Reddit mentions: The best range parts

Hey!

So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.

I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.

My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.

I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.

Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?

Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?

Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?

How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?

I have not used one but if it's a heavyier cast iron wok, it would take longer to heat up and cool down and would probably be hard to move around. That being said, for larger portions it may work well. I think as long as it's a thinner cast iron it may be fine. Thin carbon steel woks aren't great I will give you that, you want a thicker one.

This is the wok I use (I think, I have had it for a while but it looks the same) and I like it but you really need a wok ring for it to be stable, I prefer a big heavy one and I take the whole grate AND diffuser off my propane stove (once it's safely lit) and use it like a chinese 'torch' stove - it DEFINITELY gets hot enough. I've never burned my house down yet.

edit:spelling

The efficiency is about 75%, or about 10% less than induction, both are far more efficient than gas. The technology hasn't changed but replacing the elements with newer ones helps if the older ones are wearing out. Gas is way cheaper in much of the US, and can more easily be made to hit higher BTUs. So when combined with greater control, it is more popular for 'serious' chefs.

Not only that, but there is increased liability. Part Dc47-00019A can easily be bought and shipped in a day or two. This is the fastest selling element on our truck. We sell 2 of these for every 1 other element acrossed all manufactures. Honestly, this guy sounds like a hack, just trying to save 10 cents on a part with $10 of time.
https://www.amazon.com/Direct-Buy-Supply-HEATING-ELEMENT/dp/B01N9463DW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483750894&sr=8-6&keywords=Dc47-00019A

Little-known ProTip, from a former employee of... the company that made that oven:

Sugar, when heated, can caramelize. Glass (including the ceramic glass used in your cooktop) is porous.

If you spill sugar (or something that has sugar in it) onto a hot ceramic glass cooktop, the brown liquid gunk can work its way down into the pores of the glass, and by the time the cooktop has cooled, it can actually be physically impossible to remove without damaging the glass.

The solution is simple, but time-sensitive. You have to clean the mess before it cools down to room temperature. But you also don't want to burn yourself. So wait until the burner has cooled down a bit, then wipe it clean using a damp rag & mild soap or detergent, + possibly a scraper as well.

They also sell stuff that makes the glass non-porous (kinda like Rain-X for cooktops)... it works, but at > $1/oz., it's a little pricey IMO.

Are you comfortable with and capable of working with gas lines? If not, call a plumber or the gas company and let them deal with it. Typically, the gas company will be cheaper than a plumber, but not all gas companies will service in home lines/appliances. Some will provide materials, others will require you to do so. At the very least, I would get a quote or two. Sometimes it's cheaper and easier to let someone else take the liability. If you decide to DIY, head to a big box retailer and get one of these or these. You'll need that at a minimum. If you can remove the gas line from the flare fitting attached to the valve, you should be able to re-use it. The flare fittings themselves are fine to re-use, it's the flexible gas line that you don't want to re-use. If you can't or prefer not to re-use the flare fitting, I would also get a new gas valve as well as the threads on the existing one are likely damaged. The pipe should be 1/2" NPT. Make sure you can turn off the gas either at the meter, or somewhere upstream of the stove before you attempt to remove/replace the valve. You will need either some thread sealant or Teflon tape (not both). Only seal the threads on the NPT to NPT connections.

Not bad, that one can also control heating/cooling (trigger a fan if over a certain temperature.

For just monitoring, this looks pretty nice. Mount a few in a panel and label where the probe goes or something.

you don't - just buy a new heating element at the hardware store for $15. It's a standard part, should fit most electric stove tops.


something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-Surface-Element-9761345-8053268/dp/B002ZNNE12/ref=zg_bs_2232395011_2

I would recommend looking into getting a Canning Burner. It has more rings so it gives off more Heat. This helps getting the wok to a good temperature.

If I remember correctly it is 22V. And sorry to say I don't have link for the socet/fuse as I just picked it up from a local electronics store. But this one is quite close to mine. A bit more "Chinease" but anyway hope it helps. https://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00F4MFMXE

oooh sneaky kitty! :)

Hey, you might want to move where you keep her treats. I see you have an electric range and the elements retain heat for awhile. I've burnt myself on them. Puss might accidentally step on them and burn her feet. Even though she's probably smarter than me.

When I lived in a place with an electric range I got [these] (http://smile.amazon.com/Reston-Lloyd-Electric-Burner-Covers/dp/B00185YDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421949076&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+range+covers&pebp=1421949083948&peasin=B00185YDB8) for extra safety.

This is 250 I think but maybe that would work? https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Appliance-Accessories-3-Wire-Closed-Eyelet/dp/B001DICWSG free prime shipping by Tuesday if you ordered fast

So for 240V it's two 120V lines in parallel. A dryer outlet should be 240V 30A with two 120V lines (red and black), a neutral (white), and a ground (green). The Foundrywired for 240V with the correct fuses, as seen in the manual will be two 120V lines and a ground. My guess is you'd need something like this with a male adapter end like this on your Foundry.

If you can get the correct ends you could make all these yourself relatively easily. However, I'd only say to do that if you're comfortable working with electrical components yourself. Also I'm not an electrician, but I did wire up my DIY brewery and have converted a table saw from 120V to 240V so I do have a bit of experience with it.

Replacement electric burners are pretty cheap. But they should be maintained by the facility, right?

Just snap out-snap in. Any coil will work as long as it has the same number of rings. But I got This one works like a charm. You can get a set of all 4 but since I rent I wasn't going to waste the money

I wonder if these would work?

Silicone Gap Cover, (2 PACK) Silicone Gap Stopper Kitchen Stove Counter Gap Covers - 21" Flexible Stove Space Fillers, Food Grade,Semi Clear https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JMZTF9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.-PiDb79084F3

Are you sure about that part number? My old control set isn't push-to-turn and some listings say that part number 5303935086 is.

Is there a non-push-to-turn option?

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5303935086-Surface-Switch-Range/dp/B005B9EJ5C

Find the model number for your range and look up the parts online. I have a Kenmore made by Fridgidaire and have had to replace the bottom element before. It’s easy (2 screws) and the parts are cheap. This is the style I have: https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316075103-Oven-Bake-Element/dp/B0050KKS5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=oven+element&qid=1565898998&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Assuming you have room for it behind your range there is an adapter you can buy to make it easy on yourself.

https://www.amazon.ca/Canada-Wire-Range-Power-Adapter/dp/B01M6ZLQXC

My oven has one knob; it goes up to 550 and then after that says "broiler"

so does yours have 2 knobs or switches?

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PRODUCTS-CPR407-Black-Oven-Knob/dp/B000BQM1YQ

I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them

You mean like this?

here you go OP https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316442301-Element-for-Range/dp/B005B9CUD0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1493347362&sr=8-10&keywords=electric+burner+for+electric+stove

Yeah burner covers are so cheap.

Reston Lloyd Electric Stove Burner Covers, Set of 4, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00185YDB8/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_iqpIDbJBZZR8T

This seems like a terrible idea to get rid of the stove, no way would I ever even consider a house like that because who knows what other crazy stuff the seller did.