Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement engine mounts

Cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free, but pointless without a high-flow air filter)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($41 from Amazon)
  
• add an FSWERKS polyurethane insert to the rear motor mount ($13 from Amazon)
  
• lunchbox delete (ie. remove the muffler, costs about $20-25 to extend and redirect the exhaust pipe)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and possibly do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending about $80. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune (comes with an SCT X4 tuner, which is why it's so expensive). It will improve performance; whether or not that improvement is worth the money is up to you. It might also help with shudder if you have it (and if you don't yet, you will, so get ready).

Its definitely the right upper engine mount. You may be able to do it yourself but you'll need a floor jack and some long sockets. It's a pretty cheap repair though. I had mine done about 6 months ago. There is a TSB about this issue.

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/299936-2008-2011-2010-engine-mount-no-tsb-applies.html

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-50820-SNA-P01-Mounting-Assembly/dp/B00BFDHHFC/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl08_-U63n8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7JVTX2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_GDKdBbFT0RCPB

This is what you're looking for. Replaced them on my 03 a while back. If you can purchase them individually for less go for it. They're very easy to swap if you have patience and time for it. If not just pay a shop to do it, shouldn't take them more than an hour for all four.

Dumb question, is the one you linked to is a "Fr'instance, this brand" and not the actual one recommended for my car? The one that I pulled up for mine is a DEA A6495. Or did they change the design to something that works better for later model years that can be installed in mine?

What did you do for this mount (link provided for refrence)? And did you get the street or race versions of your vt mounts?

https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-Complete-Transmission-1998-2006-Volkswagen/dp/B075TDQTQ8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542164349&sr=8-4&keywords=volkswagen+motor+mount

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-YL5Z-6038-CA-INSULATOR-ASY-ENGI/dp/B000NUCSS4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=YL5Z6038CA&qid=1555438623&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Motor-PM2853-Front-Engine/dp/B07GDXTBQG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=YL5Z6038CB&qid=1555438670&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Yes sorry, the aftermarket to meet OEM Specification, I bought these

They last only 8 months, no hard driving.

It's not technically a recall, more like a known bad part. You can call the dealer and see if its covered under the 50k warranty. Otherwise you can get and replace it yourself. It's about $55 https://www.amazon.com/2013-2014-Ford-UPDATED-Engine-Transmission/dp/B0182W7BP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482523955&sr=8-2&keywords=focus+st+motor+mount

Cougar/Contour expert here.

thats the rear roll restrictor in the first picture, and the passenger side engine mount in the 2nd.

It isn't particularly common for the passenger side mount to fail on the Cougar/Contour, unless its leaking fluid than its probably fine. The roll restrictor is more than likely your issue if the engine is rocking back and fourth profusely.

Heres your rear roll restrictor

Passenger engine mount

Engine mount:

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-3103-Engine-Mount/dp/B003AVO41M

Here's a picture of another one after failing:

http://img.ffocus-help.ru/images_ffocus/help/00000/Dqy1HKOPirI.jpg

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Edit: as u/Wanni25 already said

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