5. The actually container that the bag sits on
   
   
6. How everything comes together. How everything is packed together. Basically, do you keep all your food in a two compartment tray, or a one compartment tray? (Two compartment) http://i.imgur.com/v52lNSw.jpg from trader joes. I have a feeling that two compartment trays hold temp better than 1 compartment trays. It goes back to surface area exposed (At the top where the thin plastic is), basically that cubic-shaped looking sauce area is basically an ice pack in of itself. Also for steaming rice too
   
   ----------------------------
   

   Contracting/Construction industry/ Packaging
   

   
   

• Packaging things together in a well insulated way is not that dissimilar to how the construction industry works for homes. How do they build insulation in homes such that houses don't get overally hot down south, while at the same time insulating it such that houses stay warm in the winter up north? Your solution to box packaging / #6 (How it all comes together) should come from this resource.
  
  -----------------
  

  Cooking Curve
  

  
  

• http://i.imgur.com/j03De5W.png. Fryers have a cooking curve. I have no idea why this is relevant. But I believe its because sometimes, in a-la-carte style cooking (Catering and buffet), items are only cooked to 70%, and the the last 30% cooking is usually blasted in a microwave. If I recall correctly, Applebees was notorious as hell for doing this, until they changed CEO's recently, because I'm blasted with "Wood-Fired Grill ads" on my TV commercials at home, and I don't even use search queries in google for applebees for targeted ad (Definitely a blanket ad). According to how much I know about the mobile ad industry, its usually not targeted to any specific platform, like my TV watching commercial.
  
  
• Applebees even said they no longer "microwave" their food on a TV commercial. so that confirms my supsicions here. And reddit notoriously , including people who've worked there, said Applebees was shit. Lots of places buy food and just microwave nuke it. Especially, panerabread soups. That 100% is pre-bought stuff, due to quality control
  
  
• My point here is that I am not sure if microwave goods are always fully cooked, sometimes they are 70% cooked a-la-carte style. Doesn't have anything to do with insulation, its more so in food quality
  
  ----------------
  

  Engineering
  

  
  

• Well now that I covered all of that, now its time to do actually engineering. I'll admit i'm a bit rusty as hell here, but bear with me
  
  
• Surface area. We know that the more surface area on a package, the faster it thaws out (consequently it gets to freezing temp faster in a blastchiller). Time to whip out some generic formulas from thermodynamics...it needs to be the simplest formula though. Nothing fancy. We're not talking about pressure changes though, or
  
  
• http://physicsforidiots.com/physics/thermodynamics/. Ah this is a good resource for anyone to understand. Here's the formula Q=MC(deltaT) http://i.imgur.com/qmurRgB.png. This is probably the most essential formula to understanding what insulators do. Basically....your food has mass associated with it M, C is dependent upon whether you use liquidy contents / 2 seperate compartments in container, DeltaT is change in temperature of your food over time. Q is energy from outside ambient temp coming into your box. I might expand here later, but this is important to understand
  
  
• Everything has a Q=MC(Delta T) associated with it, for different areas in your container that have different temperatures in it. This only assumes everything is well packed and and no leakages.
  
  
• Here's my point here : http://i.imgur.com/Q18PmUZ.png. Basically, there's 4 equilibrium points between each point here, T1 , T2, T3, T4. You can do a basic thermodynamic equation comparing T1, T2, then T2, to T3, than T3 to T4, etc. For different conditions, like ambient temperature outside( T4), for what type of food your packing(t1), to the packaging itself (T2, T3)
  
  
  --------------
  

  Manufacturing of boxes
  

  
  

• I do know how boxes are manufacturered.... to some degree. I've seen them in person before. . Its important to understand this because this gives insight on how economically feasible some products are, and how expensive box prices will be (Because box prices you see online are dependent upon how cheaply they can be produced..
  
  
• Box packaging/folding, how it works, is not that dissimilar to origami /craft boxes. http://i.imgur.com/PluMwm3.png. Specifically, box making looks like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i3riKvCYkM.
  
  ----------------
  

  Insulation Aluminum material
  

  
  ------------
  

  types of insulation material (High R or C value)
  

  
  

• Too lazy, just used amazon "http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=insulation+material". Cars. You are using car automotive packaging material. http://i.imgur.com/IhAKGPj.png. I thought it looked familiar, its basically what people put on their car to prevent sunlight from making the car really hot (greenhouse effect/ radiation from sun). SIDE NOTE: 3M would be the leader here for finding out the best products. Amazons better for determining the most feasible solution in one search query though.
  
  
• It comes in rolls. Rolls. Because its easy to pack. That much is obvious. Its not that far off from how yoga pads are packed. http://www.amazon.com/BalanceFrom-Purpose-Anti-Tear-Exercise-Carrying/dp/B00JW3CTTQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464102720&sr=8-4&keywords=yoga+pad
  
  
• Not only that I've seen this stuff used in duct work. In construction industry. For A/C ventilation. http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Electric-Dryers/dp/B017I06P8U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1464102881&sr=8-8&keywords=duct+vent. Its aluminum exterior, with a filler interior (some form of silicone) http://i.imgur.com/R8aLcSY.png. Periodic table of element reference: http://i.imgur.com/YMReh7s.png. Silicon is used for many things, from caulking for bathtub, to bike grease lube, to kitchen materials. Because its economical. Makes sense. Depends on manufacturing method though.
  
  -----------
  

  Where else aluminum insulation is used:
  

  
  

• Roofing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WYfpwskn1M. And A/C vents. And cars. and HVAC industry
  
  -------------
  

  Aluminum properties
  

  
  

• Found a datasheet. http://www.macbertan.lk/category/products/mcfoil-ultra/. Matweb was a bit complicated, so i googled it instead under "google images" using search term "aluminum bubble foil thermal properties" until i found a chart. R value is 12.3 http://i.imgur.com/opoQsTZ.png. Its probably around there somewhere.
  
  
• Refrigerants, spray in urethane foam is 6.0 for comparison. http://i.imgur.com/RaanWcQ.png. Air ambient is 1.0 http://i.imgur.com/HmwRNnN.png. Regular cardboard is something like 3.0 or less
  
  ----
  

  manufacturing of cheap, insulation material
  

  
  

• Might as well found out why said material is so cheap, according to amazon, and your competition's packing.
  
  
• Alibaba.com would be the best resource here to see how its made since it probably comes from china. Also, "Google Video" searches. https://vimeo.com/99022623. Found a better video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5PDoD8b86U
  
  
• Buying bulk material, skipping uline. If you buy lots of stuff, sometimes its better to order direct. Here's how I'd go about purchasing it too. http://i.imgur.com/otkDcQK.jpg. >Also, looking at one of the landing pages. http://i.imgur.com/a5q4jkY.png
  
  

•What did you wish you knew or learned before owning your first house? Honestly, my husband is awesome and takes care of all these little things around the house. 1. Houses have filters for the air system if they have a central air unit. And if you're like me, change that thing often! I have allergies. 2. Depending on where you live, make sure there's nothing you need to do before winter comes. We live in the great white north so we make sure our spicket outside is set for winter. We accidentally left our hose out all winter last winter. 3. Get a Lint Brush for your dryer. When you notice your clothes aren't getting dry like they used to anymore, check for a huge lint monster! 4. If you have a sump pump (ours is under our stairs) check it regularly to make sure it's working. Especially before your rainy/wet seasons. Better to be proactive about maintenance then have a wet basement. That's our learning so far :)

•What the hell do I do for the next 30 days? How do I not poop myself out of stress and excitement? I can't help you there! Haha!

•What is the best way to pack? To purge stuff I don’t need? Do I just Kondo it all? Honestly yes, I would say purging while you pack will help when you get to the new house and start putting stuff away. You will always accumulate more things haha. Also in terms of packing label all your boxes with which room they go in, that way when you're hot and sweaty moving you don't have to think about where they go. And label them if they're fragile, so when your packing the truck you know which boxes shouldn't be on the bottom etc. Use garbage bags for clothes! Just grab a bunch on hangers and wrap a garbage bag around them instead of taking them off the hangers just to put them back on.

•How is the best way to move when you don’t have friends and don’t want to hurt yourself lol? Without hiring movers, then I would say that you want to get a big truck to fit everything at once so you only have to make one trip. If it's hot, drink lots of water, take lots of breaks.

•When should I reserve the Uhaul? The sooner the better to ensure you'll get the size truck you want.

•I know I need to set up water and trash and transfer utilities. When do I do that? Do it now. Call the companies, they're prepared and will just ask you when you close on your house, usually they will take care of the rest then.

•I’m gonna probably hire cleaners for our apartment just because I’m gonna be so busy. Any other apartment move-out tips? Nope! Did you document when you moved into your apartment for any damages that were already there? If so, I would find that just in case the apartment wants to blame you for that stuff.

•Any YouTube or book resources for home owning for idiots? Honestly we just youtube stuff as we go haha.

•Things we totally need that we didn’t know we’d need. The lint brush I told you before. Also 9V batteries because you'll have a ton of smoke detectors if it's a newer construction. If it isn't maybe look to see how many are in your house, do you think there's enough smoke detectors?

•How do I live with my very old MIL and not go insane? Oh no no, I can't help you there. My MIL would drive me bonkers!

•we have to landscape our own backyard. Where do I find a good person to pour my very simple concrete slab? I want a clover lawn because I’m allergic to grass. Is that stupid? I can't help you with the concrete, I have my husband find our people, but the clover lawn sounds amazing! I am also allergic to grass haha!

​

GOOD LUCK! YOU CAN DO IT!

Tools required:

• 10 mm wrench
  
• 13 mm wrench
  
• Phillips head screwdriver
  
• 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit
  
  Parts required:
  
  
• Cheap RO/DI
  
  
• Saddle Valve
  
  
• Push Connect Shutoff Valve
  
  
• Total cost: ~$80
  
  Process:
  
  
• Follow the instructions for installing your saddle valve to a cold water pipe, with enough 1/4" vinyl tubing connected to reach through your wall. It's most convenient to do this directly behind your bathroom faucet, if you have access to those pipes. You will be using your phillips head screwdriver, 10 mm wrench, and 13 mm wrench for this process. Make sure all your nuts are secure, but don't hulk out on them - remember that brass is not vibranium - you CAN strip it if you go too hard. Leak test, and flow test at this point. Once you're free of leaks, and have good flow to your vinyl tubing, completely close the needle valve on your saddle valve to cut off flow.
  
  
• Drill a hole through your drywall above your sink. Pass your 1/4" vinyl through the wall. Push connect your shutoff valve on this side, and connect another length of vinyl tubing to the other side of the shutoff. Close the shutoff valve. Go back and completely open the needle valve on your saddle valve, to allow flow to the the vinyl tubing. Open your shutoff valve to again ensure that you're getting pressurized flow through your vinyl tubing.
  
  
• Drill 3 holes in the side of your undersink cabinet, preferably right next to your bathtub (as shown in the last video of the OP gallery). 1 hole will route your supply line (from the shutoff valve) into the cabinet, to supply tap water to your filter. The other two, respectively, will run your waste and product lines out of the cabinet.
  
  
• Run your lines and dry fit the mount of your filter inside the cabinet. Using the 2 phillips screws provided with the filter assembly, mount the 2 brackets connected to the RO membrane housing, directly to the wall of your cabinet.
  
  
• Total installation time: ~30 minutes
  
  Now you have a clean water supply in a hassle-free implementation. When you're ready to make water, just snake your waste line securely down the bathtub drain, open the shutoff valve, give the filter a few minutes to push water through the system and flush, and make water. Easy breezy beautiful cover girl.
  
  If you don't have access to be able to do this in your bathroom, the same setup can be performed anywhere you have access to a fresh cold water pipe and a drain line.

Don't bother with the smart pot brand pots, just find a good fabric grow bag with handles. I use these. I'd also get a different pH tester, or go the analog route with some of this, it's kind of annoying to do but it works. Blue Lab makes very reliable meters, they are worth the extra money if you decide to buy a meter. A lot of problems are caused by improper pH, you definitely don't want to cheap out on a meter (unless you wanna buy new ones all the time). Analog is just as reliable although you can't be as precise with your measurements as you can with digital. This hasn't been a problem for me.

To address some of your questions: Your plan for ventilation sounds fine, you may want to get a window dryer vent to assure the air doesn't flow back through your window. This also makes it a little more stealth.

Nutrients won't be necessary for about 30 days in FFOF because it's a hot soil. In fact if you feed them anything you'll probably burn them. Some seedlings will burn in FFOF regardless of whether or not you feed them nutes, some people recommend their happy frog soil for starting seedlings, then transplanting into FFOF after the roots have developed. Usually you'll be fine in FFOF so I wouldn't worry as long as you're feeding plain water for the first 25-30 days.

You should also get a hygrometer to monitor temps and humidity, it's very helpful in diagnosing potential problems. Other than that and some liquid nutes you've got what you need on that list.

Also, you should definitely start in a smaller container than 5 gal for your seedlings. Get some of those red solo cups, oversized if you can find them. You can establish the plant in those and transplant them right into the 5 gallon.

Hey!

So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.

I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.

My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.

I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.

Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?

Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?

Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?

How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?

The parts list I HAD been using:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/463222/Frigidaire-Frt18s6a.html#product-FRT18S6A

(Illustrations on page 10, part numbers on page 11)

gave this part number - 5304433579 - which looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5304433579-Refrigerator-Manufacturer-White-Westinghouse/dp/B004XL2VXG

(and cost a lot more a couple of days ago !?!?!?)

It wasn't until I took the old one out that I realized they can't be the same. The parts list mentioned IS for my fridge and has been right otherwise. No idea...

A different parts list, also for my fridge, gives something closer (starter - ptc): 218721112 OR 218721113 depending on model. Neither match what I have.

241707702 is the part I have. I understand what a relay is but don't know what a starter PTC is or does. I will google and read.

There are 3 tabs holding it closed. I did try for a little while to get it open but it's the kind of tab that make assembly easy, not the kind that make disassembly easy. The cover does move though, it can be done.

The part is light weight but not so light weight that I can say with certainty that nothing inside is potted.

I am in the US (MA).

I had run across that link a couple of days ago, I remember the packing peanut in the fan. I will really read it thoroughly but have no interest in trying the hack, the food storage situation is under control.

Can't express how much I appreciate you taking the time to help.

I have not used one but if it's a heavyier cast iron wok, it would take longer to heat up and cool down and would probably be hard to move around. That being said, for larger portions it may work well. I think as long as it's a thinner cast iron it may be fine. Thin carbon steel woks aren't great I will give you that, you want a thicker one.

This is the wok I use (I think, I have had it for a while but it looks the same) and I like it but you really need a wok ring for it to be stable, I prefer a big heavy one and I take the whole grate AND diffuser off my propane stove (once it's safely lit) and use it like a chinese 'torch' stove - it DEFINITELY gets hot enough. I've never burned my house down yet.

edit:spelling

You don't give a $ of how much you're willing to spend, but the #1 thing you can do to help improve the quality of your brewing is control your fermentation temperature. Even if you stick to kits and extracts, your beer will be better if you can control fermentation temperature. I would go out and look for a chest freezer or even a large-ish dorm fridge and outfit it with an external temperature controller. I use this, but there are lots of options out there. Having 2 stage so you can cool and heat is definitely a bonus.

I don't really see a point in moving to all grain or kegs if you can't ensure you're properly fermenting your beer. Get the temperature under control, then worry about the other stuff.

Exactly my plan. Found a good and quite fan designed for AV racks and a special vent designed for windows:

The vent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-39QCb1FACNR0

The fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c0aRCb9HB2TGH

And a standard dryer hose and a custom “box” to fit to the back of the rack and have a 4” hole in the top (to benefit hot air rising) that goes to the fan then the vent.

If it’s super short, yeah you could do it like that... shove the vac tube into the dryer tube. But if it’s longer then that, you’ll need something like this:

Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q3SyCbBE3N5DX

Turn your dryer on with the heat off, attach to power drill, and feed that in from the outside of the house.

Don’t clean flexible tube this way, only the “hard” sheet metal tube. You’ll be surprised at how much comes out.

This is also a common service provided by handymen.

If the 5100 is too pricey, I would still recommend the 5301 before you go down to the 4000k or fantastic fan. Fantastic fans are prone to breaking and having this rain guard is a life saver. You don’t want water dripping through in the middle of the night whilst your asleep.

Plus, if there’s anything to not be stingy about, it’s your ventilation.

On Amazon i saw the 5100 was $210 and the 4000k was $130. You just gotta drop the extra $80 and know that it’ll be worth it completely.

Here’s that other one
MAXXFAN DLX 5301K WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ikr1AbPA3KDDC

It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.

• ice line kit, attach to your water line under sink
  
  
• Solenoid Valve 1/4", splice 12v plug and into a timer or wifi timer.
  
  
• Attach water line inlet to tank
  
  
• Drill hole in tank or use overflow box for water outlet. I made my own
  
  
• Optional, get water filter if your water is chlorinated, check valve for safety, 1 gph drip emitter for better flow control.
  
  I'll make a full guide later

Ferrets do well in groups, and a friend is recommended if possible. We had a deaf girl, and she was the most adorable of the bunch, never had many health problems, and any she had could more likely be attributed to being the runt of the litter.

Is your vet a general vet or an exotic vet? Some veterinarians don't have much experience with ferrets.

What kind of temperature is she usually in, how old is she, and does she drag herself when walking? Energy levels could be a contributor.

Ferrets each like different things, and there are many things to try, but if she likes the tunnel, I suggest looking at clear plastic dryer tubing, Like this one

Not sure where your exhaust vent is on your dryer, but check something like this out, it may be slightly better than your current situation.

This one is a bit pricier, don't know how well it works, but should work well.
Filtered indoor vent

A lot are cheaper and use water... I'm assuming yours may do this already. Cheap ones tend to spew water out.

Here's a better one with steel filter and water.

$400 worth of beer.

All kidding aside, it looks like you could use some 6.5 glass carboys and a bigger brew kettle. Maybe get a temperature controller to make a nice fermentation chamber?

Here's a nice temperature controller.

Here's a decent two ported 9 gallon stainless kettle.

Here's a cheap propane burner that you'll want for all grain and full boils.

As said its very easy to do. If you leave a deposit you are welcome to use my dryer cleaning tool. Just hook it up to a drill and it will clean it out well.

For those wondering what I and others are talking about its this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

About eight years ago, I mailed four heavy spanner wrenches that all fit perfectly into a single SMALL flat rate box. Went from Florida to Washington State for like $5 or $6 at the time.

It looks like this is the light in question. They make a "yellow" light for the same hood, which seems like it would be more to your liking. Check it out. From the picture, it looks like you can just remove the set screws and swap the new lights in with the quick connect cables.

As always, even with low voltage, I recommend turning the power off at the breaker before you touch anything.

you can get a window duct and duct it out that way... that way you aren't recycling humidity into the room.

Also, clean your room. A clean space is a clean mind.

I've heard about dryer tubes from others so I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFTEO/ and it was half the price of a Marshall's thru-way. Unfortunately, it was also half the distance of the thru-way and the plastic was very thin. I recently had to throw it out because it was torn in places and the wire at the end was poking through and scratching them. Meanwhile, the stupid Marshalls tube has lasted years so I think it's worth the extra $.

Cereal boxes you say? Ok, I'm inspired. Sometimes I tape together beer boxes to make little forts for them to play it, but I'm thinking if I cut up the cereal boxes and roll them, tape then into a tube shape, they'd love it! I could even attach them to the beer box....

Am I a crazy ferret lady? Yes.

If you are only using butane torches and a pickle pot, you may be able to get away without one, but it is healthier if you use ventilation. You are going to inevitably burn oils and other contaminants and that should not be going into your lungs.

A 200 CFM, 4" duct fan can be used with a dryer hose and a 'vent periscope' box to make a permanent in-window vent system. Add some duct insulation and it won't bleed heat. The basic setup is about $60.


https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/

My periscope box installed: https://imgur.com/MIJTJDY

My vent setup: https://imgur.com/tNHUJ8X

I'm using Acetylene, and that gives off soot, so I *need* a vent system. I will probably add a stove hood from the remodelling surplus store just for better smoke collection.

I've already got a new 4-prong cord but I need to replace the tab on the right there first. Would a butt splice electrical taped on be alright?


Edit: Bought everything I need, thanks everyone for the input.

I use a Sploofy so it probably wouldn’t get covered in tar fast, especially if I use some sort of pre filter(perhaps a premium one if it is offered). I need the carbon filter to clean the air not just blow it away and leave a lingering oder behind. Any advice for relatively cheap, powerful and quiet in-line fan(6in. and high cfm)? I am Considering making a smoke room out of a thick and relatively large grow tent wit a carbon filter and in-line fan ducting out to a 6 in. Dryer Duct Window Mount with some sort of insulation, possibly poster board. Will also look into getting ona gel to put near the start and finish of the ducting (outside the tent, to account for leakage). I know it’s overkill, but I would like the remainder of the room to not have any odor.

FYI:Links of parts etc.

Cooler: http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/NewAir-Appliances-Thermoelectric-Wine-Cooler/7411549/product.html?searchidx=3

Temp Controller: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057APR3I/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heater is something like this bought locally:
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752652&OVKEY=reptile+heating+pad&OVMTC=Broad&adpos=1s1&gclid=CMOB7L-rv7oCFc2h4AodMxcADg&url_id=155491832&creative=21203575252&device=c&f=PAD%2FpsNotAvailInUS%2FNo

Shelves: whttp://www.wineadors.com - Expect 6 weeks delivery

Heartfelt Beads: http://www.heartfeltindustries.com/

I have this thing. It's nice http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Lint-Trap-Filter-LTF0001/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1452290224&sr=8-14&keywords=lint+catcher keeps the basement nice and warm, and where I live its fairly dry in the winter, so it adds a bit of moisture to the air.

Because flex isn't going to seal well on the exterior wall. Galvanized sheet metal tube will allow you to seal the hole better.

The other trick is to have the exterior dryer vent pipe behind the washer. This makes installation of the dryer vent pipe not "blind".

Use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=adjustable+dryer+vent&qid=1572968068&s=hunting-fishing&sr=8-1

Basically:

• Install dryer and connect pipes, tape with UL listed aluminum tape.
  
• Pipe is routed from behind dryer to behind the washer.
  
• Install washer, since the hoses are flexible and it's easier to slide it back as you don't need to align anything.
  
  I'd get reports on service calls for dryers. The #1 issue for "won't dry well" is that the pipe was too short. The fix was to restrict the flapper on the outside by of the house by ~50% with a screw.

You can easily do it yourself with something like this. I am sure you can find a longer one if necessary or buy 2 and use the rods to make it longer.

It really is a simple DIY project.

This maxxfan is under $185.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-0005301K-MAXXFAN-5301K-WHITE/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511334692&sr=8-6&keywords=maxxfan

I'd question how well a simple little $30 fan will work. The Maxxfan is a known quantity. If you decide to go with what /u/biased_user_agent suggested I would actually go out the side instead of the roof. I think that may be easier to find an appropriate rain cover to prevent water ingress.

Surprised nobody has recommended this.. I just did this and it's much easier than you think it is. Just wiggle the whole thing, the tray underneath and all, get to the vent and use this thing Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_01SBCb7GJMR72

Even better you should get Flood Safe hoses

Also

• Get yourself one of these and clean the dryer vent. Good to do about once a year too.

Are you referring to a spanner wrench as well?

Would you recommend this one?

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Whirlpool-Washing-Machine-Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?modelNumber=WTW5510VQ0&ss=a11b5i321d705910&mr=1


Or this one

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-TB123A-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B00A8O0E72/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493733223&sr=8-3&keywords=spanner+wrench

Your dishwasher should have caps just inside the door on the side that pop off to reveal holes. You can screw in to the cabinets on either side here and not need to screw in the top at all.

EDIT ignore, it helps if I read the whole post.

I had luck with these adhesive mounting things from Amazon. Let me find the link.

Granite Grabbers Dishwasher Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UQ107O/

Also invest in something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510832967&sr=8-1&keywords=duct+cleaner It makes it much easier to keep your vent line cleaned out on the regular.

Water should flow out of hole pretty quickly,you could have debris in drain. Assuming fresh food section isn't freezing, consider adding heater extension to keep drain from freezing. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-819043-Heat-Probe/dp/B00DM8JPZS

Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.

I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!

600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50

6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75

25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10

48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99

FFOF - $18.99

General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95

CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23

Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65

Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19

Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84

PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95

Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59

LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81

Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.

Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><

i noticed in your first photo that little piece of copper wire. my guess is that you have that wrapped around your defrost heater.

you can try putting one of these defrost probes in there instead. I always run some 1/4" tubing all the way through also and make sure it pokes out both sides, just to clear our any extra gunk.

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

Wow, did I spend an extra $50 to get my temps in Fahrenheit? I got one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Products-TC-9102D-HV-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0057APR3I

One could set another bucket at a higher level than the FIgJam cooler. Then either use a valve to refill or an aquarium float in the FJ to maintain level. But a FJ cooler will run for4-6hrs. So refilling it is not that big of deal really. (Mine is used for grey water evap so I had a second bucket a valve setup.)

100ah deep cycle batts are the way to go. Don't cheap out and not go deep cycle. (FigJam himself uses a Wal-Mart $80 Deepcycle) Solar panels for other than trickle charge to the batt are labor intensive to keep clean and lose efficiency for the same. So they are good to keep the batt topped off, but not to rely in it running you gear. Unless you are really into solar and know what to expect. It's not all plug and play.

To duct into the tent depends on if you want to cut a hole or not. Some use a dryer duct wall vent. Its glued or screwed the the tent wall. Might have to make a ring to sandwich the material. I would use semi rigid duct as it is stiffer and restricts air flow less then the spring type ducts. Wrap with a towel or foil bubble wrap for some insulation. 5" with one end made to a square fits tightly around the PC fan frame. Problem is 5" is an oddball size for dryer vet fittings that are 4 or 6". Go 6" if you need to chose. less air restriction that way.

If you don't want to cut a hole than you need to stick through the door and seal it up the best you can with a towel or similar.

Be sure to have a vent in the ten to allow air to escape... Swamp are air in - air out cooling.

Here is a link for pumps, fans, media, etc.

If anyone has questions, let me know. I've built a number of them in various forms. Storage bin cooler last year. Trash can version this year. But I use them for grey water evap. A lot less messy then a evap pond or air driven evap.

WE used these on our granite countertops and they have been perfect for 5 years and running: https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O

The braided hoses are good. I would recommend getting ones that have auto shutoff valves if there is a drastic change in the pressure differential.

Auto shurofd hoses

Get this to clean the vent and this to clean the lint trap. Cheap insurance.

Clear duct

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DZFTEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440969&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clear+dryer+tube&dpPl=1&dpID=41AoDi00moL&ref=plSrch

Or ferret tube ($3 more)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DJL0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440876&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+tube+ferret&dpPl=1&dpID=51UTXj57prL&ref=plSrch

Amazon Vent


This is what I use. Easy to install and hook a hose.

This is about as good as you can do. Apparently it's called a periscope. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=thin+dryer+vent&qid=1574717108&sr=8-7

How about a window dryer vent setup? The vent has a flap so only air out as long as flow is good. https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

They make a terminal block kit that comes with new wires to splice into the harness. And of course you have to buy a new cord. If you are not comfortable splicing wires then you should call someone but it is an easy repair. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS

I do air balance for a living and certify fume hoods, operating rooms, etc so Im very familiar with fans and duct systems. Personally, I would go with something like: http://www.amazon.com/inch-400-CFM-Ventilation-Exhaust/dp/B008HVBSJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419390491&sr=8-3&keywords=300+cfm+exhaust+fan

then do a small section of 6" hard duct off the fan inlet and then add this:
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-AF625ULPZW-Aluminum-6-Inches/dp/B001AHASV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419390690&sr=8-2&keywords=6%22+vent+duct

onto the end and down near whatever youre welding. I would also add a small tapered metal plenum on the end of the flex duct so that if some spatter hits it, it wont effect it.

Sounds like you already tried a short metal connector but said it wouldn't fit. I'm surprised that you couldn't get the ruffled side in enough give you something to grip. Sometimes you need to get some pliers and manipulate the edges to get it to cram in.

But anyway, Maybe try something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Dryer-Dock-Vent-Tubes-White/dp/B0028BAAWW

Even if the white plastic part doesn't fit in your hole you could saw that part off with a coping saw or something so it sits flush against the hole and attach it stud/drywall around the hole.

Looks good! We build a GIANT fermentation fridge and were going to put one of those together, but ended up just going with a Johnson temp control unit.

I'll have to post pics of our fridge build.

Amazon has them. Some reviews say the replacement is brighter, but who knows

White LED light for XtremeAir Range Hoods, 2w 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AXDFYLO

Check the vent. It's free. I had a clog near where the vent exited my house in the attic because someone put a 8in cylinder of chicken wire in the duct. I should have checked there first, but I only spent ~$20 on this when I was debugging.

new dishwashers come with metal clips and mount to the sides of the adjacent cabinets. for old top mounting ones use granite grabbers.

A dishwasher supply line is 3/4" hose bibb to 3/8" compression. They are usually a few feet long. Make sure the Y splitter has deep enough threads to compress the neck of the hose bibb into the collar.

Reduce 3/8" comp to 1/4" comp, then run 1/4" flexible tubing to your fridge. A kit at the big box near me is about $15 for the 25' poly tubing kit with 1/4 and 3/8 adapters. A 1/4 coupling can be used to connect two lengths of tubing if you are forced to do so.

HB to comp
3/8 to 1/4
ice maker kit

The kit comes with a saddle valve, but you don't need it.

Does the gas dryer get the clothes hot?

If so, the venting could be the issue. Most places Ive lived, The vent line ran through the house or garage to the front or rear of the house. Ive paid $50-$70 to have someone come out and clean out the dryer vent lines and its made a HUGE difference when they get clogged.

This is not needed if the outside vent is directly behind the dryer but you should still pull the dryer out and check there are no clogs in the line.

You can buy a DIY kit for about $20 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Dryer-Duct-Cleaning-Extends/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9DHKNVPT742EK4GPP46A

The dryer is likely fine.

Don't be surprised if your washer has some leaks. Our home actually has two washer/dryer hookups, we have a washer/dryer in both, but one pair is very seldom used. If the washer sits for more than a month or so unused, the bottom seal dries out and it drips/splatters water. I replaced the seal a few times; we finally decided to just stop using it altogether. The most expensive part of the repair was buying a special wrench to remove the tub nut. You'll probably need one too - research and make sure you get the right one for your model.

I would hook it up in your driveway first, plug it in with an extension cord and run it through a cycle to look for leaks. Just use a cheap hose splitter with a garden hose and hookup both hot and cold sides to your garden hose.

Well this is an interesting and unexpected tangent. This is the product we are using for venting. Curious to get your feedback on it.

It's an electric dryer. It seems as thought the exhaust is just steam and lint. Am I missing something?

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tScxzbZ07FAV7

There are any number of these available, though most are 2" wide. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S

Maybe past owner tried to snake out the drain with some sort of rod system (the photo almost looks like a vent cleaner you would use for a dryer vent https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ ) and it broke?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1525715320&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaner+kit

Amazon

I have the same kind, I got it here!

Buying the kit for the first time. Thoughts on this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525707007&sr=8-4&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaner

You could try this with curtains.https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S

Each elbow counts as 5 feet. So your vent run is equal to 25 feet which is marginal. Here's another brand but same exact idea. They are even interchangeable with the LintEater Brand. https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519742734&sr=8-5&keywords=lint+eater&dpID=519%252B92SyeDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Unhook from dryer, use one of these Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

window vent

I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them

It's within a degree of actual fermenting temperature.

It's this: http://www.amazon.com/Control-Products-TC-9102D-HV-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0057APR3I/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1381251104&sr=8-12&keywords=temperature+controller

You mean like this?

Check this out: Whirlpool 4396037RP 0-to-18 Inch Vent Periscope Whirlpool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_ASoWBbQRXMZ7T

Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CkEIDb0NFGP6Y

Could that fit in the top if it slides down? Nothing unsafe about just throwing it out but if the heats on forget trying to keep it in with that window open.

The ones with the condenser take a significantly longer time to dry. And lots more parts = less long term reliability

I've used that style and it's terrible. I finally found one that I like.

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nSWDxb7BZ3ABC

The magnetic thing in the GIF would work really well.

There is actually something made specifically for this problem indoor lint trap filter

Buy a secondary lint trap:

https://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Lint-Trap-Filter-LTF0001/dp/B008RNPOIU

Ah the good-ole-duct trick.

> I'm so tempted to try and break 4.6GHz, but my apartment simply gets hot too fast if I go crazy with overclocking.

https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

I know people who do this with their main outs, forces the hot air outside, mounting can be tricky but can work well.

I struggled with this for a year after buying a house with an improperly attached dishwasher under a granite countertop. I tried the stick on Granite Grabbers (https://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabbers-Dishwasher-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032272&sr=8-1&keywords=dishwasher+attachment) but our counter surface on the bottom side was too rough and they never stuck. I ended up buying this mounting bracket (https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Dishwasher-Bracket-by-EZ/dp/B01N0GWLK7/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487032307&sr=8-2&keywords=dishwasher+mounting) and screwing in some additional wooden braces on both sides

USA

I am going to replace my current controller which has an awful user interface.

I've used two of these: Control Product Temp Controller Will purchase a 3rd when it comes time to add another freezer to my collection.

*edit: should mention it needs wiring also. Once I figured it out it was dead simple.