Reddit mentions: The best automotive control arms & parts

Yup, those are definitely things I would recommend. The plugs you can do in 5 mins. Ford uses double platinum plugs stock. You can either get the Motorcraft or the Autolite double platinum and they'll work great and are pretty cheap. I bought the Autolite at Advanced for like $15 two years ago and they work great. While you're at it, I'd also recommend you change the plug cables. Denso make the plugs for Ford, so you can get the original part directly through them for cheaper.

http://smile.amazon.com/Denso-671-4061-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000EQB36A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Oil you can use high-mileage or synthetic. I prefer to use synthetic because it's higher quality, protects the engine better and it's either a bit cheaper or the same cost-wise. I change mine every 6K miles and just pick out whatever 5W-30 full synthetic with filter they have at Advanced. It's usually $20 or $25, while conventional high-mileage is $18-21 but that you should change every 4K or so so it's not actually cheaper.

You should definitely change the brake discs. You could buy the original but good quality replacements can also be had like ACDelco or Raybestos.

The water pump... well I'll be honest, mine has the original one. The water pump typically doesn't fail or leak on these. Mine hasn't leaked any coolant at all and the original radiator seems to be holding up fine too. If you wanna replace it as a preventative measure you could and it's easier than most cars because it's not connected to the belt. It's a 1 hour job if you're experienced, around 2 if not.

I would definitely, definitely recommend you do the valve cover gasket and rear dogbone control arm if they haven't been done. Do not use any silicone on the valve cover. Reason why it's important to change is because the rubber breaks and engine oil will start leaking into the plugs, fouling them and if it's bad enough can cause the car to misfire. Change them every 60K or so. That rear control arm is very important too because it has to do with rear tire wear. That control arm is the one that sets the rear camber of the car, and at around 100K miles the rubber breaks and you'll be able to notice because of the rear camber. Tires will last 1/3 of what they should unless you replace it. It has independent rear suspension which is great for handling, but it also causes that.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-521-416-Control-Arm/dp/B004AIS1R2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462747313&vehicle=2001-54-679-49--1-8-5-3458--1-1-747--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2001%3Aford%3Afocus

Any car with that mileage you should check the front and rear shocks. The rear are super easy to do. I followed a video and did it in 10 mins total. The front are a bit tricky so those take around an hour. If you want it to ride like stock use Monroe, if you want a bit sportier/stiffer use KYB.

there's a special tool "required" to do them (easily). This is the perfect picture to show you. from the factory they come like the closer one, and you use the special tool to pull them out, elongating them like the further one, allowing the control arm to slide when you turn the eccentrics.

All of the 88-98 full size had these, as well as express, astro, and apparently, blazers (but i've never done a blazer that had them).

-Now THAT's fancy.

-For a ball joint? Over 10K? Fancy!

-Not as fancy but still fun!

Thanks for the contest!

I've had great luck with the the Crown HD steering upgrade. Its built for a V8 ZJ (I have a 4.0) and is just beefier all around, and you get to start completey fresh. I replaced the crown dust boots with energy suspension poly boots based on reviews I've read, and overall its held up great. Only complaint is that one grease nipple will no longer accept grease after 18+ months, but I'll be changing it out soon.

Not sure why another user is suggesting you need poly bushings? I personally prefer real rubber bushings like OEM (Clevite). Poly may last longer, but is a harsher ride and can squeak if you don't grease the joints religiously. The JKS adjustable track bar (double sheer) comes very highly recommended in the ZJ section of JeepForum, and I will be getting a front and rear for my next ZJ build.

If you are keeping stock control arms REPLACE the uppers and lowers. They are so cheap, and fresh bushing(including the two axle end front upper bushings pressed into the front axle) makes a world of difference in ride quality.

Actually I have not had the issue yet. But my buddy has been though 2sets. I can also tell you after driving with only two changed out, there's a huge difference. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FXJK5A/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1 lower joint... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FXQ8EQ?pc_redir=1407303222&robot_redir=1 uppers I have not tryed these yet but should work according to http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1062551 they first post left hand threads but somebody corrects they guy on the second page. Hope this helps!!!! :-)

Basically the front lower control arm. If you take your wheel off it becomes super obvious. I just had mine off to rotate tires on my 2010 FXT and decided to take a close look after seeing this post... they looked the same and need replacement. Looks pretty easy to just replace the whole unit according to this video https://youtu.be/pbWz9TWuVMk

So I just ordered a left and right unit from amazon Control Arm compatible with Subaru Forester 2009-2013 / Impreza 2011-2014 Front Right Side Lower w/Ball Joint and Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JR5S3LD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9rXqDbXEMT0TH

I bought mine off Amazon. If you've never replaced them before you're in for a treat. It's one of the most time consuming projects on our cars. You'll want a hole saw, sawzall, lots of WD-40 or lubricant of choice, a blowtorch, case of beer, a ball joint press kit, 20 ton press (optional but very helpful for installation) and a couple hours at least, I think I spent 4-5 on it. My suspension had 200+k on it though, so needless to they did not want to be removed.

These were the ones I put in about 700 miles ago:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002799EI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vzs5AbGPHYXGV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9O6JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Szs5AbWAFQZJ9

https://www.amazon.com/DLZ-Suspension-Kit-Front-Assembly-Compatible/dp/B01H05VKJW/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=1997+accord+suspension&qid=1562075357&replacementKeywords=suspension&s=gateway&sr=8-9&vehicle=1997-59-751------------&vehicleName=1997+Honda+Accord

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If you're gonna do ball joints, might as well do all of it while you're in there. It's so cheap, why not.

Throw in a set of struts and strut bushings for another $150-200 and that thing will ride like it's 1997 again.

I bought this kit, it came with upper + lower control arms, and most of the ball joints already pressed in. that first kit above one only has the uppers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792FYGJ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How difficult is the repair? I have a socket set, a bunch of accompanying tools, and small bit of experience. I'd love to fix my mistake myself, I actually enjoy working on this thing. When the snow melts, there a garage I can park her in and work on her in.

Anyway, One of these? Or something similar at least. Any recommendations? Anything else I should grab?

https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-113105G-Front-Control/dp/B001G7GQCC?keywords=energy+suspension+bushing+miata&qid=1536294124&sr=8-12&ref=mp_s_a_1_12


Make sure to get extra grease, and use as much as possible, makes the job a lot easier, and you'll have a lot left over if you decide to do the rear or subframes.

Edit: I used a torch and shop press to get the old bushings out. these just slide in, where new OEM ones would need to be pressed in with the shop press.

Since you are looking w/ coil springs I am assuming you are 2WD?

May I make a suggestion - for not much more money you can replace everything with quality MOOG parts for not much more than what you're looking at in just replacement ball joints.

MOOG replacement control arm/ball joint assemblies:

Part #RK80052 Front Right Upper; RWD; Front Coil springs
$47.70
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK80052-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B007ZLN4YG


Part #RK80054 Control Arm/Ball Joint Assembly Front Left Upper; RWD; Front Coil springs
$47.72
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK80054-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B007ZLN5LS.

For the lowers:
MOOG K8771T Lower Ball Joint Kit
$32.88 (x2)
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8771T-Lower-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C5A044.


I did not even research the best prices and this is what I came up. So for a huge upgrade in part quality you are looking at a total of ~$161.18

Quality Parts, aye.... So not the $74 Pair off amazon? haha

I used these and they made a huge difference in my ride.
TeraFlex 1254000 JK Sport 4 FlexArm Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHLLF3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a24.AbWWNEK0Z

First I want to say that for that price I think you were grossly overcharged. With the proper tools and with the absence of rust and other slowdowns it should only take and hour per ball bearing. But besides that point I have found all of my suspension kits through amazon. I am like king what seems to be the right one for your car, but double check all the details for sure.
Chassis Kit for Nissan 350Z 03-09 & for Infiniti G35 RWD Models ONLY 03-07 14Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6U2SJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YE64BbD54CGWG

The control arms and ball joints are MOOG brand, which is a good name in suspension parts. The price of each control arm listed here is about four times what it would cost vs buying it on Amazon.

Look here: same brand name and everything, and $70 each

The bolt kit for the struts is less than half of what they are charging you:
Bolt kit

If it's just a black steel wheel with a hubcap, $145 each seems pricey, especially for a 15" wheel.