Reddit mentions: The best cat food stoarge products

Pretend as if you're about to adopt a very mobile, active toddler/baby human. Remember that, unlike dogs, cats live VERTICALLY! (They can jump and climb).


Try to look around your home and see any things the cat might get into/eat/destroy and tidy up those things as much as possible. For example, if you have blinds on the window in your room, you might want to tie up the pull-strings so a curious cat can't grab them, and tuck electrical cords away as best you can. If you have any houseplants, google them online to make sure they aren't toxic (a good place to start is https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/cats-plant-list ). Cats definitely won't stop themselves from eating toxic plants - my 19-year-old idiot decided the green onions in the backyard looked tasty one day and tried a bite, and my 1-year-old idiot had a go at a poinsettia I had inside (it has since been exiled to the backyard - the plant, not the cat!)


I also personally NEVER leave out any toys that my cats can easily rip up and ingest parts of - this means nothing small and nothing with feathers, string, leather, or straw. Cats can get VERY sick and die if they eat string/"linear foreign bodies".


I only leave out sturdy "interactive" toys that the cats can initiate play with on their own, such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-317-Tower-Tracks-Chase/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1487151213&sr=1-1&keywords=tower+of+tracks


Putting normal toys away when it isn't "playtime" also helps keep the cat from getting bored with the toys. And cats CAN be curious about the strangest things - they'll want to open cupboards and knock things off tables and investigate every box and bag that comes into the house. So if anyone in your house takes medicines, make sure the bottles are closed very firmly, and put away in a cupboard, things like that. If you have things that you collect (like statues or figurines) or if you have anything breakable, make sure it isn't sitting on a table where a cat can paw it off onto the ground! A cat will paw at/investigate everything. You can't protect them from everything, and no one can put away everything in their lives, but you can take a few precautions.


Another general word of advice I can give, and it's perhaps the most important one, is do not feed her kibble. No kibble at all. Feed her canned food only (preferably grain-free). Kibble is terrible and leads to a number of health problems, including urinary tract problems, kidney problems, and chronic dehydration (which leads to constipation). Long story short, for the best health, cats should be fed a grain-free canned formula high in meat protein, which is closer to their normal, natural diet, and no kibble whatsoever. Even the worst canned food is miles better than the "best" high-quality gourmet kibble. Kibble has no benefits at all. It is worth the $$$ to feed a canned food diet, you will save money in vet bills and dental cleanings overall.


If you are interested, the reason for wet food is this - cats have a very low thirst drive, as they evolved from desert-dwelling animals, and have changed very little after our "domestication" of them - genetically and physically, they're still pretty much 99% their ancestors. A wild feline is designed to get almost all of its moisture needs out of its prey (meat, blood) and thus has very little "urge" to drink. Even if you think a cat is drinking enough, it's not. Any cat on kibble is in a state of dehydration - they simply do not drink enough to make up for it.


The other benefit of high-protein, grain-free canned foods is that they have actual MEAT proteins, and will provide good, usable nutrients to your cats, instead of useless bulky grains and carbs. Most kibbles are mostly grains, which means they pass through the cat's digestive tract without being digested. The cat derives no nutritional value from them. On a good meaty canned food, cats will eat their meals and feel more appropriately full, because their bodies are able to actually digest the food they're eating. With kibble, especially free-fed kibble, a cat will always eat more than you realize they are, because they can't digest half of what they're eating, so they constantly feel hungry, because they're literally not getting the proper nutrition from their food.


Also - having cats on a species-appropriate diet will have one other benefit. Their poops will smell a LOT less! (On a raw diet, the poops will be small, dry, whitish, and they will have no smell at all. No joke. I can stick my entire head in the litterbox seconds after my cat drops a deuce and I can't smell a thing.) Cats bury their waste instinctively to protect themselves from being found by predators and competitors (other cats), so their bodies are designed to digest protein very efficiently and thus they will produce less waste and less smell when on an appropriate diet. And every cat owner wants a less stinky litterbox!


Fish is not an appropriate diet for cats - do not feed a food that is primarily fish or high in fish. Cats build up mercury in their bodies far faster than humans do, since they are smaller, plus fish causes other issues: http://www.littlebigcat.com/nutrition/why-fish-is-dangerous-for-cats/


Get vet checkups at least once a year (including dental checks/cleaning), and have her microchipped and have her wear a collar with ID tags at all times, even if you intend for her to be fully indoors. I have two friends, one in Arizona and the other in California, both who refused to put collars/ID tags on their cats because "oh, they'll never get out!" (One friend didn't even spay her cat, she was THAT convinced the cat would never escape.) Of course, both sets of cats got out - in Arizona through the carelessness of another family member, and in California as the result of a burglary that left a window smashed. One friend only found one of her cats. The other found hers, but the cat had gotten pregnant in the meantime. So, all cats should wear collars and ID tags, because no matter how careful YOU are, bad luck still happens!


Make sure you familiarize yourself with foods that are toxic to cats and keep them away from the cat - these include xylitol, chocolate, onions, garlic, and alcohol. As I mentioned before, many houseplants are toxic as well, such as poinsettias and lilies. Citrus fruits are toxic to cats. Many "essential oils" are also toxic to cats, so if you or anyone you live with uses scented oils or essential oils (such as tea tree oil), be careful.


Don't use a covered/hooded litterbox. It is inhumane for the cat - it's like asking the cat, who has a much more sensitive nose than ours, to use an unflushed public toilet that is located inside of a closed phone booth. Even just ONE other pee/poop in the box turns a covered box into a festering stinkhole for a cat's sensitive nose. Just think about it objectively - would you want to use the toilet if you hadn't flushed it the last time you went? Just scoop often - at LEAST once a day - and you will not have stink problems.


For the same reason, avoid "scented" litters - the scent may be nice to us, but cats aren't into "Fresh Linen" - it's just an overwhelming chemical cacophony to their noses.


I've used two brands of litter exclusively for years - Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra, and EverFresh Unscented with Activated Charcoal. The EverFresh is what I use with my indoors cat, and my outdoors cat uses the Dr. Elsey's. My younger (indoors) cat also goes to my office three or four days a week with me, and I use the Dr. Elsey's in her litterboxes there (again, no stink buildup there either). I have been supremely happy with both brands. You really get what you pay for to a certain degree with cat litter. Cheap litter is going to be cheaply crappy.


But on the flipside, those super fancy "special" litters - like the ones made from pine, corn, wheat, or newspaper - can be hazardous, as they provide a substrate for bacteria to grow when the cat urinates on them. There's zero chance of that with clay litter.


Here are the activated charcoal bags and "odor absorbers" I use near my litterboxes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZLV7BH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006975FTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145KS23W/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You may want to get multiple litterboxes. The "general rule of thumb" is one box per cat plus one. Scoop every day! You can invest in rolls of "doggie-doo bags" like these - https://www.amazon.com/Bags-Board-Waste-Pick-up-Refill/dp/B000UCU53U I open one bag and put it next to me when I'm scooping the box. I drop the poops and pee-clumps into the doggie-doo bag, then tie off the bag and toss it! It helps keep stink to a minimum inbetween trash pickup days, and it's more sanitary than just dumping the bits straight into the trash can.


I also have my litterboxes on litter mats. They will save your sanity. This is my favorite one so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUU90K0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A litter mat REALLY helps "catch" most tracked-out litter. I've also got one of these mats, which is great for its size but isn't AS easy to clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PHLNRA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That's all I can think up off the top of my head for now :} I'm definitely no cat expert, but feel free to ask any other questions you might have!

Moved across state successfully w my massive DIY collection. My insight...

XL plastic art/craft supply storage containers with adjustable sectioning are your answer. Make sure you get the deep kind. Heres what I used

It was literally a godsend for storage/keeping everything organized. Worked for my packaging & container collection, tools, Minimixers, old products I created, beakers etc. IME there wasn't anything I had in my DIY hobby that was too big to fit. Stacks nicely, maximizes space in car.

I purchased 4 of them when the aqua colored one was $13 (but I see $ went up).

For my active ingredients (my babies) I took extra protection. Old prescription bottles house 1-2oz ingred vials to keep them protected from sunlight. Also have used amber color ziploc bags (used for photo film, sold on Amazon) for larger vials. Then I kept them all inside an XL airtight re-sealable storage container (the ones meant for food). Mine's meant for dogfood so it was way huge enough to fit everything. $10 for 25lb one.

My actives that required refridgeration were tricky. I eventually ended up triple-gallon-ziploc-bagging them wrapped with ice. And then got one of those Hot-Cool temp preserving bags they sell at grocery stores. 8 hours later & ice hadn't even melted.

Assuming you don't own a $1000+ overhead mixer and lab furniture, I'd say all your bases are covered. I definitely ditched extra things that I routinely replace (like my pipettes, old actives I didn't care about, labels).

Being a college student myself, I understand the need to be frugal. If you're going to be in a car, any old box or plastic storage totes you have would surely suffice. Only thing I'd say is a necessity is watching your active ingredients. Spend $ to keep them secure, otherwise you'll end up paying more $$ to replace them.

I had a food sensitive foster dog; we didn't go through a full food trial, but she was on a hypo diet to try to clear up her chronic ear infection. She had a dry, itchy coat, and chronic ear infections. Flare-ups were definitely triggered by chicken and duck.

Hills Prescription makes hydrolyzed protein treats, and so does Royal Canin. The Hills ones are quite large and hard to break up, making them fine for occasional rewards but not great for formal training sessions. The RC ones are easier to break up, but they're weirdly greasy to handle and Hazel didn't find them as palatable as the Hill's ones. When I needed something high(ish) value, I used hydrolyzed protein canned food, slightly thinned out with a little bit of water, in a squeeze tube (I used this one, but do yourself a favour and get one with a flip top instead of a crew cap). It worked really well for us. A ziploc bag works as well as long as the dog is a licker and not a grabber.

Lastly, if you brush your dog's teeth, check the toothpaste, as well as "flavoured" toys like nylabones or benebones, if you use things like that.

Yeah, this seems pretty complicated as some others are saying as well. As a software dev myself, I often find DIY electronics have a much higher risk of failure because you forget about an odd scenario (ex. float switch failure) that eventually causes a huge headache (ex. flooded house).

Are you already using a controller for your tank? If not, I would just get one and upgrade it to eventually run auto-water changes. It of course will do much more as well all of which will help keep your tank stable and happy.

If you do have a controller, this can be done by using two equal strength pumps that put water in a tank water out at a set time every day/week.

Either way, having my 80 gallon in a small city apartment my GF is always on me about tank stuff being around the place. I bought this Dog food storage container as it holds about 12 gallons of water for my ATO. It also fits perfectly inside a cabinet from Ikea (couldn't find the link, sorry).

If you choose the DIY route, good luck!

Why not 5 gallon buckets with sealable lids? cheap, easily available, and useful for other stuff. You can even buy screw on lids like these: https://www.amazon.com/Gamma2-4124-Gamma-Seal-Lid/dp/B00AYVRHCO/ref=pd_sim_199_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AYVRHCO&pd_rd_r=93e01f15-ccac-11e8-84cd-5d1350972647&pd_rd_w=ssqHU&pd_rd_wg=NAc4q&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=WNJ11VF65YG5CA2Y62V1&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WNJ11VF65YG5CA2Y62V1

We have used them for horse and pet feed.

I've also used Scepter/Skilcraft jerry cans for dry storage. They have big openings, ones you can get a hand in, so they work for storage other than liquids. Although they double up for that use as well. https://www.buylci.com/water-can-5-gallon.html. Super sturdy, and far superior to most of the crap cans REI and other places sell.

Yes, they have a foam seal under the lid that does a great job. I've had no issues in the past several years with grain storage at all. They're the IRIS 45-47qt ones like these, which hold 50-55# sacks just fine (very full to the top with 55#), and they're on sale for around $20 for a three piece set from various places. I got some on Amazon and some from Woot when they were on sale... here's a link to them on woot right now for $23.

I use two of these

http://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Airtight-Storage-Container-Quart/dp/B00186O0MO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457936920&sr=8-3&keywords=Iris+MP10

They BARELY hold a 50# bag of grain but they do. One for Maris Otter the other for standard 2 row. Its nice being able to wheel them around my garage to keep them out of the way but easy accessible when i need.

That said i bought them on woot for $22 each and they came with a smaller container as well.

I didn't change my chonk's food but started measuring what I gave her. This container made it easy:

https://www.amazon.com/PISSION-Storage-Container-Graduated-Dispenser/dp/B06Y3YRX17

Exercise is always good too; a laser pointer gets my chonk running around like crazy. Catnip can also encourage activity. But I think the food makes the biggest difference!

Best of luck! It is hard to manage an agitated Great Dane, I definitely feel you there. Just a heads up, if Sampson is passing up your run of the mill training treats, I've used a "treat tube" with canned dog food in it. I don't actually use the treat toob brand specifically as I was dissatisfied with it. I ended up using one of those toiletry squeeze containers from the travel-sized toiletry section at Target and I believe it was like $1.

Hey, thanks. I'd have never known to even look for that sub.

I'm lifting one of these with 10 gallons of wort in it. It's 14 x 14 x 20 inches and probably weighs over 80lbs when I'm moving it. It needs to stay upright.

The steps are four concrete steps leading straight into my apartment. It's nice and easy with two sets of hands, makes me think that a strap or device could help me manage the awkwardshape/crappy handles.

I'll repost this over to /r/moverporn later, that makes a ton of sense.

I store mine in a Vittles Vault. Airtight, keeps pests away, easy to open, easy to clean. Keeps food fresh. You should be able to find something similar on Amazon or at your local pet store.

We have the Vittles Vault 50 lb Storage Container and we are able to stuff a 28.6 lb Orijen Six Fish kibble bag into it.

To give you more info, Orijen makes really stiff bags that come vacuum sealed as a giant brick until you open it.

It definitely takes some effort and elbow grease to fit the bag into the container. But that's mostly because you're trying to fit a long rectangular shape into a smaller circular hole. It's difficult, but doable.

If you want to fit 30 lbs of kibble (bag and all) in, I really recommend you getting a Vittles container that's bigger than the 40 lb size.

Yes, get the basic 7 gallon brew bucket. Drill a hole in the lid with their drill bit. Add the bulkhead. Add a TC to ball lock gas post. Now you can do closed transfers.

I also love my Tilt and TiltPi running on a Pi Zero.

With all that cash you won't mind a large grain storage bin perfect for 50 pound grain sacks.

You can break down your pound bags of hops into smaller bags with a vacuum sealer.

Try an RO system and upgrade it with a 14 gallon pressure tank (can't find the link).

I'm a big fan of this: IRIS Airtight Food Storage Container https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186O0MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y4JYBbF9DG221

There are other brands with similar styles that work, too. In general I like the top lid and to size up a bit because then I'm able to fit the entire bag in the container to keep it fresh and then I don't need to clean the container nearly as much.

I got mine on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00186O0MO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can fit a 40lb bag in the 35lb one, but it's pretty tight, and I often have to remove 1/8 of the bag and put it in another container, or I can't close the bin. Otherwise, my dogs haven't managed to open it yet, as long as you're careful when you close it (and I put the opening against the wall). And it was cheap (I got two).

We use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJOOI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_sgl5xbGD5G65M which works pretty great. I can't see your dog getting into that.

> if you don't want to carry around a vacuum, which seems like kind of a pain

Traveling with my dogs is like having kids. They have their own duffel bag with a travel Vittles Vault, his-and-hers food bowls, water bowl (collapsible), chamois towels, beach towels, a spray bottle of Nature's Miracle, spare pick-up bags, a Chuck-It, waterproof Chuck-It balls, filled bones to keep them occupied at the hotel, at least one favorite toy for my crazier pup... Tossing a small vacuum into the mix ain't no thang.

SLSON 2 Pack Pet Food Can Cover Universal Silicone Cat Dog Food Can Lids 1 Fit 3 Standard Size BPA Free and Dishwasher,Blue and Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHKJCLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OfpRDb85Q19M8



I have something similar to this and it fits every size can I’ve ever fed my cats.

Not sure if they're the right size but something like this might be worth a try.

Edit: Here's one that's more expensize but fits multiple sizes.

You've got me looking around now to replace the two cheese puff containers I've been using with cracked lids. This is the most promising I've seen so far, it's 8 gallons so it may even be large enough to mix a month in one shot.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RBB6UI/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

*Just checked the volume of my cheese puff containers, they're 3 gallons. I've mixed up to 15 days of my DIY in one, though it was tighter than I'd like, so 8 gallons should prove doable for a 30 day mix.

I buy food in big bags, and I use this container. The food I buy is a very small kibble (each piece is like 3/8" circumfrence) and I can fit 2 30-lb bags in the 60-69 qt. You could probably fit one 40 lb bag of a larger kibble with no trouble.

This makes a great fermenter for 10 gallon batches.

Great question.

They definitely are claim to be and have a high review rating , Here is the same product on Amazon.

I use two of these containers, one for PLA one for ABS:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJOP2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I put two of these in each container:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZ6PZ0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are very big, bigger than most car oil filters. At the rate they are going (in Florida) I probably won't have to bake the silica but every 6 months. So maybe that would be an option for you? My humidity meter doesn't go low enough to measure the humidity when the container is closed and sealed (it has an o-ring on the lid). I think the meter won't go below 22% humidity or something along that range.

When you open up the container cool breeze comes out of it (again in Florida outdoors).

How big are you looking for? I have these iris containers for dog & cat food and I'm happy with mine. Made in the USA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UVADHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kj4KybMXNKMM9

It's under $2. Add it to your amazon cart as an add on for the next time you order something and just gift it to him.

As funny as this is, I've heard stories of dogs getting stuck and suffocating like this. I'd recommend getting a food storage bin. Makes the food last longer too

I just picked up one of these pet food bins which are highly rated, pushed on homebrewfinds.com all the time, and are pretty cheap.

>* 0.0437 Layer Height

Whoa. I tried that a couple of times. It's like rice paper, only way thinner. I couldn't even see the first layers, it was so transparent.

You'll definitely need to keep the temp high enough and use bone-dry filament to keep that level of detail.

Do you know about baking the moisture out and storing with dessicant?

Before storage, bake at 45-50C(~110-120F) for 2 hours for PLA. Do not exceed 55C (~135F). Oven off but oven light on for a few hours may be enough.

Get the orange indicating silica to avoid cobalt: "(1.2 LBS) Premium Orange Indicating Silica Gel Beads" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQYGRVV/ and store your filament in something like "IRIS Airtight Pet Food Storage Container" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186O0LU/

How airtight is that tin can, and how long is the food normally stored? Since you're washing it regularly, I'm less worried about contamination and fatty deposits and more worried about air seeping in.

If it's <4 weeks, I think you're good. More than that and I'd look for something with a tight seal. My dog takes ~8 weeks to finish her bag of food, so I keep it in the original bag in an airtight container to keep it fresh.

My brewing partner and I use these, and IMO they are only OK.

Admittedly, we fill them to be too full. Grain spills out when we open them. They get heavy and slightly collapse the low container on the totem pole, just a meh option.

Meanwhile, the bigger vittles vaults are great. as is the roller, square dog food container we bought, because we are not tempted to stack them and you access through the roof.

I use a pet food container. I buy 6 lbs of whole beans about once a month. This container is airtight and a good size. IRIS Nesting Airtight Pet Food Container, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RBB630/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Quuuyb93QA8QD

Bulk Grain storage lightning deal EDIT:2 looks like these are coming up a few times during prime day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L0Z4HO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Edit: Inkbird controllers going up for lightning deal starting at 6:00 p.m PDT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVBG8K1/ref=gbps_tit_m-6_3b69_801408ea?pf_rd_p=db08f08d-45f1-490b-aa6c-1f4d543b3b69&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14611812011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=H6HJTJX7ZZV5HBJ9Z47P

I vary in between Williams, Adventures in Homebrewing, Keystone, Morebeer, Yakima valley Hops.

​

The following holds just under 55lbs of grain (you'll need a 1 gal ziploc for the remainder).

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00186O0MO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one of these...

I keep pellets in the top and backup hay in the bottom container. I use a measuring cup instead of the included huge scoop. (don't wanna obese bun) I actually ended up using the huge scoop for his litter. I've had the container for 2 years with no problems.

I have a large 30 gallon tote that holds my kettle, large starsan, brushes, siphon, and various sizes of plastic boxes. One smaller box holds my water treatment stuff, a slightly larger ones holds tubes and airlocks, and then a larger one holds various knicknacks (hop bags, little plastic cups that I use for hop additions, turkey baster, thermometer, hydrometer, etc). I like this because I can carry my whole kit out to the garage and know that I have everything I need.

I use my mashtun to store my chiller.

For hops, I have a handheld vacuum pump and I just jam partials into a larger vacuum bag and remove the air. I also do pint jars like /u/KidMoxie does.

I don't buy grain in bulk yet, but I just ordered two of these.

Like others have mentioned, I use the Vittles Vault-- the one I have holds 50lbs of food with no issues. It is airtight/watertight/insect proof. A bit pricey, but worth it.

That's the thing, we actually bought one of these things and they're already in there.

I've never heard about these things before, never would have occurred to me that moths could get into food like this.

I going attempt to ferment in one of these.
14" by 14" foot print should fit.

vittles vault

I can fit a whole 50lb sack with room for a bit more in one of the vittles vaults. This is the one i have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJOOI

I use Vittles Vaults- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJOOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L5hOybE53QFZX

One bigger one like that for lump and one smaller one for smoking wood.

Sometimes you just need to keep their wet food fresh.

I think /u/Fmradiochick would do quite well at this contest.

A container like this should do the trick. Most of those types of containers are, like, $35 max.

actually, I have been planning on basic cabinets designed around the dimensions of my kettle and fermenters with hooks and shelves for all of the smaller accessories and accouterments.

My mill and my malt container are both on wheels, so I have been planning on leaving an open area without cabinets to keep those. I actually cover the mill with a canvas tarp when I am not using it to keep sawdust off of it.

I don't really produce too much dust; I do most of my work with hand tools, and when I am using the band saw or the table saw I hook up my shop vac to try and pull as much dust out of the air as I can. The dustiest activity I do is sanding, even when I am using my shop vac attached to the sander. I am in the process of building a downdraft table to try and minimize airborne dust from sanding, but again time is my main constraint these days.

We got ours on Amazon. It's this one.

I use this type of container to store our 40 lbs that we get delivered. They're easy to dump the food into and scoop out into the dog bowls. It's not the nicest looking but it works since we keep it in our laundry room.

I use these PetFood Containers from Amazon . Use different colors for different blends . The scoops and small boxes are handy too .. Just fill the smaller box from the big one and carry that out back ..

Pet food containers for bulk. I got the large one for $25, though.

And these for DME/specialty grains.

http://smile.amazon.com/Vittles-Vault-50-50-Pound-Stackable/dp/B0002DJOOI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414465239&sr=8-3&keywords=Vittles+Vaults

Vittle Vaults are another option and what I've started using.

I use a large dog food container with wheels. Holds 40lbs easy...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L0Z4HO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep all of my filament that I'm not using stored in one of these airtight containers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00186O0LU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 25 pound container in that link is big enough to hold at least eight spools of 1kg plastic from atomic filament.

 

Inside of the container I place one of these renewable desiccant devices: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I then keep the container next to my printer, which is inside my house so it maintains room temperature.

I use ant-proof bins. The one I use for my dogs is this one on amazon. I think they sell them at petsmart.

I have mine in a 5 gallon bucket with a gamma seal lid and dessicant packs.

neither actually its the 50
http://www.amazon.com/Vittles-Vault-50-50-Pound-Stackable/dp/B0002DJOOI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421166031&sr=8-3&keywords=vittle+vault

You can buy cat food in 13oz cans, is that big enough? Just buy a few can covers at your local pet store or online.

• If your LHBS has trouble stocking the ingredients you want be them extract, grain or anything else, there are many online retailers that always have fresh product in stock. Ordering crushed grain is almost always an option, but so is buying bulk sacks of grain and milling them yourself (although this will require you to purchase a mill)
  
  
• Grain freshness all depends on how it is stored. I purchase 55lb sacks of all my base malts and store them in air-tight dog food containers. I've used year old base malts with no noticeable impact on the beer.
  
  
• Not an expert on BIAB but from what I understand sparging is not required. It may slightly decrease your efficiency so you may want to add a little extra grain on your first few brews until you nail down all of your new system's numbers.

I use a 50lb vittles vault.

http://www.amazon.com/Vittles-Vault-50-50-Pound-Stackable/dp/B0002DJOOI/

Whatever option you choose beware that lifting it is gonna be a bitch. I added a spigot to mine to help with racking to keg.

Dog food storage bins get pretty large. I actually have one of these in storage from a dog that passed last year now that I think about it. Would be a PITA to get the box at the bottom though!

I got this when I had my GMG pet food storage container and dumped the bag into it. Now that I have a RT700 I just put what ever left from the bag into the container.

They are really really frigging dangerous. I still use them, but I shrivel up a little every time I pick one up in a bear hug, (brewhauler hurts the crap out of my back - not built for short guys!).

Here was my last fallen solder....didn't dent the concrete at all!

I'm strongly considering switching to 15 gal plastic fermenters. 1 fermenter instead of 2 for my batches, easy peasy. Except I'm unsure how I'll hoist it up onto my bench to gravity transfer to the keg....might have to switch to pressurized transfer...

Edit: This post convinced me. Just pulled the trigger on a 13 gal vittles vault for $38. I figure I can rig up something to push the beer into kegs with CO2 once I get it. Any tips out there?

If you can get them on sale they also aren't too pricey. I got this 50 lb one a few weeks ago for $25 shipped. It holds a 55lb sack no problem.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DJOOI?pc_redir=1413867825&robot_redir=1

For me I just wanted something a bit more sturdy in case it fell off a shelf or something.