(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best powersports drive train parts

What bike?

Honestly, something like this is probably perfectly fine.

https://www.amazon.com/XFMT-Heavy-Motorcycles-O-Ring-Master/dp/B06VT91FZ1/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675331&sr=8-20&keywords=525+chain

Before chains got fancy with O rings, then X rings then XVXZY rings, we simply went down the to the local bike shop and they pulled how every many links off a big roll.

If you wanted to be fancy, you got the "Made in USA" Diamond brand chain. Otherwise, it was on a roll from Asia.

Although, I run gold plated EK X rings chains now...

Yes, do the 650r sprocket. Get a cone shaped grinding wheel to slightly flare out the sprocket to fit where the shaft splines taper off, don't just hammer it on as I have seen some do, Also slather the shaft with antizieze or waterproof grease once your test fit is good and a dab of blue locktite on the retainer bolts. The 14t makes it so much more enjoyable and drivable. I used this one. JT Sprockets JTF1307.14 14T Steel Front Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW68E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YAUizbBJWASJM

Before you go the route of replacing, buy a seal mate or product like it. Chances Are your seal is fine and a lil dirt is there, these tools get dirt out and helps to make the seal work again. Only $10-20 bucks depending on which you get

Edit: Risk Racing 00-213 Small 35mm - 45mm Seal Doctor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTY6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YPkIAbA4QFGBG

This is the one I use, there are cheaper alternatives, but I find this to be the best made and easiest to use. Attaches to fork, slides down into seal, rotate and lift as it completes a full circle, and done. Give it a few pumps to make sure no more fork oil coming out.

Since you are deciding between 1x10 and 2x10 (indicating some apprehension of being limited to 10 gears), if you decide to go 1x10, best thing to do is to get One Up's cassette modification kit to widen your gearing range. In that case, you will just need:

• A new Shimano cassette, as normal.
  
• One Up's 42 tooth sprocket. (You can also get the 40-tooth if you think you don't need so wide a range.)
  
• A front chain ring (go with a narrow-wide design to help keep your chain in place). Here is One Ups's, which is a few bucks more, but gives you spacers so you can use the bolts from your old configuration. A little cheaper is raceface's chainring; not sure it comes with spacers though.
  
• Get a new chain. KMC 10 speed is fine.
  
• Tools: an allen key set, cassette lockring tool (with a wrench), chainwhip, and a chainbreaker tool.
  
  Setting it up is easy, pretty much take out 2 sprockets in the cassette, and put the One Up sprockets in the proper locations. And there are plenty of online guides re converting to 1x10 from the 3x drivetrain (also very straightforward).

Just through Amazon. Get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7K5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fceBDb8Y9KDY0

Then something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QHQHPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4eeBDb2YYTRZJ

Then some spacers, how thick depending on where your chainline falls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HOI6F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NheBDb9NZ1JFR

You may also need longer bolts, depending. You can definitely find all manner of videos on YouTube, many of which were made by people that know what they’re doing a whole lot better than I do.

Consider the 16 tooth sprocket for your first upgrade. It will require some minor wrenching and a few tools, but almost everyone agrees that the bike should have come from the factory with the 16 tooth front installed. It makes second and first gear much more usable, and the bike better pretty much all around.

edit: instructional video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkibrlgqL_A

Gorgeous looking bike, have fun!

I went with Competition Werkes exhaust with the baffle and their tidy tail kit. Fairly cheap, I think $650 shipped from them. I did see the tidy tail separately on Amazon and Revzilla for about $20 cheaper the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQSXb2j4V-/

I've read all over that tuning for the exhaust on the 13+ years is a pain, but isn't neccessarily required. I havnt noticed any difference in power, but it does pop on decel a ton. Some people complain about hesitation off the line, but I havnt had any issues

The M4 GSXR 750 exhaust will bolt right up and looks and sound pretty damn good for $260

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvLXpTjo-S/

11-16 SUZUKI GSXR600 & 750: M4 GP Series Slip-On Exhaust - Black (BLACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C68PNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5fIJybTM02DJ6

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQOJNYDhpw/

I reused the old turn signals so I wouldn't have to cut the wires. They included smaller ones with splice connectors

I didn't want to go too crazy and drill a bigger hole so I used their plate light and had to splice 2 wires

The fit and finish of the kit is great for the price. A little gap here or there, but it feels solid and everything works

I also got a Supersprox stealth 45T for $100 on Amazon

+2 over stock and makes a bit of difference. Will fit on a broken-in stock chain too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPP_VqHjYk6/

Supersprox Stealth Gold 530 45 Tooth Rear Sprocket for Triumph 955 1050 Speed Triple Daytona Sprint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF7XXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c7HJyb5C9XEJW

My next mod will be a steel braided line for the rear. I noticed that when I took off the chain guard, my chain had touched the brake line and scuffed it a bit. I had to adjust the banjo bolt to avoid it touching again. I'll be replacing that ASAP

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice as I can't find any additional information on this no matter where I look. I need to replace the chain/sprocket on my 2003 SV650. I've narrowed down my choice to one product but there are two versions:

15/45 110L

15/45 114L

Guys...for the life of me I can't find a difference. Is it the number of links in the chain? Because I can't find what my OEM version is. Looking for any help I can get, thanks!

They're fairly cheap, this is the kit I used when I did my swap: https://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Steering-Kawasaki-Eliminator/dp/B000GU3Y66

They're just the ball-bearings in your motorcycle's steering stem that allow you to turn the handlebars left & right. The stock bearings on the 300 usually wear out at anywhere from 8000-16000km and start causing wobble/instability.

Only costs about $40 to replace, but takes a bit of time, patience, and elbow grease. Will really help you get to know the bike though lol.

On my DRZ400E (Stock street legal) I changed the front sprocket from 14T to 15T.

I had to grind the case saver (stops the chain smashing into the case if the chain comes off) so it would fit. Or you could buy an aftermarket case saver.

This is the sprocket I bought($15USD). http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF432-15SC-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B005DUMZX2

While you have the front sprocket off you may as well do the loctite mod http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/

The gearing isn't too high for trail riding for me but I only weigh 65kg so this may not be relevant to you...

This dropped my revs around 500 (from 6000 to 5500rpm) at 100kmh

Any queries I would be happy to answer. I could also tell you about changing the rear sprocket (47T to 43T) if you want.

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

• Degreaser
  
• Chain Brush
  
• Chain Lube
  
• Waterless Wash/Wax
  
• Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Brush
  
  I clean and lube the chain about every 500 miles.
  Never pressure wash your electrical components (I just don’t pressure wash at all). Other than that, just changing the oil per the schedule and making sure everything runs fine.

My guess would be that the spacer or flange is needed to perfectly align with the rear sprocket. It should be evident enough when you take a look under the cover.

It looks like the Vortex sprocket has it, maybe try that next time?

> Is there any way to tell by looking?

lol yeah, one has a solid nose and the other has a hollow nose. The ends of the master link tell you.

Solid nose have a solid nose

Hollow nose have a hole on the end

I got about 7k out of my OEM. I tried the JIT, and will never do another (broke, and not at the master link). I went with a heavier chain this last time and it's been awesome - more than 12k on it now, very little adjustments needed, and no kinking so far.

DID Chain for NC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85ULQ

Spare Master Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTJJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FWIW, I have the OEM sprockets still on at 30K and they both still look good. When it comes time to get new sprockets, I will be going with OEM again.

This is a variant of an L-Faster motor kit. I just recently picked up a 36v version on Amazon for about $90 USD. Let me take you on a dead-end journey.

I bought this kit with the intention of putting in on a donor bike and powering it with three cheap SLA batteries in serial. Shortly after ordering this kit, I get an email from the seller telling me that any battery I use with the kit has to have a working current of 20A or less or else the controller will be fried. Not a big deal since I'm working with SLA batteries of 10ah or less.

When I received the kit, I got kinda antsy and wanted to see if the mounting plate would fit on my current bike only to find out that it did not. But my bike isn't some off-the-shelf department store bike, so I shrug and started looking for a donor bike. After searching thrift stores, pawn shops and yard sales, I find an old steel framed twelve speed for $20 that also has the left side seat and chain stays at the correct angle for the mounting bracket. I figure it'll just be a quick afternoon project to get it running.

Except the kit is meant to be mounted on the left side. The kit came with a threaded freewheel socket that was supposed to just screw into place on on the hub. But this is a department store bike, so the left side of the wheel hub is just smooth, unthreaded metal. So I watch a few Youtube videos to see what I'm missing. and none of them are any help. I would just use the sprocket from a gas motor kit, but that means I have to figure out how to remove the nine tooth fixed sprocket from the motor and mount the sixteen tooth freewheel to the gearbox shaft on the motor.

Right now, I'm thinking about mounting the whole thing on the right side by removing three gears from the cassette and mounting the freewheel sprocket in their place, but I don't even know if that's possible since this bike is probably over a decade old and obviously from Walmart.

In short, you need to know exactly what you're doing before you buy one of these things. It could be exactly what you're looking for. For all I know, it could be a neat little ride for short trips around town, but I have no way to mount this thing and I haven't found a single bike that I can actually mount it to.

https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-M530HD-120-Connecting/dp/B00BV6W6DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501682128&sr=8-4&keywords=RK+530+chain

Get something like that. Plenty strong for a Vulcan.

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

I plan on doing my clutch on a Honda CTX700 this winter and researched this tool. I have not used it yet, but plan on buying one.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539747355&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clutch+holding+tool+motorcycle&dpPl=1&dpID=41M7fFZrFOL&ref=plSrch

Also impact tool works, but this tool costs less.

There is also a dog leash method on YouTube. (Basically friction around the outside of the clutch. Like a strap wrench)

Use a torque wrench and make sure bolts are to spec. If not get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8

You probably need something like this. As you can see, not a huge investment to do the job right. Check your service manual or bike specific forums to see if they recommend a specific tool.

I would not ride around knowing such a critical part is damaged, every ounce of power that the bike makes travels through this part on its way to the transmission. You'll be fine until you aren't.

C'mon man, everyone's doin' it...