Reddit mentions: The best cat grooming supplies

Hair and grooming:

Bunnies need regular brushing to help them with shedding fur. Unlike cats they cannot throw up hairballs and if those do form, they will create a block in their digestive system which is very dangerous. You need to brush several times a week regularly and when shedding heavily every single day.

Sometimes it can be hard to get those silky fine bun hairs. There very best brush I found is this one - it gets all that loose hair out due to the rubber band and might help you a bit https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-HairBuster-Comb/dp/B06ZZXF81G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1545077601&sr=8-2&keywords=furbuster. This brush it worth the cost and will last forever and most buns don't hate it and it's certainly cheaper than ER bills.

A lint roller can also help in between brushing like here https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/cpl8ee/our_brioche_is_oddly_obsessed_with_getting_lint/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/b3cctl/sesame_getting_brushed_as_requested/ - someone on this forum

So what you have to do is not just bush but have a long relaxing petting session to start with. Start by just petting and getting him relaxed. Handfeed a little favorite green. Once he is relaxed try to brush. As you start, keep one hand firmly on his back slightly pushing him down, that usually makes them feel safe and relaxed. Then brush with firm but gently strokes and always with the direction of the fur growth (never against it) after a few strokes as he feels more relaxed you might be able to take the hand away and just prop him up and keep brushing.

Also try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with brushing as a reward will be expected.

Also you can get some silicone brushing gloves that you can start the petting session with before yo move on to the brushing.... it will help him associate the brushing more with being pet, and actually will help you get some hair off before you even use a brush. It's great for just everyday maintenance.

THIS WILL HELP WITH HAIR!

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Litter training:

You have a good set up it seems. I think what you are missing is diligent POSITIVE reinforcement. Try the tips below they work - not like magic but overtime they help.

The key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated so use that to you advantage... Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while - a treat can be a pellet, a small pice of favorite green, etc. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put in the litter box. If you see her make one poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help (though spaying is still a must). Place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box

Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

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Bonding:

To bond with them, spend on the floor with them. They don't hate you but the only way they can get to know you and trust you is if your rally get down on the floor at their level. Do this as much as you can - try eating dinner on the floor with them while they eat also.. I find it works really well.

The right approach is simple - get down on the FLOOR at their level! Cuddles and bonding is really best done on the ground at her level where you feel safe to him. Try to dedicate more time to him on the floor at his level - make him feel safe and like your respect what he likes and doesn't.

What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on his own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with him when you are home and let him out to explore so she can choose to come to you himself. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with him on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let him come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for him if you feel like he is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate his feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time he will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

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They don't mean to hurt you if they nip, likely they are communicating and what they might be saying is that they want more attentions. Give it a try...

I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!

Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.

Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:

• Hands down the best ball for fetch, if he likes fetch
  
• And the launcher I like this one b/c you can just throw it in a backpack and it'll zip all the way closed (I like to keep a backpack w/ my dog's park toys, some treats, poop bags, wet ones/purell, and his shot records) The best thing about the chuck-it is that you don't have to pick up a slobbery ball.
  
• Three very good chew bones
  
• Advantage Multi if you're not often taking him onto tick-heavy hikes. If you need tick control, get Frontline and Interceptor for heartworm.
  
• The best dog frisbee and I've tried a half dozen. Doesn't fly the best, but it's the most durable, safe, and flies great with a little practice.
  
• This Car seat cover is great
  
• Flexi leash is really handy when used appropriately.
  
• Poo bags can never have enough of. and you go through them pretty quick.
  
• Dog backpack great for burning off energy on walks/hikes, and makes them feel like they're doing an important job! I have this one in black. works great.
  
• Collapsible water bowl handy for hikes/camping/outings
  
• european style leather lead (leash) I'm preferential to the feel of leather for leashes/collars. And the european is absolutely the best - adjustable length and super easy to tether them to a pole/fence if you're eating outdoors or running into a store or something (of course use common sense when doing this!)
  
• Harness I'm not a fan of harnesses - they're annoying to put on/take off and just encourage a dog to pull more. But if you want him to pull, towing you on a skateboard or something (my dog loves this) then it's great
  Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
  Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
  *Zukes are great treats for training
  
• Bowls that don't tip over. Easy to wash. can't break. My pick.
  
• Big crate I use for vacations when I bring my dog but need to leave him in a hotel room or something. It's big and bulky but I like to give him room to move around comfortably.
  
• A good shampoo I like hydrosurge unscented but it's not on Amazon =\
  
• deodorizer I give my dog a little spritz between baths if he starts to get funky
  
• A shower head like this makes bathing super painless. I just bring my dog in the shower w/ me along with some treats and it's quick and easy.
  
• a scrubber like this gets my dog cleaner than I can with my hands. I found one at petco I like
  
  
  Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).

1.) Blue: a classic, blue jeans. Need I say more?

2.) Summer: what says summer more than memories of being a kid and making sandcastles? Exactly .

3.) Food related: okay, so this is personal. I am Italian and no one I have ever met has this in their homes. We make our pizzas in normal ovens or just go down the street to one of the many takeaway restaurants. What is a pizza oven and why does anyone need one!

4.) Someone else: I decided to go random wishlist on this and what better way to learn something new about someone that go through their lists?! So I got /u/krispykremedonuts and her wishlists are full of amazing things. And a lot of socks. Someone get this girl some socks! I would get her socks. 😂

5.) Book: you need to read Sum: 40 tales from the afterlives. I recommend this to anyone who would listen. It's 'speculative fiction,' whatever that means, but essentially it's 40 short stories about what may happen after we die. It may sound weird, but seriously, trust me. Read the wiki page of it if you need to be convinced or the Amazon product description. It really makes you think and sticks with you!

6.) Under $1: This was hard! But I found the cutest mini-pens. One dollar, free shipping, AND adorable. BAM!

7.) Dogs: I've been considering getting this fancy brush. It's supposed to be super good for dogs with long hair!

8.) Not useful but awesome: Okay, so I have been obsessed with the idea of being able to print photos from my phone since forever. Useful? Most definitely not, awesome...HECK YES! Check this out!!!


9.) Movie: Life is Beautiful. It's about selfless love. It's beautiful and I can't speak more about it without bursting into tears. If you've seen it, you know what I'm talking about. If you haven't seen it, WATCH IT. It's incredibly beautiful and moving.

10.) Zombies: You definitely need a machete to defend yourself. This is even sharp on both sides!!!

11.) Needs and current goals: At this moment in my life, any sort of clothing would change my life because there is only so much sewing you can do before your clothes start looking very sad. BUT, since it has to do with current goals, a pair of workout leggings would really help in my workout goals! I've lost 3kg in the past 3 months! It's not a lot, but damn I'm SO happy :D :D :D

12.) Add-On item: Oh, add-ons...groans

13.) Fandom: CAW!

14.) So expensive: $11,703.38 carpet cleaner. I don't even know. But at least it has free shipping!

15.) Sharks: temporary tattoos!

16.) Good smells: I adore the smell of rosemary.

17.) Toy: I absolutely loved my jump rope. I had the red one! I got super good at it and my friends and I would jump rope together around the neighborhood like a bunch of weirdos. Such good memories though :D

18.) Writers: never underestimate the need of coffee in any job you may have.

19.) Current obsession: so it's almost summer and I am obsessing over which ankle bracelet I want. I feel naked without them. It's a problem 😂

20.) Random: this is what I got one of my last contest winners. I saw it on one of their wishlists and couldn't resist!!!

congratz !! :D

Our siberian favorite toy is this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075SZCLZR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He absolutely LOVES it, he hides, he plays, he plots against us in there, the wrinkly sound make it super fun for him, and it's extremely robust couldn't find a single tear even with him putting is claw through it.

for a cat tree, it's better that you invest more money in a basic one, than paying for a cheap huge tree, siberian are BIG cats that LOVES to climb and jump and he will throw himself on it and you don't want an accident happening. Molyy and friends does amazing tree, we bought this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OSIJA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It think he would have love one that his higher than this one but they get pricier, He's spending 80% of his time on it. the top bunk is his bed, he love to run and jump through the loop, playing pick a boo in there, and it comes with the scratching post that is high enough for him to stretch plainly.

this brush is a must have, not a choice YOU NEED IT, Siberian need good brushing often to avoid painful matted fur, get him use to being brush EVERYWHERE very young (especially the butt, and under his "armpits")
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0040QS3PO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best laser toy ever. you don't have to keep your finger on the button for it to work, it's super bright, and the cat will recognized the toy when he sees it before of it's bright color. we just need to say " Gaspachio wanna play ?" and show him the paws and he starts puring and getting ready to hunt. Make sure to train him to play with laser when he's young by rewarding it at the end of a session with a treat and making him stop on toy (so he has the feeling for catching something) after a few month he will have understand that the red dot CANNOT be catch, it's just fun to run after, and you won't have any mental issue with the cat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074Q2YK3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This window bed is super strong, at first we though he didn't like it because we didn't saw him on it, then we realized he's always on it during the day when we're not home. And when we start pulling the curtain over it he starts going even more often since it's an "hidden place"
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely NEVER feed you cat with crap cheap brand, if you can afford a 1k cat you can afford good food and treat for it. and brush his teeth regularly.

Also, plenty of soft hugs <3

So precious! If he's your first, I really recommend a few things if that's ok! Amazon/ ebay links but products can be found elsewhere.

Watch My Cat From Hell - it's FULL of good ideas and knowledge, despite the cable TV format.

Harness and leash train your cat asap. Not only can you then take them for walks (which takes a couple years to do but is well worth it), being ok with a harness and leash will make him way easier to travel with and take to the vet.

Cat backpacks are easier than cat carriers; I like the solid rectangular ones best.



Check out robot toys that your cat can play with on their own, as well as bouncer toys (basically a long wire with a little cardboard thingy on each end that you can wedge somewhere for them to play with.

Couple of things mine love:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



A cat tree next to a window with a bird feeder outside (you can get ones that stick onto your window) will make them very happy. Note on cat trees - I got a really good deal on ebay recently, and the same cat trees were way more expensive on Amazon - I totally recommend checking ebay for cost comparison on this. They were like 30-40% cheaper.

He looks like he's going to be a floof. I recommend these two brushes - the first is for removing extra hair every so often in the summer months, the second is a general daily brush (I just keep them in the powder room seeing as my cats insist on going to the bathroom with me anyway). This seriously reduces the amount of hair all over your home. We barely have cat hair on anything aside from their regular spots on cat furniture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWCRFUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YIWUXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they do turn out to be floofy, watch out for them seeming bit light/ skinny in hot weather - they can get dehydrated, and this is a real life-shortener. Avoid cheap cat treats, which tend to be too salty (Temptations/ Dreamies etc) get the vet recommended sort.

My cats also love this fountain (we've gotten them three and this is the top pick and the easiest to use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TY5D6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Learn to trim his claws yourself - you'll save your furniture. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RJM8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Congratulations! Our siberian is about 1.5 years old now and has been an incredible cat and great experience for us. Here's a couple points from my perspective and experience:

1. Establish a consistent feeding schedule and plan for how you'll approach food with your kitten. Your breeder should be able to help with this - understand what food to start them on initially, how frequently and when to give them food, and then in the next 6-9 months where you're trying to take them food wise (off kitten food, to what kind of feeding plan). Changes in diet can impact their stomachs and behavior so it's good to have a plan here.
   
   
2. Change their litter box daily. Having this clean will help ensure the kitten uses it. I've never had any issues with our kitten on this which is a great breed trait.
   
   
3. Get a good combing comb for grooming. You'll want one that is specific for dematting, they tend to get matts in their fur due to their long coats. Something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Safari-Pet-Products-W563-Shedding/dp/B0002AQUSE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523036227&sr=8-3&keywords=cat+comb. You'll also likely want to find a local cat groomer as their matting may require an occasional grooming and this will avoid any issues with their litter box and long fur as well. We have ours groomed on a 3x per year cadence and have found a groomer that will come to our house which is nice.
   
   
4. Early on, if you're bringing just one kitten home, give them a ton of attention. Siberians are very social and will look to be around you all the time and to ensure the kitten develops to be social and friendly i'd recommend adhering to this. Between my wife and i and our 2 roommates, for the first 3 months or so we tried to have someone with the kitten at all times more or less. Get some good toys - a mix of bird like toys (with feathers on a string) and balls they can chase are likely best. They all love this thing too: https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523036334&sr=1-6&keywords=cat+toy
   
   
5. After 1-2 weeks at home, gradually begin to increase their interaction with
   strangers and introduce them to people. This worked well with our kitten to make him very social and unafraid of visitors at our home.
   
   Those are my thoughts! Feel free to post any specific questions as they arise.

Ok, I can't lie: they do shed if not brushed regularly. However the shedding isn't nearly as much as a dog like a retriever or a husky. Their fur is very bunny like so it doesn't really show on furniture or clothing. The people who really complain about their shedding (after readings hundreds of Ragdoll forum pages!) are the ones that have 4, 5, even 6 of them! With one or two it's not that noticeable. I bought a furminator and it's godsend! It's the best when it comes to removing loose hair, you'll be amazed at how much hair comes out.
As for your allergies: I was very allergic to cat hair to the point where my face would look swollen if I entered a room with a cat. I found a product on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S0L0M4/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00 It works great you can see people's reviews on how effective it is. In a few words it neutralizes the allergens. Another very important thing that I didn't know before getting a cat: It doesn't matter if you get a long or short hair cat because the major allergen that people react to doesn't come from their hair, it comes from their saliva. Some allergens also come from dead skin but the great majority comes from their saliva. Since every cat licks themselves several times a day, they pretty much have the allergens all over them, making it seem as if it's from the fur. So we could get a hairless cat and would still suffer from allergies. Trust me this product when applied about once a week REALLY works. As time goes by your body builds a little immunity to the allergen since you are constantly around it. I'm at a point now that I only have to apply the product once every 2-3 weeks.
Sorry for the long responses, I get very excited when talking about Raggies. They are truly loving, sweet, gentle creatures. The staff at our vet's office is always so surprised at how laid back they are, as cats can become very agitated and defensive when going to the vet.
Ok I'm really done talking about them now :) Good luck and feel free to ask anything!

I'm kind of a new cat owner myself, but that said I remember looking for a cat pretty recently :)

Typically shorter hair cats shed less, but my domestic short-hair still sheds more then I expected. Regular grooming with a good brush (my Furminator is amazing) keeps my lap pretty much hair free after petting sessions.

I wouldn't worry too much about the washing thing. Any smell associated with having a cat around is typically coming from the litter box, not the cat, and that can be controlled to some degree by changing the litter more frequently and putting it in another room. Unless they get into something, his/her regular grooming should keep her pretty clean. My cat hates it, but do give her a bath every 3-4 weeks mostly because I love how soft shampoo makes her fur.

As long as you try to make your house a nice place for a cat to live (toys, scratching post, maybe even a cat tree) cats can do very well being inside only. Without toys and something to exercise their claws on they can terrorize your stuff and your furniture though so be careful.

There is some correlation between breeds and personalities, and I did a TON of research before I went out to look for a cat, but what it really comes down to is the individual animal you end up getting. If you are adopting from an animal shelter (they have lots of great animals at least here in the states) just talk to the people that work there. They typically love the animals a lot and working with them everyday gives them a lot of insight into each of their personalities. I went to the shelter trying to get a particular kitten I found on their website, but he wouldn't come out to see us and was all around pretty grumpy. I talked to the shelter workers and explained what I was looking for, they introduced me to Winkie, and wouldn't trade her back for anything :)

I figured since I've never taken my dog to a groomer I may be able to help with this. I'm not a professional groomer at all and the equipment is expensive but I figured that if it's going to cost me $80+ every time I take her to the groomer then the expensive equipment pays for itself in no time. The thing is, it does take forever and I personally recommend having a second person to help you only because I've never done it alone and can't imagine how long it would take if I did. The other thing too is that it will depend on your pup. Have you spent time getting them used to being handled or learning to basically hold still while you groom them? I knew this would be important for me and my pup was exposed to blow dryers, scissors, and the electric razor regularly from the moment I got her at 8 weeks. I have regularly trimmed her nails since she was a pup too so she is very used to being handled. I also taught her that if I'm working on her fur (when she was a young pup I would use a comb and brush regularly for this) she is to hold still. I didn't give her her first real hair cut until she was 8 months but she was already used to the strange sounds and holding still by that point. Before the 8 month mark I did trim her paws and around her eyes though.

If your pup isn't patient with you, its going to be a challenge and may not be worth it. Mine holds still for everything and it still takes my husband and I about 3 hours to get the job done. That said, here is my process.

The first time we groomed her it was awful and it took us almost 6 hours start to finish. This was because her fur had a lot of mats. If you can't get a regular comb through the fur then you aren't going to get the trimmers through either. So taking them to the groomer first is probably a good idea to stick with because they will handle the mats and such for you that first time. After that, you need to keep up with the grooming regularly (mine is groomed every 6 weeks) in order to make the process easier for yourself because the mats won't come back if the fur is trimmed regularly so it won't be an issue. The other issue we had the first time was that we tried to use these and they really didn't work out. They would snag in her fur, they also seemed to kinda push her fur down and out of the way so that it wouldn't get cut. It was just a huge waste of time trying to use them and now we just use this blade directly and it works perfectly.

So basically this is our process. We use a regular folding table because you do not want to do this on the floor. We did it on the floor the first time and it was awful on our backs so you want to be standing. One of us is always holding her so that she will not fall off of the table and we take turns trimming her fur going along with the grain. Be sure to check the trimmers temperature regularly because they can get hot. When they get hot, set them down and use the down time to trim the paws, face, tail, or ears with scissors or comb out any mats that may be in the way (we no longer have a problem with mats since she is groomed regularly). Once the blade is cool again continue trimming the entire body, taking breaks to cool down as needed and repeat the scissor trim every time the clipper needs to cool. We trim everything with the electric clippers except for around the eyes, ears, snout, tail, paw pads, and around the paws. Those extra areas are scissors only for us but you can do whatever you like. After her entire body is trimmed we switch to the shorter blade and trim her sanitary areas. We like the poo area to be extra short in order to avoid the dingleberries. You can also use the short blade to help with trimming around the paw pads. Finally, after everything is cut she gets a bath and blow dry.

It really is a lot of work but we both think that the 2-3 hours we spend doing it is worth it over the cost of a groomer. But it's definitely not for everyone and I also think it depends on the dog. If the dog won't cooperate it's going to make it that much more time consuming and difficult. Here is a list of all of the grooming tools I use:

• Andis Detachable Blade Clipper - For all of the trimming that doesn't use scissors.
  
• 3 3/4 Blade - For most of the body, switch to the short blade that comes with the clippers for the sanitary regions and around paw pads.
  
• Scissors - I use these for everything that needs to be trimmed with scissors. I like that they have the ball tip making them less pokey.
  
• Thinning Shears - Not required but they do help make her snout and tail less choppy looking after they've been cut with regular scissors.
  
• De-matting Comb - This has been a must for me! It is great at getting out those mats.
  
• Comb - I recommend having a regular comb. If this comb can't get through then your clippers won't either.
  
• Blow Dryer - I don't know if it's absolutely required to blow dry after baths but I do and I recommend getting a powerful one.
  
• Shower Hose - Not required but I use this for her in my shower and it has made bath time much easier.
  
  I think that covers everything, I may be forgetting something but that's all I've got for now. If you do decide to do it just make sure you have a decent time block for it since it may take a while. Good luck!
  
  Also, here are some pictures of my pup right after being groomed with the clipper size I've mentioned above.

Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!

One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!

Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.

You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.

For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.

For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.

Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(

We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!

Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!

Whew lad. Sounds like you're in for a bad time but don't let me tell you how to live your life. I'll try to help you as much as possible, but I'll tell you right now that you're better off spending the money you'd be blowing on professional grade tools (which are absolutely necessary on a Newfie, those are one of the breeds you can't cheap out on, even for home grooms) on having a professional groom your dog instead. Newfies are a challenge even for professionals, taking 3+ hours to groom even with all the tools and experience available to them.

All that said, you're going to want to get a good shampoo and conditioner. I personally really like the Espree brand for shampoos, especially the hypo shampoo, because it's gentle on dog's skin and this particular brand still smells good. I recommend the Furminator conditioner. When you're washing your dog, you're going to want to really make sure you're working the shampoo and conditioner all the way down to the skin. Do shampoo first, rinse thoroughly, then conditioner, and rinse forever because holy hell it's gonna take a while to get all that out.

I'm just gonna tell you to not even bother with the hair dryer. That sounds like an exercise in futility. You're probably just going to want to wash your dog one day and then cut the hair the next when it's dry.

You can brush your dog's hair when it's wet, but I caution you to be extra gentle and to be sure to keep an eye on the skin to make sure it's not turning red. If it is, stop immediately (and possibly reconsider your decision to groom at home-- if the coat is in bad enough shape that you're irritating the skin by brushing, you probably need to see a professional). In addition to a slicker brush, undercoat rake, and greyhound comb, I would get one of [these] (https://smile.amazon.com/Matting-Dematting-Detangler-Grooming-Pet/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=safari+mat+remover+for+dogs&qid=1558802854&s=gateway&sprefix=Safari+mat&sr=8-3). It's great for breaking up mats and loosening undercoat, but a word of caution: they are extremely sharp and you will cut yourself badly on it if you're not careful. Fortunately they're designed such that you're much more likely to cut yourself than your dog.

Assuming that your dog is now thoroughly washed, dry, and brushed out, you're going to want to take your clippers and put an attachment comb on them. I prefer the Wahl stainless steel set. You can buy the combs individually, as well. You can put your comb on over the #10 blade that comes with the clippers, or a #15 or #30 for a cleaner cut. Then you just go to town. I very strongly recommend against going no shorter than 3/4" (that's an A comb in the Wahl set). Anything shorter than that is going to ruin your dog's coat. (So don't do a #10 blade either, for the love of god). Use a decent set of grooming scissors to clean up the clipper work when you're done.

I hope that helps. Good luck!

I've had cats all my life, and have quite a few now, so I'll answer, in case OP doesn't get to it.

Cats acclimate pretty easily to whatever schedule you have. They're going to sleep around 20 hours a day either way. It's totally possible to get a cat that acts out if left alone, but I think statistically, your odds are in favor of getting a cat that's cool while you're at work. I've never had a lone cat before, though, so I don't know if that increases their loneliness. Any chance you could get a pair? It's much better if they're already familiar with each other, as some cats get along, and others don't. Either way, it's more likely that your cat, even a lone one will be fine while you're at work, as long as you socialize with it when you get home and before you leave.

There are on occasion really chill dogs, and really high-strung cats, but more often than not, yes, cats are more chill than dogs.

Good! Definitely don't leave your cat alone while you're deployed. My cats don't scratch my furniture. They do, however have scratching posts, and also love to scratch door frames and my wicker hamper. If they're scratching something that I don't want them too, I shoo them away gently, and they get the hint, and go scratch something else. This can be solved pretty easily too, by clipping their claws, or getting them claw caps. Please never declaw a cat, as it is mutilation for their first toe digits.

All of that being said, it's really the luck of the draw whether you get a cat with a few behavior problems, or one that's calm and works well with you. Even behavioral problems have remedies. I would strongly suggest getting an adult cat, even one a bit older (5+), as their personalities by that point are well-defined, and you can a good idea of how they'll work out.

My bully is also 7! We use Earthbath shampoo. I'd recommend these Keto-C Antiseptic wipes if he has any skin fold irritation. You might want to try a fish oil to add to his food; that should help his hair and they just love it. My pup has some arthritis and hip dysplasia, so we give him a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement. He has a bit of a grain sensitivity so he eats Rachel Ray Just Six. I keep Benadryl on hand (vet approved) because it helps when he gets seasonal allergies. Get some dog toothpaste and a brush; it really does help. My pup loves any kind of dental bones, also. Keep an eye out for a head tilt or unusual ear wax/discharge as bullies can be prone to ear infections. Make sure he wears a harness (we've used a cheap roman harness for years but recently got this harness) and take good care of his neck- my boy has recently been dealing with a prolapsed intervertebral disk, which is caused by normal play like tug of war and fetch, jumping off the couch, going up and down stairs, and generally having a huge head. So now we play very carefully, carry him on stairs, and have him on an anti-inflammatory. He uses a raised feeding dish to prevent strain. We also put a little tennis ball in his food to make him eat slowly (he has a tendency to eat too fast and throw up). I use Argan oil and petroleum jelly on his nose when it gets dry.
I'm sure he'll let you know his taste in treats and toys soon, but my buddy likes antler chews, Busy Bones, and all stuffed animals. Rawhides make him throw up. Congratulations and good luck!

Here's a great foldable carrier. I love this thing. Doesn't take up a bunch of space when not in use and is really sturdy.

I bought a bed and my cat never uses it. She would rather snooze on a window sill or a pillow. You never know what they will like.

As for toys, cats like all different things. Mine isn't into balls, but she loves these little soft mice toys. I get them for $1 and I have a bunch stashed because she loses them. I also have one of these, my cat likes it because she can lay down and still play with the ball. You just have to experiment. Boxes are always good.


Make sure you provide something for scratching. My cat enjoys the cardboard scratchers much more than an expensive carpeted one I got. Positive reinforcement for using something to scratch and move them from the area if they're scratching on something inappropriate. Always provide an alternative. One last thing, if you find your kitties nails are becoming an issue, I've had great success with trimming and capping my cats nails with vinyl nail caps.

=) we love to help fellow kitty owners!

I have found that if you play with your kittys paws while they are very sleepy or asleep you'll have a much easier time clipping their nails as they get older. Of course, I always recommend nail grinding over clipping because its smoother, lasts longer and it tickles vs pinches however, shes a baby and that will take some training!

get lots of toys! and play with her often. remember, just like your puppies need walk and play time, she does too! you can even train a cat to talk on a leash so you can take her with you on your walks with the dogs.

i have found my cat likes moving water and will absolutely NOT drink water from a bowl or anything thats sitting still. I use this fountain instead. Makes for happy kitty. hydration is very important!

as others have said, scratching posts are important. don't forget your flea, tick, and heartworm medications. Also, kitties should be brushed. My cat is scared of brushes so I use this which he adores and gets very excited when he sees it.

dogs like to eat cat poop for whatever unexplainable reason. please do yourself a favor and invest in a closed litter box sorta like this. its worth it!!

I have what we think is a Great Pyr mix (her wisdom panel was submitted last week) but she definitely has pyr-like long flowing fur with a wooly undercoat. I think I own like 5 different brushes/combs, but her favorite and the one that keeps her looking nice are the slickers (I recommend getting one that deposits the fur off of it like this one. To get at the undercoat most efficiently though, my favorite is the Shed Monster. It really gets to that soft wooly undercoat and gets a lot out at a time. The Furminator does okay, but not as well as the Shed Monster in my experience. We do also use an undercoat rake as you mentioned, but I feel like it doesn't do as good of a job of consolidating the fur and kind of gets it all over. Hope this helps!

Edit: Just saw your pup tax. They look just like my girl!

This is absolutely correct. I have a new kitten and I clip his claws a little once every 2 weeks, just the very end. I use this surgical steel scissor-like clippers -Ultimate Touch Cat Claw Clipper, and they work great. I was told to get the scissor type over the other kind because you can control them better. They're great. As long as you get your kitty in a calm state (1/2 napping) and give him treats & lots of love, he'll be fine. Google image where the quick stops and then you'll feel more confident about doing it. Also spraying a strong perfume (I use victory secret body spray) or a citrus scent on anything you don't want him to go on will help keep him off scratching unwanted surfaces. Great book: Outsmarting Cats is an amazing book, to the point with super good tips and resources that work. Highly recommend.

A picture with you wearing shoes and a dress shirt would have helped a little though, but...

-- The sleeves need to come up quite a bit.

-- Shoulders look good, and it seems to fit assuming there isn't too much excess room in the chest area.

-- Jacket is a LITTLE short, but that's acceptable. I'm a shorter dude so I also prefer a shorter jacket.

-- Pants DEFINITELY need to be hemmed


-- Can you get away with the shoes? yeah, you can. you aren't wearing an ill-fitting rented tux so you'll already be doing better than half the guys there

-- Are the shoes your best option? definitely not. plain black cap toes would be a better alternative, and you'd probably get more mileage out of them if you buy quality


-- Shirt color? White. Spread or semi-spread color. If you have the budget, buy a quality dress shirt and you'll get a lot of mileage out of it.

-- Black necktie. Keep it simple and learn how to tie a proper half-windsor or full-windsor knot and you'll look awesome

-- DON'T WEAR A BOW TIE. A bow tie would only make sense if you were wearing a full tuxedo, wearing one with a black suit makes it look like you're trying to trick people into thinking you're wearing a tuxedo.


-- Cat? Don't give her a bath. Use cat wipes. I use these on my cat and she doesn't seem to mind!

Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few suggestions I can make.


2. Make grooming easy with bribes! Healthy treats like Catty Shack or Greenies make Brush Time easier for both parties.


3. A lot of professional groomers charge an arm and a leg for cats (because of their arms and legs), so do the grooming yourself! You will need a Furminator, nail clippers, and cleansing wipes. Groom often, and invest in a scratching post.


4. As long as you are using a tool for grooming cats (i.e.: Furminator) you don't have to worry about overdoing it. Brush as thoroughly as you can, and stop when your brush starts coming out clean (or nearly free of loose hairs).


5. General tips: Buy the best food your budget allows. Preferably wet food, or a diet half wet food and half dry food. Go grain free, like Merrick and/or Soulistic. For a healthy, shiny coat I would recommend Pet Naturals' Daily Best; And to reduce hairballs, Hairball. Don't use hairball remedies that contain petroleum jelly, it will give your baby the runs :(

EDIT: Formatting

I used to be terribly allergic to cats, but with a combination of drugs and anti-allergen products I hardly ever get any symptoms from my two cats. Some drugs work well for certain people and others don't work at all. You just have to try them until you find what works for you, but here are some of the common ones:

Loratadine (Claritin), cetirizine (Zyrtec), and fexofenadine (Allegra). These are newer antihistamines that are supposedly non-drowsy and last all day. I take cetirizine since loratadine doesn't seem to do anything for me and fexofenadine costs about twice as much.

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) and chlorpheniramine. These are older antihistamines that work differently than the three mentioned above. I find them to be much more effective, but they only last a few hours and make me sleepy. Useful if you get allergic before going to bed. Oh and here's a tip: if you're buying generic diphenhydramine, look in both the allergy section and the sleep-aid section. The same exact drug is sold as allergy relief and as a sleep-aid, and sometimes one is cheaper than the other.

Cromolyn nasal spray (NasalCrom). This drug works by preventing the release of histamine in the first place, so it's best when taken prior to cat exposure. For me, this is the most effective one since most of symptoms are in the nose. It's also safe to use in combination with other allergy medicines.

In addition to medication, there are products you can buy that reduce the amount of cat allergen in the home:

ADS Anti-allergen Spray can stain some fabrics, so they make a different formula that doesn't stain but requires more frequent application.

Allerpet C is a solution that you can apply to your cat to make her less allergenic.

And I'm sure there are many more. Brushing your cat regularly can reduce shedding, which should help with allergies since cats lick themselves and the Fel d 1 protein comes from the saliva. I recommend a FURminator.

If you are planning on getting a cat, you might want to look into the different cat breeds as some are less allergenic than others. I've also read that on average female cats and cats with lighter coloured fur tend to be less allergenic, although I'm not sure if this is definitively true.

And even if none of this works, I'd say that having cats is worth putting up with a few allergies!

Hi there. I'm not sure if it is the same for all breeds. I had a Pyrenees and we had two mats saved out and that never grew back. There was a lot of debate about it when I was looking if it grew back or not for pyrs. Some said theirs grew back just fine others said it never grows back at all.

I do know that the furminator is damaging to the top coat regardless of it growing back or not. I never recommend it for any dog with two coats, but if the dog has only one then I think it's a fantastic tool.

I linked to what I used in my last comment, it worked great was durable, survived my pup chewing on it for a few minutes too.

I'm told that slicker brushes work great for removing undercoats, stainless steel combs too, my groomer used a combination of tools for my pup.

Here's links to what they used

https://www.amazon.com/Andis-2-Inch-Steel-Comb-65730/dp/B004UTDHP2/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA

https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=zg_bs_2975366011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WXPAQEGMAZBGCYFVXDRA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0WOME4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480770&sr=1-11&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUABBQS/ref=mp_s_a_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1494480894&sr=1-71-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pet+brushes+for+dogs&psc=1

I thought it was a lot of different tools myself, but it's hard to argue the results because he came out looking fantastic Everytime.

I removed the undercoat myself, which the two ladies really appreciated, with just the comb but never made him look as good as they did.

My doodle has tight curls as well. I use a slicker brush, a wide tooth comb and a dematting comb for matts that can’t be brushed out. These are the tools I use
Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jLorDbT0ZDW58

OmniPet Leather Brothers Cocker/Poodle Wooden Handle Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E71QEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lMorDb60BC8E5

Safari De-Matting Comb for Dogs, Pet Supplies for Dogs, Dog Grooming, Dog Gifts, Dog Accessories, Dog Supplies, Dog Brushes for Shedding https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMorDb1BAJBTH

I really love the Chris Christensen slicker brush, it’s pricey but the quality is great. It has long firm pins and the tips are soft, so it won’t hurt your doodle. Also it’s highly recommended for doodle coats. It’s best to get a slicker with long firm pins to really get down to the skin. I then follow up with the wide tooth comb to check for any missed tangles. I prefer to use the wide tooth comb because it’s not harsh on the coat and does not cause hair breakage. I rarely use the dematting tool, because I usually can get matts out with the slicker brush, but for the really tough ones I use it sparingly. You should never use a furminator, it’s harsh on the coat and skin, it can damage it. Also I supplement fish oil in my dog’s diet and I’ve noticed his coat is much more shiny and softer. The fish oil I feed is the from the brand fera pet organics. Also I really think it helps to have your doodle on a grooming schedule such as every 5 to 6 weeks, especially with super tight curls. Also be sure to brush and properly dry when ever your doodle gets wet. Might be a good idea to invest in a high velocity dog blow dryer. There’s some great affordable ones on amazon. Brushing your doodle twice or even three times a week is ideal.

I'm really glad to hear things have improved. Yes, it's very likely he needed time to adjust to his new home. With any luck he will continue to improve over time.

Are you going away over the holidays? I ask because you said he got more destructive after your trip this spring.

This product might help with his scratching at the carpet outside the door.

Does he have any scratchers near the sofa? It's great that he stops now when you tell him to, but you could take it a step further and redirect him to the scratcher with lots of praise when he uses it. Even if he already has scratchers elsewhere, sometimes it really helps to put one right next to the object they're scratching, since they apparently feel the need to mark their territory in that particular area.

Do you trim his nails regularly? If not, that can help control the amount of damage. There are also nail covers that you can try.

>sometimes it really is like it's some kind of attention seeking behaviour.

One of my cats (the passive one I mentioned before) will tap me with her front paw to get attention, which sounds ok except when she gets really anxious (or hungry), she'll follow me constantly, getting underfoot and repeatedly tapping my legs and screeching, and if I can't deal with her directly, she will begin adding a scrape with her claws when she taps. Is he doing something like that?

Oh, one more thought: he might like the toys that dispense kibbles or treats. That would be another thing to try for when he's alone during the day. If you're not familiar with them, it takes work (both physical and mental) for the cat to get the treat out of the toy, which helps satisfy cats' hunting instinct.

I was struggling with mats in my shih for a while and then settled on a decent routine that has kept him mat-free for the last few months. I keep his hair grown out to some degree, but not to the floor (yet).

I brush every other day for around 30 min with this comb:
www.target.com/p/comb-pet-grooming-tool---up-up--153-/-/A-52305812

It isn't the greatest quality, but I like the design and it gets daily maintenance done. If you want a higher quality comb, maybe consider the style and order a better one?

When he gets mats (it's really wet and snowy where I live and he usually gets one or two a week from running in the snow), I like this brush:
Safari De-matting Comb
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is basically a curvy one sided blade, so read the directions if you end up trying! It is kind of sharp. My dog doesn't care for this one, but it is so efficient at removing mats I have been convincing him with treats when using it haha.

I have found the best technique is to brush daily to every other day at the latest. I was shocked by how few mats he gets now with the every other day routine. It takes a long time the first few brushes, but once in the habit and mostly mat free, it goes pretty quickly.

Hope this helps!

Great Danes typically have a very thin/fine coat. Most that I've seen have hardly any hair on their underbellies/genital areas so unfortunately I'd say what you see is probably what you get.

As for Josie, I'm not too sure. I work for a family that has a Boston that had to have minor surgery on his tail so they had to shave his tail/around his butt and it did grow back after a few months. It may depend on what caused the hair loss as well. Obviously she didn't get a vaccine on her tail, but some vaccine injection sites can cause permanent hair loss, so if it was a chemical substance that caused it it may not grow back. That would be something I'd ask the vet about if you were really curious.

I own a long hair cat and I rescued and rehomed a pretty matted Himalayan once. With cat skin you have to be very careful because their skin is paper thin. Is your comb like a fine toothed steel comb? For cats I like combs that have different length teeth like this I have a similar style one for my cat.

Whenever there is a breed specific issue I'd also recommend looking for a persian cat forum or facebook group and see what other owners do/use, especially people that breed and show their Persians. I actually know three cocker people with Persians and they groom/bathe their cats as much as they do their show cockers. Persians are definitely high maintenance cats that require speciality grooming care.

Firstly, make sure to post pictures when you bring him/her home!

Siamese cats are very smart, and that means they bore easily. My kitten (~9mo) loves to play fetch or with the feathers on a stick because we are interacting with him and paying attention to him while he plays. But really, each of my Siamese cats (like all cats) has had his or her own favorite toy, so get little things here and there as you see them and just note what yours likes! These are my kitten's favorite. He is seriously obsessed. I get them much cheaper from a pet store near where I live. But my older guy prefers these, which I find at Wal-Mart.

I would suggest making a "warm box" with a heating pad under a soft blanket and maybe something over the top so you kitten can hide in a warm and cozy place, especially when he/she is stressed out after the move.

Another thing that I would consider an essential is some sort of perch for your cat to get up off the ground and observe the room, like a cat condo or something similar. I made one out of scrap wood and carpet, so it doesn't have to break the bank. :)

SCRATCHING POSTS! I personally do not have the patience for putting the little nail caps on them, but I find that if they have different options for scratching, they resort to the furniture less.

I am so excited for you! Your new kitten will have a great and loving home and your life will never be the same, I promise!

ETA link to nail caps

I thought this post did a fairly good job talking about costs.

A couple of notes: Please, for your sanity and the health of the kitten, spay her when appropriate. Unlike dogs, cats go into heat monthly until they become pregnant. During their heat they are loud, needy, and trying to escape to find a mate. Especially at night. Cats have a lot more health problems when they aren't spayed like Pyometra. I've read dogs need to wait until after their first heat, but this is untrue for cats. Most vets try to do it before the cat's first heat.

Also, please don't declaw your kitty. If you can start her early trimming their nails isn't hard and you can ask the vet to show you how. If her scratching is bad you can use soft claws which make it impossible for them to destroy things. We get a completely flat scratch box thing from walmart for like $10 that we can flip and it's pretty much the only thing she scratches.

Other things: All window blind strings are now toys. We tie ours up/ hide them behind the blinds so that our little lady can't mess with them.

Cats love to be higher up than you. I'm in a super small space so this cat tree is perfect for us. She can survey her kingdom without it taking up valuable floor space.

She ignores her bed at this point. Oh well.

Keep any of your supplies that are small enough to eat or toxic out of reach. Strings can be very dangerous for kitties too if ingested.

Good luck :)

This is random, but kind of cool in my opinion. I brush my cat with his brush I have now and then I'm stuck with no idea how to actually get the hair out of the brush..I usually end up using a bobby pin or something. But look at this awesome thing that makes it super easy to do. How fun, right? bahaha. Umm also, I've had this on my wl for a while but I think it's a very good way to watch what you eat. I've gotten a lot better at it but portions are my hardest thing to get a hang of and this is supposed to help with that. Thanks for the contest!

My 1 year old Havanese has never been cut. We put his hair up with a hair tie so it's not in his eyes and he gets a bath once a week, brushed nightly, and sees a professional bi weekly.

This is the brush I use, Its pretty standard.

Here's the de-matting tool - This is a super important piece to the home grooming puzzle. It will allow you trim the matts into smaller matts that can be brushed out. I highly recommend watching several youtube videos of people using it so you don't hurt your little guy.

Detangling spray - I use this at every brushing. I use one hand to push his hair up and i pat and swoop the hair down to make sure I get every little hair on his body. It's a process.

and finally Leave-on conditioner - I give him baths with a 2 in 1 puppy shampoo and then i use this leave-on conditioner. Hydrated hair knots less so using as much moisturizers as you can will help.

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I understand I spend a lot of time and money on my dogs hair, but for me, I wasn't going to spend thousands of dollars on a purebred to just shave him. I want my purebred to look like a purebred and he's the happiest boy ever! I hope this helps!

I'm allergic to cats, so I'll share a couple of things that helped me live with two cats for several years.

Wash them every week or so, not because cats need baths every week, but because it will greatly reduce the amount of allergens deposited on furniture, the floor, and in the air. I used a mild puppy/kitten shampoo for mine, or sometimes even johnson & johnson's no more tears shampoo.

Get a furminator. There are also off-brands. It's not battery operated or anything, but it's the only grooming tool/brush I needed or used.

If he can keep them out of his bedroom, that would be ideal.

If he can afford it, whether he has carpet or hardwood, a roomba is absolutely wonderful. It'll self vacuum the carpets/floors every day and that'll keep a lot of allergens out of the air. If not, vacuuming/sweeping daily is a good idea.

Didn't mean to go on a tangent, but some of those tips might help a lil'.

Take care, and your friend rocks :)