Reddit mentions: The best camera lens hoods

Get one now before they ship with the restrictive firmware that is in beta (not required to upgrade but if it ships with it you might not be able to downgrade).

The Phantom 3 Advance is the best deal. $799 on Amazon. Save money over the Pro and use it on batteries and this. With that controller mod the limiting factor on how far you can go is the battery. One guy has gone over 6 miles away.

This to protect your gimbal if you land on rocks or anything.

This to protect your camera when not in use (acts as a gimbal lock) and optional lens hood while flying to control flares.

This to hook onto your controller to alleviate the weight during long flying sessions.

This to make viewing your screen outdoors a lot easier when flying instrument only

This to charge the multiple batteries you were able to afford since you went with the advanced over the pro model.

And finally this to carry it all in.

I enjoy mine a lot, but make sure you are responsible. It is a tool, not a toy so treat it like one. I learned that the hard way when I dumped my first one into the lake. If you want to fly for fun, buy a cheaper quad for dicking around inside or out and save the Phantom for more serious tasks. Fly safe and enjoy!

Hey there!

By fixed focal lengths as opposed to variable focal lengths, I can only assume you're talking about prime lenses (e.g. 50mm F1.2) vs zoom lenses (e.g. 35-70 F3.5)...

However, fear not as one of the awesome things about the MFT mount is that it can take a lens with practically any mount, as long as a provided MFT adapter/speedbooster is used.

Now here's where it gets a bit tricky. Some lenses (mostly older and cine versions) have a manual ring just like zoom or focus, but for aperture (cine lenses have a smooth aperture ring while vintage/still lenses have a click for each available F-stop). If your lenses do NOT have a physical aperture ring, then you will need a device with the capabilities of changing that lens' aperture like this, not including a power source for it.

Now I come from the BMCC crowd, so I have a dumb (no electronics) MFT mount on my camera while the BMPCC has an active MFT mount, so I'm not sure how that works with adapters/speedboosters.

What I personally recommend (if budget allows) is to get the Tokina 11-16 F2.8 and the Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 both for Nikon as well as a normal Nikon-MFT adapter which controls the aperture for you so no sweat there...

If that's a bit expensive, then look into vintage M42-mount lenses on eBay as well as a m42-MFT adapter, and you'll be well on your way with some very filmic looking creamy lenses that match BM cameras really well..

Also, check out www.bmcuser.com as it's a great community of brutally honest, and very intelligent BM owners and operators from the pocket cam to the URSA. If you peek at the forums long enough I'm sure you'll find more than you need to know about lenses for the BMPCC.

Good luck!

That's almost half the price, the Oly is a great deal for $180 IMO. I'd go for it tbh, but the subtleties might sway you one way or the other depending on what you'll use it for... So into the weeds we go...

The Oly has some field curvature which could actually contribute to what some describe as character but also seems to rob it of sharpness on the edges, when you're focusing on the middle of the frame anyway (if your subject is on the edge and you focus there it wouldn't be an issue).

The Oly may also filters a bit more UV since Oly is aware that they use a weaker on-sensor UV filter in their bodies, that may both contribute to less CA and/or pair better with Oly bodies. (wouldn't make a difference one way or another on a Pana body) It could also contribute a little to color rendering but it's kinda moot if you shoot RAW.

The Pana has little to no field curvature and OIS, if you're using it for portraits I don't think either of those elements really matter. Your frame is usually gonna be defocused around your subject anyway and you'd need to keep shutter speed up to account for subject movement. The OIS does come in handy for video if you were to use it on an IBIS-less body (I had a GM1 when I got it and now have a GX850).

I also like that it focuses much closer, the Pana that is, but that doesn't really matter for portraits either unless you're taking portraits of bugs, heh. It does make it a little more versatile, the Sigma 60/2.8 and the upcoming 56/1.4 also focus closer than the 45/1.8 tho not as close as the 42.5/1.7, which still yields the most magnification.

The CameraLabs review of the 42.5 compares them heads up and it touches on some of this, it doesn't explain the field curvature (tho LensRentals' has a good blog post on that) but notices the effect on edge sharpness (I still think Gordon had a less than optimal sample tho, but he said he tried several).

There's a few things I've been meaning to check out myself as far as CA on point light sources and bokeh, which might favor the 45/1.8, just haven't gotten around to it... The Pana has some cat's eye bokeh on the edges characteristic of a few Pana lenses.

I think the Oly is more round throughout. Honestly they're both great, you have to be pretty anal to notice most of these things (outside the two obvious pluses to the Pana which might not matter at all for what many will use it).

The Panasonic comes with a lens pouch and a hood too, so there's that. The Oly is part of an old series of Oly lenses (anything launched pre-25/1.8) that didn't come with those. I like this screw in metal hood on either just cause of how it looks and how compact it is, tho the OEM hoods are reversible (you also gotta take off a cosmetic decor ring on either to use them, bleh).

If you were gonna use it for something like landscapes or even copy work, the Pana has a clear edge in having less field curvature... I tend to use zooms for that myself but YMMV.

Edit: Whoa, that got long, hopefully it's more useful than hopelessly confusing. :s

Edit #2: Even more insignificant than everything else, I think the Oly is sold in black and silver whereas the Pana might only be sold in black in the US IIRC... I bought mine from Japan cause it was a little cheaper when it came out or something (in silver if you must know, my Oly as black, heh).

No, don't buy a filter pack. They are garbage when they come packaged together, and you don't need all of them.

Yes, the plastic of hoods is all similar, but you want one shaped correctly for your lens so that it doesn't hang into your image. You don't have to get the official Nikon one, but look for a knock-off on Ebay, Amazon, or elsewhere, like this one for $10:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046141OA

You don't need a clear filter, but it's up to you to decide whether you want one. A good one won't completely destroy your image, but it may increase reflections and glare in some lighting conditions. A good brand is B+W. I like the same brand for a CPL filter, but it's not cheap. I wouldn't get the CPL or any ND filters until you need them. For ND filters, just get one dark one if you know you want long exposures instead of multiple darknesses--I would get a 10-stop (3.0 density) for daytime. If you think you need more than one, I would get a 6-stop (1.8 density) as a lighter one or perhaps for nighttime shots.

> Will a full size SD card make any difference, do I need one?

I don't think so, as long as your adapter doesn't change its size or speed and as long as there is no risk of them separating.

Do you need any extra batteries? Do you have a shoulder strap and/or wrist strap? Good card readers? Good software?

Enjoy!

Generally speaking, any SD card will work. However, if it's too slow, you might not be able to record video for very long, and writing images to the card might take longer.

That said, the T6 isn't a particularly demanding camera for SD cards. A card like this won't limit the camera in any way, and is quite affordable.

You might also want to pick up a few accessories. I personally would suggest getting a lens hood. They help prevent flare, and can even slightly protect your lens against impacts from the front. There's no reason to buy the official ones, though. Here's a third party one that will work on your lens, and is way cheaper than the Canon one.

You might also want a tripod, so you can play around with long exposures and low light shooting. It doesn't really make sense for you to buy anything super fancy at this point. I've heard good things about the Amazon Basics one, and it's less than $20.

Beyond that, you might want a camera bag. I don't really know much about what is out there right now, but there should be plenty of options. It might be a good idea to go to your local electronics store and try out a few, since you want to make sure that it's comfortable.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and good luck shooting!

Accessories I had for my X100T when I owned one:

• Leica M strap (would probably get a different one, but it was very minimal)
  
  
• JJC lens hood of this style; maintains the original lens diameter so the lens cap still fits on it
  
  
• Cheapo thumbgrip (the lensmate one is the nicest and matches colors the best, but it's also very expensive for a thumbgrip)
  
  
• Lensmate soft shutter release. Makes it much easier for me to take photos. Plus, they have neat designs.
  
  Other than that, lots of batteries, memory cards, and trips!

Free Stuff:

• Use Capture One Express for raw processing; its free.
  
• Use DaVinci Resolve for video editing; its free.
  
• Be able to shoot videos longer than 30 minutes.
  
  Low Cost (Under $30):
  
  
• Have at least one or two spare batteries.
  
• Remote triggers are nice; long range ones are even better.
  
• Mini Tripods are better than no tripod.
  
• Get a hot shoe cover (with a bubble).
  
• Almost always shoot with your lens hood on.
  
• Get the timelapse app.
  
• These flash bounce cards are magic.
  
  Expensive:
  
  
• Shoot RAW and get a big SD card.
  
• The sigma 30mm F/1.4 is almost glued on. I use it a lot.
  
• If looking for a flash checkout Flashpoint and the transmitter (rebranded godox). I have 3 of them.
  
• Flash Bender is a great all around flash modifier; knockoffs work pretty well. If you get a big flash you'll want a modifier.
  
  
  Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/SonyAlpha/comments/4zb5zt/what_are_the_things_i_should_know_read_about_my/
  

I don't think number one is a hack... That's an intended feature of the design. Others are great though! I'd love to see a picture of a pez dispenser on the top your camera.

Here's a hack that involves lens hoods though:

If you want to shoot in the rain, but don't have a water resistant body and lens, or want to pay for an expensive waterproof shell, use a plastic bag, a UV filter, and a lens hood.

• Put the UV filter on normally.
  
• Cut a hole at the bottom of the bag that's just the right size for the barrel of your lens to poke out bit (easy with bags that have some elasticity).
  
• Put the hood on over the bag to hold it in place. You don't want to use the filter for that because then the bag will get in front of your lens. The hood will keep it out the way, and prove some coverage against the rain.
  
• Use the camera through the (original) top of the bag.
  
  You can also drill a few holes near the base of the hood to let any water that falls in back out again. Third party hoods are great for this. An OEM hood for my Canon 18-135 kit costs $19, but third party hoods are as cheap as $3.

Two film backs are better than one - you can have the next roll ready to go, or color and b/w, or slow and fast film.

A lens hood is definitely worth it. You can get a perfectly good plastic knockoff for $20 if you don't want to shell out for the Hasselblad metal hood. Make sure you get the one that's right for your lens - diameter of C and CF lenses is different. The Fotodiox lens caps are also much cheaper.

I think others have mentioned all of the following, but here’s my X100T setup. The thumb grip is a must-have since it makes holding the camera so much easier and more secure. The JCC lens hood is great, and combined with a clear filter means I don’t ever have to worry about a lens cap. The soft release button is nice and adds a bit of flair. And finally, I prefer a wrist strap for this camera, so I made my own (instructions linked below).

https://imgur.com/gallery/bBrfC

• JCC Lens Hood (link)
  
• B&W Clear UV Haze Filter (link)
  
• Lensmate Thumb Grip (link)
  
• Red Soft Release Button (link)
  
• DIY Paracord Wrist Strap (instructions)

Alright, so silly question, but can they work together or can I only use on or the other?

I'm particularly interested in getting one for my 50mm 1.8 lens. Amazon's canon brand sells for $29 for the lens hood. Is that worth the price?
The 50mm lens I have is the plastic variety, I've read good reviews about this cheaper version, because it's rubber where as the canon version is plastic.
http://www.amazon.com/52mm-rubber-Lens-Hood-Digital/dp/B003UNFOVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396896979&sr=8-5&keywords=lens+hood+canon+50mm+1.8
Thoughts?

Edit: added a question

Best recommendation i have is to use a rubber lens hood like this. You can push the lens hood against the window and seal out any interior light from the cabin, plus it can help stabilize the camera for longer exposures. Great cheap addition to any kit.

It also comes in really handy if you are shooting photos of an aquarium (or through some other kind of glass), since you can still use a flash and the reflection of the flash on the window is sealed out by the rubber lens hood.

*edit for the broken link

Sounds like you got bundle hoods which are junk. Each lens generally has its own uniquely-designed hood with a designated number-letter combination that indicates which hood needs to be paired with it for maximum benefit. So for example, if I own an EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens, I look at this chart, find my lens, and find that it requires the EW-63C petal hood. I wouldn't use it on any other lens, as it'll potentially cause vignette problems like you're seeing.

The hoods also generally attach to the lens using a bayonet mount system, not screw-on. This is to prevent the filter issues that you're experiencing.

You don't necessarily need to buy the Canon-branded ones, especially for less-expensive lenses, but I find that they hold up better than 3rd party ones. Just my personal experience.

Lens hood question!

I have an EF-S 55-250m, 18-55mm, and a nifty fifty. I want to buy a lens hood as I sometimes do have glare issues with my lenses. I wanted to buy the EW-73B but it was too wide for my EF-S lenses.

What is a good petal lens for ~50mm to 250mm focal ranges for EF-S lenses? I don't want to cheap out too much, and am hoping for some firmly attached petal-shaped lens hood.

This is the one that I use. It works great, and it looks really nice as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WQTDT6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_SQ5wDbZJXVEXJ

I would love to have this or this HOME SWEET HOME

Just thought I would update with what I found and plan on getting: https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Reversible-Lens-Hood-Kit-for-Sony-E-PZ-16-50mm-F3-5-5-6-OSS-E-mount-Power-Zoom-Lens-Reversible-Tulip-Flower-Hood-w-Cap-f-Sony-Kit-Lenses/dp/B00QR48GZE/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

Hopefully anyone interested in the future will find this post, thanks for the responses guys very helpful!

It is designed and recommended to reuse. I just got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SLYAO2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 It works much better and is easier to deal with. Important that you don't start up the aircraft until after any lock is removed or the gimbal will try and move.

You will need to check your measurements by lens but I love this guy for my 27. Been meaning to get it for my 35 f2.

OP/TECH USA Hood Hat - Medium (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009R9BJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JHKQBb14GAWDF

Here’s what I ended up getting. I’m pretty pleased:

Hood: https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-APO-Summicron-M-Summicron-R-Summilux-R-Elmarit-R/dp/B076D6GLWF/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image

Cap: https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Square-Metal-Cover-Specific/dp/B077KNHTPC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image

Filter: https://www.amazon.com/55mm-XS-Pro-Clear-Multi-Resistant-Coating/dp/B004OVE17E/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_image

A good full camera strap or wrist strap

I’d also recommend some Soft Release Buttons from eBay

Lensmate Thumb Grip

JJC Lens Hood

Haven't tried one yet but have been looking a lot at things like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Hooshion-Controller-Sunshade-Smartphone-Accessories/dp/B01N2Y92B2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500211190&sr=8-3&keywords=mavic+sun+hood

I always use a lens hood, both to improve contrast and to provide some extra protection for the front element. For the Panasonic, I use this lens hood from JJC: https://www.amazon.com/JJC-LH-46GFII-Metal-Panasonic-Lumix/dp/B00L4KR1ES. For the Oly, I use this metal one from Fotasy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0061GS1OO

There's this one, but I don't know, given its size, if it'd work as well as a larger hood.

Anyone have thoughts?

The Canon EW-63C appears to be the correct one. Would recommend double-checking to confirm that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2Y92B2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501997581&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Hooshion+Remote+Controller+Phone+Monitor+Sun+hood+Sunshade+Cover+Hood+Smartphone+Tablet+iPad+Sun+Shade+for+DJI+MAVIC+PRO+Inspire+%2F+PHANTOM+3+4+M600+OSMO+Accessories+%28%3C+128mm%2C+Black%29&dpPl=1&dpID=41E0KB32YIL&ref=plSrch

I use this one and it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR48GZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rdDtxbR2WMDD8

this is the hood

A lens hood would be nice

Bea, go to sleep.