Reddit mentions: The best cyanoalcylate adhesives

Reporting back:

I applied the screen tonight. Here's the screen+toolkit I bought, and here's the extra adhesive tube I bought. More on this adhesive tube below (I would strongly recommend it).

(1) The process was pretty simple. I followed the removal directions from this video that I found in several other places on this sub. Since my screen was already cracked, I didn't need to use a heat gun or hair dryer at all. I just inserted a fine flat head screwdriver near the top at the notch, then wedged the guitar-pick ply-tool to start pulling it up, and then just slowly slid it around the screen. It came off really easily. I saw some other comments saying to be careful not to crack/chip/break the ceramic edging, and some other comments saying that you may split the glass from the digitizer if you get the ply-tool between them, but that you should notice it either because it gets harder to slide or (in my observation) I could physically see that I wasn't pulling the white-silvery layer up. That said, if you're hoping to save the screen for any purpose, maybe it pays to use the heat gun or be a little more careful in case you want to re-apply the old screen in case the new one doesn't work or something. The kit I bought also came with a long-handled pry-tool which I found helpful to pull off the connector without damaging anything, and it came with a suction cup which may have been helpful to pull up on the screen and get leverage (since the edges are hard to hold on to), but my screen was so busted that I peeled it up like a busted windshield and I didn't need the suction cup anyway.

(2) When installing the new screen, double check to make sure the connector actually snaps in. I saw a couple comments of people saying it wasn't attaching well/staying attached.. and when I applied mine I thought it was on and then when screwing it in I pushed on it again just to square everything up and THEN it snapped into place. So... just double check. I might also recommend briefly turning it on and making sure you're getting an image and some touch response before glueing everything back together... I didn't want to glue it all on and then realize I hadn't connected it or had gotten a crappy/non-working screen.

(3) I used some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips to remove all the glass fragments and old adhesive strips to get a really good reapplication. I followed this comment's suggestion on where/how to put adhesive (and where NOT to put adhesive). My experience had two big takeaways (a) you REALLY don't need a lot of glue. Like genuinely that ledge is like 0.5mm wide, just put enough to barely wet it. Take your time and be patient. The glue doesn't dry TOO fast, so you'll have time to apply it and then get everything situated. (b) the kit I bought came with a tiny tube of B-7000 adhesive, but definitely pay $8 and get the tube with the fine-tipped metal applicator. The tiny tube I had was just way too large and even being as careful as I could I couldn't help but get it all over. Luckily it didn't get into the buttons or on anything critical, and supposedly I can just peel/scratch-off the excess around on the outside in a day or so. I didn't realize that metal applicator was on the other tube and realized it after I'd already done the whole thing.

(4) The whole thing turned out alright. I have a little glue squeezed around the edges, but I'll probably scratch peel-off in a day or so once it's good and cured. Depending on how careful you are, you could probably get away with doing this whole thing without any special tools. You WILL need a micro-phillips head screwdriver, and you will definitely need something very fine like a micro-flat head screwdriver to start that initial pry off. And you can use a playing card to pry the edges off. But, I went ahead and got the tools since it was basically the same price as the other sets on Amazon, and that way I knew I at least had it. I probably could have done it without the tools, but this way I knew I had everything I needed, and I have it for the next time if I ever need it again.

(5) It could be my imagination, but the screen feels like I'm getting better touch-response, less jumpy/lag, and when it initially turned on it looked a little ... bluer ... than before. That could all just be my imagination, but at the very least the screen is at least as good as the old OEM screen. Maybe better!

Sorry for being wordy, but I figure if I can help out, I will! Also, here's all the other links I looked at during this process, in case you want to read through them yourself.

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/baloka/diy_screen_replacement_experience/

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/8y0f5w/screen_replacement_tips/

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/biqeez/screen_replacement_lessons_learned/

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/9trptp/screen_replacement/

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/99xewm/tips_for_diy_screen_digitizer_replacement/

https://www.reddit.com/r/essential/comments/91zw9z/essential_phone_screen_replacement_adhesive/

Welcome to the hobby!

1. Short answer: No. Long answer: -ish, but mostly no. DIfferent sub-factions have access to different tactics, stratagems, and units, but no-one worth playing with is going to fault you for running your red painted marines as Ultramarines or vice versa.
   
   
2. I recommend this brand/style of paint set If you keep your focus small, these paints will last you a long time. For washes, I recommend this and this to start. Using a spray can from Army painter is also an easy way to get your base coat down. Brushes are a tricky thing to recommend. Some of the best miniature painters in the world use the cheapest brushes so there's no way to make a solid recommendation. FWIW, I've used the citadel (point wouldn't keep), army painter (too soft), and vallejo brushes and prefer that latter far more.
   
   
3. Generally, 2 thin coats. It can be more with lower pigmented paints (like Reaper) or if you're trying to paint a lighter color on a dark undercoat. As mentioned above, you can also use army painter rattle cans to do your undercoat. Then they're just detail work and a wash away from "table top standard".
   
   
4. Youtube is full of great hobby videos. This video has a good run down of some common and uncommon brands of paint. They also have a useful video for washes.
   
   
5. Variable. Beginners will always take longer. Some minis are more complicated than others. Some may require extra steps like washing before assembly. For plastic models [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G?aaxitk=yw87pCjpm4VEKpuh.qGtFQ&pd_rd_i=B003Y49R7G&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=6960164520701&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Loctite%20Ultra%20Gel%20Control%20Super%20Glue%204-Gram%20(1363589) is a great glue. Spraying on your base coat will definitely speed things up, but the more detailed a model is, the longer it will take. Some people even drill holes and glue in magnets so the can swap weapons around on their minis.
   
   
6. Yes, but I really would advise against starting with Dark Imperium. It's a good deal if you are intent on getting into full army battles and you know you'll make use of both factions/be able to sell one. Kill Team is a better entry point because the only investment in plastic crack you need to make is one box of troops for your preferred faction. It will also give you a feel for the rules and if this is a game you like enough to invest in.
   
   One more thing: terrain makes games of 40K great, but buying manufactured terrain can be very expensive. I recommend buying a double sided battle mat made of mousepad material. These are good mats in the US/Canada and these are good in the EU. As for your large, line of sight blocking terrain, I recommend...building it yourself. Wyloch's Armory is an excellent place to start with crafting your own terrain.
   
   I hope this helps, and if you have more questions, please feel free to ask.

Sorry for the potato quality.

Made of kydex. Used barrel nuts, screws and plastic weld for the adjustable part. Neoprene liner to protect the stock.

First attempt. Pretty sloppy with some of the cuts for the Velcro straps, will probably use a plunge cutter on the router next time.

Edit: How to and parts.

Here's an album of it disassembled: http://imgur.com/a/Hx72f

Threw this together quick, so sorry if its not exact, but it should give you an idea.

The parts aren't exact, go to lowes or home depot and play around with what fits best for your application and make sure all the screws screw what you want...

The Hillman Group 1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut - http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=137342-37672-880539&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3012548&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

The Hillman Group 20-Count #10-24 x 3/8-in Button-Head Plain Steel Allen-Drive Socket Cap Screw - http://www.lowes.com/pd_426315-37672-43560_1z0vrds+1z0yjl3+1z0yjot__?productId=4212340&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=0.375|#10

The Hillman Group 4-Count #10 x 3/8-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - http://www.lowes.com/pd_139065-37672-881544_0__?productId=3013084&Ntt=nylon+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dnylon%2Bwashers&facetInfo=

Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AEKJVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sponge Neoprene 1/16" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K7M1TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others things:
Velcro

I found a caliper to be useful ( I have a cheap harbor freight one, doesn’t need to be anything special)

Straight edge

Exacto Knife

Old mouse pad

3m Formula 77

Super Glue

painters tape


Here we go…
First I made a template using some thick card stock paper. I used an old file folder. Cut out the desired shape that will be the bottom layer. Make another template for the riser (this is where the caliper, straight edge, and exacto came in handy).

Cut out the shapes on your kydex. I used a table saw, for quick accurate cuts, however, I’ve heard people use a razor to score and snap the kydex ( I didn’t have much luck with this, I think the .08 kydex is too thick to do this cleanly).
Mark where you would like the tee-bolts and velcro straps to go on the bottom layer. I put the tee bolts slightly above center. Drill your holes using a bit as close to the thickness of the tee-bolt post as you can get, this helps prevent wobbles. Match the post holes on the second sheet of kydex, then measuring half an inch (doesn’t have to be half an inch, could be closer or farther depending on what you’d like) from center add as many additional holes as you desire. Make any drills and cuts before you mold, it will make life easier. Also draw center lines for points of reference.

I wrapped the stock in the neoprene to account for the added thickness during molding. (I eventually glue the neoprene to the inside of the mold to help protect the stock.

Heat the kydex and shape around neoprene covered stock. (Note, mark center points on the kydex and neoprene to easily align).

Tape the freshly molded kydex to the stock. You’ll mold on top of this soon and don’t want it shifting.
Wrap the old mouse pad on the base mold and secure with tape. The second mold will need to be a little wider so it rests on the posts nicely.

Heat the second layer of kydex and mold on top of the mouse pad. Again, pay attention to the center.

After they’ve cooled completely, remove them.

Apply the plastic weld to the tee-posts. Insert the tee-bolts in to the base layer so they are sticking outwards. I like the brad holes, as the plastic weld gets pushed out, they help secure them to the kydex when torque is applied. Wipe away any excess.

After the plastic weld has set, spray the inside of the mold with the formula 77 and insert the neoprene. The neoprene helps protect the stock from the metal tee bolts. This is optional, I did it to protect the stock. This can be tricky, use more neoprene then you’ll need and cut out the excess, that way you get good coverage.

Grab the nylon washers and put them on the tee bolt posts, I super glued these to the kydex to make life easier. You want the washer to be slightly thicker then the posts are high, this way the second piece of kydex is setting on the nylon washer and not the metal posts. Depending on which washers you have, you may want to stack a few on top of each other and glue them.

After every thing has set, attach the second mold of kydex and use the screws to attach to the posts. Adjust height as needed.

Edit two...
Also my cuts for the velcro are very sloppy, I should have used a router or my rotary tool, I may be retarded.

Yes clean around wound. The flap has to go. It’s going to bleed when it’s clipped but that’s good cause you’re getting healthy tissue with blood vessels. Self-Adhesive Cohesive Wrap Bandage Tape by LotFancy, Elastic Non-Woven, FDA Approved, 10 Rolls, Assorted Colors (2Inches x 5Yards) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6C91ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qNCLBbBSFG2VC
Remedy and Recovery Professional Groomer's Styptic Powder for Pets, 1.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PJ55KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xOCLBbAKS8A0G
Stash Tea Original Honey Sticks 20-3 oz Sticks Individually Sealed Portable Honey Tubes 100% Pure Clover Honey Kosher Certified Individually Wrapped Sticks of Pure Clover Honey, Sweeten Tea or Coffee https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I4PY1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gPCLBb9TNCZHV
Dealmed Gauze Pads, Non-Sterile, Non Woven, 2" x 2", 4 Ply, 200/Bx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63XDS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kQCLBbVN65JRZ
Manna Pro Theracyn Poultry Wound and Skin Care Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5XHK88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IXCLBb28EDCFH
Silver Nitrate Solution, 0.1M, 100mL - The Curated Chemical Collection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787GCSKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E0CLBb42XWGRC
SE CS100-6 100 Count 6" Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V0ZY2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G1CLBbQDJ3WQT
10 - Black Twist Open/Close 2oz Refillable Artist's Bullet Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N59CU9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.2CLBb6123ZF2
Swan Isopropyl Alcohol, 99 percent, Pint, 16 OZ (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZCCYTWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G4CLBb3V54WRP
Dynarex D1415 Povidone Iodine Prep Solution USP, 16 Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005R8580M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G5CLBbMTA0YK8
Squip Nasaline Salt-box Of 50 Pre-measured Packets, 400 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009EXQLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y7CLBbW76XN59
Teenitor 3ml Pipette, Top Quality Disposable Pipettes Transfer Pipettes 3ml Eye Dropper for Essential Oil Pipette Makeup Tool 110pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JXVGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y8CLBbG25KBC5
Save A Caf Sav A Chick Electrolyte Vitamin Supplement 3 PACK/.25OUNCE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UQOZC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19CLBb3BFM046
Gorilla 7500101 Super Glue Brush & Nozzle, 10 g, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A7AVQKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SgDLBbTME6VWX
MedPride Nitrile Exam Gloves, Powder-Free, Small, Box/100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GS8W2HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fiDLBb1X2K42G
Panasonic ES246AC Bikini Shaper & Trimmer for Women with Compact, Portable Design and Adjustable Trim Settings, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005JS5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjDLBbY10CSTW

Think that covers basics. Alcohol, self adhesive wrap, salt for saline, styptic powder, gauze, theracyn (antibiotic for superficial injuries), silver nitrate (only use with wooden applicators- strong cauterizing agent), pipette, electrolyte ( 1/16 tsp to 8 oz water. If chick is ill add honey for quick energy then mix solution with food to make mash), bottles, betadine ( I cut to 50% strength with saline), and gorilla glue with brush and dispenser. Oh and gloves and shaver:)

I agree I wasn’t to impressed with that orange that was shipped with the machine the quality of the material was just bad and never printed well. Oddly enough that seems to be the popular color when I do token gifts for the different holidays like Easter and such. I should order a wider range of colors as I always get asked if you have x color and I don’t.

As for storage I just went into Walmart and bought a simple food vacuum sealer and will just do a run when I have multiple spools open. I never thought of a ziplock bag I would assume if you could get it airtight it should work but even short term I would think it would work. Those storage bins I agree takes up way to much room so I never thought of them.

Now air quality has always been a question many ask and as far as PLA the general consensus is that it’s safe and should be non toxic. Now ABS that is a different thing that is toxic and depending on the brand just smells awful so that is something you need to vent the room. Some people will install air filters on their enclosures when they print that stuff. As far as all the other materials types I am not sure. I got a spool of carbon fiber and PETG but have yet to print with it. The wood pla I did print with had a little smell to it but I think was more from the sawdust than anything else. This glow in the dark dark material I’m trying out this week seems fine as well as far as I can tell. Guess it all depends on what chemical they use to make this stuff.

Let’s see for materials I got right now I have a roll of glow in the dark, carbon fiber, wood pla, pc-max white , black petg, and for pla I got black (multiple), white (multiple), red, blue, silver, gold, transparent neon yellow, and then a couple spools of abs I got free that will most likely never be used. Well I got that orange to but I basically don’t talk about it as I just hate the quality it prints at so it’s most likely just going to be be tossed at some point.

As far as what I print it’s basically what ever I find that I think would be fun to print with. Sort of similar with my color choices. I try and do something fun for the holidays as token gifts and they generally are a hit. Once I get enough time to learn fusion360 I do plan to create my own models just never feels like I got the time to.


So figured I list some things I bought/printed to use with my printer.

Thingiverse.com/thing:647425

• this is a set of stackable storage bins. I scaled them up going almost the full build plate on the length and width and just upped the height a little. I found these useful for multiple part prints as I can throw the pieces in them and keep them all in one place.
  
  Flesh cutters
  
• this it just handy if you need to trim a brim off a print
  
  Hobby knife
  
• this is a similar purpose as the flesh cutters just for when I need to trim something off a model
  
  Needle nose pliers
  
• just overall handy to have on hand
  
  Dremel
  
• this isn’t used much but I found it handy a couple times if I need to sand/cut a large piece off a print.
  
  Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Glue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
• this is just awesome to have when you want to glue parts together. It sets in seconds and it’s a strong bond.
  
  91% isopropyl alcohol
  
• this is handy for wiping off your bed before a print or just when ever you are having surface problems. I was using cotton swabs like you would use to remove makeup but lately I been using microfiber cloths and they work just as good.
  
  Stainless steel ruler
  
• I picked up a 12” one that has mm on it and just handy to have
  
  Blue painters tape
  
• this has come in handy for the times when prints don’t want to stick and for when I paint the prints
  
  Adjustable wrench
  
• this is great when you need to change nozzles on the printer as you can use it to hold the heat sink
  
  Socket set
  
• this is also for changing the nozzle just easier to prevent yourself from being burned just don’t over tighten the nozzle
  
  Digital caliper
  
• if you are going to make your own models this is just a must.
  
  Small file
  
• I bought a set of small files so I can sand off burs or other defects on overhangs and bridges. This is the set I bought but just what I thought would work.
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRCZKIX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Head lamp and small flashlight
  
• I don’t use these very often but I sometimes use the flashlight for seeing the first layer better and the head lamp is just handy when working on the printer so you have that extra light but not having to hold a flashlight.
  
  Can of compressed air
  
• just handy for removing dust or other material from the fans
  
  As for painting I bought a airbrush and such I don’t paint very often but maybe more in the future so I just have some basic stuff you buy with that. Sand paper in different grits, small paint brushes, paints, primer and so forth.
  
  Oh and never use acetone on your print bed it just dissolves the bed surface they use with there printer and destroys it.
  
  For oil I just been using a drop every now and then of some all purpose machine oil that I bought for the sowing machine and it’s worked fine. Little goes a long ways just cover your build plate before applying to keep any from dripping down. As for grease I don’t know I never used any and not sure what to suggest.
  
  But that’s basically what I got around my printer outside of the set of tools that came with the printer. It’s all stuff that at one point in time I found useful. Well that and a small trash can for all the scrap material from prints.
  At some point I want to design my own desktop organizer I know people got designs for them but I just want something personal.

Woodworker here. It's no problem at all to repair that break and end up with a neck that's more solid than before.

You can take it to a luthier and it'll be an easy job for them, or it's a pretty easy DIY job too.

Here's what I'd do: get a bottle of CA glue (super/krazy glue), a needle-tip glue injector, a clamp (a quick clamp would be fine, or any solid clamp with padded clamping surfaces to avoid marring the neck), a wiping cloth, and acetone (paint thinner or nail polish remover).

Gently force the break open slightly, and inject CA into several locations throughout the break. (The ideal would be to get a coat of glue across the entire surface, but that's not practical in this case.) You want to work quickly, as CA has a short working time, but don't rush. Once the glue is in place, immediately apply the clamp. I'd locate it directly on the first fret so it's central on the break. If using a quick clamp, get it as tight as it goes. A screw-based clamp should only be tightened to finger tightness, as those can apply much more force than a quick clamp and you don't need a lot of clamping force in this situation. If there's any glue squeeze-out, clean it up immediately with the cloth dampened with acetone. CA glue cures very quickly, so you can remove the clamp after only 5 minutes or so. Just to be safe, I'd let it sit for a day before restringing it.

The last thing to do to make it as good as new is to repair the finish. It looks like this neck has an oiled finish, so that makes things super easy. Feel across the entire joint. If you can feel the break at all, take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and gently sand the joint, going with the grain. It shouldn't take much effort to get it smooth. Finally, get some tung oil (make sure it's 100% tung oil, not "tung oil finish"), apply a small amount to a clean rag, and wipe a thin coat across the repaired area. Let it sit for a few hours, gently sand with fine grit sandpaper (absolutely no more coarse than 220), and repeat. I'd repeat this process for three or four coats. If you notice a different coloration on the repaired area and want to keep it even, then oil the entire neck. (Precautions for working with tung oil: work in a ventilated area, and dispose of your oily rags properly. Either burn them, or lay them out in a ventilated area (preferably outdoors) until they become hard and brittle, at which point the oil is cured and the rags can be thrown out. If thrown in the trash or balled up before the oil is cured, they can actually spontaneously ignite.)

Ok so This might get a bit long. and I apologize if you already know some of this, just being complete

tools:
I get most of this from 3-Rivers because they have everything you'll need but look elsewhere as needed. They also have some videos on there site on how to use the tools.

Taper Tool This will cut the taper for the nock and point. The 5° for the point and 11°C for the nock. Get the right size for the shaft diameter you use.
Fletching jig (answered elsewhere)
fletching glue: I use either Fletch-it or Gorilla super glue
Nock glue: same as fletching glue
Point glue: I use the Boehning Ferr-L-tight I have never had a problem with it them falling off even in the desert heat. Need a heat source; candle, alcohol lamp, etc.; to melt the glue to use. Some people use epoxy the main draw back is if you want to change or salvage points.
Something to cut the shafts to length.
Finish and or paint of your choice
pliers for putting on nocks if you use hot glue they will get hot
cup of water to cool the points when they are installed
Spine weight calculator My favorite tool for getting a starting point on the proper spine weight

components
Shafts: Lofts of good options with different properties but for simplicity right now go with Port Orford Cedar its is the cheapest option that I have found and the lightest. Pick either 5/16 or 11/32 depending on the spine weight you need.

Field Points Pick the same diameter as the shafts you selected and for simplicity go with 125 grain points. Because that is the weight that is assumed to be used in the spine weight of the shaft.

Fletching I assuming you want feather fletching if you're making wood arrows. Pick either shield or parabolic cut and the colors your want. Go with 4-5 inch long feathers.

Nocks Pick the size based on the shafts diameter and pick your color. These are the only nocks I'll use, there are others but they have never let me down.

Simplified Process
This can be done in groups just giving as doing one arrow for simplicity and once you know what your are doing some of these steps can be done in a different order

1. Straighten shaft
   
2. Cut nock (11°C) taper
   
3. apply a finish (polyurethane, Linseed oil, etc)
   
   • the cut nock taper helps if you are dipping the shafts to finish
     
   • I have had good luck rubbing on the finish with a cloth
     
   • Now would be a good time to crest (paint the shaft all fancy) and apply another coat of finish over that
     
4. cut to lenth
   
5. Cut nock taper
   
6. boil points to clean off machining oil
   
   • Yep, put them in a pot with water and a drop of detergent on the stove to clean them off. easiest way
     
7. Glue on points using hot glue (or epoxy and skip the steps below) Video from 3_rivers
   
   • get some melted glue on shaft
     
   • slide on field tip
     
   • put point over flame to melt glue and slide it on the shaft (use pliers)
     
   • Put point in cup of water to cool off.
     
8. Glue on nocks with super glue
   9 Fletch: The True Flight fletching guide does a better job of explain it than I ever could
   
   and you are done.
   
   It really is that simple. I have made (and broke) bunches of arrows so if you have questions ask away. I can elaborate on different parts if you have specific questions or wondering what to do when you get the parts in.
   
   
   
   
   
   

I did this in my 2014 forester with a new Nexus 7 LTE a 3.00 Black TPU case from Amazon and some strong little magnets.

Super simple install, looks really great in person, holds on strong, and is removable if you want to still use your tablet or to remove it for security. You can keep your stock deck also!!

1. Pop the trim off around your radio
   
2. Just below the hazzard button glue 3 magnets inside next to each other right in the middle.
   
3. Glue three magnets to the back of the case on the volume button side(If you use the other side your tablet will not turn on because it will trip the magnetic switch inside the nexus)
   
4. (Optional) If you don't want the magnets to mar your dash up put little rubber feet on the back of them.
   
   I've been using this setup to "Click" my nexus 7 over my radio for 6 months now with out an issue. The three magnets hold perfectly and stay on even when taking off ramps and not so sane speeds and off roading. I've only had it fall off once when the california heat caused the little rubber feet to melt off. I fixed this with super glue and it hasn't happened again.
   
   The parts that I used
   
   Magnets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KUURP2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Rubber feet:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBU8XLA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Glue:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IY82FM/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Case:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EENEE24/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   EDIT:
   The Nexus 7 also has a magnetic field sensor that you can use in Tasker to trigger when the tablet it on the dash. For mine I have it auto sense the magnets and open Car Home, and turn the screen timeout off, turn off Wifi, enable Bluetooth, and turn on GPS. Then when it's removed it closes Car Home, enables Wifi, disables bluetooth and GPS.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

Good questions. Yes there is Testors special glue for clear parts. It's basically PVA (Elmer's) glue and it has a fairly weak hold. Wood glue is a type of PVA glue - that's probably why you read that it will work. Let me list a few other options that I use.

​

1. Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer - This is like a Testor's clear parts glue (a PVA) but much stronger.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz/dp/B0006O8EVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3L2U59ZA98WJS&keywords=formula+560+canopy+glue&qid=1558440227&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+560%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   
2. SuperGold + by Bob Smith Industries - This is a very strong CA glue (superglue). It's special because it's a superglue (and I think the only one too) that doesn't release fumes and won't fog up clear parts.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-139H-Super-Gold/dp/B01FWZNQ1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=supergold+%2B+glue&qid=1558440381&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps

Do you have some Tamiya thin cement? I'm not sure if it is MEK or some variant of MEK, but what you want is MEK.

Something that isn't readily apparent is that most plastic cement is not an adhesive, it's a solvent. Model glue doesn't work like traditional glue in that it isn't a substance that acts as a chemical bond, it is a substance that melts the polystyrene and as it hardens, it becomes bonded. This is why model cement doesn't work on other materials.

If you're brave, you make a clean cut and use some plastic cement on both parts, Give it a few seconds and then brush on another quick coat. Hold it steady for a minute and leave it to cure for 4 hours (overnight preferably).

After that, you can make a putty/paste with some runner plastic and more cement and build up the area if you want more strength.

Alternatively, you can use some JB Weld plastic bonder. I keep a tube of this around for various fixes and it's great. I don't know how to reacts to polystyrene though, so you'll want to do a test piece first. If it works, it will be the strongest material on the model.

This is absolutely my favorite super glue.

https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-135H-Super/dp/B0166FFCFU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1466479588&sr=8-7&keywords=super+glue+bob+smith

It works pretty well with metal and absolutely fantastically with plastic. It's cheap. It's not stringy. It binds very well. It's really ideal.

My nails went to crap earlier this year, and the free edges were barely visible. I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out a way to protect my nails while they grew out. And even when they would grow out, they would break and tear again. The Sally Hansen maximum growth polish actually worked, but did nothing to strengthen my nails.

So I went the nuclear route. Using this method, it's kind of a pain, but I haven't torn or broken a nail since I've been using it. Now all of my nail free edges extend 6+mm, and they are practically bulletproof. Plus my nail polish last beyond two weeks, with zero chips. I will actually have to add polish to the inner part of my nail where it grows out a couple of times before I get tired of the color, and change it.

I use a thick super glue to adhere a silk nail wrap to my entire nail plate. I then add a second layer of silk to the very tip of my nails. This makes the nail HARD, and extremely durable, and also increases the thickness at the edge of my nail. The extra thickness, and rounded edges have eliminated inadvertently scratching myself due to the longer nails as they are no longer razor sharp.

I've then round the edge with a nail file, and wrap every coat of nail polish around the edge to the inside, so every bit of the underside of my nail is painted to match the top side of my nail. The nail polish adheres to the silk wrap many, many, many times better than it does my nail plate.

This is also a perfect way to repair a ripped, dented, or broken nail.

Gluing the silk to your nail plate is a tedious task. You don't want any of the glue to get down inside of your cuticles. The thick Super Glue does not set instantly. You have a good 20 seconds to get the silk into place and the excess glue wiped away from your cuticles before you use the accelerator to instantly set everything in place.

Regular nail polish remover will not effect the super glue/silk layer. Pure acetone will. So you can use a regular nail polish remover to remove the polish and repaint. But if you want to remove the glue/silk layer, acetone will be needed.

This is what I've been using. It's from Amazon, but you can also get the same items from Hobby Lobby. 💕E


❗❗ JUST DON'T EVER USE A THIN GLUE ❗❗


Supernail Swiss Silk Wrap Self-Adhesive Tabs, 40 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MFWH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_poZVDb2WR7EVW

Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-pZVDbR9TGP00O

I LOVE [Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue] (http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)

It is very strong and very easy to use with the squeeze control being built in to the container itself. It also dries in a couple minutes

This is what I use whenever a pop breaks. It works pretty good. I use it on a lot of things like acrylic, metal, wood etc. dries pretty fast also

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m6TpzbQKTCDFG

I usually use Gorilla brand super glue for plastic models. I'm sure any super glue will work well enough for a shelf model, though. Use a small amount; if you use too much it won't stick as well and will ooze out of the crack when you put it back together. I'd recommend gluing it after moving, so you're less likely to break it again. A fresh bottle always seems to be more potent than a bottle that's been sitting in a drawer for months. Also, don't eat the glue and don't glue yourself to the model. Is that everything? I think that's everything.

I think at it's core this is a design issue. Circles will always look best printed horizontally. However, with the arrow shape coming off of it, that makes print orientation tricky.

You could try printing it circle horizontal and use supports, but in this case I'd break it up into two separate prints that snap together. For added structural security, either use some acetone to weld ABS parts together or use glue like this for any other material. Print the circle horizontally, and print the arrow print so it looks like -> from the top.

Maybe try some epoxy? I don't own Black Heart, but if her sword is too heavy, then super glue probably won't cut it. This is the kind I used to repair my Kotobukiya Dark Angel Olivia: http://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-PC-Clear-Adhesive-Syringe/dp/B008DZ19WC

Olivia came apart at the base and she's a very heavy figure, but I used a little epoxy and let it sit for about 48 hours and it's still holding strong! If you're going the epoxy route, I was told to avoid the expanding, gap-filling kind (the one I linked isn't).

You can post on this thread in MFC if you have any questions in the future, by the way! I usually get a response within a day and people are very helpful! http://myfigurecollection.net/club/99/discussions/&did=1160

If you use Zap a Gap or similar they have a removable tip. It seems to stay very clog free with minimal buildup on the tip. Maybe the plastic they use has something to do with it, but my bottle seems fairly clean. That and I like the Loctite control type glues which have the squeeze sides. They tend to let me keep the tip clean as no glue seems to leak out unless I squeeze them. They also have great formulas imo. Gel or liquid depending on your needs.

I use loctite super glue on pla and it works great too. Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GY-UCbGDJ010B

That is -hilarious-. I put Gorilla Glue on my wishlist 2 days ago, because I'm looking to make my own magnetic spice-jars.. SWEET! I totally don't mind either the glue, or the magnets would be awesome, or even just a gift card to start me off saving!

guerilla gorillas

Altering is something I'm really enjoying. It's nice knowing your mini is different. To answer your questions:

The most difficult part with altering the sword was making sure I didn't cut the blades incorrectly leaving them too short or long, as well as making sure they were flush. Then it's just a matter of gluing them in place. I recommend picking up Loctite Gel Superglue. I'm finding it works well with Bones figures and gives you a lot more control.

The runes were part of the new blades I cut from the Rauthuros figure. I just dry-brushed them blood red, then highlighted using an extremely small brush.

I'll set to work on pictures of a couple other figures I have here next to me and make a new post for you to check out.

This is the el wire- excuse mobile

Lychee Neon Light El Wire with Battery Pack, 15 Feet, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wb-.zbMXQ6FDS

And I'd recommend using some scotch or painting tape with a fifteen foot string to trace out the path you want to glue down. It will make it much easier, but it does take a while.

Also, use gel glue. It's shock/water proof. I'd recommend 2 of those if you're using a full face helmet

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qe-.zbFH9CXFF

I assume the silicone sold to seal aquariums would be okay? Or is there another product I don't know about? (I found a blog that mentions that enamel paints once cured are safe, if so, I know how to use spray enamel to get a good thick clear coat. http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatfishblog/2014/12/23/decoration-diy-materials-aquarium-suitability/#.XNDkbehKiUk)

Would plugging the holes with marbles either epoxied or glued (I found this glue, it says its for corals but the photos show some glass work: https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-116H-IC-Gel/dp/B01FUGET5K/ref=pd_sim_199_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FUGET5K&pd_rd_r=d032ae1d-7069-11e9-a70e-fdfd69152f1b&pd_rd_w=Jozq9&pd_rd_wg=WJgHm&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=ZHK3JTG1GTQ1X72DQBAK&psc=1&refRID=ZHK3JTG1GTQ1X72DQBAK ) work to cover the rough spots? Most of this thing is very smooth, except two little spots that would have to be underneath whatever I use to block the holes. (I have these flat backed marbles that fit perfectly in the big holes, Stepmom is checking her bead supply for some smaller glass beads for the little holes.)

I suggest the LocTite Gel Control...... i use this stuff for miniatures and models all the time. Bonds plastic really, well, it's clear, easy to work with since it's gel (as opposed to super glue) and it dries in less than a minute.

You can find it at Walmart, Home Depot, etc.

It's nothing special I use a set of helping hands, with soft grips to prevent damage, to hold the parts while the glue is drying.

I use these helping hands, they came with silicone covers for the alligator clips but you can just wrap them in tape or something else.

I use Gorilla Superglue which dries clear and sticks very quickly if used in small amounts. I'm not sure if this is the best glue for pvc figures, but it works fine.

Here's a picture of me attaching one of the horns.

Man, this stuff is phenomenal and works in 5 seconds. Carpenters use it to glue corner joints and whatever else but its tensile strength is stronger than oak.

Ive used it for a reflector in my taillight and i bet i could punch it and it wouldnt break the glue joint.

link

Just make sure to wear gloves.

Considering the area of your average door is 1.652 square meters you need to convert $58.30 to pennies (USA currency only) to guarantee that you will have enough for what you plan to do. Then spend $20.95 on 5 of these plus we will figure another $5 for shipping. Your next step is to glue all of the pennies onto your favorite door, be it yours or the person of interest who you feel deserves to have a fantastic Christmas. The remaining $265.75 should be stored under your mattress, the only place where money should ever be kept.

I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.

Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!

Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.

Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.

4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.

I only really use superglue for magnets and the very few amount of resin models we have, but i really like this one: Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nb9KDbT7PGKD6 because i have an insane amount of control over the amount that comes out, it is a pretty small bottle as far as i can tell though so if you need a lot of glue, i wouldn't recommend it.

Could you provide some photos? I'm a big fan of CA glue, it sets almost instantly after you activate it, and it's super strong.

I don't know about other people, but I always love looking at pictures! I need to actually see something to visualize it. All the words in the world won't help me. That being said, what exactly is this project for? Can you slide a slightly smaller tube inside the two pieces to give more surface area? Where exactly is the bond failing? Some types of plastics (specifically Polyethylene and Polypropylene) may not bond too well at all.

Let the JB weld cure for a full 24 hours before touching it. When it comes to plastics, I've had good luck with Devcon's Plastic Welder, but again, it does not work on ALL plastics, and it may cure slightly yellow, although this says clear.

Exactly the same thing happened to mine. I used Gorilla brand super glue to fix it. Still going strong one year later. Would recommend.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-4044205-Superglue-15g/dp/B003CT4XT0

I read a study someone had done in the past few months, and oddly enough, testing PLA specific glues and other various specialty glues, the study concluded that Loctite Gel Ultra Control Superglue drastically outperformed all of the other glues as far as ease of use and overall strength bond. That being the case, I've been using it to assemble the 20" Voltron model I've been printing since Christmas and it's worked wonderfully.

link

A dab of super glue and you'll be back in business. I like the gel stuff. Really good.

super glue that i used

has worked great for reattaching an x-wing laser cannon and 2 pegs

my raider came with the front peg holder broken off, so every time i put it on or off peg i fear it will break again, but that damn super glue connection almost seems the strongest part of the ship now lol

Dube's got pretty good customer service. I'd send them an email and see what they think?

Otherwise, Shoe Goo is generally really good for fixing clubs. It's a glue designed to withstand lots and lots of impact.

This would be great to fill small dents in the floor. Just drip it in. Dries clear. If you use a wood putty of any kind, from 10 feet away, it will look like you dropped something on the floor https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474861033&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+glue

Sorry one last favor: could you recommend a CA?

I see the following that I looked up on Amazon, but if there is some other one you recommend, please do:

1

2

3

4

Look for 2p-10 that's reasonably priced.
I had a hard time finding this in Canada last time I looked, everything on Amazon was double us prices.

FastCap 2P-10 Super Glue Adhesive 2.25 Ounce Thick and 12 Ounce Activator Combo Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0006IUWCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cMJ4DbCGYNAWS


Special T ca glue can be bought from Lee valley with activator.

I bought special t 2oz bottle with activator BUT the nozzle design is terrible and the glue built up on the tip and the bottle wouldn't dispense or seal properly and most of it was wasted. I still use the activator but I buy 1oz bottles of gorilla glue brand now for about $10cad a bottle. It lasts me a very long time when I'm not doing trim. The gorilla glue brand had the best tip design, cap that I've found.

Yeah dude, just straighten them up and use some epoxy as Dogmai781 said, or better yet, some plastic welding methyl methacrylate such as this guy, my personal favorite.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

I can't comment on the brand, as I haven't used that particular brand, but tbh I really can't see how it would make any significant difference.

I prefer a thinner (lower viscosity) for finishing. You will need to apply a few more coats, but I feel it gives a smoother result. The second link in your post is much thinner, than the first, so for that reason alone I would recommend you try that.

This is the stuff I use, it has a viscosity of 2-3 CPS, roughly equivalent to milk or water (by contrast the first link you posted should have a viscosity closer to motor oil). I then spray from a distance of about 8" with a CA activator. Using this method I've never really had a problem getting a smooth clear finish.

Regarding the BLO, most of the people I've heard using this use it before the first coat of CA to try and 'pop' the grain. I can't really comment on it's effectiveness as a CA activator.

I use a combination of a Bohning Stripper (essentially a safer version of a craft knife) to carefully shave the vanes off and super glue remover to remove any remaining bits of glue. It converts cured cyanoacrylate glue to a gel like substance that is easily wiped off. I then give them a final wipe over with pure rubbing alcohol (IPA) before refletching.

Try getting Gel Superglue (like this). Apply a decent dob in the joints, then plop the arms in there and hold for 15 seconds. You can still move them a tad after, but they won't fall out. Let them set for a few minutes before putting any large amount of tension on them and you should be golden.

Second option is to use an accelerator, like this. Apply glue to the joint, then spray/dip the arm ball in kicker, and put it into the joint. This will set very quickly. It's also exothermic, so if you get glue on your hands and don't notice, then get kicker on there, it can be fairly painful.

Last, a helping-hands can be quite useful if you have it laying around. I use this one for electronics, and it works pretty well holding awkward model parts for letting glue set.

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

This is the stuff I use at work (computer repair); it works fine for gluing feet back onto laptops so it should be good for your keyboard. Pretty much any hardware store should have it.

The original LEGO design has the same design flaw - the magnets are just too strong. (kinda need to be) I tried to do this without using glue as well but at the end of the day, it really makes no difference. I would suggest Loctite. I used it with my lepin ISD and everything went fine. (almost 2 years now)

Just four dabs on the magnet holder studs will do just fine. The ones that have an extra lego piece, glue those 4 studs too. If I recall correctly, all the magnet location instructions should be fine and everything should line up but the glue really isn't all that permanent. I have sometimes pried off glued pieces using a knife and/or pliers with minimal damage.

If you are having issues with the wings falling apart, make sure to apply a lot of pressure on a flat, level surface to ensure all the long panels are inserted all the way. It takes a bit of force with the real LEGO pieces because of the size but sometimes a bit more with lepin.

I had a much easier time with the UCS Venator because of my UCS ISD lepin experience, but that one has some different issues.

No problem. CA is just super glue. I use Loctite Ultra Gel. It's nice and thick so I can apply it with a lot of control. I just use a needle in a pin vise to apply it and then once it's built up and dried on the needle, I burn it off with a lighter to refresh the needle.

What kind of paints are you looking for? It's hard to specify brands since they all kinda have their own place. I personally prefer to use lacquers out of my airbrush, so my go to paints for that are Mr Paint, Gunze Mr Color, and Tamiya. For brush painting, I like to use Vallejo Model Color acrylics. Ammo of Mig and AK Interactive have a good line of acrylic paints, but they don't brush as well, IMO, as Vallejo Model Color. You should be able to google them all and find them. If you need links I can get them, but I'm also on mobile right now so it's a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're in the US, I do my paint shopping at Hobbyworld-USA.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help.

one more thing you can do , especially on tricky parts, or parts that you have unsuccessfully mated is :

take a hobby knife or exacto, and make several dozen marks on the surface area (only where it will be covered up by the other part of course) make like a "cross-hatch" pattern of score marks with your blade on the matting surfaces of both parts.

that gives the glue hundreds of little valleys to seep down into and make an extra strong bond.

If that doesnt work, lol, then you have to pin it.

If THAT doesnt work, you just need to quit this hobby and go back to your PS4.


I really fail to understand your issue with the gorilla glue, i think it is the BOMB.

Are you using THIS???
http://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Original-Gorilla-Glue/dp/B0001GAYRC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-4&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Thats not what you want!!

You want THIS
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Another reason i love the gorilla superglue is it doesnt make nearly as much cyoacrylate stain (white stain from the fume or offgassing of the glue while curing)


I dont know why im talking so much about glue tonight.

Devcon Plastic Welder

info

hardware store/retail example packaging

...And other similar products (methacrylate plastic welding adhesives) like Loctite Plastic Bonder and Permatex Plastic Weld.

They are FAR more suited to doing anything with ABS and PVC than any epoxy, since:

1. they actually do WELD, since the methyl methacrylate monomer in the uncured resin is a solvent for many plastics; thus preparation is unimportant and bond integrity is inherently way better than any epoxy can possibly match
   
   
2. unlike hardware store epoxies, they are tough and impact resistant when cured, and match the mechanical properties of ABS and PVC well, for a seamless and low-stress bond
   
   The stuff is one of my most indispensable tools as a modder.

Try using debonder never allowed it to plastic but does great getting fingers apart.

https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-161H-Debonder/dp/B0166FFC96/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=super+glue+debonder&qid=1573921472&sprefix=super+glue+debond&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUEVQTjhBUFlPTThOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDA5ODU4MkhRWjAzVVhLSVhWSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDk2M1RWM1NOMzlRWVdWNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Any adhesive using methyl methacrylate (MMA) will work.

Devcon Plastic Welder Link

Loctite Plastic Bonder. It MUST SAY "Plastic Bonder" This stuff. Another link The loctite plastic epoxy without the word bonder on it doesn't work on the same materials. It inconveniently comes in the same color packaging.

I'm pretty sure there are others available but I don't know their names. If you look at the packaging and it says methyl methacrylate you should be good to go.

/u/Raviable

Gorilla Super Glue 15 Gram, Clear

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_81BvCb9WYWRQ3

Hey hey!!! I know your struggles, so not many students at my university knew this, but it's a quick way to glue stuff. Buy any cynocralyte glue, good one though like insta cure. Then buy an accelerator preferably one that sets clear. You only need a little bit of glue then as a drop of accelerator. Usually I would have small dab a glue and a small plastic I could put a small amount on bass wood the place and add drop of accelerator. Here is link to some

Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_28BGDb1PTXAZ0

I believe most hobby shops will carry it as it's used in model making

Make sure the only ingredient is cyanoacrylate. A lot of people (inlcuding me) use/recommend IC-Gel if you're going the super glue route.

It's just super glue. Sometimes the thicker gel type is more handy; I prefer something that's in between runny and gel. See if you can get some kicker as well to cure it instantly.

I use this for everything: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0166FFCHS/

I use a pin vice to drill the holes; I use wire (any kind will work; I've used sewing pins, paper clips, wire from a spool, piano wire... really, whatever I have within arms reach) for pinning. For the glue, I use Gorilla's Super Glue.

If I'm pinning a metal or resin model, during assembly (I don't worry about pinning plastic as it's usually light enough that plastic glue holds it together just fine), I drill my first holes, then I use a larger drill bit to flare out the entry points, so i have some wiggle room. This generally isn't needed when pinning to a base, but it helps if you want a very specific footing and you're not confident in your drilling.

Yeah, that 3M adhesive on the back of 5050 LED strips is pretty much garbage.

I just used a dot of super glue every 8 inches or so:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-g/dp/B001IY82FM/

Don't use too much superglue. It would be a bitch to remove if you ever need to.

I tend to buy superglue from my local grocery store. Any kind of “Gel” superglue is what I prefer to use. Loctite has always worked really well for me!

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

Here’s an amazon link as well

The same thing happened to one of my 3d printed PLA spinners. All you have to do is grab some superglue gel - like this kind, let it dry and stick your bearings in it and you are good to go.

Not a legit engineerer, but I do have a lot of experience with superglues (I'm a scale model builder).

Loctite sell a superglue debonder ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Glue-Remover-Removes-Stains/dp/B0001P0DKG ) which turns the glue to a gel.

I don't recommend heating it - do the opposite - freeze it.

Superglue becomes super brittle when frozen and tapping it on hard surface can cause it to break/free. Use a combination of freezing/tapping/deboning.

I used this; https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166FFCFU/

I'm going to try and slowly pry with a razor blade the panels off, see how it goes.

EDIT : Actually, the new PE parts I'd need to re-do are only 13 bucks. I'm just going to pop them off and re-order new so I can do it correctly. Won't take me but an hour. Then I can paint first and save myself suicide-by-micro-painting

I've found that the brush-on Krazy Glue bottles work really well and never seem to dry up. Most of what I use it for works better with a brush anyway.

How big is the crack? It'd be great to get an actual picture of it. I would just go over it with krazy glue and let it dry. If you don't think that will do it, you might be able to buy a replacement hinge directly from Sennheiser and do the repair yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/University-Arizona-Wildcat-Figurine-Antenna/dp/B005IB3N00

Plus

http://www.amazon.com/Barbie-Christmas-Morning-Slippers-Hairbrush/dp/B001JEH7ZW

Plus

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419287838&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41nNuDE7mbL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

= DIY masterpiece

I use this stuff -- its perfect. Has a really narrow tip so you can get glue in the sockets, and it doesn't drip/run.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=176369327477&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019699&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2263978452012469257&hvtargid=aud-646675773986%3Akwd-3949895385&keywords=loctite+control+gel&qid=1556204318&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Has anybody used Shoe Goo for instances like this? I use to use it during my broke skateboarding days and they worked pretty well for our shoes that constantly scrape across the grip tape/sandpaper. figured that would at least make climbing shoes last a little bit longer.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoe-GOO%C2%AE-Adhesive-3-7-Black/dp/B00135M0MM

Gorilla Super Glue. I'd probably use E6000. I use it on acrylic all the time now, though I've never tried it on cork.

I prefer super glue with an activator these days, I use this stuff. Sets in a couple of seconds and you can use it on places you won't be able to get UV light to cure the resin.

Use Super Glue Gel to attach it firmly to the shaft. It is waterproof after it dries:

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363589-Control-Adhesive-Bottle/dp/B003TP2TBQ

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue

Try something like these

J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yRZRDbA3W8TM7

J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iRZRDbXEJ04NG

It's very important to let it cure for at least a day or two. Even then it wouldn't be very structurally sound. I would recommend swapping the shell, but if you're not experienced it might be something you would have to pay to have done.

Edit: I should probably add that you should try to cover the PCB so you don't get any spillage on it. Tape would do fine.

Thanks yeah, it's mostly the removal of the old glue from the shafts that I'm most concerned with. I actually have one of those stripper doodads and it stripped the old glue off my shafts pretty well, but I'm concerned that some of the cyanos that dry rock solid could be a huge pain to remove.

Is the glue you're using this stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-g/dp/B001IY82FM

You could try some of this epoxy. You would just need to make sure to let it cure for 1 week to make sure it actually finishes. I've epoxied pieces of glass back together and it's really strong, but takes a long time to cure.

Ah ok, I ordered the stuff that Rockit cool recommended. I'll write up a similar post when all the stuff arrives.

Oh no sorry to hear that! I would use this
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519869341&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+ultra+gel&dpID=51RApY2mL2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I have never had any problems in the past with this glue. place VERY fine amounts on her finger tips. This is what I would do, and I firmly believe it will work out fine.

So sorry :(

Edit: I purchase this from home depot all the time, but amazon would work fine. Keep me posted!

I usually use superglue for situations like this. It tends to hold up better than nail polish.

Apply superglue to the peg, insert it into the slot and then take take the two apart and let the glue dry for a couple of hours before pegging them together again. This will make both the peg and the hole a little bit tighter and rougher which should help the parts stay pegged together better. My personal preference for super glue right now is Gorilla Superglue Glue w/Brush applicator.

As for the second problem, you could shave some plastic off of the peg but you're likely to find that after a few transformations the peg will start to loosen up naturally. If you're really worried about it, get some powdered graphite and use that to lubricate the peg hole a little bit. Powdered graphite won't degrade plastic and can be washed away with warm water if the peg starts getting too loose.

If it's actual Cyanoacrylate, then you'll need something like this. But I get the feeling your screen is going to be marked permanently regardless.

I recently had a similar problem with my 2013 corolla bumper. I used this Devcon plastic weld off amazon that I had bought from a previous LPT. I mixed up some of that, spread in inside the crack on both surfaces, pressed together. Then spread some more on both front and back of the crack. The next day, I put duct tape on the inside to provide a little more structure to the bumper. So far (about 1 month) its held up fine. The plastic weld says its sandable/paintable so if you wanted to then sand and paint it up to match you should be able to.

I did take the bumper cover off to do this, which is pretty simple.
http://imgur.com/a/ddezy

They wouldn't be soft anymore, but you could try using superglue the consistency of water (they make several varieties) to strengthen the material. Starbond

Even better, buy cyanoacrylate in a tub and have a ton of it for cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Starbond-Cyanoacrylate-Microtips-Woodturning-Stabilizing/dp/B00C32ME6G/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1523016707&sr=1-6&keywords=cyanoacrylate

Here's the one I was introduced to. Naturally, it worked well, so I have no reason to shop around brands. I'm sure any other brand would work as well, but we are creatures of habit.

https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487793551&sr=8-3&keywords=ca+ACCELERATOR

Note: it works with any superglue that is CYANOACRYLATE and you don't need that brand.

Do yourself a favor and check into different brands of glue: Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e4nIDb7KDMA0T

Use some anti blur gel on your lenses and rub some in your eyes. My friend recommended some and it didn't work for me , I fact it blinded me, Buuuut it might just work for you.
Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G



*typed using microsoft talk to text



/s

I tried ordinary gorilla glue but it wasn’t a fine enough applicator so I switched to gorilla glue brush and nozzle as it is easier to wipe on small parts such as the cane and it doesn’t smear because it’s much harder to apply too much with the brush.

There is a super glue debonder that might work.

https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-161H-Debonder/dp/B0166FFC96/

It might be a lost cause though.

Something like this would work too.

Pick up some of this Super Glue & Accelerator. I have fixed multiple counter-top chips like yours with this. drop the glue, then spray the accelerator so it hardens instantly, wipe with alcohol and build up the material. Sand to match the existing contours and boom....your done. If you do it right you can barely tell it is there.

I use CA glue plus accelerator... https://www.amazon.ca/Insta-Accelerator-Cyanoacrylate-Super-Glue/dp/B0068QEBAU

Spray the accelerator on one part, gad the CA glue on the other. Be vary careful to line up the parts before the glue makes contact with the accelerator side.

Instant bond, and less "whitening" than just CA glue alone.

---

More recently, I've gotten better at 3D pen skills, and I use the pen for "heavy use" connections. I still prefer CA glue for flat bonds or visible joints.

looks to no longer be available but I used this one from amazon. came quick too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCYV96C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

also ended up getting this clue because heard the tape wasn't as reliable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XNPQ4B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

don't know if links are available but we'll see. Took about 15 minutes.

this works really well removing Cyanoacrylate/super glue.

Bob Smith Industries has a CA glue remover that works really well on their formula of CA glue and should work for most other CA glues. This is the same stuff that HobbyTown and Hobby King sell under their own brand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFC96/

Devcon Plastic Welder.

It's strong stuff, but I don't think it's this strong.

Well do I have news for you! You don't need special glue that that's only made in the deepest mountains by reclusive monks. JB Weld makes a body panel adhesive that's compatible with PP. It's not even seven bucks and it's available at any Home Depot.

I use Gorilla Glue on everything including plastics, resins, and pewter. It hasn't failed me yet.

CA glue works well, but buy an "activator." It basically instantly hardens the glue.

Here's a decent set with both the glue and activator.
https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-157H-Insta-Set/dp/B0166FFCHS/

What I use.

It dries a little gray/cloudy, but I just try not to use too much and you can't really tell. I just add the drop, let it set a few seconds to start to dry (I scuff up the magnets with sandpaper as I wait), then use a Q-tip to remove excess.

This is the tutorial I used to learn. I use slightly different magnets and don't drill in too much. I don't mind seeing the magnet, but I do want it to stick well and lay flat.

Devcon!! or another plastic bonder that contains MMA
https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484501696&sr=8-1&keywords=devcon+plastic+welder

https://www.amazon.com/Shoegoo-Shoe-GOO%C2%AE-Adhesive-3-7/dp/B00135M0MM

uncure link
Just Incase anyone else ants to know

Right product/reasonable price?

+1 this tip. I recommend the super glue gel to keep it from dripping into the headphone jack, possibly causing further issues.

I found this works great for that application:

2P-10

http://www.amazon.com/Eclectic-Shoe-Goo/dp/B00135M0MM

I would use this to stick it back

http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM

I'd just glue the magnet back on, but maybe that's just me.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Brush-Nozzle-Applicator/dp/B01A7AVQKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540794545&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brush+gorilla+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51RrMGGfh8L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UPES2QIS7N6M&keywords=gorilla+super+glue&qid=1556923885&s=gateway&sprefix=gorilla&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

For the base:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OSJ2RIW/

For the column:
https://www.amazon.com/Non-Stick-Silicone-Containers-Storage-Assorted/dp/B07CVWY3YY/

To put it together:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-15-Clear/dp/B001IY82FM

Krazy Glue KG92548R Instant Krazy Glue 0.18-Ounce All Purpose Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSFSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YR7VCbVTZ48T1

Shoe Goo

Cufflink Backs + Superglue.

Use some Gorilla Glue for it.

Amazon - Gorilla Glue

shoe goo, most likely.

That's why I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009EU5ZNO/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3/133-6347891-1528703?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DQJZMCZACMRNPTND9FN8

Keep trying Alex whom uses US Bank...

This should do it https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IY82FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497723614&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gorilla+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51mHX2GDBrL&ref=plSrch

You can try using Gorilla Glue to paste the head back on. That thing can glue almost anything together.

I used this glue -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G/

I really tried to use as tiny amount as possible and kept it closed while it dried. It was a little stuck when I opened it, carefully scraped the parts that needed it. Definitly still waterproof per light testing.

You could try shoe goo. It’s intended for all manner of shoe fixes. I’ve heard wildly varying reviews on its effectiveness, but I know some people who swear by it.

That's a threadlocker and won't work - used for screws.

This is what I got
https://www.amazon.ca/Loctite-ULTRA-Control-Super-Glue/dp/B003TP2TBQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457979900&sr=8-2&keywords=Loctite+Gel+Control+Super+Glue

1/4 inch birch from home depot. Durablack labels, axle pegs, Gorilla glue and steel brackets. Because the laser leaves a char, glued joints are not that strong so I like the bracket / peg arrangement. To make, glue edge of each piece, knock together. When done, stick in the pegs, use a japanese flush cutting saw to whack off excess peg. DXF file is here.

Debonder! There are CA debonders that are much less likely to damage the board while removing the glue. All is not yet lost!

Krazy Glue works miracles. A little drop goes along way. It is how I covered my driftwood with Java and x-mass moss in my 20 gallon. Unfortunately I think you will have to take the rock out. I suppose you could use hot glue or aquarium sealant too.

After seeking the guidance of all you gurus (https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/4tkx3v/taking_the_plunge_with_magnets/), I finally went ahead and did it.

Components:
Ring Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Ball Bearings https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Gorialla Glue https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM
Dremel 4000 https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-3-34-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVQ
X-Acto Knife http://www.michaels.com/10223579.html#q=x-acto&start=10
Pliers http://lmgtfy.com/?q=pliers

My process for the ships was as follows:

• Remove the peg carefully with pliers
  
• When necessary, modify the ship with Dremel 4000
  
  • T-65 X-Wing engines cut
    
  • HWK-290 sanded bottom
    
  • TIE Phatom engines cut
    
• Apply Gorilla Glue and ring magnet (K&J's R421)
  
  My Process for the stands was as follows:
  
• Cut the nub off the peg with an X-Acto knife
  
  • For the B-Wing stand, instead apply the peg removed from the B-Wing
    
• Use an engraving bit on the dremel to make a divet for a ball bearing
  
• Grasp the ball bearing (K&J NSB3) with pliers and quickly sand it against a piece of sand paper
  
• Apply gorilla glue to the top of the stand, and place the ball bearing in divet
  
• Quickly run a paper towel around the base of the bearing to catch excess epoxy
  
• Power sand (with dremel) once set