Reddit mentions: The best on-camera video lights

No problem dude.

So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AekKwgvS5K0 ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.

Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBS52YI/ref=psdc_11974581_t3_B007534LFK . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Advanced-Broadcast-Microphone-accessories/dp/B00N39J0LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-4&keywords=shotgun+mic https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-5&keywords=shotgun+mic . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.

Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503160499&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+light . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.

For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. http://www.masteringfilm.com/tips-for-directing-actors/ . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.

Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.

I would purchase things that are relatively affordable (this tascam lav works great with auto levels and is totally worth the money) and rent things like lenses (and camera if you don't have something that's decent) that you'll definitely need but are a large upfront cost.

My essential gear would include:

• Camera (needs to be HD, but you don't need a $3k camera if you're just starting out.)
  
  
• Lenses- at least a wide and a decent zoom. For us, we just run a Canon 24-105 for most of the day (it's a beast of a lens and you can almost get away with only that) but it's also good to have something like a 70-200 so you can get closer shots if/when you're at the back of the ceremony. You can definitely rent these, and they're probably the best thing to rent starting out.
  
  
• Tripod and monopod. I would have a tripod just to be able to be locked down for the ceremony (sometimes it's exhausting trying to keep a monopod stable for a 30+ min ceremony) and run the monopod the rest of the day. Benro make a decently affordable monopod or you can go with this Manfrotto monopod. We have two of the Manfrottos and they are the best. I can't speak for the quality of the Benro because I haven't used their monopod, but they have a great warranty and great customer service on their stuff.
  
  
• A video light. You will absolutely need a light on your camera. I've been in ceremonies and receptions that seemed like they were barely candle lit. You will probably never run a light during a ceremony but you'll definitely need it during receptions. Luckily LED lights are cheap these days. Something like this light or even this little light will be fine starting out. I run that cheap little light with the included orange filter on it almost every wedding and it works great.
  
  
• Microphones. You should have one on camera mic (for ambient noise for the whole day) and one lav mic (for the groom during the ceremony).
  
  
• Audio recorder. I would definitely have this along with some different cables. You can buy cheap cables for now from Monoprice or something. A recorder like this tascam will probably be fine for now.
  
  I also want to add- DO NOT BE AFRAID TO BUY USED GEAR especially from Adorama or B&H as long as it's listed in good condition. Everything I've bought used from those companies (when listed in good condition) has felt brand new.
  
  As far as advertising- the only thing I've seen really work for people is showing up to those Bridal shows and handing out cards and just talking to people. Besides that it's just word of mouth. But you'll need work to show potential brides. If you have never shot a wedding, I would reach out to wedding coordinators on WeddingWire/The knot/ anywhere you can and offer your services for free for one wedding. We did this and it was how we got started. Now I probably messaged 30+ coordinators and only one responded, but we built a great relationship with her and got our first 5+ weddings that way. The way I worded it was basically "we'd like to film a wedding for someone who did not intend to have a videographer (i.e wasn't in their budget at all). We want them to be aware that this is our first wedding and we do know how it will turn out."
  
  Anyway, I'm really rambling here. Hope this info was helpful. We've been shooting weddings for the last 3 years- so long enough to know what we're talking about but short enough to remember how we started and what we did wrong.

yeah, i'd do that with any camera tbh and keep the in-camera audio as a back up, just because the pre-amps on consumer cameras tend to generate a lot of hiss.


if that's the case-- if you want sharper video and 60p for slow mo/a better camera for whenever you want to shoot stills, either the a6000 or its cheaper sibling the a5100 are great options. the a6000 is a little easier to use ergonomically because of its hotshoe and viewfinder, and only about $100 more. The a6000 doesnt have a mic jack, but there's a pretty decent shotgun stereo mic that sony makes that plugs directly into the hotshoe to work for about $100.

i'd also definitely recommend going for the native 50mm 1.8 or 35mm 1.8 with OSS in them-- they're not too pricey, especially used, and the stabilization and video AF in both are surprisingly decent.

Panasonic also has some really good options, namely, you can get a used GH2 or G6 for under $300, both of which do great video.



But I'm not going to recommend either of those. Instead, I'm going to recommend the EOS M. You can get one with the pancake 22mm f/2 kit lens for under $300, easily. Yes, it's soft 1080p, but:

>1: it has a mic jack and hotshoe, and with magic lantern, you get pre-amp control, audio levels, and focus peaking to fix its ergonomic failings


>2: its image quality in stills mode is excellent


>3: that leaves you with as much as $250 (even less!!!) for other lenses and or lights + mics + etc


>4: it's mirrorless, so you can adapt basically any mount for it


>5: its the canon menu system, so you're used to it, and if you're shooting for web, soft 1080p is ok-- basically all video on the web is upscaled 720 at best with Youtube's garbage compression & Vimeo's very wise move to default at 720p for streaming. More importantly, canon has great out-of-the-box skin tones, decent 3rd party options for flat profiles, and does skin tones better than anyone (though samsung comes close).

>6: with the amazing 22mm pancake lens, you can literally fit it in your pocket, with a sharp, fast, wide lens. don't underestimate that. I'll never, ever be getting rid of my EOS M for that very reason.

if you're willing to chance it with a no-return ebay listing, this is an insane deal for it at $200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-Black-Kit-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-Extras-/301852333911?hash=item4647cd1757:g:xmcAAOSwUV9WntSq


edit: here's a listing that does offer returns and isnt expiring in 25 minutes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-SN401090-Near-Mint/252261698510?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3D9cc556ced6ae4eb2988415606b2afa1e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321987815557&rt=nc


Edit 2:

If you go with the eos M + 22mm at $250, that leaves you with:


-$125 for a solid ravelli video tripod (less if you search CL or ebay)


-this Takstar mic for $30-- it's 90% as good as a Rode/AT, and its actually easier to work with in post (which you'll need to do with in-camera audio) http://www.amazon.com/Takstar-SGC-598-Recording-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E1D2LTA

-this 50mm f/1.8 manual focus lens for approx. $30 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANON-LENS-EX-50-MM-1-1-8-/262261014275?hash=item3d0ff97f03:g:oHMAAOSwNSxVdKLd (requires a cheap adapter for an additional $16: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AEMFD-Mirror-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00ACYTWFI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453854045&sr=8-2&keywords=ef-m+fd)

this LED camera light for $30: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854327&sr=8-3&keywords=led+camera+light

This hotshoe extender for $12: http://www.amazon.com/Movo-HVA20-Heavy-Duty-Accessory-Microphones/dp/B00HTWF7MS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854366&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=hotshoe+extender&psc=1

and finally, this cold-shoe grip + extender, for using this tiny camera on the go with a mic for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Movo-SVH6-Stabilizing-Extender-Olympus/dp/B00YQD94RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854193&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cold+shoe&psc=1

This is a little over $500, so you could drop 1 or 2 of the accessories, but this will do way more for you for your money.

I recently picked up almost everything on this list so I can give you an honest opinion and I'm a vfx artist trying to get out there and shoot my own content.

The fisheye....we never use it. We shot a prom and that was the only time we used it, and that was for b-roll because the kids loved it.

Definitely pick up the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. It's such a great lens! I almost use if for everything I do, but it's also good to have a wide angle lens. I currently use one of my buddy's which is a Canon 17mm-85mm.

Nodal Ninja I haven't seen before, but looks great.

Video tripod is good, I use a Manfrotto 502 but it's way more expensive, so this looks like a decent alternative. Also, the quick release plates are awesome. You'll eventually want to pick up tonnes of these. I used 2 yesterday to put on both the bottom of my new slider, as well as the top. I have one on my cage as well.

You can probably do without the Shoulder Rig for now. You may consider using the Kamerar Tank 2 cage with rail system to hook up the Kamerar Follow Focus. I found that once I got my Tank, I just disassembled the shoulder rig and never used it since. The Glidecam is something that I've been considering as my next purchase. Check out my thread asking about the glidecam.

Definitely grab the NTG-2 and possibly a Zoom H4N. The sound quality is fantastic. You need an XLR cable, windshield, boompole, and a shock mount.

Kamerar's Follow Focus is solid. It gets a little cramped using a smaller lens, the follow focus, and a matte box though. You have to tinker with teeth to learn how you need to set it up properly so that the teeth don't slip.

The Matte Box, while nice to look at, hasn't proven it's worth to me. I shoot with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and because the lens is so short, the matte box does very little to block out light. I just got the new "donut" in the mail yesterday so maybe that will help, but I wouldn't advise getting it when you can spend that money on something else.

And the backpack is pretty awesome, definitely worth picking up. If you travel to shoots I would recommend the Pelican 1510 to store all your stuff in.

I would also recommend grabbing a couple LED lights and the batteries and charger. These things are a life saver. I'll be picking up a third this week.

I hope this helped you out a bit. Like I said I was in a similar situation to you a couple months ago, but everything's coming together now. If you have any more specific questions about any of this, let me know. Take care.

While I did not write it, I was heavily involved in the production as Cinematographer and Associate Producer for the 2016 film Layover (not 2017 The Layover), which we produced for around $6,000.
Trailer (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEAoz4uluc4)
When you are writing to produce yourself (individually or as a cooperative effort) you need to really asses your assets and be completely honest while making your top sheet budgeting.

The Top Sheet

This is the most important part when writing and producing for low budget. Before you start typing, make a treatment and start plotting your Top Sheet.

A Top sheet is a estimate of your budget. Tongal has a pretty neat template in their website.

Why doing this? So you can keep your budget constrains before you even type a word of your script.

While writing your treatment, you can start adding items to it. Do a bit of googling to find estimates and round up (this is the part of being honest about it, as you can't always get the best price, or you might have overseen the sales tax, etc.). The moment you type "They are arrested by the police" check the internet for how much you can rent a cop uniform and props and add it to your top sheet.

Once you are done with your treatment, look at your top sheet's total. If you are over, it's time to start cutting stuff out.


What will affect your top sheet? Everything you don't already have.


Your assets

Look around you. What do you have access to? Make a list of:

• Locations
  
• Props
  
• Actors
  
• Crew
  
• Equipment
  
  _____________________________
  
  Props and locations
  
  Based on your props and locations, choose a setting. Limit your locations to those you have access to.
  
  For interior locations, the easiest and cheapest options is to go for your or your friends places, but you can try using Airbnb. You can scout locations through their website and have access to properties you wouldn't dream of ever having for relatively cheap.
  
  This being said, you don't necessarily have to settle for a "regular people drama" set in houses. It is the easiest, no doubt, but not your only option.
  
  Horror is another viable option and pretty forgiving genre. "Campy" in horror, can be a virtue.
  
  You can be really creative here and use green screen and small sets built in your spare time to do sci fi. You can go to the desert and shoot a film about a stranded astronaut in mars, for example.
  
  Green screen, while seems a good solution, can get either expensive or incredibly time consuming. It requires a lot of planning, but it's doable. Avoid digital integration of CGI characters as, unless you are Weta you are going to have a hard time selling the effect. If you must, non-organics are way easier to make look realistic.
  
  Using Matte paintings can be relatively easy if you are good at photoshop (and After Effects, to apply it) and can expand the possibilities of your setting.
  
  Actors
  
  Shooting for almost no money might limit your casting options. You might be lucky and find extremely talented actors hungry for experience or you might know a remarkable actor willing to do it for free or for sag minimums.
  
  If you can, try to make the production non-union, but if you can't, allocate budget for it. Even with some of the most affordable agreements (depending on your distribution) you still are supposed to pay minimum wage.
  
  If you talent is so-so and that's the best you can get, don't write over dramatic scenes where we will see their flaws. Try to keep it simple.
  
  Crew
  
  The bare minimum you will need is the director and a sound guy. But this is a very stressful setup, especially for the director that would be producing, dpeing and directing. If you can, get a crew of 4 people:
  The director, a DP, a sound guy and a producer.
  
  Equipment
  
  Equipment should be your last concern. You can shoot a movie with a phone in 4k nowadays.
  
  For out production of Layover, we used a Canon 5D MKII (at the time it was already a 6 year old camera) which was what I had available at the time. Shooting 1080 requires more planning and getting more shots than 4k or 2k, but it's also more affordable to work with. If I were to shoot it today, I would have go for a Sony a7s II.
  
  Using this kind of cameras can make your production way easier. They are small and discrete, they have excellent quality and in the case of the a7s II, you cam get away with less powerful lights.
  
  Lighting equipment.
  
  We didn't break the bank here. We used a YN-300 which costs around $50 (a bit more at the time) and china balls.
  
  China balls are DIRT cheap ($6)and give a beautiful lighting. You will need a fixture and a dimmer that can hold at least 250w, which would cost you together like $20 (Ikea used to sell them). The bulbs are about $6 a piece.
  
  But, you can use household lightbulbs and cheap clamp reflectors. You can remove the reflector dish and use the fixture in your china ball (respect the wattage limits to avoid fires).
  
  
  Xmas lights: This is a cheap thing everyone has laying around and can enhance your scenes by creating a background.
  
  That was about all the lighting equipment we used.
  
  ADDITIONAL EXPENSE USUALLY IGNORED BY FIRST TIME FILMMAKERS:
  
  
  FOOD
  
  You are going to have to feed this people. It's the least you can do. If you keep your days short, at the minimum, you will need water and some snacks. Don't forget it in your top sheet.
  
  ________________________
  
  Conclusion:
  
  
  Gather all the elements above, put them in your Top sheet and tweak your treatment until you find a budget you are comfortable with.
  
  
  Keep your logistics as simple as possible to avoid nasty surprises. So maybe don't shoot your film in 20 different locations with 20 company moves, but try to limit it to a number you can manage. Time is really money. The more days you shoot, the more money it will all cost.

First, let me preface this by saying that I'm fairly new to the video arena myself (coming from event photography), so take my comments with a grain of salt:

1. As has already been mentioned, the footage is definitely very shaky. Buy or make yourself a shoulder rig - this can be done for as little as $40-50 and an afternoon of building. If you want to buy something that looks über professional, I would seriously recommend GiniRigs. (More on that below.) If you can't afford one or it isn't a big financial priority right now, google "DIY DSLR shoulder rig" or go take a look at DIYPhotography.net, which is a great resource even if you aren't particularly handy.
   
2. Your focus isn't locking in very well. Racking focus from out to in looks great, but racking it slightly too far and then having to come back looks amateurish. Also, there are a number of shots that just aren't in focus at all. Given how sharp some of the focus is, it looks out of place.
   
3. I agree that with AssMolasses (and now I'm sure THAT comment is going to bite me in the ass in search results later) in that your brightly-lit kitchen looks great... with one exception: the flame of your stove. I want to see those flames! Unfortunately, they're being washed out by the white stove surface. Plan exposure to enhance whatever your subject is. It doesn't have to match 100% - just make sure it doesn't look mismatched, either.
   
4. Keep an eye on subject movement. A number of the objects with which you're interacting shake and jitter during shots. (For example, turning on the sink water, grabbing the kettle, etc.) It clearly isn't the camera - that's nice and stable (tripod) when this occurs. But you're jolting the objects a little, which makes the entire thing look less smooth. Slow down just a little. Take a look at coffee commercials that involve people actually making the coffee - movement is often slowed down a bit. Think about how you would be moving if you were just waking up and it was lazy Sunday morning. Don't think about being rushed to get out of the house, or about how you'd feel once you drank the coffee - imagine that you have set aside your entire day just for the process of making and enjoying the coffee, and move accordingly.
   
   Shoulder rigs
   
   Ignore the rest of this post if you aren't interested in buying a shoulder rig - the remainder is commentary on which rig I bought, why I bought it, what's on it, and how I put it together.
   
   I would recommend GiniRigs. The following will sound a bit like a plug, but I really do think they're a great value for the money. As far as I can tell, they're basically copying some of the more popular designs out there at a fraction of the cost, but better quality than I'd expect from, for example, a cheaper Chinese knockoff.
   
   I recently bought a shoulder rig and slider package from GiniRigs for just over $500 that looks like something from Zacuto, but for a quarter of the price. The package included their Advanced Extreme 17 rig and their G8 Slider for $499 (the slider was essentially free), and I also added an extra 1.6g kg counterweight for 60% off. Shipping was $30, which is kind of insane considering I ordered the kit on a Friday and got it on Monday - from Korea. It's worth noting that the kit also came with a follow focus that GiniRigs normally sells for around $300. This follow focus appears to be modeled very closely after Cinevate's "Durus" follow focus (which goes for $1,400), and it is really similar to it. My total, out-the-door cost including shipping was $668.40 for all of the above.
   
   Build quality was generally very good, though one particular thumb knob was a little sticky. (Note: your thumbs will be sore for days after you first build, teardown, and re-build your rig. Don't worry - it gets better, kind of like learning to play the guitar.) The really cool thing about their rigs is that they aren't really "rigs" per se - they're a collection of parts that, once assembled, make a rig - kind of like Legos or an Erector Set. The Advanced Extreme 17 rig has enough parts to make around a half-dozen different rigs, ranging from a simple single-handle shoulder-rig to a full-blown, double-handled, counterweighted rig with a cage around 7/8 the diameter of the camera. (Buy an extra body arm if you want 100% coverage.)
   
   About which rig to build: I built something roughly akin to what you see in the photo, with a couple of modifications due to counter-weighting a particularly heavy camera kit: a Nikon D800 with either the 14-24 f/2.8, 24-70 f/2.8, or 70-200 f/2.8, plus a Sennheiser ME 66/K6 in a Rode Blimp (sometimes in the housing, sometimes using a Rycote Softie) connected to a Tascam DR-100 (which is about to be replaced by a Zoom H6, and a Neewer 160-LED video light. However, with all of that gear, even a 1.2 kg + 1.6 kg counterweight on an extra-long pair of 15mm shoulder bars isn't sufficient to counterbalance it. I don't find myself using the cage for much more than the top handle, so I'll probably be removing it to conserve weight and be (slightly) less prominent.
   
   Here is a decent video review that helped me make my buying decision. This is very close to the rig I purchased - GiniRigs seems to regularly revise the specific parts that come with their rigs. Speaking of prominence, listen to the reviewer's commentary at 4:23 on the rig grabbing attention when he was shooting an event - this can be a factor.
   
   One note about making sure you're actually buying GiniRigs from the right folks: apparently GiniRigs has an impostor who is buying and reselling their gear and pretending to be them. They told me that they were mid-lawsuit about a month ago, and that the Facebook Profile as well as http://ginirigs.com/ (which seems to have gone down - maybe they won the lawsuit?) was by the impostor. For "real" products with an actual warranty, buy from GiniRigs-USA.com or, if you're in the UK, GiniRigs.co.uk.

/u/ThomasTheIdiot - I started with a Canon T2i and, although they are great still cameras, I would avoid Canon DSLRs for video.

Here's why:

In this price class, DSLRs (e.g., the T6i) lack:

• video resolution higher than 1920 x 1080p ([here] (https://youtu.be/J4FDn8YX4Ao) is why you want to shoot 4K, [here] (https://youtu.be/kIf9h2Gkm_U) is why material originated at 4K looks better on a 1080p monitor than material originated at 1080p, and [here] (http://www.rangefinderonline.com/features/how-to/Getting-Acquainted-with-Offline-Video-Editing-to-Ease-You-Into-4K-8988.shtml) is how to handle editing 4K material on older machines by using proxies)
  
  
• a usable viewfinder when you switch to "Live View" (video) mode (the optical viewfinder is blocked by the reflex mirror)
  
  
• compatibility with affordable power zoom lenses
  
  
• frame rates higher than 30 frames per second at 1080p (modern cameras record at 60 fps in full HD [at least])
  
  
• built-in intervalometer for timelapse (yes, you can fix this with Magic Lantern, but you shouldn't have to). Instead, I recommend a [$497.99 (on sale) Panasonic G7 with the 14-42 kit lens] (https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-Mirrorless-14-42mm-Megapixels-DMC-G7KS/dp/B00X409O6O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  This camera has 3840x2160p Ultra High Definition "4K" resolution (4 times the resolution of the T6i or any Canon DSLR below $3000), a built-in intervalometer for timelapse and a maximum frame rate of 60 fps at 1080p for smooth slow motion.
  
  In addition, mirrorless cameras use electronic viewfinders (EVFs) that are usable while you record video - EVFs also display important audio information and histograms that you don't get from a DSLR optical viewfinder.
  
  Uniquely in this category, it can also record for hours continuously at 1080p (DSLRs in this price class shut down after 30 minutes of continuous recording and have to be restarted).
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce at 4K (please set YouTube and Vimeo to 2160p and watch at your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  Narrative
  
  
• [Your Own Size - (Short Film) Panasonic G7 with Kit Lens by Spectrum The Originator] (https://youtu.be/_umc7arlep0) (2160p)
  
  
• [Unfigured (2016) short movie - filmed with Panasonic G7 by AgnosLibertine] (https://youtu.be/tfTqjeVn-tU) (2160p)
  
  
• [LUMIX DMC-G7 Sample Video in 4K by Colin Witherill] (https://youtu.be/fZllpp_y8Is) (2160p)
  
  Action
  
  
• [The Asset | Fight Scene | Learning Filmmaking | Panasonic G7 | 4K Ultra HD by Nisu Productions] (https://youtu.be/WAwL_d22UoI) (2160p)
  
  
• [Jumper - short film (4k) Shot with Panasonic G7 (21:9) by RYSE] (https://youtu.be/sf4skunfRv4) (2160p)
  
  Wedding
  
  
• [Wedding Day | Dior & Lada Lumix G7 4K music cinematic video by Alexandr Blanco] (https://youtu.be/ecQXK3EQ8hk) (2160p)
  
  
• [Hannah & Alex Wedding | Cinematic Video | Central Park, NYC | 6.30.17 by Vudio Media] (https://youtu.be/8hvUhv2WxRc) (2160p)
  
  
• [Wedding Day | Andrey & Kseniya Lumix G7 4K music video by Alexandr Blanco] (https://youtu.be/1p3MfD9_42s) (2160p)
  
  Documentary
  
  
• [Fotograf Anna Ejemo] (https://youtu.be/N5jQhqm-26I) (2160p)
  
  
• [Indianapolis 500 in 4K] (https://youtu.be/q4OPPUH5FsE) (2160p)
  
  
• Automotive
  
  
• [Ferrari 360 modena F131 by sumizooN] (https://vimeo.com/167509280) (2160p)
  
  Travel/Nature
  
  
• [Weekend by Albert Fast] (https://vimeo.com/166234439) (2160p)
  
  Timelapse
  
  
• [Voigtlander Nokton 10.5mm F0.95 Lens - Examples on a Panasonic G7 [4K]] (https://youtu.be/zLIc0n9K8Pk)(2160p)
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too: https://www.flickr.com/groups/panasonic-lumix-g7/pool/
  
  In my view, this is a much better camera for filmmaking than the T6i and the best still/video camera you can buy in your price range. Here is the gear I recommend to go with it:
  
  Support
  
  
• [3POD V3AH fluid head tripod with crutch style legs, a quick release plate and bowl leveling - $79.95] (https://www.amazon.com/3Pod-V3AH-Anodized-Aluminum-Quick-Release/dp/B00F8VU3CQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  Audio
  
  
• [Rode VideoMic Studio Boom Kit with windmuff, Boom Stand, Adapter, 25' Cable - $199] (https://www.amazon.com/VideoMic-Studio-windmuff-windmuff-Adapter/dp/B00ISKJJ5Q//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  Studio Lighting and Backdrop
  
  
• [Julius Studio 3x 216 Barndoor Continuous LED Video Lighting kit - $129.99] (https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Barndoor-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B0189TA68O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  I recommend green photographic paper for background, as seen in [this video from Wistia] (http://wistia.com/learning/diy-office-video-studio):
  
  
• [Savage 9' x 36' background paper for chromakey - $69.95] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B782NO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000B782NO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• [Duck Brand 1265018 Color Duct Tape, Neon Lime Green - $6.08] (https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-1265018-Inches-Single/dp/B002TOL45K//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  This setup will cost a total of $982.96, and will give you the ability to produce well-lit, Ultra High Definition "4K" content with decent sound.
  
  If you can leave the camera, lights, mic boom and green screen background set up in a corner of an office or bedroom, you will have a basic chromakey studio with which to add visual effects.
  
  If you buy the G7, you might also want to subscribe over at /r/PanasonicG7 - lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck getting started!

I don't have a whole lot of experience with the built in flash as when I used it I didn't have much luck with it. It isn't very powerful but I have seen youtube videos showing how you can use it some what effectively. If you are using the kit lens you can use it straight on but if you have a longer lens, such as a Sigma 16mm, the barrel of the lens is so long that it gets in the way of the flash make the built in flash unusable unless you point it upwards and bounce it off the ceiling or such (again i'll refer you to youtube for more research on that). If you are looking for a cheap alternative to the built in flash I highly recommend a cheap $30 flash off Amazon (maybe even cheaper with the Amazon Day deals going on right now) and a cheap LED light for photography for extra light. I personally have this flash (for $30.99) and this LED light (for $34.59).

​

There are a few scenarios in which I use these lights.

1. If I am indoors and there is some ambient light I will typically just use the flash on the a6000 which I then mount the a6000 on a tripod. It is great for group photos as I am still able to hit my focus, use a low ISO (typically 100), and not have to use f1.4 or f2. Typically your lens will be sharper around that F4-6 range in my experience.
   
   ​
   
   
2. If the room you are shooting in has no good natural light source or poor lighting and you want to use an ISO of 100 and etc I will use the LED light as my main light source. I find a constant light source gives my camera the ability to find the proper focus as the a6000 seems to have trouble finding focus when it is very dark. So if your camera can't hit the proper focus a flash won't really help all that much. Nobody wants a well lit photo that is out of focus.
   
   ​
   
   
3. Then you can also use them in combo. You can use the LED light as a constant light source and flash if you wish.
   
   ​
   
   I will say if I am taking photos of animals or people I never use the LED light as the constant light source can be overwhelmingly bright on the eyes where as the flash is just a quick, well, flash of light. So shooting stills might be best to use an LED light of sorts in your scenario. Again this is my experience of a hobbyist photographer AND if you want to do it on a small budget, by no means am I a professional and I always recommend people to do their own research on how to use their camera properly as there is great videos and guides out there from known professionals.

At this price point, don't go with a DSLR. The T6 isn't going to be that good. Instead, I recommend getting 4 things:

1. A Canon VIXIA HF R800. This is a good camcorder that can record at 1080p 60 frames per second. This does split the files after a certain recording limit, but that limit happens to be 12 hours, so you're fine.
   
   
2. I recommend you also add B-roll footage, where you show off a product using smooth footage of it. This adds interest to your videos, and improves your audio retention and such. You could start with a Magnus VT-300.
   
   
3. You need good audio, I can't stress that enough. To get started, use a portable audio recorder. The best option for around $100 is the Zoom H1. This will record all your audio and has built in microphones. You can plug it directly into the camera from there, or sync in post, whichever is easier for you. Don't plan on using the audio from camera mics. Even high end cameras aren't meant to use the built in mics for high quality audio.
   
   
4. Last you need some lights. A good all-rounder to get started is the Viltrox L116T. They have adjustable brightness and color temperature + they can be powered by a power adapter or batteries, both of which you need to get separately.

So ill focus on three things: Audio, lighting and general video stability ect.

First off Audio.
Audio makes up alot of the video and if it sucks its bad. The built in mics on phones are pretty good but the rode video mic me will add value
I dont think this is the first and most important thing and you should look at some alternatives wich are cheaper. Just buy something because if youre going to be further away from the phone the sound will often suck. Heres a good video on this topic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5M3Zn8h27c

next up lighting, think about your current setup, will you be able to film at night, wdo you have enough light? If you have alot of space id recommend a softbox kit from amazon. You get 2 sopftboxes for usually around 50bucks wich will give you soft even light.If you dont have enough space/budet look for led video lights on amazon. neewer has something called like 160 or whatever.Its just a big thing with lots of leds and it gets super bright(https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487198195&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+led)
You might need something to hold up the light but books will also do the job.

As for general I think theres 2 things. One either a gorilla pod or tripod, think about your situation. Will a gorilla pod get high enough?Again books will do the job fine but it can be annoying. A regular tripod will be comfortable to use but might not work for you. And last is some app that lets you change settings, I think theres one called filmicpro just look up some video shoting apps. Mainly you want it to turn off auto focus exposure ect so theres no weird jumping around focus/exposure.

Good luck with your channel, I think an app that lets you turn off autofocus and exposure is very important and depending on your situation you should invest in lights or audio. Or maybe even both.

Have fun with your eating!

I would ask for gift cards, i.e. Amazon and B&H, or money. You can save these up and get nicer equipment or build your own rigs. But a nice Tripod can make a huge difference. But honestly, it all depends on what you film. Such as me, I often shoot on locations so lenses with a faster aperture do more than a set of studio lights. Here are my recommendations for basic stuff to ask for Christmas:

CN-160 LEDs - about $30 (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/) and of course some NP-F970 Batteries go along well for about another $22 (http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Replacement-NEX-EA50UH-DCR-VX2100-HDR-FX1000/dp/B008X9L6ZS/)

Extra batteries - The off-brand batteries work well. I have two and they are great

Extra Memory Cards - I highly reccommend Lexar as my SanDisks don't work insanely well anymore.

Stabilizer Rigs - The Mantis Rig Is A Great Rig for everything (especially starting) and is only $33 (http://www.amazon.com/Mantis-Folding-Rig-Fotodiox-Transformable/dp/B00AUKBV7G) Or if you want to get a glidecam-style I suggest the Laing P-4S stabilizer which is like $275 and includes a bag and weights (http://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Plate-Laing-Stabilizer/dp/B00G3TCYQK/)

And My Best Piece of Lighting Equipment - A Reflector which you can get for like $20. (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/) There's plenty of different sizes, too.

most important for gh2 is lens adaptors / lenses. anything so you don't have to shoot with the extremely limited m4/3 lens selections. I'd go with old school nikon primes. thats the cheapest way to cinema look. I have since invested in more expensive canon zoom lenses, but that is for long term investment, because honestly I don't see m4/3 as having much shelf life in terms of video. I really think panasonic made a mistake with the format. they just got lucky that hackers made the gh2 so awesome. so yea, for more expensive glass, I'd say its smarter to invest in s35 or full frame.

Audio. I use a zoom H4n for my dslr recording. I have an me-66 for shotgun stuff, and sennheiser g2 kits for wireless (with the me-2 mic). i usually just do wireless for most things. does the job great.

Shoulder rig, anything really will do. I recommend you don't be seduced by the zacuto stuff, if only because equally functional rigs can be had for 1/10th the cost. I got a $200 indie systems rig on ebay, then DIY'ed a counter balance for it. works great.

other. may want an on camera light, depending on what you're shooting. there's a light on amazon thats only 34 dollars. its cheap, but again, does the job, for 1/10th the litepanels equivalent. (I have the litepanels micro, purchased for $300, equally cheaply constructed and not nearly as bright.) I would definitely have bought this cheap one if it existed at the time.

Sure, it's pretty straight forward.


I used this L Bracket
to mount this
Gimbal. For lighting up my dark house/living room, this
LED Light works great. It's very bright.

To mount my old iPhone 4s as a monitor, I used a couple of these and a cheap iPhone case.

This produces very stable videos that turn out great for indoor parties, Christmas morning, etc. The WG gimbal mounts easily on my moutain bike or helmet as well, it's very flexible.

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

Hmm, you're in a tricky position because of those walls behind you. Any light that hits them is going to bounce and fill that corner. I'd first start off shooting during the day, using just the window light. Take all the room lights off, and either open or close those curtains based off how much sunlight is hitting those windows. Your back should be pretty well lit from that window, check out quality of light hitting your face, if it's too low then bring in a softbox and light your face with some fill. Don't put the softbox too close as it'll create that soft no contrast look. You just want to bring in some details on your face.

If you want a harsher more direct light with those softboxes then try removing the front of the box and using just the bare bulb. There should be some reflective material on the inside of those boxes which will giver you a little more direction. Also set your white balance to either cloudy or shade, this should warm up your image a bit during the day. You can also fill that room in general by pointing one of your lights towards the ceiling, you should get some nice bounce-back and fill the room more.

Tungsten lighting kits are usually the most common forms of cinema lighting, they'll give you that strong harsh look, but they can also be modified with gels, flags, and dimmers to get the look DPs want.

A cheap alternative nowadays is LED lighting, they're relatively cheap and don't get hot when using them, they're also incredibly portable so you can place them in unique places. Check them out on amazon, they have tons of different options and give you the best of both hard and soft light.
https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Barndoor-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B0189TA68O/ref=sr_1_14?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1486051664&sr=1-14&keywords=Video+lighting+kit

What I like to do if I'm lighting a particular scene is study up on what other looks cinematographers have done and their lighting methods. Just do a google image search of certain scenes and study the images that come up.
This is a good look.
http://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/original_312865_k0bjd3a43mivzg4sFfzmus6Sy.jpg


Also if you still have any questions and want to do more research on lighting, just go watch some youtube tutorials.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7Rf6u-XveM

These guys are the best.
https://www.youtube.com/user/filmriot

I've been meaning to write up a guide for this...

If you Google around for cheap light kits, you'll see a lot of "clamp light" builds. I recommend skipping those. Knockoff LED panels have gotten good enough that I think you're better off buying them instead. The clamp lights, to me, are more pieces and trouble to set up, tear down, and travel with than they're worth and they look extremely amateur, which is a problem if you're doing corporate work.

Before you begin, the key to remember is that the smaller the frame, the more cheaply it can be lit. Shoot tight to make your cheap lighting go further and look better.

First, use the sun. Position your subject as if the sun is your key - around to the side a bit so you get some light wrapping. Then bring in your popup light modifier and stand and set it up to diffuse the sun. This almost always looks great and is very cheap and easy to set up.

Next, get a bucket of CN160s and some knockoff Sony NP batteries. Shoot a few of them through your diffusion ring to get a bright enough key, then bounce the rest of them off of white foamcore to get nice fill lights and to fill in the room.

$200 or so will get you pretty well set up - less depending on how many LED panels you want. It's hardly the BEST kit, but it's an excellent, effective, and compact CHEAP kit.

Those DIY florescent kits can get you into trouble. Sometimes they don't run at the appropriate refresh rate and they'll create a banding effect on certain colors. The inverter dillema always makes field shooting a little tricky. If you've got a couple HMIs, (Frenels, Cans, spots, or whatever you call em in your neck of the woods). It might be worth it to rent a generator since this piece doesn't appear dependent on Foley.

If you need the flat face light look amazon sells these cheap LED's that are great in pinch [Amazon Link] (http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409497084&sr=8-1&keywords=led+camera+light)

I used one on a shot I did a while back I qued it up. It's just the bathroom shot so you can stop playing after you get an idea of what we did with the lights. You'll notice a color shift in the middle to try and change the feel of the scene (Adjustment in post) but basically the light has a pretty good effect as long as you remain within 5 feet of your target. Also works as nice fill on extreme closeups.

Good luck on the re-shoot, I look forward to seeing your results.

your vids are getting better, bro. And your recipes are amazing :) I would've never thought of making curry paste. I gotta try it now.

I still think that you could shave a minute off of this by doing more dynamic cuts, even though i did notice you playing with speed ramping -- looking good. One big thing i was thrown off by in this one was camera shake when you were pounding the paste and when you slam your fist on the table :) Setting up a tripod may be a little more work, but it will help out. Also, watch your shadows when doing an overhead shot. I think you need more of those, but you would need an LED light to help you with those. Check this one out, it's affordable and very versatile. It can give your dishes some really desirable light. https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550150996&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+led+light+wand&psc=1&smid=AMIHU7JS0U6DA

​

also, check out my channel when you get a chance :) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC05j4axvVhIUu0FOr3zzkLg

​

Another vote for a Canon Vixia. You can get them refurbished for as low as $130 from B&H. We use them at a little community station I'm involved with as loaner/newbie cameras. They'll take a good picture (no, it's not going to match a GH5, but you can just set it up and hit record), are the only entry-level camcorders with a mic input, and the codec edits fairly well even on a modest system.

You will want decent light - "practical light" (IE - overhead lights, lamps, etc) can be enough, but these little LED panels are cheap and bright enough for sit-down interviews where you can place the light a little closer to the person. https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness/dp/B07D8TTFSR/

You might want to pick up one of those and an inexpensive light stand, you'll need/want a couple of SD cards (I'd recommend 64gb w/ the Vixia, it'll hold hours of interviews and is at a good price/capacity point). Get two, and an external hard drive - a 2tb drive is about $50-60 now. As soon as you get home copy the video to the external hard drive.

You'll want a decent tripod, you might be able to get away with a cheap tripod for this project, but spending a few bucks more gives you something that will hold up. This is still a cheap tripod, and it's heavy, but it's a good one, reasonably smooth pan and tilt and the one we have has stood up to 3 years of abuse by volunteers. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1240923-REG/davis_sanford_provista7518b_provista_7518b_tripod_with.html?sts=pi&pim=Y

​

A lavalier mic can be useful. One thing to note, the Vixia does not provide "plug in power" to mics, so you need to look for dynamic mics that truly don't need power or battery powered condenser mics.

For the camera, i think a G7 should do the job, but if you don't even move that much and have a somewhat broader field of view, maybe a set focus will even do the job.

For audio i'd personally get a sound recorder from zoom or tascam and a cable - lav which will cost you 120$ to 150$ and get you great results.

For lightning i'd take something like https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492541966&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+led

with some cheap tripods, because your indoors mostly there should be no worrys, and they can be powered per battery, too.

Software... Davinci Resolve ist free if you only want to work in a 1080p workflow and even for like 20$ a month you get get the full adobe cc bundle. And yeah you don't want to spend much money there, but many things can be created with the combination of Premiere, AfterEffects and Audition.

This very well may have been my friends, as we usually extend our sessions after the sun goes down.

We have a couple of these headlamps. Cheap, and super bright. They have a zoom function so you can concentrate the light as needed:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAAZY00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Then we use these as floodlights. Not super durable, but very bright and cheap, and the brightness is adjustable via dial.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=pd_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DW8ndgtKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1QD2ST71K4MTG47GN6J7

http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-NP-FM50-Np-f330-Np-f550-Np-f570/dp/B000OPB4U6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

Two is enough to light up anything but really big problems. We combine those with the headlamps and have been able to light up things like High Plains Drifter enough to get good video in the middle of the night.

Trust me, this is what you want. Most of the people who have climbed with us end up asking me later what lights we were using so they can buy some for themselves.

I do this as my job. Some things you could work on:

1. You need better equipment. Im not sure what youre filming on but if you would like to take this at all seriously you'd be better suited buying a setup. Something like a t3i, 10-22mm lens, 50mm lens, and this light: http://www.amazon.ca/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394350978&sr=8-1&keywords=camera+light
   
   
2. Your timing is off- it is extremely important that you match up the song with the video perfectly.
   
   
3. Dont film people dancing in empty spaces.
   
   
4. Steady your hand/learn proper panning techniques.
   
   If it's just fan footage none of this is really important.

If you're looking for some cheap video lighting to help brighten up a shot I would recommend searching on Amazon for LED panels. They can range from small and cheap to bigger, brighter, and much more expensive. I would search around and try and find something that's in your price range. They can certainly be useful to help add some light in an interview setting or you can use them mounted on top of your camera if you're shooting an event in the dark like a wedding reception or a nightclub.

I'd honestly still go to the pros for this one, or at least cheap ambitious student film makers. Local high schoolers even. As a working freelancer/producer, I've had inquiries for "DIY"/mobile studios for clients to setup up themselves and they've botched every single one of them.

If your clients are seriously that hellbent on saving costs and time, then I like Hybrid's suggestions for tech. On top of that, I would add an LED panel for keylighting and this handy tutorial by Realm Pictures for setup.

But honestly, from my experience, this much knowledge/tech will baffle the non-savvy so really feel your way out on this and try to steer them towards finding help. Hopefully a solution is found! GL!

I would say not bad for your first job. The first thing is the audio, do your best to never use audio that isn't a Lav mic or a shotgun/boom mic very close the subject. If you're forced to use the Zoom, buy a dirt cheap XLR mic to plug into like this one XLR Mic.

Also wouldn't hurt to invest in a dirt cheap light panel like this one Light Panel and stand as well which you can get on Amazon for less than 50 bucks. The shots looked under lit and could have benefited from a different background, a window is never a good idea and didn't really fit the subject matter. Maybe shooting them in a lab setting would have been better since it's relative to the subject. You want to create a feel or mood when you create a video and the more you can put them in a medical environment, the more legit they will seem.

Lastly, the shot of the person working in the lab never fully racked into focus, focus is critical with big clients and every shot has to have a crisp focus.

Hope I wasn't too harsh, it beats the first videos I ever created by a mile. Good Luck.

Yes, thank you that helps alot! I was looking abround some more and found these things

phone cage with 2 lenses

light - and maybe the charger/softbox combo

And a mic

Total price would be around $200 so I can work with that. And yes I will just have to show them the ropes a bit on how to get the best possible video.

Thanks so much for your help!

Great shot!! Product photography is 80% lighting. A few basic tricks if you dont want to invest too much:

1- A basic reflector kit (silver, gold, diffusor) will set you back about 30$ and can really help up your photography game. Alternatively, a 2x3 piece of glossy carboard, set like a dome over your watch, can act as a ghetto reflector and give you very nice results.

2- A LED panel such as this one lets you adjust both the intensity and the warmth of the light, which comes in handy when you want to match it with a secondary source of light.

3- You probably already know this, but RAW + Lightroom are your best friends if you’re shooting with a DSLR

The 50mm prime lens is a nice ADDITION to your kit. I would not purchase a 50mm lens as your only/first lens because you are then forced into moving your camera closer/far away from your subject as you can not zoom to set up shots.

The 600D is good for what it is and you don't have many other options for under 1000$. Most 600D's come with an 18-55mm lens, I purchased a used 600D with a 18-135mm lens which I recommend over the 18-55mm. Of course, it is slightly more expensive, but glass isn't a bad investment because should you upgrade your body, you still have your lenses.

Tripod: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/243272-REG/Davis_Sanford_PROVISTA7518B_Provista_7518_Tripod_w_FM18.html

Several other redditors have recommended this tripod, and I own one as well. Stands up to about 6 feet tall, fluid pans and tilts, quick and easy to set up/break down. Best bang for the dollar.

Audio: Zoom H4N is the recorder you would want, but unfortunately, I think everything you are looking for is tough to get under 1000$. Since you are doing interviews I would recommend 1-2 wireless lavaliers.

If you are working by yourself, maybe a RODE Videomic PRO. It's a shotgun mic, but operates through 3.5mm rather than XLR, so it can mount on your cameras shoe and plug directly in replacing your camera audio. There's a kit you can get with the VMP that comes with a dead cat, boom pole, and extension cable. If you buy a Zoom H1, you can record to that and boom from wherever regardless of your camera. However, the Zoom H1 doesn't take XLR input.

The kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RODE-VideoMic-Pro-Microphone-Booming-Kit-1-Boom-Deadcat-and-25-Cable-/160879124199?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Microphones&hash=item2575249ee7

Zoom h1: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/699403-REG/Zoom_H1_H1_Ultra_Portable_Digital_Audio.html

Lighting: There are a lot of guide's out there for DIY light kits. I would look into that, you should be able to build a 3 point light kit for under 100$ from your local hardware store. Also, for 25$ this LED light is great, however it is not a substitute for 3 point lighting.

LED: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411574797&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+160+led+cn-160

1. workflow's like shooting video on dslrs. outputs h.264 files that i convert to apple prores for editing. averaging a bitrate of 20-30 mbit/s but i've read it's capable of up to 80 mbit/s. idk how to answer your colorspace question.
   
2. having the ability to capture and make visible slomo has trumped any resolution frustrations, and i haven't worked professionally in filmmaking so have not had to consider client demands. won't mind shooting high-speed in 1080p or more though;)
   
3. dynamic range isn't bad imo. i've been able to bring out more details in post with color correction. no custom profiles yet but the edgertronic team's been good with firmware updates so maybe that's something they can add one day: http://wiki.edgertronic.com/index.php/Software_releases#Anticipated_features
   
4. light sensitivity's pretty good, i used 2-3 of these led lights for my interiors: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6
   
5. this may depend mainly on your lens. everything i've shot so far has been with the 50mm f1.8 lens that comes with the camera.

Thanks for that I haven't exactly settled on the Camera I am going to use but it's possibly a Canon 80D (I'm friends with a Pro Tog and he's let me play with his) at the moment I'm practicing with my Fujifilm X100T (I know it's not an ideal film camera, but it's all I have at the moment), so once I get that I'll start playing around with different set ups.

As for lighting - I was looking at getting a few of these from Neewer to allow me to play around with light temperatures.

Are there any guides to the terminology and basic techniques you could recommend?

[LED color temp question]

Hi guys,

I use the two following products from China for my ghetto light box set up:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DEEP-new-generation-of-LED-light-box-softbox-80CM-professional-photography-studio-equipment-photo-shoot-props/32250977867.html
http://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-camcorders-3200-5500K-adjustable-temperature/dp/B00COGKPLM

While they claimed that their color temperature is 5500k, when I process the RAW files from my camera (Sony A7M2 and RX1), the auto value is 4600/4150 respectively (and they are really the best). It is really bugging me. So my questions are:

1. Are the LED not color accurate at all?
   
2. Does the diffuser (cloth, semi opaque plastic plates insert) or the reflector (those metallic interior or matte box) affect color temperature?
   
3. Why the optimal color temperature to each camera seems different?
   
   Please help. Thanks guys!
   
   Result is here. I only calibrated my monitor recently and aside from the most recent four pictures, all color in the previous shots are off. Hard luck.
   https://www.flickr.com/photos/133640171@N07/?

Wedding Videographer for 12 years here.... I used a monopod to shoot 98% of my weddings as the primary video, with a tripod as the secondary stand. You can get a monopod for about $15.00 from Walmart or you can go the more expensive route and get one for about 100.00 + dollars from a pro camera shop. For the actual ceremony, I always placed my tripod camera to the entrance and I would stand near the front by the Groom as the Bride came up the isle... edited together is was very professional. The monopod will give you the option to move out of the way during the ceremony. The lav mic was only used for the vows because when you go to edit you will have to go from the sound in the room to the mic... if you try and place both together you will get an echo. Find out ahead of time if there are any speeches, toasts, dances, bouquet toss ahead of time so you can be ready for them during the reception (get a schedule if you can). Don't shoot people eating food and keep the reception as natural as you can. I would keep the reception to one camera on your monopod... you will catch all of the action and keep your editing down to a minimum after the fact (important). Lighting.... I used those LED lights that run about $24.00 on amazon - (see link at the end) ... hope you have external lighting to prevent grainy video footage. Ask the photographer for still shots of groups so you can use them in your video ... using the "Ken Burns Effect" in your video editor. If your going to do a montage remember, people look more romantic and elegant when slowed down in your editor... Good luck... and oh yea... watch out for your equipment and drunks putting their drinks down near your stuff... one spill of a soft drink and its done for.

Here is an example of a small wedding for an older couple (2nd marriage) that I did a few years ago. It was shot with a single GoPro Camera on a monopod. The wedding took place in a courtyard in the French Quarter of New Orleans and features a short intro montage. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxVpNqnbyQ

​

Link to camera light - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Cameras-Battery-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=newer+led+video+light&qid=1570037334&sr=8-5

If you want spend for branded quality that is and is rather robust (even though it will be in the office and not traveling with you for diff film sets) go with the aperature branded products

However if you want some good budget lights and can buy some bell and whistle add ons to help with your set up later, go with Neewer 660 LEDs here and their 5 in 1 reflector kit here

Personally I love Neewer as they have a solid product and if you take care of it, as you should for all of your equipment, it will last.

Awesome write-up!

My favorite macro photography tool is a cheapo LED light I got on Amazon. It adjusts from dim to pretty darn bright and, especially with the included plastic pieces, is diffuse enough to not end up harsh like an on-camera flash.

Here is an example of the results - this photo was taken using a NEX-5 on 2-second timer on a tripod, an old FD-mount 50mm macro lens on an adapter, and said LED light, no other gear necessary (and no post). I missed focus a wee bit since I was shooting pretty wide open and my wrist moved while the timer was running, but it turned out pretty nice anyway.

Ha I think you gave yourself some good feedback at the beginning of the video - you could already see the finished look, so the viewer doesn't need to wait until the end/watch more :) You could put the finished look in the thumbnail instead and do your outro with it.

As you're doing makeup videos I'd also recommend getting some better lighting (doesn't have to be expensive), I bought this one and it is quite good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Batteies-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=video+lighting+led&qid=1563132285&refinements=p_89%3ANeewer&rnid=1632651031&s=photo&sr=1-5

Thanks for the clarification on the strobe, for some reason my mind went straight to the umbrella strobes.

I have this, but was not using it during my last shoot. It is plenty bright, but it is not controlled at all, just like a big flashlight on top of the camera. I do not think it will cause any issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I be adjusting the white balance on my camera at all, or just in post-production? I think it is on auto mode right now, have not been messing with it trying to get the rest of my manual controls down, shutter speed, ISO and apature.

This was my first dark shooting, so that was my attempt at playing with my ISO. I still have yet to take a good look at the photographs. I fully expect the upper limit of the camera to be poor.

The focus issue has been hurting me. I have been doing mostly wildlife photography up to this point, but some people complain that my photographs are "blurry and out of focus." I still have just a basic 100-300 lens and shooting at the upper limit does produce poorer quality photographs, I like having the apature set so only the subject is focused and the background is blurry. So I feel I am on the right track, just need to improve my skills. Over the summer I will be upgrading my equipment so hopefully that brings a better quality as well.

I EDC an E07 in a holster, it’s probably my most-used light. I have the 4000k, high-CRI SST-20 emitters, and wouldn’t think of trading them for more output at lower CRI. It’s a fantastic light, if you get a good one it will serve you well. All of that being said, if you don’t mind the form factor, I’ve heard of people having great results in auto paint inspection with a Viltrox Panel Light. These put out a photo-quality, beautifully diffuse light that’s going to be better than just about any flashlight could give you. Get the E07 to carry, but these will do great things for you.

Thank you! That's actually something I've been attempting to improve lately. Historically I was using my iPhone, because attempts to use a DSLR looked even worse (because I had no idea what I was doing). After becoming a wee bit more knowledgeable on a recent vacation in Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, I became determined to finally improve my indoor shots. I found some surprisingly reasonable equipment on Amazon for background and lighting (lighting x2, tabletop backdrop stand, background paper, clamps to hold the paper taut), leveraged tripods I already owned and used one of my Pentax DSLRs (A K20D in this case). I still auto-leveled all the images on my computer, but hopefully they are better than in the past.

If it's an indoor location with no windows, you might be hard pressed to get nice images without a flash. The ISO performance on the d5300 isn't fantastic. I would look into possibly getting video lights, or a flash to light your images, you can pick up both from yongnuo pretty cheap.

The best moments to pick up here would be if she had family or friends she's interacting with, you can only take so many pictures of her getting her hair done before it gets boring. Look for laughs and interactions, good luck!

Im not sure how far you need to see in front of you, but I use a flash grip bracket like this combined with a led flash they also have bigger led flashes. It works decent with my gopro white so with the new cameras itll worl even better. As for transfering it to my ipad I use this card reader and it works great.

Yep, LED lights are your best bet- they are small last long on battery power, do not emit heat, and depending on the one you get they can come with a temperature(as in color temperature- blue and yellow) dial as well as a dimmer dial. Something like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346276906&sr=8-2&keywords=camera+light

First I would get a 10 dollar bag of reflectors though- use them the right way and they are more valuable than a light.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-60CM-Light-Collapsible-Reflector/dp/B004ATJDVY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346277225&sr=1-4&keywords=light+reflectors

EDIT: Sorry I'm kinda lazy and didn't shorten the link these better

Awesome and thanks! This looks interesting

https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20

Any other nice light panel would be cool too if the price changes or this goes OOS.

VILTROX L116T RA CRI95 Super Slim LED Light Panel,3300K-5600K LED Video Light Panel, LCD Display Screen,Color Temperature and Brightness can be Adjusted with NP-F550 Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oiGDCb15HEBXJ




That'd be awesome. Thanks!!

I bought this Viltrox VL-162T based on /u/maukka's measurements and positive opinion of the related L116T. I know it's not a flashlight, but it runs on batteries, can be handheld and makes light, so I think it goes here. No, that does not make it OK to post your new phone.

This is intended to be a camera light. It can run on a Sony NP-F battery or a 12V, 2.1mm barrel plug. It has hot shoe mounts and 1/4" anchor points. My Opus BT-C3100 power supply works with it, for example. I bought this power supply from Banggood for it, but do not recommend it. The first one failed entirely. Banggood sent a replacement, which does not seem to maintain its voltage under load; it will power the Viltrox panel, but has problems with the Opus charger. I also added this cheap mini tripod which I do not recommend for this application because it's not wide enough for satisfactory stability with this light on it.

I believe these use Yuji BC series 5mm LEDs, and the light produced is beautiful at all color temperature settings (3300-5600K claimed). It's rare you'll see this from me, but I don't think this light needs more Nichia. These emitters are perfect as they are.

What it does need is more 18650. I soldered and glued an 18650 carrier where the NP-F battery is meant to go. It runs for 80 minutes on a pair of HG2s, staying over 90% output the whole time and shuts off without warning at about 7.0V. The display blinks at this point to indicate low battery. Given that, it's not safe for the batteries to leave unattended indefinitely, but I bet two 18650s at 3.5V can power that blinking display for a long time before they get over-discharged. Plugging in a power supply results in voltage across the battery contacts, but only a few microamps of current will flow between them. It will not charge the batteries.

Claimed output is 1070 lumens. That seems about right, but I don't have a way to integrate a light this size. There's a diffuser included, but it seems to dim the light more than spread it. I haven't found it useful.

This thing is awesome. It makes a great room light or desk lamp with appropriate power and mounting accessories. That it's battery capable makes it even better. I've been using it in the bathroom when I shave because there are no outlets and I'm not satisfied with the fixed lighting. My only complaint is that the minimum output is 20%, and I'd like it lower.

As others have said your big difference is power, but most people don't understand how huge of a power difference there is.

For these examples I am going to compared flashes to Something like the

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01NCJSK5V

a 660 LED light panel. For those 660 LED you get 3360 lumens of light. That is a lot for a light. A 60w old school bulb would give out 800ish lumens. So its already equivalent to 4 60w bulbs. But if you have a pop up flash on your camera, you know the really underpowered flash no one ever really uses, its around 10,000 to 12,000 lumens. So you are going to need 3-4 of those light panels for the same amount of light from your pop up flash. A full powered speed light will be around 500,000 lumens or 149 of those LED panels. A studio strobe like your Einsteins will be well over 1 million lumens with a reflector. They are world apart different in power.

Can constant lighting be used in photography, sure, you will need to shoot wide open with slow shutters and higher ISO though to come anywhere close to what a single strobe can bring to the mix.

If size and portability is the issue, look into mini strobes like the AD200 with its remote head or an AD360 or even speedlights to be super portable with setups

Lighting is super important, but don't forget about sound! People are much more likely to forgive a terrible image than they are sound.

The sensor in the t3i is the same as the t2i (but not the t1i, which can only do 20fps 1080). So if you can find a t2i for cheaper, do that. For lighting, you can get some pretty cheap but highly effective LED panels (see [here] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393882490&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+Light+panel)) that will allow you to buy some decent audio equipment.

I recently just picked up this light, a rechargeable battery pack, and this stand.

It is a VERY bright LED light with adjustable brightness, and it can light up a green screen and you with ease as long as it's positioned correctly. Fits on my desk behind my monitor perfectly.

Thanks as always Parametrek!

I'd love one of these:https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L116T-3300K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness/dp/B07D8TTFSR/

Good luck everyone!

Is this going to be intense on the eyes? I already work an 8hr a day job on the computer, this might be overkill if its super bright in my eyes. The one you linked however still seems a bit big.. I just found this one though in 'sponsored products': https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8TTFSR/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07D8TTFSR&pd_rd_w=Lqtnz&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=Euict&pf_rd_r=E1HDXDP7CWSMMZMR79T8&pd_rd_r=4dd1fd04-75ad-11e9-a9da-2171f603c15c

It seems small and compact which is good, only thing I dont like about this one is that it runs on only batteries. I stream often so this would run out pretty often and might get annoying. Are there alternatives like that, that I can clamp on my monitor for example? Maybe without batteries?

Of course, dude! It may not match the style you're looking for, but check out some of the LED banks that mount to a hotshoe adapter. I mussed around with one in undergrad and they're pretty nifty, especially if you get one with a slide or wheel brightness adjuster. Some even come with plastic covers that act as warm/cool/tone gels.

Kind of like this one.

I agree with you there about feedback. Honesty is key but there is literally never a time you can't serve the compliment sandwich. (Solid criticism buns with a meaty compliment in the middle). Never a need to be rude to people.

Keep killing it on the videos!

I keep suggesting this seller off of Ebay for the shoulder rig. I recently picked up this item from them, and all I can say is; this was the best cheap purchase I have made in regards to my filming gear. I did have to buy a couple of additional items to make it completely suit my needs, but overall I still saved a LOT of money compared to anything I could have bought off of Amazon or other film gear sites. At the moment I don't need a great matte, the cheesy one that comes with this rig works fine for blocking light.

For follow focus I went with the 50-Dollar Follow Focus from Hondo Garage. I like it a lot, but it doesn't seem to be for everyone. The price also goes up if you buy the larger lens upgrade, which gives you a longer belt and a bigger wheel.

This light panel is plenty bright for anything indoor or anything outdoor that isn't in direct sunlight.

As for mic and mixer, I bought the Tamron DR-40 4 channel mixer, and the Rode NTG2 Shotgun mic. I went with the Tamron because it was $100 dollars cheaper than the Zoom H4N (equivalent mixer) and it was mentioned on several reviews to have a cleaner sounding preamp.

I have a Canon 60D so I don't need CF cards and my tripod is generic and gets the job done.

I just got this light and so far it fkin rocks. You can probably find something for half the price if you look hard, but this thing puts out a lot. I plan on getting a second in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MI5VMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other than that check out YouTube. It's a well of content and there are honestly too many to list.

Next Level Painting

Jack of Clubs Painting

Slow Fuse Gaming

Sonic Sledgehammer

Midwinter Minis

Also TWITCH. A lot of people streaming live content and will take questions from viewers as they're working. I pretty much always have someone running on screen while I'm building/painting.

If you want to go one step further, there are people who do private solo or group classes thru Patreon.

Unanswered (again) question from a previous megathread

Author /u/Tinderlickinggood - (Permalink)

Hi everyone. Photography noob here though I understand basic manual settings. I built a diy photobooth and will be using it at my cousin's wedding very soon. It is an open air type booth with a canon t3i in it and is self automated. The wedding will be outside from 4pm to late hours. What are the best settings for it so that I can set and forget? Assuming we have full outdoor lighting, and sun setting at 7:30, what shooting mode would be best? It will have continuous lighting seen here VILTROX L132T 0.78"/2cm Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGDGUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TIA

Hi everyone. Photography noob here though I understand basic manual settings. I built a diy photobooth and will be using it at my cousin's wedding very soon. It is an open air type booth with a canon t3i in it and is self automated. The wedding will be outside from 4pm to late hours. What are the best settings for it so that I can set and forget? Assuming we have full outdoor lighting, and sun setting at 7:30, what shooting mode would be best? It will have continuous lighting seen here VILTROX L132T 0.78"/2cm Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGDGUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TIA

Not at all! I’m using these ones . They’re very good; plenty of power, adjustable output, battery operated, adjustable color temp, hot shoe mount included, and easy interface. Downsides are you’ll need to buy a hotshot-c stand bracket if you want to use them on stands, they don’t come with any color gels, and they drink power. They only last ~30-45 minutes turned on at full power. But they are very strong at full power and they’re very compact, so it’s an understandable compromise. I recommend them.

If you can return those I would. Those are meant for larger studios and not really for constant light.

If you can look into led panels. They have dimmers and you can mix in yellow and blue light to get the perfect balance for your room, especially if you have any natural light coming through a window.

Look at these, I'm pretty sure it's what I use (I steal them from my husband who's a videographer) and they are amazing! (Not an affiliated link btw)

Neewer Dimmable Bi-Color LED with U Bracket Professional Video Light for Studio, YouTube Outdoor Video Photography Lighting Kit, Durable Metal Frame, 480 LED Beads, 3200-5600K, CRI 96+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OiArDbD2DT7J9

Are you interested in a DSLR/interchangeable lens type of camera, or a straightforward video camcorder? Based on what you're looking to film (interviews plus footage of art being created over a period of time), I think a DSLR camera could work for you. It would be capable of getting quality video footage, and if you want to take photo timelapses of the art pieces being created that would be easy to do as well.

So based on that and your $2000 budget, here's what I'd recommend.

Panasonic G85 w/kit lens ($800)

Rode Wireless DSLR Audio System ($330)

Manfrotto Video Tripod ($360)

Neewer 660 LED 2-Light Kit with stands ($160)

Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens ($180)

This should bring you comfortably under $2000. The kit lens that comes with the G85 isn't the greatest but it's a start. I'd recommend getting the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you have another $800 or so to shell out...you can probably get it cheaper used though.

The 25mm f1.7 is equivalent to a 50mm focal length on a full-frame camera (the G85 has a micro four thirds sensor) and should do well in lower light situations.

With the leftover money, I say go buy a decent bag or carrying case for the camera gear and get some SD cards, lens filters, etc.

I've used flashlights before, big ol' mag lights (the kinds cop use) can be effective.

http://youtu.be/1LPr0qFTebo

The lighting set up for that was a mag-light through a shoot through umbrella just out of frame (maybe 4 feet away?) and a second light on top of the hood of a car maybe 5-10 feet camera left to the side of the talent. I don't think we even had to crank the ISO too much on that. Maybe 640. I don't have an HD copy of that file anymore.

In more recent times I've used this:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-CN-160-camera-video-light/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377727985&sr=8-1&keywords=LED+Video+Light+160

Careful with this though, as the battery drains the lights get dimmer, which isn't noticeable until it's too late. Be sure to check shots and change out batteries frequently.

That gives a look like this when used on camera, around 3-5 feet away from the talent.
http://youtu.be/hCxm_rBElU8

If you had a few of these, and kept things mostly tight you can probably get away with it.

This and the Icelight have fairly different usages. The GL-1 is more for spotlighting at a greater range whereas the Icelight is more for up close nice diffused portraits.

I just picked up the Yongnuo YN-300-II for only $65 for portraits and some details shots and am pretty happy with it so far.

Someone else asked about the GL-1 before here: http://www.reddit.com/r/WeddingPhotography/comments/2vfg32/the_lowel_gl1_is_there_an_update_coming_anytime/

Thanks! So something like [this?](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=neewer%2Bled%2Bpanels&qid=1555434010&s=electronics&sr=1-3&th=1)

Looks like you can control their intensity and light temperature without gels, which is nice.

How do you position these? I know traditional lighting setups look something like [this](http://i.imgur.com/PXOMvoj.png) but as I am now I don't have a solid backdrop behind me for a good 15 feet or so.

Hi /u/Kirbybajerby, I put my [rechargeable cold shoe lights] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003155IHQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003155IHQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) on a [couple of inexpensive Cowboy Studios stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) as back/hair lights.

See this pic: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YBkVwvFSo38/UsvM_wublNI/AAAAAAAAIXM/bVP1GgPP0uA/w724-h543-no/P1120305.JPG

They're only [70 LEDs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003155IHQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003155IHQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), so that's all they're good for.

If you have [300s] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZFE5DS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AZFE5DS&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) or even [160s] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TJ6JH6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004TJ6JH6&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), you should be able use them for closeup key/fill indoors, but probably not outdoors.

You'll have to put [shoe adapters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GH4Q4GW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00GH4Q4GW&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) on the light stands to make it work, though.

Good luck!

Bill

This brand is great for the budget conscious. I have this version and it is excellent for the price. The fan would be noisy for video in a quiet setting where you need silence, but for most video and for stills, it's great.

I teach video production at the local university's continuing ed program. Here are some thoughts...

• Who are your students? High school? College? Continuing Ed?
  
• How often will the class meet and over what period of time?
  
• Cheap shotgun mic ($25) - Takstar (Rode Video Mic Knockoff) Comes with a wired lavaliere, also- https://www.amazon.com/ATian-Interview-Microphone-Camcorder-Interface/dp/B00E1D2LTA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539618842&sr=8-6&keywords=shotgun+mic+dslr. The mic routinely gets a lot of love from people who think it outperforms the Rode.
  
• When I teach beginner classes, I teach the native features of the camera. For a couple of reasons, I wouldn't teach Magic Lantern to a beginning class. First, it can void their camera warrantee. Second, many of the features are kind of advanced for a beginner class. Third, and this is most critical, your beginner class is going to have some REAL beginners. Meaning at least one (there is ALWAYS one) who won't know how to even get the file onto the SD card, let alone understand how to do the firmware update. Trust me - you will lose time getting bogged down with someone who doesn't understand and will be too far behind the computer curve.
  
• Cheap lights are a good value, as well. I usually teach basic 3-point in my beginner classes, because it's foundational. Teach someone how to 3-point light an off-camera interview and you've set them up with a life skill they can build from. Viltrox on Amazon are good ones to start with: https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-3300K-5600K-Brightness-Temperature-Photography/dp/B01N3S5B1T/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1539619887&sr=8-9&keywords=led+video+light+viltrox . There are better, but there are a lot worse. For the money, I find them reliable and easy to deal with. I also like the GVM lights.
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​

I will go for the Viltrox L116T kit

I'm not actually sure which of the many Viltrox panels would be best for me, but this seems like a good starter model.

Thanks as always!

Thanks as always Parametrek! Already have the 162 and love it, so will go for a 116. Viltrox :)

Thanks for the giveaway parametrek! Thanks also for making such an excellent site!

Viltrox VL162-T, if that's allowed. If not, Rofis TR10. I was planning on modding the VL162-T to run off of batteries.

Here is what I use, all great stuff.

Neewer Green Screen Backdrop,... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1SX1KR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Neewer Photo Studio 176 LED Ultra... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XDFGDCX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sinvitron® 11 inch Magic... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011769YUM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And to add some warm / white light as needed I have one of these clamped to my monitor to my left.
KEXIN Clip on Reading Lamp LED Desk Lamp - 5W Eye-Caring Table Light 3 Mode Dimmable Brightness Study Lamp Flexible Neck Clamp Night Light for Bedroom Student Boy Girl Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S86R3FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VaeHDb2PYGJS7

Totally! I can actually recommend the lights I have (not to sound weird I promise I just think they're good cheap lights). I have now a total of 3 and a umbrella light although you probably only need 2 and could be really creative with reflective things!

When shooting a show, it's going to save you a ton of time & work if you run 2 cameras (one on a semi wide shot of you and one as a close up to your prep or cooking). You might think that will ruin your budget but not if you go for a good "bang for the buck" setup. You can do this in any reasonable budget if you go with the following:

1080p audio & video for under $400 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKuGweaTrkY or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2KYWzKaqEk


As others are saying you need lighting, so you'll need at least two of these, which are portable (battery option) and perfect for indoors (weak for outdoors) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3W0KDS/

Your solution is correct, cover the uncontrollable light and use a controllable one. Soft light will look best, but you need it to be bright enough so that your camera doesn’t have to compensate digitally (making the picture all grainy and distorted). A desk lamp will not have this power by itself, so either a bunch of desk lamps bounced off a white wall or shot through a layer of diffusion, or get like two LED video lights and bounce then off a white wall or bounce/shoot them though diffusion (photography umbrellas, diffusion from 5in1 reflector, softboxes, etc.)

It looks like something similar might be useful for canyoning too... I have a lot of trouble with fast-n-light light down there!

But those LED's, are they something like this... wouldn't they just break/fail in the foam too? Or are those ones waterproof?

Can you tell some more details about the LEDs? ie how effective you find them, how far the light goes, how long they last?

Not too many places make really floody lights. For example, here are the most floody AA and CR123A lights. Zebralight pretty much dominates this area.

The only multiple-cell light on the list is the Fenix HL30 headlamp.

If you want to get into custom lights, search Candlepowerforums for "mule." Somehow that became the name for lights with naked, unfocused LEDs.

But very few places make super floody flashlights. You might be better off DIY-ing something togeter. For example, start with a camera light. Like this or this. Both can take AA batteries and have a dimmer switch. No output/runtime specs, won't be very waterproof and you'll need to make a mounting stand.

As far as accessories, besides maybe extra battery and some memory cards you should be really good to go. If you want some nice straps/ clips/ bags, Peak Design has some really nice stuff. As far as video, it can go as deep as you want it to go, it really depends on what you want to do, if you just want a simple documentary/ youtube video set up you could just get a simple Rode Mic and maybe an little LED panel but if you are trying to make like short films, then you'll probably need a lot more lightning/ audio equipment

Just get the nifty fifty. Also known as the fantastic plastic. It’s a good lens for the price. Also maybe get a light source, these led video lights are all you need, just learn white balance editing.

NEEWER 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xrx4CbRPNS69Z

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X8MRBCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Apx4Cb5AGTZ3S

Pretty much! It’s an LED light wand from Amazon. Helps me see potholes + looks cool.

YONGNUO YN360 LED Video Light with Adjustable Color Temperature 3200K-5500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C3mLDbX4TD92T

Get the biggest memory card you can afford. With Prime Day starting in a few hours, I have no doubt memory cards will eventually be featured. 128GB, Class 10, UHS-1 (or 3), V60 (or 90). Larger numbers are better.

If you really want to get into video, think about an inexpensive rig.

http://dslrvideoshooter.com/video-gear/rigs/

As a beginner, look at the $30 end. I have an ebay version of this. This one gets a lot of positive reviews and is only $20.

Video takes an insane amount of light. Since you are going to be in Colorado in the summer, shouldn't be an issue. Having said that, if you are going to be shooting in low light situations, you need a light. I have this one.

Finally, sound. If sound is important to what you are shooting, think about an external recorder. Internal mics are a huge compromise compared to even an inexpensive recorder can do. For $100 the Tascam DR-5 is more than adequate.


Ok, now having said that, the only thing you REALLY need to buy is the memory card. Everything else is optional. You can hand shoot with natural light and the internal mic and get great video. Its just a lot harder. Hard is not impossible, it just takes more practice.

Google around and you will find a ton of tutorials on how to shoot video with a DSLR. A few things that stuck in my mind:

Shoot 10-1. If you want a minute of video you need to shoot 10 minutes and edit it down.

Pan slowly. Go as slow as you can. Now go slower. Its amazing how "fast" any movement is when you are recording it.

Shoot low and away. Literally the opposite of what you want to shoot a still image. You need to get the camera away from your face because your breath is loud and will cause shake.

Shoot early and late. Start shooting BEFORE the event you want to get happens and keep shooting through that event. If you dont you wont have any edit room. Its not like you are buying tape/film so shoot as much as your sensor can handle.

Hope this helps! Im in Colorado Springs next week and you reminded me to pack my rig! Thanks!

Bro, that was amazing. That said, get yourself a key light. People want to see that beautiful mug of yours.

That was fast. Thanks & good luck. Fingers crossed for the Viltrox kit.

Well using B & H as a pricing reference, here is a filmmaking 'kit' I have compiled :

• Panasonic Lumix G7 w/14-42mm Kit Lens ($597.99): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1148282-REG/panasonic_dmc_g7kk_lumix_dmc_g7_mirrorless_micro.html
  
  
• Zoom H1 Audio Recorder ($99.99[$79.99 deal on Silver colour until 19/06/2016]): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1180782-REG/zoom_zh1s_h1_handy_recorder_silver.html
  
  
• Magnus VT-4000 Fluid Head Tripod ($159.99): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/842086-REG/Magnus_VT_4000_VT_4000_Tripod_System.html
  
  
• Pack of 2 SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro UHS-I SDXC U3 Memory Card ($64.95): http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1148916-REG/sandisk_2_pack_64gb_extreme.html
  
  
• NEEWER® 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel ($29.99): https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466188774&sr=8-2&keywords=dslr+led [You may wish to get multiple]
  
  Of course, there are other things such as some AA and AAA batteries and cheap sd cards for the audio recorder, as well as a pop filter. You're going to have to get creative with how you get the audio recorder close to your subject without it being in the shot.

Here's my setup. Looks like this. My lights are mounted using a 1/4"-20 camera gooseneck mount with a thread pattern that some microphone boom arms also use:

• VILTROX L116T RA CRI95 Super Slim LED Light Panel
  
• ISEEUSEE 12V DC 5A Security Camera Power Adapter with 8-Way Power Splitter
  
• 5.5mm x 2.1mm Extension Cord, DC 12v
  
• SB300 Softbox Diffuser
  
• 13.3" Clamp Gooseneck Mount Camera Jaws Stand
  
  If your mic boom uses a 5/8"-27 pattern, then you might need this adapter:
  
  
• Thread Adapter 5/8"-27 Female to 1/4"-20 Male

Dude, cn-160 - this will be your back light savior.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6

So I have a 10 and 15 extension tube, and borrowing my friends macro (100mm). Is it really that easy to nab shots from film strip like that?

By indoor lighting do you mean the normal lights in your house? If so that's the problem, turn them off and use a couple good lights to properly light what you're filming instead.

something like this will go a long way. Or better two of these will light up a room nicely.

Thanks again!

I would really love a Viltrox panel
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Bi-color-Dimmable-NP-F550/dp/B01MYGDGUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=viltrox&qid=1557941691&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Thanks for the giveaway, Parametrek! I'm slowly realizing I have a lot of lights, so I think the Viltrox light panel is a good choice. Also, I'm excited to see how your site is expanding.

Thanks. Could you provide a link to a light you would recommend?

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TJ6JH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503455990&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=led+photography+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51gHdZ34gzL&ref=plSrch

Are you shooting video or stills? If it's video, you can get a basic LED video light kit for your DSLR for less than 30 bucks. It will give you much better results than a single LED. You can make something like this for even cheaper if you can solder.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-CN-126-Camera-Digital-Camcorder/dp/B004JZI78O

If it's stills, you can get a 3rd-party dedicated flash for 40-50 bucks. Again, it will way out perform a single LED.

Awesome giveaway, thanks a ton!

Light Panel

I had a large ring light that even at low settings just gave me headaches and got me tired fast. I had it angled as best I could but it was so large I couldn't do a lot. I tried diffusing it when it was facing me and it still happened. I moved it so it was bouncing off the wall instead of facing me.

I actually replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01 (you need a power adapter too) and this is in the same spot as the ring light was (behind my monitor because I have no other room) but hasn't hurt my eyes. I don't know if it's just angled in a better way but it's significantly smaller even though the light is still as bright as far as I can tell.

Either you get a fixture that is not hanging low like spotlights or led's, or you take it off the ceiling altogether and come up with a different approach.

I mounted spotlights on top (not very bright tbh) have leds behind my TV and monitor (Self adhesive usb led strips), Philips living colors lamps around that give me mood light and when I need really bright light I have those battery powered lights on cheap stands (come handy everywhere, garden etc.)

Viltrox L116T

Manker E03H NW

Thank you for doing all these! Love the more frequent/lower priced giveaways. I really don't need a $100 flashlight anyways...

Thanks as always!

Still in it to win a Viltrox L116Twith battery and charger

These are the lights I got. Six of them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U

I'm pretty happy with the test we did today, night and day difference.

I’m interested in this Viltrox. Thanks for the chance!

Thanks and congrats! Another milestone!

I've got to try that Viltron L116T.

So, just from some googling it looks like you could get some decent, dimmable panels for well within your budget.

Here, here. and here.

Search term: "dimmable battery powered LED panel".

Good shooting!

If you’re limited in space, my solution has been to mount an LED light on one of these stands, and clamp it to the back of my desk. Gives me a little more flexibility than mounting it on top of my monitor.
I use these lights, if youre interested.

I've used some of these http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6 before and they worked pretty well

Not sure how well they hold up over time

I've also used a lot of fixtures from Home Depot that work well, buy some reflectors in a few sizes and bulbs in different color temps and wattages to get the look you're going for

I know you're going for cheap (like everybody else is) but don't just buy the cheapest thing you can find, I've made this mistake before and ended up having to go buy something better later when the cheaper alternative broke after a few uses

For another option, I'm with RADTV, definitely consider renting

Mine just showed up today! I'm excited to try it out.

Have you considered some of those portable LED floodlamps? They only cost about $50 bucks and one of my photographer friends swears by them.

I think this is the model he uses:
http://www.amazon.com/LED-CN-160-Dimmable-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1325027836&sr=8-2

These are cheap, bright, bicolor. They definitely tinge slightly green on daylight but for the price and coming with stands it’s a pretty tough to beat deal for micro budget lighting
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q3DYXR/ref=asc_df_B072Q3DYXR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070155062&hvpos=1o6&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15607062875888299640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011554&hvtargid=pla-444276907917&psc=1

We actually use 3 of these
LED photo lights

They take up less space than softboxes, as well as let you adjust the color temp and brightness. We ran ours with the amazon recommended power cable and a desk scissor mount.

Thanks! It's this one (ac adapter is separate). Benefit is that it's on a dimmer. And I can move it a little and use it for webcam lighting.

Thanks for doing this!

Still looking at a Viltrox panel :)

https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-VL-162T-Brightness-Camcorder-3300K-5600K/dp/B073QLGK3R/

Good luck everyone!

This one is pretty good and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NMP5J0XA8YH8KRYX80RR

> e you red head and blast it through a nice white bed sheet hanging between two stands.
> Get this sheet as close to your subject as possible without it being in frame and then bring in your light as appropriate for the correct exposure.
> In terms of light placement it looks to me they are using it above camera, and slightly to the right.

I shot the video, we used 2 small led lights http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1453910246&sr=8-10&keywords=canon+led+lights . I will try the bed sheet idea next time thanks. Also what is a red head?

Budget would be somewhere between $250-500.

Right now my plan is to get something like this as my main light:

http://www.adorama.com/lllc55ex.html?gclid=CPyuiK-zmtECFYtKDQodfyECig

And these as secondary lights:

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Barndoor-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B0189TA68O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20

Is there a smarter way to do this?

whatever light you get make sure it's dimmable and has a diffuser attachment. Something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Samsung-Olympus/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=asc_df_B06XDFGDCX/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292974284305&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5136241249916722319&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000813&hvtargid=pla-347938700150&psc=1

What's a great cheap LED light for car light painting? I was looking at this one, is it good? Also, if I were to use it would I need something to make the light less harsh?

Thanks. We'll be back there in a month, looking forward to it. The lighting set up is 2 LED panels mounted on tripods, one off camera left and one off camera right.


Nice shot of Delicate Arch, following you now on IG. We're on IG at @taylor_photo

I'm in the market for an inexpensive, portable, 3-point lighting solution for DSLR web videos as well. Here's what I'm leaning towards.

• 3 x NEEWER® 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light = 3 x $33 = $99
  
  Each light takes 6 AA batteries, so I'll get
  
  
• 20 pack rechargeable AA eneloop batteries = $50
  
• 2 x 16-bay AA Charger = 2 x $50 = $100
  
  I'd like to mount the lights using Gorillapods with flashshoe adapters
  
  
• 3 x Joby GorillaPod Hybrid = 3 x $40 = $120
  
• 3 x Joby GorillaPod Flash Clip for HYBRID = 3 x $5 = $15
  
  So it's less than $400 for a very portable 3 point lighting kit.

I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):

• skeleton camera case (so the mic cable can connect)
  
• extra batteries/charger
  
• 160 LED light
  
• stereo condenser
  
• accessory bracket for mic
  
• tripod GoPro mount (to connect to the grip)
  
• camera grip
  
• USB mic adapter

Get an external light. Very important. NEEWER 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfR3CbY5M4H77

Outside of that I run an i7 computer with video card, 3 Sony handy cams with Elgato Cam Link capture devices, and a blue snowball mic. Do not get the ice snowball, that one stinks. This stream is every cam set to 1080p 60 FPS with my computer outputting 1080/60 FPS. Hope that helps!

Thanks. I used this cheap video light from amazon..
I need a better one though.
http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B00FJ0RGD0/ref=lp_3347871_1_6?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1410098342&sr=1-6

I like these little guys - https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-AL-M9-Amaran-Light-Camera/dp/B01ITRLJIW

For $50 they pack a punch, have a built in battery and you can put them pretty much anywhere since they're so small.

It might be tricky to light a whole scene with them, but if you needed to by hyper mobile for like a documentary, one or two of these would be enough to get you through.

this Viltrox for me please!

And thanks for doing this! :)

I was actually thinking about doing it this way too, I was thinking about buying this light, mounting it on a hot shoe, and yeah, the microphone is a great addition would likely be better than with the Rode shotgun. And also the diverse backgrounds would be a big plus. Do you think the light is overkill? I dont want people to be getting blinded while I talk to them. But now that I'm imagining the edit, it would be kind of boring if all the stories had the same static background.

Thanks for the giveaway!

That LED panel looks like it could be handy for project/work lighting:

https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L116T/dp/B01KZLM3QC/?tag=parametrek-20

I got this LED Light with a sony battery + charger. All in all I think it cost around $50. Use it SO much and it is incredibly helpful. For the price, so so so so happy I bought it:
http://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367809658&sr=8-2&keywords=LED+light
(the battery and the charger are in "frequently bought together", buy the battery, don't waste $ on four AAs every time you shoot something.

Viltrox L116T

Thanks for all you do to support the community

If you are looking for an on camera light i can't recomend this enough. They are the best on the market https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-AL-M9-Light-Filming-Photography/dp/B01ITRLJIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525896892&sr=1-2&keywords=aputure+al-m9

Without a doubt, I’d do something awesome with this Viltrox panel.

Thank you again! I’m interested in this [Viltrox] (https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Bi-color-Dimmable-NP-F550/dp/B01MYGDGUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=viltrox&qid=1557941691&s=gateway&sr=8-7)

I'm an avid window light shooter when I work with food as well, but of course now that the darker season has hit that isn't really an option in the evening time.

Alternatively, I use a cheap video LED and a small softbox. It's not ideal by any means, but it's a quick and mobile option in your price range and sits nicely on a light stand. Here's an example of it in use without the softbox on it, taken in a very dark restaurant corner. An assistant is holding it for me camera left.

If you're shooting in a small space, it will get the job done at the price point you're at.

The first image is a sparkler, the second could be something as simple as this punk hair toy. One of the tools I use to light paint is a $30 LED brick that works great.

Setup a tripod, depending on your light source and the object you're lighting it will be 1-30+ seconds. If you're using a model they've got to sit very still for as long as the light is interacting with them.

Something like this Neewer Shoulder Rig Kit $105. Something like this Neewer 160 LED Light $32. A Rode Mic $150? Zoom H1 $100. Headphones <$100? 500ish total without the cost of a DSLR and lens.

Looks like these:

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458333618&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+led

I bought one a good while ago. Relatively cheap and has come in handy more than once.

oh yea i forgot about that. I recently bought a cheap 160 LED light panel. works great! link

Will this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NBLT9FTO2I4T&coliid=ICZCELG15I1CS fit on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/ibn/Phot-R-Professional-Photography-Adjustable-4-Section-Photo-Aluminium/B00MOM1T02/ref=pd_vtph_421_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=59V42D6BPTJTQ6XXRQNY with the use of this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kaavie-Universal-Swivel-Holder-Umbrella/dp/B006VTJQT0/ref=pd_sim_421_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7KH4QP8HFY4Q8S53TVNZ adaptor? Looking to buy all 3 in one go. Cheers!

I have a similar camera and use two of these https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Dimmable-Panasonic-Camcorders/dp/B01L75TMSM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538684608&sr=8-4&keywords=viltrox

They are clamped to the uprights on my two side displays with these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RS1N54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work very well. You can change the color temperature and brightness with a dial on the back. They also have the option of being portable with supplied Li batteries.

Ring lights are fine for close ups and interview shots, but not what you're trying to do. You should invest in these. They are relatively cheap. They are RGB LEDs, and you can control from an app.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use any standard Sony NP-F series battery, or these power supplies.

https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-American-Standard-Adapter-Switching/dp/B00OHHTTVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=YONGNUO+power+supply&qid=1570647093&s=electronics&sr=1-3

It may sound like a large investment, but they are very cheap compared to professional lighting. You can buy one at a time, and add as you need to. They are very durable, I've had about 6 of them for several years, and they always come in clutch on a shoot.

Simple three point lighting is (Key, Fill, Rim.) The key and fill go to the left and right of the camera array, and the rim be high, behind the subject (when you look at the shot this light is creating a glowing rim around your subject.)

how about just giving them a light. Like one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415290825&sr=8-1&keywords=led+video+light

They just turn it on, hold it up then take a pic.

I noticed that keeping back lighting on my editing workstation helps keep my eyes adjusted by evening out the direction of light piercing my eye balls all day/night long. They’re adjustable colors too which helps a lot when I go into color correction/grading. I’m using a couple of these - YONGNUO YN360 LED