Reddit mentions: The best reptile & amphibian habitat lighting

Thank you for being a caring individual who has wholehearted intentions for this turtle. However, I really want you to understand what you're getting yourself into.

I fully understand your desire to keep this super cool animal as a pet, but before you commit let me arm you with as much knowledge as I can. I was once in your shoes when I came across a hatchling in 1998 I named Georgie. Georgie is a Common musk AKA stinkpot and I started out woefully ignorant to the cost and maintenance involved in owning a turtle.

Now, for a slider the males tend to get around 7"-9" varying where the females can get a whopping 10"-12". Remember that every inch of turtle's SCL (length of shell from behind head to tail) requires about 10g water. If you've got a female there is the potential of needing a 120 gallon aquarium. This is not a terribly unreasonable price range for what you would need to house a larger full grown female slider. On top of that you will need to rig an out of water nesting box for your turtle to lay her eggs. If she does not have a place to lay her eggs it is extremely unlikely she will lay them in the water and she will possibly become "egg bound". This can absolutely be painfully fatal.

If you are lucky and working with a male he will be smaller, the cost of an appropriate enclosure will be reduced by a little, and you won't have to worry about nesting boxes. He will still need an area he can climb out of the water to dry completely while basking. For basking areas this is the ideal bulb for most any turtle. These need to be replaced every 9-12 months but no later than 12 months. They may still shine light but they will not function in a capacity acceptable for a reptile any longer.

As far as a filter you will be looking at a minimum of $150 upfront investment, but the filter replacement material can be managed at reasonable prices over time. Another option is creating your own. If you're interested in learning how let me know. I have some good resources. They may not be pretty but holy cow are they cost effective and efficient.

Now. The big thing here I really want to press is that this is an adult wild animal. You wouldn't bring a bear or a cougar home. You probably wouldn't bring an adult skunk or porcupine home. Unfortunately for turtles they are cool, cute, and appear weak/defenseless to many people and we end up in situations like this. A caring, wonderful individual trying to do right by an awesome animal but in the long run you're really not helping him/her.

You could set things up to be a decent home for this animal but you cannot replace the natural habitat it deserves to be in.

If you are interested in owning a turtle I have some awesome species suggestions that are much smaller and more manageable for indoor living. There is an amazing turtle subreddit called /r/turtle that is overflowing with advice and assistance to new turtle owners or those who are interested in becoming one.

I know how easy, better than many, it is to get attached and just want to keep the turtle. To this day I try to give my turtle the best life I can to make up for taking him from the beautiful and fantastic San Marcos river home he once had. Perhaps he wouldn't have survived and may have been eaten but as Americans I'm pretty sure our motto is to live free or die trying.

Your best option is to return him/her to EXACTLY the location (not with in a few miles but like a few yards if possible) they were at when you found it. It's best for the turtle, it's fair to the environment, and it gives you the opportunity to devote a bit of time and interest into looking into turtle care and finding a species that works for you!

Still alive !!! lol

> Just don't really like the idea of having to rely on a bunch of substances/supplements to function.

Think of it like this: A drug you used made you anxious, so you might have to use a drug to become normal again.

All of the supplements I recommended are sustainable long-term, and will actually enhance your brain and cognition, along with destroying anxiety.

Right now your brain is in an abnormal state, brought on by drugs, so you might have to use drugs again to bring it back.

The supplements I recommend are mainly to help you escape the anxiety, give you a buffer so you can function, give you rest.

The supplements are merely a way for your anxious brain to escape it's nasty thought patterns. After you feel normal you can reduce and remove supplements as you like.

> Currently use dipping tobacco

It should be fine. However, you should quit tobacco to see if it helps relieve the anxiety. If you can't quit however, that's fine. Dipping tobacco is pretty harmless, so don't stress about it and keep on dipping.

I will list the supplements and explain why they can help you.

Memantine: Sent you an article about it

L-theanine: Weak anxiolytic, but a nootropic as well. Increase BDNF, NGF, GABA, Dopamine, Glycine, NMDA antagonist. If you didn't feel good effects, up your dose. If you still don't feel good, trash it. If it doesn't work don't use it.

Gotu Kola: Mitochondrial enhancer, potent antioxidant, nootropic, actually grows GABA receptors/neurons, so it's actually better long-term than short term. Really good herb, love it.

Magnesium: NMDA antagonist, good for sleep. Good to prevent deficiency. Magnesium is hugely important to health.

Glycine: Hits the Glycine receptor, which is inhibitory. Good for joints and general health as well. Good for sleep.

UV: Increases Vitamin D, which you are worried about. Vitamin D from UV light is different than supplemental Vitamin D3, they have different absorption properties.

Lions Mane: Nootropic, anecdotally known as an anxiolytic. Potent.

Lemon Balm: Increases GABA by inhibiting it's degradation, inhibits acetylcholinesterase. Increases superoxide-dismutase, glutathione. Potent nootropic, antioxidant, health panacea.

Broccoli sprouts/broccoli: Loads of benefits, amazing detoxification abilities, nootropic, strong antioxidant, HDAC inhibitor.

Eat fish too. Sardines and salmon are a good start. Add oysters if you can.

Also, imagine that you might be like this forever, that you might be anxious for the rest of your life. I don't think you actually will, but accepting your current state will help you so much in the long-run.

Meditate for as long as you need to. It might not help at first but give it a chance, it'll help more than anything I've recommended. I was able to cure myself of many anxieties and neuroses through meditation and acceptance.

This should help with your music career as well. Hope you succeed and hope you can heal yourself! Good luck and stop worrying, it's gonna be okay.

It's not unidentifiable. In fact, I already did it for you three months ago. It's almost certainly a Greek (aka spur-thighed) tortoise. If you see these spurs on his backside, it's a Greek tortoise.

I recommend you familiarize yourself with the care sheet from TortoiseForum. Here are the major points:

Substrate

The best possible substrates for housing Greek tortoises indoors are a 50/50 mix of top soil and play sand, cypress mulch and aspen wood shavings. (Personally I'd use cypress mulch instead of Aspen, since it's less likely to mold. NEVER use cedar.)

Food

Offer weeds such as Dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat's ear, wild strawberry, and thistle. Store bought greens like collards, mustards, kale and turnip can be offered sparingly. Commercial diets such as Mazuri are excellent for helping the tortoises maintain good weight but again should be offered only in moderation. (I can buy dandelion greens in the grocery store here. Also, since your tortoise has metabolic bone disease, a SERIOUS condition, be diligent in dusting all food with calcium powder with D3. D3 is something that you'd supplement occasionally in a healthy tort that gets lots of UVB. Yours has been starved of UVB, and therefore needs more D3 for a while.)

Water

A shallow water dish should be available to them at all times for drinking and soaking and should be changed frequently. Tortoises defecate in water so keeping the supply clean is a must.
They also appreciate occasional misting of their environment and may see it as rain. This prompts them to empty their bowels and drink. (Animals need water. A bit of a no-brainer.)

Lighting

When housing them inside, proper lighting is essential for keeping them healthy. Mercury vapor bulbs which provide both UVA and UVB are a personal favorite of mine. A 100-150 watt vapor bulb is installed on one end only of the indoor unit and this makes for a perfect basking area. The opposite end should remain cool. You can also use a regular spot light for the basking area so long as it reaches a temperature of 95-100F. In this case, a fluorescent UVB emitting bulb will need to be installed as well. (You should ALWAYS have a UVB bulb in your enclosure. Replace it every six months, or yearly if you use a mercury vapor bulb. NEVER use a coil-shaped bulb. These bulbs are a suitable replacement for coil-shaped ones.)

Housing

Indoors, the construction of a "tortoise table" will suit the needs of these creatures well. A 3 by 6 foot unit made of plywood will suffice for a single adult and up to a pair of adults. Wood is always recommended over plastic or glass so that the tortoises cannot see out. This way they will learn their boundaries and it will lessen their attempts to escape. (Don't keep them in glass aquariums. The ability to see outside without being able to go outside can stress your tort. They don't understand transparent glass, and will never learn how to deal with it.)

In addition to the caresheet excerpts above, I recommend you give your tort a good 20-minute soak in warm (not hot) water once a week. Captive torts are almost always mildly dehydrated. Soaking encourages them to drink. It also allows them to absorb water through their cloaca.

Finally, although this tortoise is easy to care for, it is a serious responsibility. Just as you can't feed a dog nothing but table scraps, you can't provide inadequate food and UVB to your tortoise. A bit of daily sunshine just isn't enough. If you're here seeking help for your animal, I can only hope it's because you want to put in the effort to rehabilitate him.

If you want to keep your tort, do your own research and learn how to make him happy and healthy. If it seems like too much responsibility, put him up on craigslist. Mention the soft shell in the ad, and that he's free to anyone with tortoise experience. You can tell who's qualified by asking just a few questions about how they intend to house and care for the tortoise.

It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.

My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!

Another male? Aspen is ok though carefresh or better yet (and certainly cheaper in the long run) fleece. You can just go to a Joann's or walmart or any hobby/sewing store and buy some fleece. Toss it in the wash as needed with an extra set in reserve. Cat food is what you should transition him to, high quality. I do blue buffalo cat food personally. It will last you a VERY long time. Hedgehog food is never as good for them as it should be. I will provide some amazon links for things you should probably get, the main one that you should but not quite have to if you have a room in the proper temp range is 72-80 degrees. Please come over to Hedgehogs Anonymous on Facebook request to join, then once you are in simply go to the files and take a look at them. I am a college student myself so I do my best to keep costs low though obviously start up costs will be high but after that its really quite cheap mostly (aside from possible vet visits).

Modular shelving can be the cage and gives him plenty of open room to roam and play around. This is the shelving I personally use and can vouch for. I have a 3x3 grid so 9 sq ft. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LGZOR6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the food I get for my Sophie. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU55KD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heating set up, again this is only if you need it and can keep the temp in the right range naturally. I dont know where you live so I do not know what your winters are like but if you get temps in the 50s or lower I do recommend it. Another preventative measure is to put the cage a foot or so off the ground, will actually keep your temps a few degrees higher than on the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHO6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ceramic Heat Emitter - Use this and NOT a heat light or something for reptiles, they need to have a period of darkness to be naturally awake 12/12 light on/off schedule All that the CHE does is emit heat, no light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CZ0J3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thermostat with a temp probe. Plug the CHE lamp into this and it automatically turns the CHE on and off to keep the temp in the right range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H200QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The lamp part to plug the CHE bulb into.

Hide - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mint Stick (it seems all hedgies love these things lol)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8Q5JTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

food dishes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040B9NOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are all the bare essentials aside from a wheel. I and most other people will recommend the Volcano View Hedgehogs bucket wheel or Carolina Storm bucket wheel.

I was just trying to be a thorough as possible without really leaving out anything. Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous on facebook. Everyone in the group absolutely loves helping everyone with a hedge. Any question that you may have can and will be answered fairly quickly. Most if not all members would recommend getting from a USDA certified breeder just so you know the full medical history of your baby and his parents. Its also generally cheaper as the cost from a breeder is generally around $200 though that depends on the coloring. I am by no means saying do not get him from your pet store you played with him at. I dont like pet stores having hedgehogs just because they are a more sensitive exotic animal that doesnt do well in a retail setting when you have to take care of hundreds of animals at once with high overhead. But if he is behaves well with you now then absolutely get him from there. He looks on the smaller side so hes pretty young.

Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous. Cant wait to see you and your baby on there. You could potentially take him home today with a cheap bin, simple fleece bolts and food and water dishs from what you have in your house and thatll last until the rest of your supplies are acquired.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/

For basking, you need a 60 Watt - A15 - Frosted - Appliance Bulb

For UVB you need a 5.0 UVB T5 HO Lamp, and here is the hood that it would fit into

They need to be cool at night, so no heat during the evening, good rule to go by, and if you're hit or miss, it's okay, 12 hours on and 12 hours off. OR, when you wake up, turn the lights on, and when you go to bed, turn the lights off. Because they're reptiles/cold blooded, their bodies need to slow down for sleep and repairing, just like what happens when we're sleeping.

There is a supplement schedule link in the side bar, which I'm putting here for you, it might be a bit confusing, but I think it will help you sort out the supplementing schedule a bit better. ARE YOU GUT LOADING THE FEEDERS??? And what are you gut loading them with?

I FINALLY got some Repashy, this is by far the best supplements you can give a cham, IMO. I used to use Herptivite and Repti-Cal with D3, but this is an all-in-one, and not only do I dust the feeders once a week with it, but when I am "gut loading" them, I also add it to the feeder's food.

I love the fogger! So kudos to you for that move. ;) Just an FYI for anyone else that might be reading this, a humidifier in the room that you keep your chams is good also. I'm actually using a Vick's humidifier that was made for us humans, but it's the same thing they sell for reptiles and is generally cheaper. It's a cool humidifier, not a hot one. You want cool (room temp) air, not warm.

I saw you did some responding to me, so going to post this to you and check on your other posts. ;)

I still can't figure out exactly what kind of turtle he is.

Here's my recommendations. Please keep in mind that this is based on 1) Never owning a turtle of this type 2) Assumptions that it is some kind of common musk turtle, and 3) Limited research. Do a lot of your own reading over the next few days and see if you come to the same conclusions regarding diet and habitat. Hopefully this will give you a place to start though. All prices in USD.

Tank - 40 gallon breeder. You could probably get away with a 20 gallon long, as they are a pretty small species. I like to give my critters pleanty of room to move around though. A breeder tank has more floor space (36" x 18" x 17") than a 40 gallon long, since they don't need a very deep habitat. You can usually get tanks like this for 1$ per gallon, so $40 here. Local aquarium store

I personally like Flourite for a substrate, it looks natural and turtles tend not to try to eat it for whatever reason. 1-2 bags of this at ~$15 a bag, lets call it $30. Make sure you rinse this stuff really good first! https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Fluorite-Red-Clay-Gravel/dp/B00GJX0E08 <-- should be the stuff, I got mine from a local aquarium store though.

Canister filter rated for around 35-40 gallons. I'm forgoing my earlier rule of a filter at least 2x the size of the tank for two reasons. One, from what I'm reading, they don't like strong currents. Two, you only want about 6" of water. I'm not sure if this is a good call, but it's what I would go with. Fluval 206 might work here, but it might also be too strong. You can play with the output though (place it below rocks or something) to dampen the flow. ~$100 https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4

36" T5 Terrarium Hood + T5 UVB 10.0 bulb - $50 for the hood, $25 for the light, change every 6 months. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8FR4/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HKO

Ceramic Heat Emitter + CHE Dome - $20 for the CHE, $15 for the Dome. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter/dp/B001F9CV7K/ https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Sun-Dome-Reptile-Lamp/dp/B001OS0SB8

Air pump - Optional, $30 or so plus some air line/air stone. https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-30-60-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B00IZLRK36

$300 total for brand new equipment, not shopping around or anything. If you pick up some of this used you can probably do better.

I would make about a quarter of it to one side a few inches out of the water for him to rest and bask, place the heat lamp over this area. You can use larger rocks to pile up here to get it out of the water. Basking area should be 85-90 F. Gradually slope this down into the rest of the aquarium. Give him about 6" of water off the bottom of the substrate to swim in and decorate this however you see fit.

http://www.insectivore.co.uk/pdf/common_musk_turtle_caresheet.pdf

Feeding should be pretty much what I said before. As /u/Ra_Cha_Cha said, they love movement. I had a box turtle too, and while she got used to the usual greens and pellets, nothing got her quite as excited as seeing a wiggling worm.

There are obviously tons of different options for basically everything, but I'll make a list of what I bought. In no particular order.

Tank - Any 40+ gallon long (36" by 18" floor space) tank works, or many people build 4' by 2' by 2' enclosures themselves from wood. This is what I have: http://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/terrariums/national-geographicandtrade-sanctuary-reptile-terrarium-5210603.html.

UVB light - By far the most used and best options are either Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% fluorescent tubes, 1/2 - 2/3 the length of the enclosure. Arcadia is hard to get in the US, so I have Reptisun. t5 is stronger so it doesn't have to be as close to the basking spot, has to be replaced every year rather than 6 months for the t8, and is generally better. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO.

UVB fixture - With t5 you don't need a reflector, t8 you do. Any normal fixture will work, but with the t8 it needs to be below the screen top. This is a good one for the t5 that can be hung and comes with a reflector: https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-904296-NanoTech-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359012&sr=1-5&keywords=sunblaster.

Heat lamp - Any large reptile heat lamp will be able to handle more watts and will have more balance than the smaller ones, but get whatever you need to get the correct temps.

Heat bulb - You don't need a reptile specific bulb, it just needs to heat well. I use halogen flood lights that give off lots of heat and can be dimmed with a lamp dimmer to adjust based on how hot the room is.

Substrate - Stay away from sand and other loose substrate, it can cause impaction and grow bacteria. Reptile carpets are fine but are hard to clean. You can use paper towels, but many people use either tile (my favorite, you can pick out textured tile and have a hardware store cut it for ~$10) or non-adhesive shelf liner.

Accesories - Any large flat object that absorbs heat works well as a basking spot. Water bowls raise humidity and are usually not used, so you don't need one. Many people get a hammock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359509&sr=1-1&keywords=reptile+hammock. For them to climb on.

Thermometers - The analog ones are terribly inaccurate, a digital one with a probe works well, I like temp guns though. This works well for me: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492359802&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+gun.

Food - You'll need calcium and vitamin powder. Rep-cal works well.
Calcium: https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00200-Phosphorous-Free-Ultrafine-Supplement/dp/B00BS96G1E.
Vitamins: https://www.amazon.com/HERPTIVITE-Multivitamin-reptiles-amphibians-Bottle/dp/B00076HT3S/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00076HT3S&pd_rd_r=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40&pd_rd_w=a2CFC&pd_rd_wg=axaiO&psc=1&refRID=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40.

Extra - Lamp dimmer if you have a light that works with it. Plug in timer so the lights stay on a consistent schedule.

Let me know if I forgot anything or if you have any more questions.

Turtles generally won't crawl out onto a basking area unless it's nice and sunny and warm. I use this $40 lamp for my turtle because it emits both UVB and heat, but it might be cheaper in the long run if you get separate UVB and heat lamps. I think the UVB-only lamp is ~$20.

This shell issue most likely started while he was in the store and not getting any UVB or heat, btw. :( It sucks, but it's awesome that you are asking for help and putting in the research time.

I highly recommend reading this sticky from /r/turtle, if you haven't already done so, and the section about shell rot on Austin's Turtle Page. My first turtle was a rescue with shell rot, and already had bone showing. She ended up losing some bits of shell, but was otherwise healthy after weeks of dry docking (forced basking), good diet, and iodine/silvadene.

Definitely get your little herp to a vet asap, and make sure you get everything a good turtle habitat needs. I hope he'll be okay!

Map turtles usually don't get as big as red eared sliders that you usually find in pet stores, but they do need large tanks. If he's already almost 3 inches long, I'd suggest getting a 40 gallon breeder tank. You will need a good filter, basking platform, good turtle food enriched with vitamins (I use ZooMed brand), a heater, and the correct lighting.

You are smart to wait until you have a tank set up before bringing him home, but just realize that this is a very long term commitment and the initial set-up will cost a lot more than you think!!

Turtles need both UVB and UVA light to grow healthy. The UVA will be a heat source for the turtle while the UVB will give the turtle much needed vitamins, just as if he were out in the sun. Don't trust any bulb that claims it gives off both UVA and UVB, you need two separate bulbs. I use this with my tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYDEARU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you have any other questions :)

Edit: Oh, and I wouldn't worry about the UV bulbs being bad for your skin. The rays can't penetrate through glass, so you should be fine if you're looking through the glass. Any short amount of time you do come in contact with it, I doubt it will affect you at all. You definitely won't get a sunburn from a few minutes xD

Are the green plants real or fake? If they're real, make sure it's something safe for them to eat in case he's been nibbling on it. Otherwise that's not a bad looking setup. The water dish is probably unnecessary but not likely to hurt anything. You probably want to move the UVB bulb over closer to the basking bulb so he's getting the UVB while basking, at least until you have a chance to replace it with the longer UVB bulb. As for the CHE at night, you really only need that if it's getting below 65 in the room at night.

What's his hotspot temps? It looks like you've provided him a basking area pretty close to the basking lamp so 150 watt might be a bit high. If you don't have one, I recommend getting a gun-style IR thermometer that you can use to take direct readings of his basking spot. If it's too hot or too cold it could also be impacting his appetite.

As for the UVB, you can't go wrong with a Reptisun 10.0. For that size tank you want to get the 22" long tube and an appropriate lamp for it. If you get the T5 instead of the T8 (this refers to the width of the tube) it will be strong enough that you can set it on top of the mesh like you've got the other lights, a T8 you'll have to mount inside the tank. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ on Amazon or you can usually find at local shops.

How old is the beardie? It's quite possible that relocation stress is to blame for his lack of appetite, though 7 days seems a little excessive. Good that you aren't handling him yet. Keep on offering him food, hopefully he'll come around and start eating! If you've verified temps are where they should be, may want to consider a vet visit soon to rule out health issues if he doesn't start eating soon.

He doesn't look too big, but some can grow really fast. This tank size may last you a couple months while you look for another. Supplies that you need ASAP are the UV light/Heater lamp and more water with filtration. When adding tap water remember to treat it with a dechlorinator that also gets rid of heavy minerals. If you're looking to save money on a tank, wait for a pet store nearby to have a dollar a gallon sale, or look locally for deals on used tanks w/ accessories on craigslist.

I recommended a thermometer for your water and basking area because particular species of turtles do better at different temperatures. I'm not sure what size that tank is but I'm guessing around 10-20g and would do well with a smaller heater. Your filtration should be rated 2-4 times the amount of water in your tank, and have 3 stages of filtration because they can be super messy.

P.S. If you know what size tank you have, and what you're planning to upgrade to I could recommend you some tank media that would work for you

Hi again!

I thank you once again for your help with my little critter, I do want the best for him :)

I was looking into the heat-thread you forwarded to me and I was wondering if you have an opinion on these two Domes (keep in mind it's a glass enclosure)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exo-Terra-PT2057-Light-Fixture/dp/B0041OU75O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458440532&sr=1-1&keywords=light+dome
And
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exo-Terra-PT2054-Reflector-Medium/dp/B0017JHHXQ

Or perhaps you have an even better solution?

I was thinking of using a 100W Halogen light with whichever Dome I purchase and use a dimmer to control the heat more accurately as well. :)

In addition to heat, Bearded Dragons (and many other reptiles) need a bulb which simulates certain different types of sunlight (basically, they need access to the full spectrum of light they'd get from the sun in their natural environment). Ultra-violet B (UVB) is one of these important types of light. Without it, your bearded dragon cannot metabolize calcium in order to grow.

Have you ever heard about how people need sunlight for their bones (namely, to create Vitamin D)? Bearded Dragons are the same way; they need this special type of light in order to create the vitamin which carries calcium into their bones and allows them to grow. Without it, their bodies will eventually start leeching their bones of calcium, and their bones will hollow-out and become porous, a condition known as Metabolic Bone Disease.

At the bare minimum, if price is an issue, I would buy a second lamp hood (~$15 USD) and put in one of these bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RHTYU/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1N3OJ3JLSUEJT&keywords=reptile+uvb+bulb&qid=1572426404&sprefix=reptile+uv%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7

Notice the bulb says 10.0 UVB; this means that about 10% of the light it puts off is going to be the useful kind for your dragon. You don't want to go any less than this.

In addition, you want to make sure that the Bearded Dragon's basking spot is at least 105-110F (41-43 C). You can get infrared temperature guns, or thermometers with probes that you can set in the basking spot. And buy a powdered supplement which contains both calcium and vitamin D3, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-Vitamin/dp/B000UJSUO4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=N0PJWYXNDPKZ&keywords=reptile+calcium+with+d3&qid=1572426942&sprefix=reptile+calcium%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

At this stage, about 80% of your bearded dragon's diet should be insects, powdered liberally with the calcium+D3 supplement at every meal (3 times/day). If you keep things going the way you are, your animal could very easily die from lack of nutrients/exposure to the correct spectrum of light.

Keep in mind, Bearded Dragons are adapted to live in the hot Australian Outback, very near to the equator. If you don't live in a similar environment, you need to do your best to recreate it in your home--that means high temperatures (with your basking bulb), and the correct ultraviolet light (UVB 10.0).

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Hey, great choice on turtle, I have a central american/ornate wood turtle too :) I'm a little concerned about your light though- turtles need UVB and heat lights. UVB lights need to be replaced about once a year, they are either mercury vapor bulb (which produces UVB+heat) and require a ceramic fixture, or they are flourescent (compact or straight and long, don't produce heat). If you use a flourescent UVB bulb you need a heat light too, like incandescent or halogen. Based on your post, it sounds like maybe you didn't have a UVB bulb? Or you originally bought a UVB bulb, but used it for years? The element in light bulbs that produces UVB stops producing it after about a year of use, which is why they need to be replaced even if they haven't burned out and are still giving off visible light.

This bulb produces UVB and visible light only (no heat)

This is an MVB bulb that produces UVB+heat

And if you use MVB you'll need a fixture like this

​

What kind of light are you using now? Are you monitoring the temperatures? It might not be hot enough if it's too far away.

​

Are you in the US? Is it cold where you are? I've been having a bit of a hard time keeping my wood turtle active in the winter when it gets cold. The species doesn't hibernate/brumate so they shouldn't get cold in the winter. I use a ceramic heat emitter to give him a bit of extra warmth, especially at night.

​

You probably should take him to an exotic vet for a checkup since he hasn't been eating or drinking. Turtles are usually voracious eaters, so not eating is a worry. Are his eyes clear? Does he have a runny nose or anything else physically that might be worrying?

Oh and to answer your question about the light lol, I use a single 400w HPS but plan to run a second 400w in flower for my current grow, 1 using an HPS bulb, another using an MH.

One MH (which my specific bulb covers a wide violet, blue, green, yellow spectrum) and one HPS high in red with some blue. The UVB from the MH is suppose to really enhance the frostiness of the flower, there's a myth to use MH the last 2 weeks when in reality it would be best added straight into flower, possibly right after the stretch ends and budding begins.

If I had to suggest to you, I'd go with HPS + LED, HPS for dense, pretty frosty buds and LED to provide them with the rest of the color temps they desire for full potential.

T5s would work fine along with the HPS too, most use reptile bulbs for UVB supplementing alongside their HPS.

I'm not sure, because there isn't much information on the internet about it, but I bought this guy, well actually three of them.

I put them in a standing lamp that takes three bulbs and spend about 15 minutes a day in front of them.

I did a little research and the UVB wavelength, that the bulb emits the most of, is right in the sweet spot for psoriasis from what I have read.

I've been using it for a few months and I feel like it helps somewhat.

If anyone has any evidence that this is a terrible idea I'd love to hear it.

Thanks! I've been checking on him a lot, but not going into the enclosure, and he's more colorful now and less dark. The stress lines on his stomach are 90% gone. I put that MVB (thanks for identifying it for me!) on top of the mesh on the cage, so it's about an inch closer, and he seems to be liking it more (less "squished frog" basking and more "look at m proud beard" basking).

The sand is like a really hard, packed sand...I'm not sure if it was a mix of something that they set up at first, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to set it up to be tile inside his new home, leaving the option for a "bioactive" setup at some point once I know more about what he needs and am used to his requirements and behaviors and stuff.

For that lamp fixture, does the size have to match absolutely? I found this Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"
bulb on Amazon with Prime, but it's 2" shorter than the fixture. Would that matter? (Sorry, I've got zero experience with lighting fixtures...I just change the bulbs in my house for my silly Human requirements).

With the salad, right now we're trying the "paper towel trick" but also leaving some in his bowl. No bites yet, but I'll wait until he's been here for a couple of weeks before I start worrying more then.

Thanks, /u/thepienosaur!

I don't have much experience with the use of heat lamps with birds (but they use them with chicks and ducklings, so I can't imagine there's a real negative to them), but I have some knowledge of heat lamps in general (from reptile ownership).

An infrared heat lamp is a ceramic heat bulb, which works just like an incandescent but is a ceramic bulb that puts off no light and only emits heat. They last quite a long time, but are pretty expensive.

You can also go down the incandescent route, using a bulb that's of a low light spectrum that provides heat, but doesn't really put off a lot of light or, rather, light that the animal can see. These can also be called "infrared". These are usually red or purple/black incandescent bulbs. They aren't the most efficient of heat sources, but are relatively cheap and accessible. If you go this route, I highly recommend going for the purple/black bulbs. They put off far less light and only emit a moonlight-esque glow. The red bulbs are just that, a glaring red light in the room, which can be annoying.

Both the infrared and incandescent act just like any other bulb, and can be put into a metal dome fixture (that can handle the wattage of the bulb) that can be hung over the cage. I would recommend against having it clamped onto the cage itself. Of course, you never want him to actually have any way to make physical contact with the bulb either. Keep that in mind when determining wattage. Further away from the cage will need a higher wattage bulb.

UVA/UVB bulbs are fluorescent bulbs. Usually you find them for reptiles, and they are long tubes that go into a fishtank-esque strip fixture. However, you can also find them as compact fluorescent bulbs that you can use in other lighting fixtures. These aren't meant to put off heat, but rather to simulate sunlight to prevent deficiencies.

If you're looking for both heat and UVA/UVB lighting, then you'll have to go the mercury vapor bulb route. These can be quite expensive, but will provide the best of both worlds.



TL;DR:

infrared ceramic heat bulb = heat, no light. Perfect for keeping on all the time.

infrared incandescent heat bulb = heat, some light. Can be kept on all the time.

UVA/UVB fluorescent bulb = no heat, sunlight replacement. Should only be kept on during the day.

mercury vapor UVB bulb = heat and sunlight replacement. Should only be kept on during the day.


hope this helps!

I would ditch those pellets as substrate and get yourself some slate tile. You can find it at almost any hardware store. You may have to cut some pieces with a tile cutter or wet saw to get them to fit the whole enclosure. You could also just use newspaper or paper tiles if you don't care about asethics.

I would say the most important things is to make sure he has the correct diet, temps and UVB lighting.For a baby you want the basking spot to be at least 105°f and cool side to be around 80°f. Reptisun 10.0 t5 for the UVB source is highly recommended but you can go with a quality mercury vapor bulb that also doubles as a basking bulb. Make sure to use a quality calcium/vitamin dust for the feeders and don't forget to gut load your feeders too.

The poo looks like normal poo to me. You can always find a herp vet that is close and do an initial checkup, they are usually pretty cheap for a wellness check ($40-$80).

Oh and some other important things:

1. You need a UVB light. You need to have one in addition to the heat lamp. So that's two lights, over the basking dock: heat and UVB. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Repti-Glo-Compact-Fluorescent-Tropical-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371446755&sr=8-1&keywords=UVB+light
   
   
2. More water! Every inch of water means so much, when your turtle just lives in a tank, ya know? I HIGHLY recommend that you get a screen for the top of your tank. You will be able to raise the water higher without having to worry that your turtle can escape. Also, it's just safer to make sure your turtle can't climb out at all anyway. Screen: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=aquarium+screen&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aaquarium+screen
   
   I included those links just so that you can see how inexpensive these things are, and they are things you actually need, unlike the expensive gravel. UVB is genuinely a must. Your turtle will be much safer with a screen and much happier with a higher water level.

(with your current tank, make sure this is maintained)

Air Temperature:  75° - 83°

Basking Temperature:  Mid 80's to low 90's

Water Temperature: Mid to High 70's

-these numbers are specific to your musk turtle

You may buy an infrared heater to help keep these temperatures optimal.

​

Your turtle also needs a basking area (provided links to some nice and cheep bulbs and mount

Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

REPTIZOO Dual Lamp Fixture for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWKXYPP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Keep in mind these turtles are very infrequent baskers but need to do so sometimes, so keep the basking area to a large rock he can climb up on.

​

I cant stress this enough, you need a strong filter for musk turtles. They are messy eaters and will end up compromising their own safety if the water isn't cleaned and filtered well. They will spend most of their time in the water so make sure they have ample area to swim. Razorback musk turtles are also very shy, so give him some areas to feel safe in the water.

​

Besides from that google some caresheets about razorback musk turtles and adjust my recommendations accordingly. If you have anymore questions please let me know :D

So I'm a first-time grower, ambient temperatures are currently in the 50s, and what I'm (about to be) doing is somewhat unconventional. I'm offering it as an idea but I'm also hoping to get some critical input. Right now I've got grain jars (destined for a monotub) colonizing on my dresser, using a 1500W space heater to keep my entire room around 80F when I'm home. This isn't my long-term plan, though.

I was considering a heat pad, controlled by a thermostat, but I was concerned about overheating the bottom of the substrate. For all I know, these fears may be completely unfounded, so shroomers feel free to call me an idiot. Anyway, here's what I'm doing instead. (Same idea for heating both my spawn jars and my mono.)

I purchased the following:

• Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand, Full Size
  
• Fluker's Sun Dome Reptile Lamp - Large Deep Dome Fixture
  
• BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter
  
• Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat & Habitat Lighting Temp. Controller, 500W
  
  The idea is to have a 150W ceramic heat emitter suspended above the tub (or tray of jars). Direct radiant heat is apparently not good for our friends, and I don't know how well a transparent polypropylene lid will absorb the IR, so I'll toss some cotton garments on top of the lid to absorb the heat and conduct it gently into the tub. The thermostat's sensor will be embedded in the substrate, and I'll use temperature strips placed at various points to "calibrate" it.
  
  Given that this will be in a confined closet and the heat will be focused on my grow, I'm hopeful that 150W will be enough, at least to reach a decent fruiting temperature. And I figure this solution will be gentle on the little guys, won't dry the air, and won't pose a fire hazard. But I haven't heard much about people going this route, which leads me to wonder if there's a flaw I've failed to consider...
  
  Edit: MY IDEA SUCKS. In the close confines of my closet, the 150W bulb didn't take long to start melting the lid of my tub. I went and bought a $40 radiator at Home Depot like a normal human being.

Eyy! My time to shine! I have a red eared slider in a 150 gallon plywood aquarium I built. For filtration, I would recommend a Fluval Fx-5 or 6. You want at least 2 times your gallonage in filtration. For lighting fixtures, get some good reflective domes with ceramic sockets. I've had great luck with these ones from Exo Terra. Now for lighting, you will need a source of UVA and UVB as well as heat. The UV light is needed for calcium absorbtion. Without it, their shells will become very unhealthy and it may kill them. The best way to accomplish this is with a Mercury Vapor Bulb such as that one. If the bulb doesn't supply enough heat for the open topper, you will need a Ceramic Heat Emitter. You will likely need a heater for the water. DO NOT USE A GLASS HEATER! Use one with a metal body such as this one. A turtle's shell could break a glass heater and electrocute them. Please note that red eared sliders can climb pretty well, so you will likely need a cover for the basking area. Also, if the turtle is female, please make sure they have a nesting box available. They are easy to put together and with out it, the turtle could become egg bound and die. For substrate (Material at the bottom) avoid gravel. Turtles tend to eat it and it can also potentially kill them. I use a heavy filtration sand instead. It's heavy enough where the filter will be unable to pick it up for the most part. If you have any other questions, please ask away!

Nicrew is a good choice. I’ve had GREAT success with them in vivariums and pretty good in aquariums. Currently I’m messing around with a 2.5 gallon tank and I’ve been using the small version of this

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-PT2336-Night-Fixture/dp/B00JDRMT8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=exo+terra+led&qid=1566949256&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Alright! So that fixture itself isn't bad, but the UVB bulb that is in there probably isn't great. There is a bunch of research that suggests those coil style UVB bulbs aren't great for our beardies and don't cover the tank in enough UV. This hood is what we use along with this bulb. This light should be on during the day and turned off at night. General consensus is at least 12 hours on. That hood may come with a bulb already, but if it does, it's probably the 5.0 which isn't strong enough for bearded dragons. That why I gave the link to the 10.0 version. This bulb should be replaced once a year even if still illuminates, as the capacity to produce UV diminishes after about a year.

The other thing in the fixture may be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). If it just generates heat but no light, then that is what that is. You really only need that if the tank temperature drops below 75-70 degrees F. Make sure not to use any red or any lights at night as bearded dragons can see color and it will disrupt their sleeping.

Finally, it sounds like you don't have a basking light. Even though your house stays pretty warm, beardies still need a basking spot of around 105 degrees F. In the now empty spot where your old UVB bulb was, you can use one of these. Some people just use flood lights from Home Depot or elsewhere, just make sure it's not an LED one. You can use this light dimmer to control the light output to get the basking spot to the correct temperature. I would recommend this infrared temperature gun to check for the correct temperatures during the day and at night.

Lighting is one of the biggest things for bearded dragons and can take some time to get set up correctly. It's good to ask questions and research! I still learn new things about beardies all the time. I'll get pictures of our setup tomorrow and show you. I would tonight, but our babies are already sleeping!

One last thought, as some others have said, if you have an exotic vet nearby, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have Ember checked over. They can check for parasites or other issues before they become a problem.

My knowledge about heat lamps comes from keeping our tortoises, and we use a mercury vapor lamp bulb. This is the type we use https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Vapor-Light-Reptile-Amphibian/dp/B01CRJXJZ4 not this brand specifically, but this type. It's a screw socket type, and it's been used with a regular desk lamp, as well as it fits into a dedicated socket in the tortoise's enclosure. These give our UVB and UVA, so if your cats aren't getting a lot of sun tan in, this may or may not help. But it's really good for heat as the bulb gets really hot.

This article gives an overview of providing heat for tortoises, but it's a good run down of heat sources. Some might be helpful for what might suit for your cats http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/heating.html

You know, I've taken the bulb from a fixture and put it in another fixture in the exact location and gotten temps as much as 30F higher. The small domes that are white on the inside seem to give out the least heat. This beauty gives out a lot of heat. It also depends on the room temperature - I have to adjust bulbs when the seasons change because my basking spots will rise or drop a significant amount. My indoor temps rarely go below 80 (my lizards' tanks heat my apartment!) and even in the winter, I only have to use a 75 watt bulb at most (in 40 gallon and bigger tanks). It's just a trial and error thing. If you can't leave the dome fixture on top of the lid safely, then investing in an adjustable lamp stand is probably the way to go. Grabbing a rheostat/dimmer does make it easier to adjust temps.

The height of your basking spot should be ~8 inches from the UVB bulb, so that your beardie can get to about 6 inches of the bulb. Then you figure out how to get the temps in the basking spot to where they should be by lowering/raising the basking fixture or changing bulbs or whatever.

In case you aren't aware, pine and cedar are both toxic to beardies, and one of our member's beardies recently had an issue that appears to have been due to super glue being used on a basking platform. Make sure your materials are reptile friendly. :)

I bought this bulb, not sure of the details but it's allegedly a 6500k. Is this an ok one?

I don't use PayPal, unfortunately, but I see lovely stuff there! Thanks :)

Good question. I have actually thought about this issue myself.. while there are commercial options to raise or lower your lights, there are several simple solutions you might want to try.

​

One that comes to mind is creating a lamp stand. This serves two purposes, to both lift the lights up as well as move them off of the tank to help prevent the lights from possibly falling into the tank.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxN8_0kNJPc

​

It does have its downfalls though, mainly being that it's ugly. Painting it black will make it less noticeable.

​

Another option is making an ATBA (Above Tank Basking Area). If you look those up, there are a bunch of ideas on how to make one. It's what the name suggests: a basking area that is built to bring the turtle out of the top of the tank. This maximizes swimming space and can provide a large basking area, all cheaply if you DIY it.

​

Another option I like and use is the Fluker's dimmable light. You can use it for your heat lamp. Since it is ceramic, it will handle the heat lamp, and with the dimmer, you can adjust how strong your heat lamp is. I have been using this light with a heat lamp for several months now without issue.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC

​

I know it's a lot to think about, but eventually you will want to give your turtle a larger home, and more swimming space.. so looking into these things little by little now will make the decisions later on easier to handle, rather than all at once.

​

Cheers!

I am currently using a UVA/UVB pair of bulbs, but will upgrade to a single florescent bulb soon. What I believe they were referring to is this. It provides a bit more UVA and heat. For my UVB, I have a CFL 5.0 bulb. The combo is OK, but it still "beams" light just a bit too hard. I know how to prevent burns with this setup, so it's totally fine for now.

70F is on the lower end so no less than that. Outside temperature has little effect on what spectrum of light is being put out by the sun, however. As long as its not too cold, the Cham will benefit from getting full-spectrum and natural lighting. (For those paying attention, yes. The lighting spectrum does change through the seasons, but it's only a thing for photosensitive plants.. Not necessarily animals.)

The heat lamp is fine but will probably blow rather quickly. I’d suggest that when I dose blow to get halogen flood lights from Walmart. They are normally 45 to 50 watts and in my experience heat much better and last longer.

The UVB bulb is a different story. Since it is focused on one spot it is not good. It can damage eyes from over exposure (the eyes are a very sensitive organ, which is why it’s to powerfully for eyes and not powerful enough in general) and it doesn’t emit enough uvb for a bearded dragon.

12 hours of artificial uvb equals about 2 hours of natural uvb. Beardie can be fine with this amount of uvb. However with a coil bulb if your dragon decides to hang on the cool side, they aren’t getting that 12 hours. One or two days of this won’t hurt but over time it can cause a medical disease called Metobolic Bine Disease. Which will basically turn bones into rubber.

this is the bulb you want

You’ll need a separate fixture for it. It can go intop if the screen because it’s t5 (Em It’s stronger UVB then t8s)

You can pick up and under the counter fixture met for led lights from Walmart or a hardware store or go with the fixture specifically met for reptiles. If you do the latter make sure the fixture you get is for the t5 bulb. T8 bulbs will not fit in t5 fixtures and vice versa.

It might help to get a longer tube one that would go almost the entire length of the tank, that way he is able to still get uvb light on the cool side.

It might also be worth looking into a Mercury Vapor bulb, they put out a lot of UVB light and I have heard they can help with MBD, don't get one from a pet store though, they are super expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494350837&sr=8-4&keywords=mercury+vapor+bulb

$100 in a pet store versus $40 on amazon, they are robbers.

Direct sunlight won't get the basking area hot enough, and glass filters out UVB so it won't get any UVB if the tank was near a window or something. It's not too expensive to get a heat lamp for them, you just need one of those reptile clamp lamps with a ceramic top (you could technically use any other fixture, but the ceramic ones dissipate heat better) and put a regular incandescent light bulb in there. I use a 55w flood light a few inches from my basking platform and it measure 94F at the hottest spot. Depending on the distance from the basking area you might want to go with a higher wattage bulb. I use just a regular floating aquarium thermometer to check the temperature on the basking platform. Turtles are cold blooded so they need to be able to warm up and cool down as they please, and drying off helps them avoid shell rot. They need UVB as it helps a lot with calcium production/intake.

As far as UVB bulbs go, I use these.

If it's 10 years old and 5-6" it's most likely a male.

A 10 gallon aquarium would work well for probably the first year and they are cheap can probably get one for $20. Eventually you will need a very large tank 75+ gallons.

Below are the things I think are a must

1. Good quality food (I wouldn't trust the food they gave you) get the tetra reptomin pellets
   
   
2. UVB light bulb I use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fYgaBb9FJH9QF you need a new one every year these are important for good bone health.
   
   
3. Basking light I use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR3NU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XZgaBb1DA9VW9
   
   
4. So sort of out of the water basking area is a requirement get creative, tons of diy solutions on line.
   
   
5. Water heater size depending on the tank you get probably $15-40 get a cheap sick on water thermometer.
   
   
6. Filter I would get a canister filter I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIXCI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L1gaBb57EQ739 been using it for 6+ years. This thing is too big for a 10 gallon but if you decided to get a 20, 30 it should be okay and I am using mine in a 75 gallon with plans to move to a 125 in a few weeks.
   
   
   This site http://redearslider.com has tons of good information.
   
   Check the water and basking area temperatures to make sure they aren't too hot or too cold.

If you're changing out the bulbs every 6 hours, theres a problem. It should be daytime for ~12 hours a day and then switch to nighttime. If you are switching out the daytime bulb for a nighttime bulb, then I would just not use the nighttime bulb (darkness works just as well as a nighttime bulb). Getting a timer of some sort is extremely convenient for this. A christmas light timer works, or you can look at reptile specific timers if you want one that turns on your nighttime bulb in another lamp.

Your daytime bulb most likely provides heat and UVA rays (you mentioned earlier it says UV, which means UVA). What it does not provide is UVB rays. There are some lightbulbs that provide all 3, but are extremely powerful, and therefore not suitable for home use. Since these bulbs aren't feasable, you're going to want a 2nd bulb for UVB.

My recommendation is to use your daytime bulb for ~12 a day on a timer. I wouldn't bother with the nighttime bulb, it doesn't add anything. You should try to grab a 2nd lamp and UVB bulb soon, but its not an emergency or anything. Your turtle will survive without UVB, but be at much higher risk of shell rot and infection.

When you get a chance, grab a 2nd lamp and a UVB bulb. The 5 and 10 fluorescent ones like this are good. I use (and really like) a double dome lamp - and have the heat bulb in one and the UVB bulb in the other.

Needs some more decoration and stimulation for the dragon! Give it more places to hang out in. The double lamp will be okay for a little while, but I highly recommend you get a large basking lamp for the warm side and a UVB tube (reptisun 10.0) that covers the rest of the tank so there's nowhere that the light isn't covering. Also, the hammock definitely should be raised a bit, if it's on the floor there's really no point in it. Finally, get another, perhaps bigger bowl. You should have one for worms and one for a salad every day. A water bowl is optional.

Overall, about a 5/10. It's a good starting place.

Link for reptisun: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2BN7HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jJKBzbR93V32J
(The actual hood for this could be found at a pet store or online, I got mine at petco)

The hood I use for my basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OS0SB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nKKBzb8KP9T4W

My basking bulb itself (or at least similar enough to it): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRJXJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ILKBzb8CFDQNE

Oh boy urgh, rooted through the trash and found what I wiped up, there was urates in it. Every piece of matter other then the large urate I found was brown and smelt of snake poo (trying to remember the snake poo smell from last time)

Some other news that might make you happy face, I ordered

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/ better substrate
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EI1II4/ better day/night
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCL4/ equal sized mat for the cool side

Thank you for your reply. For now, I will be using the enclosure linked above as it is already on it's way. I was given advice to purchase these items for UVB lighting hood lamp do those look ok to you?

In terms of heat lamp, you can see the one I have from my previous post

Thanks again for your detailed response. I am going to read it over a few times and allow all of it to process, along with the sidebar info :)

this is my amazon cart, good to go?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOBZT80/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1P1I67XNH4UOJ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8F2O/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YKHLMXRLPQLV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8HAO/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I've been getting sooo many different opinions on lighting and feeding... I appreciate the help!

I ordered this screen on Amazon. I’m sure you could find something at a hardware store. The ones I got are pretty sturdy, they don’t really bend and would be hard to cut. If you wanted to use zip ties you might look for something a little thinner.

For heat I use a 100w ceramic heat emitter in this dome lamp. CHEs work best with dimming or pulse proportional thermostats like Herpstats which are expensive. I was able to find an Exoterra version that was less expensive, but still more than an on/off thermostat.

Oh, and if you use tape anywhere for the screen, make sure it’s on the outside only. No adhesive inside. :)

I bought this fixture: Carolina Custom Cages Reptile 22" T5HO UVB Standard Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2AY8EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yf-RCbHW2G32F

Any recommendations for bulbs that would work for growing and not blind my ball python? I see lots of fluorescents that would fit but I'm not sure if they'd be too bright or grow plants. Thanks!

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

Have you read any of the care sheets online and on the sidebar regarding these things?

If you're using bulbs, go with ceramic heat emitters. They dont emit light, and can be used 24/7 to maintain heat without disturbing sleep.

It would be a good idea to get a heat lamp that has a dimmer built in so that you can scale how much power is going to the bulb. Like this

You will also need thermometers, hygrometers, and thermostats.

Hi, thanks for watching out for us! He's got these lights as well as living in this [cage] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J0VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419894029&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40). I'll try to get pics for y'all! Anything else we need for this guy? Thanks!

Edit: I'll let you know the light strength when my gf gets home.

Great thanks. Tomorrow, I'm going to the pet store. What should I get in terms of things to put in his tank like a branch, etc. And another light because this (what he has now) doesnt make it warm enough, i dont think. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Combo-Deep-Fixture/dp/B005KPMCPG/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169875&sr=8-11&keywords=Bearded+dragon+uvb+light

And of course, the sand will come out for tile.

Am i forgetting anything else?

Your girlfriend is wise!

I've seen most people mount light fixtures of the under-cabinet variety from hardware stores inside of the tank on the back wall, keeping sure that the beardies can't reach it via other cage furniture.

I've ordered a fixture that will fit the Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 bulb: http://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B00K2AY8EW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

This mother effer is so light that it can be mounted FROM THE SCREEN using zip ties through the mesh. I'm excited to see if it works this way.

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3sQCb1SPVYGA

That's the bulb you want

Carolina Custom Cages Reptile 22" T5HO UVB Standard Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2AY8EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_84sQCb5VM0G0F

That's a good fixture for it, or you could go with a Reptisun brand fixture. Be aware that the free bulb included with the reptisun fixture is a 5.0 and you need a 10.0 bulb, so either way you'll be purchasing the bulb itself. T5 it's the way to go in my opinion because it could be mounted inside the enclosure or on top of a screen top. T8 sized bulbs need to be mounted inside.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-SZMLT10-Repti/dp/B007EI1II4
these are pretty good, anything that looks like this dial wise is usually not a problem.

Two weeks is a little long, I personally wouldn't want any of my beardies going without UVB for more than a week.
He should be okay but I'd try and take him outside in a large tub so he can get UVB, preferably 70+ in temps.

https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523586973&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+ho+fixture
^ 34" T5 HO Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26062-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HKO&pd_rd_r=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&pd_rd_w=GIi1G&pd_rd_wg=oAEwd&psc=1&refRID=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&dpID=31QDwNV8eSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
^ 34" T5 HO 10.0
This should be cheaper, fixture wise. I use this brand of fixture for almost all my reptiles but in the 46" version since I prefer the UVB to go the entire length of my 75 gallons for the beardies. Do know that you will need to replace the UVB bulb every 6-12 months.

Also know that if your dragon is below a year or two old your most likely going to be spending 47 dollars every three weeks or every month for around 2,000 large crickets, of course this is just an estimate as if you go with medium or small depending on the size of your beardie it may be less. And of course if you decide to feed a different staple feeder like roaches, black soldier fly larvae, locusts, grasshoppers or silkworms.


Assuming you mean the bulb rather than a heat lamp fixture. Its basically a ceramic heat emitter, its made out of ceramic and produces only heat and no light which is very good for reptiles, especially reptiles like beardies who see in color. Most people buy those miss-titled "infrared" heat lamps thinking their dragon can't see it but they actually can which often keeps them from getting a full rest and can lead to future problems.

Its only a necessity if your temps in the enclosure drop below 65 during the night.

I ordered my stuff off amazon (huzza %5 back!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B209YQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8HKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Working great for my setup, but as always YMMV.

Good on you for responding to your beardies health needs! Keep up the vigilance!

I highly recommend the lamp setup, it's set-and-forget. Here's the dimmable clamp lamp: Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3zWMAbNC0YH2F you will also need an incandescent heat bulb or ceramic heat emitter.

Other methods I have tried to varying success: place small amounts in a tray in a toaster oven to keep warm, then remove the tray as necessary. Have even tried coffee cup warmers for portable sculpting (totally melts the bottom, but works).

Sorry, I know your original question was about solvents--I have never used any on monster clay and I asked the cashier of a mold supply store once if there were any and he said he had no idea, as it wasn't really done. Sometimes its a painstaking matter of raking an area, looking at it from a ton of angles, rinse repeat. Some imperfections are way easier to just sand out after you cast the mold.

Mercury vapors are really nice when you combine heat and UVB. I love Mega Ray brand.

The only disadvantage is it is not dimmable, so it is hard to fine tune the heat and to manage you have to move basking spot up or lamp down.

Myself I use T5 HO bulbs like this for UVB

An lensed flood halogen from Home Depot for heat. Halogens are dimmable and nice. With automation project I am doing now I plan to put them on dimming relays and fully automate day/night cycle.

Java ferns, java moss, and anubias are low light plants that don't require special substrate and prefer to grow anchored to submerged drift wood. Even without the wood, they'll grow in aquarium sand but just be sure not to bury the rhizome (the base of the plant that the leaves come out of). Other plants will be more demanding of nutrients in the substrate, but you can use things called root tabs to make it work. I would recommend using organic potting soil and "capping" it with sand, but that might be out of reach if your tank is already established.

]

I'm not sure anything will grow with a 2W LED in a 20g tank. I'm using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQA8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for a ten gallon and it's working great for low to medium light plants, but you would be looking at something more powerful for a twenty gallon.

]

Here is a guide that really helped me a lot as far as lighting goes.
http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/planted-aquarium/low-tech-planted-tank-guide/ You also may not need to use fertilizers with just a few low light plants.

I keep my turtle tank bare because they can create a lot of waste but if you want to spruce it up a bit you can add some river rocks! Make sure to wash them a bit since they are a slightly dusty

Exo Terra Turtle Pebbles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035HD408/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZMODb2Y843TK

Also I dunno if Tuck has a uvb or heat bulb? He'll need those to properly shed and prevent metabolic bone disease

This is what I have for my girl

Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle UVB Heat Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYDEARU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g7MODb4DVDTNA

Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255OUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99MODbSNSH1X9


Hygger Submersible Aquarium Heater, Adjustable Fish Tank Heater Compact Reliable Betta Heater, Heat-Resistant Milky Quartz Made, with External Temp Controller, 50W/100W/300W, 7-60 Gallon (300W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4BKPHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f.MODbB3P6Q26

I hope this helps you out!

Reptihabitat kit $154 and that's overpriced considering how much of the stuff in it you'll just throw away. You can get a 20 long and a folding screen top from Petsmart for about $50 and the 2 light dome for another $50.

https://www.petsolutions.com/C/Reptile-Habitats/I/Zoo-Med-ReptiHabitat-Bearded-Dragon-Kit.aspx?catargetid=520009670000580654&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac2ZBedmIdyBdq_7s09x4txgNz-FvlD5uiNVmX3KfTKu4lo9XpjanfBoCGVUQAvD_BwE

14" t5 hood $38.80

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium/dp/B00M9ONY1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887235&sr=8-1&keywords=14%22+t5

Half log $8.60

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Habba-Extra-Large/dp/B0010ONMV4/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-7&keywords=reptile+hide

Hide XL $25.98

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Extra-Large/dp/B0002AR5BA/ref=sr_1_21?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-21&keywords=reptile+hide

12" t5 10.0 Bulb $20.77

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1DY82E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=9dlUL&pf_rd_r=5FMKXWA2ASD8TY18EGDD&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00N1DY82E&pd_rd_w=bTBUC&pf_rd_i=14%22+t5&pd_rd_r=GGP34DN67RR24AP1GD50&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887808&sr=2

Everything you see here can be had for $248.15 brand new. As soon as you walk out the door of the pet store, that stuff is worth less than half that. Also considering that this setup is not going to work for an adult and it becomes even less desirable. If I were looking to sell this setup I would sell on craigslist and consider myself extremely fortunate to get $100 for it all.

Awesome idea! I looked around and found this http://www.amazon.com/Lights-America-7020GL-24-Inch-Undercabinet/dp/B008DGCKKG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1394598697&sr=8-9&keywords=24watt+light+fixture Thing is I am not sure how to figuire out if the bulb would fit in there. I was looking at this http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Trichromatic-Daylight-Fluorescent/dp/B0002AQA8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394598781&sr=8-1&keywords=6500k+light+bulb+24inch Do you think it would be compatible?

For UVB I use Reptisun 10.0, manufacturer recommends replace yearly (UVB stops working long before bulb burns out) but I replace every 6 months. For heat lamps you can use any bulb (not LED) from the hardware store, but I like these ReptiTuff Splashproof basking lamps. The glass is super thick to avoid shattering when your aquatic turtles splash it with water.

Oh, now I see. So https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502513545&sr=1-3&keywords=ReptiSun+10.0 would be better in the long run? And would it better to mount it above the cage then or just possible to do so? (sorry that sentence was a bit confusing)

It's okay! Take a deep breath. :) The plastic concern is about the socket that the bulb screws into, inside of the dome. If the socket is plastic, you'd need a different dome fixture, not a different tank.

I suggested a chick brooding fixture because I figured you probably have access or Tractor Supply or a feed store, but if not that's no problem. They sell them at hardware stores too. Here is an example from Home Depot. It doesn't specifically have to be this.

Here's an example of a ceramic bulb

If the tank lid / screen is plastic, I do not know if you can put the dome directly on the lid, sorry. I would clip or hang the fixture so it isn't sitting directly on the tank if you can. This will also make it easier to open the lid.

Looks like you’ve got a real nice setup there. As far as lighting goes you’ll need the normal heat and UVB bulbs. You could probably use a 50-75w bulb for heating and similarly sized UVB bulb (13w 5.0 I believe). Something like this would give you everything in one package:


https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Turtle-Lighting/dp/B00CYDEARU

Both myself and my boyfriend use the 26-watt Exo Terra Repti-Glo UVB bulbs. Because the UVB light should be positioned over the basking area, I don't think the size of the tank is relevant when it comes to wattage (if I'm incorrect, someone please feel free to correct me).

Make sure your turtles also have a heat bulb! I use a 100 watt Exo Terra Basking Bulb for my little guy. It's splash resistant, which is important with aquatic turtles, so you aren't replacing bulbs every time one gets wet.

Both types of bulbs need replaced approximately every 6 months, because they start losing their efficacy.

Okay. Thank you. So would a bulb like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=uvb%2Breptile%2Bbulb&qid=1568919448&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1

upvote for visibiity but id recommend the less concentrated bulbs. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8GF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting. So do you think you can combine thing like this:

• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-10-0-Lamp/dp/B00AQU8HAO
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Twin-Pack-Aluminium-Reflector-Increased-output/dp/B00K837M8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539871637&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=t5+reptile+reflector
  
  • i guess that just clips to the tube
    
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wattlite-Slimline-Fluorescent-Complete-Diffuser/dp/B00IQRMR1E/ref=sr_1_5?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1539872088&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+fitting
  
  • (obviously not using that tube)
    
    What do you think?

Okay, the cage size is a bit small if you're getting a male, an 18x18x36 would be better. But I also have one that size that I use while they are 3-5 months old. When I am not using it that way I keep it in my car with a couple vines so I can take one out to a park or to the vet if needed.
The plant seems to be taking up a bit too much room, what type of plant is it? I prefer pothos because it's ivy that require very little care and you can shape them around your vines. If the plant is safe you may be good just pruning some leaves off to open the cage up a bit however.
go to a hardware store and get yourself a regular 10" dome light, shouldn't cost but around 10 bucks and put a cheap incandescent light bulb in it, somewhere around 70 watts, depending on the temperature in your house. also get yourself a shop light fixture, but not this one that you can find a 5.0, not 10 uv light. keep in mind those are examples of what to look for, not exactly what you should buy, as they wont fit together.

Sure! The bulb I use 13 W Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472851211&sr=8-1&keywords=exo+terra+uvb+100

And a 5.5 inch dome lamp, the brand doesn't matter. This fluker's one is nice though cause it has a dimmable switch! https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1472855742&sr=8-18&keywords=reptile+lamp

They make ceramic heat emitters that cost ~$6 and are rated to last at least 10-15x longer than an incandescent bulb so cheaper per hour. They're compatible with existing sockets, they don't disrupt sleep cycles, and they're commonly waterproof and shatter resistant. Infrared is also more effective at warming animals as it penetrates the skin more rather than just warming the air.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHO6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CpBCDb00BYAY5

I like the Fluker's ceramic IR bulbs. I've got one that's probably 7 or 8 years old and no signs of crapping out. (I'm pretty sure that's the brand I have, anyway. The packaging looks right.)

Walmart doesn’t sell uvb lights, but you can get them on amazon for very cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFROMQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542613444&sr=8-2&keywords=uvb+reptile+light+18+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=516RwVfneQL&ref=plSrch

I’m on mobile, but I usually get them for under 15, but you want something like this.

Fluker's Ceramic Heat Emitter 100 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHO6S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AVjbvb0AP9PCN

Zeus and hades each have one of these
They work very well. :)

I also have a UVB light bulb in a clamp light attached to the cage, that's plugged into an outlet timer from 8am to 5pm. Windows filter out uvb light and it affects birds in a few ways. It impedes their ability to absorb calcium/vitamin D, and it also affects their vision. Birds have ultraviolet sensitivity (they can see things in the ultraviolet spectrum that humans cannot see), and in the absence of natural light (which contains uv rays), they can't see those things they would normally see because uv rays illuminate them to birds (such as patterns on other birds feathers). Their world is much duller visually, in the absence of unfiltered natural light (or artificial uvb light made for animals).

I use this bulb in this lamp. Mine clamps on the outside of the cage, with the bulb close to the cage so my birds, when they are sitting on their preferred perches, theyre less than 12 inches from the bulb.

Right now I'm using a Powersun 100watts. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419821539&sr=8-1&keywords=powersun

But I'm thinking about buying a Mega Ray 100 Watt on the recommendation from other turtle owners.
http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67&products_id=181


Edit: Large Riverstones work great still.

Without knowing what they are besides color, it's difficult to say. The red light is totally unnecessary and will disrupt your beardie's day/night cycle - toss that for sure.
If by 'blue' light you mean either a tube or compact UVB light, those should be on during the day, about 10-12 hours.
If by yellow light you mean a heat lamp, then again it should be on for about 10-12 hours, along with the UVB lamp, to provide heat like a sunny basking spot during the day.

All lights should be off at night.

Well the CHE screws into the fixture. A CHE is basically just another kind of bulb that doesn't give off light so you need a fixture to screw it into and then the fixture gets plugged into the thermostat and the thermostat gets plugged into the outlet.

There are two basic kinds of fixtures for this. This type is what you want if you have a metal mesh lid on a glass tank. It will be on top of the lid aimed down into the cage. This type is used for wood or pvc cages with solid ceilings. The fixture will be mounted inside the cage on the ceiling and then have a metal safety cage installed around the fixture/bulb.

To start off
What's the size of the tank?

What is her diet?

What are the temps?

Get rid of the sand. Use tile (like slate you can get a few for like 10$ at a lowes or home depot), or repti carpet, until then use newspaper or paper towel

Get a bigger hide

Get a tube uvb bulb ideally reptisun 10.0. (link: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PQqWCbQQA43XZ)

It's a cling on one by All Living Things, and I got it at PetSmart! Link!


It was a dome fixture that came with a kit(It's kinda cheap but it works), It came with two. Also, I was using this PetSmart brand bulb that was a 100 watts,(brand was All Living Things, DO NOT get it. Total crap), and another 150 watt house hold bulb and had to use both of those to get to 105. It was bad. But, Since that damn 100 watt went out (in less than a month) I gave in and bought a ZooMed Basking bulb from PetSmart, It was about $20 for 2. But, here it's 10 for two(never knew or I would have got it, oh well!) So, it'll save me a trip when this one goes out.

You could probably use a dome like this. or this And this one I had to raise it because it got to 116 and it was too hot.

Just make sure the bulbs wattage doesn't exceed what it says it can take on the little sticker.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-PT2336-Night-Fixture/dp/B00JDRMT8C


I really like this lamp, it's touch activated and provides a nice day light for if your room is dark and a low blue light at night. It also doesn't give off a lot of heat so your gecko won't be bothered.

For a basking light, pretty much any white halogen or incandescent bulb is fine. No need to spend a crazy amount on a reptile specific brand, it's the same bulb.

For uvb, I use this bulb and fixture.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/Carolina-Custom-Cages-Standard-Reflector/dp/B00K2AY8EW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

A lot of people suggest arcadia bulbs. I've never used them but they're a good option as well.

For night heat, don't use any light. They are diurnal and the light will mess with their day/night cycle. Unless it gets below about 75 degrees in the enclosure, you don't need anything. If it's colder than that, get a ceramic heat emitter.

I would like to point out that placing the tank near a window does not count for UVB light as it can not pass through glass. Also be careful how close you place the UVB light: http://www.redearslider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11796

Edit: I have used the same double dome that DannySeel linked to on a stand along with Zoo Med Spot Lamp for heat and Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 for UVB. You only NEED the lights over the basking area, however some light over the rest of the tank wouldn't hurt (such as the T5 lights).

Is this the bulb you are talking about? Link I found the powersun here but it looks like it has less UVB that then above lamp.

yeah uvb is a long bulb like this one https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Habitat-Lighting-Fluorescent/dp/B000QFROMQ

The uvb bulb doesn’t give off much heat so the other side of the tank will still be cooler if you have your basking bulb on the warm side.
Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2uQBb1MEZKCH

That brand would be the one to go to, you can buy the hood for it as well on amazon. Online is always cheaper than in stores.

As for the dubia roaches try searching in your area for reptile centers or shops they usually carry them.

A 'thermostat' is not the same thing as a 'thermometer'. A thermostat is a machine that controls the power of a heating element based on the temperature read by an attached sensor. If the temperature sensor detects above a certain 'target' temperature, it lowers the power to the heating element. If the temperature sensor detects below that temperature, it increases power to the heating element. The Herpstat thermostats I linked also include a clock that can keep track of time and change the 'target' temperature at certain times.

If your 'infrared bulb' emits light of any color, it's not good for night-time use. Even red light is visible to reptiles. Use a ceramic heat emitter / ceramic heating element instead, like this one.

I don't know the answer to the body temp question, but I got a fixture with a dimmer function for my CHE and it has been so helpful. I dial it up or down to help balance the temperature as needed. (https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC)

Thanks, would combination of these two work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8RHTYU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A27NGVKUPKCNVM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DU3SW0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1R1O51TC5L0SM

I would use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) or a DHP (deep heat projector.) these both go into tile/slate and keep it warm very well.

I use either the repti sun https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506132317&sr=1-5&keywords=uvb+reptile+light

or the 5.0 exo terra https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506132360&sr=8-3&keywords=uvb+reptile+light+exo+terra

I personally think the repti sun has a better light temperature which is the term they use for what color the light is and how it makes things look. The exo terras I use were just on sale.

Flukers brand sells a 5.5 and 8.5 inch dome that have a built in dimmer that I like for use with my CHEs. I find it really convenient not to spend a ton on both parts, a dome AND a dimmer or thermostat.

On Amazon or Chewy.com, usually one of the sizes is around $10, it seems to swap around a bit over time which is cheaper, the other is usually around $20, so I have 2 of each now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003H200QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550070434&sr=8-5&keywords=flukers&dpPl=1&dpID=51yIKsky5IL&ref=plSrch

I have the following ones wishlisted (for clarity's sake, I haven't actually tried any of them yet, so I don't actually know from personal experience if they're any good).

Exo Terra Night-Glo Moonlight A19 Lamp, 75-Watt
http://amzn.com/B000633URQ

Exo Terra Heat-Glo Infrared Spot Lamp, 75-Watt/120-Volt
http://amzn.com/B0002AR3QC

Exo Terra Repti-Glo 2.0 Compact Fluorescent Full Spectrum Terrarium Lamp, 26-Watt
http://amzn.com/B00101IC7G

And I'm looking to put them in a set of these:

Exo Terra Mirror Dome Light, 7-Inch
http://amzn.com/B0041OU75O

If these are the ones you had bad results with, well, I'd love to hear about it so I can look for something else!

This is the exact light I got 1, just noticed its not the PowerSun 2

Do I need to switch to the powersun one or are they basically the same thing?

Thank you, didn't think about having a secondary feeding area I will see how he likes that.

About the food, The snack has 39% Crude protein, 4.5% Crude Fat, 2% crude fiber, 1.2% phosphorus, 3% Calcium. mean while the Aquatic Turtle food for hatchlings has 43% protein. So I am thinking I just just switch to the adult stuff that has like ~23% protein. and when he is bigger look into live worms. crickets are out as the wife wont have those in the house. but when she is gone I will sneak my bro a few :D.

Edit: I think I answered my own question about the bulbs. Need to get the better one listed on sticky the power sun. They are different. Stupid petco had limited types of bulbs. Better than nothing and I think he will be okay until the amazon one comes in.

Thank you so much for the detailed response!

This is the current bulb I was "recommended" in the kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8RHTYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525505485&sr=8-1&keywords=reptisun+uvb+bulb&dpPl=1&dpID=518wkzx8rrL&ref=plSrch


Kind of bummed it is basically useless.

I am am absolutely anticipating the cost of feeding the youngin, this just hit me particularly hard because of how expensive everything else was to begin with.

Thank you very much for the light recommendation! I think I may actually have to go smaller, as I think that light may actually hang over the sides of the 20 gallon enclosure I have right now. It may not be the prettiest, but would it be an issue detrimental to the health of my dragon if it did actually overlap the entire thing?

Thanks, the visual aid helped confirm I was understanding this right. It's also good to hear there's not much different prices in brands, since some are much more expensive than others.

Zoo Med - $64

Exo Terra - $28

Fluker's - $28

SunForce - $30

[Blue Spotted - $36] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PQ2HUJ6)

I chose the 100w bulb prices for comparison, with the exception of the Blue Spotted which I only found in 160W. The Exo Terra is 125W, but also available in 160W.

If it's like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-10-0-Mini-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RHTYU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468244666&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=reptisun+10.0+uvb+coil

I would swap it out for this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ3BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can grab a cheap fixture for it at walmart or lowes and mount it inside the tank with command strips. The problem with what you have now is that the uv rays are getting filtered by the screen top. Mounting a tube fixture inside will allow you little guy to get more uvb rays.

The Reptisun 10.0 t5 is powerful enough to be mounted above mesh. It's also rated for 1 year on a 12 hour on/off cycle. A t8 should be mounted below the mesh and changed every 6 months.

Yeah it exist! https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK

Read about the CHE on the sub's sidebar. So will be checking out a store today or simply ordering off of amazon. No colored lights in the tank.

The big thing i see with the Reptisun 10.0 is that most people hang them inside the tank so I'm guessing I should get a fixture that will fit under the mesh tank top.

These two will work? Or will any terrarium hood work?

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v89PAbDYCJZME

Zoo Med 26053 Reptisun T5-Ho Terrarium Hood, 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8F2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k99PAbVNJ0Q7Y

CHE I'm looking at.

Ceramic Heat Emitter - Reptile Lamp 100 Watt Reptile Heat Bulb No Light Emitting Brooder Coop Heater 2 PACK,Black (2 Pack=100W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079254FFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a-9PAbRD583H1

Excuse the formatting I'm on mobile.

Ah, I'm sorry you're in this predicament. The plastic tote is fine for a baby to medium sized juvenile but the important thing is the proper bulbs. If it's sunny where you live take him out to get uvb from the sun because he isn't getting any from the bulbs. The pet stores sell the wrong things for reptiles. If you can very quickly order one of these it will produce heat AND uvb.

https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-Pet-Supplies-Mercury-Amphibian/dp/B01CRJXJZ4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MCFEHZ1QW15DSSXQAC2W

Oooh, so something like this guy?

We have her lights automated, wouldn't be too hard to automate one of these on when the light goes off!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHO6S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002DHO6S&linkCode=as2&tag=bdlife-20

JSYK a LOT of beardie owners and forums dislike compact UVB compact bulbs. It is significantly more often recommended to get long UVB bulbs such as a [T8](zilla reptile habitat lighting uvb fluorescent desert t8 bulb, 15w https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFROMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yB4YDbYA21HAS) .

I actually run a MVB as well as a 14 inch T8, and my beardie is doing superbly.

Ceramic heat bulbs (no visible light, IR however is the main output) for decoys, in front of a fan that has a net attached to the back. just empty the net every now and then.

https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Ceramic-Heat-Emitter-Reptiles/dp/B0002DHO6S

Here are the bulbs I'm using. I have not washed his eyes with the saline yet, but was planning on doing that today. Do you think this is a good idea?

https://imgur.com/a/R91RKql
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-25156-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RI8TK

They are in a double housing. I know this isn't the best lighting fixture and I'm planning on replacing it down the line but I thought it would have been ok.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO

Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vgRzDbYRCNEF6

They also sell T5, http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-10-0-Lamp/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396731103&sr=8-1&keywords=reptisun+t5

The one I have is from Fluker's.

Zoo Med OS524 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_myf5BbG2Y8SAB

2 ft.T5 High 1-Bulb Output Fluorescent Grow Light Fixture https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IPUHEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RAf5BbPV0M27N

The fixture was a bit trickier for me to find and I had to get one on Amazon and not just my local department store because I was told that since my bulb was a HO (high output), I needed a HO light fixture.

Zilla Reptile Terrarium Covers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFQ30K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

REPTIZOO Dual Lamp Fixture for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWKXYPP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

MUST Swap the UVB bulb every 6 months.

It depends on your fixture. You can choose a T5 or T8 bulb

Mine is this T5: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_73C4BbK9V8FSQ

I have a RES and I recently bought a bunch of Zoo Med 100W bulbs as they are on sale. They provide UVB and heat all in one bulb to reduce the amount of fixtures I need on my tank. To light the other end of my tank I just use a simple desk lamp.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK

I’ve always used the powersuns.


Zoo Med PowerSun UV UVB (100 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQDJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7XVPDb7AXHAD5

They may be a bit expensive but I’ve never had an issue with them.

here for your uvb:

buy this https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21JSZM2WO8M3N&keywords=reptisun+t5+10.0&qid=1572226790&sprefix=reptisun+t5+1%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-1

put it in this https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-26054-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B00AQU8FR4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reptisun+t5+hood&qid=1572226798&sr=8-1

put the hood on screen, 9-10 inches from your basking spot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQDJK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YKHLMXRLPQLV

I bought this on another users recommendation, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8RI8TK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

I got one of these fixtures, comes with bulb but I got a 6500K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ98PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQA8E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would this be a good option? (I dont want to buy another light fixture)
Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact Fluorescent Tropical Terrarium Lamp, 26-Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tti5BbAF75YM2

Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun

Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.

Does not look like you have correct lighting.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=pd_cp_199_3?pd_rd_w=Pb2RT&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=197FW6ZWBPG71J8YYE5R&pd_rd_r=9329ceb9-b6a0-4853-b5ba-837bf4aef58e&pd_rd_wg=SNAjr&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HAO&psc=1&refRID=197FW6ZWBPG71J8YYE5R

http://www.amazon.com/Repti-Glo-Compact-Fluorescent-Tropical-Terrarium/dp/B00101JI2Y/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_y

Boom. Sorry can't link properly on my phone. Yeah I buy the heat bulbs for $10 for 8 so they're super cheap at the local hardware store. The UVB lasts me so long bit I change it every year even if not burnt out because the rays can weaken over time. There was a sale a while back on them and I bought 10.

Edit: also they don't need UVA as much.

I haven't heard of anyone using those. It looks interesting but a couple things I can think of:

If that power symbol on the top left is a light, it may disturb your hedgehog.

It says it has two heat settings with a built-in thermostat. If those settings aren't an appropriate temperature, you may need an additional thermostat. Redundancy is always good with heaters anyway in case of failure.

I wouldn't place it within reach of the hedgehog despite it saying zero clearance.


Most people use these types of heat products:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1at8Bb48DVR65

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lct8BbWJYR774

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cdt8BbH1E5YHF

Finding T8s with the appropriate color temperature is getting harder. The last hold-out for those bulbs were aquarium shops, but in the last 2 years they've all migrated to T5 fixtures. I recycled two over-driven T8 fixtures because it was cheaper to just go to the new Feliz bulbs.

The only place you can buy the right T8 lights is on Amazon, and they're ~$12-15 per light With newer, more precise technology, it's no longer economically feasible to stick with T8s.

Here's another 6500K veg bulb

I just get Repto/Zoo Med two light housing amazon

I get a random UVB light bulb (they also provide UVA) link

For your light bulb for heat, just use any 1000 watt bulb and you will be fine.

edit: My bad it is indeed a 100 watt bulb.

http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Ceramic-Heat-Emitter-Reptiles/dp/B0002DHO6S/ref=pd_sim_199_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41%2B2atqosfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR145%2C160_&refRID=1N2AFZKQN9DVQG6VNBC9

I have it screwed in to a simple light socket with clamps attached to it to hold it in place.

It is hooked up to my STC-1000 in a side-by-side frankenfridge.

Get a dimmable lamp hood like this one and use any white light basking bulb. You can go to any hardware store and get a couple feet of chain for a couple dollars, and some screw in hooks to hang it from. If you use the clamp it could fall and burn your tort or catch the substrate on fire. And then get a point and shoot thermometer gun like this one to check the temp directly under the bulb. Putting a piece of slate for your tort to lay on under the lamp is also a good idea. About $1 for a square foot or you could look for a broken piece they may give you for free.

Ceramic heater bulb (type into amazon, produce no light and only heat) and get an 8.5” dome that’s dimmable (I ordered the flukers brand for $12 on amazon). This will allow you to use a 75 or 100w bulb and adjust it just right for him. It keeps my cage ~85 degrees. I had the issue with my baby beardie and that helps him stay cozy!

Edit: the products that I ordered for my set up!

Bulbs:
Wuhostam 100W 2 Pack Infrared Ceramic Heat Lamp,Black Reptile Emitter Bulb for Pet Coop Heater Chicken Lizard Turtle Brooder Aquarium Snake No Harm No Light ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXD4SMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mb3ADbCNAP3EB

Fixture:
Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jc3ADbT4HGZ0A

Oh wow, I had no alerts to replies here, so I'll start with you!
He's a 6 month old Sternotherus odoratus (Musk Turtle).

It's a 29G~ tank, which originally had a lid & strip lamp, but due to the risk of turtle respiratory problems caused by humidity, I removed it.

The setup consists of:

• Small Exo Terra Turtle Bank (for basking)
  
• Exo Terra Glow Light Porcelain Clamp Lamp
  
• Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 (source of UV, which he needs for shell-development - Vitamin D synthesis, to be precise.)
  
• Fluval U2 Filter (I really wanted to get an external filter, but I'm a broke student, and this was a huge upgrade to the one I was sold by my local pet shop when setting the tank up for the first time) - will be upgrading this when I can afford to.
  
• Fluval 50w heater (set at 25.5 degrees, for optimum hatchling happiness)
  
  I originally had a different basking surface for him, the Zoo Med turtle dock - It was terrible (floating Styrofoam type substance that slowly disintegrated over 2 months or so. held in place by unattractive plastic tubing and suckers).
  
  He also recieves regular shipments of Elodea canadensis (pondweed).
  
  Oh, and a standard ikea desk lamp pointing towards his island to provide concentrated heat, and some rocks at the bottom to allow for some variation in floor texture, I can't have much in the way of substrate as they can sometimes eat rocks and sand, which will never pass through their digestive system, I don't wish that discomfort upon him.
  
  Another note: They are EXTREMELY messy eaters with a very fast metabolism, feeding them in their tank means dirty water and poo everywhere!
  
  I move him to a smaller feeding tank each day, where he feasts on bounties of bloodworms and spinach (and the occasional piece of minced beef, if he's very lucky.)