying to straighten one of the boards when you clamp it. Put some cardboard or plywood on the edges to protect your tabletop, tie a rope around it loosely, then use a stick to twist the tied rope and put pressure on the joints. Leave the stick in and put something heavy against it to keep it from un-twisting. You'll probably want several of these for the length of your table.

I just used normal 1 1/2 inch No. 8 wood screws. But it really depends on what surface your mounting them on, to what you need

Ones like This are good for into wood or wall plugs

I got you.

20 Pack Figure 8 Steel Desk Top Fastener Clip

A quick search on Amazon found this. 1500 screws for $80. Not sure how much those kinds of screws go for normally (especially not in that kind of bulk) but that works out to 5.3 cents per screw. If you're a contractor or something and do a lot of screwing (heheheh) then you probably save at least that in labour.

Use these, and you will not strip them out:

https://www.amazon.com/HOMEPAK-42172-Square-Drive-Screws/dp/B007HV6XJW

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DC9USC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WcTxCbCFH11HP

I got that one and then just bought boxes of the screws I used the most.