Reddit mentions: The best hammers

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Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

• Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.
  
  
• Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.
  
  
• Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.
  
  
• Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.
  
  
• Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.
  
  
  
• Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.
  
  
• Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.
  
  
• Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.
  
  
• Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.
  
  
• Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.
  
  *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
  
  For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
  
  As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
  
  All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
  
  As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
  
  Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
  

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

• A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  
• Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  
• A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  
• A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  
• A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  
• Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.
  
  I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
  
  As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
  
  Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
  
  If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
  
  The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.

There are several tools on that list that could be brought used. I would look at vintage braces, drawknives, planes, spokeshaves and maybe saws.

New braces aren't even worth looking at, they're either crap, expensive or in most cases both. Vintage braces are a dime a dozen, you should be able to pick up a good one for $10-20. For general use a 10” brace is a good size. Brands to look at are Stanley, Millers Fall and North Bros. There are a few others as well but those are the most common. Here’s an in depth guide to restoring braces.

The rest of those have both good new or vintage options.

It’s not to hard to find a vintage drawknife for $10-$30. Just make sure the edge or handles aren’t severely damaged. Restoring is straightforward, just remove any rust, sharpen it and clean up the handles if needed. There seems to be a lot of medium priced new drawknives available but I haven't used any so I can't really comment on them.

Planes and spokeshaves are in the same boat. There’s plenty to choose from both new and used. In general when looking at these tools new the cheap ones are crap. Your much better off buying vintage tools and restoring them if you want save money here. Vintage planes are very easy to get. In general you want to look for planes made pre WW2. During and after the war the quality of hand tools started to diminish. Here’s a good site for dating Stanley planes. I won’t go into to much detail about restoring planes as there’s so much information on the subject online. Restoring planes is pretty much foolproof as long as you do some brief research. A decent Stanley No. 4 can be had for $20-40 quite easily. It might take a few hours of work to tune it up but once you do you’ll have a good plane.

The major brands for new planes are Woodriver, Veritas (Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen from lest expensive to most expensive. As you can see these planes are much more expensive than buying a vintage plane and restoring it. So what are you getting for all that extra money? All three brand’s planes will be ready to go out of the box except for honing the blade. They’re better quality than most of the commonly available vintage planes and in my opinion work better. I’m not saying vintage planes aren’t good, I just think that these planes are nicer to use. LN and Veritas are both very high quality but LN stuff is a bit more fancy. Both are manufactured in North America. Woodriver planes are made in China but are still good quality. I’m not sure about Woodriver but both LN and Veritas tools have a lifetime guarantee. If anything goes wrong with their tools they’ll replace or fix it no questions asked. I’ve even seen multiple examples of them fixing or replacing tools that were damaged due to user error. Both companies have top notch customer support as well, they’re always pleasant to deal with.

Spokeshaves are the same as planes. You can get some nice vintage spokeshaves cheap or opt for new ones but you going to pay a premium.

There’s not right or wrong way to go here. I suggest you get your hands on some their tools and give them a go. If you E-mail the companies I’m sure they will give you some info on where you can try them them out. Some woodwork retailers will have some out that you can have a play with.

Good vintage saws are a bit harder to find for good prices now. I’m not even sure if it’s worth it any more. The last few times I’ve look for vintages saw the prices were so high it made sense for me to buy new. I think the Vertias back saws are good value for money. They’re good quaility and are about half the price of any other decent back saws. You could also go for Japanese saws. I don’t really a fan of Japanese tools so I can't really make any suggestions there.

For most of the other tools on your list I'd new. I like the Narex chisels. They're cheap but good quality. For the hammer I would recommend a Estwing. It's well balanced, feels nice to use and is all steel so you dont have to worry about the handle coming loss.

For sharpening I'd recommend diamond plates. They're not to expensive, easy to use and last a long time.

I'm not a huge fan of hook knives as I prefer to carve seasoned hardwoods rather than green, so I prefer gouges instead. I love my set of Flexcut Deluxe Palm Set for detail work, well worth the investment for me with excellent steel, quality, and fit/finish. The only problem is the relative small size, making large amounts of stock removal a chore even with a mallet. I plan to invest in a set of Flexcut's mallet tools next and use larger antique carving gouges for that task. As for a mallet, I love my Wood is Good mallet for gouges, and a chisel hammer for bench chisels. The carving mallet allows you to put different angles and power behind your blows for carving, while the chisel hammer lets you connect very squarely.

For me at least, a spokeshave is a must for contouring the outer bowl and handle. I prefer a good antique Stanley 53 as you can adjust the mouth to quickly dial in depth of cut. They are affordable on the secondhand market and depending on where you live can be found at flea markets and antique shops. Veritas also makes multiple models that i have heard great things about and plan to purchase one of those in the future as well.

Rather than an axe, I prefer a small draw knife for roughing work. I currently have the Flexcut 5" which isn't bad if you can get it on sale, but it is a bit smaller than I would like. Currently on the lookout for a larger antique one at a good price. If I am going to use an axe, I like a sharp hewing hatchet, as it is easier to get the bevel to bite accurately without gouging too deeply.

A good carving knife is beneficial, but I find myself using my bench chisels for that work more often. You don't need to go too crazy here as they are very simple tools, and you can get sets on Amazon for cheap. I like my VonHaus set, and have heard good things about Narex as well. I have a set of Flexcut carving knives but honestly find the pelican knives useless and would much rather have something else, but do use the carving knife and detail knife on occasion. Wish this set would have come with any other 2 knives.

Whatever tools you decide on, invest equally in your sharpening system. The best tools on the planet aren't worth anything if they dull and you can't bring them back to a pristine edge, especially in seasoned hardwoods. Tools that allow you to control depth of cut are going to give you a more precise and evenly contoured look, whereas tools without depth control will give you a more rustic and uneven look. Each has their place and are fun to explore and mix. I prefer symmetrical, even shapes normally but love to switch it up and try new techniques. If you don't have the cash to make big purchases, start scouring local flea markets and antique shops. Normally there is at least one booth at flea markets specializing in cheap old tools which you will need to learn to restore. There is usually at least one antique shop as well that specializes in old tools (some woodworking specifically) that you want to search for. Be careful though, acquiring and restoring antique tools can end up being just as fun as using them. If you have any questions, just let me know!

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.

Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.

Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.

For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.

Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.

Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

I wouldn't recommend buying that list.

Replace the marking gauge with the basic Veritas model ($18->32). Or skip that entirely and make a marking gauge yourself.

Replace that Japanese hammer with this mallet. This has enough range to work for everything from carving to bench work/joinery, and it won't ruin western chisels like that japanese one.

If you're dead set on getting 4 chisels for $50 or less, head over here and get these Narex chisels. They are different from the ones on amazon and generally considered to be superior. If you can stretch a little bit more, buy the chisels I wish I bought when I was first starting out.

That vise is junk, but you need a way to hold your work. You can do a lot with a few clamps (and, unlike a disposable vise, they will be useful forever). Or build a simple viseless workbench early on. Or buy a vise screw and make a vise out of wood.

I'm not a japanese saw expert, but you could cut that list down to one Ryoba and add incrementally later.

Those "bench cookies" are fine to support work during finishing. I have some deployed right now...but they are a small optimization that you don't need to spend money on just yet.

If you're going to buy a cheap combination square, go to the hardware store and test it out before you buy to make sure it reliably locks down square. If you want something that you can order online and trust, it's going to cost a lot more (Starrett, etc). You really need a square that extends to 12" to cover your bases, but if you can swing it, get a 6" too. It's the one you'll be using 80% of the time.

Hey, FYI, the link you shared contains Amazon Referral tags, that will associate anyone who clicks it with you.

You shared this URL:

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPIT470/?coliid=I8TY3BLO5227M&colid=2V77J81YB3FSS&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

But all we needed was this part:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPIT470/

AutoModerator auto-removes threads & comments that contain referral links or tags to help maintain anonymity and prevent anyone from profiting from links/clicks/views.

Please clean the tags from future Amazon URLs.

Thanks.

Thank you for extending it another day, I haven't had the chance to sit down and look through my lists yet!

How about 133 $.15 Amazon gift cards? ;-) I know, that counts as digital, I'm just bein' silly.

Really though, I have to start with this, to keep my darn cat from tracking litter all through the bathroom and the rest of the apartment! (On this list)

Next, these tools would make cooking just a liiiittle easier; it's hard to get pasta out of a pot with a fork. (On this list)

This will make things just a bit easier when it comes to hanging up my nail polish rack. (On this list)

Currently that takes us to $19.81, all with Prime shipping! Gifting is fun! :-D

I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.

These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.

Looking for earbuds for using on my phone and for the ps4 narrowed it down to a few all help appreciated. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0146U49VA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3I61BV823ALC6&psc=1 one option
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001EZYMF4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OL0IHJR5ERDA&coliid=I25V1H398NUUAC&psc=1 another option
Please feel free to recommend others or just help me pick between the two.

I recommend these because they are reliable tools and aren't too expensive (subjective, of course). Nice tools will make you want to do more stuff yourself, I guarantee it! You probably can save some dough using Home Depot Husky / Lowes Kobalt/craftsman, or Harbor Freight. I have cheap tools too, but for the tools I use often, I invest a little more.

• Klein pliers/screwdriver set. All USA made. 6 useful tools for $88 isn't too bad. OR a Wiha insulated pliers/screwdrivers set for $83. OR a 'Channellock pliers set for $68
  
• Gearwrench reversible ratcheting wrenches metric, SAE $33 / each set
  
• Estwing 16oz hammer
  
• Estwing rubber mallet
  
  Edit: what's up with the downvote? I'm too sensitive :)

Here's an example of something that will work great! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S0OIW6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450281491&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=carpenters+mallet&dpPl=1&dpID=31L1X5rkGsL&ref=plSrch

Issue with metal mallets / meat tenderizers is they can rip cheap Lewis bags pretty easily. Wood works just as effectively and is less abrasive (and, imho, looks better too)

First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).

Then of course a proper hammer

Then some starter punches

Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)

Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.

depends on what diy goals you have in mind. What I find myself using 80+% of the time when I am doing home diy stuff is some combo of the following.....

• Circular saw for breaking down sheet goods
  
• 
  
• Miter saw for breaking down dimensional lumber and trim cuts
  
• 
  
• Hammer
  
• 
  
• pry bars
  
• 
  
• my demo hammer (see below)
  
• 
  
• clamps
  
• 
  
• cordless drill
  
• 
  
• cordless impact driver
  
• 
  
• side cutter pliers
  
• 
  
• 11-in-1 screwdriver (see below)
  
• 
  
• Channel locks
  
• 
  
• Vise grips
  
• 
  
• socket and wrench set
  
• 
  
• putty knife
  
• 
  
• box cutter
  
• 
  
• tape measure
  
• 
  
• multimeter
  
• 
  
• wire strippers
  
• 
  
  don't forget yard work
  
  
  
• pump sprayer
  
• 
  
• seed/fertilizer spreader
  
• 
  
• mower
  
• 
  
• weed trimmer
  
• 
  
• rake
  
  A lot of those above tools stay in a tool bag I carry around, along with stuff like a pencil, markers, drill bit kit, driver kit, zipties and a few other such items.
  
  For basic tools and power tools for the weekend warrior..Harbor Freight is hard to beat.
  
  For good deals on power tools and air tools that are a of better quality...bigskytools.com has great deals on refurbished dewalt, hitachi, bosch and millwaukee tools.
  
  For your stated goals...I would go with a sander, a miter saw, a circular saw, carpenter square, speed square, a 48" level and a 12" level, and some other small tools I mentioned.
  
  Heres a good miter saw. Will handle everything you will need
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCH2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000NKB3LW
  
  Bigsky runs frequent deals on nailer/compressor combos should you wind up doing lots of trim. And frequently they will have a good 15 amp circular saw for around $50.
  
  Speed Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O
  
  Carpenter / Framing Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Framing-Hi-Contrast-Aluminum-1794447/dp/B005XUHH5S
  
  wood chisel set
  https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-150-Short-3-Piece-Chisel/dp/B00002X1YO
  
  Demo hammer - This hammer is HEAVY but it will chew through just about anything. If you are gonna be doing demo work I strongly suggest getting one...and a big wrecking/demo bar also
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Pulverizer-Concrete-Demolition-Hammer/dp/B002IKM6XO
  
  Heres that 11-in-1 scewdriver. i use this thing 99% of the time I need a manual screwdriver. I bought more just put one in my autos and one at work.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tool-48-22-2114-Screwdriver/dp/B006WTK436
  
  I know I saved it for last...but don't forget safety gear. Glasses, face shield, gloves and if you are going to be doing dusty work or painting then get some breathing protection.
  
  

I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.

EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.

EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.

most definitely possible. you can either use an EF-E mount adapter like metabones or sigma, OR my preferred method to get the best quality (requires some DIY), is to get a set of these, lightly and i do mean LIGHTLY taper out the mount to the right shape of the lens mount. Tapping the end of the tool with one of these, for stubborn spots. Don't worry if you slip a bit and hit the sensor. Anything that shows up in your images, you can crop out in post.

Clean it up and polish it down with this. Best stuff in the business.

​

You'll be 🔪🔪☠KILLING IT 🔪🔪☠ in the photography game afterwards. All you pics will be 🔥🔥LIT🧯🧯!

For regular cars, the Res-Q-Me is pretty much ideal. Zip tie one to the emergency brake handle and you can find it upside down in the dark.

If you have to get through laminated glass in a hurry you want a no-nonsense tool for that. The glass first needs to break, and then it either needs to be pulled or pushed out of the way, or sawed through.

Side windows can usually be broken, and then pushed out with an elbow or foot. They are not attached on all four sides like a windshield. Windshields can be broken and kicked out, but that can be hard to do with you hands. The saw is used because rescuers don't want to kick it in towards the passengers.

My first choice would be a small rock hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Rock-Pick-Geological-Reduction/dp/B01EKZFJVK/ref=sr_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1542978396&sr=1-10&keywords=rock+hammer

Find a good way to secure it so it won't bounce around in the cab if you wreck and roll it. Velcro straps might be good. Once you get that hammer in your hands the side windows are toast, and you have a good fighting chance with the windshield too.

Looks good, sir. I did the same thing with a google doc for my 300BLK build.

I really like those sights, I have the exact same ones with the HK style front on my Windham SRC.

If you don't already have a hammer, you'll want to get a non-metal one to use with the punches. I got this one, good price and works well.

This mallet works pretty well for getting pieces to fit together: TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ7hDb17C17DE

Also, I only use glue a few times per insert, when a joint feels particularly loose. Most brands fit together nicely and feel quite sturdy when they’re done. I second the recommendation for gorilla wood glue on this front.

The zombies ate my brains yet I was able to come up with a couple items:

• Cricket Bat - not necessarily unusual thanks to Shawn of the Dead, but unusual to own in the US. Would be great for smashing heads.
  
• Sickle - not quite as good for range, but would be good for beheading.
  
• A Spear would be good to keep them at range and run less risk of a bite.
  
• You could be a badass like Tyrese in the Walking Dead comic and use a regular old Claw Hammer
  
• Some leather forearm guards would be good for reducing your chance of a bite while using any melee weapons.
  
• You could also go all Dead Rising and carry around a stack of traffic cones to slap on their heads...
  
  Gotta get back to work, but thanks for this it was amusing...

Ok she's going to need a rock hammer. I recommend an estwing like this: https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-E3-22P-Pointed-Shock-Reduction/dp/B0002OVCMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500498067&sr=8-2&keywords=rock+hammer

hand lens (not a magnifying glass)! Every geo has one: https://www.amazon.com/Magnifier-Triplet-Illuminating-Magnifying-Jeweler/dp/B00KAPBYNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500498120&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+lens

Journal/composition book for her to take notes and catalog her findings

Other things to think about: geology summer camp, local rockhounding groups/clubs, identification book, mineral ID kit, vest with lots of pockets, boxes for the rocks to be stored in, and good boots.

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.



Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

They reduce some of the vibration. I use that hammer with a wood handle for most things and I use this one for jobs that need a more durable hammer, like concrete work https://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM 200 bucks is a lot cheaper than shoulder surgery which I will be needing in the near future.

The weight is a bigger issue for you joints with how they are engineering hammers now. Titanium is denser than steel so you get the same swinging power with less weight.

Martinez tools made a 16oz titanium handled hammer with a steel head so you get the best of both worlds.

Spend the money now on good hammers so you don't have spend it on repairing your body in the future.

/hammer rant

Under $50? Oy, so many choices.

Opinel knives. Any of them. Sharp as hell, thin blades, cheap enough that if you break one, you don't care.

Nemosine Singularity $20, but a simple and nearly bulletproof fountain pen. Makes my life much easier and my hands hurt much less after a long day writing.

Old Hickory kitchen knives. They're carbon steel and will rust if you don't clean and dry them after each use, but the thin blades and good geometry made a $12 butcher my favorite knife in the block. Mine took some work with a file to get the point sharp, but for $10 it was worth it.

Estwing tools. My hammer has kept grinning through 15 years of work, and still is in excellent shape. One reviewer complains of a ringing noise- never heard it.

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

I work industrial maintenance

It's hard for me to suggest you a tool when I don't know what you have, need, and want upgraded

I will say my favorite tool is my Proto ball peen hammer

Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H1LLFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nugTBb02HA74P

The ergonomics and quality are perfect on it. Highly suggested

What tools are you considering? I'll suggest you models per tool wanted

Kitchen knife? Henckels international classic paring knife?

https://smile.amazon.com/J-Henckels-International-CLASSIC-Utility/dp/B00004RFMO/

I might not say that it'll last half a century but I'm happy with my atactical a1.

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Sheath-95BUSKZ/dp/B00BD4W54Q/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Toughness-Durability-Edge-Holding-Capabilities/dp/B00AU6BFDK/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Modified-SpeedSafe-Reversible-Glass-Filled/dp/B06XR8XTJP/

https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W/

https://smile.amazon.com/Estwing-Hammer-Straight-Smooth-Reduction/dp/B0000224VG/

Some wiha screwdrivers

Lifetime warranty https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Forged-Scissors/dp/B00114LTMC/

I recommend you go with the iFixit 54 Driver Kit its $35 dollars on amazon and will open up almost every you will need in the electronic department, and I would go for something more like Ryobi HP44L for you electric screwdriver, the Flipout you had post does seem too comfortable to use if you plan to do a lot with it. The ryobi and a 68 piece driver set on amazon is only $54 between that kit and the iFixit kit (which is the kit that your Vastar kit is copying) you should be about to do anything for common stuff around your apartment to all the electronic work you could think of. iFixit Ryobi Driver Ryobi Set


I just posted my "Basic Tool Kit" but I don't think you really need all that for what you want to do, pick up these key item as you get extra money or as you can to up grade what you have, Channellock Pliers Set, Estwing Hammer, Wera Screw Set, Milwaukee Tape Measure, and Milwaukee Utilty Knife. With all of this I can't think of anything that could slow you down in an apartment setting.

EDIT: grammar and Format

I'm a carpenter by trade and my hammer is so much my baby that I have one hanging from my belt and one in the truck.

The reason I bought a Titanium hammer is because every time I'd have to pry forms off of the concrete I'd snap my hammer in half. I bought this bad girl in hopes that it wouldn't break, it still hasn't and you're in luck, they're about half the price they were when I bought mine 4 years ago.

http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417527795&sr=8-1&keywords=Tibone+2+hammer

you should get yourself a tibone. Like a $300 hammer but they feel like feathers and hit like lightning. Plus lifetime warranty on the removeable head. Might be more to it, but i cant remember.

Anyway, you'd be putting up houses so fast, the housing market would crash.

Canadian Amazon link to the interested.



It's matching the ultimate tool with the ultimate skill.

A couple ideas:

A rock hammer/pick- This is the most popular and here is the slightly fancier version.

Every rockhound needs a bag or bucket to carry their rocks while out hounding. I use this but a popular choice seems to be a canvas messenger-like bag such as this one.

Tools to buy today

Knipex 8701250 10-Inch Cobra Pliers

[Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H1LLFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJnQCb4SE5G75)

[Mayhew 61355 Dominator Screwdriver Pry Bar Set, Curved, 3-Piece] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000T4URU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CSnQCbKKNE6HK) you'll carry the small one in your pouch, you'll keep the other 2 in your toolbox. You'll learn to love prybars on this job.

In most of my work, I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Thor-712R-Faced-Hammer-Handle/dp/B0001P0YF0

However, if I am doing something like a bed or large table with long, wide, and deep mortises (e.g. 4-6” long, 1/2-3/4” wide, 1.5-2” deep, times 8), I will switch to a larger wooden joiners mallet. My wrist thanks me the next day.

>a nice tool for his work

Came here to say that. I'd recommend an Estwing Hammer.

Obligatory Estwing shoutout. Best and last hammer I'll ever buy.

id go for the 14-16 ounce stiletto. if you wanna stay around that price point. the tb15 is the single best hammer on this earth it does everything you need and more.
https://www.amazon.ca/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM

A tool like this will let you fit this into a standard mobo pci-e slot.

>Allen wrenches (P or T handle)

Journeyman T-Handle Set, Metric, 6-Inch, 8-Piece Klein Tools JTH68M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MI5M8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3cXIDbNCP19SG

>Screwdriver set

Wera, but I've always been OK with cheaper sets



>Impact that can snatch a lug nut (M18)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-4-Mode-Compact-Impact-Wrench-Kit-with-1-4-0-Ah-Battery-and-18-Volt-Charger-R86011SB/303037082?mtc=Shopping-B-FBT-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-Catchall-NA-NA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-FBT-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-Catchall-NA-NA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700010802552394&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoKzsBRC5ARIsAITcwXF1m8fNLyn-IPd_ArcGroRU4Gt7QZ1cseThUs5fyu7qTQE3abdzA_QaAsbaEALw_wcB

>Hand impact driver set

Harbor freight (unless you're talking about pneumatic)

>Ball pine hammer

Stanley Proto J1316AVP Antivibe Ball Pein Hammer, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H1LLFFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePWIDb7HKKZ39





>Hardware storage

Harbor freight

As for the rock hammer I recommend one of these estwing brand hammers:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002OVCMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408402300&sr=8-1

Used one in college geology courses, extremely well built.

I used to carry that same model hammer, but then I found this beauty. Much better for EDC, leaves me tons of room for other essentials.

I've had one of these for decades. Pretty much indestructible.

First, I would not recommend using those rubber caps - they'll probably leave black marks on whatever you're hitting.

I would recommend getting a specific non-marring hammer rather that putting a rubber cup over a regular hammer.

I really like this hammer:
TEKTON 30812 Double-Faced Soft Mallet, 35 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWVAUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hmYACbJB984TN

Also, a few layers of electrical tape on a regular hammer works too, in a pinch.

Hi I'm searching for a hammer/mallet type instrument of destruction...that isn't all that destructive. I saw these Japanese chisel hammers people were apparently also using on planes and some dual sided hammers with a soft and a harder side which made me wonder if there was one that would work on both wood and metal without damaging either one. Specifically I hope to use it to adjust a wooden plane requiring me to hit both metal and wood. I'm trying not to spend a lot of money to start out with so I want to avoid things that go into the realm of luxury tools.

cheaper dual sided hammer without replaceable ends

dual sided hammer with replaceable ends and higher price

japanese steel hammer (flat/domed ends)

http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM

Amazon link to it if anyone's interested.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPIT470/

That the one you are referring to? Do you know if there are any solid reviews on it or if it's been updated at all or anything else more about it? I've been looking at these types of backpacks and this one seemed like the best design of the ones I've found, but it also has some questionable reviews on Amazon but also I couldn't find any really solid/good reviews on it anywhere else.

Biggest concern for me is quality and if it will actually hold up for a long time considering the price of it.

Pretty sure I don't need this, but I still want one.

http://www.amazon.com/Jackson-2517400-Pulverizer-Concrete-Demolition/dp/B002IKM6XO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EAK96GJEZ5E24GGA2KC

Wood Hockey stick price new - $35.00 (I didn't use any of these)

Wood Hockey stick price used - $5.00 (I used 2 of these)

Hockey stick price used (donated from friends) - $0.00 (I used 2 of these)

Mallet Price - $35

Homemade mallet VALUE - priceless

You had a look at the official Sony ones? I heard decent things about them;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-PlayStation-Ear-Headphones-PS4/dp/B0146U49VA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493132977&sr=8-3&keywords=playstation+earbuds

I would love to try and pair but the in-ear ones never stay in my ears so I can never use em

Rock hammer examples- - - https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Rock-Pick-Geological-Reduction/dp/B01EKZFJVK

https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Rock-Hammer-Pointed-Geological/dp/B079P78VL7


Eye protection (z-87 rated) safety glasses or goggles (Goggles preferred).


Cold chisel 12 - 16 inch long 3\4 to 1 inch edge example https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-12205-12-Inch-Handguarded/dp/B0016N07S0/ref=sr_1_1

Leather work gloves


3 lb hammer example https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Strike-Drilling-Crack-Hammer/dp/B00433SC4Q


Magnifying loop 30x


Plastic baggies 1 gallon size for rocks.


Back pack

Gold pan, perhaps.

Pry bar is some times handy

Yep Here it is on Amazon and you can see five different people talking about how they used it on their AR and it worked great.

On other things, maybe....NOT on this pin. This pin is the granddaddy of shit pins

Here you are mate! You too can play in molten lava.

I was thinking of something like this

Thank you for the suggestion, u/munscza. Is this hammer (https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Strike-Drilling-Crack-Hammer/dp/B00433SC4Q) a good fit to knock the tire or an over kill?

From left to right, top to bottom:

• Brace brace and bit (hand drill)
  
• Stanley number 4 1/2 plane
  
• Mortise Gauge
  
• Marking Gauge
  
• Flat file
  
• Old Paramo Saw
  
• Green stick of buffing compound
  
• Can with an oil soaked rag in it
  
• Am Tech 45mm Panel Hammer
  
• Thor Soft Faced Hammer
  
• Cheap Aldi chisels
  
• Stanley Knife
  
• Combination square

Assuming you have a table with a reasonably thin edge:

1. clamp on vise
   
2. basic pin punch set
   
3. Hammer
   
4. Flat blade screw driver
   
5. I used a .025 feeler gauge to help me assemble the front takedown pin. Worked first try. Much easier than messing around with a razor knife.
   
   Last week I built my first AR on my computer desk in my bedroom. That said, I /did/ buy a complete upper, so I only had to build the lower and assemble the buffer tube (technically need to torque the castle nut, but if you stake it, it's not gonna come off, so unless you are assembling your barrel to your upper receiver or don't have much innate sense of rough torquing, I'd count the torque wrench as an optional tool)

Practical or decorative?

Practical:

• Rite in the Rain Field Book: http://amzn.com/B0011DGJSC
  
• Estwing Rock Hammer: http://amzn.com/B0002OVCMO
  
• Geotechnical Gauge Card: http://amzn.com/B00MV103OY
  
  Decorative/Romantic:
  
  
• Amber Jewelery
  
• Trilobite or Ammonite Pendant necklaces
  
• Labradorite Shot Glasses

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000224VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468885539&sr=1-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hammer&dpPl=1&dpID=31ZTujPkvvL&ref=plSrch

Pick your size and call it a day. Don't overthink it.

The new estwing cooler

I used these long roll pin punches:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

​

​

Esistono quelli ufficiali Sony, hanno lo stesso interruttore di quelli di serie, sono stereo, in-ear e la qualità audio dovrebbe essere qualitativamente migliore

https://www.amazon.it/PlayStation-Auricolari-Tecnologia-AudioShield-Special/dp/B0146U49VA/ref=sr_1_1_twi_gam_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484485420&sr=8-1&keywords=auricolari+ps4

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0146U49VA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452798927&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=sony+ps4+in+ear+headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41l2fdRpExL&ref=plSrch

It works. Both Paul Sellers and Richard Maguire use this guy: https://smile.amazon.com/Thor-712R-Faced-Hammer-Handle/dp/B0001P0YF0 (as do I, but I don't have their credentials)

Eswing hammer or nothing. This is the only hammer you need for the rest of your life.

This: http://yfrog.com/h62biaaj which was my grandfather's 1937 model of this: http://www.amazon.com/Estwing-E16S-16-Ounce-Straight-Leather/dp/B0000224VE

levels
https://www.amazon.com/Stabila-37524-Promo-Level-37424/dp/B0007Y69G8/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1475088228&sr=1-6&keywords=stabila+levels

hammer
https://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM

What size are your lobes? Do you have the same issue with circumaural headphones? I'm at 10mm and I don't generally have an issue with around the ear headsets. You could try something like this?

Dat Stiletto framing hammer. HRNGH. SO LIGHT.

http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451866711&sr=8-3&keywords=stiletto+framing+hammer

they are fairly pricey, but you can import http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-PlayStation-Ear-Headphones-PS4/dp/B0146U49VA/

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0146U49VA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B006H3PSYM&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=02QVPPY69J4397QDK18P

You can do this now. Just buy this $16 memory eraser.

I bought mine on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-PlayStation-Ear-Headphones-PS4/dp/B0146U49VA these? They probably sold like crap and were pulled from the market

Nah, I'd say go with this one

-The black case is Veritas' Cabinetmaker's Installation Kit
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71776&cat=1,41504
It includes:
-Low-Angle Jack Plane w/ 2 blades
-3 Butt chisels
-Flush-Cut saw
-2 Japanese Milled-Tooth files (flat and half-round)

The shoulder plane is Veritas Medium shoulder plane
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41182,41192,48430&p=48430

Hammer is Thor with soft and hard face
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001P0YF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A set of 4 Veritas Super-Hard milled scrapers
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32670&cat=1,310,41069

And last is Rockler quick release front vise
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RH16O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Gas Block: http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
  
• Punches: https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Gunsmithing-Gunsmith-Accessories/dp/B007WADKN0
  
• Wrench: https://www.amazon.com/Sports-AR15-Combo-Wrench-PJTW3/dp/B005LVMSD0
  
• Hammer: https://www.amazon.com/SE-8355HH-Dual-Interchangeable-Hammer/dp/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=pd_sim_469_26?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZ7XM5ZR3F93RWF9NBA4
  
• Handguard of your choice, (M-LOK, KeyMod, Picatinny)
  
  
• Doesn't have to be these exact items. Just as a reference so you know kinda what to look for.
  

This is where having a geology degree comes in handy. I frequently carry one of these with me. I even have a belt holder for it. If anyone asks, I just say I'm a geologist.

That sharp point is sharp as fuck.

Something that would be better at destroying brains. Baseball bats are too blunt force and need to crush skulls - requiring multiple hits per zombie. I want something that will pierce and destroy brains with single hits if possible.

I would start with a rock hammer because I have one on hand and it is light and compact enough that I can carry a spare if one gets stuck in a skull.

A rock pick would be on my scavenge list because it has a little more reach and can also serve extra functions: pry bar, digging, push off/hold back.

Both of those tools happen to be widely available near me. If they weren't, I'd start with claw hammers. A hardware store would probably have a FuBar, I would have Halligan tools on my scavenge list.

Any melee weapon I would add grip tape and have a backup.

I disagree with WindowShoppingMyLife, reach IS important. You're in trouble if zombies start grabbing you, so being able to kill zombies 24" before they can grab you (25" rock pick) is superior to being able to kill zombies 10" before they can grab you (12" hammer), especially if there is more than one zombie.