Reddit mentions: The best paper punches

Ok. So I would go with 3 rules to individually remind them. I just created this for you. There is individual ones you can hand them. There are also some big ones you can put on the board. When I do token boards, I focus on those rules. You may have other rules, but frankly those are the ones that you probably want to focus on.



Using rewards is a sticky wicket with some people. They don't believe that kids should be getting rewards for good behavior. Show them this.



Positive Behavior Interventions and Supports (PBIS), is a four letter word to a lot of teachers because admin just uses it for a laissez-faire approach to behavior management. Kids are basically able to get away with anything and everything because everything has to be positive. Which isn't how it should be implemented. However, in a class it is very effective. Classwide Positive Behavior Interventions and Supports is an awesome book to read. It will give you some proactive strategies and some reactive strategies.



They are going to need something tangible and not just points. They are going to need to see something. I would go with punch cards. I found this website this morning. I also looked around and found this site. You can create your own punch cards. Get some neon or colored index cards, colored printable labels, and some small stickers (like stars or smiley faces or the like). You can print something cool on the labels, print, and put it on the index card. Put the stickers around it. You can also get colored card stock and go to the Avery website and use one of their templates. That way you can personalize them. I would go one further and get a cool hole punch.



As for rewards. Here's the issue. If everyone is working for computers, what is their incentive to work for something special? Its not special if everyone gets it. You want a reward for them. Check out those sites. For buy in, a week is a long time for kids who have extreme behaviors that require a tier two behavior plan (which you are doing). I would do everyday for a week or two (depending on how they do). They need to get 80%. Nobody behaves 100% of the time. Hell, start out with 75%. They need to learn that good behavior equals fun and fabulous prizes. If they aren't getting that reward frequently at first, they are going to give up on it because they are going to see it as bullshit. I say two weeks because they may need more time to settle into the plan because you only see them part of the time. After 2 weeks, I would move to twice a week (Wednesday and Friday) for 2 or 3 weeks (again play it by ear). After that move it to Fridays.



You are eventually going to want to fade the support because you want to teach them that they need to behave without a reward. I would give it 5 months or so. When that happens, I would do behavior sheets once a week with the punch card (if they can, there are some that they can reflect on their behavior and you can reflect on their behavior). Do that for a while. Then do the punch card with the behavior sheet one week and just the behavior sheet the next week. Switch off the two for as long as you need to. Then fade it to just the behavior sheet and a reward at the end of the month.



I would start everything on Mondays. Its something I do. Things start fresh on Mondays.



I know that's a lot to digest. Let me know if you have any questions.

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I've got some ideas. What exactly do you need a laminator for? And are you in a decent sized city?

The Pixma Pro-100 handles cardstock perfectly. It's not going to be the most amazing print quality on most cardstocks. You need special inkjet paper which tends to be expensive. But I find it is more than adequate for my purposes using regular cardstock. I got mine on sale + a big mail in rebate that came with a Visa cash card. Overall I paid about $130 for it which is pretty good imo. I print on both sides of some real thick cardstock and then just cut them out with the paper cutter I'm going to link below. The other good thing about the printer is it handles larger paper sizes. I have 13x19 inkjet paper that it takes and the prints come out incredibly good. And that's a pretty decent size for printing the stuff I'm going to attach to chipboard.

(If you go the Pixma route, I suggest looking at some bulk inks. It has reduced my costs significantly)

I use this for a paper cutter. Works fine. You might do well to find a way to shine a light from underneath the swing arm to line up cuts but it's plenty good enough without it.

I use this corner rounder. I've done thousands of cards with it. Still good. I think if I had to buy it again though I'd look for something that was more like a traditional hole punch in using your whole hand. The one I linked gets your fingers sore after a while.

The reason I asked about where you live is because if you live in a good sized city, you may have access to fab labs. My public library has one with a laser cutter. It makes making tokens a breeze. And because it's at the library for me, it's freeeeeeee. Print on some label paper. Slap the fronts and backs onto a sheet of chipboard. Stick it in the laser cutter and voila, perfect tokens. They'll come out slightly singed but overall they're great.

How much are you going to print and play?

If it's not a lot, I would say just skip the printer. It's $130 at its cheapest and that's not even counting the cost of replacing the ink. If you're only going to print a few games and they're not that intense, just go to a local printshop and use their high quality business laser printers. They print super sharp into label paper and card stocks. Print the fronts on one, the backs on the other, stick em together, cut it out with the paper cutter. It's a bit of work but the finished product looks great.

Hi! I'll be a fresh(wo)man at Mills College in a couple of weeks! I'm thinking that I'll major in Biology, towards Pre-Veterinarian, but since I don't have to declare till sophomore year, I'm not completely sure yet. An interesting fact about the campus is that there is a feral cat colony on campus!

I would absolutely love this, for when I need to put a report in my binder, this to carry around my ultrabook, and an Amazon Gift Card, for buying things I might need that aren't coming to mind at the moment!! The first two add up to $22.33, so I'll leave the amount for the gift card up to you if I win :) Thanks for the contest!

Good luck to everyone, in the contest and at school!

I bought this one from kikk-k, it's the large watermellon "live what you love" time planner. This was USD$79.99 when I ordered it a couple of months ago, but right now it's 20% off for USD$63.96 - nice!
I also bought the Rapesco 6-hole punch off of Amazon & I just marked with tape the place to punch specifically for the Kikki-K & my own custom inserts I wanted to start/have started making for myself (slightly different dimensions than the Kikki-K). There's a tutorial on google/youtube if you look for it! :) also I have just a regular hole punch and just use a Kikki-k page as a template of where to punch the holes. I really love the quality of this planner & the ability to literally put WHATEVER I want in it and can change it all the time. I would say just the beginning investment of the leather organizer can be an investment, but right now with the sale, these last for a long time I've heard if you take good care of them! Also you can always just buy more inserts from Kikki-K or other places that sell A5 6-hole punched inserts like on Etsy. Maybe try the personal size if the large is too big? Slightly less expensive too I would expect.
Hope this helps!
-K
[EDIT: phrasing]

To make the roses I used McGill paper punches specifically this one Rose. Just follow the instructions, I made about 80 different flowers for my bouquet and 30-40 flowers for each bridesmaids bouquet. You have to punch all the itty bitty petals out then shape each one, which is the most painstaking part but if you get some friends to help it goes by a lot faster. Also, the best glue is Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive for gluing the paper. Then, you just hot glue each flower to a floral stem. You'll cut each wire down to about 3-4 inches. Then you get a floral foam ball and cut about 1/3 off the bottom, then just start sticking the flowers in with alternating colors. You'll want to hot glue each stem after you stick it in to make sure it doesn't come out. The little sparkling metal things are actually hair pins I got from a $1 store and I just stuck those in and hot glued them down, same with the pearls(those were from hobby lobby in the floral section). I then cut a small hole in the bottom and hot glued a dowel rod to the base and add something like this bouquet holder. I glued pearl string to the base, wrapped the rod in ribbon and glued some jewels to the handle. I also glued a 2013 penny to the bottom of the handle for good luck (couldn't put it in my shoe). Anyway, I pretty much got everything from hobby lobby and I might post a tutorial with pictures later if I have time!

Started creating my own Amiibo coins thanks to some inspiration gained from seeing the work of a few of you on this server. Figured I'd share what I've created thus far in case anyone is interested! Here’s a link to the PSD template. Please forgive the fact that the Super Smash Amiibos aren't all grouped together because I started just creating the BOTW-compatible Amiibos first, then decided to keep going :P

The coins are 1" in diameter. Used a 1” circle punch to cut them out and housed them inside 30mm coin capsules with the included fitted foam inserts. Going to color code the rim of the foam so that I can easily identify the Amiibo series when they're in the case.

Have some 1” plastic counters on the way to provide some rigidity to the images and "fill out" the capsule a little better. Excited to get it all finished up so they can be put to good use!

If you want an inexpensive laminator, I bought this one from amazon (http://amzn.to/2kxWSdz). It was around $22. It does one page at a time and seems to do a fine job. I only have experience with this one laminator, but for taking paper things and covering them with plastic it seems to work pretty well. It only comes with 5 pages of lamination material, so you will need to pick up a pack of the lamination pages. A pack of 100 of the "laminating pouches" cost around $12 on amazon. "Pouches" is kind of a misnomer. They open kind of like a clamshell (connected on one edge, the other three sides open). You slide whatever you want to laminate inside, then slide it through the machine. It was a little difficult getting the hang of laminating a bunch of small pieces on one sheet. The trick I used was to put a book in front of the laminator that was even with the level of the input slot, that way you could just gently slide the page forward without moving the little pieces around inside. My first few attempts were done just holding it by hand and feeding it in and I ended up having pieces move and overlap and get laminated overlapping each other.

I would also recommend a corner cutter (like this: http://amzn.to/2k64w1u). When I was cutting out laminated cards/pieces, I ended up with pointy corners. It wasn't a big deal, but being able to round out the corners makes things just feel better to handle.

The whole setup cost about $45 from amazon for laminator, 100 pages (of which I still have plenty left) and the corner cutter.

After buying a laminator, I ended up discovering all kinds of things that I didn't realize needed lamination. :)

http://www.stampalbums.com is by far the most accessible and easy to use pages. It's also the cheapest solution out there with little to no effort involved. For I think $20 you get a subscription for a year I think. You can download every country he's built albums for in that year. He updates pretty normally and will answer any questions you have.

Another option is page layout software. The prices vary wildly from $19 - $100. This is pretty labor intensive and just as bad as using graph paper. Regardless of what you use it's the paper that's most important. It needs to be acid and lignin free paper (archival safe). I use a heavy card stock paper http://www.thepapermillstore.com/astroparche-blue-card-stock-8-1-2-x-11-in-65-lb-cover-vellum-30-recycled-250-per-package.html

It holds up very well, but makes for thick binders. The pages don't flex and cause you mounts or hinges to break bond.

Edit... I forgot to mention a few more customizations to pages that will help. I round the corners with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B7S4FK and also use cloth hole reinforcements on the ring holes like these but made of a fabric http://www.viking-direct.co.uk/a/pb/Avery-Reinforcement-Rings-Clear-Box-Of-500/id=43409/

If you're in the mood for bargain hunting you can find vendors that sell the lighthouse three hole binders with dust jackets on the cheap. They often sell then in packs of three.
http://www.lighthouse.us/epages/lighthouse.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/leuchtturm_us/Products/VARIOG3RNGBL/SubProducts/VARIOG3RNGBL



Edit edit.... Ok deleted my other comment so this is the only one you should see.. No confusion that way. This should be just about everything you need to make a better album. Mix it up and use your own colors pictures scalloped page edges etc... It's the neat part of the process. It also looks much better than a plain jane album. It will last a really long time and it's something about the hobby that you can say you contributed in.

A few days late here, so for all I know you've already purchased, but I have one called the "Sunstar Kadomaru Pro, Corner Cutter (#S4765036)" and I really love it. It does three different corner sizes, so you can experiment with an index card or something and see which angle works best. I got it from Amazon here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've trimmed the borders off a number of decks, and this guy always makes my corners look great. (I wish the same could be said for my edges -- I'm still working on doing those cuts as evenly as I'd like...but hey, at least my corners always look good...)

I've spent some time looking into this for my own filofaxes (one planner, one university notes), but unfortunately I've not been able to find anything. Filofax paper isn't very good for fountain pens, as a general rule.

The two things I use:

• A4 bank paper, halved and then hole-punched myself. The paper is very lightweight (45gsm) but also very sturdy and takes fountain pen ink well - although it's probably too thin for felt tips, I would imagine.
  
• Dotted A5 from dotgrid.co., again hole-punched myself. The paper is thick and sturdy at 104gsm and I've never had any problems with bleed through or the like. It can take watercolour pretty well, too.
  
  For my hole punch, I use the Rapesco adjustable punch. It's a bit annoying because you have to effectively punch every sheet twice (you have to punch one set of three and then turn it around and punch the other set) but it does the trick. I usually sit down for an hour or so of cutting, punching, and filing sheets in my two filofaxes every month. It's a bit laborious, yes, but the end result is pretty much perfect for my needs so I don't mind!

What type of three-ring binder are you using? Always use a larger size than you think you need, and go with the "D" ring binding style. The older style circle binding tends to jam up but the D rings are great if the binder is large enough.

If you really want to go the spiral route, it can be expensive to use a company like staples. You are better off purchasing the machine and equipment, it is pretty reasonable and pays for itself if you are making more than one.

This binding machine is under $40, can bind up to 450 sheets of paper in each book, and comes with 10 spiral bindings. If you need more, you can buy a 100 pack of spiral bindings for under $10, just make sure you buy the right "sheet capacity" size bindings. (i.e. if you need to make a 250 page book, buy bindings that have at least a 250 sheet capacity or greater).

Ok, this is what got me through engineering undergrad:

• A zipper binder. Carry all your notebooks and writing utensils and a calculator.
  
  
• Similar to your notebook choice: Wirebound + 3-hole notebook so it goes in your zipper binder. One for each note-taking class.
  
  
• Binder 3-hole punch, if when you get handouts in class that you want to put in your notebooks chronologically, but hasn't been punched.
  
  
• Hole protectors. You'll need them. Trust me.
  
  
• 0.3mm lead is a lot easier to come by than 0.2mm. Get a good 0.3mm drafting pencil instead. Get a good eraser too - don't get used to using the shitting pencil-tip erasers. A bonus to using non-standard lead pencils - people are much less likely to bum lead off you.
  
  
• Scientific calculator. You really don't need a graphing calculator, in my experience. Anything beyond a Scientific calculator you can do it on Mathematica or MatLab or Maple or whatever your school provides on their computer labs. Look through this list and choose one, because you'll eventually use that on your FE/PE exams, and it's better to walk into those exams with 4 years of experience on your calculator already.
  
  
• Eventually you'll be printing out your résumé, and shitty computer paper isn't going to do it. Don't shell out for stupid "résumé paper", I have a whole rant about that and the paper industry's creation of fictitious product demands, but that's another story. Make your résumé professional, concise, and elegant (good résumé-writing is worth another lengthy discussion), and then print it out on some cardstock - a bit firmer, a bit more professional than crappy computer paper.
  
  All of this will probably fit in your cool zipper binder.
  
  This was kinda fun, actually.

I think my DM would prefer more theatre of the mind, but I am absolutely bollux with it and my group is very tactically minded. So we use a mat + minis the vast majority of the time.

This mat is our go-to for pretty much every encounter. It's easy to use, easy to store, and reusable by anyone in anything we're running, from one-shots to our major campaign.

If we want to work up a dungeon in advance, then there's something more like this. I've used both ways. They're both great.

Minis, you can do in several ways.

Here are 5,000 translucent round tokens that are smaller than an inch. You can use your wet erase marker from your battle map to write numbers on them. You can also use them to denote status effects. There are tons of different colors that you can get them in and in smaller batches than this one, but this will give you an idea of what to look for.

Here are 1" wooden circles. They also come in 2" and 3" varieties. That gives you Small/medium, Large, and Huge creatures.

Oh, and here's a tutorial on how to make paper circle tokens. You can print these out on cardstock, cut them out, and use a glue stick to stick them to your wooden tokens.

And! If you don't want to cut out a shit ton of little paper tokens, you can buy paper punches that will cut them for you. I have them in 1", 2" and 3" size.

I also have Paizo minis, but the circle tokens get used a lot more because they're much more versatile. And players love being able to have their own token for their character.

I love Dexcom. You'll get way better control without even trying... at least to the mid 8s short term. You'll be subconsciously learning how each individual food/insulin reacts with your body.

You can leave the sensor on after 1st session, just restart it (7 days). They typically last 14-20 days to me, before the numbers are EVERYWHERE.

If you do the adhesive will be the first to come off. Get some opsite flexifix ^^disclaimer: ^^I ^^did ^^not ^^receive ^^any ^^compensation ^^for ^^this.

If you get the Opsite, consider this hole punch ^^See ^^disclaimer ^^above.

The CGM can be put on your upper arm, legs, etc.

The CGM gives you a general idea of how your sugar is going, but not exact numbers. It tends to lag behind BS a little bit (5-10min?) due to the way it works. Don't calibrate right after you eat/dose.

When you take a shower (especially hot ones) your blood sugar will spike. Yes, it's normal. It's temporary. It's not a sensor issue. I have witnessed it on a Freestyle Libre and Good old finger pokes as well.

Don't leave your receiver in your pocket when you go swimming. I made this $200 mistake... (Dexcom is graceful enough to give you a "first time oops" discount of $200 instead of full price) Similarly, be ready to explain to kids what a pager is.

No worries, I'm happy to answer any questions. The adhesive that the sensor comes with is ok, but it doesn't even last a full week for most people. I like to secure it with Opsite Flexifix. I'm still on the first roll I purchased back in 2015, make sure to get the one that is 4" across. I cut out a patch like this, except I use a tag punch to cut out the center hole (I got mine on ebay for $9). I also use [Patch Peelz] (https://pumppeelz.com/collections/patch-peelz) sometimes. Some people use GrifGrips or Rocktape. Lots of people swim and do all sorts of sports/ physical activity and the extra adhesive helps keep the Dexcom secure. I've heard of people who wear it on their arm using an additional arm band over the sensor/transmitter when playing contact sports to ensure it doesn't get knocked off.

hah yea. I got a corner punch just for this campaign. I print on cardstock so they have some thickness to them. All my HotAC printed cards are cut that way :)

Its time consuming, but looks really good.

[edit] Wow. I made a list in Excel of all the extra pilots and i totally missed Braylen :| feels bad. Glad you got it in your list tho haha.

• These notebooks. It works like a binder. You can take paper out, put new paper in and move stuff around as you see fit.
  
  
• To go with the notebook is this hole punch. With this you are also able to put in important documents that you use every lesson.
  
  
• These pens. They are erasable and have a very fine tip so they are ideal for drawing diagrams and writing super small.
  
  
• I just switched to a big enough pencil case so that I'm able to have my calculator in it.
  
  
• Evernote premium is something I use for so many school realted things that I feel like I have to mention it. I have not tried One Note.

I work in architecture and have a pretty deep understanding of reprographics and what any decent print shop is capable of. I'm personally very excited to make what should be, in most cases, much nicer cards than what PP used in the past. I just checked the errata card PDF they released and you can get a 600dpi image for each card, have it printed on a nice linen or even plastic cardstock and use a corner punch so they have nice rounded corners and fit perfectly into some of the better sleeves available specifically for MTG/popular card game sizes.

I know the DIY/crafty aspect to miniature gaming hasn't historically extended much beyond painting/sculpting/terrain modeling, but why not give a nice set of cards the same treatment we give our beloved minis?

Doesn’t it?!

I got the set of all 3 tool sizes with 3 small rolls of foil on Amazon for ~$61. They are about $99 for all three at We R memory keeper’s site and at other craft stores. A single tool is ~$40.

We R Memory Keepers 660579 Starter Kit, Multicoloured https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011NB4G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OD32CbZYDFEQM

I never leave Amazon reviews, but I might in this case. The price seemed too good to be true, but they came and they work great so far.

It’s just one from amazon! I love it bc I mess up all the time so it’s nice to just take the pages out. I also use this hole punch which is amazing bc you can change the spacing so your pages can fit any binder you get! I got it for really cheap at a local Tuesday morning but you can also find it Michael’s and Joann’s and use a coupon it. And I love that too so that you can choose whichever paper you like in it.

My DMing system:

Step 1) Download GIMP (free)

Step 2) Make a grid of 1-inch circles that you can print out with pictures in them (I can send you the file I use)

Step 3) Buy one of these 1-inch hole punches (or use scissors), super glue, and 1-inch washers (grand total of maybe 15-30 bucks?)

Step 4) Print out tokens, cut them out, and superglue them to washers. You can also add numbers, and make the tokens double sided for a "bloodied" condition for monsters. Works out to like 5 cents per token, and a bit of time.

Step 5) Buy one of these pads of grid paper. Can shop around for a good price, can draw multiple maps on one sheet if they're small, use pencil so you can get multiple uses out of it, or just play on a grid. Also lets you draw on the fly, or take a piece of paper and pre-prepare a map before the session.

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Total cost should be less than 50$ for months of play. You can also buy different sized washers for small, large, or huge tokens, and they make hex grid paper as well. For fancy tokens (I do it for players and recurring NPCs) you can print on high quality photo paper, or laminate the page before cutting, or just put packing tape over the token.

You can buy them here. You have to buy them in packs of 50 for like $70. I believe they're priced that way because they own a patent for the matte finish laminate and they are "industrial" grade. It works amazingly well with thicker mecahnical pencil lead (0.9mm or thicker). It almost looks like you're writing with a marker, and then completely erases with no trace.

They sent me a free sample of them, so I did a couple for AQ, too:

• Arcadia Quest campaign trackers from official PDFs
  
• Arcadia Quest campaign tracker on matte side, rules on glossy side
  
  I bought a corner cutter to clean the corners up. Works very well, too. I got that from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  

I'm only in the middle of my first grow, but I went with Rootmaker propagation cells to prevent root circling and promote greater root branching before the girls are ready for fabric pots.

You might be able to recreate something similar (and cheaper) with a longer hole punch in plastic cups (though you may have to cut the cup down a bit.)

It's also probably worthwhile to checkout Rockwool starter cubes.

"English paper piecing" is the term, not "English paper". It's a hand-stitching craft that is sort of a variation of quilting. The paper pieces are used as a stiffener that the fabric is folded around which are then stitched together into patches that are then stitched together to make larger pieces like quilts.

This might work a little better - it apparently cuts a 2.5" hexagon point to point with 1.25" sides. Tbh though, a rotary wheel cutter or craft knife with a clear plastic or glass template of the size hexagon you want would probably work best.

Some people use a type of ring stretching/sizing machine. They are muscle-powered but not especially cheap.

It can also be done using a jeweler's doming or dapping block and a set of appropriate domed punches to gradually bend the metal from a washer into a band. They are also not cheap, however.

The cheapest way would probably be to use a steel ring mandrel and a rawhide or plastic mallet. Whatever method you choose, it would be best to begin by annealing the coin with a torch to make the metal easier to work.

Making a ring like that takes a bit of skill and knowledge, no matter how easy it may look online. Screwing up is part of the learning process. You could try practicing on old British or Canadian large cents, or some other cheap, large coin. The key is to bend the metal evenly without stretching it too much, though some stretching will occur.

This is the 3-hole punch that I use, and I've had it for years. It's awesome.

For pencil sharpeners, even when I find one that's great, I usually have to replace it each year due to heavy use.

Honestly, I’m not sure? It’s leftover cards from a target stationary box I bought over a decade ago... They’re a little thinner than cardstock but thicker than an index card. I’m also considering getting something like this ( Fiskars Crafts English Paper Punch Acrylic Set, 2 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q3CFWT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_69vKBbGTEFABJ ) to make punching them out easier.

These chips are the same weight/feel of the Splendor chips:

http://www.amazon.com/Da-Vinci-Striped-Poker-11-5gm/dp/B0006HBC04/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450822729&sr=8-7&keywords=11.5+gram+poker+chips

they measure 40mm in diameter. Get yourself a circle punch like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Punch-Bunch-Mega-Circle-40mm/dp/B0050FDF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450822931&sr=8-1&keywords=circle+punch+40mm

Some heavy duty label paper, a nice printer and some mild photoshop skills and you're in business.

The reviews on that punch are not great so a trip to the local craft shop might be in order.

There is a product sold at most arts and crafts stores called 'a corner rounder'.

I've used them to great success when marking or indexing regular decks of cards!

Google to make sure it would fit a regular bicycle card well, but I think this one might work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B7S4FK

Get some wooden disc's from Amazon or a craft store.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSV14JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p-XVDbR27GSP7

Also get a circle punch of the same size: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NESBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vaYVDbEGWXAV3

You can either print out artwork on cardstock or even use common pokemon cards to punch out the art.

Take a tiny bit of Elmer's glue, wood glue or some sticky tack, and glue the art to the wooden discs. Boom. High-quality tokens.

This is a trick used in the Roleplaying community to make tokens for their characters and NPCs without breaking the bank. ~15 dollar investment gets you like 100 tokens.

I reccomend between 1 inch and 1 1/2 inch for the size. Depends on your purposes.

Have fun!

How did you make the corners super round?

I'd really like that. My current cards are sharp and pointy.

Aha! Found out.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS

Which opening did you cut with?

posted above, but we use on of these to punch the perfect sized hole for the sensor: https://www.amazon.com/Ek-Tools-Tag-Punch-Classic/dp/B017JIPZZU

Are you also into print and play then?

Thanks for the link, I'll go for this one instead. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-S4765036-Japanese/dp/B0076FJ7SS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pdt_img_sims?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS

Great for any thin player boards and player aids. Keeps the corners from gettings dinged up.

Non-spill travel mug. I really like the OXO brand which is $19.99 (maybe less from another site). You can also get them at places like Fred Meyer. I've had two, only because I lost the first one.

Are they living on their own? How about a rice cooker? This one gets four stars, it's red, and it's $18.96.

A 3-hole punch to get organized. This one is on sale.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537575611&sr=8-4&keywords=corner+rounder

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It's nice, relatively inexpensive, and has three choices of round.

you can opsite as a 4"x3' roll: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SIQCRI, which is what i do and just cut out the center with this stamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017JIPZZU (fits perfectly for the g5)

I bought my last roll in mid 2015 and im only about a quarter way done.

I honestly don’t know. You might want to consider buying one of these. I have one. Ofc, you would have to hole punch few papers at a time but sometimes, when I print almost 1000 pages worth. I hole punch them using these while watching tv. Could take an hour though. https://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Binder-Sheets-Assorted-RBHP-4C/dp/B005MWPJWU

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So, I make my own cards for things every once in a while, and I have this corner rounder. You could trim the sides, then re-cut the corners, and you'd never be able to tell the difference. :)

If you use this punch tool with the tape, it cuts out a hole nearly the exact size of the sensor. I use it with a roll of opsite, it's awesome. Ek Tools Tag Punch Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017JIPZZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XvRmxbHMQMP8V

https://smile.amazon.com/Avery-Inches-Durable-Binder-18447/dp/B00O48K38S/ref=sr_1_9?crid=OFO5PPJ5KAIT&keywords=mini+binder%5D&qid=1557301363&s=gateway&sprefix=mini+bin%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-9


pair that with something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Swingline-Precision-Adjustable-Capacity-74037/dp/B0006HUPHU/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1ST5Z1GP8MI0X&keywords=adjustable+hole+punch&qid=1557301545&s=gateway&sprefix=adjustable+hole+%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5


and you can add any pages you need for notes etc

Here's all the files you'll need.

For the paper, I just use standard 8.5x14" Legal paper. My printer has a duplexer, but it won't duplex legal, so I had to do a manual duplex (flipping the paper over by hand and printing everything again). The cover is 65lb Bristol Board and was manually duplexed as well.

My books have 10 pages in them, which is made by two sides of 5 sheets of paper. The pages print 2-up per page and they are cut down the middle long-ways, that way when you fold them in half, the score sheet appears on the front page and the notes page ends up on the back of the score sheet. 5 sheets of paper make two books. I have a paper cutter that can cut the full length of the legal sheet, but if you don't, you can simply use a straight edge and a razor blade, or if you have a regular paper cutter, you can just fold the pages in half on the short edge, then cut them in half on the long edge.

Once everything is stapled, I round the corners using a corner cutter. Here's a cheaper corner cutter, but it can't handle the whole book at once. I have both of those corner cutters, and the cheaper one comes in very handy for other projects I do.

In that link is both Trap and Skeet books. I have a doubles sheet, but I need to finish the cover. Once I get done with it, it'll be in that link as well.

Sure thing

I imagine you can find them at your local craft store as well.

It's $40 on Amazon Prime

We R Memory Keepers 660579 Starter Kit, Multicoloured https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011NB4G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.S8GDbBA52MVZ

For the 2.5mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the 3mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2.5mm is closer to American corners. 3mm is closer to Japanese corners.

Or for $30 you can get one of these and make your own. Ek Tools Tag Punch Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017JIPZZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e9pnybRNBC2MF

I believe it is used to place the plastic loop type binding on books.

Similar to this: https://smile.amazon.com/FLK-Tech-Binding-Machine-Starter/dp/B07D699SDK

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Bostitch-Binder-Assorted-RBHP-ASST/dp/B005MWPJWU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1346208066&sr=8-4&keywords=binder+with+hole+punch

Semi B5 is 179 mm x 252 mm (approx 7" x 9.9")

Paper:

You can get semi B5 grid paper pads from Maruman and use 26-hole spiral notebook.

Maruman grid paper 5mm x 5mm squares

Maruman grid paper that unfolds fits in B5 size but unfolds to B4 landscape

Storage:

Maruman pad holder

Kokuyo Campus slide binder

Carl Neo 26-hole punch, to use with any paper

punch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/

protip: they sell hole punchers that fit IN a 3-ring binder.

Worthless kids today.

You can either buy paper with the 26 holes or punch it yourself with a special hole puncher!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Q5Y4EW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500834190&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=26+hole+puncher&dpPl=1&dpID=41KzY0ewnAL&ref=plSrch

Sorry for the yucky looking link, but that's the hole punch you'd need.

Here's an image of a print-and-play (cardstock, laminated, corner-cut) I did. I used one of my Kadomaru Pro cutters. Great device! (It's not heavy duty like that other link, but I did try something heavier duty and messed up a few cards as they didn't cut right. That's just the one brand, though, not the one someone else linked to here.)

I use a similar method.

I layout my cards in Gimp and print them on Polaroid photo paper that I get at the Dollar Tree. 8 sheets for a buck = 72 cards.

I cut them on with a Fiskar rotary cutter and usually sleeve them with a cut down 3x5 card as backing for a little extra stiffness in UltraPro sleeves. But, if it's something that I want to keep...

I use a Swingline laminator with Apache pouches and corner punch them with the Kadomaru Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010PK3G96/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FORXKOC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/

The rotary cutter was a little under twenty bucks at Walmart. It was cheaper than Amazon when I bought it.

1. Go to office max, print furry cards on double-sided glossy stock for >$.75 a page
   
2. Cut them out using a paper cutter or a ruler + razor blade
   
3. Get one of these bad babies and round those corners!
   
4. BAM cards that you can mix in with your regular deck with CONFIDENCE!

Printing: 9€
Punching tool: 8€
576 cuts, 576x pressing the puncher amazon link

300g/sqm paper.

No pics, sorry. No excuse, just lazy. >_> It would be a pain to get any of those games out at the moment.

This is the corner cutter I use. I used to use a hand-held one I got at Michael's, but it was a pain to clean out and uncomfortable to use for very long.