Reddit mentions: The best door hinges

First things first - fix your doors. Most doors in average homes are very susceptible to being kicked in. Consider replacing your current deadbolt strike plate with a strike box to help with that. Make sure you use 3 inch or longer screws to install it. They need to go in to the studs surrounding the door. While you are at it, replace all your hinge screws with the same type. If you really want to get serious, consider a door bar or something similar but make sure you can get it out of the way when you need to.

Some jurisdictions (mostly in hurricane country) mandate outside-facing hinges. If you are in that area and have outside-facing hinges, make sure you replace them with non-removable pin hinges so people can't pop the hinge pins out to take the door off.

Window film is a good idea, but it's a bear to install from what I've read, and it works both ways. You may inhibit your ability to break out a window if a fire or some other event requires you to leave via a window. Hurricane shutters may be a better option if you have the cash to pay for them, and they look a lot better than plywood covers.

Lighting is another important piece of the puzzle. Consider getting some motion-activated lights to cover all the dark areas around your property if you don't already have them. I usually keep a porch light on as well as another light by my garage; both of which illuminate all of the front yard.

Consider growing thorny plants underneath your windows on the ground floor, such as roses or the like. This will prevent people who aren't really determined from coming up to the windows and smashing them out.

If you have a driveway, you can consider a solar-powered driveway alert system which will send you a tone when someone passes by the sensor so you have some warning of people coming up the driveway.

Your local police department can probably help you better than I can. Most police departments will do a home security assessment for free if you call them up and ask for one. The officer will take a look at what's currently at your property and offer some recommendations.

If you have any questions please let me know.

EDIT: Added driveway information.

And, of course, a nice cooler will do a better job, but that was the super cheap option. I have this Igloo cooler. I took 60 pounds of frozen barbecue across 1600 miles over two days without adding ice over Christmas holidays. Still had ice in it 5 days later. Probably about the same 40-60 degree temperature range you're talking about.

Now, that won't be as true the more you open it or if you put warm stuff in it to start with (all my stuff was frozen).

Also, here are some protips. For super cold and long lasting ice, buy a block of dry ice. A lot of super markets carry it now. This is more for long term storage than just keeping your fruits, veg, and meats cold though. Also, if you buy the Igloo cooler, upgrade the hinges and the latch. The plastic ones it comes with break in about 6 months, almost guaranteed. And, the biggest difference between a $65 cooler and a $300 cooler are the hinges and latch. So, $25 gets you a much nicer cooler that will last forever.

Sounds awesome! and no problem, glad I could help out!

so what you're describing (if you were to stack the two D battery shapes lengthwise) is like a wii nunchuck? Here if so, you're in luck, because it looks like those have buttons, a joystick, AND a 3 axis accelerometer you could use with a teensy. it would be a fun programming learning exercise as well. most of it is basic "button press in, mouse action out" it seems.

Remember, with analog devices, you have a whole huge list of sensors and buttons you can use to get things moving, joysticks, accelerators, flex sensors, touch sensors (even flexible touch sensors!), and non-traditional switches like these hinge limit-switches which have a nice satisfying but sensitive click feel to em. (oh, and the teensy has out of the box "touch sense" pins)

Definitely send me a message if you need help setting up the teensy software, I struggled with it a bit before I got it installed correctly.

Contact the police.

I believe those are sign of attempted or successful forced entry with a pry bar. There is a small paint nick on what I assume is part of the door handle plate, where someone may have attempted to insert a pry bar, but the space between the door frame and lock plate was too narrow to insert the pry bar directly next to the door handle. The paint scratches bellow look like a person tried to knock a pry bar between the door and door frame, with the intent on sliding the pry bar up to the latch/lock point, but the space between the door and door frame was too narrow to slide the pry bar up to the door latch/lock. Multiple pry bars may have been attempted to be used at once. pry the door open a little, and put the next pry bar closer to the lock, and repeat the process until the pry bar is next to the door latch.

Then, with some less secure doors, the door's small 2 inch by 3 inch strike plate is secured with two 1" wood screws secured by 1 inch of 2x4, which is very easy to split and break with little effort. You seem to have an exterior metal security door that is pre-mounted to a full metal door frame that deters attempted burglary.

This is the mandatory part for other people reading this, whom have a wood framed entry door.

Reinforce your door frame with a larger strike plate!

Even if your door is solid wood, and there are no windows within 5 ft of the door, also replace the standard door hinges with security stud hinges which will prevent the door from being pushed off after removing the hing pin while the door is closed.

Use a raised lip threshold plate with a metal lip, not rubber or wood or plastic. This is to prevent a burglar from inserting a long wire hangar under the door gap, and catching the door latch.

Use this lock in a specific way. If you have a door handle on the inside like a handle lever attach the part with the ball on the end above the door handle touching near the end of the handle. This way the door handle cant be activated by catching a looped string dropped from above the door, and pulling the handle up. If the interior door handle is a round knob, attach the ball ended part of this touching the bottom of the door knob, and the swinging part of this above the knob so it drops onto the knob. This will make using a rubber tube to turn the knob from the outside much more difficult and time consuming.

Nothing is 100% secure. But time, effort, luck, and noise required to bypass a security lock system can deter a criminal. Also motion lighting. Lots of motion lighting.

What do you do for security? I'm looking at securitizing the door to the room where my safe is and want to see what others are doing. Might just do a thick door and a good quality deadbolt, along with some pins in the hinge side like these.

if you're trying to reinforce your front door, this is a good idea for the catch plate. For the hinges, a better item is this: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A It's a replacement screw you install in the hinges. when the hinges shut, it acts like a rod between the door and the door jam. if the door is locked and the hinge pins are on the side being attacked, popping the pins wont allow the door to be opened. If the attacker is trying to beat the door down, it's additional support. This should be used in conjunction with a better deadbolt, or multiple deadbolts. While this won't really stop someone truly determined to get in, who would look at windows, etc, it'll help beef up an entrance way.

I'm building a massive 10'X10' rear projection screen frame for my band. I want to be able to transport it, without bringing my screwdriver for disassemble, reassemble. What kind of equipment, jointing techniques do I need to research to have wood return to true from being folded with hinges and etc?

I was considering getting a couple of these, https://www.amazon.com/80-20-12085-Standard-Locking/dp/B00LGX1TK0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496692730&sr=8-5&keywords=locking+hinge would they be strong enough to hold, and keep true, this kind of frame? (stock image http://image.dhgate.com/albu_366682633_00/1.0x0.jpg )

Very nice! I love the all in one, grab it and go set up. For your dual swing hinges. Would these have worked?

https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Double-Acting-Hinges/dp/B0006L39AG

I'll do you one better. I'll give you the links to all the stuff I bought 😁 hope this helps.

Iron straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578HSSK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_B-kWDbCP8HRK2

Corners

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUFX9NA/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_jfrWDbWV34MF1

Hinges

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KDOXOP0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_CfrWDb5W4RZPR

Dye

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETT4ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_4hrWDb4NT7022

If they're Euro-style hings, he'll need a 35 mm Forstner Bit. A jig (like the one in this kit) helps too to ensure accurate positioning. Positioning needs to be within ~2 mm. I've done these successfully with just a cordless drill.

Oh boy. Sounds like you live with a couple of... bites tongue not so smart folks.

You could always look into installing spring hinges and an automatic lock for the front door - and pray they don't stash keys outside in spots that would be super obvious to B&Eers :/

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/door_spring_hinges.php

EDIT oh hey - Amazon has 'em for $18 apiece: http://www.amazon.com/Ace-Residential-Self-Closing-Hinge/dp/B000X1VV90

Replaced my 16’ garage door steel rollers and original hinges with nylon sealed bearing rollers and spring loaded Green Hinges. The door is now quiet and only rarely pushes inward during strong winds, so it’s warmer in the Winter and snow and rain doesn’t blow in any more.

Energy Saving Garage Door Hinge, Residential Set, 4 Panel Door

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAHC28G

Something like this is probably an easy solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Security-Hidden-Screws-Locking-Accessories/dp/B07T4WMZJY/

I would start with these hinge shims... it may not get it 100% perfect but give the illusion of being true.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JN0GABK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_lWOCybD8HDR3R

I would place spring hinges like these, or a lighter version, on the door and to your siding, pre-drilling small holes for the screws, and filling them with wood glue or caulk, before instillation, to waterproof the holes. Use screws that will not bleed or rust, galvanized or stainless. Or better yet, because it's on the thin side, use 2 little galvanized bolts for each hinge at the door, and you can probably get away with using only 2 screws per hinge on the house siding. Your door is light enough that 4 screws in total will do at the house. And the door is not too heavy for the siding, so don't worry about it.

The door will open towards you and the building, and the spring hinges will return it back to the brick wall, and depending on the fit, you may not need an eyebolt or anything to lock it in place.


If you want to, you can put a handle on the door, although one is not altogether necessary.

And bear in mind that your nice wood door, if left unpainted, or unstained-urethaned, will suffer badly in just a few years. It's a nice little door. Good luck.

I would even out the mortise with your jig and then use special door hinge shims to bring them flush with the frame. The wood putty or spackling is not strong enough and will crack. I've used these with success.

http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Shim-HS350BP-Quick-Align-Hinge/dp/B001DDAV3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1412866968&sr=1-1&keywords=EZ+shim

Shim, with an m, not shin.

Yep, they make shims for this very purpose. https://www.amazon.com/EZ-SHIM-HS350BP-Hinge-Shim-Pack/dp/B001DDAV3O

And also yes, door frames are almost always shimmed to some extent when they're first installed. That's the area later covered with casing/trim.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAkGt7xvDUg

Cheers.

They make Hinge Security Pins for situations where the hinges are on the outside. This makes removing the hinge pins less of a risk, but they also give you a less secure door attachment.

3.5"x3.5" seems to be a popular size. Here is an example of spring door hinges that may fit your need.

Makes sense. FYI, sometimes offset hinges can help maximize the usable area of a doorway: https://www.amazon.com/HealthSmart-Expandable-Door-Hinges-Brass/dp/B0009STNNS

I used this cable and bracket and they are awesome. My friend who actually has an XJ got the same bracket and we screwed it into the rear near the tail light I'll see if I can find a picture of his setup.

http://www.amazon.com/FireStik-K-8R18-Fire-Flex-cable-Fire-Ring/dp/B000X3C8L8

www.amazon.com/FireStik-SS-204A-Adjustable-stainless-vertical/dp/B000X3EQ3G/ref=pd_sim_e_25?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EZ302285D3NDQ0JH8G1

A set of these will increase hinge strength even more dramatically when paired with the items you linked: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A

Might have to slightly modify the door armor, but would be worth it.

In addition to what other folks are posting, you could try something like these door hinge security pins. They replace some of the screws in the hinges to give a locking point in the hinges as well.

Looks like this one . The adjustment is probably like this.

Here are the details copied from my post on the elektronauts forum too for more specifics

Took some time to find the best solution, but I can run the Digitone, Digitakt, and Keystep from one battery pack too with the setup.

I did have to modify latches so I could remove the lid on the Magma case though. Here is what I used to make it all work

MAGMA Carry-Lite L DJ Case… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077C53DQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Reliable Hardware Company… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ18XIM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

POWERADD Pilot Pro 32000mAh Power… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN0KBXU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

An occupational therapist and/or a vendor will be able to get the seating configuration right.

I have special hinges that let the door open further.

https://www.amazon.com/HealthSmart-Expandable-Door-Hinges-Brass/dp/B0009STNNS

You know these thumb screws on GoPros and action cams?

It's basically a hinge that can be tightened to stay in a position.

The gopro accessories seem to be the only ones that make use of that.

I wanna make something that needs a hinge that can be tightened.

Any ideas? Why can't I just get the GoPro type in hardware stores...I thought about getting a bracket that had one side rotated by 90 degrees. I could then just use a bolt and a nut to tighten it. I can't even find such a bracket on google to find out if they exist.

Edit: found a good example of what i need but it's 15 dollars for one hinge!

Try putting a piece of cardboard or one of these things between the top hinge and door frame.

add a spacer between hinge and door frame

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-SHIM-HS350BP-Hinge-Shim-Pack/dp/B001DDAV3O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_img_1

FireStik SS-204A Adjustable stainless steel vertical door jamb mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X3EQ3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_C6mRwb8QCVRYJ

Edit: For some reason, all three of these comments are downvoted... beats me.

http://www.amazon.com/FireStik-SS-204A-Adjustable-stainless-vertical/dp/B000X3EQ3G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421610566&sr=1-1&keywords=FireStik+SS-204A

Ive got this one for the antenna...and I made my own mount for my cobra 29 with some home depot stuff

Interneyet

https://www.amazon.com/Dynasty-Hardware-Mortise-Spring-Corners/dp/B018BBF2OS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521991759&sr=8-5&keywords=spring+door+hinge

Is that it? http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-1225BK-2-A-Take-Apart/dp/B00JJ18XIM/ref=sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-67&keywords=black+hinges

I use this. $500 guarantee if your door gets kicked in

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70

hinge pins here

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4WMZJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No, those are not gonna fit. Trouble with these switches is everyone has their own part number for them. I'm gonna eventually find a brand-name switch from ZF or Honeywell and use that.

[These are the switches we're using](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SO0IGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awGxybVHVJXZT

for external hinges look at hinge screws

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https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A