Reddit mentions: The best outdoor generator accessories

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

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Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

I just did this a few months back (same issue with the well pump). Was originally planning on hiring an electrician to do it, but after a few youtube videos, realized I could do it myself. Very simple - hardest part was figuring out which circuits I wanted to include and wrestling 10-3 UF-B wire. The electrical part was easy.

First question you got to figure out is what kind of switch you are going to use. If you have some free breaker space in your panel, you can get an interlock switch. This is the cheapest way to go and you could power your whole house with this method (if you generator is up to it). Downside is you have to be careful about balancing your loads.

I didn't have any space in my panel so got one of these badboys. Super easy to set up and use. Lets you choose up to 10 circuits that you want to be run off the generator. It includes a bunch of documentation on how to calcualte and balance loads for your generator to decide which side you hook each ciruit up to. Also nice because when the pwoer comes back on, you will know. I very highly recommend this box and company. Great instructions and customer support, very easy to install. Seems like really solid hardware, too. They sell these at the Lowes near me in case you can't wait for amazon shipping.

In either case, I also highly recommend the remote L14-30 input box (its included in the kit that I linked to). Have it mounted somewhere outside you house where the generator will be running. You can run the aforementioned 10-3 UF-B cable out to it. Its a lot cheaper than buying a super long equivalent extension cord to get the generator a safe distance away from your home, and you also don't have to wrestle that same cord every time you need the generator (those things are heavy AF and the last thing you want to deal with in the cold/dark/rain/snow/wet/wind that is happening when you lose power).

For solar, buy anything that is Renogy brand. VERY nice stuff and well respected.

Here's the panel I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425808&sr=8-1&keywords=renogy+50+watt+panel

And the crappy PWM controller. Bought it because it was cheap. You really want an MPPT controller, but they're expensive and bulky. You can google around for the what and why, but this works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection/dp/B00L37KZI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1484425831&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+charge+controller

I have a box full of these things though!
https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-High-Precision-Meter-Power-Analyzer/dp/B00PSQPSWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425929&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+meter

Great to know what's coming from the panel, and coming out of your charge controller to the batter... or how much you're pulling OUT of the battery. 3 is ideal but if I'm out overlanding or camping, I wont use any of them. They're helpful and fun when you're setting up your kit.

Is your pellet stove your only source of heat? Do you turn it down at night? If your pellet stove pipe going out of the house has some rise to it, for the most part it still has some ability to get the smoke out due to chimney effect. If your pipe is just sticking straight out of your wall , you might want to extend the pipe up on the outside of the house to encourage more draft.

you can use a battery back up (like the kind for a computer) - they have an alarm on them and will beep while in battery mode, so that might be able to wake you up in the night to alert you that the power went out.

If the power does go out enough at your place; i would highly suggest adding a generator plus transfer switch. I have one. it is not automatic and i would have to hook up the generator to the house, flip the transfer switch etc. but i made sure the outlet my stove uses is also one of the covered circuits.

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Example Transfer Switch Kit - this is the one i used. Very happy with it. They do have other options. I have a well pump that needs 240. Just about everything in my home is covered except for the AC (i have a separate boiler for heat and hot water that is covered) and i have a sub panel for an addition on my house. If i need power for the addition i can run an extension cord.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Corporation-31410CRK-10-circuit-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O

Personally, i dont run my stove when i am sleeping or not home. I have hydronic heat for the house, the stove is to help keep the uninsulated part of the house warm. But i understand your concern and needs if it is your only heat.

Honestly a dedicated transfer switch is going to be less work than what you are proposing, and you will be up to code at the end of it. Remember someday when you sell your home you will need to most likely bring things up to code and at that point they will want an electrician to do the work or at least inspect it, so it most likely will cost you more money too.

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U/

This kind of transfer switch for one circuit is very easy to install. I have installed the six circuit version. It probably will take you 15-30 minutes to install one of these and you're good to go.

So I actually was going through all the colors and functions on it last night for other reasons and wrote out a quick table.
we did minimal brightness and highest of each color

most expensive [in amps] color was purple, pulling just about 2.3 @ full brightness

cheapest was one of the two blues pulling just under 1.1 @ full brightness,

putting the same "cheap blue" to the brightness we actual use regularly, we were pulling .7 [it was fluctuating but not by much] if we dropped it down to the most minimal we can get away with while still being able to see it hits that .1 range

We at max were able to hit 4.6 amps pulled. This was when the lights were full brightness and we had the music feature turned on [it blinks and changes color to loud noises] I saw 5 amps get hit during [flashing purple] this test, but I couldn't get it to draw constantly 5 amps ever. I also had a draw going to a USB bus at this time so numbers are likely a little inflated

I was tracking via this monitor

It's a better idea to use a machine tool style safety switch, so that if you inadvertently bump it, it doesn't fire up.

There's a few styles but the gist of them is if you bump or swat them it hits off and not on, as on is guarded. A bandsaw isn't an incredibly dangerous tool, but a $10 switch is cheap insurance.

eg


eg


eg - this kind is sort of comically large, for table saws to shut off with your knee easily.

The way it's hooked up in the pictures, the switch would control the outlet, but there's no incoming power or power going to the saw. In pic #5 are the wires you are holding coming from the motor? Is there a switch for the saw?

I can't really make sense of how it might have been hooked up based on what's left, but that doesn't really matter. Remove the switch, outlet, and wire between the two boxes. Get an appliance cord that's rated for more than the amperage of the saw, it should be listed on a label on the motor.

If there's not a separate switch for the saw, you could put in a sweet ass one like this, or a regular switch, but make sure it's rated for enough amperage, like the cord.

Depending on what you have, and what you decide to do, I can explain how to hook it up if you want.

What no that's not what I was implying.

I meant flipping the transfer switch and connecting the inverter to the generator inlet receptacle using a cord like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ML3MXK/

Totally safe and not a suicide cord. If the inverter is a good one it will output a proper sin wave between it's two outlets to support this.

That's the same series box I have!

[Here's the interlock kit.](Siemens ECSBPK03 Generator Standby Power Mechanical Interlock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q01YUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EcKmDb49TD4XT)


[Here's the inlet.](Reliance Controls Corporation PBN50 50-Amp NEMA 3R CS6375 Power Inlet Box for Generators Up to 12,500 Running Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HSO1JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YeKmDbA5CFMPT)

Just remember, the interlock hasn't been installed yet, but I held it up to the panel and it looks like it will work fine.

I'll update this thread when it's been redone correctly.

I got a reliance. I like it. Very easy to install and comes with a video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS2L3O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You are correct, I was mistaken. It was the inverter that came with the panels that was 1500w. However, here's a few decent deals under (or near) $400:

Clicky
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However, I have a really cool idea. If a strong enough brace could be made, a wind turbine could be used as the primary power source if the bus is driven every day or so anyway. This wind turbine would suit:

Clicky

sorry to keep asking questions, but I can't quite figure this out. this is my generator. i'm trying to figure out my battery bank size needs, and i'm so confused by this stuff. i'm supposed to take the wattage and multiply it by how many hours I plan on using it?

my laptop draws 162 watts, a ps4 that draws 140 watts and a tv that draws 70 watts. I review videogames for a living, so to support myself on the road, I need to have all 3 running about 5 hours a day. that's why I went with a generator instead of solar.

so can somebody please tell me how big of a battery bank I need? by my estimates, it's around 700 ah. how close am I with this figure? thanks to everybody who's helped me so far.

This won't be a hardwired installation, so if I ever do work on it I would unplug it for sure. The only downside I see to switching the neutral is that if i want to mount the switch remotely, i need to run two 3-conductor power cords to the switchbox, instead of just one.

The switch in using is a Woodstock D4157 (see link below), which I think is a pretty common switch to use on woodworking power tools.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005W17GZE

Just bought this for my gas furnace to power from my volt when the power is out:

EZ GENERATOR SWITCH - Generator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FADDE0A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I see your laptop charger has a USA plug, maybe you could buy one of these to save the volume of the extra cable and adapters.

I´ve got one of those for my xps13 charger and its really convenient

You should be fine. Just be sure to turn off all breakers that you don’t need. The interlock I plan on installing soon includes wire that I can fasten directly to my intended breaker.

Interlock

Also if it's on a 20A circuit (check the breaker if it says 20) you can put in a 5-20 receptacle or use this adapter and then use the 5-20 mobile connector (not included by standard) for another ~1mph improvement. This is what I do in my condo garage where 240V install is prohibitively expensive.

Get this: https://www.costco.ca/Firman-H08053-Hybrid-Series-Dual-Fuel-Portable-Generator.product.100364803.html

And this: Mroinge Automotive Trickle Battery Charger Maintainer 12V 1A Smart Automatic Battery Charger for Car Motorcycle Boat Lawn Mower Sla Atv Wet Agm Gel Cell Lead Acid Batteries https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7rojDbGT3EC43

Then a 30lb tank at costco filled for 85$

Then get this:

Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit with Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, and Power Inlet Box for Up to 8,000-Watt Generators https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HS2L3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3nojDb6PD5Q25


Should only cost $1000 to install from a contactor or electrician.

The make simple transfer switches for just this situation. You replace the on/off switch with the box and you are ready to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U/

Generac sells a switched neutral kit that will do your neutral for you by using the input from the generator to switch a contactor to isolate the subpanel's neutral from the bonded main panel.

It's a bit pricey, so if you know what you're doing, you can buy the same contactor they use in their setup for $14 and build the harness yourself.

The nice part is that if you follow the instructions, it's rated for any transfer switch or subpanel setup so your inspector shouldn't have any problems with it.

This is what you need - 30 amp extension cable. No one rents with them for some unknown reason, even for the Burn. We had to supply literal pallets of them for our camps. It’s a common annoyance when renting RVs for events.

TT-30 RV Power Cord 40 feet 3 Wire 10 Gauge 125volt 30 Amp 7500 watts (40ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728P221J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O1QSAbNXDGX6Z

It sucks but they’re good to have for future rentals.

Just a guess based on things I have seen in the past; The header in the top left surrounded by the white boundary could be either a serial header, a jtag header, or even USB. I'm going to do some poking and prodding to see if I can determine which it is. The pins inside the white boundary on the botttom of the board are most likely for an ethernet jack such as this one. I'm still working to deduce the other pins.

If you're in a place with a lot of rain and a shallow water table, they sell a hat

Never seen one that used actual breakers...

I'm used to seeing These transfer panels that appear to use chintzy breakers.

However, Square D makes an interlock for their panels for even cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QOCGK2C-Generator/dp/B00CONDIGO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Y-8pUQ9eL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=02A2QPPE0FTAVJN41TMS

Just buy a real transfer switch.....

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U

The conversion cables are rated for 30 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO7130/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVE93PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Correct. Dryer (30) and stove (50). Cable is a 10/3 100ft Conntek.

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RUL630PR-100-L6-30-Extension-100-Feet/dp/B074MNLD6R

Use this.

All you really need is a transfer switch of some sort and an AC inverter hooked up to your car's 12v system. Just don't draw more power than the car's dc-dc converter can make.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=asc_df_B00FADDE0A5375732/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00FADDE0A&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064505516&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12551154654095589333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011747&hvtargid=pla-320968523428

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-PL1430L630-Generator-Adapter-250-volt/dp/B00DVE93PU/

Does this look right to you?

would one of these work?

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30113-Locking-Adapter-Connector/dp/B000JCQZQW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841140&sr=8-2&keywords=conntek+nema+6-20r

Technically using this and this would work, but you should just have an electrician change the dryer breaker to a two-pole 15 amp and change the outlet to a 6-15.

After a 7 day power outage I had a generac transfer switch installed in my house (nothing motivates like winter in the north and a 7 month pregnant wife). We bought an 8000W Generator which was neutral bonded and required switch neutral kit for the install.

It all really depends on the generator from research but if the generator has a bonded neutral (as opposed to floating neutral), you should be using a switch neutral kit (setup) on the panel. If not done it can cause GFCI faults (source):


>2. Why does the generator GFCI breaker trip on some generators when used with a transfer switch?
Download Honda Generator Service Bulletin
Including but not limited to GENERAC XP series models XP4000, XP6500E, XP8000E, XP10000E and HONDA EB series Models EB3500XK1, EB5000XK1, EB6500SX, EB12DAG, and some models from Briggs and Stratton and Cummins.

> Some portable generators are intended for use on jobsites, and therefore are subject to OSHA regulations for GFCI protection on all receptacles. These "contractor grade" generators have their neutral wire bonded to the ground wire to pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Since home and building main load centers also have the neutral bonded to ground, a loop is created, comprised of the neutral wire and the ground wire. A small amount of current is induced in this loop by the running generator. and since the neutral wire passes through the ground fault sensor, the GFCI senses this induced current and trips the main circuit breaker in the generator.

> When using these neutral bonded generators to power a house or building through a transfer switch, the neutral bond wire on the generator must be removed, preferably by a dealer or a qualified electrician. NOTE: After this action, the generator will no longer pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Contact your dealer to determine if the neutral bond can be removed, and we recommend that a dealer perform this task. Honda dealers may refer to Honda Service Bulletin #20 for instructions on removing the neutral bond. Once this is done, no modifications to your transfer switch installation are needed.

> If the neutral bond cannot be removed (as is the case with Generac and Cummins), you can lift the ground wire coming from the generator inside the transfer switch, and secure it with a wire nut, by itself. This eliminates the nuisance tripping, BUT this installation will no longer be NEC compliant. Your other choice is to install a Switched Neutral Kit (SNK) accessory with your transfer switch, available thru our website.

TL;DR Neutral bonded generator, neutral should be transfered; Floating Neutral, it is not necessary.

This is the switch I used.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4157-Single-Phase-Switch/dp/B005W17GZE/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=15XRF14V9G4XFJWKJYR6

It says 2HP, but I had no problem using it with the rated amperage.