Reddit mentions: The best rc servos & parts

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

Great work!

I do agree, that the 'multi arm' approach is the way to go (EDIT: triple arm minimum, as I just did some testing and with only two arms there is really no way to effectively stabilize 'anything' that you are holding as the item tends to easily rotate out of control), unless you have access to a 3d printer and effectively free filament, etc.

The geared linear approach was done as a 'cheapest' first attempt to duplicate TempestVR's and tomotomox's work in linking a robot directly to VAM. After having done that, and then done the tcp/ip connection, I moved directly now to the multiple servo/axis approach. It is funny how much less printing will be required, lol.

Also, in ref to the geared linear approach, I was working on modifying the gear for the 20kg amazon servo I had bought DS3218MG ( https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4) as seen here ( https://imgur.com/a/OMaqHPL ), and per the dimensions in the images for the servo, the arm has a stated furthest hole of 23.5mm, turns out I had to do a few prints of test gears as the hole was actually at 24.5mm! Not to mention, where the central 'hub' is, it is different from the MG995R, so, that then now threw off the 'gearing' being properly mated and so then there is play between the rack and pinion, lol! With a multiple servo/axis setup, that wouldn't be an issue at all! The only alignment issues are effectively those due to the proper synchronized control of the 2+ servos.

I looked into using the ram mount too, and like it, but I think I'm going to go with this https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ , it is meant for holding up 22 pound monitors, so I think it shouldn't oscillate too much while the robot is in motion. In addition it can be mounted to a desk, to the side of a bed, and has a nice long articulating arm and 75 and 100mm VESA mounts which will be easy to 3d print something to attach to. A non-clamped version that you could 'sit around' is here https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/

So at this point, I'm currently printing the housing for the new multi axis robot for testing, it will be a 3-4 servo setup in the end, might have a few variants. Going to be using an adafruit servo hat https://www.amazon.com/2327-Raspberry-Servo-Development-Board/dp/B00SI1SPHS/ and a raspberry pi and the tcp/ip VAM connection.

Lastly, once I get the multiple axis setup, I will then move to the code/algorithms such that there can be a seemless transition from the VAM 'movements' to the new robot(s) based on it's features. The idea is to make all this as seemless and easy as possible for anyone to do themselves.

And all thanks to TempestVR for all his contributions, without him I wouldn't have done any of this!

A simple servo would do it; most have a movement range of about 120 degrees. Some like this have a much larger movement range https://www.amazon.com/Miuzei-Torque-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B07HNTKSZT/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=servo&qid=1557374596&s=electronics&sr=1-25-spons&psc=1 those are cheap no-name servos but they have performed surprisingly well for me; if you want to get something expensive then HiTec is good. You can control it directly from the Pi if you want to, or you can use a dedicated controller board like a https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-PCA9685-Channel-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B014KTSMLA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=servo&qid=1557374551&s=electronics&sr=1-5 which will sit between the servo and the Pi. The only concern is that the servo may need a maximum of 2 amps when moving, so you just need to ensure that the power supply for the system is sufficient - so a connection to a decent USB wall charger will be good, but a common PC USB port wouldn't provide enough power.

For the actual setup, consider where you actually mount the motor. You may not be able to attach it directly to the lampshade, but you may be mounting it to the table or base of the lamp and connecting it to the lampshade through a small rod. It's just one of the "oh, of course" things you'll run into when trying to bring the parts together. The pivot point for most lampshades is on the bulb, but you don't want to attach the servo to the bulb.

Its probably worth it to get a decent transmitter. I would personally recommend the Taranis Qx7 but you could also buy a Spektrum Dx6 or a FlySky-I6. Keep in mind these use different protocols so make sure to get a compatible reciever.
A word about flitetest: Their power packs and speed build kits are kind of expensive as they use drone motors, waterproof foam board, and laser cutting. Their construction methods, while they make great flying planes, they are a bit involved (require curved, symmetrical cuts, a folding, sometimes soldering skill), and they are not durable in my experience (particularly their wings). For example, the Storch with PP-C would run $100. You can build a plane for ~$60 using Experimental Airlines methods(Not including reusable stuff like Transmitter and batteries).
I stared with an Experimental Airlines Noobtube and I would recommend either this plane or the EA Axon for any beginner. The Noobtube is a bit fast and has a front mounted propeller, though.
As far as gear, here are some components I personally use:
30A ESC
Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv
9g Servos ($1.80 each!)
Pushrods
6x4 props or even a 3-blade 6x4.
A couple more things you may find useful: servo wire extenders, landing gear, gift cards, and duct tape.

> Well shit didn't think about that with the controller. Here is exactly what I ordered.http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-th9x-r9b-9channel-radio.html

According to the description it comes with a receiver.

> Just bought 2 of the 3S 5500mAh 30-40C

That should do you nicely.

> Any other random things you think we will need

Using amazon links and favoring prime options even if a few $$ more. The most cost effective way to get any of the below would be ebay and slow free shipping.

• Double sided mounting tape to help hold the ESCs, receiver, or flight controller in place. I do NOT use the "heavy duty" or "permanent" mounting tape as you may want to move things around or swap out parts at some point. My preference is the 3M/Scotch Clear Mounting Tape as I find to easy to remove from the surface. Should be able to find the mounting tape at hardware store or even a target/walmart.
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  
• You'll need a way to connect your batteries to your power distribution board. The batteries you picked use a Dean-Style T Connector. You'll need to make a connector cable like this to attach to your power dist board. - Image. You can either make your own cable from scratch or cut and repurpose existing cables.
  
• From "Scratch" - Connectors + Wire + some heat shrink and soldering time.
  
• Repurpose - Buy one of these, cut off the unneeded end, and solder to the S550's power distribution board. http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Tamiya-Charge-Adapter/dp/B0035OYLU8/
  
• Parallel battery connector. Gives you the option to either run one or two 5500mAh batteries. Making a 11000mAh for long flights - http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Ultra-Battery-Harness-Parallel/dp/B000RGZ07A/
  
  
• If your radio receiver doesn't come with servo leads you'll need them to connect between the radio receiver and the flight controller (and gimbal)
  
• Short - http://www.amazon.com/deep-deal-10cm-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B00BL0YGS0/
  
• Extension - http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Female-Futaba-Extension-Control/dp/B00N8P8TT8/ Might be needed to run leads to the gimbal for tilt control. Prime... so you can wait on this till you know if the other servo cables will be long enough.
  
  
• Battery straps. I'm running out the door so can't search/grab more links right now, but you'll need some velcro straps to hold the battery or batteries in place.
  
  
• You'll want to check ebay for extra S550 arms if you haven't already. Shipping will take a while, but they are cheap and good to have some spare arms, as they will break. Alternate front/back/side colors are nice to help maintain orientation in the sky.
  
  
• Extra props is you haven't ordered any. NOTE: The DJI E310 Power set uses the newer 9450 DJI props instead of the older 9443
  
  

Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock

You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo

For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.

For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.

Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!

Go cheap futaba reciever and goolrc esc with a goolrc motor. Very affordable. Treat it right and it should last awhile. All purchasable on amazon. Don't skimp on reciever and controller sadness will insue. Same thing for servo go 3003 futaba. All affordable stuff even the knock offs are decent. Lowest grade but good stuff for the low price.


Reciever
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EFZBB4/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889363&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65


Esc motor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z9QF8UC/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889402&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65


Servo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889656&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=futaba+3003





Charger https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GYPG5JU/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468893518&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

My gool rc esc burned up after 6 or so runs. Got a better esc from them with 80amps and was very happy. But I'm pretty sure it burned up because I abuse the shit out of my cars and was running a 3s at very high gearing also was ramping my car onto my roof and it fell a lot. I really like goolrc product for price and quality. This is dollar store electronics. Pay any less and you are in toy range. Literally my goal was to go fast on a budget. Now not with the set up linked but with the companies linked I've gone 65 and the products lived to run again.


I've tried lesser electronics and was nothing but dissapointed. These products I have owned multiple and only lost 1 motor and 1 esc due to abuse.very happy and don't blame them for the loss. Gear this shit right and you are so good. Owned all these products no complaints

Hey, another Canadian made basically the same question once before, here's my guide to a quick start on R/C drifting with a Tamiya TT-02D:

For 400 you can get a kit like a Tamiya TT-02D and all you need to get driving with it. The advantage of the TT-02 chassis is it has cheap and widely available spare parts, and it comes not only as a drifting chassis. The -D spec has motor cooling and slippery drifting tires included, but if you mount ordinary sticky rubber tires on it, it will work just fine as a racer too (I do that myself).

What you'll need:

-Basic tools to assemble the kit such as phillips head screwdrivers, allen keys etc.

-https://www.amazon.ca/58605-Nismo-Z-Tune-TT02D-Drift/dp/B00T2DKL5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1513262988&sr=1-2&keywords=tt02d+kit Car kit - there are other bodies available in the starter kit, but make sure you get a kit that actually includes a body!

-https://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-Transmitter-FS-GT3B-2-4Ghz-Receiver/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511338151&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt3b transmitter and receiver set

Battery pack and charger set: https://www.amazon.com/3800mAh-rechargeable-battery-Tamiya-Charger/dp/B01HDKBRKG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511341916&sr=8-14&keywords=7.2+nimh+battery+and+charger

-metal gear servo for the steering: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1513263076&sr=8-7&keywords=metal+gear+servo

-Some lexan paint for the body in your colour of choice - I recommend Tamiya PS-colour

The total for all this is about 335 CAD if I'm not mistaken - and it is just about the cheapest option, I really spent a lot of time working out how to try out R/C drifting cheaply when I bought mine. You can get additional wheel sets and such from China on ebay very cheaply.

EDIT: The Amazon links are a reference just to show it can be done - you should probably take a look at some R/C dealers instead since they'll have all the things you might need later on and you'll know they can deliver :) Here in Europe I shop in 4 different countries to get the things I actually want...

The lipo batteries you are dealing with are unlikely to explode if you're charging them at around 1C charge rate, meaning that if they take around 45- to 75 minutes to charge, they should be fine. The specific time depends on the chemistry of the battery though, some are known to get down to 30 minutes or less. Overcharging them shouldn't do much besides shortening life however. I'd be more concerned with Li-ion batteries as those aren't made to handle high charge/discharge.

If your battery starts to puff up with air or gets too hot to touch, then you have a problem. If you're still concerned, follow the other guy's advice and get a lipo safety bag.

This will serve well as an alternate battery with similar flight times. It's built to take a bit of abuse and still perform well. Personally I've bought four of the company's larger three cells and have not had a single one display signs of failure or get above 95 degrees (degrees F). Grab a couple of them or some with slightly more mah ( milliamp hours). In addition, one of these will come in handy to charge two at once, although it will take longer.

Battery life doesn't really get much better than 8-10 minutes at that size level. For instance, I'm currently in the process of getting together a list of parts and for 20-ish minute flight times I'm looking at 12 inch propellers (bigger is usually more efficient) with high grade motors (the ones on your quad are most likely brushed inrunners, smaller and lighter but less efficient in the long run).

Once you're confident with your UDI and and understand the fundamentals of multirotors you could pick up a low end phantom, and as long as you abide by proper flying techniques and avoid flying directly over people and don't fly recklessly then you'll be fine. Regardless of the DJI stigma, the Phantom is a solid and fun unit to fly, although it does have its issues, much like other system. A good pilot knows his/her aircraft and what is/isn't good for it.

I looked up your Lego Mindstrom EV3 motors and they can support 20Ncm = 2kgcm, so they can carry around 2kg.

I use lewansouls, they're pretty strong and they're 15kgcm at 6V motors:

https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LDX-227-Standard-Digital-Bearing/dp/B077TXLWZS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-7&keywords=lewansoul

Also I've used this and it's pretty strong too:

https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LD-27MG-Standard-Digital-Aluminium/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-2&keywords=lewansoul&dpID=51XF68PmHqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I own the Sakura XI Sport. Can be had for $105. Get the speed passion 3500kv motor and esc combo on eBay for $50. Add a radio for $20. Battery and charger from hobbyking.com, maybe $40-$50. The hard case batteries with the removable plugs are the best type.

I bought the cheapest digital Hitec HS-5485HB servo for $20 (It's still running strong as ever).

Oh! and don't forget your drifting wheels! $9 free shipping ;D

That puts you right around $260 for the lot!

The Bombers are fun. I wanted one, but didn't want to have the same thing as the two of them so I went with the Wraith.

You will need to pick up a battery or two and a charger, so be sure to budget that into the price. The nice thing about crawlers is your going slowish most of the time so batteries last a lot longer. My friends get well over an hour of drive time out of their Bombers with 2s lipos (I think they have 5000mah ones).

The Bomber also uses the same steering servo as the Wraith. They have one plastic gear in them and it's the one that strips. It's happened to mine and one of the Bombers.

Here's the servo I'm running in my Wraith. It's much stronger and faster than the stock one.

https://www.amazon.com/BASTENS-response-digital-standard-Slickrock/dp/B00KO3HJVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468008682&sr=8-1&keywords=bastens+servo

Credit goes to my wife and her friend for the decoration. That was all faux fur from JoAnn's Fabric and acrylic paint. I did the frame and robot stuff :) I had to do a lot of work on the joints because they did not bend. I wanted it lower to the ground so the tail did not have to be so long and to give it a better look and more stability.

Dog skeleton (on sale right now for 10 bucks!):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Accents-Holiday-3-ft-Animated-Skeleton-Greyhound-with-LED-Illuminated-Eyes-6342-36559/206770838

Servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardware:
Raspberry Pi 3 B+

Servo control: Adafruit 16-Channel PWM / Servo HAT (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2327)

UI: Adafruit OLED Bonnet (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3531)

I was able to stack both the servo control board and OLED Bonnet on the Pi. I love this OLED Bonnet because it has a joystick and buttons so it provides a mini UI. I wrote a menu program for the Bonnet that loads on boot and lets me start the program for the tail and do an orderly shutdown.

Nice, I love the Wheely King. (So much so, I have purchased five over the years). If you ever feel like having sharper steering, this http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-Aluminum-Steering-Mounting/dp/B00A29A73E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454038766&sr=8-1&keywords=wheely+king+servo+mount
Coupled with a decent servo saver works awesome.

YESS! SCORE! I found the MG995 for 11 dollars instead of 16 on amazon, and a bought this other motor: https://www.amazon.ca/Rage-RC-S142-16-6VM-Standard-Analog/dp/B00MPW2N6K/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1483721265&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+servo


Just in case. The best thing though is that amazon offered the 30 day trial of prime again, and since I live in Toronto, which is the city next to the warehouse, I had 15 minutes left for same day shipping. This is awesome! I was wanting to finish my tf2 sentry project today! YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

servos are fun! I know so little about them, but I just had a project that needed one and I needed it quick, so ordered this on amazon, works pretty good.

Hmm, can you give more detail on your clock?
I expect that 42 servos is 7 segments * 6 digits. It that your plan?
Typically cost $5 or more each, which makes your idea $$$
.
I did a quick search and found this link, I can't vouch for the part or the vendor
.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD
You can get 10 pieces for $18, less than $2 each
I really like this line -- Sold by Miuzeipro and Fulfilled by Amazon.
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Maybe these links will be useful as well
.
SERVO MOTOR SG90 DATA SHEET
http://www.ee.ic.ac.uk/pcheung/teaching/DE1_EE/stores/sg90_datasheet.pdf
Arduino Tutorial: Using a Servo SG90 with Arduino
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmHNb5QAzc
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You will need some type of servo driver board. I suggest Adafruit or Sparkfun

Would you happen to have a parts list? I'd love to make a 3D Printed version of this, but I'm an extreme novice when it comes down to what hardware would be required.

https://moderndevice.com/product/educato/ Educato

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLR1498/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_NEvwDbMGHPGY5 4x 9g Micro Servos (only 3 needed)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X8YZJ64/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_xJvwDbXWTXEAR 9v battery terminal

Not sure what you're using for the Educato power plug. Could you share the power adapter specs? None of the kits seem to come with it.

Looks like a 3 pin toggle switch? is that a 2 or 3 position?

I run these Annimos servos and they are great and are super cheap. This one has twice the torque of the spektrum one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wFoUDbWRP70K1

I am trying to find a couple that attaches to [this servo](http://YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hVB3DbFXXHQFQ) that can hold a 1/4" shaft. Everything I've read online says that if you count the teeth you'll most likely get the right coupler. It's a 25T but the couplers I order don't seem to fit. Any help would be appreciated.

I’d start with the tires. Crazy as it sounds. Are the hubs 12mm hex or some pin type. The pin type wheels are getting harder to find. If you can easily replace the tires, I’d would do so and replace all the electronics too. Add some fresh shock oil and you are set to have some fun.

Cheap Amazon electronics: $164 plus battery of choice
Servo: $18

Motor and ESC: $46

Transmitter and receiver (tx rc): $48

Charger (any battery type): $52

These electronics are a “welcome to the hobby” kit. The transmitter can be used with up to 10 models by buying additional rx for $10 each. The battery charger can charge any battery type and is the cheap industry standard. You would have to decide if you want to go nimh or lipo. Either could be had for $30-$40.
The brushless combo will bring that car to life while hopefully being mild enough to not grenade your driveline.

As others have stated. Look up a servo tester like this one on Amazon. Simple, cheap, and effective.

In electricity, there's a lot of components that will require you provide a +5v DC signal, 5v is a standard that we've set. There's also a 3.5v standard which is more common in phones.

With the use of relays and additional power sources, you can control more power than that if you need to, though.

Just keep in mind that electricity is largely about tolerances. Just because you have a 5v line doesn't actually guarantee that it will always be 5 volts. There's a range that is thought to be acceptable. Seeing 4.8v, if I recall correctly, is still a "5v line"

Here's a pretty standard servo. It's not an "arduino servo" it's just a normal electrical component that when you apply voltage to its line, it operates. Since it operates in the 4.8-6v range, you can absolutely control this servo with the power from your arduino.

Yeah that'll work for now, just be careful not to create a short. Seriously, please be careful. These batteries can dump a lot of current very quick and will burn you best case, worst case burn your house down. In the future you'll probably be better off to pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jrelecs®-Charging-Banana-Phantom-Battery/dp/B00XBSBYCG

On Amazon its cheaper to buy them in 2 packs than 1. Can get them much cheaper on somewhere like HobbyKing but with shipping it might be a wash.

https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1538005906&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=20kg+servo

This is probably the best you can get for your budget

Esc is universal in general as long as it takes a 540 size motor essentially for your purpose, something like the hobbywing 1060 brushed esc is pretty great for motors down too 12 turns i believe.
Hell if you have an old electric esc you might be able too reuse that if its not burnt up from something in the past.

As it has a built in lipo cutoff you can set via jumpers if you don't want too use an older type of battery like a nimh or nicd battery.

Servo is fairly standardized as long as it pulls less then the esc Bec circuit which most do unless you are looking at very high torque or very high speed brushless servo's

Something like a half-decent 15 kg & fairly quick regular cheap servo should do fine in the rc10 as its rwd & fairly light in the front hell you can go with a cheap 8 kg servo if you want too heh.

This one is pretty good on reviews it seems & has plenty of torque & speed even for larger models, order 2x of these imo, you might want another one for something else later or in case one of them turns up doa, which is a bit rare but happens.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOSKAY-DS3218-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B01MU7TQV8/ref=lp_2234131011_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1568730244&sr=1-6#customerReviews

When it comes too radios you wont need anything advanced really 2.4 ghz pistol grip radio with built in memory too remember other models & receivers like a flysky gt3b & perhaps 2 - 3 receivers extra for other rc's perhaps down the line & then just lower steering dualrate and throttle dualrate if needed & if the radio happens to have that
(Some cheaper radios don't have throttle dualrate but almost always has steering dualrate.)

Get these cables https://www.amazon.com/Jrelecs%C2%AE-Charging-Banana-Phantom-Battery/dp/B00XBSBYCG/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1541257646&sr=1-4&keywords=xt60+charging+cable&dpID=41AnRIEx4yL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Use those to plug in the yellow xt60 connector into the charger (btw you do have an appropriate power supply to connect the charger to the wall right?), and plug the white balance connector directly into the charger.

Yeah, buying battery chargers for stuff like this is a pain in the ass cause nothing for r/c cars and planes is ever easy or cheap.

When you say the servo has stripped gears, do you mean internally, or the white servo arm that goes on top is stripped?

If it's internal, then another Hitec HS300 series servo should be fine as replacement.

I have that same rc. Good choice. I had to upgrade my servo in it right away.

I bought this and a huge difference

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_j7MgDb31PAEPE

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+control+motor+esc+with+arduino

These are useful for testing https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB

Haven't had any trouble with the smaller servos, but they really don't get used very often (maybe a half dozen times per run, if that). The servo I use now is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/

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I also have it in a 1/16 rock crawler. Strong (something like 2x the touque compared to the stock TRX-4 servo), drop in without mods, long cable that doesn't require an extension, and it includes a metal servo horn. I've bought several more and will be replacing the servos in other trucks as they die. I also own a $100 Savox 1210, which is still in the original box because the 20kg servo has been working so well. LOL

Any chance you could link me with some lipo batteries as per recommendation? Im not to keen on soldering.

Edit: so i checked, and the kit does not come with a servo. Would this servo be okay? [servo](Futaba S3003 Standard Servo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_paBhzbPF0JSN1)

Im on mobile. So formatting...

The kit is wedge only for now, to increase winningness. But next week when the CAD becomes open source, you'll be able to download and print the files for the servo lifter addition and throw some of these on.

Thanks! I was debating between those and those red metallic ones on Amazon but I think I'll just get the Towerpro ones.

take all screws out and make sure the front piece almost falls off on its own

Get a cheap servo motor
http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-31311S-HS-311-Standard-Universal/dp/B0006O3WVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411634957&sr=8-1&keywords=servo+motor

hook up wires to motor,
probibly a 5V motor so connect 3 AA batteries together for a total of 4,5V, connect switch

when actor bangs tv, someone presses switch, servo pushes top off TV

Budget: 12-ish $

Found it on amazon, and the specs show 25t, 5.9mm shaft. I'm not sure where you're looking, but online rc stores may be the key.

YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UF3DbTYV7YQ4

SIKAF MALL RC Servo Tester 3CH Digital Multi ECS Consistency Speed Controler Checker

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB&ved=2ahUKEwiowMasndneAhWPuVkKHTFtCmwQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1EAvUvcIBAQf07PF1_X-X8

You don't even need relays or angle position sensor at all if you use servos

Typical servo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=41bJ6ryi1oL&ref=plSrch

Smaller servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01608II3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=51yFqbET2aL&ref=plSrch

Arduino uno: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GRTSV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882886&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino&dpPl=1&dpID=51-rsyPvHOL&ref=plSrch

Bare microcontroller chip used on arduino (use this later in final build): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2DVNYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882925&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=atmega328p

This doesn't completely get rid of the need for a lot of servos but these ones are cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

You could use just a couple linear servos to raise and lower the entire pin art toy up and down and use 14 servos underneath to move the individual segments into place.

If you don't want to go this route, I don't know if you have access to other materials or a 3D printer, but you could construct something like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la30_i-NDFM

and use one rotational servo for each number and do the same thing where you raise and lower the entire pin art.

I looked into the two brands you mentioned, and all of the Hitec servos only rotate 90º as opposed to 180º from the adafruit servos.

The Futaba servos seem a bit slower than the adafruit servos. (0.16sec/60º for adafruit; 0.19sec/60º for this Futaba servo)

I'm not sure if that speed difference will matter. I might end up buying that Futaba servo anyway. My only worry is that the Futaba servo from amazon doesn't look like it comes with all the extras that are in the adafruit pictures...is that something that comes with every servo no matter where you buy it from?