Reddit mentions: The best automotive exhaust heat shields

Something like this, an adhesive backed, shiny aluminum material: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DWQ4K8B4HVE5ZCPAMM2N


Noico sound deadener is butyl backed and shiny, it might work just as well but be cheaper. It's just like dynamat (butyl), pretty sure muscle car guys use that on the floor to reduce heat from the exhaust. But it will work best if you can face the shiny side towards the heat source, and leave the shiny side uncovered and clean and shiny.

So something like this? Presumably just uncouple the lines and slide this stuff over them? That seems pretty easy.

Thanks for the help!

This is a good kit

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=asc_df_B015NOKWQY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650

Might be a good time to do the fuel injector upgrade. Look it up there is a ton of info on this upgrade. Replacing the spark plugs would be good preventative maintenance. If you can maybe run a compression test before you reinstall the spark plugs. I do that to all my new cars to get an idea of engine performance and wear-down.

I think a full open airbox with some heat shielding on the bottom of the inner air box would be the way to go. Once I do my 12 engine swap I plan to line the frame and under side of the inner air box with heat shielding to help keep heat off the fuel and keeper the intake air temp cooler, like this.Lucky for the R is the only bike with the ecu in the front of the bike, some riders of the X and the S have had heat issues with the ECU as it sits under the seat. The right side of the frame can get really fucking hot if you have not noticed it yet. I got this and this off amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY#customerReviews

That's it, I've only heard good stuff about it. But I would do more research on it as a just in case measure to make sure your money is being spent well.

It is an '82 XS400 special. It ran from 77 to 82. I have drag bars, but left all the cables the original length. The horn bracket got flipped upside down so I could access it/install a new one. I made a bracket that attaches to the bar running down in front of the engine to hold to LED fog lights, run by an auxiliary switch. Painted and wrapped the headers and have emgo shorty mufflers. Emgo pod filters, and a puck-style filter for the breather tube nipple. Led tails, led indicator lights, Upgraded headlight. Point of note on the headlight, mine was a sealed beam halogen. So to add a new bulb you have to buy an aftermarket reflector housing from candlepower.

EDIT: Also forgot Oury grips, cafe mirrors, new fuel lines, fuel filter and vacuum tube.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CA6E56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003T0ITF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HAQGO20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00230QCIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VFL0SO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDYB3P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UVME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZUJGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKKSTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGKKMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SK7N8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETCIO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well if you're​ interested here it is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RBCP51E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_f485ybFVP4CHC

I think it would work if you had a designated rock holder, and a place for the rock holder. Like a cage, or a steel box with some holes , an ammo box with 2in holes drill on two sides, filled with hot rocks. This ammo box will rest in some high temperature insulation (think turbo insulation), so that it doesn't burn the floor. And maybe a small fan pointed in the direction of the box.


 


EDIT:
Maybe this materail under the box, and under it a wet piece of wood.

I put this on the oil pan, works great:

Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier, 12" x 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lECCb4G1XBP2

The first thing you should do is change fluids, then fix the heat soak problem if you have a 4.0 and it hasn't been taken care of. I bought a kit from Amazon that's supposed to be an adequate fix for about 60 bucks which can be found here :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015NOKWQY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After that, I'd focus on the rust problem. There's a good thread here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/taking-care-of-frame-rust.328/
This is another good resource for questions that you may have:
www.wranglerforum.com

Also, Epstein didn't kill himself.

Engine hose heat sleeves work quite well for this application. E3D v6 block fit's a 3/4" flexible heat shield quite well, and it's available in pretty much any auto parts store. Just cut to size the slip it onto the block. Plus you have extras for replacements. Bonus: no more burning your fingers on the heater block :)

Here's some fancy stuff high performance engine builders use. Can withstand continuous 550C heat:
http://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-204014-Sleeve-Roll/dp/B00FS9K53U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462990915&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+shield+sleeve+3%2F4

The wrap came with the headers in an unmarked box so I can't say exactly but It looked like this so I think it was 50ft. I had about 15ft left over.

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Aluminized-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 or https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14130-Sided-Thermo-Retardant/dp/B001GFW5Q0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3 ?

Installing a new heat shield worked for me when I was having multiple misfires. I was having this issue because of heat soak like a previous commenter said. P303 came back though, so I got a new cylinder head coming this summer.

Try this:
Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1TedBbG7THY43

I found just the larger heat shield for like $20 on eBay but if you want to go all out there is this one.

I'd buy a heat barrier and a hose clamp or two. A safe and simpler solution would be to keep the car outside and run the extension cord under the garage door. I have a 1.5KW inverter that lasted me about 7 hours on a full battery (gen1). My power went out for a full day in the winter but I was able to run a small heater and charge my phone.

https://www.amazon.com/Hiwowsport-Aluminized-Thermal-Adhesive-Reflective/dp/B016XUJZJM

Maybe it's something like that?

You think this would work alright too?

https://www.amazon.com/ARTR-Titanium-Exhaust-Stainless-Locking/dp/B012C6HP6Q/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478016220&sr=1-9&keywords=exhaust+wrap

Thermo-Tec 13575 12" X 24" Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_My2Dzb5GHPG0C

This might help. Saw a review where somebody actually used it on a miata.

I'm pulling this directly from my order details except I got one roll and paid $7.77. Looks like they changed it: HM&FC Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier 2(IN)x 16 (FT) Tape Roll 4 Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072L26SYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c44UBbP20K73F

There are other brands. I did two layers right where the adapter sits on the DAS. I did it so every part of the adapter touching the DAS would touch the gold side of the tape.

The long start on hot 4.0 engines is often caused by a heat soak issue that affects the injectors/fuel rail. There is supposed to be a heat shield on top of the intake manifold that keeps heat of the injectors but it’s flimsy and often gets trashed/torn out during repairs. On some 4.0s there are TSBs issued that also call for the injector to be wrapped in individual shields. They make kits for it. I don’t know about your fuel pump issue, but just something to note regarding hot engine starting issues.
Design Engineering 010378 Fuel Rail and Injector Cover Kit for Jeep (1997-2004, 4.0L Engine) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XXEwDb1PVADX9

I had the same code and it turned out to be heat soak. The intake manifold sits right above the exhaust manifold, so on very hot days the hotter air in the intake was causing fuel to partially vaporize in the fuel rail before it could get to the injectors. Fuel can't atomize properly which means its not combusting as completely which can trigger P0455 even with the vapor return line is doing its job properly.

Check all your lines, tighten your gas cap, and buy a $20 code reader so you can reset your check engine code(s) yourself. If the code doesn't come back within a day or so then heat soak could be your cause. I bought and installed this kit and that solved my problem for good.

https://www.amazon.com/ARTR-Titanium-Exhaust-Stainless-Locking/dp/B012C5FOLK/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493655390&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=titanium+mesh+wrap

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZKl0Bb2F0NPJQ

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2A/

It works great and is very convenient as it's the perfect size for the CR-10. That said it's quite expensive compared to buying a whole roll and cutting it to size, but I didn't need more so no reason to waste it.

Will this do the trick ya think?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523970088&sr=8-3&keywords=exhaust+shield

I went with the Generic 12 hole from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TOHUU-0280156161-Upgrade-Injector-1999-2004/dp/B07KWWQXL4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=32B7CIJNN1XON&keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+injectors+12+hole&qid=1554903065&replacementKeywords=fuel+injectors+12+hole&s=gateway&sprefix=12+Hole+fuel+injectors+%2Caps%2C582&sr=8-4-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee

But you can go with any from other Suppliers too. all are about the same quality. Definitely a difference in pickup, but fuel economy depends on driving style. Don't forget to replace the fuel rail shield while you have the fuel rail off. https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+rail+shield&qid=1554903190&replacementKeywords=fuel+rail+shield&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee.

Otherwise, A Cold Air intake with K&N filter and a Throttle body spacer will be some of the first (and least work intensive) performance enhancing things you can do. There is a trade off between pick up power, low end torque and economy that you should watch. A Jeep is not a dragster (not built for it, though the project would be fun) and you don't want the wheels breaking loose when you are on a pile of boulders. Stopping at every gas station you pass is also not a desirable feature....

Have fun!

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3frMBbCHHJP47

Oddly my Amazon is showing it as unavailable but that is the way to go, if you still have issues after that then check your fuel pressure at the rail.