Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement battery cables

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-22754271-Original-Equipment-Negative/dp/B00B4L4R3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496883106&sr=8-1&keywords=22754271

Looks to be the part I need. Maybe I'm just dumb but I'm not sure how this cable is different from the one I have from the factory.

EDIT: Actually i think I get it. It's the crimp that is the problem. I assume the one I found on Amazon is crimped better, giving it a better connection.

As the title suggests, I finished this install of an HK Offroad hidden winch mount on my '03 Overland a bit ago, finally getting around to posting a few pictures.

It's not a super-easy project, but not that bad either; just expect to spend a lot more time fabricating brackets and figuring out how to make your particular winch work on your particular Jeep than you planned on. Have some good drill bits, a step drill, an angle grinder, a Dremel tool, etc.

Winch mount: https://www.hkoffroad.com/collections/wj-hidden-winch-mounts/products/wj-hidden-winch-mount?variant=145913970695

Winch: https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-97495-XRC-Winch-Capacity/dp/B00K150ZNG?th=1

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5QNYN9/

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGJGLWW/

I would just grab some new cable (2 guage or whatever was stock) and an inline fuse holder and replace it. The terminal wires are probably corroded way under the insulation. Then cover any exposed area with dielectric grease. Something like this...


fuse holder

cable

lug

This is what I bought for my setup. The costs have gone up, but that one panel can fill a couple of batteries without any problems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPSCET2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JH1PABW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060YHLJS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RCJB62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFERZKO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWZ3LXPHZK09

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDZE33E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24WV2YRRJEBAG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A05654602L3XUQ70M87BV

You can buy a universal ground like this. They also sell the terminal clamp that this attached to.

https://www.amazon.com/Spartan-Power-Black-Battery-Negative/dp/B07HHH359R

I get that, as I said, put it on a female cig socket and run a USB extension (preferably a flush mount style like a dis) to where you want your "OEM look" USB socket. All the fussiness goes behind panels.

Your issue is clearly the red wire. Cut it and everything should be good to go. Maybe its the blue wire. On the other hand could be the green. Green is go right?

What a freaking mess. You could always buy a terminal block and clean a lot of that mess up.



Home Depot has them cheap.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Double-Row-Terminal-Block-4-Position-1-Clam-CPGI-1546310-4/202204313

yeah factory head unit would be the radio that came with the car.

The battery cables on your car - these [battery cables] (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-22757924-Original-Equipment-Positive/dp/B0055AYROA/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet%7C47&Model=Captiva%20Sport%7C21516&Year=2014%7C2014&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=20&vehicleType=automotive) That's just an educated guess. GM radios and theft deterrent systems are a pain in the ass. I've had customers come in who've tried to install their own aftermarket radios and it's made anything from the onstar lady's voice loop constantly to their seat motors move without warning.