Reddit mentions: The best abrasive wheels & discs

Glad you started this thread, OP. I've never used those bristle discs, but I've been experimenting with other discs recently after buying a 2' x 3' piece of 1/2" HR plate and having to remove the rust, paint and scale to get it ready to use as a work surface for a Nomad portable table.

I was impressed by the Scotch-Brite Clean & Strip XT—looks like a purple sponge...of death. That thing goes through scale like it's nothing.

I also like the super-course grit (36, 50) AlO sandpaper/flex discs (if you don't mind the scratches they leave). I wanted to put a thin layer of scratches on this new table top, and then semi-polish down the rest of the surface, and these discs were great for that while removing paint, rust and scale. (The idea is that when the scratches start to disappear, I'll know when I've worked through the surface and can try to keep it somewhat level.)

As someone who is mostly self-taught and works alone, I'd love to hear from the pros about their favorite discs and how they used them.

Also, where are the best places to buy grinding discs? My local welding supply stores are relatively expensive (and not very local to begin with) and I've yet to find a single online store where I can get everything I need.

Best deal I found so far was when I saw this five-pack of conditioning disc samplers (with a disc holder in each) for under $90. Pretty sure it was a pricing error.

Angle grinder is best, but yhou can use a drill with a cutting disc that looks like this. HOWEVER, don't use a disc like I linked to, you want a cutting disk, and you cut straight down the front of the safe to cut the hinges off. Ask homedepot what the best disc is...They'll know... It will take some time, and make sure you have water on hand in case the sparks get smoky in the dust.

Source, I lost my combo and sentry sent it to me....Recently my ex took a sledge to it and got my booty.....



HOWEVER, the odds are REALLY slim that anything inside it is dangerous, but it was pretty well hidden, so it could be ANYTHING. You should be careful. Like I said earlier, if you have the Serial Number, send it to sentry, these are the instructions. call ahead to make sure they even HAVE combos for that SN....Otherwise you'll be wasting your time.....If you are a member of AAA they might notarize your letter for free...

Oh and here’s an example of the flapper discs I’m talking about (anywhere from 60-100 grit is probably fine):

https://www.amazon.ca/Pack-Auto-Body-Sanding-Discs/dp/B000WGHZYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=flapper+disk&qid=1566573693&s=gateway&sprefix=flapper+di&sr=8-1

And here are the sanding pads:

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/p/WLT15C458?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjIC80qeZ5AIVWh-tBh1d4w_jEAQYAiABEgIof_D_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIjIC80qeZ5AIVWh-tBh1d4w_jEAQYAiABEgIof_D_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439909580!!!g!544446048688!

You’ll also need this backing piece to attach the sanding pads too. It seems like a lot but trust me, it will save you so much precious time and energy that you need when you are in school:

https://www.amazon.ca/Walter-Surface-Technologies-15D044-Assembly/dp/B003O9ZT5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=walter+sanding&qid=1566573978&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I would take a metal scribe and just go over the marking intel you felt the where deep enough to show up after sanding out all the pitting. A red wheel (deburring abrasive wheels) would work great for this. There is many types but I would go with a low abrasive type like this

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Strength-Aluminum-4000rpm-Diameter/dp/B00C6EM6AA/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1549192578&sr=1-30&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scotch-brite%2Bwheel&th=1&psc=1

You don’t need a pack of 40 but i don’t see the single one..

A ROS would work just fine to but can be a little slow. start with a something ruff and just work your way down once you get most of the pitting out. Just remember to watch your markings and keep removing material as needed so you don’t lose them. Hope that helps and feel free to ask anything if you got any questions.

Edit: you might actually wanna go with something a little more aggressive just to speed up the process.. here’s a couple videos thou to show the types and how well they work

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8qk4gf3wt9w

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ORskUkwMYlM

http://www.eaavideo.org/detail/video/799733595001/scotch-brite-wheel-for-deburring-polishing

/u/GoontenSlouch, /u/ArtemisPicks, I did this one by hand and I wouldn't recommend that because it took far too long. I just wanted to try it out at first.

I will likely start off on the rest of them by taking the edges off using these sanding disks. I also have these sanding drums on the way to reach the tighter spots.

After the rough shaping, I put the pick into my vise and used a wide strip of 320 grit sand paper to round off the shaft. I worked on one side for a while and flipped it 45 degrees and did the same for each side. After that I used 400 grit sand paper in a thinner strip to clean things up. I wanted to make sure they were nice and round and free from any pitting the sandpaper may have caused. I may have to turn back to the needle files to put the bevel on the flag.

/u/MeacK777, these are the only dimple picks that I have right now. I have another set on the way that I will detail when they arrive. If you have the time and dedication to put a lot of work into your tools, then these are a solid option. The metal is quite durable because it took more work that I expected.

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

Not really but this guy has alot of video on working with many stones and how to maintain them:

https://youtu.be/PyGOxzaJGO0

Dunno if you can find it cheaper elsewhere: https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636855653-8-Inch-Combination-Oilstone/dp/B000XK5ZDY

I use something like this to keep my stones clean and fresh: https://www.amazon.com/BephaMart-Diamond-Grinding-Dresser-Dressing/dp/B01BAGQRAY

Wire brush works, but is kinda sketchy; the bristles fly off a lot. A cup grinding wheel is much way better & safer. A dust shroud is money well-spent, too.

I believe those nuts are crimped, and the threads are probably rusted and fused solid. You're in for a fight.

I got a Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring specifically for dealing with problems like this. It is amazing and has saved tons of time. But an impact wrench might not work if the torx head is damaged enough.

Skip the torch. If you can't get an impact on it, your best bet is to cut the bolt off. You have three options: Cut the nut-side off and punch the bolt out through the bushing and axle mount. This won't work if the bolt has rusted solid to the steel insert in the bushing (it probably has). Option two is cut through the bushing directly next to the mount, and punch the bolt-head out. The last option is to cut the torx head flush with the mount and punch the bolt out along with the bushing.

For cutting, I recommend a saws-all with a carbide-tipped blade as the safest option. Be careful to not cut into the mount too much. If you don't have a saws-all, you could try to cowboy it with an angle grinder with cut-off wheel. Check clearance and geometry to make sure the wheel is actually big enough to cut through before the grinder shaft or body hits. If you cut the head, hit it with a flap disc on an angle grinder (most under-rated angle grinder tool IMO) to get it flush with the mount so you can punch it through. Hell, you could flap-disc off the entire head - would probably be safer than using a cutting wheel under there. 40 grit flap discs take material off amazingly fast.

Apologies for the long post. I've been where you are and like to help folks who are trying to help themselves!

You can try a flooring adhesive remover like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-Easy-Release-1-Gal-Adhesive-Remover-12250/202046244

Or go with a grinder and a diamond wheel for polishing concrete
Something like this: HUELE 4-Inch Concrete Turbo Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel for Angle Grinder 12 Segs Heavy Duty ,Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CRH9GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mvQOBb2YJ2XXX

I never really had luck with the adhesive remover but I know those diamond cup wheels are the quickest.

These things ROCK.
https://www.amazon.com/Polifan-Abrasive-Phenolic-Backing-Zirconia/dp/B003HIWL9K

Expensive as poop but if you use it right(no down pressure) they last and work amazing.

I saw another youtube video where a guy used this type of donut hole attachment with a power grinder for his centering. It looked to be very effective and quick. Essentially he was mixing turning with power grinding. What are your guys thoughts on using this method?

Once it's out of the flask it comes off pretty easy I polish with the 3m rubber publishing wheels like these There is a mild acid that is supposed to be good at breaking this stuff up but I haven't tried it yet https://www.amazon.com/BUYGOO-Abrasive-Bristle-Brushes-Mandrels/dp/B07G8WC2QF/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3m+polishing+disc&qid=1573009011&sprefix=3m+polishing+di&sr=8-5

The metal on those is recessed. Something like this would probably be a better choice though.

something like this on a die grinder would be your best cheapest bet, a lot of the guys ive seen use a bigger version of that with an electric straight die grinder

and no not jsut clean of grease, you want shiny bright metal

If you go the sanding route (which may not be the best way to go), you do NOT want to use diamond polishing pads. Those are for polishing, as in turning smooth concrete into mirror finish concrete. Not for something as aggressive as what you're looking to do.

You'd want a diamond grinding cup like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I1eCCbNMJCFJW

With an angle grinder. It'll grind the concrete down to a finish that's smooth to the touch. It will go quick, less than an hour.

It will be MESSY. Grinding concrete creates a bunch of fine concrete dust that gets in your face, eyes, nose, etc. You'll want goggles and a face mask.

Well done. Now pick up a concrete grinding wheel, (the type that fits on a corded drill) and work it out nice and even.

example: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6

Yeah, if you never do any DIY house projects, it's probably not the best first one. But, it was easier than I thought. I used an inexpensive concrete cup wheel (this one: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6/) on edge, because I didn't want to pay for a fancy purpose-specific crack chasing attachment. Best tip: wet the concrete first. It minimizes dust, and it makes this cup wheel less aggressive and easier to control.

I'm currently working on filling a seam between the concrete garage bay of my shop, and the wood floor side of the shop, which is bordered by 2x4 lumber in the floor. So there's this 1/2"-1" gap, with concrete on one side of the floor, and 2x4 on the other. I'm thinking of just using the same technique: grind down a bit and then fill with 2-part epoxy. Sound reasonable? I'm tempted to use Bondo all-purpose putty, because it specifically says it's for wood and concrete, but I'm hesitant to use it on a surface that not only gets walked on, but has equipment rolled over it. What do you think?

If you know about the weight swings and adjust for it I would save the money for something else. I have a pair of 'standard' 45s that weigh 42 and 47 pounds so they are labelled and I throw an extra 5 on the side that gets the 42 if I ever use em.

The poster that suggested a flap wheel in a drill is onto a good idea, I did that when I refinished my cheap plates and the bore is a lot smoother now. I used something like these but I got them locally for cheaper from a surplus store.

Do it by hand. With this: May want to pick up a higher grit as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TGLAJ0/ref=oh_aui_bia_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cut off 10 - 12" section, hold in both hands and use like a shoe shine cloth. (Am I the only old fart here that knows what this is?) Chucking the knife in a vise is handy but not essential.

I was thinking more like this

Thoughts on a cup wheel? Might be even faster. I kinda want to do this to my lodges now. They’re definitely not as smooth as some of my antiques.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4774-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Grinding-Wheel/dp/B003XXE0RA

I may have to be the guinea pig and give one of these a rip.

You should just buy a fine 3m scotchbrite wheel and skip the sandpaper steps. It'll speed up your process to just a few minutes per club.

Then you can upgrade to a sandblasting cabinet and use a fine grit glass bead and get a professional looking finish quickly.

I’d use something like this.


2" x 1" x 1/4" Shank Mounted Flap Wheels, 80 Grit Aluminum Oxide - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M295SA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iiMnDbWJYS0R6

dry,

https://www.amazon.ca/Ocr-Concrete-Diamond-Grinding-Grinder/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=asc_df_B01CQQR3DW/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292953024923&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8380050951177615494&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001920&hvtargid=pla-493842304061&psc=1

I haven't used one on a regular corderite shelf. Only silca carbide. I suspect you'd need to be a lot more careful with corderite. That said, I use silica carbide for bisque firings too, they're more expensive but it's worth it.

Also if you want to expose aggregate you'll want a grinder wheel like this. Even at 50 grit the it will take you forever to expose aggregate. This one will uncover aggregate in about 5 seconds. It will attach to any 5/8-11 polisher. https://www.amazon.com/Ocr-Concrete-Diamond-Grinding-Grinder/dp/B01CQQR3DW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479154313&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+cup+wheel