(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best office glue & adhesives

The best solution you can get for printing PETG without any warping is a glass bed with PVA glue. I would highly recommend getting a borosilicate (Pyrex) glass plate. Borosilicate glass has a VERY low coefficient for thermal expansion so it extremely resistant to thermal shock and the breakage that comes with it. I had the piece of glass for my CR-10 cut to size at a local glass shop as glass beds were not offered anywhere for the CR-10 at the time. However now you can go on Amazon and pay a very reasonable price for a nice glass bed. Such as this which is less than half the price that I had to pay about two years ago. Ooof!


Take your glass sheet and attach it directly on top of the metal heated bed that the CR-10 has with binder clips. It is a very simple but extremely effective way to keep the glass tightly attached without issue while also allowing a quick and simple process for removing prints and swapping print surfaces.


Then, it is time for the star of the show, the PVA glue! Now, before you get intimidated by the exotic sounding glue (like I did when I first heard about having to use it), just know that it is literally just Elmer's Disappearing Purple Gluestick. This is seriously one of the BEST tools for anyone who prints somewhat exotic or finicky materials. Uncap the glue and evenly coat the glass with a light coating and you are ready to go. When I say light, I mean just one pass over each spot, do not do more than one coat, that one coat is plenty! The best part is that it is disappearing, so when you apply the glue and it still has a bit of moisture, it is a dark purple, however once it sits for about 30 seconds on a bed that is heating up it loses its color and becomes more translucent so you can see exactly what parts of the bed are coated well and which parts you may need to touch up. When the glue has lost its color and the glass looks like it is a bit hazy or foggy then you are ready to print!


PETG can be a bit tricky to print if you are coming from PLA but it is very rewarding once you dial it in.


I would suggest that you either use a low fan setting of 25% or less (except when bridging which should be 100%) or do not use the fan at all (again unless bridging). PETG is a material that wants to stay hot and slowly cool on its own. It does not like to be hit with a fan instantly after being laid down like PLA. PETG actually fuses itself together at the layers which makes it have extremely strong layer adhesion, whereas a properly formed PETG print cannot be separated at the layer lines because of this fusing effect. (This is why you NEVER print PETG directly onto PEI as it can fuse with the PEI and tear the PEI off of the bed.)

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I would also suggest that you run a hotter bed temperature. I personally print PETG with a bed temp between 85 and 100, depending on the brand of PETG I am using.


There is one VERY important end of print step to safely and successfully print PETG. When the print is finished, DO NOT let the bed cool to ambient temperature while the print is still attached! You MUST set your end of G Code to reduce the bed temperature to about 60% of the temperature it was while printing. This is a very important step so that your piece does not break your glass bed! This is especially important as the printed pieces get larger and have a larger contact surface with the bed. If you allow the print and glass bed to cool to ambient on their own then you are dramatically increasing the chance that the print will cool too rapidly and shrink while still attached to the glass and end up breaking the glass.


This may seem like a lot of things to do to print PETG but when you see the final result and how strong and beautiful PETG can be printed it is all well worth the effort.

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One final tip about PETG is that it is very hygroscopic (not as bad as Nylon but still noticeable and much worse than PLA) and needs to be taken care of for it to print well. PETG needs to be stored in airtight bags with desiccant packs while it is being stored. PETG should never be left out in the open air for longer than it needs to be. If the roll is not currently supplying a print then it MUST be stored properly. If you allow your PETG to sit out and absorb the water from the air, it will print very poorly and never give good results. If you are printing PETG and can hear a crackling or hissing sound at the nozzle, then your PETG is too wet and needs to be fixed! The crackling and hissing sound that can be heard is the water that has been absorbed by the PETG being instantly boiled and turned to steam when it hits the hotend. This is most noticeable with Nylon but poorly kept PETG will also exhibit this same behavior.

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If you have any questions or need me to clarify something please ask and I will gladly do my best to help! PETG is well worth the hassle and learning curve as the results that can be achieved with it are truly amazing.

Since I'm in a state that does bottle redemption, I'm able to get empties for 7¢/bottle, so about $3.40 for 48 bottles. My LHBS sells boxes of 24 bottles for $20! Obviously this means that I have to do some cleaning because they are secondhand bottles, but For that price, it's worth it to me. However, if I get a bottle that's really grisly inside, I throw it right back into my redemption bin, those are not worth it to me.

When I get the bottles home I soak for 24-48 hours in dish soap. I know some people don't like to use dish soap on brewing equipment, but I haven't seen any ill effects. After that, most labels come off really easy with minimal residue. The tool I use most is a Pampered Chef Pan Scraper. The best bottles for easy label removal so far have been Sam Adams, Allagash and Lagunitas, just off the top of my head. Cleaning the inside of the bottles is generally easy enough with a bottle brush after the soak.

If I get bottles with stubborn residue, Goo Gone usually does the trick. Some might say it's too much work, but I don't mind it.

And on the other side, when I put my own labels on, I use a laser printer on regular paper, and attach with rubber cement or similar product. The labels will stay on as long as they don't soak for too long, works for me.

I would buy this,

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP03-12-Volt-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B000ET9SAU/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980138&sr=1-12&keywords=slime+air+pump

and

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-2040-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET9SAA/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980761&sr=1-5&keywords=tire+plug+kit

In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.

Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Rubber-Cement-oz/dp/B003V9UU66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1448981382&sr=8-5&keywords=rubber+cement

Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.

That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Lengthened-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U

This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.


As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.

I would splurge for these nice jumper cables

http://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-Listed/dp/B00VHE76GE/ref=lp_15719941_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448981135&sr=1-1

That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.

I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.

I don't see it being worth the cleaning and energy cost, but good luck. You will probably have to clean it once a week and maybe pull out the whole pump once a month. I suggest the pot be built as 3 seperate reservoirs (left side, creek, right side). Have the creek one hollowed, maybe with a false bottom, and the sides like regular pots with drain holes and soil. That way you can remove and work on the pump without disturbing the trees in any way, and if you can get a small enough pump you can isolate it in the pot instead of possibly having it out on a table or something.

I also suggest that if you have the funds, buy two pumps. Pumps fail very frequently, and if you design the pot to a specific pump you might be SOL if (more like when) it breaks and you cannot find a replacement.

I had lots of fish growing up. Pumps are a pain in the ass.

I would suggest an alternative to the real water. I did this as a little art project many years ago and it turned out really good. Build the creek with rocks like you would have, but instead of running water and a pump, buy a bunch of this and just dump it on the rocks. When it dries up (which will take a couple days, depending on how thick you make it) you will be amazed how realistic it looks. Put it on thicker than you need, it will shrink a little when it dries. You can always add more later though. Maybe not as awesome as running water, but nearly as good without nearly as much hassle and cost.

Edit: This is the only example I could quickly find.

Artsy for life

One of my favourite crafts is Warhammer. I've done a conversion from $ which is £15.50? I love painting the models, never really been a fan of the game though. I have a lot of painted models, which I believe to look pretty good, thing is the basing. I've never really tried to do anything to adventurous with the bases, but have always wanted to.

This basing kit along with some PVA Glue would get me off to a great start at having 100% complete looking troops.

I used to have loads of photos of my Warhammer, but cannot really find any at the moment. I found one which is on my website Sorry for the small image.

Although the models are small and fiddly to paint, I just find it so relaxing, and have such a sense of achievement at the end looking at them finished. I can take more photos when I get home if anyone is interested.

While lots of people recommend various build surfaces, I've always found glass to be the most durable and versatile surface to use. Plus you know you're getting a perfectly flat build surface, and nothing beats that shiny mirror finish bottom layer. I've been using this type of glue on a glass bed for a few years now:

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E588-Glue-Stick/dp/B00ISZZ48W/ref=zg_bs_1068996_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GSZBXX6SADSPZ2XA7RN6

as long as the bed is even close to level, pla sticks to it great at 45-50c and petg works just as well at 85-90c.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

I have an oval glass coffee table top connected to a single metal support in the middle. The glass top has debonded from the metal support and I plan on re-adhering it with this two part epoxy. My qustions are how do I know how much epoxy to use and is it possible to clean off the additional glue that will inevitably drip down the support as it gets squeezed out?

Apologies for no pictures.

And when using a glue stick like these on AmazonUK, it's hard to go wrong. To make things even easier to clean your glass, a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the glass while its warm makes clean up a snap.

Our lab swears by Uhu Stic. Works awesome and the huge tubes and fat tips make application a breeze.

There is actually hotglue in a lot of heatshrinks. You can also use hotglue to make connectors for your cables if you don't have access to some injection method. Really, hotglue is the basically the same plastic as used in many industrial applications. Hotglue is great. You can use it to insulate three-way connections and to make your heatshrink look more even. Just make sure it doesn't have sparkly metal bits in it.

STL is from u/WaltRitt and uploaded at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891771

I use Hycote Filler Primer but am open to suggestions for better alternatives.

Plasto is made by Revell and I believe is an alternative to Bondo, which we can't seem to get here in the UK.

Epoxy is Gorilla Epoxy

The wood was an old Scrabble tile I found which happened to have the same thickness so I just cut to size with a sharp craft knife.

Have you heard of sugru? It's a moldable glue that I imagine has a similar feel to that toy. It's pretty strong stuff, too. It's not exactly what you were asking for, but I bet your son could probably recreate the toy in blue sugru.

Before you try pros aide, try the Extra Strength Elmer's Glue: https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Strength-Office-12-Pack-E532/dp/B0013CBHMO

Don't use safe release. You want plain jane original 2090 blue 3m.

https://smile.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-88-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B000A3DQGW/

You might get the safe release to stick with a layer of AquaNet ultra/extra hold no scent

https://smile.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM

Or with some purple no show glue stick

https://smile.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E522/dp/B00178KMUC

But really, you'll want to eventually get a heated bed. Yes, this stuff can work, but you'll spend more on it over time than if you upgraded to a heated bed.

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What filament are you using, brand type and possibly color? Got any pictures? What are your print settings?

So just something like this?

I'm gonna guess DRAGON'S BLOOD because it sounds badass.

Send me some rubber cement?

I'd try using the adhesive that you'd use to reassemble a cell phone. Something like this

90% sure it was this Loctite Super Glue Gel Control Bottle 4 Gram Case of 6 (1364076-6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2S50HN/
Sides squeeze in to dispense.

I’ve used Gators Glue acrylic glue to fill small cracks and windows. It dries rock hard, and clear after about 24 hours. Can be sanded smooth and polished.

I'm not sure if you can get Pritt Stick brand where you are, but in the UK they seem to be the gold standard of glue sticks.

For a few years my Mum used them for textile swatch samples. (Image, Wiki) Growing up I had as many glue sticks as I could get my hands on!

I also disagree, I print ABS all the time with a bed temp of 80C. I recommend [Elmers Glue stick] (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Jumbo-Glue-Stick-Pack/dp/B00MZ5Q5QG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) to coat the bed as it's warming up. Let each layer dry prior to the next, but you'll want a couple layers before the print starts.

I use one of these these... Frequently. I haven't tried purple. I've got about a 0.1mm thick layer of it on the bed from frequent usage. The coating seems to prevent the need to print wet, and it gives me a bit of a "scraper buffer" on the glass.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1591/dp/B00ATJLLC8/

two-part epoxy is the only way to go.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Glue-6044001-25ml-Epoxy/dp/B009NQQJFC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406960238&sr=8-1&keywords=epoxy

Should I use [this sort of putty stuff] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Milliput-Superfine-White-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410973369&sr=8-5&keywords=2+part+epoxy) or the liquidy type?

edit: just found this stuff... do you think it might work?

+1 Purple glue stick and a proper bed level.

Elmer's Glue Stick (E579), Disappearing Purple, 3 Sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZ5Q5QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wDYBb443TTSR

Link

What are you using to level the bed? Also where are you leveling it to? (above the bed screws are the right spot) I use a piece of receipt paper folded in half to level it.

It may be worth using a bed level gcode to assist with the human error or placement problems)

Also the stock springs may be bad these should help with the frequent bed leveling.

A glass bed may also help with adhesion with these