$2400 4K Gaming PC

Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

• Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  
• 1440p: 198fps
  
• 4K: 99fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Micro Center Parts:
  

• CPU, Motherboard
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
  CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
  Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
  Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
  Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
  Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
  | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
  | Total | $2427.70
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |
  
  #Explanation of Part Choices:
  
  

• Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  
• Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  
• Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  
• SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  
• Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  
• Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  
• Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.

Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.

TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.

Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.

K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.

Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.

TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.

Ok so

processor - AMD FX 8350 Eight-Core 4.00GHz

cooler - looks exactly like this Deep cool gammaxx 400 and it is the same brand. I'm sure this is it.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=deep+cool+heat+sink&qid=1558541822&s=electronics&sr=1-3

My home is about 75 degrees, year round. I'll go as low as 73 in the summer but almost never lower, 71 absolute minimum.

Right now, just kind of idle considering all I'm doing is Redditing, my CPU is at 31-34^(o)C and the graphics card is at 40. I haven't monitored it during gaming cuz my last graphics card came with its own software to do this and this one doesn't run anything like that automatically, I downloaded Speccy just now.

Ooh, I can see the multiplier on each core, how interesting! Haha this is new for me.

You can see my build here if the rest is TLDR:

https://www.reddit.com/r/computer/comments/bqvd7x/consolidationoverheating_help/

​

The case is just how it came with the factory build. It's by cyberpower and has a side fiberglass panel and the front is solid plastic with vents at the top and bottom for air intake, but the whole front clips off easily.

The factory build had a fan right behind the heat sink also, directed to push air out the back of the PC as the sole exhaust fan. I replaced it with a better fan that allegedly has liquid bearings, and put a fan 90 degrees to it above the processor that also pushes air out and away from the hottest area of the PC.

On the other side of the tower, there was one factory fan for air intake behind that removable front panel. Again I replaced with better fans and now there are three, all pulling air in the same direction as the original factory fan which I rationalized was a good thing because the air intake really only came from the small vents at the top and bottom of that removable panel.

One additional note on the GPU choice - as PlaysForDays noted, the "standard" RTX 2080 performs only a bit higher (~10%) than the $499 RTX 2070 Super (Gigabyte 2070 Super as an example), but retails for several hundred dollars more. Its successor, the RTX 2080 Super can be found for $699-$730 (eg, this card, or this card), making it a smarter choice than your listed $689 Gigabyte RTX 2080.

Performance differences will vary from game to game, but essentially there's no reason to choose an RTX 2080 at $690 when for ten or twenty dollars more you can pick up an RTX 2080 Super. Conversely, dropping to a 2070 Super can save you two hundred bucks for giving up about ten percent in performance. For a build this powerful, I'd simply step up to the 2080 Super and call it a day. :)

The other observations about the motherboard are also valid. The Gaming X isn't a bad board, but it's not compelling when alternatives such as the Aorus Elite exist for a very minor bump in price.

For a CPU cooler, if you plan on using a traditional air cooler, go with either a Noctua NH-D15 or the Dark Rock Pro 4 from the irritatingly yet aptly named "be quiet!" They're both top tier, very high quality coolers with low noise fans which include mounting hardware for AM4 boards. They'll handle the 3900X's heat with no issues and you'll have some headroom for overclocking if you desire.

womp womp, well even with the same voltage applied to the 212 that's being currently applied to stock cooler you'll still get better cooling, because it's a better design with much more surface area to dissipate the heat. It will also look cooler and be much quieter.

That said, you are probably hitting or very close to hitting thermal throttling currently. Which means your CPU gets hot enough that it is getting slowed down to keep cool. This can mean significant performance loss. I'd personally go for it, as long as your case can fit it. There is a smaller cooler that is almost basically a small version of the 212, it will fit in a lot of cases the 212 won't and is still much better than the stock cooler. It's called the Hyper T2.

I have a T2 on my wife's FX8350 and it does an amazing job and is cheaper. Since you may not be overclocking I would be comfortable highly recommending it to you if you want to save some money. If you ever plan to jump to a K series chip and are interested in overclocking, the 212 will help you get a little extra performance over the T2 though.

If you think it may be a problem with case temps(cpu cooler can only cool to the temp of the air it's supplied), pull the side panel off, you should see a relief in cpu temp if it's case temps. However, don't leave it off permanently as the airflow passing through the case cools passive coolers on your motherboard and other devices, without the side panel the air around them becomes more stagnant and will increase chipset temps.

First off, for the convenience of myself and others, I went ahead and dropped your list into PCPartsPicker. I believe, we end up with something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $93.80 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M LX PLUS Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $38.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $66.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $26.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card | $114.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Rosewill FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Antec 450W ATX Power Supply | $30.27 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-118BB DVD/CD Drive | $19.98 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $421.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-22 02:21 EST-0500 |

Let's get your specific questions out of the way next:

1. I had to do some searching around, but I found a page saying that the case should allow for coolers of up to 150mm in height, which is unfortunately somewhat limiting. For instance the most popular (on here, at least) budget air cooler is the Hyper 212 Evo, but that has a height of 159mm.

Your best bet, just to be on the safe side would be to go ahead and just purchase a dependable low profile cooler. One example of that that I personally think would work well for you is the Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev. B. That's $46 on amazon, and I'm not sure what your exact budget is. I can find a cheaper option, if need be.

2. You didn't give details on the exact model of optical drive, but you did mention SATA, so we'll assume it uses SATA. If that's the case, then most likely your motherboard came with some SATA cables. It's definitely the common thing to do, but I can't say for certain.

As for the more general question ("what are some hidden things I might need?"), here's the common list of forgotten or nice to have things:

Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Mouse pad (optional, but can be really nice to have!)
* Windows license (or other OS of your choice)

There are of course other things which are "cool," or nice to have, but they probably don't really fall into your budget.

Finally, by your post I gather you've already purchased some/most of these parts, so I will refrain from making any change recommendations

Hope this helped!

That cooler is really nice quality, can also look at this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B00QCEWTAW

I have had your same exact setup before. Same mobo, I overclocked my fx-8350 though. Get another 8GB of DDR3 RAM to run in dual channel, the CPU will run much better! The motherboard hates 4 sticks of RAM and memory controller is such utter garbage. So only use two ram sticks.

Read your motherboard manual. There is a PDF of it on the MSI website under support for your motherboard. very easy to find. Yes, you will put it on 2nd and 4th slots.

Your CPU will love you with a better cooler, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJMQDUM/ref=twister_B06ZZ1T1KL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You want to get a minimum TDP of 150W cooler.

The VRM gets super damn hot with that motherboard, its great to have air flowing over the entire board. You can get than with heatsinks that blows air down like the be quiet one that I had linked. If you have case fans that can blow air over the MSI motherboards heatsinks fine then you will do aliright.

That GPU will gelp you alot, and do just fine. Any GTX 1060 6GB.

Good luck.

I wouldn't bother with an H310 motherboard if you're wanting to OC. Get a Z370/Z390 motherboard. Make sure you get a K series CPU (i7-8700k vs the i7-8700, for example) with it, or you'll not be able to do any meaningful overclocking.

​

A 1070ti doesn't make much sense to me right now...for about the same price, you can get an RTX 2070. Should get better performance per dollar, unless you're buying a cheap used 1070ti.

​

Watercooling is great, but expensive to start out with. The cooling per dollar on water is not nearly as good as an air cooler, however, so I'd suggest starting on air with better parts and upgrading to water later. A high quality air cooler and good thermal paste will easily outperform a similarly priced water setup. I'd recommend air cooling with something like the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=twister_B06ZZ1T1KL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) tower cooler for a start. It's plenty powerful for most overclocking, quiet, and easier to set up than a water loop. If you're set on water cooling, start with whatever 240mm AIO has the prettiest RGB in your opinion. If you're thinking of a custom loop, expect to spend a lot more....loop parts add up quickly...quality fans alone will cost half as much as that air cooler.

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?

​

​

hey i own a node 202 case and it seems you want to overclock, i recommend you go for this cpu cooler. Says its around $53 usd right now and im guessing cause low stock, I only paid $39 USD for it and my idle temps are around 30 Celsius with an i5 6600k oc to 4.4 ghz on 1.32 v. its kind of a crappy oc i was told by others but i enjoy the better performance. under heavy gaming load it doesn't go over 70 Celsius from what i have seen. PC partpicker says the fan will not fit but if you dont mind modifying the case it will fit. I can show you the pics of what i did to mine if youd like just let me know. the Noctua cpu fan was shit in this case. i had the exact one and just sold it. with that fan cpu idle was around 37 Celsius. the corsair PSU you want is a great one but go for the 600 if you can afford it, i have the same one (but the 600w one). good luck!

Okay first of all thank you very much man !

i'll remove that specific fan . then i'll order this fan and try to hack it unto the gpu brackets holes using zipties i guess? i honestly like the idea and it's gonna help the gpu for sure but i wonder how effective will be the suction of the fan thro those tiny brackets holes ..

also on the second picture you posted, do u mean putting a second 80mm fan above the psu shroud? where will the air go from the other side :O

also i need to check that i have another 4pin head on my mobo at that bottom otherwise i won't be able to connect it ..

oh and also i think ill replace the wraith prism with This one , should be a great upgrade . and it's also good looking lol

This is the cooler you want (note the use of american PCPP): http://pcpartpicker.com/product/GdkD4D/scythe-cpu-cooler-scbsk2100 (you'll have to hunt for it in Canada or get it shipped across the border - https://www.amazon.ca/Scythe-SCBSK-2100-Shuriken-Cooler-Socket/dp/B0069CQ7BE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491753051&sr=8-1&keywords=scythe+big+shuriken)

The build looks like it could work well but I have some concerns:

1. I do not know what the RAM clearance is like for the Scythe cooler considering you aren't using low profile sticks. I know that the Cryorig C7 does not obstruct RAM whatsoever and I am also not sure about the SilverStone AR06.
   
2. Ask someone who has put a 3.5" drive into the GPU compartment of the Node 202 how much clearance there is (or you could figure this out yourself - look below).
   
3. You may want to go with the SF600 in case you ever want to go closer to the 450-500W mark with something beefier (GPU).
   
   Now for the HDD fit calculation (I'm just estimating here based on measurements I have at my disposal):
   
   

• Node 202 GPU max. length = 310mm x 145mm x 47mm
  
• Seagate ST2000DM006 = 102mm x 147mm x 27mm
  
• Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 = 174mm x 112mm
  
  Now, since the length of the HDD is 2mm larger than the Node 202's GPU width allowance, we can try to fit it length-wise in the GPU compartment.
  
  310mm - 147mm = 163mm left for the GPU. Therefore, this method will not work (putting it length-wise). The only option would be to squeeze in that HDD width-wise because: 310mm - 102mm = 208mm, which is enough to fit your 174mm GPU.
  
  However, if you do manage to squeeze it in width-wise, you'll also have to take into account the space available for connectors going into the HDD even if you use right angle connectors. So, either the Node 202 spec sheet is a bit conservative in it's GPU compartment measurements or you might have to skip on the 3.5" drive. As I said, I am only estimating whether it will fit based on the measurements available to me so it would be good to ask a few people on this sub who have managed to fit in an HDD how they did it.

Ok, so in another thread I started earlier today, /u/JDM_WAAAT may have convinced me to build my own server based loosely on his anniversary build. Couple of changes I just want to run by the fine people of this subreddit to make sure I'm not doing something stupid/incompatible. The items on top are straight from the guide, the items on the bottom of the list are the ones I have questions about.

-Single E5-2630 CPU

-GA-7PESH2 Mobo

-16gb DDR3 1600mhz Ram (incl with mobo)

-4TB Hard Drive (incl with mobo)

--------

-** This case, the Corsair Carbide 330r. The mobo should fit in there, I think, since it supports e-atx. If that case works, can I just use the fan that comes with it or will I need to add more cooling beyond the included fan and the CPU cooler?

-** Is this the correct breakout cable? The one linked on the guide is no longer in stock.

-**EVGA 450W 80+ Bronze PSU. The one in the build guide has gone way up in price, so does this one work?

-**Arctic Freezer 12 CPU Cooler. The one in the guide is no longer sold on Amazon, will this one be ok?

-**Operating System - I'd like to use Windows since I'm the most comfortable with it, would there be any issue with running Win10 on a flash drive with this build?

-ANYTHING else that I am missing that would be required for the build?

Thanks!!

I just wanna say the Noctua NH-U9S is awesome. I can't believe this little 95w TDP rated cooler can punch so high above its weight.

I'm pleased to report that a delidded 8700k/ASUS ROG STRIX z370-I combo will run great at 5Ghz (3 Offset) on the NCASE M1 with a Noctua NH-U9S with a single fan, an identical NF-A9 PWM as rear exhaust (Y splitter with the NH-U9's fan into the CPU fan header), and a single 120mm Noctua high static pressure fan as intake on the side panel.

VCORE is offset to produce 1.344v under load

Ambient Temp: 24°

Motherboard Idle: 34°C

CPU Idle: 34°C

Motherboard Load: 43°C

CPU Gaming Load: 65°C average, 71°C highest logged

CPU Prime95 26.6 Load: 82°C highest logged (same with Handbrake encodes, Aida64, and Blender)

This replaced a Corsair H100i V2 that I was not comfortable with because of the high motherboard temperatures (50°C) and even VRM throttling due to lack of airflow. I traded 15°C in CPU cooling performance for an overall cooler and quieter running system and I am happy. These days I'm more concerned about VRM and overall system temperature than I am about having the lowest possible CPU temperature. As long as I reach my overclocking goal, I'm perfectly fine with CPU temperatures in the low 80°C on unrealistic stress testing. It seems in such a small case its almost a zero-sum game of trading CPU cooling for system cooling: you either keep your CPU cool, your system cool, or find a happy medium.

One observation: really hope motherboard manufacturers start taking VRM cooling more seriously. A stylized metal block is not enough, we need good proper heatsinks with fins and heat-pipes if we wanna continue overclocking high core count CPU's inside small, airflow constrained SFF cases.

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

​

Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

I've been thoroughly impressed by the Corsair fans I purchased (2x 2pack of 120mm ML), and therefore I don't hesitate to recommend Corsair for CPU cooling as well. I'd suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00FZHWFEW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505845460&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair%2Bcpu%2Bcooler&th=1

Comes w/ dual fans out of the box so you don't have to use miss matched fans for the sandwich, but the sandwich does make a difference. You'll be cool as ice w/ this, but you'll also likely need to remove the bracket that holds the fan in currently depending on how it's set up now. Also, it can be a little difficult screwing through the mesh cage @ the top of the unit, and I've found that the rubber attachments: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H9905KA/ref=psdc_3012917011_t1_B01M4LVBY2

...work very nice. I don't believe they come w/ the Corsair cooler, however there should be some in your stock PC case fan you could use as you won't be using the top fan anymore if you purchase this cooler.


Whatever you end up getting just keep in mind that fan size is 120mm.

Personally I have a liquid cooler on my GPU, and was able to somehow get it up to the top. Just saying I have some experience on the matter w/ the same unit.

Scythe BIG Shuriken 2 Rev. B

The temps on my i7 4790k are around 40c idle, ~80c full load, but that's because my Silverstone SG13B ITX case has almost no airflow. There aren't any case fans. I haven't installed an intake fan yet, and this case uses the power supply fan for exhaust. Also, the idle speed is so high because I have the fan on the heatsink set to a very low speed until temps hit 70c, then it ramps the fan speed all the way up.

Those temps probably sound terrible, but I'm pretty happy with temperatures and the noise levels coming from the stock Intel cooler I was using. When I moved to an ITX rig, I obviously couldn't fit my trusty Noctua NH-U12P from my ATX anymore. I could probably improve the situation a bit by installing an intake fan and getting the cables under control, but I don't think I'll ever get great temps in a tiny case like this.

Here are some potato quality pictures of the build.

Since you are planning on Vega and R3/R5, just know that you probably won't be able to get your build together until mid to late summer. Aside from that, there are only a couple of things I noticed.

• The HDD you picked is 5400 RPM. If that was intentional, then ignore this, but if it wasn't, you should grab a 7200 RPM variant.
  
  
• You would be better off buying a cooler with a better heatsink like the Arctic i32 and replacing the fan with one with red LEDs. The 212 is an okay cooler, but there are definitely better options out there now.

I'm really enjoying my Arctic Freezer 12 CO. CO is optional but it's a double ball bearing fan for extra reliability and it's like $2 more than the regular Freezer 12. Check it out on their site or on Amazon. Its like $40 and it performs very well. 37c idle temps with an overclocked R5 1600. 55c while gaming. Super quiet too.

• The Cryorig H7 is probably my top pick, though you'll have to check to see if it's availible in France. It looks nicer, is easier to mount, has better cooling performance and is quieter than the 212evo, usually for about the same price.
  
  
• The Pure Rock is also about the same price as the 212evo and while the cooling performance about the same, it has the advantage of being significantly quieter. It should have wide availability in France too.
  
  
• The Arctic would probably be the second best pick as again it significantly out performs the 212evo in terms of cooling for about the same price, it just perhaps doesn't quiet look as good as the Cryorig. Not sure of the availability in France.
  
  Edit: Looks like the Arctic i32 is availible for the same price as the 212evo from amazon.fr...
  
  https://www.amazon.fr/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Ventilateur-Intel/dp/B0119SJ3L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473190324&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+i32
  
  I'd probably go for this as it looks like the h7 isn't avaible.

Prebuilt NAS from the likes of Synology is a huge waste of money. The ones that can transcode 1080p media properly cost upwards of $600, and that's without the storage.

For well under $600 (again excluding storage) you can build a kick-ass dual socket Xeon based server that will transcode one 4k stream without breaking a sweat, 2 would be a stretch, but maybe.

• Gigabyte GA-7PESH2 mobo - $175
  
• 2x Xeon E5-2650 V2 - $110
  
• Couple of half-decent coolers - $45
  
• 4U server chassis - $145 often on sale for $100
  
• 16GB 1066 or 1333 ECC REG memory - around $50 on eBay
  
• Decent PSU with dial EPS connectors - $60 on Evga B-stock site
  
• 2x SAS break-out cables if you want to run the SATA HDDs at their full potential speeds - $30
  
• As much SATA storage as you can afford. I usually buy the 8TB WD MyBook external drives when they go on sale, for around $130 each, and shuck them.
  
  You won't even need a GPU. Just make sure your monitor has VGA input for setting up the server, and after the initial setup it can run headless. The passmark score on the 2 CPUs is over 20k which is plenty.
  
  For more information check out https://serverbuilds.net site and Discord channel. Based on their guides I built a very capable server for under $400, and it does extremely well transcoding multiple 1080p streams simultaneously. Besides Plex Media Server it also runs all my automation like NZBget, Sonarr, Radarr, Bazarr, Tautulli, MCEBuddy (for converting 4k to 1080p,) Commskip (for removing commercials from recorded OTA programs,) and is my backup target for 4 Duplicati sources. The CPU load never goes above 50%, so I may throw all my home automation on there as well.

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

• MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  
• Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  
• AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  
• Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  
• Cooler Master Hyper T2
  
  Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
  
  With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
  
  No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
  
  I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
  
  Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
  
  There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
  
  Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
  
  If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
  
  Thanks.
  

HIGHLY recommend if you have less than $75 for a mAtx case. However, this is not my favorite mAtx case. The Phanteks mATX Tempered Glass Edition is almost better in every way except it is of course larger and costs more.

I have built 3 systems in this case.

PROS:

• LOTS of space for building. I would even recommend this for first time builders
  
  
• extremely good layout
  
  
• Rubber grommets
  
  
• EXCELLENT for clean cable routing
  
  
• Holds a shit ton of drives / drive cages are toolless
  
  
• Handles almost any size of PSU
  
  
• With supported fans, excellent air flow
  
  CONS:
  
  
• General fit and finish (on ALL my systems the side window did not match perfectly flush with rest of case and on boot up 2 of the systems had a weird rattling with the top grill).
  
  
• Side window scratches super easy even when carefully cleaned
  
  NEUTRAL:
  
  
• I have a shit ton of fans so I have to routinely dust this out much more often than any of my other systems BUT the system stays remarkably cool for just being on air.
  
  
• CPU cools very well with Noctua NH 9L / This air cooler does not overhang your RAM.
  
  
• MAKE SURE you check every single port on these. On 2 of the systems I've had at least one bad usb port right out of the box. Amazon swapped out cases and new ones had no problems.
  
  
• MAKE SURE your video card can clear the side window. The measurements are clearly stated and it's your own damn fault if you don't check this. This will fit most cards, even really long ones. It's the wide ones you have to check. I've had a GTX 980ti in this thing with no problems.

The coolers I'am using is a H75 for both and the kraken g10 is excellent. I went from my 80degree overload before this setup just relying on the acx cooling. After this setup, i get around 45-50 degree tops. So a 30 degree difference. Huge jump. But I would pick up these items to cool your vrams. The kraken g10's method of air cooling the vram is not enough.

Thermal Adhesive
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GIM9V8/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Order 3 sets of these for the big vram chips
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009

Order 2 sets of these for the smaller vram chips
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011&cm_re=Enzotech-_-35-708-011-_-Product

Corsair H75
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZHWFEW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_dp_2

Other than that, it's great and delivers a nice performance than what i expected. Would still love to do a full loop water cool but right now, I really love this setup and my temps don't go beyond 50 during heavy load like running crysis, battlefield 4, using unigene valley and many more demanding programs and games all at max settings and running the resolution at 3440x1440 is just nice.

They're good parts, but you could exchange them for something else. I would get [This Corsair PSU] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Modular-Bronze-ATX12V-EPS12V/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=lp_1161760_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408080018&sr=1-1) which is great for the price and reliable. The [Noctura Silent CPU Cooler] (http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408080045&sr=1-9&keywords=noctua) is very good but it is pricier than the 212, but having the 212 I can tell you that it can really get loud when the RPM's get going. Case is up to you, it's the part you will always be looking at, so get one that you will love for years to come.

Honestly, I think this is better. The 212 will not fit over that RAM, so you might as well go with something like the H60 which will probably cool even better for $55 (couldn't include it in the build because pcpartpicker doesn't have it listed). And btw, this PSU is excellent and you can get it for cheaper on amazon for like $122 since they have a higher rebate.

Part list permalink

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $314.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI Z68A-GD55 (B3) ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $134.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $44.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $44.99 @ Newegg
Hard Drive | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $104.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6970 2GB Video Card | $327.86 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master CM690 II Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case | $97.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $140.98 @ Newegg
|| Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) | $1271.76

That doesn't look like the correct Noctua U12S for AM4 boards.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01N9X2YYN

You're going to love this cooler. I have it and it is awesome. Super quiet and super efficient!

Edit: I should have said one ships with the AM4 bracket and one doesn't.

It has already been suggested. R9 390 is on the level of 970. Read post from Luz53. Or you can go with AMD CPU and buy 390X. I dont know about this one tho, since even fully overclocked FX will bottleneck 390X.

You can save some money on cooler as well Deepcool gammax 400 is a great cooling solution, very silent as well. I have it for 2 years and the fan is still like new.Here a review about it.

I totally get why you wanted FX processor. It is kinda meh for gaming, but only top end i5 and i7s beat it in edditing.

Hope it helps

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermalRight-True-Spirit-140-Direct/dp/B01MQCK1PJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ

I'm sure I'm missing some, as a 'murrican, but all of those will do the job well. The Thermalright is probably the best cooler of them for overclocking, the Noctua a bit more convenient (in terms of packaging, and they usually include a few fan accessories) and very close, while the Arctic Cooling one is a value option that will get the job done. If you're not planning on overclocking, the cheaper Arctic Cooling one will be every bit as good as either of the other two (and if you don't like the aesthetics, they sell a few different variants that are mainly different in colors).

I think a HEDT 5th gen should be compatible out of the box, but before you order, do verify that the cooler claims compatibility with your socket.

I want to upgrade my Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler. My goals are less noise and maybe some overclocking headroom. 3 of my options are:

​

|$24|Gammaxx 400|TDP 125W|RPM 1500|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|$36|Cryorig H7|TDP 150W|RPM 1600|
|$47|Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. b|TDP >200W|RPM 1200|

​

The first two are comparable to Hyper 212 Evo, and are good enough to cool the 2600. All 3 have a 120mm fan.

​

Do you think it would be sane to buy the Mugen 5 in order to have a quieter cooler, as well as... a much better cooler overall? Or should I go with the better value for the money?

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

Definitely go for the i5 4690k that's the best for gaming/overclocking just now I think. Hmm from what i can tell that case doesn't have any top mounted fans so you would use a single fan sized radiator for that. I think one of the best would be this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MYFOE2/?tag=pcpapi-20 or the h80 m not sure which is best.

You would mount the radiator on the back of the case as you can see they have done in this picture

Great case choice :D

I don't know what your application is for this build...but if you want to save money or deflect for another time, etc. I'd recommend just a single stick of 8GB ram (for now) - upgrading to the 16GB later. So this should drop it by ~$90.

Then I would recommend a SF450 or SF600 for your PSU - as this will open the door for future SFF builds as well. In addition to it, pick up the ATX to SFX adapter. What this will ALSO do is give you more room for your cooler to breath - if not get a bigger cooler that has better cooling capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527010539&sr=8-2&keywords=atx+sfx+adapter

This looks like you could probably get another ~20mm of room.

Which should allow you to get this instead...

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527010650&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+65

Or any cooler that's 65mm tall or less (since with an ATX PSU, your limit is 61mm. If you use an SFX PSU you'll gain ~20mm, so technically your limit is now 81mm - but of course you'll still want a gap so...).

These PSUs are $80-120. So there's that.

Otherwise, I think everything else looks good.

Since you're saying case+cooling under $175, I'm assuming you mean a self-contained WC setup, not an open loop.

At $175, your best bet is probably the Corsair Carbide 500R and the Corsair H60 or Antec Kuhler H20 620 or the In Win Buc and the Corsair H80. Of the two, the In Win Buc/H80 will give you better all around cooling.

Updated imgur with some more pics.

For the M1, I put together a CAD oriented machine for my friend who's in college for that stuff. 7700K, 32GB Vengeance 3200,ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I, Samsung 500GB M.2, and a FirePro W5100 (which was a breeze to fit hah.) I threw on an extra Vardar T-3 120mm fan to try and keep up with the 7700K. [Edit] Because information: Has Noctua Dual Tower CPU Cooler (92mm fan) and another 92 on the back exhaust. I couldn't fit the Vardar above the tower so only put 1 on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCEWTAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also threw in a pic of my progress on building a good race sim thus far. Thrustmaster Wheel, H-Shifter, and 3 pedals. "OpenWheeler" Chair/Frame thing (only recommend if you have to move it all the time.) Oh and an Oculus Rift :D Racing Sims are amazing in VR. Can't wait for more pixels.

Right on, do you think this one would work okay? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065SFEE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_rQTuzbJ116TFT

I don't want to skimp on it much, but if I could save a bit of money that would be awesome.

Thanks.

I'd change the cpu cooler, there's better for £30 and the hyper 212 is pretty old at this point. I use the Arctic freezer eSports duo on my 3600 and it's great.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=new


I'd also ask if you actually need an m.2 drive, you can get 1tb ssds for that price and if you're only gaming it won't really improve much. Or you could get 1tb m.2s for £90.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crucial-P1-1TB-3D-NAND-NVMe-PCIe-M-2-SSD/362700999234?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574894536%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5336549684%26customid%3D1856680989%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FCrucial-P1-1TB-3D-NAND-NVMe-PCIe-M-2-SSD%252F362700999234%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2187686867772%26rvr_ts%3D8342944f16e0a4d0bb476af4ffaed381&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true


For the graphics card I'd suggest a 5700xt unless you
have a gsync monitor or want ray tracing. There's 20% discount on eBay atm and you can get a 5700xt for £340, there's probably cheaper 2060 supers , and I definitely saw that motherboard on there.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-RX-5700-XT-8GB-Graphics-Card/362701778200?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574894536&toolid=10001&campid=5336549684&customid=1856676075&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F%2F362701778200&srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&rvr_id=2187751728144&rvr_ts=833978d616e0aae859c5e4e3ffe3e7e9&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=7a06f2ba-89f3-4c05-8563-cd7f13ea1288&epid=3034200420


For the ram I'd spend a little more for a bit faster. Like this 3600mhz for £68.

https://www.cclonline.com/product/298935/PVS416G360C7K/Desktop-Memory/Patriot-Viper-Steel-Seties-16GB-2-x-8GB-PC4-28800-3600MHz-1-35V-CL17-DDR4-Desktop-Memory-Dual-Channel-Kit/RAM4288/?siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-rCFyJxqLf1ZbGKFEkvVBUg&siteID=hL3Qp0zRBOc-jUMJS0Pjeq9i2zomkOskiw

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JSKCW3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SBFGRB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB3Y89E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BP7RQTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPLOQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ6A88G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYGFRL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSMTN31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759FTRZL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARGXM0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total as of right now for available purchase is around $800 with out taxes! I spent $742! I just put things i want into my cart on amazon and when the price drops i buy! I do shop around other websites and amazon still was the better choice and with free non-prime shipping! who cares if it comes two days later than normal. shoot ive had things come after two days with the free shipping.

you can use the rest.. and you can use a splitter to say join pairs / tripples of fans onto one header..

Like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008YD7B0M

Which I got an like.. they make less fancy ones and also splitter cables https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-2-Fan-Splitter/dp/B01DV1Z0Z4

That you can use to just have 2 fans into one header..

CPU-Opt AIO and ext fan headers are just extra fan headers.. the AIO ones usually can handle more AMP's (like from a water pump) and hence you could hook more fans up to that header.. yo just need to make sure you do not go above the rated amps for a give fan header.. like tying to put (6) .5 amp fans on a 1amp fan header.. most fans are more in the range of .15 amps or less so you can put at least 2 and as many as 4 per header..

As u/OC2k16 said I use an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Started with a Huge Zalman air cooler: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-Heatsink-135mm-CNPS9900-Blue/dp/B0046Y79HS

I then upgraded/sidegraded (similar temps, quieter) to a NZXT Kraken https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-X41-140mm-Kraken-Water-Cooler/B00MA5V72I/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423661&sr=1-1&keywords=kraken+x41

I can't remember the exact thermal paste, it may be MX2. Currently running at around 37c with chrome, steam spotify etc running. Under full load it doesn't go above 50c.

Also, your case/cooler fans make a huge difference. I run 6x 140mm Noctua fans:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-case-fan/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423889&sr=1-6&keywords=noctua

2x on the radiator in push pull, 1 on roof, one on base and 2 in my intake. Case fans are all controlled by a Bitfenix Recon fan controller, running 3rd party controller software called Phoebetria. PC is silent when not under load.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BitFenix-Recon-controllers-Active-Sensor/dp/B008BZTL38/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423992&sr=1-1&keywords=bitfenix+recon

I have all of this inside a Fractal Design R4 case. Amazing fan locations, space, cable management and it has dampening material to reduce noise.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Define-Case-Computer/dp/B009XLMYJC/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491424131&sr=1-1&keywords=R4

Case shot: http://imgur.com/cJcVlO7

Controller : http://imgur.com/5hmQidi

I'd like the opinion of my peers here:

I'm upgrading the CPU cooler from the stock cooler so I can take advantage of my i5-7500K (I can't find the K anywhere, but I'm 99% sure it is) and actually overclock the thing so I can actually get 60fps on Assassin's Creed Odyssey. I only get about 45-60fps in that game. I've never overclocked before, so that will be a journey in it of itself.

It's between the Hyper 212 Evo and the be quiet! Dark Rock 4. I have them both up in tabs and am trying to decide. I imagine they run comparably, but the Dark Rock 4 matches my mostly black with some white build better. The Dark Rock 4 is also the recommended cooler by Tom's Hardware, which I like to use as a resource.

I also looked at the Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M but that might be too much RGB for me. Only RGB thing in my build is on my motherboard and it's just like a pulsating red light.

A true first world problem deciding if an all-black cooler is worth an extra $50. But what do you think?

Also, here's the build otherwise:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.89 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $63.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $128.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.89 @ OutletPC

Edit: I'm second guessing if I can even overclock this CPU. I swear the GeForce Experience thing told me my CPU was an i5-7500K, but those don't seem to exist and the amazon page doesn't tell me if I can overclock. I need to go home and get in front of it and double check.

You want cheap?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Motherboard-Addressable-Universal-CL-P065-AL12SW/dp/B06X9Q1K88/

This is what I use on my 1700. At stock speeds, this is silent, the fan spins at a maximum of 600 rpm. At 3.8GHz, it was still very quiet.

$25 makes this one of the cheapest heatsinks out there. It utilizes the stock heatsink mounting bracket, so you don't have to deal with screwing in a separate plate, you just press the clips down around the hooks and that's it, one of the simplest and easiest installs. The fan clips are designed so that you can mount pretty much any 120mm fan that's 25mm thick. A lot of other heatsinks have issues with their fan clips mounting fans that have ribs or whatnot. If its original fan begins to die on you, you can replace it with a much nicer one. This heatsink's fan clips can for example mount a Noiseblocker Multiframe, or a Gentle Typhoon.

Other more expensive heatsinks are better, but diminishing returns ramps extremely fast past $20. The $60 Noctua is better than this, but for the same noise level, you'd probably only get maybe an extra 100MHz overclock.

This build looks sharp. The only way that I would like to contribute to it is by adding more case fans can get a different cooler for the cpu. In my opinion the the cooler that comes with the processor isn't the best. I would recomend you to buy an artic cooler. I own a ryzen 5 2600 myself and I have to admit it is very easily overheated. Since i bought this cooler everything went smooth and the PC didn't overheat anymore. My pc is less demanding than yours.

I think this cooler will benefit your build greatly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=twister_B07RYMKPWZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

I noticed that that your pc case come already with two 120mm fans. In my opinion another one wouldn't hurt. I'm sure you know that air flow is very important in a build. Anyway I must admit you build is very cool. I wouldn't change anything else.

Hope this was useful

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/knpj8Y

I managed to shave off $33 using by switching the MOBO to a better priced one, the Power supply, and the m.2 ssd to a regular 2.5" 512GB SSD which should deliver more than good enough performance. I recommend you run the stock cooler until you save up to buy one like

https://www.amazon.com/darkFlash-Aluminum-Addressable-Motherboard-Control/dp/B07PMHXLPP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=RYHATP4X26VC&keywords=am4+cpu+cooler&qid=1566531245&refinements=p_36%3A-3000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sprefix=am4+cpu%2Celectronics%2C235&sr=1-4

or

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=sr_1_5?crid=RYHATP4X26VC&keywords=am4+cpu+cooler&qid=1566531261&refinements=p_36%3A-3000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sprefix=am4+cpu%2Celectronics%2C235&sr=1-5

If you want a constant 144fps to match your 144hz monitor. I recommend going with a

RTX 2070 (Gpu)

i7 8700k (Cpu)

Be quiet dark rock 4 (Cpu cooler)

Gigabyte z390 Gaming X (Motherboard)

At this point it’s penny pinching. Things like storage and the case. But since you didn’t mention a budget, im optimizing for gaming.

Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250g (m.2 NVME ssd)

Mushkin Source 500g Sata 3 (Reg SSD)

Seagate Barracuda 1tb (HDD)

NZXT H500 (Case)

The reason for 3 storage devices is that the HDD is for larger games. The m.2 ssd is for smaller games. Then the standard ssd is for Windows.

Links for everything are below.

RTX 2070 ($479.99)

i7 8700k ($363.18)

Gigabyte z390 Gaming X ($139.99)

Nvme M.2 SSD ($69.99)

SSD ($54.99)

HDD ($47.99)

Case ($69.99)

Cpu Cooler ($74.90)

All this totals out to: $1301.02 USD.

Obviously this is all from amazon. I’m an amazon boy. But you can search Newegg for these same products and see if they’re any cheaper, to save even more $.

​

Edit: Added Prices next to links, added link to Newegg.

May I suggest the system below (NAS v3.0) or search eBay for Dell R710 or T710 (R=rackmount, T=tower). Much more powerful and less $$. Also, look into WD EasyStore 8TB @ $140 Amazon or BestBuy; easy to shuck. Look into FreeNAS and Docker for all the apps you want/need to use (www.DockSTARTer.com). The build that follows is to give you a great idea; maybe a different case for more storage, or larger PSU as you want multiple HDDs

​

Core-Build (dual CPU) (no storage, no frills)

• Dual Xeon L5630 $4.00 x 2 = $8.00
  
• Intel S5500BC $35.00 after OBO
  
• 2x4GB = 8GB $20.00
  
• Antec Three Hundred Two $62.00
  
• Cooler Master MWE 500W PSU $30.00
  
• Arctic Freezer 12 $20.00 X 2 = $40.00
  
  Total $195.00

Ahh i see.

You can get a fan hub or pwm splitter for pretty cheep

DeepCool Fan HUB CPU Cooler Powers up to 4 Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YD7B0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p83TBb8YR29TC
Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S83TBbCHG6HJT

I think i just confused myself. Okay. Starting from scratch. I have the cooler linked https://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 here. It has a 120mm fan on it. The fan connects to the motherboards cpu fan pins. I would like a fan to replace this one that has rgb (pink mostly). I'm hoping whatever I get works with rgb fusion through the gigabyte software. I can't afford a full nzxt setup as nice as they look

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X2YYN

That is specifically for AM4. It will cool the CPU pretty much the same as the Hyper 612, but costs over twice as much. Pretty much every CPU cooler manufacturer offers a free AM4 bracket. There are only a few that come with the bracket and they're more expensive. It's up to you if sending an email and waiting a week is worth saving $35.

Not normally, no.

With that case, pretty much anything should fit. I'm personally running a 6600k @ 4.5 GHz topped out around 50 C under a NH-U9S. Noctua is pretty solid. If you want cheaper, the 212 EVO is pretty much universally acclaimed for its price point.

This is what I have for my 1600 (non x) and I can say for a cheapish cooler I couldn't be happier.
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=artic%2Bfreezer%2B34&qid=1562195615&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

I used the wraith spire on my overclocked (3.9 GHz 1.375v) 1600 for about a year and a half before upgrading to this. That said there is something to be said about free and the prism is better than the spire. I'd give it 6 months. If you wish your temps were cooler or just want to upgrade ( as was my case) then do it! It's fun to play every so often.

I use a few of these Noctua fans, super quiet and great airflow. Not purple or black though.

For my CPU, I've had this Cooler Master for a long time. Affordable, quiet, and works great.

That's awesome! Thank you so much for helping me out!

I just have a couple of things I want to ask. Do you think this cpu cooler would keep me safe? And I'm not entirely set on that case. It was kind of an impulse buy, so do you have any suggestions on a different one?

You can power the fans with the molex connector, but then they will operate at their maximum speed constantly, most likely generating a lot of noise.

A better solution would be a product like this that will take a single header and allow you to connect up to 4 fans. I personally use at least one of these in both of my systems, they're very good.

I've heard more about the hyper 212 than the master air and the reviews about the 212 have all been good. Not necessarily bigger is better, but most times that's the case haha. But consider this budget air cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO. It's a solid performer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lQNZDbA4VYTBD

My bad for not linking it properly I'm on mobile lol

Edit: if budget isn't an issue, I'd highly recommend going with Noctua's Air cooling options or BeQuiet! (specifically the dark rock pro 4) options as well. Both highest quality and highest performance air cooling options.

I like noctua for the quality and great cooling, they are ugly though. You can get a great cooler like this Noctua Dual Tower CPU Cooler for Intel LGA 2011-0/LGA 2011-3 Square ILM/1156/1155/1150 and AMD AM2/AM2+/AM3/3+,FM1/2 NH-D9L which you could attach a second fan on the intake side for more cooling, also it pushes air across your mobo which I like. There are smaller low profile ones on amazon that lay flat.

You don't need to liquid cool if you don't like noise.

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8

It's incredibly silent, and an incredibly powerful air cooler that will let you do some pretty wicked overclocking.

It's better value than the H55 and quieter due to Noctuas awesome fans.

I believe framerate is dictated more by GPU than CPU but, if this makes you feel any better, you're getting the most out of your 960.

I have a 1070 and a 144mhz monitor but I don't get 144fps consistently. I usually stick in the 120 range (maybe 130s? I don't recall). And it definitely dips depending on the action.

You should put a fan on that CPU though. The fact that it's running so hot may be affecting your performance as well. These are the best and they run silently. Comes with the heat sync.

Hey Hana, Honestly your picks look great to me, i can help you answering the 8700K question, I have experience overclocking a 8700K with an ASUS board.

Asus has built in presets, i was also scared to screw up while overclocking, but in the end it was the easiest thing to do, i just had to set "extreme overclocking" profile in BIOS, and voila, all 6 cores set to 5.0Ghz and XMP enabled to OC my RAM

You just need robust cooling to make sure it doesnt overheat, maybe try liquid cooling? This one always rocks all comparisons and reviews: (there is an rgb version, the H115i Pro if youre into that)

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060026-WW-Extreme-Performance-Cooling/dp/B019955W7C

As a previous NCASE owner I can tell you the H105 is overkill. Half the radiator and fan one it will be either blowing air on, or sucking air from the PSU. A single slot AIO is what you would want, but honestly you would get better performance out of something like a Noctua NH-L9x65.

by cooler i mean the whole thing which is the heatspreader + the fan mounted to it. if you got something like this https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTsjphLeUGOajYWQrmlc8U0GkZGYoYBUTrAxvxIWDEgXd-Zm5NJ6w then you have a stock cooler. if your 2600 is a non k i would suggest you to get a more efficient cooler which will also be much quiter. as you cannot overclock non-k properly i recommend to get some entry level which will be far sufficient to reduce your heat under load to the 50-60s and also be much less noisy. https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-A11-Installation-Professional/dp/B00HO9P0J6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582552&sr=8-7&keywords=arctic+cpu or https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-T2-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582571&sr=8-4&keywords=master+cooler+cpu or https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-SCKTN-4000-KATANA-Cooler-Socket/dp/B01E57PPR6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506582518&sr=8-2&keywords=scythe+katana will all be much better than the stock cooler.

It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.

I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.

Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.

These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.

On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.

The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).

Scythe Fuma: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-SCFM-1000-SCFM-1000-Fuma-CPU-Cooler/dp/B016XLGATE

Noctua NH-D15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK

BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9

These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.

How would the Noctua NH-D9L do for overclocking with this set up? It’s a little smaller and only has one fan but the reviews seem good and I like the way it looks better.

Noctua NHD9L

Sure thing! I’m using an NH-12 like this one Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 120mm Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X2YYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_10fuDbDV16QJF

But really any decent tower-type cooler with a 120mm or bigger fan will be more than enough to keep your CPU cool. Preferably one that uses a standard case fan so that down the road you can replace it or add a second fan if you want.

Anyone got any suggestions for a cpu cooler for a 7700k? I've currently got this one in my list, but I'd like one that fits the build colour of red and black a bit better.

I don't plan on overclocking as soon as I build, but will in the future. UK, fast delivery would be good, everything else is arriving next few days.

oh no i wasn't the one who picked the cooler haha. i already have a much better cooler otw.. unless you mean that one?

I already order the 212 evo black to replace this stock one last week.. should (hopefully) be arriving in a couple days. do you suppose that cooler will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PC-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B07H22TC1N

\^ this one here specifically, RBG LED was only $1.50 more so i went for it. pretty sure that's the only difference, i hope

On this note, if your computer is a desktop (which I think it is, from context) an aftermarket CPU cooler unit may be simpler than just replacing the OEM fan.

I have no experience with buying CPU cooling hardware, but it doesn't look to be too expensive for a simple system. Just realize that you don't need a crazy amount of cooling; your stock system was perfectly capable of cooling your CPU, and has probably just worn out with age.

This is assuming, of course, that physical damage to your fan is the problem at hand. If you blow the dust out and everything works fine, more power to ya.

On a side note, hold the fan still when blowing it with compressed air. If you let it spin freely, you could damage the bearings.

Also you can look at other air coolers. I was looking and it seems a lot of them do not come with a compatible bracket, and the ones that do are a bit more expensive than something like a 212 and ordered bracket.

Something like this

Anything like that or the 212 with AM4 bracket would be an improvement over stock cooler for sure!

PC Setup (Generated from my old spreadsheet)

• XFX Radeon RX 580 GTS Black Edition 1425MHz OC+, 8GB GDDR5 ($219) https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1425MHz-Graphics-RX-580P8DBD6/dp/B071CD6K6Z
  
• ASUS ROG Maximus X Hero (Wi-Fi AC) LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z370 ($259) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJ944T/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 1TB - NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 SSD ($169) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• CORSAIR Hydro Series H110i AIO Liquid CPU Cooler ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019955W7C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Intel Core i7-8086K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 5.0 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 300 Series 95W ($379.99) https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-8086K-Desktop-Processor-unlocked/dp/B07DGDWJ3P/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Intel%2BCore%2Bi7-8086K&qid=1553548453&s=electronics&sr=1-3-catcorr&th=1
  
• G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) ($344) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232560&Description=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ&cm_re=F4-3200C14D-32GTZ--20-232-560--Product
  
• Phanteks Evolv X PH-ES518XTG_DAG01 Anthracite Gray Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Computer Case ($199) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854077
  
• EVGA Supernova 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan ($109) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BE058W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Comes to roughly $1,963 for the tower itself which is pretty cheap all things considering
  
  ​
  
  If you are interested in my monitors at all, I'm using the following
  
  
• [Main Monitor] Alienware 1900R 34.1", Curved Gaming Monitor LED-Lit, WQHD 3440 x 1440p Resolution, 4ms 120Hz Overclocked Refresh Rate, NVIDIA G-Sync, 21:9 Aspect Ratio, HDMI, Display Port, 4x USB 3.0, AW3418DW ($799 on sale BF) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777RY75V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Other 2 are LG's I've purchased a year apart several years ago (3-5), I can't even find the links to them anymore. Got them both when WQHD just started becoming a thing
  
• LG Electronics UM95 34UM95-P 34-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor ($599)
  
  ​
  
  Other
  
  
• Jarvis Desk Base ($450) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N023V8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Blue Yeti Microphone ($115) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1YPXW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• InnoGear Microphone Suspension Mic Clip ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L3LL95O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Dragonpad Pop Filter ($13) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  This would have been a perfect opportunity to generate affiliate links, but I don't care. Hopefully that helps!

Having framerate issues in tf2, which is expected when the game is as old and unoptimized as it is. Right now I'm running 1440p/144hz, but will probably swap it out for a 1080p/165hz in the future.

As for current temps, I idle at ~35°C, running MSI Kombustor's CPU burner on all 8 threads has me jumping up to 85°C almost instantly, reaching just under 90°C after about a minute. I'll chalk up the higher temps earlier to warmer ambient temperature, but I may take a look at the thermal paste if this sounds wrong.

Currently I don't see any potential for overclocking with my current cooler, hence the desire for a better one.

Looking at the Noctua NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4 right now, if that opens up any suggestions.

Would this CPU cooler work better? I'm tight on money, is the CPU and GPU the best for ~$200? Would this gpu be better?

Thanks for the reply.

1. Not overclocking (not even sure how to overclock...)
   
   
2. Corsair Hydro Series Cooling H75 Performance Liquid CPU Cooler attached with arctic silver polysynthetic silver thermal compound
   
   
3. My SMBIOS says iMac 18,1 About htis mac says iMac (21.5-inch, 2017)
   
   
4. Which you never asked for, my power supply is Corsair RMx Series, RM650x, 650 Watt
   
   I have a feeling it's cooling related which is why I was hoping to confirm by monitoring the temperature. I can hear the fans going crazy, so it sounds like it is trying to cool off, and then shutting itself off to prevent overheating.
   

I wouldn't use up my Jet code to save only $11. Best to use it on something that costs at least $250 to get the max value out of it. Amazon also has it for $55 and you don't have to wait on Jet's shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8

ARCTIC Freezer i32 might be a good fit, it's semi passive so the fan doesn't spin at all in desktop use and it's pretty quiet under load as well.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-i32-Controller-Technology/dp/B0119SJ3L8

Because you're going with a K series CPU you'll probably want to overclock at some point.

You're going to want to get a different cooler- the i7 8700K runs hot, and the hyper 212 evo isn't a very good cooler. It'll barely be sufficient at stock frequencies, and with an overclock it'll certainly not be enough.

​

I'd recommend something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9?th=1

​

I'd also add in this ssd:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/?tag=pcpapi-20

​

An SSD improves user experience *dramatically*. You'll want to install windows on it, not the HDD.

For all you novice builders like me out there, I suggest that you go with this. It's a good cooler that's cheap and the best part is that it installs like a stock cooler. This may not be the best for heavy overclocking but if you want a cooler that's cheap, has a PWM fan, installs easily, and is not too big (I've got a compact mid tower and this is one of the only non low profile coolers that will fit), you can't go wrong with this.

This is definitely not normal. The stock CPU Cooler should be able to handle it fairly well, but your temperatures are too high. Consider buying a better Cooler like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-HT2-28PK-R1-Hyper-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-3

​

If you don't want to buy a new Cooler, you should re-apply the thermal paste as this is abnormal behavior even for the stock Cooler.

So with that case it looks like you're limited to a max cooler height to 65mm, and if you use all of it up you'd be right up to the bottom of the power supply. I'm going to preface this with saying I have my doubts on keeping a 5ghz overclock cool with a cooler under 65mm, but it looks like your best options are Cryorig C7 and the noctua nh-l9 or noctua NH-L9I. The larger noctua may not fit because it maybe touching your power supply. But from what I saw in a few videos the cryorig and the smaller noctua perform similarly just that the noctua was a quieter.

Okay sir, I'm home!

1x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermicro-X9DRi-LN4F-Dual-LGA2011-1-20-Support-E5-2600-v2-24x-Slot-DDR3-I-O/112742607987?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 for $275

2x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermicro-X9DRi-LN4F-Dual-LGA2011-1-20-Support-E5-2600-v2-24x-Slot-DDR3-I-O/112742607987?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $70 apiece

2x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-32GB-kit-4x8gb-2Rx4-PC3L-10600R-DDR3-1333-ECC-Server-RAM/202255434298?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $89 apiece - you could do 1x easily

1x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermicro-24-Bay-Chassis-SAS846TQ-SATA-Server-Intel-2x-2-4GHz-32GB-X8DTi-9650SE/152964486268?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $219 + $89 shipping.

3x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PERC-H310-Adapter-8-Port-6Gb-s-SAS-RAID-Controller/183112116482?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $27.50 apiece

3x https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Mini-12Gbps-SAS-SFF-8087-36Pin-to-4-SATA-7Pin-HDD-Hard-Drive-Splitter-Cable/401051944262?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $12.90 apiece

1x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supermicro-Power-Supply-PWS-920P-SQ-920W-1U-80-Platinum-Redundant-Server-Power/162967803163?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $99 (what came with it was LOUD!)

2x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WRPFFJN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $20 apiece (they went up, shop around)

1x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJG62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $20.68 (stock was loud as hell!)

1x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00353EKR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $6.27 - screws for drive trays.

Total $1318 for a 16CPU core/32 core hyperthreaded server with 64gig of ECC ram capable of supporting 24 drives in bays and a few more inside if I was crazy. It "should" be quiet, I'll know when the new PSU shows up and can update but I've been informed by others.. Right now it's about 58db all from the PSU <ahem>.

If you were to just buy the chassis I did, the SAS cards, the fans, the heatsinks, the cables, and the PSU, you would be able to do this for about half what I did. It would be fewer cores and perhaps slower by some margin but for an unRAID box it would be damn nice with lots of room for drives. If you shop around you might even be able to do it cheaper than I did! I almost bought ten core CPU btw, they would've been another $140 together lol

Hope that helps, fire away with questions if you've got them. This is basically a /u/JDM_WAAAT system and I got plenty of advice from the Discord channel on it and from his Youtube videos.

Ok, I'm gonna add another 140 mm case fan at the request front and get a new cooler. Thanks for your help and such a swift response.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZHWFEW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That's the one I'm looking at. Seems legit?

Looking at exactly the same combo with the ncase m1 - ordered the 2080 Ti, waiting for the 9900k + a mini-itx board now, but looking at going the aircooling route, most likely a noctua U9S with NF-A9s. Not planning to overclock as mostly going to be used for gaming. Hoping to get an opinion on whether an Accelero will help further lower temps, or better to stick with stock?

Yeah. I have a Corsair H75 currently. I'm pretty confident that will work. I think the play right now is to go for the 6600k. It will cost me around $500 right now to upgrade the CPU after I include the CPU, mobo, & RAM.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/shNypg/noctua-nh-d15-se-am4-1402-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15-se-am4

This is complete overkill, but it's THE Noctua cooler to have.

You could also get something basic like these:

• https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK008-Pure-Rock-Slim/dp/B01KVNCEIG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496800603&sr=1-4&keywords=am4%2Bcooler&th=1
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496800603&sr=1-3&keywords=am4+cooler
  
  And add a fan like this:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/noctua-NF-P12-PWM-Noctua/dp/B006I6HMXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496800682&sr=1-1&keywords=noctua+p12

This one. It was super awkward to install and the motherboard clips kept giving me issues. I assure you it's on there tight and not causing any temp issues lol

The reason to swap the fans is more for noise, not performance.

If you don't care about aesthetics (or if Noctua's color scheme doesn't bother you) get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or seek out an alternative with similar esteem. Noctua is about as good as it gets, but there are at least a couple other brands out there that give them a run for their money.

I have these on a Corsair h115i and they work like a charm, though that's hardly surprising.

This is awesome! quick question, do you know if on that board with those memory sticks I could use a Scythe Big Shuriken 2 The other fan seems pretty hard to get, other than that this is ace!

I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.

As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.

Going with the SFX internal PSU mount?

Here's the slim Noctua fans I recommend for the top, will need the "Top Mount Bracket" to mount two of these.

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-a12x15-pwm-case-fan/p/1YF-000T-00091

On the rear get one of the NF-A9:

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-a9-pwm-case-fan/p/N82E16835608070

Then for intake I would get two of the 140mm A14 fans

https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6

Can of course sub these for any brand, I think be quiet! fans are the next best option.

I had a i5 3570k for a very long time before I upgraded recently, if you haven't overclocked yet, you will definitely want to if you are going to upgrade your GPU.

I'd recommend overclocking your CPU to ~4.2GHz or so with a decent air cooler like the Deepcool Gammax 400, and picking up a RX 580 as you will be able to utilize freesync if your monitor supports it.

Do you have a single or two fan GPU? My single fan GTX 1060 never gets above 70°C. I have this fan on the bottom with a dust filter, for intake to cool the GPU. And I'm using the NH-D9L for the CPU, with a NF-A9 fan on the back of the case directly behind the CPU cooler, pushing air out the back.

So just to make sure (i am a total noob at this), i have this cpu cooler: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B019955W7C/
And assuming that the cooler i have, has a water pump, i should put it in CPU_OPT/W_PUMP header, right?!
Thanks for helping :)

The 3700X at stock is a pretty cooling running chip. This means pretty much any decent cooler will do the job for you. I have used the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO and the Scythe Big Shuriken 3 on a 3800X and they do a good job, should be great on a 3700X and both are around the $40 price point. No need to spend a lot of money to get quiet cooling. Also consider the Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 a little more expensive but it is after all Noctua :-)

Noctua NH-U9S, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A9 92mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wiYCb9J1PK95

I got this cooler, it works well. I also got an additional fan for intake on the other side of the cooler. I'm sure the stock cooler works, but I wanted to be sure I would get the best performance, and not have to swap coolers later and worry about replacing thermal paste.

Since no one seems to be seeing this, I'll move it to the top. Check out the M3A2, a custom case currently in development. It seems to be what you are looking for, but it is still in pre-production.

There are even more: the Digital Storm Bolt, as well as the very expensive Falcon Tiki.

As for a consumer case that you can purchase separately, there are none that I know of. There is, however, a member of [H]ardforum who is working on fabricating his own. His website is here, and the thread on the case is here. The case is called the M3A2. He is currently working out issues in the beta cases, and it sounds like he may be able to produce them this summer, with full customization options. Hope this helps!

Oh, and also note that those cases use mITX boards, not mATX. Many of these boards come with built in wifi. Overclocking in such a small case is difficult, but there are some low profile coolers that would be much better than stock, such as the Scythe Shuriken.

I would recommend getting a different cooler. I have that same board, and these coolers work well: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-12-Compact-Recommended/dp/B06WRPFFJN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1541292046&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+freezer+12&linkCode=sl1&tag=serverbuilds-20&linkId=8a59c573559bf5ce4d6d4ef2e653dc07&language=en_US

​

They are a little tight (the bracket touches the DIMM), but once installed they work great.

Not really, if you have a better cooler than the stock cooler you could overclock the CPU to like 4.5Ghz rather easily. So you just need the GPU upgrade.

For CPU cooler you could get something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-i32-Controller-Technology/dp/B0119SJ3L8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1495984188&sr=8-8&keywords=arctic+freezer

So I've order this;

ARCTIC Freezer i32 - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan for Intel with New Fan Controller Made in Germany and PWM Sharing Technology (PST) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0119SJ3L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RbHyzbAMHXJX4

Then I'll mount it, test the temps and if this thing is getting better temps than the X62 then I'll request an RMA with nzxt

Hey man, I'll never turn away a free opinion or suggestion!

-Ram is fully pushed in
-GPU fan stays on
--I can unplug the output from a laptop's HDMI that is functioning and plug into the desktop build, and get nothing. Suspect the desktop build just has nothing to report... Motherboard ?

I'm pretty familiar with fixing/messing with computers, but admittedly this is my first build. The build is as follows:

-Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6S1B3Q/

-Motherboard: ASUS Z10PE-D16 WS (new)

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813132416

-CPUs: 2x E5-2697 v3 (Ebay – used from Canada)

-PSU: EVGA Supernova 1000 PQ (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVQKWYH/

-Coolers: 2x Noctua NH-D9L (new)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QCEWTAW/

-GPU: MSI Radeon RX650 (used but tested working on my other server)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072J422CZ/

-RAM: 4 x Hynix HMA42GR7MFR4N-TF 16GB DDR4-2133 2Rx4 ECC REG Server Memory (new)

At this point, the motherboard will get juice, the power and reset button will light up, I get two LEDs on the mobo lighting up (one is the onboard administrator/controller flashing LED), and the GPU fan will spin up mildly, but will not get anything as far as BIOS posting out of HDMI or DisplayPort on the GPU to a good screen. I get a power dip when I hit the case’s power button (I live in an older 1960’s home), but nothing comes of it.

I’ve went through the cabling and I think I’ve got everything right. I’ve tried single CPU, 1-4 sticks of RAM, etc, and I’m drawing a blank. I bought 4x 16gb of RAM that met the specs per the manual, but weren't on the manufacturer's short "compatible list". So I bought two more sticks of compatible RAM per ASUS, and they still don't allow boot.

Look for coolers with fans lay flat on the side like these.

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-Premium-Cooler-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480967139&sr=8-3&keywords=noctua+cooler

https://www.amazon.ca/Axpertec-Inc-Noctua-Low-Profile-NH-L12/dp/B007C861WO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480967139&sr=8-8&keywords=noctua+cooler

Bonus point they looks much better in a tower case.

So your D14 was good enough to allow for a good OC? Also, when I said dual tower I was referring to this one. Do you think that would work well enough or should I choose between the Phanteks TC14Pe and D14/D15 dual towers?

Take a look at the NH-D9L, possibly pairing it with another Pull fan of your choice. It's small, has good performance for its size, a bit pricey, and kinda cute. I like mine.

CPU cooler goes to the CPU_Fan header (assuming a single fan cooler - if two fans, use the CPU_Opt or use a hub if the cooler comes with one).

If the CPU_opt is open, one of the exhaust fans can go there.

Chassis fan 1 - one exhaust fan (or two if CPU_Opt is not open)

Chassis fan 2 - two intake fans

You can use a basic hub/splitter like this one.

But it's up to you, you can safely put 3 fans to one header. You could do 3 fans to chassis 1 and 1 fan to chassis 2 and only need to buy one hub. If the CPU_opt is open you can also use just one hub.

The 1600's stock cooler works great, best budget option obviously.

If you're buying used and it doesn't include a cooler, a good replacement is Gammaxx 400.

If you're trying to heavily overclock, then Scythe Mugen 5 or Thermalright Macho.

Can anyone recommend me a good case fan that doesn’t break the bank. This is what I’m considering. Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.44jDb181J55G

I'm in a similar boat as you. The Spire is a great stock cooler even with minimal overclocking. The Stealth is just not up to par. But those 7 series come with the pretty Prism!

All that said, a Hyper 212 RGB Black is only $40 on Amazon.

be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XAstDbDVVEBR0

That's the pro 4, it's the higher end version of the one you posted for the same price on Amazon.

Or here is the slim for $65 on Newegg, I guess it is a bit more than $40:

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-001F-00030

And if you want something a little cheaper, my friend uses this on his 8700k, so a 7700k should be absolutely fine:

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm CPU Cooler with AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VDstDbEBZAD0N

This one is good if you want to go with air or you could go water cooling like this one if you want to OC a little farther. Either will be much better than stock and should get you over 4ghz.

For a Ryzen 3700x on an ITX board, which of the following would be better for low temperatures and low noise?

Noctua NH-L9x65
Cooler Master MasterAir G100M

To note:
With the Noctua I have a little more space on the side of the case to fit a third case fan.
The Noctua website says "should be used with care on CPUs with more than 84W TDP"
CM website says " the heatsink has cooling capacity of 130W TDP"
Not a huge fan of the brown Noctua fan color, rest of the build is black and white.
The price difference is only $10 atm so I'm not taking it into consideration.

> also my mobo seems to have only 1 case fan slot. how to find if i have more?

Use fan header splitters for that. Use Deepcool Fan Hub for that. Converts one header into 4. Costs 600/-

And for the fan itself, get the Coolermaster Masterfan MF120L for 620/- and comes with a 2 years warranty!

$700 is a bit tight for some of the newer games, this is the best i could come up with that fits reasonably close to that.

AMD FX-8350

Corsair H75

Gigabyte AM3+ 990FX

corsair vengence pro 2x4

MSI radeon rx470

corsair r500

EVGA 500w


i would recommend you wait a month or so in case the price of AM3+ stuff drops due to the ryzen being released, if that happens you might be able to afford an rx480

I now have 2 intake and 2 exhaust with my CPU fan pointed towards my top exhaust for a small amount of neg pressure.
Question: Its my understanding that the side with the logo is the intake side. But when I stick my hand in my pc to feel airflow, half the fans feel reversed???

The specific fans im using are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- The fan on that CPU was replaced with this fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119T0D4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 --- So that the cooler master fan is the frontal intake and the other fan is the CPU fan.

Then I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S10KK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 --- one intake and one exhaust.

i would choose the 3600 with a better cooler. But none of those. The freezer 34 esports duo is great for 30€. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=J3GQ8UXH3K93&keywords=arctic+freezer+34+esports+duo&qid=1562780599&s=gateway&sprefix=freezer+34%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-7

​

If you want to spend ~50€ the Scythe Fuma. For 70+ the dark rock pro 4 or Noctua D15.

Case fans won't make a huge impact on CPU temp. Spending an extra $20 on a better cooler like the H7 or Arctic i32 will get you better temps and let you do some moderate overclocking.

Checkout the i32 (Just using amazon as a ref for the cooler)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0119SJ3L8/?tag=pcpapi-20

For less than US$20 you can get an oversize CPU fan designed for gamers that uses liquid cooling. Here is the fan I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7809O2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, if you are using Windows I'd recommend a monitoring utility like Speccy (https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy) to monitor CPU temperature.

No problem, and good luck! Make sure to do plenty of research before buying, there are a lot of options out there.

I personally just purchased this and I'm very happy with it.

NH-D15 isn't AM4 compatible out of the box. You would need to get the AM4 mounting kit with it in addition to the cooler. The SE-AM4 is specific for the AM4 socket and already has everything you need.

These prices seem rather high though. I have the NH-D15 with the AM4 bracket and I think the total for both was $80. I am guessing prices are higher atm because of the Zen2 launch.

​

edit:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK021-Extremely-Cooling-Performance/dp/B07BYP9S95/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=cpu+cooler&qid=1563060517&s=gateway&sr=8-11

​

Supposed to be pretty good too and should also now come with AM4 mounting bracket (As of 2019 anyways). Look for reviews - its rated for 200W so should be fine with an R7 processor and is nearly half the cost of the SE-AM4

Not familiar with it personally but judging by the layout it looks pretty hardcore, pricey tho!

Alternatively... DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400 CPU Air Cooler with 4 Heatpipes, 120mm PWM Fan and Blue LED for Intel/AMD CPUs (AM4 Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQ2YDCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wrsyDbCHRBZKR

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B

Dark Rock 4

Noctua NH-U12s (Newly released black colored versions)

Alternatively, you can get the dual tower versions for the Dark Rock and Noctua coolers. You can also get another fan for the Scythe if you want.

I personally have the Scythe cooler. It’s very quiet and gets the job done, all for the great price of ~$50. It’s pretty underrated.

The other 2 coolers are higher end and really great from what I’ve heard, but they are a little more expensive.

maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VCAJ7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could actually fit one of these too.. for better cooling: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Premium-Cooler-Cooling-NH-L9x65/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479264518&sr=1-2&keywords=noctua+cooler

I just got this Noctua fan that comes with an AM4 mount. It is on the upper end of the price range, but pretty much the highest rated single fin tower fan you can get.

Nice mobo and cpu combo.

Everyone forgets the CPU cooler though.

This one for non-RGB builds, this one for RGB builds.

​

Here's my recommendation, if it's okay I just switch the mobo for a different brand and some other things. A lot of people have been trying to pair Ryzen 5 3rd gen with B450 motherboards, but they don't realize that won't work out of box a lot of times. lol!

PCPartPicker Part List

|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor|$197.75 @ OutletPC|
|CPU Cooler|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler|$34.89 @ OutletPC|
|Motherboard|MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard|$159.89 @ OutletPC|
|Memory|G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$77.99 @ Newegg|
|Storage|Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive|$139.99 @ Amazon|
|Video Card|MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card|$159.99 @ Newegg|
|Case|Corsair Carbide Series 275R ATX Mid Tower Case|$79.99 @ Walmart|
|Power Supply|Cooler Master MasterWatt 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply|$90.39 @ OutletPC|
|Operating System|Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit|$99.89 @ OutletPC|
|Wireless Network Adapter|Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter|$32.99 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Phanteks PH-F140SP_BBK 82.1 CFM 140 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Phanteks PH-F140SP_BBK 82.1 CFM 140 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts|||
|Total (before mail-in rebates)|$1188.74||
|Mail-in rebates|-$85.00||
|Total|$1103.74||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-17 21:55 EDT-0400|||

ITX builds generated by this system assume that you will be using a really small case in which no GPU longer than 20cm will fit. Hence the weirdness, I will do my best to fix it up. If you however remove that limitation, you get something far more reasonable and pretty much identical to your build:

|Part type|Name|URL|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|motherboard|Asus ROG STRIX Z390-H Gaming|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119158|184.99|
|processor|Intel Core i9 9900k|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B005404P9I/?tag=envybits-20|489.99|
|memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB 3200MHz CL16|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236391|359.99|
|video_card|MSI RTX 2080Ti Gaming X Trio|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07GJ3ZD69/?tag=envybits-20|1349.99|
|drive|Samsung 970 Evo 1.0TB M.2-2280 SSD|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07CGJNLBB/?tag=envybits-20|279.99|
|power_supply|Thermaltake Toughpower 750W 80+ Gold|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B00IUQRPQS/?tag=envybits-20|89.15|
|cooler|be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07BY6F8D9/?tag=envybits-20|67.09|
|total|-|-|2821.19|

I looked up "Contac silent 12" and saw a cooler with 3 heatpipes, but yes I meant the Contac silent 12.
Look: Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 150W INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support 120mm PWM CPU Cooler CL-P039-AL12BL-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9Q1K88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wscBDb07VH7VB

Leaning towards the Nh-U9L with a swapped for white PWM fan

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooler-2011-0-2011-3-NH-D9L/dp/B00QCEWTAW

its been shown to cool a 4790k at 4.5ghz to under 80c with a single fan and can keep up with its big brother the NH-D15 with 3 fans.

As amazing at the AIOs can look I am still simply too uneasy about putting liquid in my system if I didn't build it myself and I simply don't have the budget for a custom loop.

I'd recommend getting something like an H60. Much smaller and quieter heatsinks that work better

I would suggest a much better cooler

For air cooling my go to option is the cooler master hyper 212 black edition $37
Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kP-rDb444X54H

Or you could use a all in one liquid cooler
This 120mm aio is less than $70
CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2pfDb705AHRP

$70 CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIOhttps://www.newegg.com/product/N82E16835181140

If your case can handle a 2x 120mm aio
$75 Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D6pfDbJ8NS75B

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ2YDCY

Super simple install and good cooler, only $20 too.

Would this interest you?

I have this (intel parts only) that had the LED wires cut (can be repaired pretty easy if you are interested.

Yeah that's definitely the issue. The intel stock cooler was designed for really low TDP CPUs. If you need a cheap cooler that will be effective, there's the Deepcool Gammaxx 400. It's cheap but will do a much better job than the stock intel cooler. With that, you shouldn't be experiencing any more thermal throttling.

Thanks for the feedback.

I am planning on switching the front stock 120mm fan to the top rear slot and buying 2x 140mm fans for the front.

How see-through is the front of the Meshify C? I was debating buying the brown Noctua fan here since it seems to have the best reviews, but I don't want to see it through the front of the case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Is this fan the same as the chromax.black.swap one, but just brown instead of black?

Yep they are! Well you've got a solid full tower case so I'd go:
Top: 2x 200mm.
Front: 1x 200mm.
Bottom: 2x 140mm .
Rear: 1x 140mm.
Side: 1x 200mm (leave the included one in here).

Noctua fans are known to be the best out there but don't come in 200mm. so grab 3x 140mm of either:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

And grab 3x 200mm: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MegaFlow-200-Computer/dp/B008G3OLRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457741261&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=200mm+fan&psc=1

The wraith cooler is quite good, but if you still want a better cooler go for this https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9 , I personally don't prefer AIO

It’s been proven that air coolers are just as good if not better than water coolers and are a hell of a lot more safe and reliable. I’m biased, but I would suggest a nice air cooler like a dark rock pro.

IMO water cooling is pointless for 99% of people and people only do it because saying you've got a "water cooled" PC sounds sexy.

The water isn't doing anything to cool the system. All it does is move the heat from the source (the CPU/GPU) to a radiator. The radiator is what actually exchanges the heat with the outside environment. IMO, why bother dealing with pumps and hoses and all the added weight that comes from filling the PC with water, when you can just slap a monster air cooler right on top of the CPU.

Something like this is going to have just as much surface area to exchange heat as a 280mm radiator will, without needing a pump and tons of coolant in a reservoir. In a normal mid tower case the space about the CPU socket is just going to be dead air anyways, might as well put your heatsink/radiator there instead of having to mount it to a fan bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-34-Esports-Duo/dp/B07MC8CRVZ
I love this one, and compares well against other high end ones. Otherwise a mugen may be good if you worry about clearance issues and price

So you can use the fan that comes with the case or.... grab one of these whichever catches your eye.


Noctua NH-U12S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-F12 120mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9EYVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lstIDbNAN6J5X


Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sttIDb4SDN6PP

You’ll have to add that to your pc build on pc parts picker to verify it fits your cpu base (AM4) and fits your case also. They have low profile ones like above here also


Noctua NH-L9x65, 65mm Premium Low-Profile CPU Cooler (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5utIDb725S0DG

Sure.

My build is:

Graphics Card: Sapphire RX 580 Nitro+

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K

FAN: Noctua NH-D15S

Power: EVGA 750 BQ, 80+ Bronce 750W

SSD: Samsung 970 EVO M.2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 AORUS GAMING 7-OP

[$23.68 Amazon Prime], $22 with free shipping non-Prime

[Newegg...] let's don't talk about Newegg's prices.

I'm more interested in [these], which are $19 a piece, since I don't really care about the PWM feature.

My friend's Cougar has the fans set up similar to how u/PhattyR6 suggests (two 120mm intakes under the gpu but one rear exhaust vs top) along with a Noctua NH-U9S and his machine is nearly silent under heavy load. By using the 120mm fan in the rear for exhaust, it is almost like running two fans on the Noctua tower cooler as they are nearly directly in-line with each other (like a wind tunnel) so is very effective.

I've got the same cpu. Here's what I'm using. Great cooler. It's not super big and if you ever do want to OC a little you'd be good.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK

Thanks once again.

I just thought my case only supported 120, i thought i read that somewhere.. Clearly i was wrong.
I'm a little confused about why the person in the post has the top fan as an intake. Would it be ok to just leave it as exhaust?

I am going to go ahead and purchase 2 of these 140mm fans for front intake.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

The Noctua U9B SE2 is one of the quietest cpu coolers. I recommend only installing 1 of the 2 cpu fans provided. NT-H1 thermal paste is also included.

Video card with a 0dB mode when idle.

PSU: The EVGA P2 650W is enough and only costs $67. If you're serious about having a super silent pc, buy a fanless one.

The computer case is the only noisy component. Imho, you don't need a full tower and there are quieter models. If you want it anyway, replace the case fans with Noctuas.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $245.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler | $53.99
Motherboard | ASRock Z170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $98.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $72.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $208.98 @ Newegg
Case | be quiet! SILENT BASE 600 (Silver) ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.90 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply | $124.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $935.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $915.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-04 10:10 EST-0500 |

The Hyper T2 is a solid fan which I use in my computer. It's alot smaller than the full size one so it should fit in any size case!

Thanks :)
Should that one work ?
Noctua NH-U9S, Premium CPU Kühler mit NF-A9 92mm Lüfter (Braun) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jtA4DbF3NNVR3

Thanks for the info! The PC currently has a stock intel cooler, and I was looking at replacing it with a Thermaltake Contac Silent 12. It should hopefully decrease a lot of the noise.

I'll try to wait until Black Friday to see if any case fans go on sale.

DeepCool FAN HUB CPU Cooler Powers up to 4 Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YD7B0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U0drzb8SVC17A

Or would it be easier just to get splitters?

You're probably better off building around the NATEX combo. This used to be just under $500, but $608 currently for: http://www.natex.us/Intel-S2600CP-Motherboard-Package-Deal-p/intel-s2600cp2j-128gb.htm

• Intel S2600CP Motherboard w/ Dual E5-2670 SR0KX
  
• 128GB (16 x 8GB) 2Rx4 PC3L-10600R ECC DIMM
  
  Other stuff you'd need:
  
  4U case, $95: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OUTBK/
  
  Power supply, $103:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDETOW/
  
  2x CPU coolers, $58/ea:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TBHYYFK/
  
  That takes you to $922 without storage for a beefier setup (16 cores, 128GB ECC). For storage, the easiest route will multiple SSDs, with VMs split across each. Just make sure you have nightly backups if you go with no redundancy on storage itself.
  

Ya, you can. Just a side note, you need to get a corsair AM4 bracket to use it on Ryzen.Bracket is free and you just need to show the recipt. Or you can get some cooler that comes with bracket.

Like this one:https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooling/dp/B019955W7C/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492157571&sr=1-4&keywords=am4+cooler

Seems like a little overkill if he's not overclocking. I think /u/gyossaits would be fine with something like this

Frankly since you can't oc that chip unless you are running hot the intel stock should be ok. If you really need an aftermarket one don't go overboard with a big one just get a hyper 212 for 30 bucks or 40 with some rgb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N?tag=br-amazon08-20&th=1 you really don't need a noctua or something just save the money and go out to eat or buy some more ram.

Any beefy cooler has a chance to cover the RAM. See good coolers below that most likely won't cover the RAM:

Noctua NH-U12s

Hyper 212 Black Edition (Does come in RGB as well)

be quiet! Dark Rock 4

Look into the Corsair Hydro Series or NZXT Kraken coolers. I've used Corsair AIO systems and loved them but NZXT coolers are also decent options. Personally, I'd recommend the Corsair H75 or the Corsair H80i.

I really don't know much about CPU fans (my gaming days are over and I primarily work with business machines both at work and home) but these don't look too bad. Hopefully someone more in the know will chime in though?

Check this thread
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/6bu1ew/do_i_need_an_aftermarket_cooler_for_my_ryzen_5/

Without knowing if you are overclocking or how much room you have in your case, here are some possibilities:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Contac-Silent-Support-CL-P039-AL12BL/dp/B06X9Q1K88
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-ONE-Processor/dp/B076LQ2BJZ

Stock
https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Connector-Aluminum-Heatsink-3-93-Inch/dp/B079PZWX2L

If the price doesn't bother you, just get a pair of these. Noctua is in fact the best.

Thanks - I was looking at a new cooler but couldn't decide on one in time. Would something like the Dark Rock 4 be a noticeable upgrade or should I go with something bigger?

Here you go! They don’t get any better than these.

Noctua 140mm Premium Quiet Quality Fan with AAO Frame Technology (NF-A14 PWM)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AquUBbAYX9Y2Q

Got myself https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ for my 3700x, very quiet, temp dropped by like 15 degrees under load. Seems good so far. The hardest part was taking the wraith prism off and cleaning everything.

Noctua fans might do the job!

Here's one at $50, and here's one a bit pricer at $80. They should both fit your clearance height and I've heard nothing but good things about how quiet and effective they are

It kinda depends, there are $40 cpu coolers that will get the job done, and $90 coolers that will get the job done with flying colors.

If you want a more reasonably priced cooler that will still perform excellent, I'd recommend the Windale 6 for $47. If you want to go all out, the Dark Rock Pro 4 for $90. This review compares the two coolers in various tests; As you can see obviously the Dark Rock performs better, but both actually have very similar performances, while the Windale costs $40 less.

Building an HTPC...It is the 95w 7850k+ITX board...so bigger is better, though still needed to be low profile. Decided on the Scythe SCBSK-2100 BIG Shuriken 2. It has a huge footprint, but it will fit.

If you don't plan on overclocking your goal is basically silence. Something like a http://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-Silent-Cooling-NH-U9B-SE2/dp/B0065SFEE8?sa-no-redirect=1 as it is a solid CPU cooler in itself and is pretty quiet. The downside to the stock cooler or something like a 212 EVO is that they are quite loud which is probably something you want to avoid. If you don't care about sound just go with a 212 EVO.

Price History

• Thermaltake Contac Silent 12 150W INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support 120mm   ^PureLink
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  Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
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lol but a 2 or 3 fan gpu and this fan will get you far https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ/ref=asc_df_B07MC8CRVZ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=319216790773&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10473137773994851579&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033291&hvtargid=aud-643574997066:pla-720885078397&psc=1

I made a GPU bracket and installed it. Tidied up the cables a bit and installed the bracket.

Edit: I might consider painting the red on the GPU to Blue instead to match the Motherboard. Or possibly just black to be neutral. I also have a different CPU cooler I will be installing, that will have the fan face outward. Should look better than the giant brick that comes out at you and is so overbearing.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B00JQ2YDCY go with this and save yourself some headache. unless you want super rgb ect.

The Corsair H60 and Corsair H75 are good options. The CM Seidon 120V isn't bad either.