(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best jobber drill bits

Wiki entry on safe-cracking...

Best method: Drill, baby, drill. You will need a serious drill/bit but you might be able to rent one at a specialized hardware store/buy one with a money-back guarantee, etc and return it when done.

Seems to be what you really want to do is drill a small hole, and then use a endoscope/borescope to see if there's anything in there worth the trouble.

Once you find tons of money/gold/etc., feel free to then invest a little more money on a drill that can make the hole bigger.

If you have to get into it quickly, well...you aren't going to get into it quickly and not ruin the contents.

You'll need about twenty or thirty of these just to be safe.

And you'll want a drill like this...ten amps should be sufficient.

You'll want to keep switching the bits out every so often, even if they don't break, they'll dull quickly.

Supplies:

11PCS Harry Potter Mini Magic Metal Wands Set for Kids Cosplay Magical Wand Stick Necklace Wands Toy Kit with Keychain
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGQ2ST3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKElDbP5TPPSD

Pack of 12, 5/64-Inch Titanium Nitride Coated Drill Bit, High Speed Steel, Jobber Length, for Metal, Plastic, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRMHZ46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yLElDbXWP2F5M

DRILLFORCE HSS General Purpose Heavy Duty Cobalt Jobber Length Twist Drill Bits Size 1/16 with 10pcs in Plastic Bag, ideal for drilling on mild steel, copper, Aluminum, Zinc alloy etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXY8QAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pMElDbJ7E9WYS

MEKO High Precision Replacement... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016X4QJWE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Step 1: use metal grinder to make a flat surface.


Step 2: use the 1/16” cobalt drill bit to start (this is just for accuracy) a hole in the center of the tip- follow it up with the 5/64” and drill to 1/4 to 1/2”. Depth can vary.


Step 3: insert metal plastic tips and if need be gently tap with a hammer. I use a little super glue for added hold but it seems like overkill.


There is some trial and error. So don’t worry if you make a mistake, you can grind it a little more and start over.

Good luck and happy hunting!



PS: If you want me to make them for you I will ship within the US only (sorry!) for flat rate of $7.50 regardless of how many you want.

I charge $25 for 1, $45 for 2 and $60 for 3.

Entire sets can be negotiated but that will take time as this is just a hobby for me. Take care!

You're awesome for taking the time to drill drainage holes in your thrifted planters. Hi-five!

I try to do the same thing (with mixed success). One thing that might help is a set of glass/tile drill bits. I got a set of similar bits for about twice that price at my hardware store, and they make it a lot easier to drill drainage holes into cups/pots/bowls without cracking them.

Hope that helps!

PS: What an adorable baby plant!!

Ok, this stuff doesn't glue together any better then normal mini plastics. You put any strain on the piece and it'll pop right off. So here's the trick. I do this for all minis (metal, plastic, printed, etc) because super glue isn't reliable with tiny surfaces. It broke easy when it was melted together, why will glue be any different?

Drill a hole in each end, and cut a piece of rod to fit in both holes. So the rod is the length of both holes added together. Then put that piece of rod in one hole and slide the other piece over the rod. If it fits well, glue them all together. The rod will hold the two bits together and strengthen the break point.

Tiny drills https://www.amazon.com/TG888-Micro-Twist-Pieces-Aluminum/dp/B07HXVBV9K/ref=asc_df_B07HXVBV9K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344024281175&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4397548605641867076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027286&hvtargid=pla-728156490650&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69357499375&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344024281175&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4397548605641867076&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027286&hvtargid=pla-728156490650

Thin metal Rods. Just find something narrow enough that'll fit. You'll use one pack of these for this for years.

https://www.amazon.com/Rod-32-12-Aluminum-Carded/dp/B00G6J6GDO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ks+metal+rod&qid=1562454542&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Might want to practice on a spare bolt, especially depending on how much experience you have drilling steel.

You'll want a very sharp tip, a lot a pressure, and as slow a speed as your drill will do because you don't want to work harden the steel by heating it up. For that reason pull out and pause a lot too, and again use plenty of cutting fluid, or at least WD40 or motor oil.

If you're making powder or not cutting at all you need more pressure and/or less speed. If you're getting ribbons of metal coming out that's correct. Cobalt might be better than HSS in case you end up work hardening it a bit, but carbide will probably snap from the pressure in a hand drill because it's more brittle. Definitely use a center punch so the bit doesn't dance at the beginning.

Can maybe use a piece of tubing or just a cut up pen tube or marker body to protect the thread, and a tape wrap on the drill bit can be used to control depth.

If you can get a reverse twist drill you might be able to prevent over tightening the bolt by drilling it, or even just turn it out if it jams.

This looks like a good set with matching extractors. There are cheaper ones, but with mixed reviews due to sharpness or not actually being cobalt.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Hog-Spiral-Extractor-Handed/dp/B07SSCNSHP/

That looks amazing. You did a great job. I love your fabric choice.

Also, if you think 1/16" drill bits are small, you should check out micro drill bits. One use for them is for drilling small holes on PCBs. These on Amazon are metric and go from 1.3mm down to 0.3mm. For reference, 1/16" is about 1.5mm.

I have a pack of costco bits right now. I assume they are TiN. They come with several of each size. So like 10 1/2 and like 40 1/16 and every size in-between. This is the closest thing I could find online. I am using a mechanics high speed air drill. Similar to this but branded as Cornwell.

I do have speciality bits, such as reverse irwins. Those are amazing. Just guess I should consider buying a set of quality instead of quantity.

I also just bought a drill press. I only had air and battery drills. I guess a good old drill press is finally needed.

The tag bases are 32mm exactly (4 studs). Not the OP but I used A 1 3/8ths" bit which comes out at 35mm. It gives a little slack but it's much easier to find than 32mm if you're in the U.S (I had it already a part of a set)

To drill the flat bottom holes you need a type of bit called a Forstner bit. You can use them with a handheld drill but a drill press will get you much better results.

Here's a 32mm bit on Amazon for $5.37 (add-on item shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G4MVKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MRmlzbB0EZ1CD'

Next day edit to add: You might not want to buy a 32mm bit as it'll give you a tight fit on the bases which won't make it easy to use. Amazon has a 33mm bit for $8-ish.
Here's the quick-and-dirty holder I made from a plywood scrap: http://imgur.com/yR4KEVy
Here's the space around the tag base with the 1-3/8" drill: http://imgur.com/CApTYF2

I find it pretty easy. Definately easier than perfboard for anything larger than a few components imho. Takes a little practise, mostly trial and error getting the iron temperature and timing right for the toner transfer. I find that the higher end of the wool setting, and about 90 seconds of pressure works well for me. Yes you need a laser printer if using the toner transfer technique, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. You also need some small drill bits. You can buy a kit from Amazon for cheap. I use a rotary tool because I don't have a drill press and hand drill is a bit heavy and I was breaking a lot of bits.

As for toxicity, it depends what you're using. Ferric chloride is most common (it's hydrochloric acid and iron) but there are other options. Gloves and eye protection are a must, as well as ventilation. You can neutralize it with a base, but the copper is toxic to the environment so you don't want to flush it either way. Here's the SDS for it.

This article I found very helpful

I've been hugely impressed with all the Dewalt impact ready accessories I've used so it wouldn't surprise me if their drill-taps are the best out there. The impact ready hole saws and step drills are incredible also.

The other rainy day I was contemplating how to organize my drill accessories drawer with dividers.

It brought to my attention the sad shape of my older twist drill bit indexes. I always start out with good intentions of keeping up with all the drill bits, but over time I had broke or misplaced about 1/2 of the drill bits. I suppose most of yall can relate.

So I was looking around to buy me a new complete set, when I stumbled across the KISS Drill Bit System.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqUHmH_kL94

You can get it loaded with new bits of unknown quality for $189.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-SYSTEM-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHETZI

Which is about what I was prepared to spend on a good new set.

But then I sat there and stared at those 3 old indexes missing 1/2 the bits, and decided to just order the empty plastic organizer.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-INDEX-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHLZ7S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NF2HD1T1GKAH7VRZYCX3

So when it came I dumped all my drill bits out on the desk and had my sharp eyed daughters go through them and put them in the right holes, and then paint them to match the color coded system.

Turns out I only had to buy about $30 worth of individual ( Drill America) jobber length bits to have at least 2 of every size.

https://drillsandcutters.com/jobber-drills/

..... worked out pretty good. Now even my old eyes can find the right bit without having to cut myself prying it out of the metal indexes.

I still have to figure out how to organize the remaining stuff in the drawer though. I'm open for suggestions on that.

I was given a set of these at my old job. I thought they where pretty awesome. Right now I just use whatever Fastenal stocks for us, which seem pretty decent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OBILGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RARXBbBVD50B8

Amazon is the way I normally go...

Dirt cheap (and probably shitty): https://www.amazon.ca/TITANIUM-COATED-DRILL-METAL-PLASTIC/dp/B00O3M81CA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

Better: https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-73106ZR-32-Inch-Turbomax-12-Pack/dp/B00ALTDZ02/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243213&sr=8-19&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

Also good: https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-TI2133-Titanium-Jobber-32-Inch/dp/B000AX9G3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-2&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

I'm curious about these: I've used cobalt before and been impressed when working with hardened steel: https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DWA1206-32-Inch-Industrial-Cobalt/dp/B00SOU4A3Q/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521243188&sr=8-7&keywords=3%2F32+drill+bit

If you're doing 1000, they make an adapter for an angle grinder that probably cuts the drill time by 75%. Otherwise you're using a bit and a drill and based on the logs i've done, you're looking at probably 4-6 hours of actual time for the whole process (breaks to charge batteries, heat up wax, etc).

You've got to drill 1k holes
Put plugs in 1k holes
Hammer 1k plugs in
Seal 1k plugs with wax

Doing it on a whole fresh blowdown like this is a great idea though, esp if you're using a single type of fungi. I usually do 3-4 ft log lengths and have 10-12 varieties going at once. It's also cheaper in the long run to skip plugs and just use sawdust spawn instead if you're doing it in volume.

For anyone interested, the drill chuck adapter for the angle grinder can be found here:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PNPLDS/?coliid=I21LZ235DEB8TY&colid=Y9Z91VYYJ5T9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This is a quality bit, just be sure to get the right one.
https://www.amazon.com/North-Spore-Mushroom-8-5mm-Drill/dp/B0771PXQL8/ref=pd_cp_328_3/134-5251343-3783548?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0771PXQL8&pd_rd_r=b7e14644-0295-4bd1-b7a5-105742aab38c&pd_rd_w=zkfi5&pd_rd_wg=idY6n&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=ZXB1KHK63CED6C84FZGE&psc=1&refRID=ZXB1KHK63CED6C84FZGE

massively increases the speed that you drill holes at, just buy a good bit or 3 or 4 cheap ones for that many holes...as the wood will do a number on poorly tempered steel.

The suggestions here are good, I would just add: get self-centering drill bits. They'll save you a ton of headaches.

(FYI, I have these, but I'm sure there are other equally good options: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CC2430-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Assortment/dp/B0000TZX1M)

Other than making sure you get the right drill bit, The key is to drill on soft earth, it seems to help against breakage. I set the bowl or whatever I am drilling into on my grass and I haven't lost any thrift store finds yet! (fingers crossed)

They already do. It's how I got the idea. Thanks though! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVHLZ7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZY0kDbVW12V96

Addendum: Thomas & Betts zipties, Legrand Conduit, Surge protector w. long cord, Echogear mount, DeWalt 20v cordless drill, 2-inch hole saw, DeWalt Bits, you might need an HDMI switcher if your TV has limited ports, short ethernet cables for the modem, router, and game consoles since they will sit in view on the shelf. Maybe a short coaxial jumper cable depending on how far the existing one can reach up the wall.

When you affix the Legrand conduits, have one open to the left and the other to the right. It leaves them easier to open in the future. The conduit on the right is the one through which we ran the power cord for the surge strip. We spaced the segment (gap) at that point by about two inches so that the power cords coming down from the electronics could exit and plug into the surge.

Favorite Economy cobalt bits

The bits I recommend if you can afford $70

Buy a glass drillbit at home depot. That will run you a few bucks. Use the glass drillbit with yiur drill and presto! perfect hole. Find a downstem and add that. If you're lazy and don't want to have to pull the bowl you can make the dowstem and the bowl the same piece and add a shottie on the back. http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=134365945http://www.bongoutlet.ca/bong-slider-p-444.html?osCsid=7ebfba2110d8735b9613796f77cec1470&sr=8-5&keywords=glass+drill+bit glass drillbit buy a downstem at a headshop and use it.

You can get sets of carbide PCB drills with a 1/8" shank far cheaper than a decent micro chuck.

I left it un-trimmed so the edges provide a bit of proof that I actually did it! I have yet to drill my pads and vias, but I use this PCB Drill Bit set with a Dremel mounted in a Dremel drill press.

A glass bit is a normal household tool. They are not very expensive and you can drill lots of holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395952006&sr=8-2&keywords=drill+bit+glass

I have mounted things into 3/4" marble at work. Use a flame-tip tile drill bit to make a hole then depending on the weight of the blinds (do not do this for heavy roller blinds or roman shades) use a drywall anchor in the hole or use a washer and pass the screw right through the stone and into the window frame.