Reddit mentions: The best twist drill bits

Cool stuff!

Here's one thing- when stacking them improves the sound, I'm wondering if that's just due to having more resonant coupled mass. Try not stacking them but instead put something heavy and rigid (old HDDs, cordless drill battery, a brick, etc) on top of the drives. See if you get a similar effect. Also try putting something heavy on top of the stack...
By resonant coupled mass I mean material that gets the vibrations of the drive transferred to it, and thus helps with putting those vibrations into the air. Thus bolting the drives down to the board will help a lot. But let's come back to that.

-----

To build your box, you really only need a couple of tools and parts, which I'll link you to now.
Cordless Drill
Cheap Drill Bits
Circular Saw (a jigsaw is also OK)
Set of 4 clamps
Carpenter's Square
Angle Brackets
Wood Screws (probably want some 1/2 inch screws too for the brackets)
A piece of 1x2 wood moulding or similar
A piece of quality 1/2" plywood or MDF
Feel free to substitute whatever's on offer at your local big box home improvement store, it's the concepts that matter not the specific models of things. With that stuff you can build almost anything, your little box will be a snap.

The key with all that- use two of the clamps to clamp the board you're cutting down to the table. Then use the other two clamps to clamp a 2-4' piece of moulding down to the board. The moulding then serves two purposes: Along with the square and a pencil, it lets you draw a very straight and very long line along where you want to cut, and then when you move the molding back a bit (by the exact distance between the edge of the saw's skid plate and the sawblade), it forms a guide for the edge of the circular saw skid plate to slide against, giving you a perfectly straight cut even from a handheld saw.
Note: always cut with the saw facing away from you or your body, and keep your fingers away from the path of the blade! Let the tool do the cutting, don't force it. When you drill a hole for a screw, pick the drill bit that's as wide as the screw shaft (not the screw teeth).

I suggest using more angle brackets to rigidly mount the floppy drives to the casing itself. Obviously brackets that have the hole in a place which holds the drive flush against the casing are preferred. Angle brackets come in all different sizes, and you can always just drill another hole through the bracket if you need to. A larger angle bracket could hold both the upper and lower drive. Or for a stack of two drives, mount one to the inside of the main casing, and the other to the outside of the HDD casing.

-----

Now back on audio. A box like you designed might really help, especially if the back is closed as you're creating a cavity which focuses all the sound forward.

However you should also get a better microphone. If as you say it sounds great in person, well, that isn't being captured well on your video. The video is seriously lacking in bass- floppys make a great raspy bass and that doesn't come over well in the video. :(
I suggest an external mic, something which will stay right next to the drives and enclosure. There are also portable audio recording gadgets which have a good mic built in, I'm thinking something like this.
(Random sidenote- that's why the clapper slate exists, seeing the clap on film and hearing it on a separately-recorded audio track is used to sync up the video with the audio...)

For reference, consider how What is Love has really strong bass, but has a good quality mic right there.
Also production wise- what that guy sometimes does is first record half the drives with the mic right next to them, then record the other half of the drives with the mic right next to them, then sync the recordings and make the two (mono) recordings into the L and R of a stereo track and lay it over the video of the drives moving which is recorded without any microphone...


Hope that helps!

Got a new bit! Montana Brand Sintered 1/2inch Core-cutter, and man o man I will never buy a carbide tip again, this is 10x faster and it's done 5 bottles with no signs of slowing. Much much better.

So, I chipped this one, at the botom of the hole when trying to lengthen it for the angle. :( It's not too bad, and hardly leaks and only if you tilt it all the way against the grommet, but I definitely want to work to a better standard than that.

Still, it works great! I really like it, it looks pretty classy! I found the bottle at goodwill for $2, and it came with the string :)

Two more pictures!: One, Two
(Lowering degrees of enthusiasm, I know.)

The draw is good, about what you'd expect from a wine bottle. The top is thick so it rests against my mouth pretty well and seals comfortably.

The bowl and downstem are from a new shop, and I like them better. They're thicker glass and were the same price as the others I had. Though I think I found a couple of good resources for parts online!

All in all, solid piece, I could probably get a few bucks for it.

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

I realize this is an old post, but...
I pinned her. 24 pins plus 1 for the base. I use a combination of pin sizes, .5mm for the arms and other very tiny parts (ie. the ones most likely to fall off), up to either a 5/8mm or 1mm...it's been a while, sorry. It's a lot of pins, a lot of work, and very worth it.
These are my smallest bits. They are size 76 titanium, which is .0003mm larger than exactly .5mm. I pair that bit (which comes in packs of 10) with this wire. It's just slightly thinner than the bit, which was planned so that there is actually room in the hole for glue. This combination works very well. I pin everything. Every limb, every model, every time. When I pin, I go at least 3mm deep, but often as much as 4-6mm when using a larger bit. For colossals, I pin very large parts with actual nails.

​

I only use thick super glue, the thicker, the better. I need my glue to stay where I put it, especially when working with tiny parts. Right now, I use this Gorilla Glue Gel.


She's a great model...my favorite in the faction. I did a conversion for her where she's holding the Convergence caster Aurora in her hands while her large pincers rip the wings off of her former teammate. It seemed like sweet justice that the Numen of Necrogenesis should be sharing her gifts with the Numen of Aerogenesis.
Here are some links to photos, if interested. Front View, Side View.

Amazon.

I have:

Generic Hobby Knife - Generic hobby knife kit. Blades were shit so I buy Xacto brand but the knives and case are good.

Needle Files - Extremely useful for polishing off mold lines or smoothing cuts.

Adjustable Jeweler's Saw - Handles a ton of different size blades for cutting metal, plastic, or wood.

Swivel Handle Pin Vice - Probably the best tool you can buy. Great for customizing what your troops are carrying.

Third Hand - Stupidly useful. Mostly for gluing.

Jeweler's Saw Blades - Bought these for my saw. Useful. Others might be better.

Micro Drill Bits - Bought for my pin vice. Useful. Others might be better.

Mini Drill Bits - Bought for my pin vice. Useful. Others might be better.

Thanks, I appreciate the support and ideas. It's entertaining to watch myself get so excited about this and your response feeds into that feeling!

A few questions:

I currently have some miliput black and some green stuff. I tried to read in the instructions to the miliput about the different colors but I don't think I quite understood the distinctions for a number of the colors. Some were obvious, but black and white somehow left me more confused. Would miliput white be a significantly different experience using than miliput black?

I really like the mold idea and will give the sculpting a shot, I think it might go a lot easier with your suggestion of having one of the antlers at hand to base my attempts off of.

I haven't used a pin vise before but I have been intrigued by it (and magnetizing things, both are directions I'd like to explore in this hobby). From some research I came across this option: Drill

Would you recommend I also pick up a drill set with different measurements like this or would the options that come in that first drill be plenty to start with?

I have a few other projects at hand at the moment so I won't be jumping onto this one too quickly, I feel more comfortable letting ideas sit inside my mind for awhile before acting on them, so no worries on the time-sensitiveness. I hope your protest goes well.

The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit

Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.

Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.


Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.

IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit

A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.

That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.

Rebuilding Materials

An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.

28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.

Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils

This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)

Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.

Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.

1: Dremels create high speed, but not torque. They heat the metal (to the point of minor burns), skip across surfaces and get stuck. For Drilling into metal minis, you want torque and pressure. I went BACK to hand drills after having too many lockups, overheated models and dulled bits.

2: Speaking of dulled bits, this is one of the most common reasons for lack of performance. Either find a way to sharpen your itty bitty bits, or have a stock of them on hand; I change mine regularly.

Start with a bit index like the one below, and get spares of the ones you find yourself using the most.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-826HDP-20-Piece-Drills-Plastic/dp/B000TY190C

3. Lastly, the KIND of hand drill you use can make a huge difference; try to find a ball-end type grip; something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Wood-Ball-Chuck/dp/B003LR73E0

The ball rests in your palm and allows you to better exert/control pressure on the drill bit and stabilized the whole process. It's also MUCH more comfortable on your hand.

Hope this helps!

Edit: If you're using paperclips to pin, i find #64 or #63 bits are best for the average small paperclip.

I haven't had to replace them yet. But if you need a new set I would probably go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SHINA-Carbide-Jewelry-Engraving-Circuit/dp/B00OOM1QOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498130399&sr=8-3&keywords=.5+mm+drill+bit

Carbide should stay nice and sharp for a long time to come. Plus with that particular set you can get a variety of sizes and they should fit into your pin vice. I would make sure to double check, or just buy a pin vice that would fit it. Bonus: if you ever get a dremmel these will fit right in for all your pinning needs! They are also available on eBay, not sure of the price difference though.

I don't own these but a buddy said one of his friends got them and loves them. Hasn't had to buy a new set in a while.

brad point bits are multipurpose. and pretty much anything that can drill metal can also drill wood.

Of course there are some bits that only drill wood but are very useful for what they do.

Good
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1369-29-Piece-Titanium-Pilot-Point/dp/B0035XHWNW/

Best
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1269-29-Piece-Cobalt-Pilot-Point/dp/B000R94EFG/

I would love these because I'm hoping to buy the drill soon and want to be able to use it for some home projects.

I'm thrilled you are happy and your username is very inspiring.

both have been linked in this thread.

you yourself found the hex shank bits:
> I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B

and the top comment linked you to the keyless adapter:
> That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like this in order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.

Use a glass drill bit like these

Make sure to use lots of water while you're drilling to keep it cool. If you keep it cool enough you can drill a nice clean hole.

If you're feeling handy you can use a tap and die set to put threads in it to put in a downstem that wont jiggle around as seen here

Edit: Don't tap the glass itself instead fit a piece of metal which is tapped. Fix the metal to the glass with super glue

Yes. This style of bit also works.

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411526817&sr=1-3&keywords=glass+drill+bit

Looking through the options, I may get some of those diamond bits because they're a lot cheaper and come in a bigger range of sizes than my hometown hardware store. Fun side fact, the diamond bits work well for really thin, delicate pieces of glass.

I'm pretty sure you wanted to respond to the OP. I've been using dowels for over a decade as my exclusive joinery method. I recommend Jessem dowelling jigs.


As for the "flag" on the drill, drill stops are more effective and reliable.

You can probably get them out pretty easy with a left handed drill bit. These Irwin bits are pretty baller. Just use a self centering punch or a small pointy punch and mark the center, then start with the smallest or second smallest one.

The idea is that the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

They also make this set that has spiral flute extractors, just in case the left handed bit doesn't catch.

You should use a torque wrench if you're not (I've totes broken bolts when torquing to spec before, so no hate if you are), a small 3/8" wrench that does inch lbs. Those bolts are probably supposed to be between 80 in lbs and 110 in lbs. Torque wrench will a) ensure you're not over-torquing and breaking bolts, and b) it's even all the way around, so you're not pinching the gasket weird in some spot.

I bought these and they work great. QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10, 12mm) Multi-Material Drill Bit Set for Tile,Concrete, Brick, Glass, Plastic and Wood Tungsten Carbide Tip Best for Wall Mirror and Ceramic Tile on Concrete and Brick Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5LqJDbYK679T1

Just take it nice and slow without applying too much pressure. I've drilled into ceramic and glass without any problems.

I've been really pleased with this DeWalt drill index. Not saying it's the most price efficient or necessarily the best, but the bits bite straight into the wood, and practically pull themselves through. Have used on sheet metal with equally satisfactory results.

Use left handed drill bits, it’ll pull it out.

A little more expensive than some, but good tools are their own reward.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IXsPDbX4H7CPB

Yes, HSS is fine for the majority of materials. If you hit up local hardware stores, stay away from any of the coated junk, it's useless. If you want good quality at a good price, pick up either a Norseman or Drill Hog 29pc set in whatever composition you prefer (M2, M7 hi-moly, M35 Cobalt, M42 cobalt hi-moly). The prices don't vary too much in that range so it probably comes down to preference. If you're in a production environment and will be drilling thousands of holes, yeah, go with cobalt. If not, go with an M7 set.

https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-44170-240-UB-Degree-Premium/dp/B00627C8ZU/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Hog-29-Pc-Drill-Bit-Set-Index-Molybdenum-M7-MADE-IN-USA-Lifetime-Warranty-/181651567209

If the 29pc set doesn't suit your needs or you just want individual sizes
http://www.norsemandrill.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/Drill-Hog

Note: My guess is that both Norseman and Drill Hog are identical and manufactured at the Norseman facility in St. Paul, Minnesota. (oh and Viking are probably also the same drill bits)*

Piggybacking off your comment since it's relevant...

It's possible to add drainage holes to just about any pot! A tile/glass drill bit like this one can be used even when the plant has already been potted (as a last ditch effort when the plant isn't strong enough yet). Just have to be super gentle with tipping it.

QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just got these yesterday. I’ve only tested them on one planter, but they went through it nice and clean.

> Acastus Knight Porphyrion

I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.

For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.

My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.

I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.

The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.

I got this set of multi-material droll bits from Amazon for less than $10, and use them to drill holes for planters all the time! 😊

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230 - Great purchase. Far easier to work with than a wire.

water? whuuuuu?

you need water for saving cutting blades from heat. such as coring or sawing.

an impact bit doesn't usually need extra cooling... especially a tiny 5/32.

i like the "4 cutter" milwaukee bits, seem to skip less and dig faster than a split bit, in my 2712.

bring some ear plugs, and let the weight of the drill do most of the work.

​

a stop collar might be useful for you, since they don't make stop bits as narrow as 5/32 :

https://www.amazon.com/Drixet-Drill-Stop-Bit-Collar/dp/B073VS72R3/

or do the poor-man's version of putting a little flag of electrical tape on the bit as a depth marker :)

I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B

Worth a try, you'll need the smallest kit they make like this:

https://www.amazon.com/d/B000HS0UJQ

And you'll want the scorpion secured in a vise or clamp to keep it steady.

Oh, if you own a drill, you can get a bit and add a hole to each pot. It's pretty easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00292AAUM

Ok so get a really thin sewing or hypodermic needle and carefully put it into the nozzles end, if it doesn’t fit, don’t force it. I’ll link a thing for that specifically in just a second.

Edit:ok here you go.
eBay: https://m.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Nozzle-Cleaning-Needle-0-2-0-25-0-3-0-35mm-3D-printer-Cleaning-Needles-/222630788518

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_aw_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VV7QD5F4WX772BSX6J10&dpPl=1&dpID=617jklFtJDL

Yeah everything looks right in there. I still think its a clog. If turning up the heat made the quality better, that indicates a flow issue. I would bet if you turned the speed to like 30, it would be better as well. Clog can be a misnomer, as you can still have decent flow, but not perfect flow with a clog. Get a set of these to help if needed. I used the lead on a resistor for a while but its not exactly .4mm.

I had a pesky clog that wouldn't come out. What I ended up doing was heat up the machine, push a bit of filament, ream the drill bit in and out and twisting the whole time. I felt something come loose but it still wasn't 100%, even after pulling the filament. So then I put the drill bit in about 1-2mm and cooled down the hot end while spinning the bit the whole time so the plastic wouldn't catch it. Then at around 100C I pulled out the drill bit and pulled the filament out. This was so I could be sure that the clogging element didn't seat itself in the exit and resist coming out with the rest of the filament. Since then, i've been golden.

I can appreciate the criticism if you started with a solution first then moved onto that.


But for someone who had been doing machine work for years and has never seen left-handed bits "reverse bits" or whatever... Makes me suspect anyway. https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG


All that being said I appreciated his solution in the end.

QWORK 5 Pcs Set (6, 6, 8, 10, 12mm) Multi-Material Drill Bit Set for Tile,Concrete, Brick, Glass, Plastic and Wood Tungsten Carbide Tip Best for Wall Mirror and Ceramic Tile on Concrete and Brick Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vjEDCb016R0RX

I've got a set of Norsemen that are great. http://www.amazon.com/Norseman-29pc-16-1-Black-Gold/dp/B00627C8ZU the cheapy big box store bits don't last long enough

What metal, and how thick?

Mild steels and softer (Copper, aluminum, tin, etc) can be drilled with a standard hand drill and drill bit.

Unless you're drilling holes in tool-steel or tungsten or the like you can use standard off-the-shelf drill bits.

TL;DR - Unless it's something extremely hard, you can get a set of drill bits that will do the job for $5

If this is something you do regularly you can just buy super long drill bits.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2731-16-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B003NFJZ46/ref=lp_256270011_1_14?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1468680461&sr=1-14

Not sure where your are looking to find them 'too expensive'.

Pin Vise

Tamiya Basic File Set

Tamiya Plastic Scriber II

Those are cheap and or par the course for finding them elsewhere. I don't think going with used tools is a good idea when you can get them new for very reasonable prices on amazon.

Pin vices generally don't hurt for quality, they're just spinny bits with a chuck or two on the front. I use a privateer press one personally but that's just because it's what was available at the time. I like the longer skinnier metal ones (http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-2715-Precision-Drill/dp/B001DZE5BQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420998371&sr=8-4&keywords=pin+vise) over the ones with a big ball on the end, but that's to personal taste.

The only difference between LP and NG orifices is the hole size. However, you cannot tell the difference with the naked eye as the difference is pretty small. But if they did give you the wrong jets, it would explain everything. You can check the orifice diameter by getting a wire gauge drill bit set (like this) and checking for yourself.

NG doesn't use a regulator, at least not one near your roaster, as the pressure is dictated by what comes into your building and what the local gas company has set the pressure to. Since you are getting 11 inches, that ought to be enough, but maybe not. You should get a good variable pressure regulator (like this) and dial it up to 22 inches. A bbq regulator may provide the pressure but it's got a small diaphragm regulator that might freeze up under high flow conditions.

Also, what does your flame look like? Check the flame color charts to make sure it's right. (Google it.)

Ha. That's not a bad idea. Amazon.us btw.

How's this for common sizes? But then that isn't bits for all -- wood, masonry, metal.

Drill bits: our Canadian leader has good things to say about: Norseman bits. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00627C8ZU/

I can't vouch for your particular situation, but these puppies have punched through anything I've thrown them at. Toughest I've used them on was stainless industrial kitchen equipment and they went through like butter.

https://www.amazon.ca/Norseman-44170-240-UB-Degree-Premium/dp/B00627C8ZU

Get a set of left handed drill bits (Amazon link) then take the smallest one from this kit, press it against the screw head, and turn the drill counter clock wise slowly.

You're trying to get the bit to bite into the head, grab a hold and unscrew it. You can apply a bit of presure.

Or, you could just keep one of these in your truck. They really come in quite handy. Goes through drywall very easily and also allows you to drill test holes in wood, etc.

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Found these on Amazon. Will they work?

Also, Will this pin vice set work?

I also went ahead and contacted GSC to see if they are willing to send a replacement joint.

I think they make drill bit extensions for under $10 or something silly like this
xtra long bit

yeah, if I had to guess, for a chain lock on a door, I suspect those screws would be quite beefy, which would make them difficult to turn by hand.

If I were doing this task, I would certainly grab my drill, Id drill a 1/8" pilot hole, than screw the screws in.

For that you would need this as well https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-15557-Drill-10-Piece/dp/B000RH22WA/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000RH22WA&pd_rd_r=65QE3ETZGVR6A835WKD2&pd_rd_w=W1W87&pd_rd_wg=XC81C&psc=1&refRID=65QE3ETZGVR6A835WKD2

good point, it does come with 2 bits, so your covered on that side.

Even ones like these? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230

Kk

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Multi-Material-Concrete-Plastic-Tungsten/dp/B0751893Y2

You don't need an adapter when the drill bits are formed like these

Treat yourself to a set of left hand drill bits. The bits usually start drilling and end up catching and un-threading the stripped/stuck screw.

Make sure the bit is fully seated into the chuck--with small bits, this is a particular problem because sometimes you need a longer drill depth. I prefer to use hex shank drill bits like, say, these: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DD5160-Impact-Ready-Titanium/dp/B017KUENH8/ -- they'll never slip.

If you have a walmart nearby they should have some. Amazon should have them too. This Kit would work, and you could have different sizes for coils or making air holes bigger.

Edit: Just noticed the reviews, looks like they might suck for drilling air holes. But they would work fine for wrapping on.

Here's one I found on Amazon (US)

Vermont American 13310 4-Piece Glass & Tile Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vrkAwbAR4VGJG

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM

glass drill bits

I use Kamo 5PCS 0.4mm Drill Bits for 3D MakerBot Printer Nozzle Cleaning Kit $7.00 always when the hot end was hot. But since I started removing the filament when I was done with the printer for the next few hours, I've not had any need to use them. Not a single clog.

The main application is putting in self tappers. Using the impact for drilling is just an efficient/lazy compromise. Here. Look.

Only $10!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751893Y2/

noooo, use this, it will be sooooooooooooooooo much faster than the carbide arrow tips

https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-44170-240-UB-Degree-Premium/dp/B00627C8ZU/

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-13-Piece-Handed-Titanium-Coated/dp/B000HS0UJQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373697461&sr=8-1&keywords=left+handed+drill+bits

Digs in when going CCW removing the screw.

I use left handed drill bits to extract broken bolts, usually works really well and doesn't require multiple steps

These are the bits I got from Amazon, I haven’t broken anything yet! ;)

In mechanics, I'd use a drill bit that spins counter to tight. So, in the typical case that's a left-hand bit. These are fairly specialized and aren't the kind of thing you'll find at Home Depot. Amazon can help.

Use cutting fluid to keep the bits cool. Start with a bit that's smaller than the broken screw shaft and drill slow and successively use larger bits until you either drill out the broken screw or the screw rotates out.

Most of the time, the bits loosen the shaft and eventually just spin out the screw without having to drill it all the way out. Thing is, with the head off the screw, there's no tension holding the threads in place. Just need to spin it free.

Does what you link totally replace the stock assembly? The nozzle goes up into some kind of block that appears to have tape around it. Will I need to rethread everything through that? I was unable to get the nozzle out of that block (I tried). Is there a trick to that?

And would these work to get the piece of metal out? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BCEZ83W2VV756AWMCFZ or are they too thick?

Cheap drill bits are absolute crap. A lot of the odd fractional sizes aren't even properly hardened because they don't expect them to see much use. Buy them from people who actually make drill bits, not just companies that slap their name on whatever products they can rebrand (Millfuckee and Default do this shit too). Cry once by spending some money, or cry every time you use the cheap shit.