5. The actually container that the bag sits on
   
   
6. How everything comes together. How everything is packed together. Basically, do you keep all your food in a two compartment tray, or a one compartment tray? (Two compartment) http://i.imgur.com/v52lNSw.jpg from trader joes. I have a feeling that two compartment trays hold temp better than 1 compartment trays. It goes back to surface area exposed (At the top where the thin plastic is), basically that cubic-shaped looking sauce area is basically an ice pack in of itself. Also for steaming rice too
   
   ----------------------------
   

   Contracting/Construction industry/ Packaging
   

   
   

• Packaging things together in a well insulated way is not that dissimilar to how the construction industry works for homes. How do they build insulation in homes such that houses don't get overally hot down south, while at the same time insulating it such that houses stay warm in the winter up north? Your solution to box packaging / #6 (How it all comes together) should come from this resource.
  
  -----------------
  

  Cooking Curve
  

  
  

• http://i.imgur.com/j03De5W.png. Fryers have a cooking curve. I have no idea why this is relevant. But I believe its because sometimes, in a-la-carte style cooking (Catering and buffet), items are only cooked to 70%, and the the last 30% cooking is usually blasted in a microwave. If I recall correctly, Applebees was notorious as hell for doing this, until they changed CEO's recently, because I'm blasted with "Wood-Fired Grill ads" on my TV commercials at home, and I don't even use search queries in google for applebees for targeted ad (Definitely a blanket ad). According to how much I know about the mobile ad industry, its usually not targeted to any specific platform, like my TV watching commercial.
  
  
• Applebees even said they no longer "microwave" their food on a TV commercial. so that confirms my supsicions here. And reddit notoriously , including people who've worked there, said Applebees was shit. Lots of places buy food and just microwave nuke it. Especially, panerabread soups. That 100% is pre-bought stuff, due to quality control
  
  
• My point here is that I am not sure if microwave goods are always fully cooked, sometimes they are 70% cooked a-la-carte style. Doesn't have anything to do with insulation, its more so in food quality
  
  ----------------
  

  Engineering
  

  
  

• Well now that I covered all of that, now its time to do actually engineering. I'll admit i'm a bit rusty as hell here, but bear with me
  
  
• Surface area. We know that the more surface area on a package, the faster it thaws out (consequently it gets to freezing temp faster in a blastchiller). Time to whip out some generic formulas from thermodynamics...it needs to be the simplest formula though. Nothing fancy. We're not talking about pressure changes though, or
  
  
• http://physicsforidiots.com/physics/thermodynamics/. Ah this is a good resource for anyone to understand. Here's the formula Q=MC(deltaT) http://i.imgur.com/qmurRgB.png. This is probably the most essential formula to understanding what insulators do. Basically....your food has mass associated with it M, C is dependent upon whether you use liquidy contents / 2 seperate compartments in container, DeltaT is change in temperature of your food over time. Q is energy from outside ambient temp coming into your box. I might expand here later, but this is important to understand
  
  
• Everything has a Q=MC(Delta T) associated with it, for different areas in your container that have different temperatures in it. This only assumes everything is well packed and and no leakages.
  
  
• Here's my point here : http://i.imgur.com/Q18PmUZ.png. Basically, there's 4 equilibrium points between each point here, T1 , T2, T3, T4. You can do a basic thermodynamic equation comparing T1, T2, then T2, to T3, than T3 to T4, etc. For different conditions, like ambient temperature outside( T4), for what type of food your packing(t1), to the packaging itself (T2, T3)
  
  
  --------------
  

  Manufacturing of boxes
  

  
  

• I do know how boxes are manufacturered.... to some degree. I've seen them in person before. . Its important to understand this because this gives insight on how economically feasible some products are, and how expensive box prices will be (Because box prices you see online are dependent upon how cheaply they can be produced..
  
  
• Box packaging/folding, how it works, is not that dissimilar to origami /craft boxes. http://i.imgur.com/PluMwm3.png. Specifically, box making looks like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8i3riKvCYkM.
  
  ----------------
  

  Insulation Aluminum material
  

  
  ------------
  

  types of insulation material (High R or C value)
  

  
  

• Too lazy, just used amazon "http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=insulation+material". Cars. You are using car automotive packaging material. http://i.imgur.com/IhAKGPj.png. I thought it looked familiar, its basically what people put on their car to prevent sunlight from making the car really hot (greenhouse effect/ radiation from sun). SIDE NOTE: 3M would be the leader here for finding out the best products. Amazons better for determining the most feasible solution in one search query though.
  
  
• It comes in rolls. Rolls. Because its easy to pack. That much is obvious. Its not that far off from how yoga pads are packed. http://www.amazon.com/BalanceFrom-Purpose-Anti-Tear-Exercise-Carrying/dp/B00JW3CTTQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464102720&sr=8-4&keywords=yoga+pad
  
  
• Not only that I've seen this stuff used in duct work. In construction industry. For A/C ventilation. http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Electric-Dryers/dp/B017I06P8U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1464102881&sr=8-8&keywords=duct+vent. Its aluminum exterior, with a filler interior (some form of silicone) http://i.imgur.com/R8aLcSY.png. Periodic table of element reference: http://i.imgur.com/YMReh7s.png. Silicon is used for many things, from caulking for bathtub, to bike grease lube, to kitchen materials. Because its economical. Makes sense. Depends on manufacturing method though.
  
  -----------
  

  Where else aluminum insulation is used:
  

  
  

• Roofing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WYfpwskn1M. And A/C vents. And cars. and HVAC industry
  
  -------------
  

  Aluminum properties
  

  
  

• Found a datasheet. http://www.macbertan.lk/category/products/mcfoil-ultra/. Matweb was a bit complicated, so i googled it instead under "google images" using search term "aluminum bubble foil thermal properties" until i found a chart. R value is 12.3 http://i.imgur.com/opoQsTZ.png. Its probably around there somewhere.
  
  
• Refrigerants, spray in urethane foam is 6.0 for comparison. http://i.imgur.com/RaanWcQ.png. Air ambient is 1.0 http://i.imgur.com/HmwRNnN.png. Regular cardboard is something like 3.0 or less
  
  ----
  

  manufacturing of cheap, insulation material
  

  
  

• Might as well found out why said material is so cheap, according to amazon, and your competition's packing.
  
  
• Alibaba.com would be the best resource here to see how its made since it probably comes from china. Also, "Google Video" searches. https://vimeo.com/99022623. Found a better video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5PDoD8b86U
  
  
• Buying bulk material, skipping uline. If you buy lots of stuff, sometimes its better to order direct. Here's how I'd go about purchasing it too. http://i.imgur.com/otkDcQK.jpg. >Also, looking at one of the landing pages. http://i.imgur.com/a5q4jkY.png
  
  

•What did you wish you knew or learned before owning your first house? Honestly, my husband is awesome and takes care of all these little things around the house. 1. Houses have filters for the air system if they have a central air unit. And if you're like me, change that thing often! I have allergies. 2. Depending on where you live, make sure there's nothing you need to do before winter comes. We live in the great white north so we make sure our spicket outside is set for winter. We accidentally left our hose out all winter last winter. 3. Get a Lint Brush for your dryer. When you notice your clothes aren't getting dry like they used to anymore, check for a huge lint monster! 4. If you have a sump pump (ours is under our stairs) check it regularly to make sure it's working. Especially before your rainy/wet seasons. Better to be proactive about maintenance then have a wet basement. That's our learning so far :)

•What the hell do I do for the next 30 days? How do I not poop myself out of stress and excitement? I can't help you there! Haha!

•What is the best way to pack? To purge stuff I don’t need? Do I just Kondo it all? Honestly yes, I would say purging while you pack will help when you get to the new house and start putting stuff away. You will always accumulate more things haha. Also in terms of packing label all your boxes with which room they go in, that way when you're hot and sweaty moving you don't have to think about where they go. And label them if they're fragile, so when your packing the truck you know which boxes shouldn't be on the bottom etc. Use garbage bags for clothes! Just grab a bunch on hangers and wrap a garbage bag around them instead of taking them off the hangers just to put them back on.

•How is the best way to move when you don’t have friends and don’t want to hurt yourself lol? Without hiring movers, then I would say that you want to get a big truck to fit everything at once so you only have to make one trip. If it's hot, drink lots of water, take lots of breaks.

•When should I reserve the Uhaul? The sooner the better to ensure you'll get the size truck you want.

•I know I need to set up water and trash and transfer utilities. When do I do that? Do it now. Call the companies, they're prepared and will just ask you when you close on your house, usually they will take care of the rest then.

•I’m gonna probably hire cleaners for our apartment just because I’m gonna be so busy. Any other apartment move-out tips? Nope! Did you document when you moved into your apartment for any damages that were already there? If so, I would find that just in case the apartment wants to blame you for that stuff.

•Any YouTube or book resources for home owning for idiots? Honestly we just youtube stuff as we go haha.

•Things we totally need that we didn’t know we’d need. The lint brush I told you before. Also 9V batteries because you'll have a ton of smoke detectors if it's a newer construction. If it isn't maybe look to see how many are in your house, do you think there's enough smoke detectors?

•How do I live with my very old MIL and not go insane? Oh no no, I can't help you there. My MIL would drive me bonkers!

•we have to landscape our own backyard. Where do I find a good person to pour my very simple concrete slab? I want a clover lawn because I’m allergic to grass. Is that stupid? I can't help you with the concrete, I have my husband find our people, but the clover lawn sounds amazing! I am also allergic to grass haha!

​

GOOD LUCK! YOU CAN DO IT!

Don't bother with the smart pot brand pots, just find a good fabric grow bag with handles. I use these. I'd also get a different pH tester, or go the analog route with some of this, it's kind of annoying to do but it works. Blue Lab makes very reliable meters, they are worth the extra money if you decide to buy a meter. A lot of problems are caused by improper pH, you definitely don't want to cheap out on a meter (unless you wanna buy new ones all the time). Analog is just as reliable although you can't be as precise with your measurements as you can with digital. This hasn't been a problem for me.

To address some of your questions: Your plan for ventilation sounds fine, you may want to get a window dryer vent to assure the air doesn't flow back through your window. This also makes it a little more stealth.

Nutrients won't be necessary for about 30 days in FFOF because it's a hot soil. In fact if you feed them anything you'll probably burn them. Some seedlings will burn in FFOF regardless of whether or not you feed them nutes, some people recommend their happy frog soil for starting seedlings, then transplanting into FFOF after the roots have developed. Usually you'll be fine in FFOF so I wouldn't worry as long as you're feeding plain water for the first 25-30 days.

You should also get a hygrometer to monitor temps and humidity, it's very helpful in diagnosing potential problems. Other than that and some liquid nutes you've got what you need on that list.

Also, you should definitely start in a smaller container than 5 gal for your seedlings. Get some of those red solo cups, oversized if you can find them. You can establish the plant in those and transplant them right into the 5 gallon.

FYI: it's pretty easy to make adapters for something like this.

Buy one or more of these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00192QB9M (or something similar, there's many out there)

And for the plug pictured, you can get a cord like this: www.amazon.com/NEMA-6-20P-C13-Power-Cord/dp/B004WJNDR2

Cut the wrong end off the 6-20 cord and wire it to your 14-50 receptacle and bam, you got yourself an adapter.

It's very important, as mentioned by others, that you set your car to only charge at 16A if you do this, though, and never let anyone use your "adapter" for anything else, as most uses for such an adapter would not have the luxury of being able to dial down the amperage to be safe.

If you want an adapter to plug in to a dryer outlet, you can use something like this: www.amazon.com/Certified-Appliance-90-1010-3-Wire-4-Feet/dp/B00009W3P5 and wire it to the same receptacle, again making sure to set the charge amperage on your car properly. Note that there are two different common dryer receptacles out there and you want a cord that matches your need (or one of each?).

Exactly my plan. Found a good and quite fan designed for AV racks and a special vent designed for windows:

The vent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-39QCb1FACNR0

The fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c0aRCb9HB2TGH

And a standard dryer hose and a custom “box” to fit to the back of the rack and have a 4” hole in the top (to benefit hot air rising) that goes to the fan then the vent.

...snrk....pppthhh......bwahahahahahahahaha! - Owner of 4.5 Huskies and a g-shep.

This comes with owning a husky.

As some others have mentioned get a robot vacuum, they are life savers when it comes to the fur, but you have to run them a couple of times a day. You may want to splurge on the new Roomba that self empties too - that'll be our next one when the current one gives up the ghost because you have to empty them pretty often and it's 99% fur. Frequent brushing can help as well, and we actually have a good groomers blower. That one is a bit overkill, but fur flies off them and it makes drying them after a bath super easy.

If it’s super short, yeah you could do it like that... shove the vac tube into the dryer tube. But if it’s longer then that, you’ll need something like this:

Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q3SyCbBE3N5DX

Turn your dryer on with the heat off, attach to power drill, and feed that in from the outside of the house.

Don’t clean flexible tube this way, only the “hard” sheet metal tube. You’ll be surprised at how much comes out.

This is also a common service provided by handymen.

If the 5100 is too pricey, I would still recommend the 5301 before you go down to the 4000k or fantastic fan. Fantastic fans are prone to breaking and having this rain guard is a life saver. You don’t want water dripping through in the middle of the night whilst your asleep.

Plus, if there’s anything to not be stingy about, it’s your ventilation.

On Amazon i saw the 5100 was $210 and the 4000k was $130. You just gotta drop the extra $80 and know that it’ll be worth it completely.

Here’s that other one
MAXXFAN DLX 5301K WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ikr1AbPA3KDDC

Ferrets do well in groups, and a friend is recommended if possible. We had a deaf girl, and she was the most adorable of the bunch, never had many health problems, and any she had could more likely be attributed to being the runt of the litter.

Is your vet a general vet or an exotic vet? Some veterinarians don't have much experience with ferrets.

What kind of temperature is she usually in, how old is she, and does she drag herself when walking? Energy levels could be a contributor.

Ferrets each like different things, and there are many things to try, but if she likes the tunnel, I suggest looking at clear plastic dryer tubing, Like this one

Not sure where your exhaust vent is on your dryer, but check something like this out, it may be slightly better than your current situation.

This one is a bit pricier, don't know how well it works, but should work well.
Filtered indoor vent

A lot are cheaper and use water... I'm assuming yours may do this already. Cheap ones tend to spew water out.

Here's a better one with steel filter and water.

We had the same issue with our LG dryer. The rollers and belt needed to be replaced. I ordered this set but you'd have to find a match for your model:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3LWM3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8zpVDb6PF6SW6

We watched a few YouTube videos on how to replace both and then spent about an hour getting it done. We cleaned out all the dust and lint while we had it open too. It sounded brand new once we were done. The one thing I'd point out is that there are a few different types of screws you'll be removing. Make sure to number them or something, so you know which type go where when it's time to reinstall. Good luck!

As said its very easy to do. If you leave a deposit you are welcome to use my dryer cleaning tool. Just hook it up to a drill and it will clean it out well.

For those wondering what I and others are talking about its this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

About eight years ago, I mailed four heavy spanner wrenches that all fit perfectly into a single SMALL flat rate box. Went from Florida to Washington State for like $5 or $6 at the time.

you can get a window duct and duct it out that way... that way you aren't recycling humidity into the room.

Also, clean your room. A clean space is a clean mind.

this is almost certainly the solution. As noted, heating element is easily tested with continuity tester. The heating element for this model is $22, or $18 on Amazon. Generic works fine. You can keep your old fuse as a standby replacement.

I've heard about dryer tubes from others so I ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFTEO/ and it was half the price of a Marshall's thru-way. Unfortunately, it was also half the distance of the thru-way and the plastic was very thin. I recently had to throw it out because it was torn in places and the wire at the end was poking through and scratching them. Meanwhile, the stupid Marshalls tube has lasted years so I think it's worth the extra $.

Cereal boxes you say? Ok, I'm inspired. Sometimes I tape together beer boxes to make little forts for them to play it, but I'm thinking if I cut up the cereal boxes and roll them, tape then into a tube shape, they'd love it! I could even attach them to the beer box....

Am I a crazy ferret lady? Yes.

If you are only using butane torches and a pickle pot, you may be able to get away without one, but it is healthier if you use ventilation. You are going to inevitably burn oils and other contaminants and that should not be going into your lungs.

A 200 CFM, 4" duct fan can be used with a dryer hose and a 'vent periscope' box to make a permanent in-window vent system. Add some duct insulation and it won't bleed heat. The basic setup is about $60.


https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch-Inline-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B01M7S46YZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/

My periscope box installed: https://imgur.com/MIJTJDY

My vent setup: https://imgur.com/tNHUJ8X

I'm using Acetylene, and that gives off soot, so I *need* a vent system. I will probably add a stove hood from the remodelling surplus store just for better smoke collection.

Could you run it inside the wall, up and out the roof with something like this?

If I were you, I'd consider removing the exterior siding and window from that wall, since it's now an indoor wall, and switching it to drywall. Do exterior siding and windows on the outside of your home. This will also help make your add-on look less like an add-on.

If you pull the siding off, you can try to re-run the duct inside the wall while the wall is open.

Any 3" vent would work fine. It's basically a dryer vent...except you don't want a fancy one with a door that only lets air out

What you're looking for is something like this. Bonus if it has a cage/screen to keep critters out.

I've already got a new 4-prong cord but I need to replace the tab on the right there first. Would a butt splice electrical taped on be alright?


Edit: Bought everything I need, thanks everyone for the input.

Keep the awesome old washer. Get your drain cleaned and buy something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Lint-Filter-Drain-Screen/dp/B005E0M14E

I use a Sploofy so it probably wouldn’t get covered in tar fast, especially if I use some sort of pre filter(perhaps a premium one if it is offered). I need the carbon filter to clean the air not just blow it away and leave a lingering oder behind. Any advice for relatively cheap, powerful and quiet in-line fan(6in. and high cfm)? I am Considering making a smoke room out of a thick and relatively large grow tent wit a carbon filter and in-line fan ducting out to a 6 in. Dryer Duct Window Mount with some sort of insulation, possibly poster board. Will also look into getting ona gel to put near the start and finish of the ducting (outside the tent, to account for leakage). I know it’s overkill, but I would like the remainder of the room to not have any odor.

I’ve bought this one numerous times. It’s a good one. Your next project may be to check your ventilation and make sure it’s clean. A dryer running to hot will put more stress in the coils than one that’s ventilating efficiently.

Endurance Pro 279838 8565582 Dryer Heating Element Replacement for Whirlpool Kenmore Sears Maytag KitchenAid Magic Chef https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYZC219/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yx4ODbX95HX3Q

I have this thing. It's nice http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Lint-Trap-Filter-LTF0001/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1452290224&sr=8-14&keywords=lint+catcher keeps the basement nice and warm, and where I live its fairly dry in the winter, so it adds a bit of moisture to the air.

Because flex isn't going to seal well on the exterior wall. Galvanized sheet metal tube will allow you to seal the hole better.

The other trick is to have the exterior dryer vent pipe behind the washer. This makes installation of the dryer vent pipe not "blind".

Use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=adjustable+dryer+vent&qid=1572968068&s=hunting-fishing&sr=8-1

Basically:

• Install dryer and connect pipes, tape with UL listed aluminum tape.
  
• Pipe is routed from behind dryer to behind the washer.
  
• Install washer, since the hoses are flexible and it's easier to slide it back as you don't need to align anything.
  
  I'd get reports on service calls for dryers. The #1 issue for "won't dry well" is that the pipe was too short. The fix was to restrict the flapper on the outside by of the house by ~50% with a screw.

You can easily do it yourself with something like this. I am sure you can find a longer one if necessary or buy 2 and use the rods to make it longer.

It really is a simple DIY project.

This maxxfan is under $185.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-0005301K-MAXXFAN-5301K-WHITE/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511334692&sr=8-6&keywords=maxxfan

I'd question how well a simple little $30 fan will work. The Maxxfan is a known quantity. If you decide to go with what /u/biased_user_agent suggested I would actually go out the side instead of the roof. I think that may be easier to find an appropriate rain cover to prevent water ingress.

Surprised nobody has recommended this.. I just did this and it's much easier than you think it is. Just wiggle the whole thing, the tray underneath and all, get to the vent and use this thing Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit, Lint Remover, Extends Up To 12 Feet, Synthetic Brush Head, Use With or Without a Power Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_01SBCb7GJMR72

Also

• Get yourself one of these and clean the dryer vent. Good to do about once a year too.

Are you referring to a spanner wrench as well?

Would you recommend this one?

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Whirlpool-Washing-Machine-Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?modelNumber=WTW5510VQ0&ss=a11b5i321d705910&mr=1


Or this one

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-TB123A-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B00A8O0E72/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493733223&sr=8-3&keywords=spanner+wrench

Pull it down and add a 90 to it and slip it back up?

Also since you are all humped up. It would be good to install something like this.

Dryerbox Model 425 DB-425 | New Construction 2x6 Walls - Venting up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J4WY58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CV9DDb3HANV1S

If you have 2x6 wall. I think they make a 2x4 version too.
It makes it so your hose does not get smashed.

Also invest in something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510832967&sr=8-1&keywords=duct+cleaner It makes it much easier to keep your vent line cleaned out on the regular.

Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.

I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!

600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50

6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75

25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10

48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99

FFOF - $18.99

General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95

CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23

Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65

Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19

Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84

PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95

Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59

LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81

Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.

Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

One could set another bucket at a higher level than the FIgJam cooler. Then either use a valve to refill or an aquarium float in the FJ to maintain level. But a FJ cooler will run for4-6hrs. So refilling it is not that big of deal really. (Mine is used for grey water evap so I had a second bucket a valve setup.)

100ah deep cycle batts are the way to go. Don't cheap out and not go deep cycle. (FigJam himself uses a Wal-Mart $80 Deepcycle) Solar panels for other than trickle charge to the batt are labor intensive to keep clean and lose efficiency for the same. So they are good to keep the batt topped off, but not to rely in it running you gear. Unless you are really into solar and know what to expect. It's not all plug and play.

To duct into the tent depends on if you want to cut a hole or not. Some use a dryer duct wall vent. Its glued or screwed the the tent wall. Might have to make a ring to sandwich the material. I would use semi rigid duct as it is stiffer and restricts air flow less then the spring type ducts. Wrap with a towel or foil bubble wrap for some insulation. 5" with one end made to a square fits tightly around the PC fan frame. Problem is 5" is an oddball size for dryer vet fittings that are 4 or 6". Go 6" if you need to chose. less air restriction that way.

If you don't want to cut a hole than you need to stick through the door and seal it up the best you can with a towel or similar.

Be sure to have a vent in the ten to allow air to escape... Swamp are air in - air out cooling.

Here is a link for pumps, fans, media, etc.

If anyone has questions, let me know. I've built a number of them in various forms. Storage bin cooler last year. Trash can version this year. But I use them for grey water evap. A lot less messy then a evap pond or air driven evap.

Have you tried a different dryer vent design? Not advocating the specific product, but something like this.

Get this to clean the vent and this to clean the lint trap. Cheap insurance.

Clear duct

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DZFTEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440969&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clear+dryer+tube&dpPl=1&dpID=41AoDi00moL&ref=plSrch

Or ferret tube ($3 more)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DJL0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510440876&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+tube+ferret&dpPl=1&dpID=51UTXj57prL&ref=plSrch

Amazon Vent


This is what I use. Easy to install and hook a hose.

This is about as good as you can do. Apparently it's called a periscope. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=thin+dryer+vent&qid=1574717108&sr=8-7

How about a window dryer vent setup? The vent has a flap so only air out as long as flow is good. https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

They make a terminal block kit that comes with new wires to splice into the harness. And of course you have to buy a new cord. If you are not comfortable splicing wires then you should call someone but it is an easy repair. https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-279320-Terminal-Block-Dryer/dp/B004XLDCTS

I do air balance for a living and certify fume hoods, operating rooms, etc so Im very familiar with fans and duct systems. Personally, I would go with something like: http://www.amazon.com/inch-400-CFM-Ventilation-Exhaust/dp/B008HVBSJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419390491&sr=8-3&keywords=300+cfm+exhaust+fan

then do a small section of 6" hard duct off the fan inlet and then add this:
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-AF625ULPZW-Aluminum-6-Inches/dp/B001AHASV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419390690&sr=8-2&keywords=6%22+vent+duct

onto the end and down near whatever youre welding. I would also add a small tapered metal plenum on the end of the flex duct so that if some spatter hits it, it wont effect it.

Sounds like you already tried a short metal connector but said it wouldn't fit. I'm surprised that you couldn't get the ruffled side in enough give you something to grip. Sometimes you need to get some pliers and manipulate the edges to get it to cram in.

But anyway, Maybe try something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Dryer-Dock-Vent-Tubes-White/dp/B0028BAAWW

Even if the white plastic part doesn't fit in your hole you could saw that part off with a coping saw or something so it sits flush against the hole and attach it stud/drywall around the hole.

Check the vent. It's free. I had a clog near where the vent exited my house in the attic because someone put a 8in cylinder of chicken wire in the duct. I should have checked there first, but I only spent ~$20 on this when I was debugging.

Def appreciate your input. I was planning on using a dryer vent box. This one in particular : Dryerbox Model 425 DB-425 | New Construction 2x6 Walls - Venting up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J4WY58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hd.xDbM9S7E8D

Bad idea? Is there anyway to achieve a clean look

Does the gas dryer get the clothes hot?

If so, the venting could be the issue. Most places Ive lived, The vent line ran through the house or garage to the front or rear of the house. Ive paid $50-$70 to have someone come out and clean out the dryer vent lines and its made a HUGE difference when they get clogged.

This is not needed if the outside vent is directly behind the dryer but you should still pull the dryer out and check there are no clogs in the line.

You can buy a DIY kit for about $20 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Dryer-Duct-Cleaning-Extends/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9DHKNVPT742EK4GPP46A

The dryer is likely fine.

Don't be surprised if your washer has some leaks. Our home actually has two washer/dryer hookups, we have a washer/dryer in both, but one pair is very seldom used. If the washer sits for more than a month or so unused, the bottom seal dries out and it drips/splatters water. I replaced the seal a few times; we finally decided to just stop using it altogether. The most expensive part of the repair was buying a special wrench to remove the tub nut. You'll probably need one too - research and make sure you get the right one for your model.

I would hook it up in your driveway first, plug it in with an extension cord and run it through a cycle to look for leaks. Just use a cheap hose splitter with a garden hose and hookup both hot and cold sides to your garden hose.

Well this is an interesting and unexpected tangent. This is the product we are using for venting. Curious to get your feedback on it.

It's an electric dryer. It seems as thought the exhaust is just steam and lint. Am I missing something?

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tScxzbZ07FAV7

There are any number of these available, though most are 2" wide. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S

Maybe past owner tried to snake out the drain with some sort of rod system (the photo almost looks like a vent cleaner you would use for a dryer vent https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ ) and it broke?

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1525715320&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaner+kit

I have the same kind, I got it here!

window vent

Buying the kit for the first time. Thoughts on this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525707007&sr=8-4&keywords=dryer+vent+cleaner

Each elbow counts as 5 feet. So your vent run is equal to 25 feet which is marginal. Here's another brand but same exact idea. They are even interchangeable with the LintEater Brand. https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-Cleaning-Remover-Extends-Synthetic/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519742734&sr=8-5&keywords=lint+eater&dpID=519%252B92SyeDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You could try this with curtains.https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4396037RP-Inch-Vent-Periscope/dp/B001AAEG6S

Check this out: Whirlpool 4396037RP 0-to-18 Inch Vent Periscope Whirlpool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AAEG6S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_ASoWBbQRXMZ7T

Unhook from dryer, use one of these Deflecto Dryer Duct Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB4BMDQ/

Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CkEIDb0NFGP6Y

Could that fit in the top if it slides down? Nothing unsafe about just throwing it out but if the heats on forget trying to keep it in with that window open.

The ones with the condenser take a significantly longer time to dry. And lots more parts = less long term reliability

I've used that style and it's terrible. I finally found one that I like.

Indoor Lint Trap Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RNPOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nSWDxb7BZ3ABC

The magnetic thing in the GIF would work really well.

There is actually something made specifically for this problem indoor lint trap filter

Buy a secondary lint trap:

https://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Lint-Trap-Filter-LTF0001/dp/B008RNPOIU

Ah the good-ole-duct trick.

> I'm so tempted to try and break 4.6GHz, but my apartment simply gets hot too fast if I go crazy with overclocking.

https://www.amazon.com/Window-Vent-Adjusts-Through-Works/dp/B01M17V4CO

I know people who do this with their main outs, forces the hot air outside, mounting can be tricky but can work well.

This model doesn't appear to have that option. I wouldn't recommend doing it if there is no knock out on the side. http://www.maytag.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchResultView?catalogId=10562&langId=-1&storeId=10212

You can get the low clearance kit like this to go from rear to side https://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Duct/dp/B001AH3K72/ref=pd_sim_sbs_201_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=312n068d4NL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=0Z4JM6K38G5N4DHBBAAF