Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

Basically, you need a tank, a regulator some airline, a bubble checker would be good to have and a diffuser. Also, you'd like a timer of some sort as you really do not need to have co2 running 24/7 nor would you probably want to.

My setup:

• 24oz Paintball co2 tank: $30 at paintball shop filled with co2.
  $23 dollars on Amazon - though I would have still needed to get it filled at paintball shop for $5 which brings it $28. $2 more - i think it's better at that to support the local shop and plus I didn't want to wait for the tank to come to my house as that would have arrived later than anything else.
  
  
• Adapater to utilize paintball co2 tank - $9 on Amazon
  
  
• Bubble Counter - $10 on Amazon I know the regulator has a bubble counter, however with the paintball tank it would not work as it'll be horizontal instead of vertical - you can choose cheaper ones. I just liked this $10 one. Btw a bubble counter will show you how much co2 you're adding or at least how fast as not every bubble counter counts it at the same pace but a good gauge to see how much you are adding - ie. you really cannot ask how many bubbles per second you should be running. the 1-2 bps that I run might be different on your bubble counter)
  
  
• CO2 Regulator - $60 on Amazon
  
  Price for this setup: $109
  
  If you need a timer, there's plenty of options. I already had one, but you can find them on Amazon.
  
  
• I was able to get this one as an add-on for $3.54 for something else though now it's $14.50 :/ and ironically I switched to a smart switch idea for my build anyways.
  
  
• Got this smart switch to control my autodoser and some other things -if it works it's a good $20 spent.
  
  Though in the end, you would need a timer and if you already have one then you won't have to buy one. Or if you have extra smart switches either that you can set a schedule on.
  
  Other tanks:
  
  Instead of the paintball tank you can get a regular co2 tank:
  
  
• 5lb from Amazon - $62 + ~$20 to fill at an air place It would have brought my setup to $141 if I went that route. It might be $50 more than the paintball tank, but it only increases price by $40 because you don't need the adapter nor the bubble counter. Pros: It could be cheaper. 24oz paintball is $5 to fill(in most places) a 5lb which is ~80oz can be anywhere from $10-$20. If it's on the lower end of that range where you live it's cheaper. Other pro is that less often you need to fill it. Negative: Larger and harder to hide. It won't fit in my setup or how I have my tank setup.
  
  Of course, that's just buying the stuff to build the system.
  
  You can watch videos about it on Youtube like Aquarium Co-Op's Co2 guide but I can still try to break it down.
  
  Get tank and properly secure it to the regulator.(I'd recommend watching a video on that as the regulator does need to be open for this part apparently). If using the paintball tank, secure the adapter to regulator first. DO NOT secure it on the paintball tank first. If you do it with the way the adapter is built, I'm guessing you'd be losing a bit of co2. Though, I haven't tried it, I'm logically thinking that it ain't good. If you use a 5lb tank or larger, there's something about some disc or gasket or something that is supposed to help keep it from leaking. I'm going to refer you to youtube on that one. I didn't use any on my paintball setup except for the gasket already on the tank. I did use some plumbers tape on the adapter to regulator though. I'm just hoping I don't have a leak and I'd be pretty confident to assume that I don't as I still have CO2 in my tank after a couple of weeks.
  
  All you need to do now is to attach the airline hose(some people will say to use co2-proof hose to prevent co2 loss, but I decided to skip that and you can decide what you wish to do as I might be right or wrong on that part along with other people who claim airline tube is sufficient) to the regulator. So after you attach the hose to the regulator, attach the bubble counter somewhere along the line before the aquarium(I think I did that right). Of course, if you use the 5lb or larger tank, you should be able to use the bubble counter that came with the regulator as it would stand vertical. The line eventually gets connected to a co2 diffuser which will break up the co2 into smaller bubbles to easily be dissolved better into your water. Of course, there are other ways to get the co2 into your tank, but this is the way I do it. Youtube can show you other ways, or other redditors for that matter. One thing to note is that you should also have a check valve to prevent water from going from the aquarium to your system. It should most likely be closer to the water than the co2 system. The bubble counter I use, also has a check valve for whatever that one is worth. Some diffusers come with bubble counters and check valves as well. Speaking of diffusers, i forgot to add that to my price. but that can run anywhere from $5 on up. Also the diffuser might have to be cleaned due to algae once and awhile.
  
  The system should be ran using a timer to coincide with your light cycle and should run basically when the lights are on. I turn my co2 on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turn it off 2 hours before the light turn off. Hypothetically, you can run it 24/7 however it's better not to as the risks are a bit too much for putting something in your tank that is not being used as the plants typically don't use co2 with the lights out and you can risk running into a situation where you deplete the oxygen in your fish.
  
  Overall, I think it's worth it at least for me. But also be cautious that adding too much co2 might be detrimental to your fish. If you are running it and your fish are all gasping for air, you definitely are putting too much in but you should never get it that far which some way to check it would be a good purchase for this. I just use the method of figuring out the ppm of CO2 based on pH and KH. I'm not sure how accurate it might be but it has been stable and my fish are doing fine as well as my plants and the algae is at bay. There's also what's called a CO2 drop checker that you can purchase to measure this.
  
  If you really want to get into this, I'd recommend researching it further yourself and maybe wait on some other more "experienced" redditors to answer as I might and could be wrong on some things. I know I've read some people don't think the ph/kh calculation method is good and to buy a drop checker, but I'm pretty confident in using it for my tank but I might be undosing the co2 for all I know. Though on the flipside, I could be overdosing, though my fish are not showing any signs of symptoms of said overdosing. But I could be wrong on that. If I am, please let me know. :) Definitely do your own research, like you should on anything. :) At least, get a good footing and confirmation from other sources.

Mash tun cooler (this is probably cheaper at your local hardware store or wal mart) Also, this isn't the only cooler that works. Pretty much any plastic cooler works. But you'll need a different false bottom if you use a chest cooler, which may allow you to mash bigger batches.

Weldless Ball Valve Just take the plastic valve off the cooler and screw this one on. Will work on most any cooler you choose.

False bottom Put this at the bottom, connecting the silicon hose to the ball valve and the top of the false bottom.

3/8" barb You'll need to screw this onto the ball valve on the inside of the mash tun to connect the silicon hose to.

Honestly, if you've already got a kettle that can boil 6 gallons, you're good to go there, and just add this to the mix. Otherwise, pick up a Stainless Steel Brew Kettle.

This whole setup comes in just under $200 but you'll need some hoses and some hose clamps as well. But I'm sure that if you shop around (even on amazon) you might find better deals than I linked. But that's the gist of it. And there's no need to stick with the specific brands I linked. But just make sure to stick with stainless steel for the kettle, ball valve, and connecting accessories and food-grade plastic for the cooler. And any hoses need to be high temp hoses. Silicon is ideal.

This is by no means the "only" way to do it, but a great start down the road. You may also choose to use a pump. It has advantages and disadvantages. You can make great beer with and without one.

Hey - here is the hardware that I use to record my consoles (including Wii U) HERE

It will record anything that outputs video via a HDMI cable (or composite), and records on your PC via a USB cable and software that comes on the disc included with the hardware.

For recording your son (video/audio), he will need a camera and a microphone that can have its files eventually saved onto a PC for editing. I don't record any video of myself, but I use a Dictaphone (I paid around £80 for a decent one) to record myself talking and can connect it via USB to my PC where I join up the video (and game audio) taken from the games console and the audio (from my dictaphone) in video editing software (you can use any software that you can combine a separate audio file to a pre-existing video file).

I choose to record my Audio on a separate device, opposed to buying a microphone to record audio directly on my PC, as my PC is quite slow and does struggle to record both the game video and audio at the same time. Might be something to take into consideration if your PC is quite old.

I hope that helps :) however, as someone else has stated here, Nintendo get really funny about people uploading their games to Youtube. Technically Youtube stipulates that you can upload game footage as long as someone is talking over it and the commentary adds educational or instructional value to the game - a lot of people would argue comedic commentary also fits into this legally.

Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.

The support page for the Mini has all the links to mods. To get nice prints, I had to:

1. Fix the z-banding with a printed coupler . This made the biggest difference. You can also order an adapter , but I don’t know the quality.
   
2. Get stable temps by adjusting your PIDs. I can just give you mine if you’re interested.
   
3. Cool the main board to stop the extruder motor from conking out. The part is also on Thingiverse .
   
   You may not have to do all these things, but my printer was a train wreck.
   
   I also put in an E3D v6 hot end for $15 off Amazon and designed a double fan to cool it. You may not need that, but the extra cooling certainly helps with small parts.
   
   I’ll upload some pics of print quality later. I have to head to work now.

I've done a bunch of 1 gallon all-grain batches (and a few 5 gallon extract batches) and want to try my luck with 2.5 gallon all-grain. I bought a 5 gal cooler and a ball valve kit, but would kind of like to swap out the barb on the ball valve for cam lock fittings to make it easier to clean.

What cam lock fittings are best for this type of setup? I'm guessing the "D Style" from looking here but it's a complete guess.

wrenches wouldnt matter when the fastenings are thumb tightening with diamond cut for grip. the correct question is no gloves, but it wouldn't have mattered. I'm never gonna have to debug like that ever again so it won't matter lol. these are the hoses i was using. http://smile.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-29986-Compact-Valve/dp/B0036UK0UQ/ref=sr_1_34?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419985326&sr=1-34&keywords=yellow+jacket. When the ball valve isn't worn out it should hold vacuum well enough to seal the system with directly and i haven't had issues with them wearing out yet. they're fairly easy to put on and off, but a couple of the ones i have weren't being so easy. The part that I spent the most time fucking with was one of these. you'll see theres a female end at the opposite end of the valve and this is what did most of the damage, because if you don't hold it up perfectly straight then the "nut" on the end of the hose won't spin easily or at all due to metal on metal friction. Replacing these things with individual valves and my own T adapters in a couple locations (still using them in others) where i should have been using a different design anyways cause I needed more valves and now it's fine. I'm running a modified Bhogart extractor design with some additions to allow for manifold bypass for direct butane injection and a bunch of other valve additions to allow me to disassemble the system and open sections of it while keeping the rest of it at vacuum, before then being able to pull it to vacuum again.

I would advise that you look into getting Premiere Pro for your video editing (it's my personal favourite), or maybe just something as simple as Windows Movie Maker if you are unsure about getting a bigger program.

As for your recording, check out FRAPS or Bandicam for PC recordings.
For console, check out any capture card or HDPVR (High Definition Personal Video Recorder).

My friend has one of these which he uses to record from his and the result is a good quality video.

For your voice recordings, take a look at Audacity which is a good free program for microphone recordings, although you will need a microphone for your computer.

Hit me up if you'll like any more help!

Not really on the pump... They are reasonably priced, around $100 for a generic one on Amazon... The valve is internal, and works automatically based on internal pressure as resistance rises. I'm not sure there would be an external add on, but if there were, it would almost certainly be more expensive than a replacement pump.

I bought my 5x12 cylinder on Amazon for $155 Check this one out:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CWJSUO/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

It takes a lot of looking, searching and sorting through things, but you can find deals and keep costs down.

I wanted to go bigger on the cylinder, but ultimately decided that from what I've read & saw on various youtube videos that a 5" 28 ton will do everything I want so pulled the trigger on that cylinder & hopefully my build will start this weekend or next!

Good luck!

I would stay away from that starter kit. Not because its bad per se but its not worth 180 bucks. And I prefer plastic buckets over glass carboys. If you want you can convert a cooler to a mash tun but I would start with BIAB and you then can increase the complexity of your system as you see fit.


Here is my recommendation of equipment. I am function over form driven when selecting my gear. I find that these items serve their purpose at a reasonable price and are of good quality and unless you want to start doing 15 gallon batches they should serve you well.

Starter Kit

KAB4 Burner

44qt Pot with basket

Ball Valve for Kettle

Thermometer

Bag for BIAB

Just an x machine shop foreman messing around on my hobby time. If you want a custom machine and don’t want to pay upwards of $1000 contact me and we’ll talk. This unit runs $300-$550 and can handle 3”x3” -4”x6”. This can be used with a harbor freight 8 ton bottle jack or can be simply swapped for a cylinder and hydraulic hand pump. This unit your looking at is a 2.75”x3” platen setup for a 8 ton bottle. And is $300 + shipping to US states only. This is the smallest platen design I have.



Here’s a link of the $75 pid build

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra6Dn9tq7ks


Here’s a link to the 8ton

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-hydraulic-bottle-jack-96648.html

Here’s a cylinder

https://www.amazon.com/stroke-Hydraulic-Cylinder-Lifting-YG-1050/dp/B00XKCXPOI/ref=rtpb_3/133-1641262-1548304?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XKCXPOI&pd_rd_r=b41c9e31-aa9c-49cf-9d11-cdea7c031998&pd_rd_w=iPupi&pd_rd_wg=XIOHJ&pf_rd_p=1bcffe98-d472-4d3e-9788-8a286d2f9d88&pf_rd_r=3M22QDFM9GDNP0X8YXEN&psc=1&refRID=3M22QDFM9GDNP0X8YXEN


Here’s a gauged hand pump from dabpress

https://www.dabpress.com/products/dabpress-dp-cp390-hydraulic-hand-pump-well-paired-with-dp-hr10t35-mini-rosin-press?variant=12395302912073


Here’s a built pid from dabpress

https://www.dabpress.com/collections/rosin-accessories/products/dp-tc04r165?variant=12086243754057


There are many options and all of my presses are designed to be enjoyable to operate and maximize yields without overworking your hydraulics.


Or you could do all the work and build this press ground up with a few dimensions. I will give dimensions if you need. Just dm as it’s easier to keep track of builds.

I have the pot you referenced in the post and KAB4 burner that another poster recommended.

Pot is decent, but you can get better one. I've used it for a year so far, got a bit of a ding on a bottom, but it's ok. It's not super thick, but I guess it makes it lighter. What I would want in a pot is the markings for how much water is there. Another thing is having a valve there to drain the wort, built-in thermometer is nice too, i do BIAB though, so thermometer sticking out can potentially damage the brew bag. The valve you can buy yourself and drill a hole/install it - something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Stuff-SS-WV2-Stainless/dp/B00420WMUU/

The burner is good, I converted it to natural gas so I don't need to buy propane and worry about it running out in the middle of brewday.

Just make sure you get the one with the DI. The replacement cartridges are pretty reasonable as well, and my lps sells them as well as amazon. I have heard nothing bad about that system. My TDS from the tap is 144, and is zero after that system.

Here is the TDS monitor for cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EHAZGW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a float valve if you need one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113UJOOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stand by:

Ball Valve

False Bottom

10 gallon cooler

False Bottom - Valve adapter

Please shop around. I have no doubt you could get some of this stuff for cheaper. I was restricted in that my only form of currency was Amazon gift cards. Especially the adapter could be built / constructed for much cheaper than I paid.

Additionally, instead of the false bottom / adapter, one could simply employ a Bazooka Screen instead of a false bottom, I have just read that false bottoms are more effective and less prone to problems.


DISCLAIMER - Always do your own research and make sure the parts that you are buying are all compatible and properly sized, etc. etc.

Having said that, the parts I listed above are exactly what I ordered and all fit together perfectly, I just needed to go out and buy a female coupler (to attach the valve to the hose from the false bottom) and a washer (per the included instructions with the valve, which had a additional washer for my configuration).

18 Cents with Amazon Prime shipping. This is an interesting contest :D

If I win I'd prefer a gift card as I'm saving for some video games, but if you'd rather buy a physical item, I do have some blu rays on my lists less than $5 :)

Yeah, there's a need for a more cost effective solution to this issue. I sprung for 1 cask widge just so I could ferment and dry hop loose in kegs. I would love to have a few more, but not for $40/each. Seems like the necessary pieces would be...

1. Float
   
   
2. Screened intake
   
   
3. Tubing
   I think #2 may be the hardest to come up with as an off-the-shelf DIY solution.
   
   Maybe this thing can be rigged up into something workable?

Yes, cooler as a mash tun. My setup is:

Ball valve (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFpqDb0236QSQ)

Coleman 48qt cooler
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coleman-48-Qt-Performance-Marine-Cooler-3000003702/206851499

Silicon tubing for transfer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079X3SCFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UGpqDb43MYVWT

Custom Wilser Brew Bag
https://biabbags.webs.com/

I did not bother with insulating the lid of the cooler. I simply place a long piece of aluminum foil down onto the mash. Works perfectly.

That is one but I would just buy one, they are pretty cheap.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.cAzCbFNJHW4Z

Yep! You can tell because it has the valve at either end and a handful of bleeders. It looks like a watts one, though i cant find a model that looks exactly like it. It's likely old and could not be working proper, especially if the system sat for a long time without running.

I think you're on the right track. I've been searching for mounting block covers for siding and came across this.

I'm not 100% sure it will work simply bc of the position of the existing box and the way that cover is designed to fit over the siding. Seems like the current junction box wouldn't be centered under the cover. But at least I feel like I'm on the right track.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Depending on the size of your landscape and given your climate, you might be needing something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/RomoTech-Horizontal-Polyethylene-Reservoir-Gallon/dp/B01BFC5Q9Q/

I always encourage folks before going down this road to do a proper analysis of their watering needs. Resources on line are abundant and you can start with your local ag extension and the Irrigation Association for information about how to do the math. Water requirements vary by season, by soil type, and by plant. For example, a mature fruit tree can require as much as 35 gallons of water per day, or more in severe weather conditions (hotter, drier, windier).

I haven't heard of a T3, who makes it? One of the best diffusers I've seen is the Xtava Black Orchid for $15. I got a cheap pipe coupler here to adapt it to a Devacurl dryer.

I built one and it was pretty easy and not very expensive considering. Warning: The following instructions are probably dangerous. This is what I did, and it's to demonstrate how simple it was to make.

1. Get a 10 gallon pot with a steamer basket.
   
2. Drill one or two 1" holes across from each other with a hole saw in the bottom of the pot, depending on how many elements you're putting in. Put some scrap wood inside the pot while drilling for support. One hole if you're doing it for 220, two for if you only have 110.
   
3. Drill another hole for the bulkhead valve.
   
4. Attach your electric elements. If you have 220. If you have 110.
   
5. Assemble everything.
   
6. Wire up the heating elements with some heavy duty wire. I covered the whole element backside with j b weld so that it won't short out.
   
7. Put some GFCI plugs on there to be extra sure.
   
   It's maybe two hundred bucks and when combined with an inkbird it makes biab a breeze.

Buy a cheap HDMI switch if you want to switch between HDMI sources. It is entirely standalone and doesn't require a RPi or anything else.

You'll need something like this Hauppauge box plugged into your PC and just have a HDMI switch before it. They claim Linux drivers exist for it but you'll have to investigate how easy it is to get it running on a RPi.

There are cheap standalone HDMI encoders available such as this HDMI over IP transmitter or this Android settop box but they all require some work to get running properly. You're going to have to write significant amounts of code to get it all hooked up properly.

If you do want to capture a HDMI stream then you'll need to strip off HDCP first and then split the connection so one goes to your TV and one goes to the HDMI encoder box. You don't want to do encode then decode because it is lossy encoding and the latency will drive you nuts if trying to play on your PS4. The Hauppauge box claims it has a zero latency passthrough connection so you don't need to split it for that.

Hi. They make lamp mounting kits for vinyl siding.

Builders Edge 130110006001 Surface Block 001, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NT7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AV9RAbVRZCPWS


There are different colors. Find one that has the right amount of steps for your type of siding.
Use a outdoor silicon to seal around the edges and there are foam pads you can use between the junction box to the siding cover plate. Hopefully they put a junction box in there, the lamp mount attaches onto the box. If they didn’t, install an outdoor box in there too.

Here is another
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W6ZOCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4V9RAbFQ3P1Z4

Hope that helps. Turn off the breaker before wiring.

You need a bulkhead fitting, 1/2" ball valve, 1/2" ID hose barb, (optional) some sort of 1/2" FPT street elbow or other intake.

You can get the whole assembly for $20.89 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HomeBrewStuff-Stainless-Weldless-Home-Brew/dp/B00420WMUU/). If you buy it piecemeal, I recommend the True Weldless bulkhead fitting at brewhardware.com.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00420WMUU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-10-Gal-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809

http://www.northernbrewer.com/universal-false-bottom

exactly what I have, works perfectly

The $40 is worth it to get a good silicone o-ring, washer, and SS parts, in my opinion. I got this one and I'm happy with it. I just don't think you'll save enough to make up for having inferior stuff.

You can look into stainless. Can't go wrong with 304 stainless. Also since this is all pre-boil sanitation is that big of a concern. Mine was stainless. Paid a little more but for the piece of mind it is nice.

I believe this is the one I got.
HomeBrewStuff 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Bulkhead For Home Brew Kettle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7yz6wbRPCZK53

Great. I was going to add a no weld ball valve to it as well.

edit: this one actually: http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=22WSWWQDSQRRM&coliid=I193MJG09G8FHZ

We used a weldless valve for the boil kettle: 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Buldhead and we used this video to make the counter flow chiller.

I did ice baths for a full year prior to making all this equipment. While I made great beer, I was tired of adding those extra hours to my brew day so I built this chiller. It's seriously amazing. I was able to empty 6 gallons of beer into my carboy and have it cooled to pitching temperature in about 10-15 minutes.

(And sorry for some of the potato quality or motion blur photos. I'm not a professional!)

I picked up a WinWare aluminum boiling pot for $40 last year, drilled a hole in it (I think that the bit was $20) and installed a $20 valve. Since purchasing it, I've used the bit for two valves, a thermometer, and two sightglass installs.

Edit: The pot

The Bit

The valve

Holiday Deal Valve Alternative

You might be able to find better deals on Cyber Monday, though.


All you need is a drill gun and dish soap (the soap is a nice lubricant so you don't wear the bit down quickly)

Heres an item for 18 cents (including free prime shipping)

Cheap!

Sure thing! Here's a list of the main equipment:

Lighting - Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights

Light Risers - OEM FINNEX LIGHT RISERS FITS PLANTED+, RAY2, FUGERAY, ETC.

Filter - EHEIM Classic 250

Co2 - Tank / Diffuser / Drop Checker

Heater - EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater

Addon - Finnex Breeder Box with Light

It is possible to capture video from an iPhone or Android using a video capture device, and something like an MHL to HDMI adapter.

The exact versions you use will depend on what you want to spend, the devices you want to use them on (especially considering the compatibility of your mobile device). Obviously this means some hardware cost, but it might be worth considering in the future if you wanted to branch into mobile games.

these have a 0.15 minimum :P

unforetunetely the cheapest item with free shiping is this

ASSASSIN

Maybe this is cheap enough wfor you?

Oh, and with free shipping included, this one

Prefer silicone tubing over vinyl (aka PVC). A lot of the vinyl tubing found in hardware stores contains lead and isn't food-grade.

I bought this tubing for a gravity feed system with my Sawyer Squeeze, and am quite happy with it: Amazon Link

Be sure you get the correct inner diameter, the fittings for my Sawyer are 1/4 inch, but I know some hydration systems use 3/8.

It's $230. Not the cheapest IoT device but it's built rock solid.

There are cheaper ones that try to spin the valve externally but I did't feel confident in them.

Here's the link for Leak Gopher:
https://www.amazon.com/Leak-Intel-Certified-LIFETIME-WARRANTY/dp/B01LE9OD3A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504743267&sr=8-2&keywords=leak+gopher+z-wave+valve+control

Honestly, your title needs to be more specific. If you're asking how to get the footage from the PS3 onto a computer, most people use (and I myself do the same) a PVR of some kind.

Most people I know use some form of a Hauppauge HD PVR, the one linked is a "specific" gaming one.

The PS3 has a cable to the PVR and from there it has 2 cables. One to the TV and one to the computer. Think of it as a crossroads which splits the image and sounds into 2 directions.

Then the inbuilt software records it onto your computer and you can chuck it into some video editing software and you're done.

This is what I ended up using and seems to be working well:
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m4N2AbMH6HZM7

That might be tough, but look into something like these; https://www.amazon.com/Dosing-Pump12V-Peristaltic-Aquarium-Analytical/dp/B01HRPKBAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492120227&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=peristaltic+pump&psc=1

My plumbing in the cooler sits pretty flush with the inner wall. Basically the only thing exposed on the inner wall is the nut.

Printed couplings are prone to slipping which means the Z axis doesn't rise(or lower) the correct amount. You're better off buying a real coupling for a few dollars.

That's actually a Bayou Classic, pretty cheap, nothing special.

Ball valve:

http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330884675&sr=8-1

Themometer:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/weld-b-gone-thermothingy-2.html

with:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-npt-brewmometer-bi-metal-thermometer-w-adjustable-face-weldless.html

sight:
http://www.brewhardware.com/wlsightglass/49-weldless-sight-glass-kit

The key was 3-in-1 oil with a stepped drill bit.

my kit was 130 on amazon has a hookup for keurig hookup https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-Plastic-Fitting-Adjustable-Refrigerator/dp/B01MU6YQGA/ref=sr_1_55?crid=27MN1TVZRKKIK&keywords=float+valve&qid=1573017139&sprefix=float%2Caps%2C265&sr=8-55

fridge water with a float

https://www.amazon.com/AquaLutio-Premium-Filtration-Drinking-Designer/dp/B01HFH2UHG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2JU6U38SMSNZ8&keywords=ro+water+filter+system&qid=1573016804&sprefix=ro+%2Caps%2C331&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRFFYVVJYQTJQNTgyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU3NjU3M0xPWVBRSUJIQUxLWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDgyMjg4MzY2TlAxUkhERkozTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Two-way-Universal-Check-Valve/dp/B004Q0GOJQ

[This is the cheapest I can find (prime shipping)] (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B007A5XM3K/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/), I would like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/BT00DC6QU4/gcrnsts?ie=UTF8&ref_=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp).

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Saim-Stroke-Single-Pneumatic-Cylinder/dp/B06WGVLRB1/ref=pd_sbs_504_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06WGVLRB1&pd_rd_r=VS6G6H6DPZ061T4F8K7S&pd_rd_w=KWtde&pd_rd_wg=jcsqU&psc=1&refRID=VS6G6H6DPZ061T4F8K7S ?

I'm just used to pneumatic springs that require a compressor, not sure how to differentiate.

This one only opens if it receives power. You can hook it up to a z-wave controller and trigger it that way:"...Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed..." Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4"


... or you can get one with the z-wave controller: Z-Wave 3/4" Valve Water Control

• I haven't used any of this so I can't tell you how well it works

I ordered this one about a year ago and have used it probably about 20 times since then. I love this pot and plan on installing a weld-less ball valve on it this weekend. Like what kds1398 said, the main downside is the size if you don't have a valve because once you get 7.5 gallons of wort in it she can get heavy. The only other really minor negative I can think of is that a lot of gunk and stuff gets caught and hidden under the little lip near the top, you just have to be careful when cleaning it but it's really no big deal. I would definitely buy this pot again.

I had an issue with z-banding on my MPSM V2. I ended up buying a flexible z-coupler and installed it, completely fixed the issue. Link is below. It replaces the stock z-coupler which inherently has flaws due to the manufacturing process. You’ll have to find the coupler that fits your z-axis rod though before you buy.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here is the Amazon link I used.

I've tried everything to get rid of this ridge pattern, every 4.3mm or so. It happens along the X-axis (both sides) of a lithophane box, but not the Y-axis. I tried both .1325 and .175mm height. The litho is 115x115mm. The belts appear tight. I replaced the base coupling with this flexible coupling: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w5j2CbQ95ZEE4. I replaced the heat break and nozzle. The hot end temperature looks stable at 200C, and same for bed temperature at 65C. The extruder is stock, but I dont see how it would create a cyclical pattern on one axis only. The repetitive pattern suggests a mechanical problem. Also, it appears the grooves are facing one direction in that what is a groove on one side of the wall is a protrusion on the other.

I have a second MPSM, where the lithophane prints without ridges with the same Cura profile.

I have no idea what is happening. Help.

Look in craigslist, Hit yard sales for the water cooler or Chest Cooler and a Stainless Steel Valve

If you look at the product you will see it is commonly bought with [this ball valve] (http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=pd_bxgy_k_img_z). Just remove the old valve (it is nylon) and put this in its place. Then connect the screen inside.

$.18 with Prime that is if Prime is allowed.

Yes.. that is eighteen cents. Should I win.. might I nudge you twards my MP3 list? I'm trying to go legit

This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/Builders-Edge-130110006001-Octagon-Mounting/dp/B0041NT7D8/ref=asc_df_B0041NT7D8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097951144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17773540549136269974&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002254&hvtargid=pla-403882341727&psc=1

Minimum Setup is only 3 items

Tank

regulator

Diffuser

I wouldn't get used hardware. I'm just too "safe" I guess.

I did just find out that there are other capture devices that don't use HDMI-input. I don't have time to have a proper look now, but this appears to connect to a PC through USB. Any idea on the performance for this sort of device in comparison?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hauppauge-PVR-Gaming-Edition-Passthrough/dp/B0092P47GW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1383085398&sr=8-6&keywords=capture+card

This is prolly cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113UJOOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tAm0DbPTPC7F8

the shaft of the z motor is 3mm and the threaded rod is 4mm
the coupler they use is 4mm on both sides so the z motor shaft is pushed to the side inside the coupler so the center axis of the motor is off .5mm from the center axis of the threaded rod. Imagine putting a drill bit in a drill off-center of the chuck, the bit would wobble around in a circle. The is what the threaded rod does and pushes on the gantry every revolution. You should have horizontal stripes in the sides of your prints that coincide with the threads of the threaded rod. Since this is my first printer, I thought those were layer lines. upon closer inspection I realized the layers are much thinner and they were shifting back and fourth. I replace the coupler with one of these and it fixed the issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW What you need to look for in a coupler is that it is 3mm on one side and 4mm on the other. Now that I have fixed that , I can now see the vertical lines in my prints that were masked by the horizontal lines. It is probably due to the smooth side of the y belt running on the plastic toothed pulleys.

https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Stuff-SS-WV2-Stainless/dp/B00420WMUU

the shank might not be long enough for a cooler. measure before you buy

Having a hard time getting a perfect seal with my new 5 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. I've tried numerous o-rings and washers that always result in a drip every few seconds. This usually stops after I dump in the grain, but it's just really annoying. Using this ball valve setup

Any help with this one? Cheers!

I had the same problem. This fixed mine.

2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x2IPDb932DYNE

• $51 Stock Pot
  
• $50 Igloo 10 Gallon Cooler
  
• $16 Ball Valve and Bulkhead
  
• $30 Brew Bag
  
  

1. Heat water in the stock pot on your kitchen stove.
   
2. Dump water into the cooler mash tun.
   
3. Drop the bag in.
   
4. Dump the grains in and stir.
   
5. Wait an hour.
   
6. Drain through the valve into your kettle.
   
7. Add more hot water as it drains.
   
8. Lift the bag and let the grains drain.
   
9. Continue your brew as normal.
   
   I'm assuming you already have a kettle, burner, brew paddle, and thermometer. Also assuming you have good water. You will have to buy crushed grain until you get your own grain mill. The ball valve can be upgraded with a cam lock quick disconnect and tube. I like to mash on my kitchen counter, so I have to move the kettle outside for the boil and a platform dolly is a big help with that.

Have you ever seen a wedge block for vinyl siding?:

https://www.amazon.com/Builders-Edge-130110006001-Surface-Block/dp/B0041NT7D8

I started with a 20 gallon Winware Aluminium kettle, a custom bag , ball valve, a clip on thermometer, and a couple of Aquatainers for no chill. I miss the simplicity of that setup.

So I finally put my mash tun together last weekend. I hit a few small snags that I should have seen ahead of time based on reviews of the spigot I bought!

Items

• $20 Spigot
  
• $3 Coupling
  
• $8 Bazooka Screen
  
• $45 Cooler
  
  Total Cost: $76
  
  Time to assemble: 15 minutes +- 5 minutes for testing the seal
  
  Main suggestion - get either a false bottom or one of the short bazooka screens. The long bazooka screen is a pain to work with -- it barely fits in the cooler. I also heard there are spigots you can buy that come with a female connector so you wouldn't have to buy the coupling.
  
  Take a close look at the instructions for the spigot - it spells out how to put it together correctly but the diagram was super confusing to me for some reason.
  
  My primary frustration was that none of my local hardware stores had the coupling so I had to get and wait for it from Amazon. Lame!