Reddit mentions: The best electrical ballasts

This is solid tabletop quality paintjobs, the sort of army I most enjoy playing against. If you do the rest of the army to this quality, you'll be fine. Your photography sucks, but it's good enough that I can see you've got solid brush control, have done washes and highlights, have picked out sufficient detail, just solid work all around.

The only issue I have is the lack of basing. For miniatures like these, I'd really recommend doing a simple basing scheme like a ballast mix painted in earth tones. It's very plain, generic but doesn't distract and gives a miniature a finished look, and is very cheap for doing large armies. Here's an example.

You'll need:

• Fine ballast
  
• Medium ballast
  
• Coarse ballast.
  
• PVA Glue (i.e Elmer's white glue)
  
  Here's how you do it:
  
  
  

1. Mix equal parts of all three ballasts in a small container so that you have a wide dispersion of different sized grains. About one teaspoon of each type should be plenty for a unit of 10 troops. I usually use a plastic blister from a miniature, roughly 1.5" wide x 2" long x .5" deep, but you can also cut a plastic cup or aluminum can down to 3/4" high and that also works great. You don't want to use a really big container or all the fine ballast will quickly settle to the bottom and you want to be able to easily stir it back up to a mixed consistency.
   
   
2. After you've fixed the model to the base but before you prime it, use a cheap brush to paint the surface of the base with white glue.
   
   
3. Dip the miniature into the container so it's submerged in the ballast mix up to it's ankles. You can just kind of sweep the mini through the mix then shake it a little, and you'll end up with a nice mix of ballast glued to the surface. Wash out the brush throughly when you're done, but not in your water pot. Wash it under a tap.
   
   
4. Let the glue dry, then make a mix of 1 part glue to 1 part water, so a very thinned glue and, using the same brush, go over all the ballast again. This will help seal it to the base.
   
   
5. Prime the mini and paint it as usual.
   
   
6. To paint the base is very simple. You really only need a dark brown and a light brown. Paint all of the ballast with the dark brown, then lightly drybrush it with the lighter brown. If you want to be a little fancier, pick up a set of the Reaper Soil Colors Triad, and paint the entire base Muddy Soil, then heavily drybrush with Basic Dirt, then lightly drybrush with Brown Sand.
   
   
7. Paint the sides of the base with any basic Black.
   
   You can add some Army Painter Tufts or the occasional piece of talus for larger bases to give them some variety.
   
   It will really improve the model, and is much less work than trying to go back and base the model after you've painted it.

Oh for sure, here's where I'm at (copy pasted from a comment I made a while back):

• Hortilux 600 watt HPS
  
• Galaxy Grow 400/600W Ballast, always on 600W, never turning on Turbo mode either
  
• Vivosun 6" Reflector Hood (can't find a link anywhere)
  
• 6" Can Fan Max-Fan
  
• 3 x 3 x 4.5 Secret Jardin Tent, can't find an accurate link since my model is discontinued
  
• Honeywell QuietSet Oscillating Fan HYF290B, for strengthening branches - running 24/7
  
• I'm using my 4" fan/ducting as an intake fan, directly in front of my AC unit's cold air flow
  
• Bluelab PENPH, I aim for 6.0 to 6.4, but I don't put too much effort into accuracy, sometimes not checking at all
  
• Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, no other additions to the soil
  
• General Hydroponics nutrient line, along with Floralicious Plus in the mix
  
• Eve Room 2, purchased because it's compatible with Homekit
  
  
  I've had quite a few set ups in the past, and this one is my favorite by far. It's made in such a way, that I can close all the doors and it would be unnoticed. If it's dead silent you can hear the 6" fan running, but with the AC running you can't notice it at all. It's great!
  
  ​
  
  So my set up, is also a closet, that is slightly bigger than my tent. So in order to manage heat better I may take my tent out and put mylar on the closet walls. I like having the tent so I can have clones/saplings in the closet with light, and have my flowering ones stay in complete darkness. I'll try to take a photo for you too!
  
  ​
  
  I also, just ordered my 480W Quantum Board light, which arrives on May 29th! I know I could do more to better manage heat and not need a new light, but this seems like an opportunity to upgrade so I'll take it.

So I am looking at something like this.

Hood:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GF0W04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_TPc1Cb63M6Q3R
Ballast:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1Z4TJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HBb1CbQMVSKP3
Bulb/s:
HPS bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JLE6HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_zOb1Cb3MV7271

And I cant seem to find a normal priced eyehortilux MH bulb that didnt seem like used or returned ones I dont know what I need here heh kind of winging it but I'd like to get a setup going soon cause my eyes are starting to bleed from all the reading ;)

I need a MH bulb for veg right. Can I go different brand MH and run the more expensive eyehort HPS during flower? Is that ballast and hood better than "fine" I want to optimize my 4x4 space as best as possible I want to use all that light so need an oversized hood how am I looking guys.

Is it a good idea to do maybe a yieldlabs 1000k kit instead of going the piece by piece route. So many choices I'm doing nothing but dreaming of bud heh who knew I started a college course in budgrow

It's a tad more expensive than the cheapest. Not neccesarily a bad thing, as the cheapest is often... the cheapest.

Your link is for 2835 LEDs. Have you researched LEDs sizes? Nothing wrong with 2835; just a matter of aesthetics and taste as to what's the "right" size, but there are other sizes available.

With crown molding, probably not possible, but it's best to put them in an aluminum channel.

Also, those cheap ass WIFI controllers and remotes work surprisingly well, but you may want to upgrade to the Hue platform using an FLS-pp. The main advantage for this immediate one-off install would be allowing tying more than one together for a single remote. Using the WiFi things, you're going to get boxed into trying to wire and power them as a single strip (which may work perfectly fine). Of course, you'd need a remote that works with Hue... the Hue Dimmer works well.

Get a 600w HID HPS like this https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-APL600-Hydroponic-600/dp/B0052AESTM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1519979682&sr=8-7&keywords=600w+ballast No reason to settle for LEDs unless you have no ventilation. iPower worked fine for me for years too. First ballasts I ever used. Ran a medical basement years ago when I was a noob with x12 600w iPowers. Ballasts worked fine. For your space a 600w HPS would be great! Cheap and super effective. Get a hortilux bulb if you want the best bulb.

Yes. You can use the dresden elektronik FLS-PP Ip: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_lc?tag=huelig0f-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=B00NMSQ4QQ&adid=068KHP2BJGQ0PK23866W&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fhuelights.com%2F

I tested this last night with my Hue Lights app, http://huelights.com, and bridge firmware 01030262 on the v2.0 HomeKit square bridge. This LED controller supports RGB or RGBW, so even strips with a white channel can be used. It can handle up to 6A with a suitable power supply. By comparison, the Lightstrip Plus has a 1A power supply and 1A LED controller.

The controller does a good job mapping color temperature modes to pure RGB strips. For example, Concentrate, Reading, etc., look pretty close to bulbs with color temperature support. You can also get a bundled package that includes a 3 meter strip and 2A power supply. With the bundled strip the controller could select colors, dim, and turn on/off with good response time.

Hello from /r/hotpeppers fellow gardeners/growers. I am currently growing hot peppers and I am quickly outgrowing my setup. (I start peppers for my dad too, and he’s getting into it, so, yea) You guys are the light experts and indoor gardening masters so I wanted to ask here ! I am on a bit of a budget, and am more used to/comfortable with older technology. I’ve never soldered anything, can hardly program my DVR, and know very little about LEDs. That stuff wasn’t even out yet when I bought my old equipment and worked at the garden store.

I am currently running a 48” T5 with 8 bulbs (8x54 watts per bulb) in a 4x4x7 tent. I have space in the unfinished basement to move my project do an “open grow”. Since I won’t be using the tent anymore, I’m not as concerned about heat buildup, and believe I have more options. By Monday, I will have transplanted everything, and will have approximately 40-50 2 gallon pots that will eventually go outside to raised beds in May. The basement room area is open for circulation, and has no walls/doors. The useable area is 8x8 or larger.

I need as much light coverage as possible right now, for the money. I COULD get another T-5 but for the amount of money I’d spend on one, I can get the 1000 Watt MH Light. Also, running 2 T-5s would be having 16 bulbs to look after and replace - creating a lot of waste and hassle in the process. I’d also need to re-mount the light and then mount a second. My goal would be to start everything like normal, transplant to cups and keep under the T-5 until the next transplant. Transplant again to larger pots, move under the 1000 watt, shut off the T-5 for next year to save bulb life. I’m thinking about getting a 1000 Watt light, with a Parabolic Reflector. https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Crunch-Parabolic-Vertical-Reflector/dp/B071W2LS5T/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550770353&sr=8-3&keywords=Parabolic+reflector

I read through the Wiki guide and would appreciate a recommendation on a decent Ballast. The last on I bought was an old 600 Watt Lumateck, and it still works, but it was $200 10 years ago. I don’t know how much has changed since then. The wiki lists a cheaper iPower ballast, but it seems to have mixed reviews and concerns about failure. I’ve noticed that a lot of people like the VivoSun LED lights here. How are their Ballasts ?https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Dimmable-Digital-Ballast-Program/dp/B016POA2KW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=Ballast+1000&qid=1550770714&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

The local hydro shop near me wasn’t very helpful :-( and only had newer, expensive tech. It’s a small store, and didn’t have much of a selection. Thanks in asvance guys/girls !

Not sure if you're using Philips Hues or not, but I picked up one of these and it works with the Philips hub. You can use the cheaper light strips that you mentioned with it.
I use Smartthings and it works pretty well with that. I know it's ~$50 but you're not tied to a 6' strip of lights. Hope that helps

Love it! Just last week I installed rgb leds in a similar channel as part of new baseboard on the stairs, and I gotta warn you--once you're done, you'll be looking all over the house, plotting what to light up next.

I think you're right to do them in channels--especially in a kitchen, that'll be easier to keep the fancy bits dust-/moisture-/grease-free. They're really easy to work with, just use a mitre box and a hacksaw.

rosencratetc's point about adding a motion sensor is a good one. Do you have any other smart bulbs in your environment? We're using Hue's new motion sensor, and I really dig it. With that, you can do scheduling, too.... You can control generic strips with Hue by adding this ballast .

(Briefly: cut the barrel jack off the end of the power cord, strip the wires back a wee, and connect to ballast. If you go this route I can add detail & photos.)

In total I have;

4x - Apollo 1000Watt Ballast

> (https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-APL1000-Hydroponic-1000/dp/B00BLTD8XU).

This is the amazon page, I can provide real photos. Each ballast was used for one vegetation period and then swapped out for non-static causing ballasts. This is only an issue because I was running controller software with Ethernet cables and they were blocking the signal.

4x - 6" hood or air tube w/o lamps These are also Apollo I'm assuming, they were purchased together in kit's you see popular on amazon.
> https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GLK1000LS24-Digital-Dimmable/dp/B005ECZVXK/ref=pd_sbs_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005ECZVXK&pd_rd_r=BYJZ0ZQA8ZAKWG80CHDV&pd_rd_w=xx7wb&pd_rd_wg=cRPdr&psc=1&refRID=BYJZ0ZQA8ZAKWG80CHDV

I am referencing this page just to show the Air-tubes. Duct size is 6"

1x - Hydrofarm - Autopilot 4 light

> https://hydrofarm.com/p/APCL4DX

This was never used, and comes with it's original packaging but the packaging isn't in great shape. This required more technical knowledge than I expected.

I'm also fairly certain I have a 6" CFM Pro series inline fan still in box and sealed, I can confirm that later.

I have a general idea of what to expect in terms of pricing, but was hoping someone could make some offers.
thanks for the response.

I highly suggest you research the new reflectors coming out that are dome shaped such as the Growlite OG reflector and the Luxor reflector. It'd be perfect for your space!

As for ballasts, they're getting smaller in size.

I have a Lumatek, and yes that boost is nice, but there's other great options out there!

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

I was wondering what the catch was. I was trying to find the product history.

OP, it's a Chinese special with razor thin margins (they have a different ballast in the photo). You can see on their webpage that the ballast is even different than the one shown on the Amazon link.

I'd go with this more efficient reflector if you do decide on this brand. The cool tube is a relatively inefficient reflector.

Looks like the seller has inconsistent pricing. edit: the seller buys for half this price

Same ballast, different label. Typical of Chinese imports.

That shipping price makes it too good to be true.

So I purchased another amplifier and I'm getting the same result. It seems like the amplifier is a major issue with these, so I thought about going at it another way. I was going to cut off the 1A power plug and put on a 3A power adapter that goes into the controller, but as far as I know no one has done this.

There are 2 possible issues: 1) The larger amps will fry the zigbee control board and that's that. 2) The board has some sort of limiter on it that doesn't allow the extra power to pass through to the light strips and the entire project is moot.

However, I have found a 3rd option, which is a little expensive but bypasses the Philips LightStrips completely.

I purchased one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/
This is, essentially, a complete replacement for the Hue controller attached to the light strips. It supports up to 10 meters of LED strip (with proper power adapter) and integrates with the Hue system so it shows up in the app just like any other bulb! The best part is you don't need to purchase a Hue LightStrip at all since it doesn't use any of those parts.

LOL awesome. Did you know that you can diy your own light strips? I got a little carried away when i discovered that ;)

It largely depends on how much length you need. If you only need a few feet, the regular light strips from Phillips are your best bet. If you're doing long runs, it can be a lot cheaper to go 3rd party.

I ran about 30 feet for my apartment using 3rd party, and spent a little over $100. I compared it to the light strips and it would have been around $450 using just light strips. So far the integration has been super easy.

Here's what I bought:

1x FLS-PP for $55 (this is what you use to control the lights via the Hue app)

1x 12v power supply for $12

1x set of pigtails (only needed one of them, so a local AV or tech store might sell individual ones) for $5

2x 16ft SUPERNIGHT RWBWW LED Strips for $17/ea

They aren't as bright and as uniform as the Hue Lightstrips, but you get what you pay for. The Hue Lighstrips are $90 for 6.5feet, and I would have needed 5 boxes total, so $450 just for the strips.

To be honest at this point it sounds like you’d be better off buying something other than Hue.

You could buy generic 5050 RGBW strips which you could cut and link as you wished from eBay for a fraction of the price of Hue strips.

Add a power supply and a zigbee controller (I have this one: Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4v4Ab9FKRZGS) and you’re sorted.

Edit: The new Ikea led driver could be an option as well, don’t know much about it though.

It really depends how much effort you want to put in and if you are up for a bit of programming on a raspberry pi...

Short answer is only official hue bulbs are compatible with HomeKit.

However you can run a piece of software called homebridge on a raspberry pi that allows you to link unofficial but hue compatible bulbs to HomeKit. I have such a set up and it works perfectly!

Then you have more options with lights! I have one of these Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cKwrzbZRGY7BG

Which can drive a lot of led strips...

Here's what I used to do my kitchen. Works with Hue can be cut to length and comes out nice and clean. Did do some soldering but you can probably get away not having to. I used 1 ballast and ran a wire thru the attic instead of using 2 ballasts but that was just to save on cost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6CB2D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU76VMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JKPLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6ZJVP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XJS5B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4HI746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ML3Q2ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OP Delivers and sorry for the delay. Thanks to /u/maxwellsearcy for reminding me!

• Dresden electronic ballast (Zigbee)
  
• 50/50 4 Conductor Light Strip Connectors
  
• Phillips Hue Dimmer Switch
  
• Supernight 50/50 24V lights
  
  Now, cut the plugs off one side of the lights and off the power supply. Match the wires up on the Dresden ballast with RGB+ on the LEDs. Carefully strip away the outer shielding on the power supply cord and then strip the tiny wires on the inside of the power supply wire. Put those into the power screw points on the Dresden. Plug it in and test. It should come on a solid color.
  
  Now that you have it working, go into your Hue app and scan for new lights. You will see 2 lights pop up for every Dresden ballast you configure. Once it's done scanning, click them in the app and make sure they flash. One of them will NOT flash and you can safely delete that one.
  
  That's it!

Thanks for your insight! The 630 w cmh can be used in a traditional digital ballast? like this one? Ballast-1000w and traditional double ended hood?

I've been using GE ultrastart ballasts. A four tube ballast (which will also work for three tubes, you just cap one set of wires) runs somewhere around $20 or $30, depending on where you get it. I'm pretty sure this is the model I've installed several of, and less than what I've paid for it.

The one thing about programmed start ballasts is that they require non-shunted lampholders ("tombstones"). Depending on what's in your fixtures, you may have to replace them (which costs about a buck each) if you have instant start ballasts with shunted lampholders. You could use an instant start ballast, which work well, and are a bit cheaper. They have much shorter lamp life if you turn the lights on and off a lot though.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

Magnum Hood

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

What you've got there is an F14T12CW.

The F14 refers to 14 watts, T12 to the diameter of the bulb, and CW to the color temperature which is nicknamed "cool white". An equivalent F14T12 that is "soft white" will be much warmer, and "warm white" will be warmer still.

Old tech at this point, so the big box stores may have long-ago clearanced that size. But the local hardware store should have it still, or you can order online.

Buy a pack of starters at the same time -- I've never regretted replacing the starter at the same time as the lamp with old T12 stuff.

Those lamps are a "period feature" now, they were new at a time when having florescent lights was high-tech and something to show off.

Well the generation 1 light strip is cheaper http://amzn.to/2hRNdS3 and for what you want to do may be a better option.

I went the opposite where I cut off the power supply and the light strip and soldered on a larger power supply 5amp and added a 5050 light strip at 4m long seemed to work OK.

I I wanted was the ZigBee controllers.
Here is a fls after market controller http://amzn.to/2j5bQXw that will also work with the Philip hues

Late to the party here... I actually have a similar setup running 2 of the exact same machines. Look for this: NEMA 6-20 outlet and 2 of these NEMA 6-15 to C13 cords Wire this with 2 hots and a ground - don't use the neutral. This will run OK on a 20A breaker.

You need the LED controller that it already has - alternatively you could get an LED controller separately and get some cheaper LED strips (still need a power transformer such as the one you listed).

If there's already a socket for the light, you might be able to plug directly into that with an adapter (not sure those exist in the UK, but you could check your DIY store). That would be the easiest since the Hue strip has a wall-wart style plug with a backward connector.

Otherwise, you need a 24v transformer which you can cut the wire coming from the hue strip box and hook that up along with the wires from the switch (be sure to turn off the breaker first!).

This ballast makes cheap LED strips integrate into your Hue setup. It works perfectly with mine. Check the Amazon comments for details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can build your own very cheaply, total cost is basically $55 for a third party controller, plus ~4$/m for chinese LED strip.

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I have two dresden controllers (Running ~200W of lighting) and two lighstrip+ connected to my system and everything works fine.

The only problem is that you will never color match a third party product. The bulbs and strips will always display exactly the same color (Assuming you are within the gamut of the products) but third party can be way off.

I just ordered the Dresden Electronics FSL-PP LP of amazon.co.uk along with the suggested power adaptor as well as suggested RGBW led strips.


Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453453271&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=41d%2Bw6ouySL&ref=plSrch

JnDee™ 12V 6A 6 amp 72W DC POWER Supply ADAPTER Transformer: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0086DE6FI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453453271&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51oKWAafXcL&ref=plSrch

Mixed-Gadgets RGBW LED Light Strip 16.4ft 5M Flexible Non-waterproof RGB+White 300leds: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PXOEOQ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453453271&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51dKMQKvKZL&ref=plSrch

I ordered a total of 10 meters of led strip, and I am anxious to see if I can drive the entire 10 meters of that one power supply. Also if it will drop in intensity at the end as well as the quality of the white light.

I can update you with my experiences when it arrives if anybody are interested?

What's the difference between T8 and T12? Looks like the currently working one is T12.

This one should work, right? I'm not looking for anything fancy. These were cheap shitty lights that I'm only planning to use for my garage at home. My lighting sucks and I do a lot of DIY work in the garage.

EDIT: LMAO! I'm at -1! Who the fuck downvotes comments asking for help and clarification in a sub dedicated to asking for help and clarification?!?! Reddit kills me sometimes.

Hue is nice. It has plenty of integrations, such as OpenHAB. But as you say there is the upfront cost since you need the Hue hub (which is technically Zigbee)

The hue strips are also quite expensive, but there is a 3rd party zigbee LED strip controller that works with the Hue system. I have this controller for my desk lighting. See: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I'm trying to make two led light strips "smart" by having them work with my Philips hue bridge, so I've decided to get an FLS-PP controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mLxozbAA4DEXS), power supply, and a cheaper roll of RGBW LED's. I eventually want to connect everything to HomeKit. Since I'm routing two LED strips with different colors to the controller, I heard I need to use an amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN7AFLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aPxozbHAC56Y0). At this point I feel like I don't know how to go about connecting everything together. I know that one of the light strips is going to be about 5 feet long, and the other long enough to provide coverage alongside the edges of a 60" TV. I don't know whether each light strip/color will be able to be controlled individually or not, how many power supplies are needed, and if there's an easier/better way to go about this. If someone could give me some advice, I would really appreciate it!

TL;DR want to install two hue compatible led's on a budget, don't know best way to go about it.

The tubes are voltage independent; if they work on 110V they do so on 230v as well. some fluorescent-configurations are only possible on 230V though.

You could replace the ballast with one (or two) rated for 230V. you can also wire them in series and use just one larger ballast. With the old inductive ballasts you could just wire 2 lamps to a single ballast like this so you use a 30W ballast for 2 15W lamps. This only works on 230V though. They won't start on 110V.

when I have lamps like this though i always replace the ballast with a new electronic one. (like this here) they drive the lamps at higher frequencies so you don't get the 50/60Hz flicker.

In your case I would get an electronic ballast capable of driving 2 lamps. they usually have a wide input range (100-277V) so you can still use it on 110V later. plus, no flicker! you will probably have to re-wire the thing and remove the old starters...

https://smile.amazon.com/iPower-GLBLST1000D-convertible-programming-Overheating/dp/B008NYJ6D2

https://smile.amazon.com/HydroplanetTM-Hydroponic-Digital-Dimmable-Electronic/dp/B019J42406

Just a note that I have no experience with ballasts or which brands are best because I use LED lighting, so I can't attest to that ballast's quality - but you're looking for something like this. I would recommend you do some research to look for product reviews on forums/reddit before you jump right into buying anything.

I had ok luck with this.

It's not CHEAP, but, cheap-er: This ballast plays well with the Hue hub (it speaks zigbee) and I've got it attached to two $12/ea rolls of LED strip from China:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I cannot find the latest Bridgelux on amazon; I've got credit on amazon only unfortunately, this is what limits my selection.

Your "You're really cutting it too close on that driver; there is a chance that the chip won't even illuminate." statement has me curious. The driver I picked is pushing out 36v at 2.3 A; do I need one that would push out 36v at 3.6 A?

I just installed the FLS-PP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ Works great and I haven't had the disconnection issue that some people seem to have in the reviews. I have about 20' of RGBW on the underside of my platform bed, I could probably double that if I needed to. https://imgur.com/gallery/qI4sL

I've been running one of these through a Hue hub for four years now. My light strip is just RGB, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I have seen these mentioned from time to time. I am curious to see what others say, since I am interested in something similar.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I used a regular led strip (2 actually, 32 feet) with this ballast, works with hue beautifully.

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1462405659&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=Ip+ballast&psc=1

I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.

Hope this helps!

LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have 4 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-APL600-Hydroponic-600/dp/B0052AESTM

and havn't had any problems after 3 years, so I suppose i would recommend them.

You want the Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

And these LED strips look good, though I haven't tried them, and they are a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Waterproof/dp/B01N2PC9KK

Though really any RGB or RGBW led strip should work with that ballast.

That is just the reflector for the light.

You will still need to buy a light and a ballast. And that, my friend is going to depend on what type of environment you have. If you've got a TON of room (like a spare bedroom) then I would suggest a Hortilux 1000W SuperHPS and a 1000W HPS Ballast

Your bulb wattage and type (HPS or MH) must match the ballast.

The ones that I took out have two pins, the ones I replaced them with do as well. These are the ones I picked up to replace them.

I was thinking of swapping it out with a T8 and getting new T8 lamps as well, just write off the $7 on the replacements. I did find a T12 ballast online though that I figured would be just as simple a fix and would use the new lamps I just picked up.

> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

They sell it in the USA too :)
http://amzn.to/28QJWuk

The Hue light strip itself seems like a gigantic waste of money to me. You can get an FLS-PP controller and 16.4' of light strip that's better than Hue (more LEDs per foot) for about the same price as one Hue light strip which only comes with 6' of light. I got a couple FLS-PP controllers on sale for $55.

Not completely what you are asking for
But a good alternative.

I have this exact setup for my herb garden in my back room.

Two T5s from this pack:

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-6500K-Fluorescent-Tubes-White/dp/B01731MOGQ

Running off this ballast:
https://www.amazon.com/ROBERTSON-Fluorescent-eBallast-RSW234T12120-RSW240T12120/dp/B00H9HJSFU

Just wire according to the instructions on the ballast.

OR! Use grow light leds:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-100W-Full-Spectrum-LED-COB-Chip-Grow-Light-Plant-Growing-Lamp-Bulb-220-110V-/253986031197?nav=SEARCH

If you can solder, just hook up straight to a wall outlet, use cpu thermal paste and hook up to a large piece of metal or an old cpu cooler. I grow 4 lime trees off this setup.


You should be all set! Hmu if you have any questions!

Livelong is talking about CFL bulb, not HPS. For the HPS you would need additional ballast.. For each..

Have a look at the FLS-PP lp by Dresden Elektronik. It is a zigbee led strip controller that will work with Philips Hue and should work with Smart Things Hub. It will work with the 505SMD led strips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

There is a zigbee controller that works with the hue hub. I have it and it works great, though it is difficult to connect the wires to it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1503796346&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Zigbee+controller

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Maybe somehow tap into the tree lights

You can find ZigBee controllers that you can sync with the Philips Hue bridge like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

Been using this with 10m of led strip, it shows up in the hue app so you can make scenes with other lights and can control it from Google or Alexa.

If you are starting from Scratch I would look at Osram lightify garden strips. https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Osram-Gardenspots-Adjustable/dp/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496056371&sr=1-5&keywords=osram+lightify
They are meant for outside AND you can remove the spikes and screw them directly onto the deck ( they are designed this way)
Another solution is to get outdoor rated lightstrips and connect them with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a ballast that will connect to HUE ecosystem or actually any zigby controller. I use one of these for lightstrips in my kitchen

FLS-PP LED Controller, Zigbee, Hue Compatible

Supernight RGBWW LED Strips

Power Supply, 60 watt 12v

They have a larger power supply available as well. You'll have to do the math on how many strips you want to run.

I have this exact setup with two strips (and no issues whatsoever)... Hue sees it just fine.

I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.

• FLS-PP LED Light Controller
  
• RGB LED Strip
  
• Power Adapter
  
  or
  
  
• FLS-PP, Power Adapter, and LED Strip

This is the only controller that will work with Hue, and as you said, not HomeKit.

I’ve used it before and it’s not worth your time. There are no generic LED Controllers that are Homekit compatible without the use of HomeBridge.

Buy Hue. It’s worth the price.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-pkODbGJC3RBB

5m RGBW RGBWW 5050 Led Strip Light DC 12V 4 in 1 Led Chip Waterproof Non Waterproof 60led/m indoor outdoor home decoration
http://s.aliexpress.com/BVb2yYfQ

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uTgEyb283918T

Either go for the ip20 or ip69

I plan on doing this or something similar to this in the future to do permanent Christmas lights on my house. I don't have all of the stuff picked out yet but I do plan on using this ballast to power the LED strips. The ballast is Hue compatible. I don't think it is waterproof but you could maybe stick it in a waterproof box. Ballast: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

So am I correct in assuming that instead of the 6ft Phillips Hue strip - I can get these two things and have the equivalent of a 30ft strip that still works with the Hue Bridge?

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-600leds-Changing/dp/B00KCHRKD6

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Not by itself. Needs to be connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

Link: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I've not tried this myself but I think you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

I see you mentioning Hue strips and how much they cost. Although I haven't gotten to try it for myself yet, I hear you can use generic RGB lightstrips along with an FLS-PP to get cheaper lightstrips that are still compatible with the Hue bridge.

I use one of these, mated to a cheap Sylvania RGB led strip:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Is that the kind of thing you're looking for?

3 rows of 7 lights

Sun System Evolution 8" Air-Cooled Reflectors

Solis Tek Digital Ballast V2.0

Veg bulb

Flower bulb

​

Edit: Had to double check the specs

I basically need a weatherproof version of this

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496000415&sr=8-1&keywords=zigbee+led+controller

Hey what do you think about this ballast for the Magnum Hood?

OR should I just go with this combo?

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1441210947&sr=8-1&keywords=FLS+ballast&pebp=1441211138516&perid=1H3E632X1Y8FTWMWS38Z

You can control basically any lights with this

boy, have i got something to show you

Using huegasm (chrome extension), meters of generic LED strips and 2 hue bulbs, you can do the above. You do need this

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pkivyb18HR99K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SIS02X6?psc=1

I use this for my closet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/

full color and hue app recognizes it because it's zigbee. not that I need colors in my closet, but the plain white controller wasn't much cheaper, so I figured why not.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/#Ask

They do exist but I'm not sure how popular a Hue blacklight would be.

You could create your own today if you really wanted. A simple UV light strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/) along with the DE FLS-PP controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/) should do the trick. You'd connect the UV strip to the white channel of the controller (ignoring RGB) and Hue would see your backlight as a white bulb.

I'm not sure what you mean by spliceable lights but maybe this product would fill that gap? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ

No problem.

I was also looking at an alternative solution from another reddit post which would use the following items:

• Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/)
  
• LE 16.4ft 300 SMD 5050 LEDs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6Q4I/)
  
• LE Power Adapter 12V 5A (https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Lights-Listed/dp/B00K71VMCW/)
  
• Strip Light Connector (https://www.amazon.com/EvZ-Single-Colour-Connector-Conductor/dp/B01COSL7QG/)
  
• 10m RGB Extension Cable Line (https://www.amazon.com/EvZ-Color-Extension-Cable-Strip/dp/B00DPQMKBS/)
  
  If this makes sense then it would look something like this?
  
  LED strip --> strip connector --> 10m extension cable (through ceiling) --> strip connector --> LED strip for cabinets on other side of wall
  
  Found a very informative video of the ballast + LED strips + hue bridge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNfa9X5Sq1Q
  
  That's already $93 + tax so if it makes more sense to just get a refurb hue strip kits and synchronize them to the same room (Kitchen) then I guess I will go with another set of hue strip kits.

I haven't bought it yet nor do I know if the latest firmware had affected it. This is what was recommended to me when I was looking for the same thing: http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448298638&sr=8-1&keywords=FLS-PP

Sadly, not a lot cheaper

I have about 30 ft worth of LED strips on my porch with my hue system. I am using the FLS-PP Zigbee controller with IP67 rated LED strips. It is in a location that wont have any direct contact with water (on porch ceiling). I put some electrical tape around the connections to help water proof it a little more though.
So far 1.5 months and no issues yet.

As for the hue branded strips, I am not sure I would put those outside because.
1 - they are expensive. 30ft of strips and the FLS-PP controller cost about the same price as the starter Lightstrip plus kit. $90 roughly. So if it does die I am not out the $400-$500?? for a comparable Hue light strip plus with enough extensions
2 - the connections are not very waterproof on the hue brand. If they will see any contact with water they will corrode I think. I will just keep those on the back of my TVs for now.

Yes you can but you need to get an FLS-PP ballast so they can communicate with HUE. I am not sure how yours are hooked up but the 4 individual strips need to be connected to each other. You would get rid of your existing controller and power supply. The new FLS-PP ballast needs 12V run to it. You can use your current power supply if it is 12v but you would need to cut the end off it as it's directly wired to the new ballast. The only thing you would need to do is then hook the 12V-R-G-B from the RGB strip to the ballast. Should be about a 5-10 minute job. Once you hook the ballast up search for new devices in your HUE app and it will show up as 2 devices a color lamp and a white one. If you are using RGB strips then you can ignore the white lamp. If you are using RGBW stripes then you can use both.

Going this route would fully integrate you LED's with HUE. Having said that you would not be using the remote to control the loght anymore. You would be using the HUE App or Alexa if you want to use voice commands.


You can get one here : https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485270154&sr=8-1&keywords=fls-pp

Sorry for the delayed response, I've been on vacation.

What I ended up doing was purchasing one of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ and planned on only using it with smartthing hub, but found the flaky connection a problem and attempted to add it to a phillips hue hub...and it worked!!

Note to reset the ballast you unplug and re-plug the device 5 times.

Overall installation is relatively straight forward.

1. Just cut and strip wires closest to the connector to the IR side of the led strip (usually closest to the connector between the strip and IR controller).
   
2. Then plug corresponding colors into the ballast.
   
3. Strip connector for the IR power and plug in respectively
   
4. Plug in, open hue app, find new light, if no light found reset ballast
   
   Second question: No you do not need a hue bulb, but you do need a hue hub