(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best 3d printer extruders

So, you could get that but before installing it your have to print an e3d v6 mounting bracket, and a corresponding cooling mount and apparently some people recommend flashing the motherboard (PITA imo, maybe not needed.. more research required). The problem with that link that you provided however is that its a clone and therefore there is no telling how well it will perform compared to the original. Mainly this is because the heatbreak cooling bracket+fan may not actually be as effective as the original e3d v6 and therefore cause you a ton of issues like filament clogging inside, leaking through the throat onto the hotend... etc. The original e3d v6 is regarded quite well as one of the more reliable upgrades for your printer.


The original e3d v6 has gone through some iterations now and full upgrade kits come with better refined parts with all the right thermal paste to apply to the heatbreak as well as a silicone sock cover that goes on the outside of the hot end (the blue thing that covers the hotend in the link from the original wesbsite). Additionally, you pay for the reliability of that hotend/heating element upgrade - which is what can fatally fail and cause you a house fire. Imo the original is worth the money - I have an original e3d v6 myself for my older printer and it was a great upgrade - zero complaints.


I'd say; replacing the whole heatbreak and hotend/heating element + thermister (which is what comes with the kit) would be more of an advanced upgrade you're trying to do there so caution.


Now, the original nozzle+throat change without pfte lining that I was referring to at ~22 bucks can be seen here. Mind you the exact link to the original 22 dollar part, I cannot seem to find anymore but the key takeaways are:

• The nozzle size you need is 0.4
  
• The stock nozzle size is an Mk 8 design (which uses M6 threads) and the stock extruder is an MK10.
  
• You need an all steel throat + steel nozzle, what you have now in the stock model is this for comparitive purposes
  
• You should probably upgrade the cooling fan to a 40mm fan, and new cooling bracket to go with it to ensure you have enough cooling power for the upgraded throat since you will be running higher temps.
  
  
  See the cooling bracket upgrade people come up with for improved perf on higher temps here I haven't tried this myself so can't speak to the effectiveness but researching this should be simple enough and hooking up a new fan, you'll just have to match the same voltage + amperage as the stock one and you can literally cut the wires and rewire as needed.
  
  
  Note: Some caution is warranted as you may have to be careful during installation and perform some test prints + readjusting before you crank up the temperature in full and go for a PETG print. You may end up with a clogged nozzle simply because the cooling bracket + stock fan are unable to keep the heatbreak cool enough and therefore the filament melts inside the heatbreak and that will result in a clog when printing a slower (aka better/finer quality speeds).
  
  PS: Supplementary links
  
  
• e3D V6 mount + pictures - here - note the missing blue silicon sock and how dirty that hotend is.
  
• 40mm Fan @ 12v - here - Idk if this is the correct voltage but some quick searching should reveal that.
  
  
  Best of Luck!
  
  
  
  

Hm, so some quick stuff. The pi zero is kinda slow, i would not recommend it tbh. i got the regular pi 3 and it works pretty well. if you want timelapses and stuff (octolapse) then it's a must

they do have prints on thingiverse for the regular pi, you can still mount it on the printer. shouldnt matter what material, you just want to make sure it doesnt hit the printer head/heatbed (or any moving parts) and ensure it can get somewhat airflow.



https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pi+prusa&dwh=485d4388e714606


PLA is the easiest, start with that and you can try others (abs/flex/etc) later. get used to printing. prusament is really nice stuff but a tad more pricey. amazon has a few colors in stock
https://www.amazon.com/Prusament-Galaxy-Filament-Diameter-Tolerance/dp/B07M8GWZBS/

other brands i like, hatchbox, paramount, matterhackers, just look at the reviews and see what people say

noob kit, hm, these are kinda nice, few useful tools
https://www.amazon.com/40-Piece-Printer-Tool-Kit/dp/B07BM8C6SS/

needles to help clean clogged nozzles (though it doesnt happen often)
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Cleaning-including-Cleaner-Needles/dp/B07G493V8M/

liquid bearing for the steel rods should help, need to oil them up ever few months or when its dry

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-100-synthetic-lubrication-equipment/dp/B016YSLMXA/

i ilke kapton tape to hold parts to the heatbed better but you dont need it

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Polyimide-Printers-Printing/dp/B01FECA0E4

extra nozzle is always good (ive bought this brand but others SHOULD work, your results may vary)
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Extra-Nozzle-V6-NOZZLE-175-400/dp/B00NAK9TWM/

extra ptfe tube is nice too, i got some on ebay (a few feet for my mmu2)

blender is nice since it's free, i used 3d max myself but its expensive

ive printed a lot haha, my stuff is here https://www.instagram.com/dude2k5/

FYI, The Monoprice Maker select V2 is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1, and its also known as the Coccoon Create in other countries. If you see any of those names, thats your printer.

Your printer doesnt use an E3D V6 hotend, it uses a MK10 hotend.
You can use a V6, but you'll have to print a bracket for it, will probably require some firmware changes with requires flashing a bootloader with an arduino, and may require some additional hardware.

Normally its recommended to just heat up your hotend and carefully pull that plastic off with tweezers, but as your heating cartridge is damaged, that leaves you with two options-

• You can heat it up (oven, lighter, etc) and pull the crap off it. Depending on the formulation of the filament, acetone may help soften it. PLA isn't soluble in acetone but depending on the brand they may use other plasticizers, and those can be, so try soaking it in acetone for a few minutes.
  
  
• Replace the whole hotend. The store I link below has one, but it doesnt look quite right to me and the label isnt right... You can find replacement MK10 hotends on amazon/ebay from china, but if quality is more important than price to you I'd check out Microswiss. Theyre an American company, they make good stuff. You'll still need a heater block though... this one looks like its well made.
  
  I never used it, but this one from Gulfcoast Robotics looks well made as well. this is your whole setup minus a heating cartridge. A whole all metal hotend with nozzle and thermistor for $45 is a deal. They've even got installation instructions linked in the description. Side note- i assume it takes a 1/4in 6.35mm cartridge like the original but you might want to double check with them. You can never go wrong with well-manufactured American components.
  
  Either way you'll need a new heater cartridge (and probably thermistor). Heres a link to a replacement cartridge. Heres a link to a store full of wanhao parts.
  
  This printer uses an unusual sized heater cartridge- 1/4in, AKA 6.35mm.
  Most (E3D) cartridges are 6mm.
  
  Dont get a 6mm cartridge, get a 6.3-6.35mm cartridge. (A 6mm will be too loose and thats one of the reasons that the Anet A8 is such a fire hazard, the heater cartridge can fall out)
  
  Good luck!

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

Did you try to print 0.8 with a 0.4 nozzle or did you try a 0.8 nozzle and fail?

• Can you link the set of nozzles that you bought? Sure, here
  
• I typically leave my cooling fan off. I noticed that for wider prints, the fan cools the plastic and it begins to curl upwards. I solved this by leaving the fan off an increasing the bed temperature. Will curling not happen with thicker layers? If you have curling when printing PLA, something is wrong. You can't get the full benefit of 3D printing without part cooling, it's simply not possible. If you want help finding your issue, I'd be glad to help you :-) By default the fan turns on at... I think layer number 4.
  
• Cura allows you to adjust the layer thickness of each layer? Layers can be different thickness throughout your object? I'll have to search for this in the settings. Well, you can set the layer height of your initial layer to be a different height, sure. There is a setting called initial layer height which controls the height of the first layer. Mine is always set to 0.2 almost no matter what I'm printing, I haven't discovered anything where 0.2 didn't work really well for me
  
• Using a 1.0mm nozzle, can I still print down to 0.1mm? Well yes. But at that point it sounds like you're printing something that needs to be detailed, and then a 1mm nozzle isn't the right choice. But technically, if you wanted, you could print 0.05mm layers with a 1mm nozzle. But the entire point of a 1mm nozzle is tall layers, wide perimeters so you print fast and strong.

Great printer, the Ender 3 is very popular right now because it is fully open source. Which means if you have any questions, then there is lots of community support for it right now.

Out of the box everything is great, the only thing I would suggest is to spend a few bucks and upgrade the bed springs right off the bat. I've had mine a few months. Once I got my bed level it has been running great.

Also buy a few roles of PLA filament, because it only comes with enough to get a few test prints. Oh, and replacement nozzles, because they will eventually wear down and need replaced.

My brand is fox smart and it's a clear flexible 1.75mm PLA filament. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YO09NBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jp.JxbKDFPY9S

That sounds awesome and I would totally replace the whole extruder assembly if I had the money. At the moment, I'm taking my chances with an aluminum feeder part I bought online for $8.95 hahaha. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014SB12Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uq.JxbHCD3JSN I might be spending a lot of time with a jeweler's file (which I don't own yet) if it doesn't fit properly.

Also thanks for the suggestion once again. Here's a pick of the installed plate. https://flic.kr/p/KaSxzY

It really depends on a few things,

1. are you willing to build it yourself
   
2. what resolution do you want (quality) I wouldn't go less them 0.1 mm for this scale, 0.05 would be preferable but costs a good amount more usually.
   
3. How much do you want to have to tinker to make it work.
   
   I have a CNC
   http://www.amazon.com/CTC-Printer-Dual-Extruder-Spools/dp/B00GTDPHDM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
   
   It's much cheaper but a lot more work to maintain the firmware, parts etc.
   
   My friend has a Makerbot, not sure which model, but it works fantastic right out of the box, but here's a reason they start around $2k.

Welcome! Happy to help.

As a note, I found a better rated plated nozzle on Amazon here. It can be used without upgrading to the full metal hotend (even though it is also by MicroSwiss) if that is what you are looking for.

I've tried running without the tube once, at least in the V2, it just starting leaking every which way around the heater block...

If you're up to it, I just bought a E3D V6 copy from Amazon that claims that no PTFE tube is needed and is able to print very high-temperature plastics like poly-carbonate.

I myself am sick of having to cut a new piece of PTFE every couple of weeks and then having to open up the hotend and replace everything...ugh..

I haven't gotten the V6 yet, but seems like a design change from the current hotend is the only way.

Btw, I have the MPSMV2, which has a slightly different hotend than the V1. If you have the V1 of the Mini, you have to first print a carriage adapter.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-Z9cBbSRMNVZ0

UPDATE EDIT:

I received the V6 and managed to put it on...what a wonderful hotend. Everything just works. Had to do a bit of soldering for the heater cartridge and to accommodate the new brushless fan (that is amazingly quiet btw) but totally worth the work!

Have a look at the bulldog extruder. It has a much higher clamping force on the filament. It does require you to have Marlin or T3HD firmware installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDSHVCN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just works. There are a few gotchas that can be quickly resolved.

• The extruder turns in the opposite direction. It is nice that it removes the need for filament guides, but it does require you to modify configuration.h in the firmware. Toggle INVERT_E0_DIR
  
  
• Get a M3 bolt package. You will need at least 4 that are 16mm long. I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I am sure I will use them at some point.
  
  
• Prevent filament from getting wound in the extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121836
  This should also allow you to easily print TPU
  
  
• Replace the cabling attachment. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243464

Trying out different nozzle sizes is a great upgrade. For $100, you can buy a quite a few hardened steel nozzles that will give you more to play with and be as effective as a single ruby. The ruby was designed for very exotic abrasive materials. For anything you're likely to print, hardened steel is more than enough.

If you're not going to be printing abrasive materials, plan brass or nickel-plated copper are even cheaper. You can have a lot of fun with $100 worth of nozzles. The nozzles aren't of the best quality, but this nozzle kit does include a 16mm spanner/wrench & 7mm socket, which really make swapping nozzles out much easier. The nozzles are fine for plain PLA and just trying things out. Start with that assortment, then buy the sizes you want to use most often in genuine E3D nozzles. I've gone with hardened steel 0.40mm, 0.60mm and nickel-plated copper 0.25mm E3D nozzles.

My notes on nozzle sizes and types here.

If you are going to go down the path of upgrading the extruder, do not get one of the same style that is on the machine currently. There is a limitation in the design where you WILL encounter slipping of the extruder as you progress through the 3d printing journey.

Look at something like the bulldog:

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Injection-Extruder-Compatible-Filament/dp/B01G1K6FGK

Which is great, but requires adjusting the pinout on the stepper motor (or a firmware change)

OR

A BMG clone like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Extruder-Trianglelab-Creality-Ender-3/dp/B07P6X7DKL

It may be slightly more expensive, but the frustration that that they save when you start printing really fast and with large layer lines is priceless.

We are only talking about a couple of dollars anyway. LOL

so .... something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-nozzle-Hotend-Hardened/dp/B01LOYTH86

or were you looking for a cheaper 3rd party variant

the information on the thread has to be somewhere, you can use nozzles that are the same thread just fine (account for possible differences in the Z axis though)

i'm currently using a .8 nozzle from e3d in my taz after my default nozzle jammed super hard printing brassfill (also wanted to print in bigger layers)

If someone got me this I'd be very pleased. Would probably never buy one for myself, but it's supposed to be the best for filled filament.

Happy to be here the day the thread was created.

I'm looking at some improvements for my Wanhao duplicator i3. I'm looking for new nozzles, a new fan, and a glass bed. This'll be my first time modifying the printer other than adding the heating bed mosfet.

Also I recently learned that hatchboc lists their PLA as having a +-.03mm tolerance when in reality it's .05 and they charge enough that I could've been going with amazon basic this whole time. So I'm looking for a new filament manufacturer.

These are the nozzles (amazon link) I was looking at. I'm still using the .4mm the printer came with and I'm planning on using the smaller sizes mostly. My question is is this a fair price for this range (two each, .2 .3 .4 .5 .8 1.0) of sizes? Nobody is talking about the durability in the reviews (which are all 5 stars so I'm extra cautious) so what should I be looking for? They're all brass which is what I'm used to, and I'll I've ever really heard of.

This is the fan (banggood link) I was looking at to go with the cooler (thingiverse link) I've been using. Not too concerned with this buy. Just wanted to see if anyone else is familiar with the seller. I haven't spent much time on it but if I can find the same fan with prime on amazon I'm probably going to jump on it.

This is the glass bed (Amazon link) I was looking at. It's been months since I've worked with a glass bed and I don't really want to use binder clips. I was looking at this thermal pad (Amazon) and I have no idea what to look for. The size is what I'd expect but is there some spec I should be looking for? Is silicone just silicone and I should be buying the cheapest thing I can find? I believe I have the tools to cut the corners on the glass myself so I'm not too concerned with that.

That you for the read! Sorry I have so much I'm trying to be very careful with all this.

0.4mm is the stock nozzle.

I’ve had great luck with these.

I bought this nozzle which only had 3 reviews, but is rated pretty solid.


E3D v6 Extra Nozzle - 1.75mm x 0.25mm High Resolution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9QAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8nDkDb0BQG8FX

I’ll try turning down the acceleration. That’s a new one I haven’t tried yet, but makes sense.

Springs: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07J66DVL1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nozzles: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DL24HDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your nozzle size depends on what hot end you have installed, i have factory hot end and this is the kit.

​

Honestly, it's not difficult, there are A LOT of kits out there, a lot of lists, a lot of guides.

I've bought about $100 of parts for my printer. I'd consider everything up to the the glass bed from here essential. Also printed many of the parts like frame braces and belt tensioners. The powers supply switch was also nice, but hard to find the right cover because the power supplies changed over the years. If you get a glass bed get some clips made for glass beds off amazon, the nozzle will hit binder clips.

Upgrade the firmware to Marlin and you can enable bed leveling in the printer menu. This firmware is 110% required, the stock firmware has safeties disabled, and Marlin has tons of improvements.

Use a ruler or caliper to make sure each side of the z-axis is the same distance above the acrylic frame over the motors when it is on the stop switch, then level the bed the easy way from the upgraded menu.

Also if you've ever had filament leak around the threads and coat your heater block, get some teflon tape, cut a strip in half, and put 2 or 3 wraps around the threads on the nozzle and the threads from the extruder. Tighten everything back in and keep on printing. The first time it heats up it will smell for 15 minutes, but goes away.

If you want better nozzles that won't wear out like the cheap brass ones, get Micro Swiss nozzles. I've been using the same nozzle for months with no wear, even after having to torch it after a wood filament jam.

If you want to go the extra mile get a Gulfcoast Robotics E3D V6 bowden hotend off amazon and print the hotend and motor mounts. There are Micro Swiss heatbreaks for it, I replaced mine after breaking it tightening the block on.

And of course, settings. It took months after upgrading to a bowden hotend to get my settings fine tuned, and now I'm printing with a 0.2mm nozzle regularly. Check out this video and read the comment by the Cura dev.

Been using 3D Solutech filament for a while and I love it. I got some black to print the TeachingTech electronics case and the prints were coming out rough. First layer looked bad, but ended up being okay since it was on the glass. However, the last layer on top looked bad and felt really rough, not the smooth I'm used to. Here are some things I've tried:

Flow: I measured the filament and it was a little small (.066-.067"). Also, my printer was pushing 96mm per 100mm in gcode. I increased flow to 107% to compensate, but that didn't help.

Filament: I swapped for some 3D Solutech orange I've done a lot of printing with. No dice, same issue.

Humidity: I opened a BRAND NEW 3D Solutech green that was still sealed with desiccant. Looks a -little- better, but is still pretty rough.

Nozzle: Put on a brand new nozzle, granted from the same supplier on Amazon [here](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFQF3DW/).

Any ideas?

Edit: Bad leveling. Nozzle was too close to the bed.

Yes, the stainless steel will be too abrasive. Brass bristle brushes are cheap. I personally like the Micro-Swiss nozzles,(Amazon Link) which are more resistant to abrasive materials.

I've been printing glow in the dark pla all week using a cheap 0.8mm nozzle. First 500g through went just fine, although I ran it at 230 to help it flow better. After 500g I began bumping up my flow rate slightly to 105 to compensate for the nozzle diameter being worn bigger and bigger over time. I've gone through 750g now and I still dont need to change that nozzle. I bought this nozzle in a cheap multipack, it was roughly $10 for 22 nozzles of varying sizes SIQUK 22 Pieces 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DL24HDY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I ordered this for my i3 plus a couple weeks ago but haven’t tried it out yet. From the drawing (last image in the listing) it appears that the diameter of the cartridge hole is 6.3 mm, so it should fit a 6mm cartridge. I’ll measure the diameter and let you know!
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Duplicator-Printer/dp/B07B4J5MRB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2FXOQVA85K825&keywords=wanhao+i3+heater+block&qid=1555296152&s=gateway&sprefix=wanhao+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Just for comparison, this is my Benchy.

Dremel 3D20 with a Micro-Swiss HW-NOZ-MK10-04 recently installed.

PLA layer height .2mm, 20% fill, build speed 40mm/s, temp 220C. Sliced in Cura 3.1.0.

Wished I had printed it a little faster to get closer to your speed, but maybe this help to reinforce slower speed may help.

You just need a hardened steel nozzle, but the ruby one is cased in brass so you get the awesome conductivity with the durability of ruby. It comes in a freaking jewelry box. Anyway here you go. https://www.amazon.com/Olsson-Ruby-Nozzle-0-4mm-Filament/dp/B07FQRN67K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536892984&sr=8-1&keywords=olsson+ruby

I recently started using E3D's 0.25mm nozzle on my MK3. Works very nicely for miniatures. I bought it on amazon for about 17USD.

I ordered all of it on amazon. I got the dotbit bmg clone, although the triangle labs was recommended more, and the pancake stepper from stepper online via amazon. The direct drive kit I got was the basaraba dd upgrade kit. To attach a bmg style extruder to this kit, you’ll need a printed or machined adapter. I managed to have a connection and got someone to machine a mount for mine specifically

Stepper: STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor 0.7A 13Ncm (18.4oz.in) 17HS10-0704S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LESPDCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aeAWDbHDJ8A49

Bmg clone:

3D Printer Bowden Extruder,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6X7DKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Kit, Compatible with Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro, no firmware Modification Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9S9KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rfAWDbZQWTYK1

It’s important to put the spacer in this dd kit in between the motor and bmg clone as the motor shaft will push against the outer shell of the extruder, and cause a lot of issues.

I also am using a microswiss hotend

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is my favorite nozzle for Wanhao -
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-HW-NOZ-MK10-04-Plated-Resistant-Nozzles/dp/B01BDL4NKM/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DDCZV1Y9Q7PXDZKTPBR9

I tried the All metal hotend, and couldn’t get it to work. For some reason the cold end wasn’t cold enough and clogging was continuous. I went back to the teflon tube and this nozzle and it’s been spectacular. Simple, and it just works.

Oh dang, that is some dedication to post-processing! If you're interested in doing more small scale printing you could pick up some smaller nozzles. I got a set with some 0.2mm nozzles for mini printing

I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LOYTH86/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b6cWs2t_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=GJ6T8HTHRXCM5DJWZY8V&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=40cd3c0b-76e1-57d1-a907-cda9370f3f95&pf_rd_i=6066132011

It is supposed to be here today, so I can't tell you whether it is good or not yet.

It looks like I'm supposed to use a MK10 M7 threaded nozzle. If I were to replace it with a .5-.6mm nozzle, would that be sufficient? Would PETG/TPU be printable with .4mm, as long as temp is adjusted to suit?

I usually buy my nozzles on Amazon. I would look for a variety pack so you can try different nozzle sizes.

Here's a link for one I found on Amazon. I don't know how good it is, it's just the first one that popped up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0796C4S5P/

I just ordered this one for mine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDL4NKM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Try this ones

​

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-3 *original*

​

Cheap version

​

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796C4S5P/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this exact set. Compatible nozzles are MK8s if you go with a different product.

WINGONEER DIY 1.75Mm Remote Proximity All-Metal Reprap Bulldog Extruder for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDSHVCN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkW1Bb6XSAYH9

Regular: https://www.amazon.com/Nozzle-Micro-Swiss-Hotend-Upgrade/dp/B01EIJD7Z8

Hardened: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-nozzle-Hotend-Hardened/dp/B01LOYTH86/

Is this too cheap?

​

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B07DL24HDY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541868348&sr=8-3&keywords=mk8+nozzle&dpID=51Zc6O7UBIL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B07B4FHN72/

It is new, and I did tighten it down again after bringing it up to temp.

I'm using the GulfCoast Robotics V6 clone (linked below), with the all metal hot-end to make sure I don't run into any issues burning the PFTE tube.

The clog was in the nozzle heat break. I don't recommend getting a clog in there, as it was extremely frustrating to unclog and clean.

I was printing ABS with the stock air flow bracket, so I had turned the fan down to 20% to not cause excessive shrinkage, and Cura saves this setting between prints. I had completely forgotten about it, so the heat break wasn't getting nearly enough cooling, melting the PETG inside, and making a nasty clog.

Thank you for your advice, though!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1QaSBb99CXK5K

Edit: Clog was in the heat break, not the nozzle.

This might be wider knowledge than I think but I frequent this sub a lot and after owning my MK3 for about 6 months and going through about 4 spools of material (1 of which was wood filament), I began having issues with stringing and a drop in quality, under extrusion, etc..

I saw the post last week about Woodfill being abrasive so I decided to order some nozzles. Sure enough! My nozzle had worn down!

I even went to the discord two weeks ago asking why I'm having to drop my live-z by 0.0## every week. It was because I was grinding the tip of the nozzle or something. That was the reason!

I'm still not totally sure how this happened but it was likely the woodfill. I suspect 3 rolls of PLA didn't do it. I'm betting it was the 1 roll of Wood.

Check your nozzles people! They're super cheap. This is what I got. -- I want to fiddle with a 0.2 for some high detail prints. :)

I use a .2 nozzle for minis. The link has several sizes. There are many nozzle swap guides on youtube to check out because if done wrong it will clog. CCTREE 10pcs MK8 Extruder Nozzle For... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075487F63?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf