I'm happy to help.

> Sennheiser HD 650

Wow, yeah, your laptop most likely does not have enough power to run 300ohm cans. You definitely want an amplifier for those phones, you're missing out on their capabilities quite a bit.

£300 is plenty for just a headphone amplifier, a lot more than I've ever spent on one haha. I'm in Canada so I'm not entirely sure where you would shop for this kind of thing, so I can only give you a general idea of what to look for.

If you want an amplifier for your desk, non-portable, you have two circuit style choices. With and without vacuum tubes. Tube amplifiers are said to have a "warmer" sound and they look cooler, but require semi-regular maintenance. Tubeless, or solid state amplifiers, (usually) do not color the sound at all, and are a better choice if you want accuracy from your headphones. I don't know what kind of sound signature the HD 650s have or what your preferences are, so you will have to take this information and decide for yourself.

For a solid state amplifier, (my preference) I cannot recommend the Schiit Magni2 enough. It's only $100 or £66.50, but you really don't need to spend as much as you'd think to drive headphones. The Magni will push your 650s far beyond anything your laptop can and give you lots of room to upgrade your headphones in the future, as they can drive even 600Ohm headphones without an issue. You can spend $50/£33.25 more to get the Uber if you need pre-amp outputs to send to a digital receiver or powered speakers. To connect this amplifier to your laptop, I think you would need a stereo RCA to 3.5mm cable.

A link to the cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Plated-3-5mm-Phono-Dark-Blue/dp/B001KEVSX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425852782&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+to+3.5

A link to the Magni: http://schiit.com/products/magni-2

I honestly have very little knowledge of the tube amplifier market, so hopefully someone else can jump in and give you more solid advice on them. Schiit's Vali is basically the Magni with tubes for a slightly higher price. I see one issue with it, and that is that the tubes appear to be soldered on so removing them and replacing them might be a hassle. I don't think this would be your first choice.

If you feel like you're not spending enough, you can also get a desk-top DAC from Schiit called the Modi. Stacking the Magni and Modi is a very popular choice for budget set ups, and to be honest I think it can stack (ha!) up to $500+ systems for its quality.

If you want a portable amplifier to use with your cell phone and computer FiiO rocks that market as far as I know. Look at their line up and find one that best suits your use - take size and power into account.

For a portable amplifier that you won't be stuffing into your pocket, only using and powering with your laptop, you can expand your horizons a little bit. There's a few USB powered amplifier/DAC combos that are hardly any bigger than a thumb drive, Resonessence Labs' Herus is a good example. It's said to have very good sound quality for an...okay price. $350/£232.74. Also check out some of FiiO's USB powered stuff, they would work in this situation well I'm sure. Let me know what level of portability you need and we can look a little bit deeper into this category.

Here's a link to FiiO's English website: http://www.fiio.net/en/fiio

Here's a link to the Herus: http://www.resonessencelabs.com/herus-2/

Sorry for the wall of text, I hope it's helpful. :)

Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.

---------

Best

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.

Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version

---------

Good

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers

--------

Cables

I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.

USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.

Wow thanks so much for that detailed response. That cleared up those questions very well. This brings me to what will likely be towards the last of my questions.

When it comes to the components I’m gonna buy I just want to be absolutely sure I’m getting what I need. I’m gonna get two of the Adafruit boards and try to get a better understanding of their function by reading through those data sheets. In terms of diodes will a 1N4001 suffice or is it better to get something with a lower rated current? Would using signal diodes be more cost effective? Also, is there a specific kind of transistor I’m looking for? On amazon there’s obviously a lot of variety. Despite said variety I could only find one power supply, just not exactly sure how connect it into the circuit, maybe through the Adafruit boards?

Finally, to clear up some confusion, by the first part of my circuit I am referring to a circuit that reads the amplitude of audio data. This circuit is using the base 5V power supply so I assume I will need another Arduino for this part of the circuit using that ones 3.3V supply. In terms of programming, will I be able to run two instances of code on one computer or will I need to compile it somehow?

Thanks again for the invaluable information.

So guess what? This Apple charger works! This charger does not. Despite the fact that one of the reviews says it works with an LG Gram 15". I haven't checked the charge rate carefully vs the stock charger but it's charging at a pretty good clip.

So I'm pretty happy. This is for traveling. With a backpack. A 2.1 lb laptop which can share a charger. Nice...

Few things to consider:

2.50" x 4.92" or Approx 63.5 mm x 125 mm is the footprint of a SFX PSU
3.39" x 5.91" or Approx 86.1 mm x 150 mm is the footprint of a ATX PSU
This leaves a difference of .89" or 22.6 mm


The AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G is 55 mm thick being 15 mm thicker than a FE card which we already know can fit with a standard ATX PSU


Using this adapter You can place the SFX PSU as close to the bottom of the case as possible
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8


Here is a 800 watt SFX PSU which is the biggest I know
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01NALZ89C?th=1


Also there is room in this case for: 2 fans on the front, 1 fan on the bottom, 2 on the top, and 1 on the back so I would also recomend a fan hub like this one from Deepcool that would allow for fans all running at a given PWM setting
https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP


I had already been planning this for some of my builds to give room for a standard dual slot card to breathe since the nano has a very limited space between the PSU and GPU. I would actually recommend this to anyone using a non FE card with this case as it will allow your card a better chance to cool properly.


If you are about to do this soon please get some Pics and share so others can see this too.


TLDR: YES

I did look pretty thoroughly at several of these kinds of Power Banks that include an AC plug. From what I gather the issue is that the power in the Lithium battery starts off as DC power, which is then inverted to AC within this Power Bank for the AC plug, then inverted back to DC power in the Chromebook's power supply. Each time the power is inverted like this it looses a fair amount of power and becomes a very inefficient source of power. If you go from the USB-C port which supplies DC power straight to the laptops power input, which is accepting DC power, it improves the efficiency quite a bit. Even this wouldn't be so bad if the battery capacity could just be bigger. Everyone I've found that actually tested their 11in to 15in Laptops/MacBooks/Chromebooks have said their lucky to get one extra full charge out of their Power Banks. Inverting the power from DC to AC and back to DC seems to cut this at least in half.

I was looking at this RAVPower unit for quite awhile until i realized the USB-C port only supplied 15watts at 5v/3a.

RAVPower 27000mAh AC Portable Charger

If I could find a power bank that included an AC outlet and still had a USB-C port that supplied 45watts (or possibly more if I was confident that wouldn't damage my chromebook), then I'd defiantly go with that.

I've gone through so many cables and chargers or just cable or brick for my OLED. The only good one so far that hasn't died on me is this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AG361X6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A fellow Redditor shared that suggestion, and I am thankful. It's inexpensive and works like a charm. :)
Edit: Also later had bought a 2nd one for my Vita portable battery.

Hello :-)

Don't rule out the Chinese kits entirely, there are the <$25 kits which have amazing value, but I can understand that's not an solution for a christmas gift.

Do consider picking up a 2wd robot chassis; Great for kids of any age ;-) They cost a bit more from the uk 1 2 than from China 1 2]; + Hbridge, + Ultrasonic sensor.

You'll have to find the right plug, but yes any 7.5V supply that can put out 3 amps or more will work. If you're lucky, it'll have something like this next to the charger port that'll tell you whether it's center-positive or center-negative. If you've got a 7.5V supply (or an adjustable bench supply) it's probably worth it to just buy a set of connectors, they're super handy for other projects, not just this one.

I bought this last week to pop my mirrorless camera in - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013MC88OW/

A bit over, but I like a good USB charger - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MXXOQTE

Amazon pro-tip - use a price tracking tool, like https://keepa.com/ to watch when stuff you want drops in price or goes on a lightning deal. You can also get a browser plugin to add a price chart into the Amazon page.

I just got the dock last week for my Surface Pro 3, and it is a super heavy piece of kit but for home use it will be great for hooking up external monitors. For travel, I picked up the Kingdo 3rd party charger which I saw in a post here somewhere and lists the Surface 5 as compatible. I just received it yesterday so no long-term testing, but I have confirmed it charges, and in addition to being reasonably light, I like that the wall-to-brick cable is longer than the MS stock charger, and the brick has a conversion option so it can plug directly into the wall.

Yes! 2017 Pro will work in older Pro 3 Dock.

There is an adapter plate to help the fitment a little better, but in my experience is isn't needed 100%, but definitely a good idea. Also, no idea why its $50 on Amazon, Microsoft was giving them away when SP4 was introduced.

The amplifier you currently have can do all that. For AUX, all you need is an RCA to 3.5mm cable, like this. Use any input on the back of the receiver.

Adding bluetooth's about as easy as adding an AUX lead, just buy another RCA to 3.5mm and add a Bluetooth receiver, like this.

I'm not 100% sure where you're located and the UK sub market seems different from everywhere else. Someone else would be able to give better suggestions on models however due to your amplifier not having a dedicated subwoofer out, you'll need to fine one with speaker level in terminals that take bare speaker wire. Hook it up like in this diagram.

I just want to give a big shout out to BcuzRacecar for all of the help he was able to give me. I was able to purchase the charger from KINGDO off of Amazon.
I wanted to use it for a bit before I gave my opinion but so far it works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-44W-Compatible-Microsoft-Carrying/dp/B074P3K3RW

Here's the link if anyone needs one as well.

Yeah, I even looked at the Ecosphere but I have heard good and bad things about them and even if I want to get it them they have to be home from 8am-6pm to sign for the delivery because it has living things. A Mini bottle garden sounds like a good idea. Maybe with the moss balls. like this one here

2700x w/Strix B450-I, Dom Plat RGB 3200mhz 2x8gb, Silverstone 700w Plat SFX-L w/swapped copper fan grill. If anyone wants to buy the PSU pm me haha, the stock fan grill from Silverstone is still mint, not to be confused with the grill that was painted. Im really trying to look for an SF600 with some custom cables or something, would die to have some PSlate cables or something before end of this month since I wont have time to wait for all of the processing time it takes for them. Have 20+ trades on r/hardwareswap but barely have time to even post anything nowadays. Still looking for a better shade of copper spray paint. If I had time I would have 100%%%%% powder coated instead of rattle-canning.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01G26SMTQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=538XD1Y5M2ML&keywords=sfx+700w&qid=1572601315&sprefix=sfxl+700%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3

\^ Thats the PSU. I could do like $140 shipped with this thrown in from CO. Lmk!

like the other said, most PCs support 110 or 220. If it's a desktop, their power supplies usually have a little switch you have to turn from one to the other. Laptops usually have chargers that switch automatically. Monitors the same. All you need is a socket converter, the kind you buy in airports. For the PC and laptop, I actually went and bought original cables, like these



https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Power-IEC320-ColorNOT-EXTENSION/dp/B009AFW6XU


https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Gateway-Notebook-Computer-Charger/dp/B002WQ7CFG


The fan and the clock might not be worth it, if they don't support it automatically (but they could, check the labels)

whatever you do, read the specifications of the electrical component before plugging it in.

Ok good, and does your Power Supply connector look like the one on the left or the right in this picture? If it looks like the one on the right, then you just need to snap them together and insert it into your RX 480. If it looks like the one on the left then you need to get an adapter like this one or this one. And again, I don't know your Power Supply model but you should double check to make sure it can handle the RX 480 (should be 450w minimum, 500+ recommended)

Technically speaking this would be best as it covers all of your bases for outputs, and could do docked mode via the AC outlet.
_____

But for portability, This would be the best bang for your buck. Additional output or USB-C ports will double the price.

that one is pretty good the usb cord is bent easy thou https://www.amazon.com/KMD-PSVita-AC-Adapter-Home-Charger/dp/B00AG361X6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479072220&sr=8-4&keywords=ps+vita+charger

I use this dock along with the free adapter insert that transforms it into an SP4 dock. Works great!

Edit- Wow, not sure what DB's are selling these free sleeves on Amazon, but that's just wrong...

Edit 2- wrong dock. I'm talking about the SP3 dock, not Surface 3. I just love MSFT's product naming logic....

The Anker charger you're looking at will only charge devices that require 5V e.g. phones and tablets etc. You need a universal laptop charger that has an option to output at 20V and 40W or higher. Something like https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Universal-Charger-Automatic-Compatible/dp/B0132ST35Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484143344&sr=1-3&keywords=universal+laptop+charger

Just make sure the Lenovo tip looks like the one on the supplied charger and you should be fine.

The Pi itself I picked up at a convention, and it included a USB device for connecting to WiFi. Most of the other parts came from Amazon:

The chasis.

The battery.

The Pi Face.

The casing.

Besides that, my friend Jason and I picked up wires and other components at Radio Shack, as well as a small set of tools from Walmart.

Thunderbolt 3 dock has been great.

I have tried a few different chargers. For now my go-to is this Dell model which is 45W and includes a USB-A charging port (only at 5w though). I've paired it with this folding plug which replaces the AC cord. What remains is reasonably compact, and the usb-c cable folds neatly around the body of the charger.

All I have are Lenovo's with the newer rectangle tip. If you are like me and have the newer style and are looking for a better, smaller, cheaper and more full featured charger, here are 3 options for you on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Charger-Automatic-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B0132ST35Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503762070&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=Vivkey+90W+Universal+Laptop+Charger

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-charger-Voltage-Adapter-Notebook/dp/B014RDL6U8/ref=as_at/?imprToken=e0B0U7I60Skh2liCRlZHEw&slotNum=1&ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=nerdtechy-20&linkId=711c1a83622a04e42f6391e031b41537

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0EENE/ref=as_at/?imprToken=e0B0U7I60Skh2liCRlZHEw&slotNum=4&ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=nerdtechy-20&linkId=1af0c396ad1d8ad9bf9e2fba37f5d329

While normally using your apps, there's no tearing as everything's locked to 60 Fps. On the other hand, when I open games like PUBG there's horrible tearing. Also, the latency is bad everywhere. There's about a half second delay, and gaming is just impossible but watching video is fine. I don't know what causes that, as the video seems ok. Trust me, I own one and I've used it over many devices. Here's the one I use:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-Adapter-HDMI-Ethernet-DA100/dp/B00O0M46T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481917055&sr=8-1&keywords=dell+usb+to+vga

Any of those would work, but it looks like the Westronix model has the highest rating of the three.

Why not just pick up a genuine Lenovo 90W AC adapter like this?

I bought this when I forgot my charger on campus and I went home for break: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NQ4KPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_he8DDb91EMJFF pretty handy since my friends and family can also use it if they lose/forget theirs

I use these/sell these. Have had good luck and they are sturdy.

90w Universal Ac Laptop Charger Power Adapter for Hp Compaq Dell Acer Asus Toshiba IBM Lenovo Samsung Sony Fujitsu Gateway Notebook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012NQ4KPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NnxIybS3VV96K

What you read does not tell you the full story. You can buy a good charger and cable for like £15.

Thanks for the info. I actually meant to list an SFX PSU, not an ATX one.

The Silverstone 700w SFX looks like it could work pretty well. There's also a 650w variant but with full-bore GPU rendering i'm worried about hitting the limits on that.

This guy used liquid cooling in his Cerberus build. I'm a little scared of liquid cooling but maybe thats the right move. I was hoping to get by with a fan though

I'm going on just specs and illustrations from their page so be aware:

>My main issue, is that I can't use my OmniCharge Pro adapters, cables or power supply with the Ultimate.
>
>Existing Pro PSU (I own two, old-style power adapter and newer "oval" power adapter). Both are 2.1mm, so won't charge the Ultimate
>
>Existing USB-A to 2.1mm barrel adapter. Works great to charge the Pro (although slow) from any USB-A port, such as the USB3 ports on my Anker USB-PD charger.
>
>Dell PSU to 2.1mm male adapter, allows me to charge the Pro with my Dell's PSU, leaving the Omni PSU back at home.

This is where I'm hung up on. All of the issues above should be able to be resolved with the adapter you ordered if the corresponding adapters are all male 2.1mm going into the DC port on the Ultimate. This would solve your issues with existing adapters.

> That's unfortunately DC out, not input, so I still can't use my existing Dell PSU to power the Ultimate, nor can I use my Anker USB-PD 60W adapter to recharge the Ultimate over USB-C. It's a chicken-and-egg problem.

From this sub somewhere, Omnicharge has said that you can charge from a USB-C power adapter so I'm not sure where you're getting that it can't.

From the Ultimate's specs, it can't handle more than 90W input source. Interesting your Innergie adapter works. Then again, it may only draw up to 90W. If that's the case, I'd just use the Ultimate's adapter save the size/weight.

​

This is how I see it working in your case barring any Ultimate output restrictions:

1: Charge Ultimate: Innergie -> DC port (just to be clear, the Amazon adapter would also allow you to charge and output to anything that has a 2.1mm barrel. If you're outputting, you'd need to use a male to male adapter)

I use these tips and will fit just about anything with a 2.1mm barrel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HORSXZ0/

2: Charge Macbook Pro: USB-C to USB-C

3: Charge Dell: MR30 out -> 2.1mm male to 2.1mm male -> 2.1mm female to Dell OR Charge Macbook Air: MR30 out 2.1mm female -> 2.1mm male to MagSafe.

> Since it's unlikely the Ultimate will actually power the Dell without draining as it's providing power, even with a PSU to the wall, I'd prefer to carry my Dell's 180W PSU with me and use that to charge the Omni + Dell as needed, and use the Omni to power/charge the MacBooks.

From your scenario, you could carry two adapters at most (the Dell and Ultimate charger) to charge everything. Even if you go with a USB-C brick instead of the Ultimate's charger, you could output from both the DC and MR30 ports. Maybe we're saying the same thing but missing out details?

On a side note, why do you need an Air and a Pro and a Dell? Do you need them all simultaneously?

I just bought one of these for my Chromebook Pro. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYAOK4

I like it better than the stock charger.

I think the easiest solution would probably getting a one of these and a compatible charger like this one I think.

The FTDI programmer can supply power as well but it might not be enough if you make use of the Wifi stuff.

Not sure if this counts, but I have one on my desk and it's adorable.

http://www.amazon.com/Hinterland-Trading-Marimo-Aquarium-Kit/dp/B00K7VOOAE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1421285206&sr=8-4&keywords=marimo&pebp=1421285211499&peasin=B00K7VOOAE

I used to have the DA100 until I lost it.. Great piece of kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-Adapter-HDMI-Ethernet-DA100/dp/B00O0M46T0

Should also point out that unlike its successors it doesn’t have Alt-Mode so will work on any notebook

yetis are overpriced trash https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu-V0ZqfYHg. OP consider a large powerbank or 2 like https://www.amazon.com/Battery-RAVPower-32000mAh-External-Portable/dp/B06XZ6KSG3?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5737052011
or https://www.amazon.com/Portable-RAVPower-27000mAh-Indicator-Universal/dp/B07PBSH28H/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ravpower+ac&qid=1563393128&s=gateway&sr=8-3
if you want a regular outlet

also consider a few handcrank lanterns https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Rechargeable-Collapsible-Flashlight-Emergency/dp/B00NIL1DFO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hand+crank+lantern&qid=1563393221&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Not ideal at all. Depending on how much power the GPU is drawing, this could damage the PSU. It looks like his PSU isn't decent enough, since it doesn't even have a 8 pin PCIE cable, so I recommend buying a new PSU, if possible. If not possible, this should a better alternative, since it comes with some GPUs:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4PCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG
Edit: still not ideal, but it should be safer indeed

Coolio. BTW, I found this:

https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

You can input all of your stuff and it'll calculate what kind of power supply you need. I haven't used it for a few months, so I don't know how up to date it is. But It's worth trying, I think.

Edit: I did some rough calculations and rounded up rather generously, and it would seem that you may need a PSU that goes up to 800 watts.

Here's one that seems a little pricey, but I think it would be worth it.

https://smile.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-SX800-LTI-Titanium-Capacitors/dp/B01NALZ89C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503921260&sr=8-3&keywords=800+watt+psu

There is a cute marimo kit on amazon I was drooling over the other day. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K7VOOAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1413505343&sr=8-9&pi=SL75

I’m using this one on my surface pro 3

charger

It’s been fine for the last few months and has a nice adapter for wall charging.

The iRig plug is what's called a TRRS plug (Tip, Ring, Ring, Shield). This is a common interface for both mic and earphone (in and out) on the same plug. It works with iPhones, iPads, and Macs because their headphone jacks are actually TRRS jacks that support both input and output.

PCs are less standardized. Even though the jack on the PC looks the same from the outside, some will be TRRS jacks, and some will be TRS jacks (Tip, Ring, Shield), which only supports stereo out with no mic (so output but no input).

If it isn't working, you'll need an adapter to convert from TRRS to separate mic and headphone jacks. These aren't common, but it would be something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Microphone-Breakout-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B00IU2CYXG

EDIT: Originally linked to wrong adapter (not 100% sure this one would work either, but it looks like the right thing)

Extending the higher voltage part of the circuit is always more efficient, you get a double whammy on the low-voltage side as the amperage is going to be higher, requiring thicker wire; AND The higher amperage creates higher voltage drop across the resistance of the wire AND that voltage drop is a much greater percentage of the target voltage.

Get a skinny lamp cord type extension for the 120V side.

Or, the AC inlet on your laptop supply is probably an IEC C5 or C9, just get a longer one. https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Gateway-Notebook-Computer-Charger/dp/B002WQ7CFG

You can use a 6 to 8 pin PCIe adaptor. The 2 extra pins are just sense pins and can be just connected ground.

They also make 4 pin molex to 8 PCIe adaptors, but I've cooked one of those before, so they make me leery. The 4 pin molexes frequently make poor/loose connections as well.

It look like your RX 470 can pull around 160 W tops, so you should be careful your 450W PSU can power everything. Unless you got a bunch of extra crap, you'll probably be fine(a bit risky).

You could always get him a Self Contained Ecosystem. I've heard good things about those.

Or on the cheaper side: A live pet moss ball in a jar.

I use the Dell one, it's really nice since the cord wraps around the charger. Very fast charging too. Remember to get https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01MQYAOK4/

Get the plug too (USA): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCVGND2

You can get name brand 500watt powersupplies routinely on slickdeals for $25 after a mail in rebate if that helps.

Also, Unless your current PSU is terrible, there's a decent chance you can use something like this to power it. Or 6 pin power if you choose a 6 pin power card.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-LP4PCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483482746&sr=1-2&keywords=8+pin+power+adapter

Will using a LP4 to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Cable Adapter affect preformance(https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPDV18DSCM4WFAEG3X6E) on a 1070 ti. Thanks

It is funny to see someone call Apple incompatible, when a universal charger for PC laptops comes with over 30 adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Notebook-Toshiba-Laptops/dp/B01HORSXZ0/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HORSXZ0&pd_rd_r=GMNVT9HWCE6QMX96NFRB&pd_rd_w=6gdtD&pd_rd_wg=spPMn&psc=1&refRID=GMNVT9HWCE6QMX96NFRB

This might be a better option for you, check clearance though as it is SFX-L.

I got this one and it works amazingly. Plus it has a nice long cord.

I'm testing a macbook with the a usb hub with PD & the Dell usb 3 hdmi adaptor tomorrow

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-Adapter-HDMI-Ethernet-DA100/dp/B00O0M46T0/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUKEY-Charger-Delivery-Charging-Macbook/dp/B01G1MJCTK/

we've used both separately without issue on different macs, so this should be an interesting test

Overall, it's fantastic.

Like most of the other people have ordered these, mine had 0 defective pixels, but some backlight bleed. I taped around the edges of the panel to reduce it, and that did a decent job. 90% of the time, the backlight bleed isn't noticeable. When watching dark shows like Game of Thrones, it can become visible. It's slightly annoying, but it's always on the edges, so it's never a deal breaker.

I recently purchased a new DVI-D cable because the new one was too short for me. It shipped with a 4-5 ft cable, I needed 6.

Mine didn't come with a US power adapter. It included the power brick, but I had to use a spare cable (like this) that I had lying around. It only included the Korean version of that cable.

The stand is very wobbly, but there are VESA mounts. Personally, I'm fine with the stand the way it is, as my desk isn't in a place where it could be knocked around much. If it were, I'd consider purchasing a new mount for it.

I haven't attempted overclocking it yet, so I can't speak on that. Not sure if I will try it at all.

The colors are fantastic. I'm using my old 24" TN monitor as a secondary monitor right now. Sometimes I'll pull up the same video on both screens just to convince myself that the $300 was worth it. It's a huge difference.

I haven't witnessed any ghosting or input lag or anything like that in games. Honestly, I think most of that response time lingo is just a marketing gimmick, but hey, maybe some people can notice it.

I think that covers just about everything that I've experienced with it. Let me know if I skipped anything!

Oh, and I have the glossy, not the matte. Not a huge difference between the two though, just a coating on the panel. The electronics are all the same.

edit: To be clear, not all panels have backlight bleed, and not all panels have 0 defective pixels. As mentioned above by /u/Remmib, some have no backlight bleed but some dead pixels. It has been my experience, from reading forums of people who own these monitors, that a majority of people do not have any dead pixels, but have some moderate to severe backlight bleed.

edit2: fixed length numbers a bit

I'm assuming the following two things:

• Your M6 Pro has a headset cable with a microphone.
  
• You are trying to use your M6 Pro to hear what's coming from your computer and to use it as a mic into your computer.
  
  If this is correct, and you have separate mic and headphone jacks on your computer, you have to use a TRRS breakout cable.
  
  If you're using the M6 Pro with a headset cable, it will have a TRRS plug at the end, because the additional ring (vs a standard TRS) plug is being used solely for the microphone. If you plug a TRRS plug into a TRS jack, you are bridging the two rings so that they're on the same channel (essentially dumping your audio signal directly into your mic signal), and then if you try to split that, you're splitting the now TRS signal into just two duplicates of the TRS signal.
  
  You need the plug your M6 Pro into a TRRS breakout because it separates the audio and mic channels into discrete TRS connections, which are usually then labeled or color-coded so that that can be plugged into the appropriate headphone and microphone jacks.
  
  tl;dr: If you have a single headset cable, but a separate mic and headphone jack, you need to use a TRRS breakout cable to separate the mic and the headphone inputs.
  
  Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IU2CYXG

You need a breakout cable. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Microphone-Breakout-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B00IU2CYXG

You need something like this to get the microphone and headphones on different jacks, then you can plug the microphone into your interface.

If you've got another USB-powered device get something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Charger-PowerPort-Interchangeable-Adapter-White/dp/B01MXXOQTE

PCH-1000 or phat models doesn't use standard USB charger. They use the thing called PS Vita charger (which looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/KMD-PSVita-Adapter-Home-Charger-playstation/dp/B00AG361X6/ref=br_lf_m_dedpg522swnz3o9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=videogames). Had you ordered a PCH-2000 or slim model, it would work with any smartphone charger.

I can only find ones in the UK but it might be worth getting a universal power adapter

Yeah something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Plated-3-5mm-Phono/dp/B001KEVSX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458075482&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

The plugs themselves are the same, its just phono is very low level.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NALZ89C/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4WED1V5APRHNHS39BVW5&dpPl=1&dpID=71bydqaxYlL

This one is a little more expensive than the sf600, but it does have more headroom and it also has a larger fan that can spin slower to be less noisy. The sf600 is a nice psu that I'm actually considering for a build that requires sfx, but I have heard that it does run a bit noisy, so going sfx-l would probably cut down on noise without much compromise.

Ah yeah, I see what you mean. I couldn't just use one of these with a 1/4 inch adapter on the 3.5mm end

Keep like one SSD on hand. When you sell it, then buy a replacement. Hard drives go bad a lot: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U

Perhaps one universal laptop charger too: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Charger-Automatic-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B0132ST35Y

A few USB and Ethernet cables, and a desktop power cord.

A Wireless router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B001FWYGJS

I realize none of these things are cheap, but they'd be the highest-priority/most frequently needed, depending on your customer's needs.

you'd be right, there's a headphone jack, and there's a microphone jack, there is no combo jack.

if the adapter you're using is like this then that's the correct way to do it

You'll need to either get a new power supply or one of these.

This is what i currently have, is this not powerful enough?

Anker

Get something similar to this?

But obviously with the plugs you'll actually need.

Issue is going to be the power you are plugging it into. The old phone charge is not enough amps and is likely only charging a tiny bit. Order the power brick to charge it correctly or pick it up at a used store.

Here is an $8 one on amazon

This is the one that I have.

You could try this. Assuming your power supply will handle everything.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0132ST35Y/ref=psdc_11041841_t1_B01HP2A8G6

Try a universal charger with tips.

It says I'd get it in July..

Is this a good alternative?

There are adapters that either convert a 6 pin to 8 pin or a molex to 8 pin.

6 to 8

Molex to 8 pin

maybe one of these will work. Or they have chargers with all the types of ends too.

charger link

I'm looking right now.... give me a sec op

Edit:
Checked bby.com and we carry every other cable but that one. Unless you buy one of the universal laptop adapters. But they would probably have the "figure 8" connector. Instead of the "mickey mouse" one which is the photo that you uploaded.


I'm going to link different places that I found it available at.

Amazon : Made by Belkin 6' long

Walmart (online) ; Made by "Cables to go" 6' long

Amazon: Made by PRW+ (available in lengths up to 12')

Newegg: 12' cable

It's a TRSS connector. You need a splitter. Headphone/Mic to TRSS https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Microphone-Breakout-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B00IU2CYXG

I am UK based but:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MXXOQTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wGL0DbNTEPAKV

You'll need a splitter to convert the 4 pin combined mic and headphone plug to the standard split plugs that desktops use.

https://www.amazon.com/KMD-PSVita-Adapter-Home-Charger-playstation/dp/B00AG361X6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526397413&sr=8-3&keywords=ps+vita+1000+charger

I purchased this one : https://smile.amazon.com/Surface-Charger-Microsoft-Including-carrying/dp/B074P3K3RW/ref=lp_17398530011_1_1?srs=17398530011&ie=UTF8&qid=1525323535&sr=8-1

As I said, I am supplying the power to the Arduino.

The motors are DC motors from a car I'm trying to build (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GSIRHEU).

By inconsistencies I mean that the code loops through moving backwards and forwards, and it doesn't always move the same distance, sometimes it even skips the backward moving part.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001KEVSX8?cache=3ed23c9addd9a0187b2e1211a0b3ddbc&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406594630&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

Oh, so I checked, it has 4 pcies, but 2 of them are 2x4 and 2 of them are 2x3. I need 2x4, and both of them are old pins. I bought this and it just came. Could it work? Its a new pin so it might work... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B006PHXLRG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon universal laptop power supply

I have a RavPower one. It was about $130 for a 100 Wh one. I also had to pay about $70 for an adapter and a USB-C to USB-C cable (granted, it was at the airport). Link to what I have.

This will work (although I never recommend converters for the sake of quality and they can be inconsistent with performance) StarTech.com LP4PCIEX8ADP 6-Inch LP4 to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5LCLub0VJAXYM

So it looks like you have a computer speaker set that had a simple 2.1 setup. Computer into the bass module and then some single RCA connectors for each speaker. These ran to the Gale towers. The problem that you have is inside the bass module is an 3 channel amp. One for the "sub" and one each for the mains.

The new SW150 only has one a one channel amp and it's for the sub. You'll need to either feel it with a low level signal from an AVR/computer or a high level signal from an amplifier that will power your speakers.

Here is the what you need to make it work. Go from the computer to the amp with the cable. Then from the amp output to the sub speaker inputs then go back out to the towers from those same terminals. This will allow you to control the volume with either your computer or the amp. You can also split the signal coming from your computer and go into both the amp and sub with separate RCA cables but you won't be able to control the volume of both with the amp. You'll have to do it with your computer after you level match the sub and amp.

Amp - SMSL SA36 £33

Cable - 3.5mm to RCA £5 to go from the computer to the amp.

Speaker wire £11 to go from the amp to the sub then the sub to the towers.

I've use done of those before with no issue.

I specifically have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-DA100-Universal-Adapter/dp/B00O0M46T0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498674484&sr=1-3&keywords=Dell+adapter+USB

It's just USB 2.0 but i had it around so Its what I continue to use.

Nah, not custom, there are custom ones that can be purchased though.

Ok, if you'd take both I'll do a combo deal of $150 shipped for both items. You'd have to wait a bit for my pictures though as I'm at work right now.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01G26SMTQ

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-Z370I-PRO-CARBON/dp/B0778N6CFK

Those are the two items.

The MSI is actually a refurb that I got directly from MSI. The first board I got from them messed up, so I RMA'ed it, and I bought another board because I didn't want any downtime. This one has just been sitting here since then.

I can't use something like this?

Let me get this straight, your GPU requires 8 pin connector, right? And your PSU only has 6? If so, that means if the GPU requires more power and the PSU cant deliver, the GPU won't perform optimally or might even crash.

Something like this should work to fully power your GPU

Hi again, just a quick question would one of these not work http://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-Express-Video-Power-Adapter/dp/B006PHXLRG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372856705&sr=8-2&keywords=8+pin+pcie

Just to troubleshoot the problem?

I'd recommed getting another charger such as this or something similar on Amazon. Apple chargers will give you pitiful charging speeds.

The 8 pin connector is likely an 8 pin EPS connector for the PSU. Unfortunately, your PSU is a low quality unit (as most are that come with a case) and does not appear to have the correct connections to power your GPU. You could buy an adapter like this but this is not ideal. The less cheap but more reliable option would be to buy a higher quality/wattage PSU with enough native connectors such as a Corsair CX500 and similar bronze rated units.