Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video mono amplifiers

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

This amp performed really well on the amp dyno. It a Chinese board, a lot of people don't like messing with Chinese but I feel like I could give this amp a choice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLL68C/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378079&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundstream+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=31pytKGMJsL&ref=plSrch
This amp is a Korean board which is typically the more reliable and reputable option. Skar has had customer service issues in the past, but it's in the distant past and I don't really think they issues are relevant anymore. Worth noting this amp did a little underrated on the amp dyno but it will be plenty for your subs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKE7APU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378238&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Skar+audio+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41IfkL4-AuL&ref=plSrch
A lot of people are recommending this amp, it's worth noting there is no subsonic filter. Idk where it's board is from, seems Chinese but I could be wrong. Im sure it's a good amp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378383&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pioneer+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51YozvhmIYL&ref=plSrch
This amp is also recommended regularly on here. It is a Chinese board, actually it is the same board as the soundstream amp. I recommended up top. This amp seems solid and people. Like it. Great price point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KW10ES/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378510&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ppi+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41xpN3VUPGL&ref=plSrch


The Sundown amp that they priced you is a great amp, better than all of these, but for me bot worth the price difference. These all do plenty of power for your subs, and some you might even have to back off a tiny bit. If you want a warranty, you don't want to get it off amazon. Find them online from certified dealers. I know for the Skar amp you can buy it just as cheap right from the Skar Internet site. The other can be found on down 4 sound or woofers ect

I'm not sure if Frys sells it or not but I'd say to go with the BOSS R1100M amp. This subreddit will disapprove of it but it's $55 and will do what you want it to. Here it is on Amazon. I don't think you can do any better in that price range. Be careful not to blow the sub you get with it though. (If you get something rated lower) If you go with the pioneer, you're looking at $110 + $55 + $15 for wiring. Grand total of $180 for your subwoofer. You still have 120-170 left for a head unit so you should be able to get something nice. I would just try to save as much as I can on the stereo though & just put the money towards another mod/maintenance on your car. I'm guessing your plan is to just have your passenger to just put their feet on top of the subwoofer box? This could be risky (damaging it) but you don't know until you try it.

Here's another option for a compact sub if you want to save more money. I've heard good things about skar audio so maybe it's worth a try.

Skar audio sub 12" 2ohm

It's also 2ohm vs 4 on the pioneer so it'll be more efficient. There's a 10" version if you prefer that for $10 less.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

600 watt RMS amplifiers aren't as common, so they're usually a bit more expensive. The sweet spot for amplifiers in term of prices is 500 watts RMS (for entry level systems), so you'll be able to use your system at its loudest without worrying about frying your subwoofers, but your amplifier will run hot, since it will be at full power most of the time. Usually reputable amplifiers will be able to handle it though.

Here are two suggestions for 500 watts RMS:

Alpine MRV-M500

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D

Most people would rather overcompensate when it comes to the amplifier, so alternatively you could step down the power of the subs and go with two of these, and run your amplifier much cooler with the gain turned down a bit, which will prolong its life.

Basically it comes down these 3 options:

• Running a cheap amplifier hot while getting the same subs
  
• Running a cheap amplifier cool while changing subs and lowering power slightly
  
• Running an expensive amplifier optimally while getting the same subs
  
  Personally, I had the WXv2 subwoofers for 4 years, and they worked great. Plus, they're meant for sealed enclosures, and the W0v3s are meant for ported enclosures. Ultimately, it's your choice though! Hope I was of some help, and enjoy the system!

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

You can get good deals buying used but it's time consuming and you have to know what you're looking at, so I'd just buy new if you feel inexperienced.

For your sub, you could get something like this https://www.parts-express.com/grs-10sw-4-10-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-482
People here will probably shoot it down but it works and I've used it before. 1 in a sealed box will probably be okay as long as you don't expect roof flexing bass. Adding more or having more complex/big enclosures will be better, but I'm assuming space is a premium. You could build an enclosure that maximizes the space you have.

For power you can use this to run both your sub (bridge one of the channels), and two mids/highs.Soundstream PN4.1000D 1000W 4-Channel Picasso Nano Series Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VH40878/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UMBzCb5P60A42122
This is nice because it is small for your van

Cost of the box depends on what you have, but around 50 bucks for mdf/plywood, glue and screws. If you can't make a box, then I'd look around for a sealed box on Craigslist. Should get them for pretty cheap.

For mids and highs, go to an car audio store and just listen to them. Pick one you like. Go for the coaxial speakers if you want the install to be easy and want to be able to open the doors for tailgating. Should be around 100 bucks.

Wire plus overhead costs around 50 bucks. To make it easy for you, just get a ofc 4gauge amp kit.

For the headunit, go on crunchfield and pick a single din headunit from either Kenwood or Pioneer. For a little over a 100 bucks.

So that should be around 500 bucks.
I'm probably missing some steps but you defienetly can get an audio upgrade for 500 bucks. Just takes a little work. You could alternatively go to an installer and see how much they'd charge.

Also, I assumed that in your van build you are already doing some sound deadening so I didn't add that as a cost.

Edit: if you really want 4 speakers, get something like this amp instead. It's still really small and it's a 5 channel amp Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 640 W 5-Channel Class D digital Car Audio Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G051S7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C.BzCb3ABE8QZ

A pair of these Pioneer Slim Prefab Subs and one Pioneer GM d9601 would cost about $475 with all the install wires.

Alternately a single prefab 12 & Pioneer GM d8601 would run maybe $275 or less with installation wires.

Another option is a prefab sealed box ($20-50) and a shallow woofer like the Sundown or Dayton UM. With a sealed box, I'd recommend two subs. I rock a single 12" Dayton UM in a small sealed and it sounds awesome, but it's not quite loud enough for some songs, and two sealed or a larger ported box would be ideal for a sub like this or the Sundown.

You mentioned $200, not sure what you meant. A good ported box could run over $200, as does a nice woofer. Dayton UM subs are good and under $200, but I'd recommend a ported box or TWO sealed boxes, plus the 12" models are sold out 'til May.

Have you looked into alpine type r's? You can pick up a 12 for around 150.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK/ref=sr_1_1?s

That's a D4 but you can pickup a D2 as well. Have you thought about that route or not? Or are you waiting on an amp first?

The alpine type r 12's can handle around 1000 watts rms each so I suggest getting an amp at around that or a little bit higher. Take the ohms into account though.

The cheapest suggestion I could make would be to get an alpine type r 12. something like a hifonics brutus amp or if you want to get one of the best at about double the cost--still under 300... http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY

With the money left over talk to some shops near you to see if any build custom boxes--if you can't. With them building it you can probably get by with a decent mdf box for about 150, a good one for around 200. Add in styling/fiberglass it will inch up to around 400+. At least in my area, yours may be a bit different.

Whichever sub/setup you choose just don't skimp on the box it may not seem like it would matter that much but it does.

As for the previous advice on not buying a prefab box? I would agree in most scenarios, but it's not an absolute. A pre-fab box that's cheap, and just a general box? Yeah don't even think about those. If you can find one that's made for the sub you want, and it's made out of decent material? Then yeah check it out.

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

There are a few different approaches you could take, but given the gear you're starting with I'd opt for a 5-channel Class D car amplifier. They run off of the 12v batteries you already have, and can generally handle the 2-ohm load of your midrange/tweeter combo.

You could go for 2 of these, bridge one of them for the subwoofer, and build/buy crossovers (one high pass filter for the sub, and one low pass filter for the midrange/tweeter), but there are several drawbacks to this approach for your situation.

1. TPA3116/3318 chips like that are much happier at 24v (vs 12 from your car battery) - you could run 2 12v batteries together, but that might get heavy
   
   
2. You would have to have separate crossovers. Ideally you would design and build them to specifically match your speakers, but that would require measurement, multiple iterations, and would be more trouble than it's worth given the speakers you're starting with.
   
   
3. You ultimately wouldn't get the power you're looking for.
   
   
   So, benefits to the car amp (something like this or this) -
   
   
4. Integrated LPF and HPF, so your crossovers are contained in the unit
   
   
5. More power than the other approach
   
   
6. A lot easier to adjust the gain. Your midrange/tweeter assembly is more sensitive than the sub, so with a passive crossover network and amps without a gain adjustment, you would have to use an l-pad or something to balance them, or design a crossover to compensate for the difference.
   
   See what 5-channel, Class D amps are available in your country and go from there!

I think he may mean in addition to the n7, not necessarily instead of.

I personally think you may be able to make this work. Ive always wanted to do it also, but there have been a few things stopping me.

1. Volume control. I'm not sure i want to try to reach the tiny buttons, or mess with a touchscreen widget to change my volume.
   
   
2. FM radio. I listen to mostly content from my phone, but occasionally its nice just to have the radio on for around town trips, morning shows, etc. It gets tiring having to choose something to listen to every single time you get in your car.
   
   
3. Powering the tablet, and making sure its on and doing what you want it to do all the time will require some messing around. Not a dealbreaker, but it may be a headache.
   
   Also, ive had that small clarion amp before. Ive also had the Alpine version and i currently have a small RF amp (or 4Ch version) I think the RF is by far the best amp out of the three. I have the 2ch version running my fronts, and it has been great for over 2 years now. Easily worth the extra money.
   
   Edit: Also, i havent tried one yet, but these tiny amps are supposed to be cool too... if you can find one:
   http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html
   

I had it professionally installed but they had it done pretty fast and didn't complain too much about the install. As far as how hard does it hit, I have a RF 800x1 amp (at 2 ohms) running to it and it hits really nicely down into I'd say 50hz or a little lower. About half the time I run it by itself and half the time I throw in a RF 12" in bandpass that is ported realllly low and that hits really nice down into the 30hz range or lower (and the amp does about 1200w into this 1 ohm load). I think it really depends on the type of music you listen to. If you listen to a lot of rock or jazz or 4-4 edm like trance or house the 10" JL is great by itself. If you are really a bass head and listen to a lot of dnb or hip hop or old school "bass" music like I do and really want to pound, it might not quite be low enough or loud enough. But I do think it's probably the loudest single 10 on the market, or close, and the advantage of the single 10 in the front is the back seats can fold down for camping. If you put enough watts to it it really is an insane amount of bass for so little airspace. But yea, half the time I augment it with a 12" in a bandpass with one of the two ports blocked so it's tuned lower (as weird as all of this sounds) to really fill in that rumble.

edit: PS for the element I ended up installing 6.5" RF separates with the tweeters surface mounted. This pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IB8RD0/ very loud and the tweeters can be angle mounted. I'll post a pic of the angle mounted tweeters when I get a chance, one of the best setups I've heard in a vehicle.

edit2: Rockford fosgate tweeter surface mount in Honda Element https://i.imgur.com/Zc7ejwt.jpg

Lets talk some talk.

Good

Better

Best

Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.

The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3

An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv

The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d

A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60

A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i

So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.

You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.

Lets calculate installation.

1. Amplifier Installation: $120
   
2. Line Out Converter Installation: $72
   
3. Load/Wire Subwoofer into Box: $24
   
4. Disable ANC: $48
   
   Labor is going to be around $264
   
   Labor + Parts = $705
   
   I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
   
   Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
   
   $700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
   
   If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
   
   
   

$150 Morel Maximo front speakers

$90 Morel rear coax speakers

$150 Sony head unit

$130 Kenwood underseat sub


The front and rear speakers are rock solid, the head unit does what you want... it has more than twice the power of any other head unit on the market. You can skip the external amp if that is what you want but you are giving up a bit at high volume levels. The underseat sub is a huge compromise. I know you aren't looking to rattle your bones with bass, but I think you will be underwhelmed regardless.

I would urge you to consider something like this separate amp and this compact subwoofer. It will hit all the notes at reasonable sound levels without the complaining you'll get from a true underseat sub. You will need an amp kit with the separate sub and amp.



Low cost sound deadening material

Also, if you get the foam baffles be sure to cut out the back side to allow air flow otherwise you will choke your speakers/ sound bad. They are for weather protection, not to boost midbass as they are too small for that. You need to use your entire door as an enclosure for best results. That means sealing off the sheet metal holes in your doors with plywood, plastic, or as a last resort, the noico sheets. Make sure you get the right adapters from Crutchfield when ordering your head unit.... ordering by phone can be helpful if you are unsure of something like door chimes or steering wheel controls etc...

> I run a Pioneer Excelon double DIN model, and the variable HP & LP slopes & frequencies, along with the 13 band EQ are quite handy.

I assume you mean the Kenwood Excelon, which I was actually looking at and is about the same price. The Pioneer has all the same features, including HP, LP, and EQ, so I figured I would just go with the one that looked better which is Pioneer.

>I can't speak for the Hifonics brand

I was looking at some other sub amps, what do you think about the Precision Power ICE2600.1D?

As for the wire, is 4 gauge not enough for running 600 watts? I'm a bit lost on all of the things I would need if I would try to put a kit together like that.

> build the port large enough to keep down port velocity

Yea I tried to keep velocity below 25 m/s and will for sure make sure the actual interior volume is 1.25ft3.

> No amp is listed for the components

I'm planning to get this amp for the components. It does 95w at 2ohms but doesn't have a hpf, so would using a hpf on the HU be ok for that?

Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated!

that means you need to get a better amp, also for the love of god dont buy a prefab box... pay a friend to build one if you have to. the box is the most important part of your install.

EDIT: this amp will be better than that jl anyday just set your gains right and you will be fine

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8

Hmmm...

Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.

The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.

The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD

I really don't know enough about sound to know what 1, 2, or 4 ohm subs really mean, my friend just said 2 ohm is easy, sounds good, and is pretty cheap. Is there an LOC you'd recommend for a pretty low price as well?

 

I also saw this precision power amp for not much more, would this be a better purchase?

Parts list:
Woofa
Amp
ANL Fuse Holder
Ground Terminal
8AWG wire
Carpet

Combined with some wire I had on hand for the speaker and 12v connections - I like southwire for price/performance.
All connections crimped, soldered, and marine heatshrinked.
I tapped into an open KOEO fuse on the trunk's fusebox for the amp remote line. Unfortunately this means the sub turns on and off with the key, not the headunit, but I'm fine with that.
Wired the voice coils in parallel to end up with a 2ohm load.
Box internal volume is 10.5"x12"x18" - about 1.3 cubic feet. Image Dynamics recommends 1 cu. ft. in a sealed box, but 1.8 cu.ft. for "audiophiles" in a sealed box. I'm assuming that the audiophile in this case just means if we're going for only sq and not spl? I split the difference to end up with 1.3 cu. ft.
Running at 500w RMS it's pretty dang solid. Actually got off my butt and set the gain with a meter and 50Hz tone and not just by ear like I usually do.
My big challenge is that I need to figure out how to adjust or bypass the stock sub crossover from the OEM headunit/gateway. It's way too low, and I have a big ~40Hz hole in my bass. If anyone has insight as to how that works on the w211 Harmon Kardon system I'll be in your debt. Haven't dug into it yet.

$500 or under will be nearly impossible for a system with a headunit with built in navigation unless you go with used gear.

This is what I'd go with on a budget of $1,000.

Headunit $650

Box $135

Sub $73

Amp $115

Total is $973. It should end up a little over $1,000 after you buy your wiring harness and wiring kit, and I'm not sure if you need an expensive dash kit for that car. The new headunit should improve the sound of your stock speakers by giving you a lot more eq options so you can shape the sound to your liking. I added the sub because bass is usually what causes distortion in stock speakers, so with a sub you can change your crossovers on your headunit so your speakers only play your mids and highs and the sub handles your lows, which should also help to clean up the sound.

If you're not set on navigation though I'd suggest you get a different headunit. You can get a unit with comparable features minus navigation for half the price. I normally listen to my music from my phone with bluetooth and google maps just plays through the speakers telling me where to turn. Works really well for me since my unit doesn't have nav.

I went to best buy about 2 weeks ago and bought the 6.5" kicker speakers for my 01 and they were great. I have an alpine head unit and the sound difference is night and day. I have the same setup in my 06 LJ too. If I can make one suggestion for the subwoofer. I got a single 10" shallow sub and it bumps pretty hard. It was the Rockford Fosgate shallow 10 and I recommend really highly. Amazon has it for cheap, get an after market head unit, decent sized amp, and power the one speaker. You'll never get clipping or static. The amp won't over heat (as long as you get the right ratings)

This sub

And this amp

how much power are you looking to push? a sundown sa-12 is in that price range. the Rockford p3's are known for their nice low bass while still being nice and responsive. jl's I've found to be super overpriced. sub comparison for the p3 and w3. IMO, I'd choose the p3 and a really nice custom box. id also recommend the rf r500x1d to wire at 2 ohms

8 ohm is not so much special as it is uncommon in car audio. your home speakers are going to be around 8ohm but most car audio subs are 2ohm or 4ohm. so here is a very cheap but good car audio amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406508052&sr=1-4

this amp will do 300W at 4 ohm or 500W at 2 ohm. at your 8 ohm speaker this amp will do around the 150W range at best. so your sub is rated at up to 500W. this amp will run this sub for now and if you ever want to upgrade in the future you will have 500W at 2ohm to play with.

if an amp can produce 1,000W on a 1ohm speaker if you hook a 2ohm speaker to it that amp will then produce around 500W. if you attach a 4ohm speaker to it that amp can then produce 250W of power to that sub. if you hook your 8ohm sub to it that same 1KW amp can dish out around 125W of power to that sub. roughly

Tough first build I hope it comes out sick.

I’d suggest stretching the budget a hair and getting Image Dynamics ID10’s

Or going a hair bigger on the enclosure and getting image Dynamics ID12’s

They’re nice budget SQ-ish subs that do well in sealed enclosures.

Feed them with about 750watt amp at 1 ohm and they’ll sound very nice.

Something like this or this
Or this

Would pair up nicely

Ported isn’t going to work in that amount of space.

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

It will have a soft top sometimes: http://i.imgur.com/AubeK0E.jpg

Which sub would you recommend? I would like to stick in the 8-10" range and have it be somewhat compact. Those plates will fit in the factory location.

I had a friend suggest this setup:

Kicker 41KM42CW 4" 2-way Marine Speakers

Kicker 41KMW104LC 10" 150 Watt RMS 4-Ohm Marine/Boat LED Subwoofer Sub KM10

Kenwood KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Power Amplifier Conformal Coated 400W Max Power KACM3001

Would that setup work better? I don't need phenomenal sound, I just need some tunes for trails and when I drive this thing around. Could I swap in this sub instead (I don't need the fancy LEDs and stuff): Kicker 11 KM10 10" Marine Subwoofer

Rule of thumb, you get what you pay for and if it’s too good to be true it probably is.

Example boss claiming 1100 watts for $44.99 when others are selling 1000 watts for $180 or 1200 watt for $330 should be a big red flag that something isn’t right with that boss. That’s not to say you can’t get a deal on an amp that’s worth a damn or that you need to pay extra for a name it’s just an example that some things are to good to be true. That “1200 watt” boss amp would be lucky to make 400 watts on a good day.

I agree with the other commenter, don't go with that one. The good amps are CEA-2006 rated for the power they advertise. Other amps may say they can put out a certain power but it may not be true.

​

This link is for a Rockford Fosgate (name brand) amp that puts out 300W+ RMS at 4 ohms. I have a RF 1200 watt amp and its birth sheet said it really is capable of 1250W of clean RMS power. If you get this one, it will have something similar, it may be certified for 520W (@ 2 ohms) or something, which would be over 300W RMS for 4 ohms.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67758_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R500X1D.html

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=car+audio+amplifier&qid=1555008509&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

This amp is Alpine, good brand, I've owned one in the past, but allows speaker level inputs if you need to do that.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html

This one is a Kenwood amp that also puts out 300W RMS, but it costs more than the RF and Alpine ones above

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

It’s this stand for Topping amps but fits Schiit perfectly as well!

And thanks for the kind words!

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4

I think /u/For_Something answered everything about box building. Ported boxes must be built around the T/S parameters of the sub woofer. If you get a Type S, you should go for ported. It would be very simple to build a box for it and it would sound much better than that prefab you have on your list.

Most people buy their head unit from Crutchfield because they bundle all the install parts and vehicle specific instructions for (usually) a good price. You might consider that. Buying all the install parts separate with Amazon could cost more.

>Do you know if the amplifier works for the sub and components?

I wouldn't buy a four channel amp to run components and a sub. You'd only be giving your sub about 150 watts RMS, and it can handle 500 watts RMS. Get a mono sub amp with a sub sonic filter, and a 2 channel amp for the fronts. Here's a Skar amp as an example. Here's a nice US Acoustics 2 channel for the fronts. You can really go with anything though; I'd just try and get closer to the RMS of your speakers. 75x2 at 4 ohms for the fronts, 500x1 at 2 ohms for the sub. Alpine, Rockford, Pioneer, PPI, Skar, Zapco, Kicker all make amps that would work. Just stay away from Boss or anything remotely like Boss.

I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...


Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2

No experience with their speakers, but I like their head units. Better sound quality than Pioneer and Kenwood at their respective price points, just without some of the stupid useless features (looking at you, Pioneer). Their amplifiers are good as well, but they're a bit overpriced (Rockford Fosgate is my go-to brand for amps).

Rockford Fosgate offers a 500 watt (RMS, not peak) Class-D amp for under $150 on Amazon. I push a sealed 12 with it in my Explorer. Plenty of bass, for me at least. And it's clean. Link

I got a pair of these. Super cheap but surprisingly good. Originally intended to be temporary while I repaired the old ones, but after the break in I think they sound better than the old expensive ones.

Both in a ported box aimed up, pushed by this amp.

I am almost done redoing the stereo system in my '03 TJ. I'll go over it a bit for some reference. Just do some research and you'll find what suits your needs best. Affordability was definitely a concern of mine.


It had the stock headunit with the 7 speaker system which is 2 roll bar pods with coaxial 5.25" speakers, 2 knee panel speakers which are component 4" and tweeters, and a 6.5" subwoofer and 75w 1ohm amp in the center console.


I bought this JVC headunit in case I ever upgraded to a 5 channel amp, 22rms 50peak x 4channels. 6 channel, 4volt preamp output.


I replaced the knee panel and roll bar speakers with these Skar 5.25" speakers. 22w rms 75 peak each, 90db sensitivity. I had to use adapter brackets for the knee panel speakers. All speakers/brackets worked with stock hardware and covers. I tried to use baffles for the knee panel speakers but they would not fit behind the speaker. Perhaps I need to cut them down and glue them on, but I instead used polyfill behind like a blanket. I also stuffed the pods halfway or so along the edges. I used low volume door threshold foam along the edge of the pod speakers to seal it.

I added these Skar 1" tweeters to the dash corners. 20rms 80peak each, 88db sensitivity. They are at the bottom corners of my windshield screwed into the trim panel. I soldered them to the knee panel speakers in parallel. They were an afterthought, so I'm not sure if the wiring matches up but they play music.

I replaced the stock subwoofer with this Skar 6.5" DVC subwoofer. 200rms 400peak, 83.1db sensitivity. It's wired at 1 ohm to the stock amp and supposedly only getting 75w. The stock enclosure required heavy modification for the speaker to fit, lots of breaking, melting, and shaping of the plastic housing and center console. Used high volume foam to seal around the speaker. I get a bit of distortion at high volume, plan on getting a mono amp and tuning my sub individually. Also need to line the edges with a bit of polyfill. I've read the arguments, I'm going to test it.

I havent had the chance to take the doors or top off, its still winter in the Rockies, so idk how it'll sound. Probably pretty good. Feel free to ask any questions.

Edit: this is the mono amp I plan on purchasing

If you can, find someone that sells Hybrid gear and take a demo of the imagine, unity and clarus lines (it's my favorite sound atm).

While there, demo with and without a solid 4ch amp. It looks like without jbl, it's a fairly basic affair to swap speakers out.

I do agree that without an amp, your sound upgrade won't be great as that factory deck might put out about 10w a channel rms. I was actually torn on whether to just recommend trying a micro amp first or go all in. I decided to go all in, so this would be what I'd spend $1000 on:

HAT Unity 6.5 comp $430

Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 $160

at least front door sound treatment $60

So that's $650 and leaves you room for install labor plus a small amp kit for power/ground. That should be a solid set up with good midbass and a fair amount of musical accuracy, too. Heck, you could step up to the clarus line (I prefer that of the three mentioned) and only be at $850

If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.

Thanks for the quick reply. Told him he will need a better box.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463443730&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+750+rms

Is that the amp you speak of? $210 on amazon.

Also what wiring kit? I see many posted here and I don't know which would be best for his specific setup.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/

Thanks for the advice. Would it be better to get a better amp?
My friend suggested the https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1522975277&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+prime

or

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M1200-Monoblock-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B01K8F1168/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522975317&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-1200

I'm not sure if the m500 is sufficient

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

Alright then for 6.5 inch coaxials i always recommend the infonitt reference series . For your rear deck its more than likely 6x9's genera rule of thumb is that if your trying o make a round soundwave with a oval your gunna have a bad time so dont blow a crap ton of mony on the rear dec just buy somethi g decent like some pioneer or kenwoods. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B43LKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076245&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=clarion+4+channel+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41J9AFkldUL&ref=plSrch i like tbis little guy decent power tiny form factor . http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MRYHNPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076293&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pioneer+deh+x6700bt&dpPl=1&dpID=41ksZ8t7eQL&ref=plSrch right here ive always been a fan of pioneer heasunits u get decent bang for your buck. http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS212_p_221.html soundqubed is my favorite brand subs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T3VMUTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453076405&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hifonics+brutus+1100+watt+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=31TauDbdOSL&ref=plSrch another bang for your buck product. And for the sub box learn to carpentry

I hope I'm not too late to suggest this amp over that sound ordinance. Kid you not man, this little Soundstream is fantastic, and for the price its even better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L117RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1394119237&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-1500-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKE7APU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491311192&sr=8-2&keywords=skar

Skar puts out pretty solid gear, really good priced as well

ok good, its a fine subwoofer in the right box (make your own, dont buy one) but get the d2 and wire it like this

And for an amp under $200 to power it, really I would say the Twisted Sounds 1k, but its a bit over your budget, but wonderful amp. OR, here is one right on 200 that does 750rms

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

This is what you want. Built like a tank and puts out 300W rms at 4 ohms, but you can adjust the gain down to match the sub. Your Kicker TC10 is actually rated at 150W rms at 4 ohms, 300W max. Idk where they got 500W from.

If you install the amp yourself, set the gains with a multimeter so you know exactly how much wattage is being sent to the sub. There is a link on the sidebar to tell you how.

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch

I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.

For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch

The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.

Hit me up with any questions

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.

I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467

Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.

Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.

Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.


I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...

Prolly better off using the 9601 here at 1 ohm wired like this. It's better to have more power available to a sub than not enough.. this avoids clipping at high volumes.

Actual Power output is one. That Boss says 1100 watts on it, but I remember someone (Steve Meade?) put it on the amp dyno and it really only put out ~250 watts. Boss over-inflates their numbers.

Sure you can get the kicker set you linked, they are some of kickers lower line, each sub only rated for 250 watts RMS. For two 15s in a box, you get what you pay for.

For those kickers, I would recommend this amp https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524364575&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+r500x1d

Its a bit more in price than the boss, but relativity cheap when it comes to good, reputable amps.

I'm unfamiliar with those ones. If you take one out and take a picture of the back with the magnet, it should have a model number and impedance. We can go from there. Otherwise I'd say something like a Rockford R500-1. Can't know for sure, though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=aw_d_img_back_car?qid=1370818771&sr=8-2

Don't believe any of amazon's specs on this, it's 500w at 2ohm and 250w at 4ohm according to Rockford's website.

Also, if all you want is Aux and sub pre outs on the radio, get a Pioneer DEH-150MP. $60 at Best buy.

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.


So updated setup -
Wiring Kit - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4


Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine


Amp - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1


Same speakers and subs.


You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

Picked up a PPI ICE2600.1 amp for the sub that's going in my trailer, to go under the cabinet.

I noticed that the ICE series isn't on the r/CarAV list of recommended gear. Was it a bad purchase? I had a PPI amp for my Focal PolyKevlar components back in the day.... their prices seem to have dropped a lot.

I wanted to use my JBL 1200.1 that I used to absolutely LOVE for its power and value when I got it in 2003... unfortunately, it powers on but doesn't output sound. Anyone know if there's a good, inexpensive repair shop in the East SF Bay?

It's a Topping Dac/Amp shelf. It's not specifically for a Schiit stack but fits almost perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-1500-1d

I like Skar audio so that's my first choice.

http://www.down4soundshop.com/sae-1000-v2/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502736001&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fosgate+amp

https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/t-series-amplifiers/products/t-1500-1d

I'll add more in a minute.

Twisted sounds capable of 1200wrms

https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/twisted-sounds-ts1k-1000w-monoblock-bass-amplifier

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html

Can't find a link but Digital Designs has an amp that's in that price range and does around 1500rms

I know I'm missing some but your have MANY great choices.

I bought a Rockford P1-1x12 ported prefab sub with a Rockford R1500X1D amp. The sub is 4 ohms and will run 300W on that amp. Both are about $300 together and will add some decent bump without straining your ears or electrical system.

If you want sightly less bump, they have a 10 inch version as well. If you want more bump, they also have dual sub prefabs, but those might require a bigger amp.

As for the hassle of an active/powered sub, it's not much different to install one with an amp vs without. You still have to run wires and plug them into the right spots. The only difference is the external amp just needs to be attached to either the enclosure or somewhere else and then the wires ran from the amp to the enclosure terminals, which is really easy.

Thanks for the advice it was helpful. These are my speakers, my 4 channel amp, my one channel amp, and I'm going to install a 12" kicker subwoofer in a factory box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479707951&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=9601+pioneer&dpPl=1&dpID=51YozvhmIYL&ref=plSrch

This amp with knukonceptz 4 gauge.

And a soundqubed hds315 or sundown sa15 is what I would recommend. The hds315 is on sale in 5 days. The amp will be perfect

This is as budget as it gets without diminishing too much quality. Wire like so and set the gain properly and you're set.

For your sub amp, I recommend a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D or something similar in the 500 watt RMS range. You could go a little bigger for the amp but those subs are only rated at 250 watts each. The 1200 watt rating is a marketing ploy.

Are you only looking to upgrade your mids and not highs? I strongly recommend going with a component set like the Morel Maximo 6's. I'm assuming you want a set of mids for the back doors? If so you could get the coax version of those Morel Speakers for the rear doors.

As far as headunits go, pick something from a big name brand (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.) that fits your connectivity requirements(bluetooth? CDs? USB?) and has RCA outputs for at least 4 channels(front and sub) preferably 6(front, rear, and sub).

Do you have your wiring figured out? If not, make sure you factor the cost of wiring into your budget. Looking at about $100 - $150 for wiring depending on brands/size.

Edit: Keep in mind that while purchasing products from Amazon is cheaper, it will not usually get you a warranty so if stuff breaks or doesn't work out of the box, Rockford Fosgate or whoever the Manufacturer is most likely won't cover it or fix it.

I found the other amp you recommend before the PPI for $170 on Amazon sold by woofersetc would you recommend that over the American bass?
https://www.amazon.com/P1000-1-Precision-Power-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B005KW10ES

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.

Yeah my Jeep puddles up pretty good near the front which worries me and I will keep all that in mind. For reference purposes the subs and amp that I bought are these:

http://www.amazon.com/Package-Wrangler-Kicker-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00KJ0ZI4O

http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO

I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.

I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.

The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Equalizer:26$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

2 speakers: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amp: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wiring: 16$


Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.

So quick question, I'm still learning all the math behind car audio and want to make sure I understand what amp I need to get. If I got an amp like this and wired it according to Rockfords website, on the 4Ohm P3 it would get 500W?

For the box, I'll need dimensions, but heres a good cheap setup.
Skar 800RMS amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-800-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKEKNUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295502&sr=8-1&keywords=skar+800

Sundown E-10" subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-10-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ1Q9FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295580&sr=8-1&keywords=sundown+e-10+d2

Knukonceptz 8-Gauge OFC amp-installation kit:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478295603&sr=8-4&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge


Total ~ $300 and the box will cost about $50 to make.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8

This one would give the best sound for both?

This is a somewhat subjective question, so I will give my opinion.

Hear it yes... feel it... meh not really. Don't have too high of expectations.

If your sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil this amp would be a good choice for optimal performance: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX8U?keywords=rockford%20fosgate%20250&qid=1452789936&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile


It's 125. I think it was cheaper before. .. great deal still

This little beast will push 400 watts and it's super small. I'm running the two channel on a cooler right now and it pounds.

I found 4 different amps on amazon. Which one would I need?

[1](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-500-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001ANZSU8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373046412&sr=1-1&keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500 "tooltip text")

[2](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR500X1-Boosted-Amplifier/dp/B007AQ2X4I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373046412&sr=1-2&keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500 "tooltip text")

[3](http://http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500X1bd-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HZ7E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373046412&sr=1-3&keywords=Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+500en.wikipedia.org "tooltip text")

[4](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500-1bd-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B003TUVIUO "tooltip text")


I think these are the speakers

[Subs](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD212-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B000P6KN7Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
"tooltip text") Are 2ohm ok?

If you don't mind spending $100 for an amp ... get one like this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092657&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+amp

https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092715&sr=8-1&keywords=clarion+xc1410

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY

Those are all so small you can mount them behind the dash, which means you can just hook it right into the factory wire harness speaker leads.

Yeah, you got it. I have two RP3's, one running the Plex media server, with an external 512GB SSD, and the other running RasPlex. They are connected together via the LAN cable. I then have an HDMI-to-RCA adapter. I will run the RCAs to the aux input in my Honda Odyssey minivan. That allows me set that as a source for the rear TV. I also have a nice little Lenovo remote control that the kids can use to navigate.

Since the RP3's also have wifi, I am going to setup Rsync to check for new content from my main media PC in the house and download anything new while connected to the wifi (typically when I am loading the kids into the van, takes waaay too long).

The last piece of the puzzle was enabling it to turn on and off with the ignition, but also do a controlled shutdown so as not to corrupt the SD cards.

I'll be taking pics when I get it all together.

These amps seem to be better options than the ones I was first looking at. Any recommendations for what I should go with?

Skar:
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_25?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492032308&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=class+d+5+channel+amplifier&psc=1

MB Quart:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZRXHJYK/ref=psdc_10980761_t2_B01LW7Z8NI

Pioneer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014XQ6BLI/ref=psdc_10980761_t1_B00ZRXHJYK

Kenwood:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-7005PS-Performance-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00786XNS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492033700&sr=1-1&keywords=Kenwood+KAC-7005PS+Performance+Series+5+Channel+Power+Amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)

with this box and this amp edit: it would actually be about 50-60 bucks cheaper to go this route and you willl have better quality sound

If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.

Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RpKFHCctJfO/p_13693332/JL-Audio-ACP110LG-TW1.html

You know something is shit when they advertise the RMS at .25 Ohms. What the actual fuck. At the usual 2 Ohms that car subwoofers run at you are probably getting 50 watts max. Small box, small driver, small power = bad results. Always go at least 2/3.

If you want to fix your setup you should buy a decent 12 inch driver and use the T/S parameters to throw together a box. If you want to save space you are going to be sacrificing some extension, but at least with proper design it should have a flatter response. You also don't need a ton of power, a mono channel amp that does 100 watts RMS into 2 Ohms will get you started but 200+ lets you use less efficient drivers and will tend to have better build quality.

Edit: If you do go the DIY sub route I suggest this small and relatively cheap mono amp. Nothing amazing but delivers on the rating.

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-M3001-Monoblock-Certified-Amplifier/dp/B00U80FUHA

SUB : https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1S4-10-Prime-Subwoofers/dp/B00HFXLSPG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553243&sr=8-10&keywords=2+10+inch+subwoofers

BOX : https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-2003-2008-Subwoofer-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEBYBC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553132&sr=8-10&keywords=350z+subwoofer+box

AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553262&sr=8-3&keywords=boss+amp


Would the sealed box affect why it does that as well?

So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended


[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea



[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95

Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95


And

12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea

JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498

Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.

I'd honestly stick with a JL amp.
Here's a 1000w JL amp for <$250

JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LMCZMY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TjsEub1YS5CB1

I have a [pioneer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zHh6wbD89X5A8), I wanted the sub I purchased because I was under the impression that I could get a sealed box. That wasn't true, sonic electronics had incorrect info listed. I was going to purchase a sealed box for the new sub since I'm getting credit for the return. I've never used the sub

I wanted to give an update.

• ROCKFORD FOSGATE 500x1
  
  
• 2 pairs of these speakers [KICKER 6.5" CS65]
  (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
  
  
• KICKER COMPS 10" SUB 4OHM
  
  
• 4 GA WIRING KIT
  
  
• PAC THING TO NOT HAVE TO SPLICE
  
  I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
  
  Am I missing anything?

Thanks for the reply. I'm just going to swap my amp out for this one and wire down to 1 ohm.

that amp is just over rated ... its the same as the soundstream picasso nano, and the precision power ion series

good on a budget

I don't advise you use either of those amps. If you can spend ~150, get the Rockford R500x1d. I have the R500-1D and it is one of the better amps I've had. Also, the Boss amp being a Class A/B, would do all typesof wonders on your electrical

Find an amp that does 300 watts at 4 ohms and you're good. A few examples: Rockford Alpine Rockville

I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6

500watts for about 130 USD

The SQ amp is $210, but I found a Rockford Prime 750 on Amazon for $192 (every little bit helps).

I also found an ATrend enclosure with identical specs to the one recommended on the SQ website for $65 instead of $141, HERE.

What do you think?

EDIT: I added some more amps to my OP.

I recommend the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D. Underrated 1200 watts (closer to 1400 watts) for $260.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG

I know about the cabling parts, what I think i need is Something like this piece. Correct?

Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.

It looks like it may be the topping acrylic shelf, people use it with the Schiit stack.

Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WZ8XBbSDEN6DV

So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?

This will work well.

Back on Amazon found mine on eBay here's the Amazon link.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_26SCDbCBPXX50

This is the amp I ordered and this is the sub. Since I first made this post, I was able to switch my order to get the 4Ω DVC version of the same sub. Now both will be running at 250W RMS, so it should all work out fine.

Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539818799&sr=8-4&keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.

Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.

This amp is 259 and will power it well I have one pushing my 10" jl w7. http://www.amazon.com/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY

There's also an acrylic rack for that stack too: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/

The Schitt stack also fits in this rack as well as the JDS Atom amp.

Alright so I've got KnuKonceptz wire now, but will THIS work with THIS?

Don’t listen to him.... save an extra $50 and get a Rockford Prime amp.

It’ll do rated power and won’t start a fire.

I have these Rockfords, with this amp. I love it, no complaints.

This is well more than enough amp for the speaker you want to push.

Here Is a lower priced option that falls smack in them middle of the power suggested by JL.

So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1536015841&sr=1-6&keywords=car+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011

r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834

r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Here you go. I think it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-BV9757B-Double-DIN-Motorized-Touchscreen/dp/B00HZA6E6W

And here are the cheapo amps I think im gonna get.
https://www.amazon.com/EV4-400-EVOLUTION-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLEE4/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487419851&sr=1-12&keywords=4+channel+amp

and

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487446228&sr=1-2&keywords=monoblock+amp&refinements=p_36%3A-5500

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LmE6xbKXHW2GV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IvE6xbV8VMN6B

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3VMT42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VwE6xb45EYG7S

Had her for over two years running 1 ohm with ZERO issues.

how would this amp work? a bit less expensive but still overrated on power for my sub. Rated at 750 Watts rms at 1 ohm.

So after looking over the suggestions I threw together my version of the system.


Head Unit

Front Speakers

Rear Speakers

4 Channel Amp

Sub

Sub Amp


Now I just need to figure out what RCA's to get and what sound dampener to get.

https://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-PN1-650D-Monoblock-Picasso-Amplifier/dp/B008L117RK

I used this to power my subwoofer when I had a car.

This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?

Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box

Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416351284&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+500+watt+amp

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE

This the one?

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

hey, quick question. I'm looking at buying this subwoofer and amp. Would it work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00YQ674D0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ZCHPV8EK9A6VJT7C757

Would probably also do the job

This one?

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P500X1bd-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HZ7E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1371497589&sr=8-7&keywords=rockford+fosgate+p500

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19556_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P500-1BD.html?utm_source=nextag_cse&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=sidecar&scpid=9&scid=scsho3601024

500w RMS at one ohm. You can get any 1 ohm single voice coil, or 0.5 or 2 ohm dual voice coil, then wire them for 1 ohm.