Reddit mentions: The best cabinet & furniture door catchers

This is a xpost from the r/homelab subreddit. I posted there yesterday and was recommended to post here as well.

This is a server rack I built myself. I got my inspiration from this guide on building your own server rack: DIY Server Rack

Specifications are as follows:

18U Server Rack Standard 19” rack width (between the rails) 24 inch depth and about 23” wide.

From top down for components:

• Air Infinity Cloud Plate T7 Exhaust Rack Mount Fan Rack Mount Fan Exhaust
  
• Unifi USG with 1U rack plate and shelf (Unifi cloud key on the right side of this) USG Rack Mount
  
• 24 Port Patch Panel with Cat6 inserts
  
• Unifi 24 Port 250W managed switch
  
• Synology DS918+ with 4U hinged blank and a hole I cut myself to facilitate the opening of the NAS(not seen is my Wink Hub to the left of the NAS on the same shelf) 4U Hinged Blank
  
• 6U of blank space for future upgrades
  
• Air Infinity Cloud Plate T7 Intake Rack Mount Fan Rack Mount Fan Intake
  
• Panamax m4315 Pro
  
  I don’t have a UPS yet. That will be purchased soon.
  
  My goal with this rack was to enclose everything in as best as I could while still maintaining easy access for service. I’ve got a total of 4 side panels with acrylic windows in each one that I attached with magnetic cabinet latches rated at 15 lbs a piece. They hold really nicely without making it impossible to pull any one of the panels off. (I used 4 for each panel. cabinet latches
  
  For the top I made this similarly to the side panels with oak boards. I mitered each board together with a Kreg jig and wood glue. For the middle, I used oak plywood at 3/4” thick. Cut it to size till it fit perfectly in the oak picture frame I created. I also used cabinet latches for this so I could easily pull it off and access the top of the rack.
  
  I’m most definitely not an expert wood worker. This is by far the most complicated cuts and assembly from raw wood I’ve ever done. (It’s not perfect, but I feel like I’ve learned a lot while building it)
  
  I’ve got 6U of open space in the back side of the rack that I will fill in soon for a completely enclosed rack.
  
  Lastly I used a 24 port patch panel in the rear and a 1U rack blank with a custom cut hole for a IEC power pass through. I wanted this rack very easy to disconnect from the wall outlets and easy to reconnect to the wall outlets without dangling cords. So the most complicated wire management is inside the rack.
  
  The tools I used to build this are as follows:
  
  
• Table Saw
  
• Miter Saw
  
• Circular Saw
  
• Circular Saw Track
  
• Kreg Jig
  
• Cordless Drill and Impact Driver
  
• Orbital Sander
  
• Belt Sander
  
• Lint Free Rags for Staining

I did this - not with reflectix but with blackout curtains. Just cut the curtain to fit each of my windows and I use some industrial strength magnets on the frame to hold them up. I didn't sew them into the fabric, though you easily could by just measuring extra and folding it down over the magnet and sewing around it to make a little pocket. I just have a magnet in each of the corners, and take the top 2 off and let the curtain hang down. They don't get in the way, and I don't have to worry about messing around with it too much - they hang right back up super easy! The magnets I'm using - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYFO7KM

Bonus: Fan controller can look pretty fucking awesome. [And they have buttons to push and turn.] (http://www.amazon.de/Akasa-AK-FC-08BKV2-L%C3%BCfter-Controller-6-L%C3%BCfter-schwarz/dp/B0098WEQ6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407167923&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+controller) [or go all digital if that's your thing.] (http://www.amazon.de/Aerocool-X-Vision-interne-L%C3%BCftersteuerungen-Zoll/dp/B004YINZQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407167923&sr=8-2&keywords=fan+controller)

I was thinking about what you said last night while I was in my jeep and thought that it could be mounted onto a set of drawer-slides so that the whole thing could be slid forward (towards you) so the soft top levers could be accessed easier. And slid all the way back in place.

The drawer slides would be held in place on the top of the rollbars by simple black zipties. Just need to figure out how to keep the console in place at the front. Maybe add something like this. Or even an elbow latch like this between the center of the console (or one on each end) and the top of the windshield frame.

Try various types of ball and socket latches. I would screw a piece of wood to several places up the edge of the door and matching wood on the door jam and mount three of four ball socket latches and see if those are strong enough to keep the cat from opening it.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/southco-marine--adjustable-ball-catch--15578602?recordNum=25

There are cheaper ones with plastic balls that are smaller.

If you are using a carabiner now. check out elbow latches and other kinds of marine or livestock latches, they will be more secure than a carabiner. Maybe a few elbow latches? Double roller catches would probably be too hard for a cat to open. Or a series of stronger flatter magnetic catches:

https://www.amazon.com/JQK-Stainless-Ultrathin-Furniture-HCC200-P2/dp/B07JBRJXDY/ref=lp_686948011_1_12?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1568531115&sr=1-12

JQK Magnetic Door Catch, Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4MZC3R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I love this latch! It’s pitbull proof :)

I use these on all my drawers and cabinets: https://www.amazon.com/Alise-CA250-4P-Cabinet-2-7-Inch-0-47-Inch4/dp/B076P7D3X1/

They work great as long as you are careful to mount them precisely and adjust the preload screw.

I think it's part of a magnetic latch for a cabinet. Check your desks, entertainment centers, filing cabinets, etc...

Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Catch-Magnetic-Profile-Strong/dp/B0025PKMEM

http://www.sugatsune.com/products/productdetails.cfm?catid=3&subcatid=1&productid=MC-YN001P

You can also replace the magnet latches with physical latches. It may help to hold them closed a bit tighter.

Flush mounted, yes. But if you have a large gap under your door, these don't work.

https://www.amazon.com/Deltana-MDHF25U10B-2-5-Inch-Diameter-Magnetic/dp/B004528CMW

get some cheap slides(soft close will keep the panting from slamming):

https://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-941605-Soft-Close-Bearing-16-Inch/dp/B00PHL3RD4/

and some drawer magnets:

https://www.amazon.com/Susgatsune-Smc159-Ultra-Magnetic-Catch/dp/B0025PKMEM


Attach the slides to the wall and painting, put magnets on the top of the compartment and then put metal tabs at the bottom of the painting that sticks out to contact the magnet. (maybe mount the plates to the top of the bottom of the frame)

I used these magnetic catches on all my cabinets and it solved the problem effectively.

Looks like it once used a ball latch. Those are usually spring-tension hardware pieces. Might be hard to find the right size, and hard to replace if you did find.

Alternative ideas in case someone is not able to help: https://www.amazon.com/Jiayi-Magnetic-Stainless-Cupboard-Hardware/dp/B07P729J79?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7174-Mobile-Double/dp/B00FPKYYPC/ref=sr_1_5

Master Magnetics, packaging

Decided to order these, will let you know how I get on

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07KX14HL2?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

These

It's a strike ball screw for a cabinet closure. Its a friction closure, and adjusts depending how deep you thread it into the cabinet door.Best modern comparison, is a "Roller cabinet catch

"https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7079-Mobile-Friction/dp/B00FPKYTCA

No, it's not a camera. It's a magnetic door catch.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Touch-Push-Latch-Black/dp/B07DNJNDGV