(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best bike tires

Eh a rack/pannier is literally only useful if your only mode of transportation to the grocery store is by bike. With everything being electronic these days, its unlikely that someone would need to carry a briefcase of something. Anything you could possible want at work could be put in a messenger bag like a computer, lunchbox and a change of clothes.

The primary reason I say this, is because panniers aren't very secure, you can take a messenger bag with you everywhere.

If your commute requires a lot of gear transported or is so long a messenger bag would hurt your back/neck. Then panniers are your only option.

Just saying, that you shouldn't rule anything out, just because it has the option for a rack. Even on long journeys a rack isn't a great solution because your bike will weigh a ton, making the commute much harder and slower.

Look to travel lighter. Honestly your bike choices kind of suck with those two stores only because disc bikes are pretty new on road bikes, despite being a standard on mountain bikes. Road bikes have been pretty stuck up about using v-brakes but in the last few years disc brakes have been making an appearance. I would seriously recommend disc brakes for two reason. Firstly, they are just safer, obviously there is a growing period where you should learn how to keep your pad operational, however being able to stop quickly will literally keep you alive when you are riding in a city. Road bikes typically were designed for the open road of a highway or something, where v-brakes are good enough. V brakes are much worse at stopping in the rain, where discs stop exactly the same. Second, the inclusion of disc brakes gives more clearance at the top of the fork allowing for a much bigger tire size. This is so important, because a bigger tire size means that you will go much further before receiving a flat tire (no one wants to be late for work) Hell the more expensive tires like Schwalbe Marathon Supreme has a lot of users reporting that they've gone years without a flat, and if they did get a flat it was an object that would puncture any tire. On top of that, bigger tires are often faster due to less rolling resistance, obviously the extra 400grams of weight compared to a 25c tire will counteract some of that but, in general it generates less friction because the contact point isn't as long. On top of that, bigger tires can be ran at lower PSI basically giving you a degree of suspension that will make the ride more comfortable, as well as increasing speed since the harder 25c tires bounce more, decreasing speed.

On a road bike with disc brakes you are looking at 32/35c tire widths depending on the fork clearance.

Btw, I personally would choose a dropbar, as flatbars aren't ergonomic for the wrist. However it will be easier to find flatbar hybrids/fitness/commuter bikes with disc brakes at reasonable prices, with maybe tourney gearsets.

Make sure the disc brake doesn't have a ton of negative reviews, but in general most disc brakes will have some negative reviews, because some people don't set them up properly.

Sorry for making your search harder.

Raleigh's Merit 2 is claris with discs for $800. The Spyre disc brakes it comes with tend to be highly regarded.

If you want to support your local bike store, you could bring it into the shop to have them build it and do a bike fit on you, so your dérailleurs/seatpost/brakes get dialed in. Most direct to consumer shipped bikes require tuning on those things, and if you really want you can attempt to do it yourself using youtube videos.

Looks like some sizes on amazon are being sold for $700 which would be great if one of those sizes fit you. You could go to the local store show them that you want to buy a raleigh merit 2, and ask them how much it would cost for them to do a bike fit/help you order the right size, as well as assembling the bike. It looks like the merit 2 comes with 28c tires, so you might want to get that swapped out right away. The Marathon Supremes would probably put you out of budget so these are half the price and seem solid https://www.amazon.com/MICHELIN-Protek-Road-City-Cycle/dp/B016KG496S/ref=sr_1_40?ie=UTF8&qid=1504083159&sr=8-40&keywords=32c%2Btire&th=1&psc=1

Kenda Kwik Trax are also pretty good, but is a little closer to a mountain bike tire.

Remember that you also need to budget for all of the other fixins. The local bike store will probably let you try out different saddles, maybe they will have ones on hand that they can swap for free, or you will need to buy one. You might also need a standing pump, water bottle cages, water bottle, tire repair bag with mini pump (just in case), rack and fender mounts if you go that route, helmet, front and rear lights, 1-2 U locks and a chain lock to secure both wheels/frame, also all of the maintenance that the shop would need to do over the years.

> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?

Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.

Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...

Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.

> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?

The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.

Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.

If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

I noted the use of the word 'paved' in reference to the American River bike trail (which I am unfamiliar with but it sounds more like a skinny paved road than backwoods dirt & rocks with you rolling over debris, downed branches and gravel pits).

If this is correct, and you plan on doing the vast majority of your riding ON pavement, you may find swapping knobbies for slicks does improve your ride quality to a significant degree. (read: it's night and fucking day)

Less rolling resistance = faster bike. Slicks or road friendly tread = better handling characteristics because :more contact with road = better grip, especially in the corners.

All the things that make knobbies great when romping in the dirt and rocks make them dogs on smooth pavement. I was very wary of taking any 90 degree turns at any speed above a brisk walk on knobbies - especially in the wet, you tend to pull on the brake when you get nervous and that's a great way to slip and slide out.

I went with Rubena City Hopper myself after I put 100 miles on my stock MTB knobbies that just sucked on pavement. Seemed like a good bang for buck 50 bucks delivered for 2. (via Amazon)


PS - if you get the 'used -good' ones (likely returns), you get 2 for $42.50 shipped free. They have decent flat protection and reflective strips built into the sidewalls, ride great and wear well.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B008VQ6YSM/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all


Hope this helps.

>Sweet! I was planning on topping out at ~$600. Thoughts on what I could do?

Sure. At that price you could start looking at used Cyclocross bikes or one off Bikes Direct (minor assembly required), or a flat bar road bike style hybrid like a Trek 7.2 or Specialized Sirrus.

This is a bit simplistic but cyclocross bikes are a lot like a road bike that can fit fatter tires. They're pretty popular with commuters for that reason. You can run comfier 32-40mm tires on them and still have room for a fender. The skinniest studded tire is 30mm wide and most road bikes can fit up to a max of 28mm or so, without a fender, which is less than ideal for the winters we have here.

Something like this bike, with the fenders, or this BikesDirect bike with a set of fenders from a local shop, and a pair of these tires in 700x35. If you mostly use roads rather than bike trails or sidewalks then the cheaper version of those tires might be fine. The cheaper version has 2 rows of studs in the center which is fine for riding on flat ice on plowed roads; the extra two rows of studs on the Marathon help with icy ruts like you can find on bike paths.

Well, I’m a bit of a fender fanatic, so that’s what I’d recommend; that, and faster rolling tires, at least if the bike get most of its miles on pavement. My non-winter commuter has Portland Design Works Pancho fenders. They’re a bit more expensive than the ubiquitous Planet Bike Cascadias, but in my opinion, the PDW fenders rattle less, due to the fact that PDW uses thicker stays and full wrap stays. My previous non-winter commuter first had PB fenders, then a lovely set of metal Velo-Orange Zepplins that were destroyed in my last car collision. I replaced the Velos with PDWs on my new build mostly because VO charges shipping to Alaska, whereas the PDWs I was able to pick up at REI. Two years with these fenders and I’m quite pleased with them.

Regarding the tires, if all you ride is pavement, then there’s no reason not to run smooth tires. They’ll give you a faster, smoother ride; plus they grip better in the wet, as you’ll have more rubber in contact with the road. Someone else mentioned Schwalbe Marathons, and you cannot go wrong with these tires; despite their weight, they are surprisingly fast, super puncture resistant, and extremely grippy on wet pavement and asphalt. The only reason that I have Michelin Proteks on my ride and not Marathons is because I couldn’t find the right size Marathons locally, Schwalbe charges shipping to Alaska, the Michelins were available in store, and I wasn’t willing to wait for the next LBS tire order. The Michelins have been great tires, though; two years of three season daily commuting and general city riding, no flats, nice and fast, and cheaper than than Schwalbes. Both are great tires, though, and both have a reflective stripe which, if you keep clean, will also help keep you safe.

There are, but the sidewalls of a RH, tire are WAY more flexible in the sidewall than other tires, so the suspension is far better. Might be worth the price. If your looking for a mid-rage in price...

... I, as well as at least one other redditor, run DMR Supermoto's [Non-Affiliate Amazon Link].

While this review says the loose dirt grip itself isn't great, they ran the tire at WAY too high a pressure (60psi), and I would recommend running them at closer to 45psi. The dirt performance will be better. The sidewalls are thin, but not RH thin. They roll quite fast, and feel more than supple enough on the street and on washboard. I enjoy them quite a bit, and found pretty good value for the money.

If you're below 200lbs, you could get away with running an even lower psi (40'ishpsi).

Are RH tires, better? Probably, they're supple like crazy, but I've had a great time with the Supermoto tires on my 90's resto-mod adventure bike.

I also hear good things about the Maxxis DTH, but can't speak to that from personal experience.

The bike started life as a 2012 Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, which came with some good components already. SRAM Rival partial group,
FSA crankset, and Mavic Aksium Race wheels. I've had good luck with this bike and it's got almost 2k miles on it, so I kept most of it, but not all.

Once I decided to make it my commuter bike, I started adding things.

For lights I picked up the Cygolite Hot shot rear light and use one of my MTB lights if needed for the front, a
Chinese knock-off CREE XM-L2 front light

For tires I went with the Panaracer RiBMo 700x32c based on feedback from users on here.

You can't go wrong with a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Ortlieb Back Roller Classics.


I wanted some extra gearing for those climbs along the way, so I went with the SRAM FORCE Rear Derailleur so I could run a SRAM PG-1050 11-32 Cassette.

Of course, I needed a new KMC X10SL chain for the new gear combo.

I picked up a new road bike and pulled the Ritchey Pro Streem Saddle and Ritchey Pro Biomax bars off of that bike and used them on my commuter, along with some new Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm bar tape and some Soma Road Flares for added visibility.

For a little less weight and possible shock absorbtion, I threw in a Chinese knock off carbon seat post.

I also wanted something besides my regular riding shoes, so I opted for the Shimano Click'R PD-T700 pedals and
Shimano SH-CT40 Cycling Shoes
, which I love and highly recommend.

I also needed to adjust the fit so I picked up a Kalloy Uno 6 90mm stem because I've had great luck with them on other bikes.

And for added safety, I picked up two rolls of 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape in white and black, and added white stripes to the white frame and black stripes to the rims and the back of my helmet.

>...am I better off getting a cheap used road bike to see if I like it...?

​

Honestly, it sounds like you and I are coming from the exact same place. So I'm going to answer this with a conditional yes. That condition is this: I may be biased. I say that because that's what I did and I'm VERY happy with it. Now, I truly do prefer my 37 yo 10-speed over my hybrid any day of the week... but I pretty much only ride on paved roads. I currently ride on these tires but I used to ride on these, which worked well for local hardpack trails and nearby greenways. So it doesn't have to be all or nothing.

​

I checked out the Rochester Criagslist (since you linked to it, I assume that's you area) for some older road bikes, and there are quite a few available, but many of them are $200+. Occasionally you can find one like this one for $20. That's cheap enough that you can get a new seat (the originals were like medieval torture devices), pedals (I like these), brake levers, cables, chain, etc. all for under ~$100. (Of course, I also would do my own servicing of the bottom bracket, which saves the cost of an LBS doing it.)

Then I'd give it two weeks' worth of riding to see how it feels. If you don't like it, then you're out $100 and you post the upgraded and improved bike back on Craigslist for $200-300 like most people seem to. Then turn those profits into upgrades for your hybrid.

If you decide to keep the hybrid, but are uncomfortable with drop bars, you may want to consider butterfly bars. If I hadn't made the move to a road bike, I would have done this with my hybrid just to have more hand position options.

Some are pretty expensive (think $70-80 for a pair) but you really don't need those.

I've been running CST Classic Otis's for about a year and a half now and I haven't had a single problem with them.

They're kinda heavy but they've been pretty tough (not a single flat with them!) and they have a reflective sidewall which is awesome to have.

I bought them with a pretty hefty discount (got the pair for $35USD) and I've been super happy with them.

You can also check out Schwalbe's Marathons, but those are a bit more expensive.

Any good bike store will be able to size you right... I have a 23" frame. You probably want disk brakes. You don't want full suspension for a commuter bike. Go with front suspension that you can lock. You will probably always have it locked because well...Commuter bike... Seriously consider a single speed, because, every time you stand on your pedals to pick up speed to cross the street quickly or whatever, you as a big man, are putting a TON of force on the gears, which as I have learned (the hard way)....(twice)...Will bend the gears unless your in a really low gear. A new set of gears, cost about a fourth the price of a decent bike. You'll want a different seat, those super light saddles that come with your bike are NOT made for you, you want something with gel or foam (you don't want just a gel cover those slide and are generally a pain) get something like this. For reference this is my bike...I have the 2011 model which is only a different color. I have since put on a different saddle, (one from an older bike) swapped out the brakes and have bought a second set of tires for the summer months. I really enjoy the 5 mile ride to and from work everyday. IF you get an ss (single speed) you legs will hurt for the first month. But after that you'll have SUPER calves and youll be passing everyone with their lazy gears...=) Dont be afraid to ask any questions. Hope this helps.

My sister has a 1986 Men's Schwinn World Tourist, it used to be my boyfriend's.

It can't keep up with my road bike because of the upright handlebars and the cushioned seat, which has a suspension to it and it sort of wobbles back and forth as you pedal. It's soooo comfortable though. I think it's a great commuter because it has wider tires and it can definitely take a beating.

Here is a collection of the catalogs for the World Tourists, ordered by year they came out.

This tire
and this tire fit the rims perfectly.

There are no quick releases on this bike, so be prepared to invest in a few new tools if you don't already have them.

You can get a more mix use tire instead of the stock knobby MTB tires. You wouldn't be able to do anything too wild with them but you would still be able to handle dirt/gravel and have an easier time on pavement.

Edit* 90% sure my buddy has these. He likes them for the pavement and said there was a noticeable difference between his knobby ones. Reviews suggest they are good also for hard packed dirt and gravel

I did want them, I love the look. I was pretty set on the Schwalbe tires though because there are tons of thorns and whatnot where I live. I wanted the most durable tires that I could get.

Most of things still holds true. You need to make sure but I think you have a 1 1/8" straight fork, which is most standard.
A rigid semi carbon fork 1 1/8", if you get one from Nashbar on 20% off day is about $100. Your LBS should be able to install in less than 30 minutes. I did just that for my commuter. Cutting the steering tube, take the stem off, install a star nut, remove the disk brakes, and reverse the process. I don't know how much your LBS charges but it's probably around $40-80. (Some LBS surchanges for the component that is brought.)

Also, mtb tires tend to be heavy. I understand you ride on the unpaved road, but try something like Panaracer RiBMo 26x1.5 or Conti's Touring tires.
You may be able to save 1lb. But, this 1lb is very different from the weight of bike. It will ride much quicker because the rolling weight really affect how quick you can speed up, and stop.

Vuelta does have a 26" disc wheelset @ $99 and the weight is 2184g. If you buy expensive ones, you can get down to 1700g range which is another 1lb, but it would cost more than the bike.
You can weigh yours by removing the wheel, just front is fine, and remove the skewer, tire, tube and put it on a kitchen scale or postage scale. If Vuelta is lighter than the one you have, you may consider replacing the wheelset. But, I suspect you can barely save 0.5lb if at all, and not worth it.

OK. We've got similar trails too. I used to use tire linings like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026R9DLM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000ENSRQW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0DJ8GJ14WC5QWJGNHJSD

Never had a flat from a thorn after that. I had a better/lighter Kevlar one back then and not sure if this particular one is as good though. I can't find the one I used. Tubeless with sealant, even ghetto setup, won't get flat from thorns either. You might not even need sealant if you have a UST setup.

You want puncture resistant tires really. What tires do you have now? Schwalbe Marathon are great for this, they cost about $38 apiece: https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-Tire/dp/B004YIC0YI

Actually, it's usually the rear wheel that gets punctured more often, so you'd want the more flat-resistant tire in the back.

You might also look into the Schwalbe Marathon. Gatorskins are more for road bikes, the Marathon might be better since it sounds like you go offroad occasionally. And they're about $33, so closer to your budget.

Thanks.

While I've got you, what's the difference between these two tires.

wire bead

other?

What does "wire bead" mean and why do/don't I want it?

Shelton Brown was speaking in terms of commuting and people that put major miles on their bike as primary transportation. i.e., will the tire still work? The technical answer is yes, but for my money I would never run a tire that had lost enough flexibility to crack. It's not conforming to the surface of the trail anymore and the contact patch is smaller.

The real world answer is replace the tire when it is no longer capable of doing the job...even if it still "looks good". Plenty of brands of tires go off long before they look worn out. From the looks of your picture, it is a pretty old MTB with off brand tires that probably doesn't see any real trail duty. In that case, no worries. However if you just commute on it or ride greenways, putting a set of new soft city slicks on your bike won't set you back much and will make riding it worlds better.
Like these
or these

I've got these (26x1.75) on my 3700, and it's a comfortable but fast ride.

Also on Amazon.

My next guess would be the liner that keeps your tube from rubbing against the inside of the spokes is missing or out of place. I can never seem to get mine to stay put when I have to change tubes, so I've just been using heavy duty electrical tape, and it seems to work fine.

Another issue might be that something has gotten embedded into the tire that sticks through just enough to poke the tube. If that's the case, you need to replace both the tire and the tube.

As a side note, I personally prefer to use heavy duty inner tubes since they are harder to puncture. That said, when I bike it is almost exclusively mtn. biking and it never hurts to have extra strong equipment when mtn. biking. I've also heard that tires with kevlar bands in them are a lot harder to puncture. I haven't tried them myself, so I cannot say one way or the other. There are also tire liners, but I don't know anybody who has tried them.

I get one a year on average. That’s 120km a week on average, commuting into central london daily.

Apparently the last tyre I bought wasthis one think in a size 32.

I also bought this one

Different tyres for different wheels. Both have been good

Correct tyre pressure a key. Check it every Monday.

I used these for a couple years and they were ok on everything but pure ice.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kenda-K161-KrossCyclo-27x1-Black/dp/B000A0KZ1O

The one on that bike is a cheap CST with a kevlar-reinforced belt (this is not the same as kevlar bead, which means the tire doesn't have a metal wire bead so it folds flatter for storage, but does nothing to make the tire puncture resistant). Schwalbe also has several in their Marathon line, Michelin has a few City Bike tires, and a few other companies have stepped up too. (If you're a "go big or go home" person, Schwalbe's Big Apple is the concept taken to its logical "check for fork clearance" extreme.)

~47mm outside the rim, but they are getting bald.
Schwalbe Big Apples are available in 700x48 both black and creme: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Schwalbe-Apple-29er-Slick-Bicycle/dp/B007TSMZFE
The 700x45 Marathon Plus is another option: http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Bicycle-Black-Beaded/dp/B00277GFDU

Other contender tires:

• Michelin Country Rock
  
• Schwalbe Crazy Bob