Reddit mentions: The best ceramic & pottery tools

What a nice friend you are! I am a sculptor (professional stuff and hobby stuff) and while there are lots of items you can use to make little sculptures and junk model, I'm going to suggest a few that are hard to go wrong with. These are general suggestions, the brands are things I've used but there are many others. Paperclay is an air dry clay, fun to use, versatile. It can be sanded smoother, painted, etc. Super sculpey is a clay you bake, won't dry as you work, can be sculpted a bit more precisely (but don't bake with anything that will melt in the oven.) Sculpey can be painted as well. It comes in tiny packages of different colors, but I usually have more success using the Super Sculpey "flesh" color (usually fresher than the tiny packages) and just paint it. You might pick one of the two based on your knowledge of friend's interest? I linked a tool kit with some good basics. I literally use about 3 of these tools on a regular basis, and a few others occasionally. Don't go overboard here. Made a wire suggestion, whatever you want here. Mesh is fun for modeling, it can be part of armature, it can be an external part of the model, it shapes well. Most hobby and craft stores have these items, as well as Amazon. Oh, another thought is maybe a book! There are so many, just search with key words like clay sculpture, modeling figures, etc. Any combo of items would be a lovely gift, you are a sweet friend!

Tools

[https://www.amazon.com/Sculpt-Pro-Pottery-Tool-Starter/dp/B00CTTLZOA/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=sculpting+tool+kit&qid=1573610099&sr=8-11]

Paperclay

[https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Paper-clay-Ounces-White/dp/B001V8E7MW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3K2BJF9CM3XJE&keywords=paperclay+air+dry&qid=1573610303&sprefix=Paperclay%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3]

Wire

[https://www.amazon.com/TecUnite-Aluminum-Flexible-Armature-Thickness/dp/B07BQMMF58/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3IALD05H02KIV&keywords=sculpting+wire+for+clay&qid=1573610433&sprefix=sculpting+wire%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-13]

Wire Mesh

[https://www.amazon.com/AMACO-AMA50004D-Aluminum-Wire-Metal/dp/B00114TFAK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sculpting+mesh&qid=1573610539&sr=8-4]

A Book I like

[https://www.amazon.com/Fantastic-Figures-Ideas-Techniques-Using/dp/0914881000/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Fantastic+figures&qid=1573613535&sr=8-2]

I'm a noob but no one else has said anything:

Material:

For larger figures you'll probably want some sort of clay as opposed to epoxies like green stuff/ graystuff/ milliput. ( https://www.sculpey.com/super-sculpey/9-super-sculpey-firm ) super sculpy firm is the only polymer clay I've used (oven hardening). Unless anyone with more experience pops by I'd say just get some super sculpy and play around with it. Learn what you like about it or dont like, and branch out from there.

Tools:

https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wax+carving+tools&qid=1573851649&sprefix=wax+car&sr=8-3

I think this is what I have, plenty of shapes and sizes for all your detailing needs. You may also want some files for after you bake the clay:

https://www.amazon.com/10-Piece-Diamond-Needle-Total-Length/dp/B07R3R9461/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=diamond+file&qid=1573851744&sr=8-9

These work well in my experience. As far as your armature question goes I'd definitely recommend arnatures, I'd just go on amazon and search "copper wire", obviously dont get anything insulated. I think I have 24 gauge wire and it's perfect for what I do on the ~25mm scale, so a thicker gauge may be beneficial to you.

Paints:

Make a thread at /r/minipainting it's a more active sub and has some really good painters.


Again, I'm no expert. The tools/ files I can vouch for, and the clay will be a good starting point if no one else pipes up. Good luck!

Also, I like the drawings!


Edit: I should say that if you're on a budget the files and tools are not required, you can get by with whatever you have around the house. Toothpicks, silverware, hobby knives, paperclips, safety pins, etc.

Budget? Im sure you mean it but what you are discussing here will be about $1500 in machines and tools + space and storage

​

I'd recommend https://www.bigceramicstore.com/speedball-big-boss-formerly-creative-industries-big-boss.html as the wheel. It's a hundred and change more than a few of the cheaper models, but it will last and it will perform and she won't outgrow it unless she starts throwing pots as big as you are.

As for tools there's literally thousands of different tools all specialty and all with variations. To begin with, I would get a set like https://www.amazon.ca/Blisstime-Sculpting-Wooden-Pottery-Carving/dp/B07N64DQ9J/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=pottery+tools&qid=1566218688&s=gateway&sr=8-20 which will have variety. Even if the individual tools are cheaper it will give her an idea of what she likes.

I would also get a set of metal ribs, like https://www.amazon.ca/COMIART-Sculpture-Pottery-Molding-Ceramics/dp/B078C7KT4J/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=pottery+tools&qid=1566218688&s=gateway&sr=8-17 which are used for shaping curves and having metal ones with some give can be WAY better than even the nicest wood ones for some situations.

For space, I'd say 5x5 minimum work clearance for the wheel area. She will need to have a large bucket or bag of clay, the wheel, a large bowl or bucket of water, potentially a second chair and a large mirror where she can see both the work and her posture.

In addition she will need some sort of sturdy work table, because clay needs to be prepped like bread dough. Something with a resilient surface (Im a big fan of ikea butcherblock counterop) It doesn't have to be HUGE but smaller than about 2x2 and uncomfortable to work standing would be incorrect in my opinion.

If she does any hand building, which is coming back into fashion, she'll want closer to 2' by 6' so she can roll out slabs and still have work area.

Lastly, there are three stages of pottery before it's finished.

Leather, bone, and bisque.

She will need racks to hold anything going through those stages. I recommend something sturdy and on wheels, so that they can be pushed against a wall when full. Something like these https://www.amazon.ca/SortWise-Adjsutable-Shelving-SystemSort-Lockable/dp/B071ZDHJ1S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=metal+shelving+wheel&qid=1566219480&s=gateway&sr=8-4 which can hold heavy pots but wont be tippy if they need to be moved.

Lastly, she'll need a kiln. This is where the magic happens. I can't really suggest one kiln in particular, as it's really dependent on how much she wants to do. You will probably want an electric kiln that uses a 240 standard oven plug. You'll likely need wiring for it.https://www.bigceramicstore.com/kilns/kiln-types/electric-ceramic/small-electric-ceramic-kilns.html?filter_kiln_cone=288&lm_manufacturer=13

The good news is used electric kilns are -everywhere- online for about half the price as new or less.check local kijiji or craigs ads, there will be some.

ALTERNATIVELY, depending on your area, you may have a local guild. There for a registration fee and mandatory classes (Locally mine was 3 courses ~6 weeks and $200 each for hand building, wheel throwing, and kiln use + a $200/year membership fee) She could have access to a full studio/wheels/kiln/tools/peers.

Personally I would go with a decent quartz banger. Those glass nails, like the one that comes with your piece, are prone to break - but it is still very usable.

With the piece you linked, you'll need a 14mm female. Here is a very basic article on glass joint sizes and male/female genders - edit: looking for a better reference.

The general rule of thumb for male and female joints is if it inserts INTO a glass joint it is a male - Think penis. If it slides OVER a glass joint it is a female - Think vagina.

For example, the glass dome (and the bowl) on the piece you linked is a female joint because it slides over the male joint (not pictured) on the downstem.

While Ti nails are perfectly fine, I prefer quartz. I think the flavor is better, but this is just my opinion. There are a lot of options out there for nails, try them out and find what suits your tastes.

You can get along just fine with a banger by itself but, to get the most out of it you should learn how to use a carb cap. There is a learning curve with everything but through trial and error you'll eventually get to MLG360no-dome globfather status in no time.

As far as domed vs domeless, the piece you linked comes with a glass dome, which you would need if you used just a regular nail insert such as the glass one that comes with your piece. Here is an example of a domeless Ti nail, and here is one similar to yours with a dome and Ti nail insert.

Notice how the domeless nail has a an opening, or channel, in the middle for the vapor to flow through as you inhale. You don't need a dome to capture the vapor with a domeless nail. This is really the difference between the two types as the standard nail insert is basically a solid dish with no airways on the surface.

There are many styles of domeless nails but hopefully this will give you a general idea about the differences between the two.

I should add that with a domeless nail, you won't need a dome, but you will want to learn how to use a carb cap. Also, as /u/snobord mentioned, the carb caps are going to be different depending on what type of nail you decide to use. If they don't match up or properly restrict airflow, the caps will not work as intended. So be sure to do your research before deciding to pull the trigger.

You'll also need a dabber or dab tool to apply your concentrates to your nail. Personally, I use a Ti dabber with a ball point tip because it makes it easier for me to collect my rosin after I press it. There are a lot of options for dabbers as well and really I think it comes down to personal preference.

edit:

>/u/snobord

>The type of your concentrate is going to affect the kind of dabber you want to use. The ball point wouldn't be ideal for crumble, for example. I personally bought a stainless steel wax carver set from Amazon so I'd have all the bases covered.

Finally, you're going to need some sort of storage container for your concentrates like a wax wallet or something similar. A quick google search should point you in the right direction.

edit:

>/u/snobord

>As for the silicone containers, bought 10ish (don't remember exactly) of them last year, used them one or twice and basically haven't touched them since. The main reason is I pick up from dispensaries and it comes prepackaged in half/one gram packs and the process of transferring it over isn't even worth the effort. This is definitely a matter of opinion though so my point is just that op should try it out before buying a bunch.

Several edits later: If I missed the mark on anything let me know. Op, hopefully if I wasn't able to answer your questions someone more experienced can chime in and get you on the right path.

Good luck, and happy dabbing!

Special thanks to u/Morgan-3D and u/Lps2 for the STLS! I modified the Poseidon/Mod holder to fit my Joytech infinite....had an error when printing and it ended up being a perfect fit for the reverse banger and grommet. Coil holder and second Poseidon stand are awesome, thanks again to everyone here for providing so many tips. Happy Sunday y'all!

Details:

Joytech Espion Infinite & Sai TAF (Awesome Mod, but no Arctic Fox compatibility. The TCR mode is great so I don't feel like I'm missing out too much; I have a backup VooPoo I'll get around to flashing soon).

Usually running Triple Black Ceramic, TCR 366 / 27 Watts / 360 - 430 / Locked @ 0.29 with the Reverse Banger on a halfway decent rig. I get very solid clouds and throaty strong rips all day. I have some ti & quartz buckets to try but I'm so happy with the Triple Black I haven't got around to it yet.

Favorite items are obviously the 3D Prints and Reverse Banger. Loving this wax Carver kit (you can't beat this price anywhere) : SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CMOQCb61J6RYC

Also, this ultrasonic cleaner and portable case with ice packs is a must for me (all recommendations from waxpen & r/saionara):

Ultrasonic: Yesker Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKDAVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zNOQCbYCNV3EB

goldwheat Portable Insulin Cooler Bag Diabetic Organizer Medical Travel Cooler Pack + 2 Ice Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MS782/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7NOQCb3RB56GX

Never would have got this dialed in without these subs & HVT! I am barely even using flower anymore.

I'm using some metal sculpting tools, Here's the set I'm using, a lot of sculpting comes down to experience and practice, life-drawing lessons always helped but besides that I've picked up some tips and tricks here and there. note some of these tips only relate to Sculpting with Super sculpy.

• 
  For the love of god make a sturdy armature
  
• 
  Thin pieces of sculpy can be cooked in boiling water anything below 8mm for about 15 minutes
  
  
• 
  when sculpting the eyes/eyelids It's much easier to use solid eyes. I usually roll 2 balls, throw them in some boiling water and then once they've hardened jam them into the eye sockets. It's much more forgiving when the you're trying to tuck in the eyelids around the eyeball and it doesn't give way to your tool
  
  
• 
  You can use lighter fluid to smooth out Sculpy, get a small sturdy paint brush and dipping it into lighter fluid you can use it to manipulate the Sculpy to get some nice flowing lines and soft edges.
  
  thats the most I can think of off the top of my head.
  
  

Hey, a metal implement is a metal implement, though I wouldn't use aluminum for dabs.

I got mine as an ear cleaner, then took a job packaging cannabis concentrates and sometimes even weed, before making vapes for awhile. Presently looking for a better employer that appreciates all I bring to the table, but I can move sugars, crumbles, sauces, rosin or whatever goop at a ridiculous rate with a standard dab tool set (also called sculpting tools) and one of those ear cleaners, as well as a very special silver spoon I found on Ebay (for the crumble only). With those tools, I was doing 1100-1200 half-gram jars a shift, clean and proper as can be.

When I started there, they handed me a bowl of sugar and a plastic spoon. After a week of that shit, I was looking for proper tools. Had some hits and some misses, but my goop-moving toolkit is awesome. A plastic spoon netted about 300 jars a day...and for only the fastest among us.

BUT ALL THAT ASIDE-- my ears are sooo happy. Try it. Takes a little practice to get the hang of the inside of your own ear, but when you do....

Also, I should say I still prefer flower over dabs, myself. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust. Easy.

And I can do more than 1200 vapes a day, easy. :)

• Capsule machine - any size depending on what you want the cap size to be.
  
• Mortar and pestle - used to pulverize MDMA
  
• Micro funnel - cut the tip of the spout off with scissors and leave about 1/4" spout.
  
• Milligram scale - calibrate and weigh out MDMA amount per cap
  
• Small metal spatulas - really useful for scooping MDMA
  
  
  These are just the tools that I use, you don't have to use them but it makes the job easier.
  
  Process:
  
  

1. Fill capsule machine with empty caps. This one holds 50 shells. Put the tops in a bowl or glass to keep them from getting misplaced.
   
2. Place the shortened funnel in the first cap that you want to fill
   
3. Pulverize MDMA. It doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, but the less chunky the easier it is to weigh out.
   
4. Put a plate under the pestle, scale, and capsule machine to catch any accidental spills that might occur.
   
5. Using the spatulas, transfer a small amount of MDMA that has been pulverized to the scale. Add or remove MDMA as necessary till you get the weight that you want each cap.
   
6. Transfer the weighed amount of MDMA and pour it into the funnel, hopefully filling the cap with MDMA. The funnel spout sometimes clogs,just use the spatula to clear the clog.
   
7. Repeat these steps until you've filled all the caps you need to make.
   
8. After you have filled all the caps you are going to make, use the shell halves to seal the caps.
   
   With this setup, I can cap over 100 caps an hour, each one weighed out to the same weight. Using #1 caps each ends up about 1/2 full, filled with .1-.15g of MDMA.

Welcome welcome


I would recommend a few things depending on what you're looking to do.

For helping smooth out the print I regularly use XTC-3D by smoothon- You basically coat your print with the epoxy and it dries smooth. You really need to put it on really thin or else you will lose the details of your print. Once its dried you can sand it further or paint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZopV6He4cqE

I also regularly use a dremel to remove excess pieces or grind away parts I cant tear off.

I also picked up these needle files that are awsome for sanding down detailed areas.

http://www.harborfreight.com/needle-file-set-10-pc-69876.html



I also use sculpting tools to help remove stubborn support materials.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY?keywords=sculpting%20tools&qid=1451425886&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Specifically the forth tool from the left

Other than that I just use sanding paper when needed.

Hope that helps and hope you are enjoying the witbox

I haven't used the Bondo spot putty, but there are several brands of putty used on plastic models that work pretty well -- Squadron, Tamiya, and Testors all have very smooth putties that are only a couple bucks a tube. They dry pretty fast, so be sure to work in small areas and have a plan. Using the back side of a spoon-shaped sculpting tool (like the one at the top here) helps get it packed into tight areas too. A cheap substitute is a low-end stainless steel crab fork, it will have a spoon on one end like that.

It's a little blurry, but it looks like you need to mesh the greenstuff onto the cloak a little better. It looks like there is a gap between the two?

Having the gap on the shoulders is fine, since it is sitting on top of them, but you want it to blend into the cloak itself, since it is supposed to be part of it.

Do you have a sculpting tool? They help a lot when dealing with greenstuff, especially for keeping your fingerprints off of it.

This is what I use;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let it cure a bit for hard edge sculpting. Use an old razor to slice off little equal chunks. It's pretty sticky and will ruin a nice blade. Cut off very small amounts at once until you get a handle on your skills, think a few grains of rice. When you pas the sculpt time, just smash the blobs onto bases and make mud or sandstone. When it's to far gone, it will just fall off, so rocks can easily be glued back done. Balancing stickyness and hardness is really key.

Go out and grab a huge pile of dental tools for cheap. The little paddle and shovle kind, not the wire picks. I own several real deal sculpting knifes but I go back to that one dental tool I like the best. Amazon has lots, but they are really common.

A good first project is layered sandstone for bases and other base elements to get a feel for moving it around. Then try out gap filling then furtrim and chain mail.

Unfortunately there's no magic to it. Carefully sand away (2500-3000 grit) the previous poor touch up job (use the sandpaper wrapped around the credit card trick). Make sure you get rid of all the crappy prior job, then clean it up with isopropyl alcohol. Then start laying in the paint, then the clear coat, making sure you keep it as level as possible so you don't have a bubbled up bit of clear. Then if you have the time/patience you can wet sand and polish to really perfect it (that depends on the severity of the chip/scratch if it's worth it)

A tool like this, or this is incredible for touch up, since the brushes that come in most bottles are too big to be useful. This video shows him using that tool, and how useful it is. I can't recommend it enough.

For the size of work your aiming to do, you can pick up a cheap set of mini-ribbon or wax sculpting tools on amazon/an art store. I personally believe its important to have tools for material removal (tools with holes in them and sharper flat edges) Such as this and tools for material displacement. Such as this.

Alot of times I needed a very unique shape of tool. I have a number of tools that are just paper clips that I used small/fine needle nose pliers to bend to the appropriate shape, then attached them to a dowel. You can then use a dremmel grinder/sander if you want to sharpen the paper clip up a bit to get smoother material removal.

If you want a dremmel style tool but dont want to pay dremmel prices, Harbor freight carries a highspeed rotary tool for around $20 that is useable. You can also pick up little grinding sets for it that have a variety of shaped tips that can range from small to extremely small. Amazing for carving in finer details.

Things you probably already have and will need:
Needle nose pliers

Wire for armatures

Hot glue

Razor blades (the cheap disposable ones that have the snap off blades are great because of their extendable nature.


Of course there's quite a few more which I'm forgetting at the moment.

Also, while I'm thinking about it, for the base I used little wooden squares with a fine hole drilled wherever the feet are planted. That's where your armature will be connected to the base. A small clamp of sorts to hold the base down and keep your armature steady while you work on it will save you a lot of anguish.

If you're interested in mixing your own colors of polymer clay too (from other colors of polymer clay especially), check out my previous answer at YA (as Diane B.) and/or the Color page at my site:
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20141118190349AA9fkO1
http://glassattic.com/polymer/color.htm

And if you want to make simple "canes" to get shapes like your dots and hearts surrounded by black, white, or any color to put on your items, also check out these pages:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/canes--instructions.htm (for the dot ones, look under the category called "Wrapped, Bullseye")
http://glassattic.com/polymer/Canes--general.htm
...and if you want to make those canes smaller and smaller:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/canes--reducing.htm

Or you could use round/circle or heart mini-cutters and "onlay" those onto the base clay shapes instead:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DTEFUL2/ref=asc_df_B01DTEFUL25012276 (or buy only the ones you need)
http://glassattic.com/polymer/onlay.htm (click on Dimensional Onlays)

This one is very similar to the one I saw. I think the handles are through and through titanium, and if cast, could be threaded on the end pretty easily.

But I wouldn't even bother, natural wood is always better, especially if you burned in the tang!

Looks friggin sweet though, OP! Time to slay some dabs!

I need doll-modding supplies!

Like clay or tools or acetone pens or embellishments or brushes.

With practice, I hope to be able to work with some very talented doll artists in my community, as well as crafting custom dolls for people over the Internet.

My new favorite (extremely cheap!) tool is to use cuticle sticks. They work perfectly for smoothing small details and they feel natural to handle.

I also recently purchased some rubber tip clay tools that have really helped when smoothing/defining details. My only issue is that they are long-handled tools so I can't always reach the areas I need for refining.

Amazon links:

Cuticle sticks: http://www.amazon.com/DMtse-Cuticle-Remover-Manicure-Pedicure/dp/B009WLX83Y

Rubber tip clay tools: http://www.amazon.com/COMI-Shapers-Sculpture-Polymer-Modeling/dp/B013WKV8JQ

It depends on what you're doing with it exactly. The tools I most often use are: • Quil Pens, I found that this particular nib works well because it is designed for a more viscous ink. • Silicone Shapers. These are made for sculpting but they are perfect for masking fluid. • The back of a plastic handled brush. These Polar-Flo Brushes have a wedge shaped end that works fairly well.

[Here is a link if you are interested] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). These things are awesome because you cannot break them, like I just did with my glass one, there is at least one that works perfectly with every consistency of wax!

Edit: If you want to see any of them close up, I can take some more pictures!

I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt; the regular is a grey color. Tutorial hereSame two-part compound idea, but it will thin (and clean) with water before hardening and is a finer grain than green stuff (so it files/sands nicer (smoother). Very easy to manipulate & shape with wax shaping tools

I use these tools and they're awesome. I've seen plenty of other people with the same set. 5 good tools for $9 is pretty tough to beat.

I bend the tops or paddle the sides after I take it off the wheel and let it sit for 30 mins or so. Once it’s good to trim, I trim the bottom and then use a pottery hole punch like this: BCP Pack of 4 Stainless Steel and Wood Circular Clay Hole Cutters for Pottery and Sculpture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9STDEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gssqDbFP9E7GF Depending on the size you want. I then use a sponge and soften the hole punch marks so they are smooth.

After trying just about every method of using concentrates, I find that my prefered method is a nectar collector, This one is a great starter kit. This guy makes awesome stands with a 3D printer and sells them super cheap. An enail is outrageously expensive and more for the party session style. Pens just don't get hot enough and it's not an on-the-go kind of set up. Get a professional grade butane torch like this one, and borocite dish like a mini-ramekin. Oh, I almost forgot, I would upgrade to a quartz tip as opposed to the titanium one it comes with. Sorry, I'm at work and keep remembering things to add- essentially, of all the methods, I prefer the nectar collector or honey straw method simply because it give the most control when hitting. Another handy thing to pick up is a set of wax sculpting tools
.


As far as my "recipe", I usually get diamonds or crystals and then top them off with some distillate sauce. This is mostly because I draw really hard and can't help it, so sauce prevents the crystals from shooting straight through the straw.

Overall, I hate to say it, but when learning how to use concentrates, just be flat out prepared for losses and accept the trial and error process. Eventually, you'll find your groove with it. I promise.

I ended up getting this one. I found about 3-4 of the tools useful (still learning how to use them though), but i really like my exacto knife. The thin blade helps a lot and I end up using it about 80% of the time.

Normal Tools:

I've found my square tool with a lip on it: This one to be invaluable. I use it every time I craft to make a 90 degree cut.

X-Acto knives are a must when cutting foam (buy a box of 100 blades, foam dulls them QUICK). A box cutter for things like corkboard or cardboard.

A cheap clay set such as this can be useful when working with foam to add different types of impressions. The metal tool with prongs is good for making a wood grain effect.

Tiny hand drill such as This is useful for making small holes for wood posts, jail bars, etc.. I use this hand drill with a 3mm bit I bought elsewhere to put tiny magnets into my work to hold pieces together that are modular or detachable.

Paints:

I like to get house paints from Home Depot for major colors that I use a lot (grey for stone, brown for wood). I get the sample size containers that are really cheap for the amount of paint you get, and the paint is thick enough so you only have to use one coat most of the time. I use dental plaster bricks from Hirst Arts quite often and it takes several coats of cheap paint or just one coat of house paint to get the job done. I mix the house paint with cheap craft white paint for dry brushing highlights. For all the other colors I use the cheap($.50 - $1.00 / bottle) craft store paint. I wouldn't use that paint for miniatures, but works fine for terrain.

Brushes:

Get the cheap ones in a wide variety of sizes. You will be dragging and jamming those brushes into all sorts of places so they will get damaged. I also use the brushes for applying glue to terrain, or latex to wire armatures and they do not survive that process well. I never use any of the ones with the sponge tips.

Thanks for all the replies! So let make sure I'm getting this info correct, it's fine to dab with Stainless Steel? I would not be endangering my health by dabbing with these? http://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_ps_t_2

These things are great.

I picked up a set very similar to this and, though I haven't used every tool in it, it was a worthwhile investment.

Milliput and green stuff both work well for gap filling and smoothing over rough areas. Liquid green stuff is garbage. I find that milliput is more fragile than green stuff, so if you're putting it in areas that are likely to be touched a lot (or you're fabricating detail) I'd use green stuff. But I like it a little more for seam filling just because of how easy it is to sand and carve.

Get yourself a cheap set of tools and remember to smooth it over with watered tools/fingers.

There are cheap alternatives. I'll give you a starting point which will help you make rosin/hash.
Here is a clay press, if you replace the mold tip with a dime it will seal it. Put some kief as usual, if you want a rosin feel don't use heat. If you want a hash type concentrate add mild heat very lightly and evenly at the tip and compress a bit more. Rosin will darken and oil up a bit. Hope this was useful.
[Amazon clay press tool]
(https://www.amazon.ca/COMIART-Extruder-Professional-Sculpture-Modeling/dp/B072L5BWDD/ref=asc_df_B072L5BWDD/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335055417995&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6598222884706089296&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000826&hvtargid=pla-350353560163&psc=1)

Sure. Sculpting is a hobby of mine, so I have a bunch of tools laying around. I used tools like these to make circular impressions in green stuff pads.

• Here's some cheap bulk dab tools that i got and work great
  
• Cheap cool recycler rig or any other glass on DHGate is pretty dope
  
• Concentrate slicks can be found on amazon for cheap or unbleached parchment paper works perfect IMO
  
• Theres tons of torches online. I wouldn't skimp too much when it comes to a torch because there's nothing more disappointing than a torch breaking mid dab sesh
  
• Domeless Ti nails and carb caps and such can be found online but be careful of the grade or quality you are purchasing.
  
  Anything I missed?

Do yourself a favor and just get one of these. Stainless and ti dabbers work better; wax tends to cling more to glass than metal.

I would highly recommend these! Shammy Kit by WiziWig Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FL91YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YUiwybYTV5Q9E

They are amazing for finishing the rims of your pieces!!

Also, new needle tools and cutting tools- maybe some sodium silicate to mess around with and some fancy glazes to try?

Definitely MDMA or speed if you're in the college scene. 20g amphetamine paste (So around 15g dried) for $60 and you can sell that for around $100 a gram as powder or $10-$15 for 80mg in a cap.

• $27 Capsule machine and 1000 caps
  
  
• $24 Gemini 20 milligram scale
  
  
• $5 powder scoop
  
  
• $9 weighing paper
  
  So $65 for the tools to make good capsules. From here you can either spend $60 on 20g of speed paste or buy some ecstasy. If you do the 20g of paste you'll likely wind up with 15g of powder, enough to make 187 80mg speed capsules. If you sell for $10 each, that's $1,870. Minus the initial investment of around $140, you're left with at least $1,730.
  
  
  

The ideal kit for resin scraping, in my opinion, can be found on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003KE3ZFK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NYKVM69MZ4ANCM4RX26

For the life of me I cannot locate that exact tool.

Here's some great ones though: SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers by SE http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_vAj1tb03SC6N4

I got it at a local Flea Market / Swap Meet

This is a good cheap set you can get from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Double-Sided/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483070428&sr=8-6&keywords=sculpting+tools

Also, the small sphere in this set helps.

https://www.amazon.com/COMI-Pottery-Ceramics-Sculpting-Modeling/dp/B01JED95XG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483070440&sr=8-1&keywords=sculpting+tools+round

Seconding the Kemper recommendation.

These are cheap and cheerful too, depending on the scale you're working at. https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/

The wooden ones are definitely clay sculpting tools.

Example from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Wooden-Modeling-Tools-Polymer-Sculpting/dp/B0796L45XB

Nice. My smoke shop tends to pull 7-10 dollar bullshit.

Yup, I'm a fan of my dentist pick. Another good deal, though not currently in stock:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382473690&sr=8-1&keywords=dabbers

If you are molding by hand I would suggest a set of carving tools.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best kit ever for dabs it has a flat scraper what I would do get you an airtight glass container scrap up everything in the middle transfer it to silicon. Fold what's left put it in the ziplock bag, put that in your glass container seal toss it and your scrapper in your freezer for 5-10minutes longer if needed but keep an eye on it. It will scrap off so easily and you will get every last bit you can. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7X7D3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pick up some dental picks/tools or clay working thingums. These for example.

They'll help with smoothing of green stuff and shaping without leaving fingerprints.

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

Wax carvers like these.

I like these

Oh no, it’s a very good question. I use a dotting tool. They are specifically for making dots on your nails. Here’s an example of some.

These are the only craft related thing on my Amazon list. I'm a jeweler by trade and would use these in wax carving for models.

Lunar Supplies

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C7X7D3E/

http://amzn.com/B000SVRSRY

Like these?

These guys

So, $8.82 for a wax carving set:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370102302&sr=8-1&keywords=wax+carving+kit

Ya I was looking at these actually:
https://www.amazon.ca/SE-DD301-Stainless-Steel-Spatula/dp/B001G0VCYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522971536&sr=8-1&keywords=chemistry+spatula

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wbCYAbCYNG33G

SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Wax Carvers Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GAPFDbPW0RSP7

Apoxie Sculpt 1 lb. White, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013UDWXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9APFDb4BZREHF

Sand Detailer Finishing Kit, Finer Grits, 24 piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039ZCQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BCPFDbBV5SSGW

SERONLINE 24pcs Ball Stylus Dotting Tools, Polymer Modeling Clay Sculpting Tools Set Rock Painting Kit for Sculpture Pottery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776SN7Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDPFDbTH56VM0

Monster Clay Premium Grade Modeling Clay (5lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722NKKYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dEPFDb1WPY7K2

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499887364&sr=8-3&keywords=flush+cut+pliers

And these: https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Double-Sided/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499887406&sr=8-2&keywords=wax+carving

There's another one, but not the same brand for $11.97. Here is the link.

They are clay/wax sculpting tools

http://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1418578480&sr=8-6&keywords=clay+sculpting+tools&pebp=1418578503800

https://www.amazon.com/HTS-154S5-Stainless-Spatula-Sculpting/dp/B01C7X7D3E

I just bought These. Now I'm not sure what I would do without them.

4th tool from the left http://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1415246554&sr=8-16&keywords=pottery+tools is my favorite for keeping seams down and keeping my fingers out of harms way!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was actually $6.99 when I bought it, my bad. I guess the price went up on it :( but still, $8.95 for 12 of these aint that bad.

I follow this cap maker on Twitter and they did a killer BMO a while ago, you should definitely go for it: https://twitter.com/tinymakesthings/status/983197768431710210


What are you using for tools? I got this for 9 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh yeah, I bought this set of wax carving picks about a year ago and get tons of use out of all the tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SVRSRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Not many better deals for less than 10 bucks if you ask me. Not to mention buying the one's labelled for uses other than vaping/smoking are always a hell of a lot cheaper than the one's you get in a smoke shop.