(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hammers

You are right about it being mild steel, but it's not "just" mild steel, which is what I was sloppily saying. Sorry for the lack of clarity and I appreciate your point. This steel has roughly twice the yield strength of mild steel (50ksi vs 25ksi) and it is noticeably more resistant to the hammer.

Lots of my initial impressions of it were formed while the air temps were pretty cold, so my heats didn't last long, and it isn't as bad now, with temps in the 60-80F range, as it was in the 30-40F range. Not a surprise, really, but very interesting to experience those differences through hitting it. It's one thing to read something in a book and another to feel it.

My lightweight anvil definitely makes a difference. I was getting frustrated with this specific metal and started staging up to heavier hammers and was working for a while before I realized it felt like the anvil was bowing under my heavy hits. I don't think it was, it just felt like that, because I'd exceeded the hammer/anvil weight ratio and the efficiency of the energy return was dropping off as I hit it harder, which was functionally making it move less. I dropped hammer weights and the movement per hit went up.

The 900g Swedish pattern hammer is what I've been doing most of my smithing with, but I love my new little rounding hammer. It does make a noticeable difference in fullering and it's actually a touch lighter than the 900g (1.984 lb vs 1.75 lb) but I like the mass being close to the handle. [Here's](Anvil Brand 1-3/4 Lb. Rounding Hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ECOOGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M2UezbR2P2G19) the rounding hammer I got. I might get a heavier rounding hammer once I try the new anvil. So excited!

I too was in your position just a few years back. Here is a list of my recommendations for the entry-level versions of the items you listed above as well as some other things I like to have handy.

• Hammer, $15; This hammer is cheap, it has a peen (for drawing out metal) and is... well... a hammer.
  
• Anvil, $60; This anvil is definitely a beginner anvil but it is what I used for two years until I upgraded. You can pick it up in most all Harbor Freight stores as I assume there is one in every state.
  
• Tongs, $15; This set of pliers will help with quite a few things the main being to hold the metal once heated. I know that these are not what one thinks about when they think "blacksmithing tongs" but I have used similar ones for the entire time I have forged due to their versatility.
  
• Apron, $25; I personally have not used this exact apron before but it is cheap and though not beautiful, it is functional and trust me, spending $25 now on this may very well save you 100 times that in hospital bills.
  
• Gloves, $20; These are the gloves I use at my forge and I can say that there is little to no loss of dexterity and they provide ample heat resistance.
  
• Forge; This is the one piece that deters people the most as it is the most expensive piece. The type of forge you get depends on your budget and your ability/aptitude for DIY work. Here are my recommendations for three different budget levels.
  

• High-End Budget; 2 Burner Blacksmith Forge $489.95
  
• Mid-Level Budget; 1 Burner Blacksmith Forge $350
  
• Entry-Level Budget; This Video will take you through the process of making a Coffee Can Forge. They are suitable for the entry level smith and can, if done right, be made for less than $150.
  
  Now for my personal suggestions;
  
  

• Grinder, $55; This Handy-Dandy little grinder is what I use for most all of my knife smithing. It is pretty cheap and a great entry-level piece of equipment.
  
• Metal, $5-$20; When you are starting off, I highly advise to start with the tool steel available at Home Depot and/or Harbor Freight because they are very cheap and you can stand to mess up without wasting expensive metal.
  
• This Book is what I began learning with and it comes packed with a number of starter projects to help you get started on learning basic skills as well as acting as a reference later on down the line.
  
  I hope this list helps and I wish you well on your journey in beginning Bladesmithing!
  
  
• O

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

As others have said, credit cards work great, so do razor blades to hold the detent pins down (cheaper than the $8 on this pin which im sure works great - but this pin could 'save' you money if you shoot the detent and spring off and cant find them)

Warning wall of text from a comment I made to someone else in your position, ill have changes at the bottom since I made this comment 3 or 4 months ago:

As others have said its really easy even if you have no experience, there are plenty of youtube videos for resources. An AR is by far the easiest firearm to work on. I started off in your position a few years ago hesitant to mod and now I barrel my own ARs, its addictive and very easy with the hardest part spending money on tools but deals can be had. Lots of great resources out there as well dont let it intimidate you - heres a wall of text of some tools you might want to consider if you're looking to assemble stripped lowers or do minor gun work.


I purchased this set of punches for less than $7 a few years ago looking to do the same as you but being on a college budget. You'll definitely want brass but steel/'chrome' punches have their place (peening roll pins). This is far from the "perfect" set and is chinesium but 4 AR builds, many other firearm disassembles (stripping 3+ glocks, 4+ M&P Pros as well as a couple Rugers to bare frame then back again) and 4+ years later they are still holding up (punches will bend, you can bend them back, especially the small ones, if they get deformed from striking you can file/sand them flat again) but if you have extra cash/are willing to spend more there are many options out there that are oriented towards gunsmithing specifically, I didnt have the money at the time for them and will wait until these give out or I come across something they wont work with before I purchase something else.

You may also want to look into a roll pin starting punch if you are building ARs (or anything that uses roll pins)

But I find Hemostat Forceps to work excellently for roll pins ('pinch' the pin in them, get it started, remove forceps and use punch) (you will not need this for installing a trigger, only roll pins such as a bolt catch)

Also if you're striking punches dont use a regular hammer (chips into your eyes arent good) I use a Nylon Hammer like this

There are other things for barreling such as torque wrenches and vices etc. but the above will allow you to assemble a stripped AR lower and have many other applications for gun work. Good luck any questions dont hesitate to ask.


Changes - I ended up buying the roll pin installer for the trigger guard (totally not necessary but saves time) and I killed all those punches after years of faithful service while in the current process of building an AK. But I highly recommend the hemostat forceps for the roll pin on the bolt catch. Assembling an AR might seem intimidating but you can totally do it, any questions totally ask

I work with leather as a hobby and I'd be happy to tell you about the tools I use. Others may have different opinions of course.

Where should I buy my leather?
I get all my leather from Tandy Leather Factory. Link The prices are great, and they have a huge selection of quality, thickness, and sizes. Of course there may not be one near you.

If you have to buy from a craft store then you're going to be paying a lot, but that may be your only option. You should lookup "Saddle Supply" for your area too. The tools and materials are all the same.

What tools are a must-have?

• Rotary Leather Punch : This punches different size holes for different rivets, eyelets, or laces. The only downside to this rotary type, as opposed to this type is that you have to be within 2 inches of the edge of leather. But I find that is rarely a problem for me.
  
• Utility Knife AKA Box Cutter : DO NOT USE SCISSORS TO CUT LEATHER. If you ignore everything else, this is the one thing you should remember. Using scissors will bend the edge of leather all to hell. A new blade on a utility knife like this will cut through leather like butter. I use two, a regular size one and a small compact one for tight turns.
  
• 4 Prong Chisel : You'll use this to punch holes along the edge of the leather to sew it together. I use the 4 prong, but they also come in 1, 6, and 8.
  
• Rubber/Wood Mallet : For hitting the chisel. You'll probably say, I have a hammer I'll just use that. Don't, it'll mushroom your chisel and be loud, and destroy whatever you have under the leather you're punching through. Get a mallet form Walmart.
  
• Stitching Needles : For stitching leather together of course.
  
• Wax Thread : For stitching leather together. If you opt to use the hole punch and leather cording to bind your leather together it's going to look like a Boy Scout made it at camp. Trust me, take the time to stitch your stuff nicely.
  
• Rivets : These come in different colors, materials, types, and sizes.
  
• Rivet Setter : for striking rivets of course.
  
  Leather
  
• I use a 9oz leather for my goggles. It's thick and stiff (that's what she said) and is almost like balsa wood in hardness.
  
• For cuffs I'll recommend an 8oz leather. It's thick enough to be stiff, but will bend to a nice curve. Here are the cuffs I make. For the Straps I use about a 4-5oz leather. It's thin enough to bend easy, but thick enough to be strong. Of course, if you end up making something like bracers that need some extra strength you can go to a 6-7oz leather instead.
  
  Here is a project I'm currently working on that uses a mix of all the tools above. http://imgur.com/xEvP3
  
  Also, there are many many other tools you can add, but I think these are the basic must haves.

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

Personal preference here, but between clipless and platform, I would go platform. But I think clipless might be the more popular option.

But if I could, I'd actually split the pedal difference. On my bike, I've always used mallet pedals, so I can either clipless or ordinary shoes. For the majority of my biking time, I've just used them as ordinary platforms, but about a quarter of the time as clipless. I enjoy the feel of platforms more, even though I know they're not as mechanically efficient as clipless would be. But I enjoy being able to use my shoes as either clipless or standard shoes to go about my day.

But I commute daily with more poundage of gear than your tour, so my preferences might not be best for you. Whatever you decide, I hope you have a safe and happy trip!

I would stay away from getting tools like others mentioned. The cost will add up quickly, even if you get dirt cheap tools. There’s also no guarantee that he’ll even need the tools you get him. You can’t go wrong with a utility knife and a cheap framing hammer, though. Milwaukee knives and an inexpensive California style framing hammer are guaranteed to see plenty of use. Estwing also makes steel handled hammers which will pretty much never need a new handle, but those are pretty rough on the elbows and wrists compared to wood or fiberglass handles. Once he has experience, he’ll know what he needs for whatever job he’s doing.

Everything you mentioned sounds great. What I personally would appreciate most (outside of what you already mentioned) aren’t exactly cheap and may not be every carpenter’s cup of tea depending on what their job calls for. One thing that he’s sure to appreciate but may not be all that excited about right off the bat is wool socks or, if you’re willing to spend a lot of extra money, tactical socks, especially when breaking in a new pair of boots. Other than that, it really just depends on him and what his preferences are.

No Vaughan love? USA made and used by a heck of a lot of contractors. If you swing hammers for a living you're mad to use a metal shaft model. Not that this applies to the OP, and Vaughan makes full metal hammers as well, but just saying there are more excellent options out there than Estwing.

Imho, more important than brand is type of hammer. He won't need a waffle faced framing hammer, for example. A trim hammer less than 20 oz, either rip or curve claw, would be ideal. Something like this would be great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IWOLLI/

If you're talking pictures or other lightweight items, and you have picture rails (thin trim on the wall, near the ceiling) picture-rail hooks and some wire or string:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=picture+rail+hook&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

If you don't have picture-rail trim (or it's un-usable, from a century of paint buildup, like mine) these work quite well:

https://www.amazon.com/Picture-Hangers-Coologin-Professional-Mounting/dp/B075QBTKJD/

The nails are quite skinny and sharp, and the hook holds it steady while you tap it in, so (in my experience) they never do any damage to old plaster walls. If you're at all nervous about it, get an upholstery tack hammer

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Sure-Strike-Tack-Hammer/dp/B001DZTQG0/

It's small & light enough that you won't damage the wall if you miss, but heavy enough to get the job done when you don't miss.

Either way, don't smack the shit out of it. Repeated light taps will get you there. tap, tap, tap, tap...

​

If you need to hang something heavy, like a shelf, use toggle bolts. Specifically, snap-toggles

https://www.amazon.com/12-TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-included-Fastener/dp/B01IU6HG48/

are way easier to use than traditional toggle bolts. Although you might need to buy longer bolts, separately, because old plaster's a lot thicker than drywall. And you will be going through a lot of drill bits, old plaster just eats them. So get spares. I second the tape trick, and (depends on the wall, you get a feel for it) masonry bits sometimes work better.

​

I used to love the screw-type anchors, but I've also had them get stopped by the scratch coat or the lathe, then blow out the surface coats; result is a hole 2-3 inches across and an inch deep. So... counter to some people in this thread... I Do Not Recommend those.

Well, Christmas is right around the corner. So you can start off with a nice pink toolbox

Here's one on Amazon

As for tools sized for kids, here's a 8oz pink handle hammer

Or you can go with a pink stubby tool set which is more sized for younger kids

I'd get a nice pink toolbox for now...and the pink stubby tools.

And maybe like a pink LED headlamp, some safety glasses, hearing protection

The pink tool sets are cool and all, but really she doesn't have any use for them. Whereas the glasses and hearing protection she could use while working with you. And the stubby tools she could use until she gets bigger. And the headlamp has a million uses as a kid. And as she gets older and she starts wanting to help more, you can identify what she needs.

Then, instead of getting a bunch of tools she doesn't have any use for now, you can start a new holiday tradition where you get her useful adult sized tools each year.

That way by the time she is going off to college and getting her own place, she's got a legit toolbox full of useful tools.

Plus...it will never get old watching her all excitedly open up a christmas present only to realize its wire strippers and an assortment of wire nuts instead of toys or things she asked for

I recently removed some brick from my fireplace and I used this chisel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NIFBA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this hammer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I33UDUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was using some old chisels and a claw hammer and it was getting the job done, but the way I look at it, if I'm going to save us a bunch of money fixing the house myself then I'm going to treat myself with tools. These two tools made a significant difference.

The chisel is a no brainer for the price, sped things up a lot because of the large size, less splintering of what was there, etc. The large size will help you get between the mortar and the current brick you don't want to disturb.

The sledge is optional. Everyone has claw hammers and it gets the work done. But I was amazed at how much more powerful a couple of pounds are when you're driving chisels and knocking out bricks instead of just pounding nails. Don't know how I never owned a sledge hammer before now.

I would start simple and work my way up. First thing I ever built was a bird house as a kid. I grew up building theater sets. And now I build about anything I set my mind to.


My tool box is huge due to other activities but last time I did a solely wood based project my tool box would have been something like this:
(I apologize if I am saying things you already know, I wrote the fallowing as if the reader has no tool knowledge)

20-oz hammer
>a heavy hammer is always good for driving nails, making bolts fit and generally hitting things as needed. I carry a 20-OZ husky.

Utility Knife
>Utility Knifes are much different then regular knifes, I prefer these retractable's over folders, but that is probably just because it is what I grew up with.

pliers and a wrench

Ratchet set
>Ratchet Sets are nice to have but not necessarily a "Must have" Ratchets make the job of a wrench and pliers easier.

Power Drill
>Linked is the drill I own. This charger will put the battery 0-30% in 10 min and fully charge from dead in 30 min.
>You can also also buy saw and sander attachments for the drill along with many others. I have the jigsaw and the sander and the jigsaw gets tons of use.

Drill Bit Set
>the set linked will let you do just about anything you may need to do with a drill. Drill holes, drive screws, ext.



This list as it stands is $270. I think you will find that as you do projects and continue to learn your tool collection will expand. Tools like air guns/compressors, table saws, miter saws, circular saws, drill presses, ext. are all useful in time, but slightly more expensive... and large..


TD;DR: Really the answer is simply this: You shouldn't buy tools then go looking for a project. Find a project you want to do, then find the tools to do the job.

The problem with vintage is they are not commonly in good condition, or at a good price and are rarely both. You need help now. I like my two woodriver planes and think it's a great option. I have had the Stanley one there and it's not good. Also the z saw and the gyo are essentially the same thing.

Here are some things I think are better values or super useful.

https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542519&sr=8-1&keywords=narex+chisels

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Shop-Hammer-13-Oz/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542635&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+chisel+hammer

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3EFC-Dia-Sharp-Extra-Fine-Diamond/dp/B00006IIO3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542814&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+diasharp

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542992&sr=8-2&keywords=marking+gauge

For the same price but for greater utility, better performance, more ease of use, better safety, not looking like a weirdo or idiot, and so forth:

A cheap actual tool set if you need stuff for home or workplace to share-

https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Orange-39-Piece-Tool-Set/dp/B00RF9J8DY/

If you want a hammer and axe for camping and home use-

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Riggers-Axe-Hatchet-Reduction/dp/B00DT0OSF6/

Light drywall cutting and nailing alternative-

https://www.amazon.com/Westward-6DWK4-Drywall-Hammer-Steel/dp/B004V06TOQ/

If you want the actual tool capabilities of the multitool part but not the weight-

https://www.amazon.com/SWITCHEDGE-Tools-Crimson-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0103JS8H4/

Better multitool for everything-

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

This is cool and that it's adjustable is great.

I just use a 4LB Hammer that's not used for work just for grip training (so it's not dirty and fucked up).

Would love if the handle was round and wide like your set up. Otherwise, I like keeping this sucker around.

This reminds me of all the medicines that say they should not be taken during pregnancy purely because it has not been tested.

However, who is going to submit all this testing to be done? Which mother and which child?

Men are seen as more disposable and this is one of the few advantages....things to prevent early disposing are designed for those who are most disposable.

The complaints about generic designs being in favor of male hands and body types are simply targeting their main audience.

So when do we get more egalitarian designs for Thunder from Down Under, Twilight, Rom Coms and such that are designed for women?

Maybe this is a new business opportunity! Start marketing those designs! Oh wait...these already exist!

You can quickly see proactive thing like this: https://www.murseworld.com/

They have nursing uniforms and design for men only. Seems like a more niche but good market........

...which is the same for many things discussed in the article! Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-21001-Essentials-Fiberglass/dp/B003VPAF10/?tag=toolguyd-20

There are ergonomically designed tools for women out there.

It seems like this article was poorly researched and was simply created to try and get outrage clicks. I find this to be fairly common from The Guardian.

He'll order a large wooden mallet online, paint the head grey with some spraypaint. wrap a thin ragged leather strap stolen from a baseball glove around the handle.... It would be perfect, so little effort, so much praise from fucking worthless nerds. At the very least it will impress the shit out of you, right "rodohilo"? Right? Because badly painting a red sled got your e-panties all wet.

AND I CAN TAKE 50 PICTURES OF MYSELF WHILE I COMPLETE A TWO-TASK PROJECT! OH GOD, WHICH INSTAGRAM FILTERS WILL I CHOOSE! THATS LIKE THE HARDEST PART OF MY PROJECT BRO!

Fuck, what am i doing! I dont want to give this asshole any ideas. All this sweet, sweet praise for my shitty adult arts and crafts could be mine all mine! Oh sweet, i could have a huge bunch of shut-ins and manchildren calling me all sorts of cool! DONT STEAL MY IDEAS! STAMPED IT! DOUBLE-STAMPED IT!

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UG8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vN.pzbPA9WWVN

This'll probably work too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL4UI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_6O.pzbMNCAMXZ

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_YQ.pzb7E4XC6F

How to Speed Up a Computer
^^^By ^^^ArchDucky

Step 1 : Open up the case and blow out the dust with a can of compressed air. Do this outside or in the bedroom of an enemy.
Step 2 : Run Windows Disc Cleanup, CCleaner and Malware Bytes. They are free so don't pay for them.
Step 3 : Run Windows Defrag several times. (Several means more than once.)

And if that doesn't work, purchase this device from amazon and apply liberally to the inside and outside of the case.

Then this is the only tool you need

Try this:

Fix for all your PC problems

This might come in handy.

This Mallet because i need something softer than a hammer sometimes.
Junkyard dogs

Japanese Shop Hammer, 13 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qjchDbZDKTN6R

Game on