(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best reptiles & amphibian supplies

Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid / sterilite / iris tub and soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing.

Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.

Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant with one end at between 88F and 90F and a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, and should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. If, for some reason, you decide to ignore this advice and get a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate.

Thermostats
Any and all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F and seriously injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones with more probes so that you can control all your heat sources with one unit. They have a ton of good safety features and a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features and can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.

Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side. I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps and the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes and also checking the temps of the prey items.

Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open and they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. IMO some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are also dishwasher safe, and also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe and thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines / leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.

Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop and pee in their water occasionally. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.

Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, and as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation and dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. THey come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer (and I myself am a vegetarian, no concerns about it mixing in with my veggies). If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.

How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.

You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Frozen / Thawed
I feed frozen/thawed from Perfect Prey. I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 110F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. Sometimes I use a double boiler method instead, depends on the day. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.

I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.

Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.

Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. My BP likes burrowing under the paper towels. She creates "underground" tunnels. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.

Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python blue eyes" - the ones that look cloudy are what you are looking for (not the beautiful "blue eyed lucy"). Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water and make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it and inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it....) carefully and look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water and it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.

No worries. I figured you were just busy for the weekend. Like I said - you have your life to deal with. I'm not going to take it personally if you're MIA for a few days, haha. :)

I had a good weekend - I didn't do anything productive, whatsoever. Just took some time to relax and take care of myself.

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Getting to meet that milk snake is super exciting! I just did a bit of reading about them, and it sounds like young milks are usually somewhat hyperactive, but that they calm down with age.

From my reading, here's what you will need to purchase:

1. Vivarium - usually you want 1ft^2 of floor space per 1' the snake will be, full grown.
   
   From my reading, milk snakes can get between 2' and 6' full grown. If possible, find out the subspecies so we can narrow that range down. Most likely, it's a Pueblan or Honduran milk snake (two of the most common subspecies). Honduran milks can get up to 5', so a safe cage size would be 3' x 2' (length x width). Pueblans only get between 3' and 4', so we don't really need to worry about those.
   
   If you can't find out the subspecies, you could either just get a 3' x 2' viv, or get something smaller and increase the size as necessary.
   
   
2. Heating element and thermostat. A heat pad would be ideal, considering that milk snakes sometimes burrow. Here's an example of a thermostat and heat pad. You attach the heat pad to the bottom of the cage, making sure not to have the viv resting on top of the heat pad or wires (or else you run the risk of short circuits and fires).
   
   After you set up the heat pad, run the thermostat probe to the inside of your viv, usually placing it inside of the hide on the warm side. Alternatively, as milks sometimes burrow, you may want to put the thermostat temperature probe closer underneath your substrate, at the bottom of the viv. This will insure that you know what the hottest temperature that your milk can be exposed to by burrowing.
   
   My reading suggests that you want to keep the warm side ~85f - 90f. Not sure what that is in C.
   
   
3. Digital thermometer/hygrometer like this one. You want one that has probes, so you can check specific points around your viv.
   
   At first, you will want to keep your thermometer probe at the same location as your thermostat probe, just to make sure that's reading correctly. After you've verified that, you can move the thermometer probe to the cool side, so you can keep an eye on both sides.
   
   Alternatively, some people get laser temperature sensors so they can quickly and easily check the temperature of any part of the viv. You'd still need to get a hygrometer (humidity sensor) if you went that route.
   
   
4. Substrate. Looks like Aspen or Cypress are both excellent substrates for milks. You can also use paper towels or newspaper as temporary, sanitary solutions in case of any injury/illness.
   
   You'll probably want 6"+ of substrate over the entire floor of the viv, as milks do sometimes burrow. Giving them enough substrate to allow that is advised.
   
   
5. Hides, terrain, water dish, etc. Hides should be snug-ish, and terrain should look cool. Water dish you probably want to be big enough for the snake to soak in if he wants, but that's about all.
   
   Milks need like 40% - 60% humidity, so you probably don't need to worry about that in the slightest. Getting a little spray bottle might be a good choice, though.
   
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   Yeah, it's definitely something that I take for granted until someone (such as yourself) reminds me how different things are elsewhere.
   
   I've never taken Puppy to the vet. She's never had any injuries or health problems. Speaking of taking things for granted, if I ever needed a vet, I'd find one at that point. Might be a good idea to just get an idea of whether there are nearby vets for you, though.
   
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   I'd have been shocked if you'd thought about snake body language before - not many people have. Even most other reptile owners don't seem to have paid as much attention to it as I have.
   
   I can think of one particular time that I've seen Puppy "happy". It was this spring, the first time I took her outside this year. And in that case, it was more an example of "extremely relaxed" than it was "happy/excited" like you see in dogs.
   
   I'm glad you like Puppy. :)
   
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   Yeah, I understand where you're coming from. You've got to temper your desires with the realities of your situation, and a milk snake is an excellent compromise.
   
   Honestly, I have never interacted with a Woma, although I'd like to someday. From what the OP of that other thread was saying, it sounds like he was quite intent on eating their arm, and it took 5 minutes to get him off.

I've kept chameleons for almost 10 years, and I think I can give you at least a jumping off point to get started.

In my opinion, the biggest thing to put time and money into is the setup for the little guy. Having the proper enclosure, UVB lighting, heating, hydration, and positioning (in your home) is the single most important thing to have in place before you even start looking for the chameleon you want to buy. Panthers, in my experience, are somewhat more environmentally demanding than other generally "beginner friendly" chameleons like Veileds.

This shouldn't scare you at all. I want to make that clear. This is not a reply that is meant to discourage you from getting a chameleon, but rather to make sure that you have thought your way through the commitment you want to make. These are fairly demanding pets, and the last thing I want to happen is for you to spend 200+$ on a living work of art and then get into a losing battle trying to keep it healthy. I just went through that battle with a rescued veiled chameleon, and believe me it's not fun.

So long as you have prepared your chameleon's environment, you should have a nice and easy time keeping it hale and hearty.

A brief overview of what to expect when owning a panther can be found here

More in-depth details about setting yourself up can be found here

To give you a better idea about what I think you should look into, I'll give you a rundown of my personal setup for my female veiled chameleon. I've gone a bit above and beyond what the minimum is, but I cobbled all of this stuff together over about 3 years so that I could have a really nice enclosure and setup I can reuse over and over. I'll give you costs for my final setup and a few options you can use to save some money at the end here.

My personal setup for my current chameleon, a female veiled, is a screen-walled cage that is 2ftx2ftx5ft. It's difficult to find large cages that are at all economical to buy, so I built mine myself. I placed wooden dowels throughout the cage to provide a basic vertical structure, and a hanging ivy plant provides cover and extra structure as it grows throughout the enclosure.

I've placed the enclosure near a window that gets sun all morning, so I open the window to let the natural sun provide a nice basking area and plenty of ventilation during the day and close it at night when it gets cold.

On top of the cage, I have two halogen basking bulbs (incandescent filament bulbs die on me constantly, so this works better). One weaker bulb provides a concentrated basking spot at about 90^o on a dedicated basking "branch", and a stronger bulb provides a cage-wide gradient from about 78-85^o at the top down to about 65^o at the bottom. In addition to those, I have an Arcadia 12% UVB High Output T5 bulb and hood to give her the UVB she can't get past the morning.

I invested in a rainfall system by Exo-Terra to make sure hydration wasn't an issue.

With those points hit, I think my cage is a very solid environment for Pasquale to wander about in.

Here's the price breakdown on everything I have put into the enclosure:

Cage itself

• Building materials for the structure (wood, screws, glue, hinges, varnish, latch, screen) - 100$
  
• Internal structure - 10$
  
• Foliage - 20$ for the hanging plant
  
• Time - Priceless
  
  Heating
  
  
• Light hoods for the halogen bulbs - 50$
  
• Halogen bulbs (1x50W, 1x75W) - 15$
  
  Hydration
  
  
• Monsoon Rainfall System - 100$ (Christmas gift)
  
• Tubing to extend the range of the system - 3$
  
  UVB - MOST IMPORTANT
  
  
• Arcadia 12% UVB T5HO - 30$
  
• T5HO hood - 15$
  
  Total price for above and beyond cage setup ~ 320$
  
  You can save quite a bit of money on the lighting and hydration. Use 2$ 100W food heating bulbs ( USE CAUTION IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS make sure you cant catch anything on fire and make damn well sure that your chameleon has plenty of room to get out of the heat) or 8$ incandescent (non-reflector type are cheaper, reflected spotlight-type are usually 12-15$) pet basking bulbs, buy a 2$ spray bottle from walmart to hand-mist your enclosure or set up a drip system that constantly drips water through the screen onto your plant.
  
  The one thing I would say you MUST have above all else named above is a good UVB source. UVB lets reptiles synthesize vitamin D3. D3 is marginally responsible for mood stability and neurological health, but more importantly it enables the absorption of calcium into their bones. Chameleons cannot easily make use of ingested D3 from supplements or gut-loaded insects, so they must make their own using the UVB they are exposed to. Without a good source of UVB, they will develop what is essentially rickets. Their bones will become brittle and malleable, bending, fracturing, and then eventually freezing that way when they begin to get what they need. It's an awful condition that is very simple to avoid.
  
  The generally available/recommended Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 bulbs are beyond awful. I make it a habit to get my lights tested by my vet before I install them to make sure they're outputting useful UVB, and without fail every Reptisun bulb I've tried has produced about as much UVB at 3" as standing in the middle of a dense forest on a very overcast day. The Arcadia bulbs are wonderful, often producing more UVB than a bright summer day at about 12-18" and are very much worth the 10$ (+shipping) higher price tag. They're quite difficult to find, and not available in any pet shop I have yet visited, so you'll have to get them online. I sourced my bulbs and my T5HO hood from here. Make sure you match your bulb to the hood size. I believe that reptile basics' 24" hood fits only the 22" bulbs, not the 24" ones.
  
  OK. So. There's your enclosure setup needs explained. Everything from here on is easy as pie.
  
  You will need to keep 3 basic things on hand at pretty much all times: food, supplements, and gut-load. All of them cost less than 10$ each.
  
  Choose a couple kinds of feeder insects (crickets, calciworms, mealworms, superworms, wax worms, butterworms etc) and keep a supply of them on hand at all times.
  
  
• Crickets need to be gut loaded a couple hours before you feed them and they tend to die off quickly, so they're gonna be the ones you buy quite often. Biggest advantage of these is that they're cheap and large ones only cost about 10-12c apiece at the very most.
  
  
• Mealworms and superworms can be kept on hand as an "oh shit I forgot to buy/can't afford food" food as well as a general mix food because they don't really require much maintenance. Prices range from $2.50 for 100 small ones to $6.00 for maybe 50 giants. Superworms especially can be a little more expensive than crickets, but they're still fairly cheap (at least at the shop I get them from) at around 15c/ea. Biggest advantage is that you can buy a zillion of them without having to worry about them dying. If they pupate, you can feed the pupae and even the beetles without issue. If they grow into beetles, there's even a chance they'll lay eggs. That just happened to me recently. Free food is nice.
  
  
• Calciworms are my current staple feeder of choice. They have, as the name implies, a lot of calcium in them. They turn into soldier flies (big-ass scary looking flies, but harmless), which Pasquale LOVES to eat.
  
  
• Wax worms and butterworms are usually pretty fast to pupate, turning into small moths that you can let flutter around the enclosure to be eaten at the chameleon's leisure. I personally find that annoying because they die soon after hatching from the pupa, so I don't often buy them.
  
  
• Hornworms are EXPENSIVE at $2.50-3 EACH!!!!, but are nice for when you want to give your chameleon a treat. Christmas/Thanksgiving dinner or a birthday present, for example.
  
  All in all, expect to spend about 10$ on food a month.
  
  Supplements are important to have around because they make up for the deficiencies of the food you'll bee giving your chameleon. They'll have calcium, phosphorus, vitamins, proteins, and other minerals your chameleon needs that it may or may not get from its food. If you're a master of gut-loading, you may eventually decide to just formulate a diet that covers everything they contain, but it's almost universally a good idea for a beginner to have supplements around. I currently use Zoo Med's Reptivite as my dusting supplement, and I quite like it. Be aware that it has a very very high phosphorus content and can be somewhat hazardous to overuse.

That's a lot of questions so I'll edit this post over the next little while trying to answer them all. While I do that, please take some time to read up on the side bar and get yourself some basic information. The more research you do the better. A lot of people hurt their chams by getting them before doing their research. Rule number one, obey Flip.

Edit 1: Veiled vs Panther: Veiled are sturdier and so generally considered better for starters. They also get larger. They can also be more territorial, which is why I chose a panther, but there are no guarantees any species of chameleon is going to let you hand train them. So if letting them out to play with you is important you may want to look into another reptile. However, assuming that's not a deal breaker for you, as it wasn't for me, the other main difference is price and looks. Veiled chams are much cheaper than panthers, go for 50-150. While my panther was 350 (with shipping). Some pet stores sell them cheaper, but do not buy from any chain store as they take poor care of their reptiles and you're likely to get an unhealthy one.

Edit 2: Enclosure: screen enclosures are a must, no matter how many holes it has, don't buy a glass tank. Depending on the age you get your chameleon at you can either start with a full sized cage (4'...assuming you want a male, males are prettier and healthier) an intermediate cage (this was mine, it catches a bit when I try to close to door, but it's a simple problem for the price), or if you get a young one, which is not suggested you will need a baby cham setup. As far as what is the best adult cage, I'm sure people can debate for days about it, I for one am about to order this setup. I seems like a nicer product than the popular brands, and I like having the shelves (it's hard to hang things against the wire cage without tearing the cage, and it looks a lot better than having coated wire going from support to support to avoid holes in the screen. I know you can buy supplies and make the cages or have them made for you as well, I'm just too lazy.

Edit 3: accessories: For starters, this is a picture of my amazon order I used when I first got my cage. DO NOT get the deep dome light fixture I had in that picture, I ended up going with zoomed 8 1/2" dome. The brand isn't really important, and you can probably find cheaper at home depot, but deep dome focuses the light too much and chams burn easily. I no longer use the little dripper, it didn't really help my cham find his drinking glass, check the side bar to learn how to set up a drinking glass. I would suggest everything else, unless Flip tells you otherwise. You're also going to want a live plant, make sure you get one that isn't bad for the cham, as some chams will chew on the leaves. I would suggest a pothos, lots of vines, big leaves to hide behind, easy to keep healthy. As for light bulbs, find an incandescent bulb (or a variety at different watts) and adjust them until the basking spot (no closer than 8" to the bulb, and not directly under the bulb) is a good temperature around 100 degrees should be fine. You may need to change out the bulbs as it gets hotter and colder where you're keeping your cham. You may also want an auto timer so that you can keep the lights on a schedule. Don't forget about a cage for your feeder insects, I would highly suggest a model with tubes if you have the crickets, the crickets climb into the tubes and you can just shake them out, couldn't be easier. Dubia roaches are the best feeder bugs, and you can start a colony and never have to pay for more if you have a 10 gallon aquarium to set up. You will also need gut load food and water crystals. I'm probably forgetting something here, so please ask if you think I forgot something.

Edit 4: Humidity: You don't really need to worry much about humidity if you don't get a baby. This is part of where this subreddit differs from the rest of the chameleon world. As long as you can keep the humidity to around 30 percent your cham should be fine. Chameleons come from humid areas, but as adults they climb up into the trees where the air is much less humid. This keeps your cham healthier as they don't have to worry as much about the infections from humid air. Water can be a breeding ground for bacteria, and respiratory infections are common and life threatening for chameleons. I still mist just for the sake of letting my cham drink from leaves because I didn't set up my cage well for a drinking glass, I thought I did, but I was wrong. I'll set mine up better when I switch to an adult cage in a week or 2. I may spray a little bit if he is having a hard time shedding but aside from that I hope to be able to put the spray bottle away for good soon. If you want one, you can find cheap misters at any place with a garden department cheap.

Edit 5: diet: As I said earlier the best thing to feed a cham is dubia roaches. Until it's big enough for dubias crickets are the next best thing. If you end up with a baby chameleon you can use flightless fruit flies, but you should not be getting a baby. Don't feed your cham something longer than the head of your cham is wide, to keep your cham from choking. As far as how much to eat your cham, that depends on the age. I assume you will be getting 4-5 month old, which means it will be in it's rapid growth phase. At this point I like to fill up the bottom of a dixie cup (not a see through one) and hold it out under him for 5 minutes. I've seen other people build a settup for their feeding cup into their cage so that they don't have to hold the cup...I prefer doing it by hand to try to get my cham more comfortable with me. Sometimes he doesn't want to eat and I shake some out for him to hunt throughout the day, just don't give him too many as the cricket may try to eat off your cham at night. Once they leave their full grown you're going to want to cut back, I'm not sure to how much just yet, I assume every cham is different in this regard, but I know they can over eat, still you probably don't have to worry about that for some time. I like to give my cham some meal worms by hand every now and then. Chams love them, but it's not the healthiest option for them, they are high in fat. Give them too many and the cham will start ignoring it's other food and hold out for meal worms.

I think that's about it, if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Yeah, those Zilla kits all are pretty much terrible. You're better off not using a kit at all actually, since they are way overpriced compared to buying/making the things you need individually.


Definitely go for the 20 gallon long tank. That size tank is actually ideal for a single adult leopard gecko. Instead of the lights, you'll want to heat the tank with an under tank heater under one side that is controlled with a thermostat. That's not optional, since a UTH can get very hot if it isn't controlled. I use the Hydrofarm thermostat, and recommend it. It certainly isn't the best out there, but it does its job and you can't beat the price. Be sure to have a digital thermometer that can read the actual surface of your gecko's substrate, not the little ones that stick on the glass. A thermometer with a probe alongside an infrared temp gun works wonders.

I'd personally also ditch the reptile carpet for tile as well, since my guy kept snagging his toes and jaws on the carpet and the tile is a breeze to clean, but if yours does fine with the carpet it should work fine, just don't use sand. Be sure to have three hides: one on the cool end of the tank, one on the warm end, and a humid one. Exo Terra is my personal favorite for hides, but store brand ones work fine, or you could even make your own.


I can't really say how old your gecko is without pictures, but if you got it from a pet store it's probably pretty young. Be sure you dust its food with calcium and vitamins. Vitamin D3 is particularly important. Repashy Calcium Plus is great, since it's an all-in-one powder, but I know alternating Repti-Cal and Reptivite works as well.


Crickets are a great thing for it to eat actually, better than mealworms. However, variety is always nice, but I don't have a lot of tips on getting a gecko to try new foods since mine isn't picky. Dubia roaches, if you can get over the ick factor, make an even better feeder than crickets, and phoenix worms and Calci-Worms are also great options. I'd stick to feeding your gecko as much as it can eat in a night if it's a baby. You do need to catch and remove any crickets that aren't eaten in 15-30 minutes. I always try to corner them and grab them one at a time, even if that can take a while.

Also, be sure you're gutloading crickets before feeding them as well. Basically, feed them nutritious food before feeding them to your gecko. I recommend either Bug Burger or Cricket Crack, but there are a lot of options out there. Toss in some bits of carrot, potatoes, greens, or fruit as well, or use some gel polymer to keep them hydrated.


Sorry for the massive wall of text, but hopefully this helps! Good luck with your little buddy!

>Is it really so easy as buying a small enclosure, something to burrow into, and some crickets every once in a while?

Absolutely! I have 4 Ts. I make sure they have fresh water at all times and I feed them weekly. You just have to make sure that your enclosure suits the spider that you have. There are two types of set ups: arboreal and terrestrial (trees and ground). An arboreal spider will need about an inch or two of substrate and then a good amount of vertical space with some stuff to climb on. A terrestrial spider will need a set up that is opposite of that. As much ground space as possible with a substrate of at least 3 or 4 inches, and not that much vertical space(if they climb too high and fall, they could rupture the abdomen). For a substrate, always go with something like Eco Earth as it is not only inexpensive, but arguably the most suitable substrate on the market. Make sure the spider has something to hide under, or in. I just go outside and find sticks and bark and such and microwave it to kill off any bacteria. You do not need to pay for fancy hiding logs at the pet store! As for water, a small shallow dish will be suitable. Make sure that fresh water is always available for the T. DO NOT use a sponge in the water! I see many pet stores even making this mistake. It is not necessary, and will be a breeding ground for bacteria and molds.

>When purchasing spiders should I follow the same rules as say, buying a puppy? As in, don't buy from a "mill"?

You'll be fine just buying them online from a reputable source. You'll know exactly what you are getting, and it will be cheaper. The only issue is that shipping can be costly. I've heard a lot of good things about Jamie's Tarantulas and I know she has a $15 flat shipping fee. Mind you, you can only buy from her in the continental US.

>I read "docile nature" but does that mean that a spider could recognize me, or enjoy being socialized with? Or are they just lovely creatures to admire?

Absolutely not! By docile, it means that they are generally well tempered and will tolerate being handled. You should not handle your T often, and many species should just simply not be handled at all! They will certainly not socialize with you or recognize you. Tarantula behavior is all stimulus and response, nothing more. They are fascinating to view, but like I said even with "docile" species, keep handling to a minimum.

As for feeding, crickets. One cricket, once a week is how I do it.

Well, that should give you a pretty good general idea of tarantula care. Of course, you will have to read up on your species, and you should research about molting as well. Please feel free to ask me anything else you would like to know, and I will do my best to give you a sufficient answer.

Good luck on your first T!

First of all... thats a cute little gecko. I hope you get many years of pleasure out of caring for it.

But lets get down to business.

Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you haven't learned some of the basics... and I'd really really hate for you to get into a situation where your gecko didn't get to live a long happy life. For example, this is Ranger. I rescued him from one of my students who didn't know how to care for him properly. When I got him, he was in a poor state.


I want to make sure that your little buddy doesn't end up that way.


So, try something a little more like this.


1) 10 gallon tank.


Your plastic critter carrier is okay while its a baby, but it's going to outgrow that thing in about a month. Seriously, these guys grow up fast! A 10 gallon tank is perfectly fine for an individual leopard gecko. However, I prefer a 20 gallon long tank if you have the space for it. I'm sure the geckos appreciate the extra space to stretch their legs too. Believe it or not, they are actually very active at night! Don't let their daytime sleeping fool you.


2) Get a safe substrate.

Those wood chips look nice, but they're probably kind of difficult to walk on and some of the smaller pieces could cause impaction if he eats them. For babies I recommend paper towels. They're easy to clean up, and there is ZERO risk of impaction. If the white looks too bad, try the brown paper towels instead. That's what I used for Ranger when I was nursing him back to health. Alternately, you can use slate tiles, which look great and the geckos seem to really like. Just remember: NEVER USE SAND. It will kill your gecko.


3) Notice that there are three hiding spots.

On the left is a moist hide. It's just a disposable food container with damp paper towels inside. This will help with shedding, but they often like to go in it when they aren't shedding, so make sure to moisten the towels every couple of days. It's ugly so I put a fake plant in front of it. If this is too ugly for you, I'd suggest getting an Exo Terra Gecko Cave... obviously it costs a bit more. Likewise, you can get creative. I built Ranger's moist hide myself.


In the middle is the cool hide. It's just a flat piece of cork bark. It's simple, it looks really good, and they love it! They just crawl under it and chill. Once again, you can spurge on something fancy, but you don't have to!


On the right is the warm hide. It's one of those log hides, so it gets good air flow. You don't want something that will build up too much heat. It's sitting on top of a pice of slate tile, which is over the UTH.


4) Speaking of a UTH...

You need one. Leopard geckos can't digest food if they can't get their belly warm. A heat lamp does very little to help this. However, make sure that the hot spot doesn't get too warm. I'd recommend a thermostat, but I've also done perfectly fine with a mechanical timer. Mine shuts of for 30 minutes every two hours and that seems to keep it between 88 and 92 degrees.


5) Vitamins.

He needs a multivitamin powder, or you need to be feeding him "gut loaded" prey. For my geckos I just place some of the vitamin powder in the mealworm bowl. I also keep pieces of sandstone in my cages, and I dust the stones with calcium powder. They lick it right off!

I've never heard of this comparison between chameleons and cresteds, but I guess I'm not that familiar with chameleon temps/humidities. For a crested gecko, their ideal temperature is right around 75, and as far as humidity goes, you want to mist them in the evening to about 90% humidity and then it let it drop to the 50s. 18x18x24 is a perfect size for an adult crested gecko. This is the one I recommend, but you can probably shop around a little bit to find a slightly better price: http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-24-Inch/dp/B000OAYXTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453260720&sr=8-1&keywords=exo+terra+18x18x24 . Live plants I'm not familiar with, so I hope someone else here can you help with that. I highly recommend getting cork bark, I keep a flat and a round in each of my terrariums (http://imgur.com/tduiDxb this is how all of my terrariums are set up right now, Luci, the very grumpy gecko toward the bottom right, is sitting on the round), but I find the round is their favorite, they like using it to get all of their shed off, the big flat they more or less just use for climbing higher when they don't want to just walk on the glass. Food wise, you want to use pangea food. Some people prefer repashy, that's fine too, but I personally found when I switched my geckos from repashy to pangea, they ate 1000x better and looked 1000x healthier (they weren't unhealthy, they just seemed to take better to the pangea). http://www.pangeareptile.com/store/pangea-fruit-mix-banana-apricot-complete-gecko-diet.html This is my geckos' favorite one, but they also eat the watermelon/mango, and my youngest one also loves the insect one, but I couldn't get it to take with the geckos who just won't eat insects anymore. When they're babies, that's the best time to make sure you're supplementing with insects, that protein will help them grow.
What you put in the bottom of the terrarium is probably going to be dependent on live plants, so I'll leave that to the live plant experts on this thread.

I use this terrarium once they're larger but I invested because I raise mantids as pets quite often.

For a twig, I use this

And for foliage I use this with the suction cup plonked near the top and the leaves hanging down that I found in the reptile section.

The fish and reptile sections at your local pet store are going to be your favorite aisles from now on.

For substrate a lot of people here prefer dirt (NEVER from outside, there are all kinds of parasites and mites in outside dirt!) But I prefer coconut fiber as my substrate because it's naturally antibiotic and will hinder fungal and bacterial growth, and smell nicer too.

You'll really come to love these little guys, and here's why. Mantids, unlike most "bugs" hunt via sight, not vibration. This means they move and act much more mammalian than other insects. They don't skitter, they don't make sudden scary movements or bite or attack on sight (well some do, they all have their own distinct personalities), and they're VERY smart.

Mantids have been known to be receptive to operant conditioning, AKA they can be trained like a dog would. You should try to handle them (gently and with clean hands) as they grow up, every couple of days, and by the time they're adults they'll readily calmly hang out with you whenever you want. You can plop them on your arm as you do computer stuff or whatever. They're very docile creatures most of the time and make great pets. Just be careful because they're fragile.

As others said, keep humidity around 50% and if they're Tenodera Sinesis then temperature should hover around 70F at night and 80F during the day, which means you'll want a dome reptile lamp and you'll need to figure our the appropriate distance from the top of the cage to place it. Don't place it right on top, the mantids love to hang out on top upside down and a lamp right there would fry them. Make sure there's at least 1 cool spot for them to cool off.

As for food and water, once they're a little bigger the crickets at the pet store should work fine. If they're super picky there are lots of online mantis stores that sell larger flies. and whet a sponge or paper towel in there to help with the humidity.

At night time, you want it to be night time. Namely, as dark as you can make it in the cage. We are keeping ours facing away from lights that might get turned on late at night, which should hopefully keep things dark for our dragon.

As others have said, your concern at night isn't giving them light, it's keeping them 'warm'. Not at hot as daytime, but not letting things fall below 18C (65F). If your house does get that cold, you need a non-light emitting heat element for your vivarium.

You have a few choices there. Personally I've gone with a ceramic heat emitter. Here is an example of one off Amazon. Don't let their cheesy graphics fool you, these emit zero visible light. Make sure your dome fixture is up to the task! The one i linked is a 150W device. You will want to be sure that your dome light/housing and vivarium are able to deal with that heat!

Another alternative is to use an under cage heating element. Something like a flex-watt or the like just to give a gentle radiant heat over the whole cage. I'm not as familiar with this solution, so I cannot comment much on it's use. Just make sure your cage can take the heat, and that you aren't cooking things on the inside!

Awesome on you for reaching out to learn more and give your lizard better care! I wish you all the best as you upgrade your vivarium!

Being wobbly can have a number of causes, and, first and foremost, I'd suggest making a vet appointment. If she is still deteriorating, try to find an emergency vet who takes hedgehogs (I know this is not easy!).

Was she walking normally before you went away? Does she have any other symptoms? How old is Dinah?

From what I know, WHS does not present suddenly, but there are other neurological issues that can. It also usually presents earlier in life. Our first hedgie had a stroke near the end of her life. It presented seemingly like WHS, but was accompanied by sudden blindness and happened VERY quickly. She was totally fine one day, and was falling and dragging her legs within a week. We were able to partially rehabilitate her, and she enjoyed some improved quality of life before we had to put her to sleep due to an unrelated tumor. She was five.

Being suddenly stumbly can also be the result of being too cold or having an infection. Do you know if they kept her at the right temp? What's her cage at right now? If you don't have a thermometer in her cage, feel her belly. If it feels cold, she is too cold. Do not let her hibernate. It can be fatal. If you find she's too cold, a good immediate remedy is to hold her under your shirt, using your body heat to warm her. Then, make sure her cage is between 72 and 78 degrees F.

I'm not a vet or a breeder, so I can't tell you with absolute certainty all the signs of infection, but I'd look for changes in bowel habits and appearance. If you suspect an infection at all, you should get her to a vet immediately. Their little hedgehog bodies go downhill very quickly, and an infection is typically easy to treat with antibiotics.

Lastly, no matter what, make sure she is eating and drinking. Sometimes an underlying issue can result in difficulty getting to food and water, and this can compound the primary problem greatly. If it seems she isn't getting proper nutrition and/or hydration, it may be necessary to give her water and food by syringe. We used Carnivore Care with great success. You just mix it with water and feed by syringe or let her lick it, if she will do that.

My apologies if this wasn't entirely coherent. I'm just coming off of sleeping off a migraine, so please feel free to ask for any clarification. I just know how stressful it can be wondering and waiting for an answer. I hope I've been helpful, and please update about how Dinah is doing!

I still can't figure out exactly what kind of turtle he is.

Here's my recommendations. Please keep in mind that this is based on 1) Never owning a turtle of this type 2) Assumptions that it is some kind of common musk turtle, and 3) Limited research. Do a lot of your own reading over the next few days and see if you come to the same conclusions regarding diet and habitat. Hopefully this will give you a place to start though. All prices in USD.

Tank - 40 gallon breeder. You could probably get away with a 20 gallon long, as they are a pretty small species. I like to give my critters pleanty of room to move around though. A breeder tank has more floor space (36" x 18" x 17") than a 40 gallon long, since they don't need a very deep habitat. You can usually get tanks like this for 1$ per gallon, so $40 here. Local aquarium store

I personally like Flourite for a substrate, it looks natural and turtles tend not to try to eat it for whatever reason. 1-2 bags of this at ~$15 a bag, lets call it $30. Make sure you rinse this stuff really good first! https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Fluorite-Red-Clay-Gravel/dp/B00GJX0E08 <-- should be the stuff, I got mine from a local aquarium store though.

Canister filter rated for around 35-40 gallons. I'm forgoing my earlier rule of a filter at least 2x the size of the tank for two reasons. One, from what I'm reading, they don't like strong currents. Two, you only want about 6" of water. I'm not sure if this is a good call, but it's what I would go with. Fluval 206 might work here, but it might also be too strong. You can play with the output though (place it below rocks or something) to dampen the flow. ~$100 https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4

36" T5 Terrarium Hood + T5 UVB 10.0 bulb - $50 for the hood, $25 for the light, change every 6 months. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8FR4/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HKO

Ceramic Heat Emitter + CHE Dome - $20 for the CHE, $15 for the Dome. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter/dp/B001F9CV7K/ https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Sun-Dome-Reptile-Lamp/dp/B001OS0SB8

Air pump - Optional, $30 or so plus some air line/air stone. https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-30-60-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B00IZLRK36

$300 total for brand new equipment, not shopping around or anything. If you pick up some of this used you can probably do better.

I would make about a quarter of it to one side a few inches out of the water for him to rest and bask, place the heat lamp over this area. You can use larger rocks to pile up here to get it out of the water. Basking area should be 85-90 F. Gradually slope this down into the rest of the aquarium. Give him about 6" of water off the bottom of the substrate to swim in and decorate this however you see fit.

http://www.insectivore.co.uk/pdf/common_musk_turtle_caresheet.pdf

Feeding should be pretty much what I said before. As /u/Ra_Cha_Cha said, they love movement. I had a box turtle too, and while she got used to the usual greens and pellets, nothing got her quite as excited as seeing a wiggling worm.

MALE VEILED!! Those are the best to start with. Veileds are incredibly hearty for chameleons and they can be forgiving with new owners as you're learning about chameleon care/husbandry. Female Veileds are going to need to lay eggs, that is the one difference in regards to the different sex.

Here is a link to the FAQ's...

https://www.reddit.com/r/ChameleonsFAQ/

ASK QUESTIONS!, read through the side bar ------>

Make sure you get the basics down:

• Proper enclosure
  
  
• Proper lighting, you'll want to make sure you get a 5.0 UVB and a 60W incandescent bulb
  
  
• You'll need live plants, NOT FAKE ONES, and here is a list from FLchams.com, the most popular used are Umbrella, Hibiscus and Pothos. They're cheap and easy to care for, having live plants helps with holding humidity.
  
  
• Proper supplements, I like Repashy
  
  A WARNING... ~ There is tons of bad information out there regarding chameleon care/husbandry. A lot of what I find is incredibly outdated. This sub is one of the best places you can be, I've learned a lot by coming here years ago and I was doing too many things wrong based on what I "researched" on the www.
  
  Lastly, please don't let anyone tell you that Veileds are nasty, I've owned several, I currently have one and a Panther. With proper handling (which is pretty universal with all reptiles), they will learn to trust you and they can be pretty cool little buddies to hang with.
  
  I found one more thing regarding set-ups that I think would be helpful for you as well. Check out this link, it's in the FAQ section, but wanted to make sure you get a visual, and as well, there are notes in there regarding lighting as well.
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/ChameleonsFAQ/comments/4lo0xk/pictures_of_sample_enclosures/
  
  Good luck, and again, if you have any questions, please do! :)

I believe this is the one I use, but it would need to be put on a thermostat to make sure it doesn't overheat. I have mine under the "warm" side of the tank with a hide over it so they can feel secure and warm their bellies. I use paper towels on top. Then then cool side is where I have the humid hide for shedding assistance :)

Aw, poor baby! She is very lucky to have a caring home! Unfortunately not all PetSmarts are created equal and it sounds like you guys had a run in with a bad one :( I'm very glad they gave her to you so you could get her back on her little feet! I have a few Cresties that used to love love love crickets and now turn their noses up at them, so sometimes their tastes do change as they age. Have you tried Dubia or Black Soldier Fly Larve ("Calciworms")?

Thanks! It's a lizard lounger: https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-REP701-Seagrass-Triangular/dp/B013T6XPVC

I knew it would be way too big, but the material was perfect for climbing and had great structure, so I used some creative folding to turn it into a hut. The suction cups are attached with tied leather cord, so you can easily remove them and place only as needed. I'm just using one to anchor against the wall and the cord from another one to tie it together so it doesn't flop around.

Mentioned the reptile hammock in the post, but, admittedly, it's a novel so I don't think anyone read it :) Any ideas on the questions I had? I'm gonna clean it up a little...

I think $150 is a little low of an expectation for startup costs. I spent about $300 getting my guy set up, and part of that was experimenting with getting the drainage right. Later on I also spent $130 on a misting system, which broke about 2 months later. But I digress.

As for first time species, I think a male veiled would be a good choice. They are more forgiving of mistakes in husbandry (care and keeping) than other chameleons. They are also less expensive. The cons are that they often have a less friendly temperament than other species and don't have the crazy colors like panthers do.

I say male because then you don't have to deal with laying eggs, which females will do even without a male around.

Here is what I would consider a pretty comprehensive list of things you'll need:

1. Screen cage -- 18"x 18" x 36" (I got mine here http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-36-Inches/dp/B0027J0VZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369116670&sr=8-1&keywords=screen+cage)
   
   
2. thermometer and hydrometer gauges
   
   
3. Heat lamp fixture
   
   
4. Heat bulb -- believe it or not, a normal incandescent bulb you buy from walmart will do fine, as long as it's getting up to the right temperature. The "special" heat bulbs you buy at pet store chains are the exact same thing marked up. You may have to experiment with wattage. Do NOT go above 100 watts. I use 100 watts for my male veiled because I live in a basement and it is cold down here. Most people need 60-75 watts. For an adult veiled, the basking spot (directly under the light) should hit 90-95 fahrenheit, while the rest of the cage should gradually drop in heat from there to 70ish degrees at the bottom. Typically, a single basking spot that hits 90-95 will make the rest of the cage the appropriate temperature.
   
   
5. UVB bulb -- Absolutely necessary. Use a 5.0, not a 10.0. 10.0 is for desert animals. Here's more info on the UVB and why it's so important. http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/lighting/
   
   
6. Hood for the UVB bulb
   
   
7. dripper -- chameleons drink from dripping water only.
   
   
8. Mister -- hand mister or automatic mister if you can afford it. I use this one mister
   Some people have had them break easily but mine's never had a problem. A little spray bottle just won't cut it.
   
   
9. Vines and branches. You have a few options. Cheapest is to get your own branches and sterilize them. Next cheapest is dowels from a hardware store. The prettiest option is to get various vines and fake plants and branches from pet stores or online. Make sure to provide a lot of horizontal climbing space as well as vertical.
   
   
10. Plants. I highly recommend live plants vs fake because live plants hold water droplets and humidity better. I use Arboricola schefflera, other common ones are Ficus benjamina and Pothos. They are inexpensive and easy to find at the local hardware store :)
    
    
11. Supplements -- Calcium WITHOUT D3, Calcium with d3, and a reptile vitamin.
    
    
12. Cricket holder
    
    
    THINGS YOU SHOULD NOT BUY
    
    
13. No night heat bulbs! Chameleons can handle the drop in temperature at night and light at night interrupts their sleep cycle.
    
    
14. No substrate! It is too risky and has caused the death of many chameleons who have accidently ingested it. The only one that might be safe is the reptile carpet stuff.
    
    
15. No water bowls or waterfalls. Chameleons like to poop in them and also it's a risk of drowning. They won't drink from them.
    
    
    Basically, I am an insane chameleon mom and I know this might be overwhelming, but I just want to help. I have a lot more information about how to use supplements, feeding, water, and light schedules if you want it. Hope this helped and good luck with getting a chameleon!
    

For a 75gallon get one of these (Eco Earth):
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compressed-Coconut-Substrate/dp/B0010OSIHW
The two bricks should be enough and mix in with the sand real good. It'll help keep the humidity up and it's more like their natural environment. Make sure sand is sand-castle consistency. Not too dray or they won't be able to dig tunnels and not too wet that water pools end up on the bottom.

Read the stickied posts on top of the "topics" area and ask questions if you need more info here:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=26

Also - check out the shells from this seller on Etsy. I noticed the spiky one you have in the corner. They like "Turbo" shells much better. You'll be amazed how fast they switch in these shells (links below) and never use the one like you have showing again - see links below. Depending on the size of your crabs you'll need to figure out which ones you need.

A little smaller:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163508909/multipack-2-25-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_2

A little larger:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/163509545/multipack-15-2-tapestry-turbo-shell?ref=shop_home_active_12

I'd go with the larger ones probably as they'll wear them if they're too big and will always grow into them fairly quickly anyways.

Good luck!

This is the kind of bulb you are looking for. It supplies UVA and UVB.

You will need a lamp to put it in and either a clamp or a stand to fix it above your aquarium.

If you have farm suppliers in your area you could look for stock tanks like this. They will be cheaper than the size of aquarium you will need when the turtle is an adult (100gallons). This is of course when the turtle is older. Right now as a hatching the 13g is probably the best you're going to be able to do right now.

Be sure to create a platform that the turtle can use to get out of the water entirely to bask in the heat/UV lamp. The heat keeps the turtle warm and comfortable (being cold blooded) and the UV rays are essential to it's health and growth.

You should be feeding pellets for now but when the turtle is older and larger the diet will need to be changed. Please feel free to revisit this sub at that if you would like for more dietary information.

Good luck!

Cresties are a great starter pet! They are quite easy to keep. They are arboreal and do require a vertical enclosure with plenty of vines/ branches/ plants to climb on. They thrive in temps from 78F-65F. Don't allow the enclosure to go over 80 or under 65 though. Start with an enclosure this size and move up to something like this once the gecko reaches about 15-20 grams.

Cresties do very well on a powdered diet (mixed with water of course) such as Pangea or Repashy. My 3 year old girl really prefers the Pangea though. I definitely recommend it!

Cresties come in a variety of colors and patterns. If you want something basic you could buy one at your local pet store, but reptile expos are a much better place to buy live animals. Better colors, better breeding, and better prices! So do your research, and visit the next expo in your area.

Cresties should generally be house individually. Females can live together on occasion, but fighting can be a common occurrence. Please do not breed unless you have done lots of research, have high quality breeding stock, and feel that you can better the crested community with your offspring.

I've been told that heating pads aren't good because they don't heat the air well enough and a failure could burn your hedgie, so I stick with a lamp.

1. A thermostat is essential to keep the temperature regulated. I use this one. Look for one where the watts rating matches or exceeds your bulb's watts. Having the degrees printed on the dial is nice, but not really necessary. Place the probe at the furthest point away from the lamp. Edit: And it should have an automatic shut-off for failures!
   
   
2. You need at least one thermometer of course. I recommend one attached to the thermostat probe and one at the opposite end or maybe a bit closer to the center. That way you know if heat is being distributed evenly.
   
   
3. Next is your lamp. You'll want at least an 8" reflector dome, bigger distributes heat better. If you have a really long cage you might want two lamps. It's SUPER important that you get one with a ceramic or porcelain socket, NOT plastic. The one I linked is the one I use. The reviews are abysmal, but it's worked well with relatively light use for the last 6 months. The clamp is unusable though. For a while I had it laying flat on a metal grid on top of the cage. Now it's hanging from the cage wall with wire. The important thing is that it's secure and isn't touching anything that could melt or burn.
   
   
4. Last is your bulb, either a 100W or 150W ceramic heat emitter (CHE). Make sure you get one that doesn't give off light.
   
   And that's it!

Map turtles usually don't get as big as red eared sliders that you usually find in pet stores, but they do need large tanks. If he's already almost 3 inches long, I'd suggest getting a 40 gallon breeder tank. You will need a good filter, basking platform, good turtle food enriched with vitamins (I use ZooMed brand), a heater, and the correct lighting.

You are smart to wait until you have a tank set up before bringing him home, but just realize that this is a very long term commitment and the initial set-up will cost a lot more than you think!!

Turtles need both UVB and UVA light to grow healthy. The UVA will be a heat source for the turtle while the UVB will give the turtle much needed vitamins, just as if he were out in the sun. Don't trust any bulb that claims it gives off both UVA and UVB, you need two separate bulbs. I use this with my tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CYDEARU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you have any other questions :)

Edit: Oh, and I wouldn't worry about the UV bulbs being bad for your skin. The rays can't penetrate through glass, so you should be fine if you're looking through the glass. Any short amount of time you do come in contact with it, I doubt it will affect you at all. You definitely won't get a sunburn from a few minutes xD

Ok great, I would love to help out there.

First off, not a sand boa, don't use sand. There are very few reptiles that actually do well on sand, this is not one of them. Aspen will be fantastic.

Lamp vs Pad: Both will do fine. The difference is the lamp will be better at raising the ambient temperate and the basking (surface) temp. The pad will focus more on the ground temp. Ground heat is good for digestion, but most snakes also burrow to escape heat by instinct. The pads are also known to get very hot. A thermostat is pretty much required. On the other hand, you can't have a white bulb running at night. Grab a nocturnal heat bulb (blue, red, purple light).

Personally I usually use both on one side and put them on a thermostat. With a thermostat you really can't go wrong. The thermostat will decrease the lifespan of any incandescent bulb though.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B013T6XPVC/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WN09HY4YKXBJV845X4XM&dpPl=1&dpID=91UzoohAF3L
Spike has one of these and loves it! I'll 100% recommend it to anyone and everyone. It also comes in a few other shapes and sizes to fit your needs.

As for falling down....don't worry. Beardies are squishy and bounce back up; their only real defence from predators is to run away so they're made for it. Spike's taken a few jumps off the back of the couch (3-4ft) that have damn near given me a heart attack but she just keeps skittering on like nothing happened. She also dive bombs crickets in her cage which is hilarious to watch :) You getting a new beardie is making me all excited; you're going to have lots of fun, OP!

depending on the size of your terrariums, the mist maker may or may not not be practical. If you plan to run the mist maker 24/7, it will use >1gal/day. Also worth noting is the mist makers send out quite a bit of liquid water, not just mist.

I have mine set up (floating) in a 5gal bucket with a fan running into a hole in the lid and the mist comes out another hole in the lid.

Issues with this set-up: 1) I have to refill the bucket frequently. It uses a LOT of water 2) The lid, though mostly intact, does not completely block the stream of water (and water drops) that are sent out in addition to mist, so I must mop of the floor of my tent frequently. These are somewhat tedious to deal with, but the setup keeps my 16ft^3 tent humid and cool enough for n. dubia to pitcher inside.

If you have a smaller terrarium that can't handle the water output of one of these misters, I'd recommend something like a Reptifogger which has a lower output.

Also something worth noting: that specific mister (metal, not plastic) does not fit in the standard float which is on sale on amazon. I had to take a blowtorch to my float to stretch it out a little bit for mine to fit inside. The plastic ones fit better, but the metal ones seem to have more reliable output.

Before you handle your spider, you should be aware of a few things. Tarantulas are fragile, a drop is usually a death sentence, and they're frequently erratic, they'll bolt for almost no reason. As a general rule, if it drops from your hand to the floor, it will die. Any examples of exceptions to this should be taken as small miracles, and shouldn't be expected. They also don't have to capacity to learn the concept of "you", every time you pick them up is like the first time for them. They're also wild animals, there's always a chance for them to bite. As long as you understand all those things, and you're willing to accept the risks to both yourself and the animal, I'll continue:

Something in the Avicularia genus is probably going to be your best bet. It already sounds like you want to interact with your spider, and avics are in general pretty calm when being handled. They're also arboreal, or tree spiders, so they're a little better with falls, they're not as heavy.

Let's talk equipment:
Get the tarantula keeper's guide and read through it, before you get your spider preferably. It's going to be your bible for the first few months.
Tarantulas don't really have a lot of care requirements, and their equipment list is pretty short. An appropirately sized kritter keeper is usually fine. Not the best, but fine. You'll want a small bowl for standing water so it can keep itself hydrated if it needs to. You'll want some finely shredded coco fiber as a substrate. Finally, you'll defenitely need some 12 inch tongs for feeding. Since you want to handle, you'll need something soft to gently guide the tarantula, and I recommend a soft bristled paint brush and a deck of playing cards (one card at a time, of course)

He doesn't look too big, but some can grow really fast. This tank size may last you a couple months while you look for another. Supplies that you need ASAP are the UV light/Heater lamp and more water with filtration. When adding tap water remember to treat it with a dechlorinator that also gets rid of heavy minerals. If you're looking to save money on a tank, wait for a pet store nearby to have a dollar a gallon sale, or look locally for deals on used tanks w/ accessories on craigslist.

I recommended a thermometer for your water and basking area because particular species of turtles do better at different temperatures. I'm not sure what size that tank is but I'm guessing around 10-20g and would do well with a smaller heater. Your filtration should be rated 2-4 times the amount of water in your tank, and have 3 stages of filtration because they can be super messy.

P.S. If you know what size tank you have, and what you're planning to upgrade to I could recommend you some tank media that would work for you

Oh boo they don't work for me either, sorry! Try this:


Digital Thermometer

Thermometers/Thermostats that measure a whole room aren't telling you the temperature of your hedgie's tub on the floor! Make sure it's between 70-80 degrees! (Ideal is around 73-77)

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MD3MFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


CHE Bulb 100-150watts

Non-light emitting heat bulb. Red/Blue/Black bulbs emit light which messes up your hedgie's circadian rhythm. Decide which wattage you want by thinking about how cold it gets where you live and how good your normal house's heating system is. If your house stays relatively the same temperature all year, go with a 100w. If it's especially cold, go with 150w. ALSO depending on how big your set-up is, you might need a second bulb and lamp - I use 2x150w bulbs in Winter for a Sterilite tub set up - It's more efficient than heating the whole room (my house is old!). I also suggest having a spare bulb on hand just in case - you don't want to get stuck if one blows!

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F9CV7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Clamp Lamp

This is what your bulb sits in. The clamp means it can be affixed to the side of the cage quite easily - just make sure it's secure and won't fall in and land on your hedgie as they get VERY hot! As with the bulb, if you have a large cage, you might need two. Lots of owners will fashion a cover for their cage with a cooling rack and just rest the lamp on that. - like this: https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/permalink/527574797343810/?comment_id=582196128548343&offset=0&total_comments=6


http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Thermostat

This is what keeps your hedgie's cage at a relatively even temperature even when it gets colder at night. The clamp lamp/s plug/s into it and it turns them on and off depending how hot the thermostat is set for. When you first set it up (and when there are big weather changes) you will need to use your digital thermometer to make sure the thermostat is adjusted correctly. I have the sensor for the thermometer and thermostat next to each other and not directly under the heating lamp.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQD9A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my set up is as follows and should help you with your set up, assuming you're willing to invest in your animals husbandry and currently use a glass tank with a mesh top.

for each of my snakes I keep in tanks I have cypress mulch bedding, a hygrotherm controller, a reptifogger, a lamp dimmer switch, and a heat bulb that's too high wattage for what I need

I get the extra wattage on the bulb for a few reasons, mostly because it gives me a larger range that I can adjust with the lamp dimmer switch and this way I can easily bump up the temps if any of them start to exhibit RI symptoms.

the hygrotherm sensor is placed inside of the tank right around the middle of the enclosure, I keep it set to maintain 50-60 percent humidity 90% of the time, and when the snake is in shed I bump it up to 80% from the time they start to go blue, to the time they finish sloughing their skin.

by using the hygrotherm/reptifogger combination, it's incredibly easy to keep my snake happy and healthy and still keep them on display so my friends and I can peak in anytime without having to disturb them in a tub.

here are the links for what I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IJXD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (reptifogger, currently pretty inexpensive relatively speaking)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IHK9Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (hygrotherm controller)

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427830822&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer+switch (dimmer switch)

My only suggestions are to get digital thermometers with probes, one for cold side and one for the warm, because they're more accurate. We use these because they're cheap but still accurate. Also the log hide isn't very enclosed so I'd suggest modifying it to close off one end or getting something more enclosed like these. As for the humid hide, or really any hide you want to use them for, the ones you asked me about on my post are awesome for keeping in heat/humidity. The tops are removable too so they're easy to manage. Here's the link again for those.

Besides that, you're set up looks great! You're washing the repti carpet as often as you're supposed to, so you're good there too!

I would recommend a 20 gal tank. A ten gallon would probably be fine while they are baby’s, but you’ll have to upgrade eventually so I would recommend just starting with the 20. If money really is no object then you may want to look into one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B000I1QYLK or https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B000OAYXTK?th=1&psc=1
This will give you more options for decorations, easier access to your frogs, an area designed for the water absorbing part of your substrate, and a tank that’ll be big enough for them as adults. If done right, all you’ll have to do is drain the water occasionally. I highly recommend watching https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUlxEsBwkrS02wkRMVheyyQ this guys channel. He’s a bit dry, but will give you all the info you need for setting up a tank for the first time. Hope it helps and enjoy your darts = D

So I'm a first-time grower, ambient temperatures are currently in the 50s, and what I'm (about to be) doing is somewhat unconventional. I'm offering it as an idea but I'm also hoping to get some critical input. Right now I've got grain jars (destined for a monotub) colonizing on my dresser, using a 1500W space heater to keep my entire room around 80F when I'm home. This isn't my long-term plan, though.

I was considering a heat pad, controlled by a thermostat, but I was concerned about overheating the bottom of the substrate. For all I know, these fears may be completely unfounded, so shroomers feel free to call me an idiot. Anyway, here's what I'm doing instead. (Same idea for heating both my spawn jars and my mono.)

I purchased the following:

• Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand, Full Size
  
• Fluker's Sun Dome Reptile Lamp - Large Deep Dome Fixture
  
• BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter
  
• Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat & Habitat Lighting Temp. Controller, 500W
  
  The idea is to have a 150W ceramic heat emitter suspended above the tub (or tray of jars). Direct radiant heat is apparently not good for our friends, and I don't know how well a transparent polypropylene lid will absorb the IR, so I'll toss some cotton garments on top of the lid to absorb the heat and conduct it gently into the tub. The thermostat's sensor will be embedded in the substrate, and I'll use temperature strips placed at various points to "calibrate" it.
  
  Given that this will be in a confined closet and the heat will be focused on my grow, I'm hopeful that 150W will be enough, at least to reach a decent fruiting temperature. And I figure this solution will be gentle on the little guys, won't dry the air, and won't pose a fire hazard. But I haven't heard much about people going this route, which leads me to wonder if there's a flaw I've failed to consider...
  
  Edit: MY IDEA SUCKS. In the close confines of my closet, the 150W bulb didn't take long to start melting the lid of my tub. I went and bought a $40 radiator at Home Depot like a normal human being.

as others have mentioned relocation stress is a thing. they sometimes don't eat for the first few days you have them. but getting them comfortable will speed up your time table a little bit.

​

I highly recommend you live feed them some feeder insects https://dubiaroaches.com/collections/bearded-dragons you can get the baby bearded dragon variety pack and it seems to be a pretty balanced diet for baby beardies. it has baby Dubai roaches and nutriworms or soldier fly larva whatever you want to call them.

​

Here are my recommended reads from the sidebar for new dragon tamers

• basic cheat sheet https://imgur.com/a/CrvIE
  
• to determine if food is good or bad for your dragon check out this link http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
  
• Guide on Bearded dragons https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4-LK25H4wfvMFJTVXJZaUExT3M/edit
  
  i think pet smart calls dubia roaches spotted roaches if I remember right. they are expensive there though thats why I linked the site. the problem with shipping roaches is they might die when it is to cold out so you have to get them inside asap I use a cricket container to hold them since they can't fly they tend to climb into the tubes it makes it easier to feed them. I like to have 2 containers so that between shipments i can clean out the containers without having to deal with them.
  
  ​
  
  Hope this helps :D

With aboreal species, impaction really isn't a risk. Your focus is more on keeping the humidity in the enclosure up constantly, which is where the coco fiber and similar mixes come into play. Eco soil mixed with sphagnum moss would be another viable option. Orchid bark mixture (wood chips/moss/soil/etc mixture) would be a third. With orchid bark mix, you'd have to find one that doesn't contain any additives and plant food. For example you would not want to just grab a bag of Miracle Gro orchid mix off the shelf at Walmart.

In regards to treats. I wouldn't do absolutely anything until he is routinely eating the Pangea. With food already switching, he needs to view the one new thing as food for a while. Once he's consistently eating the food that he needs to be eating, then you might worry about a rare treat. It would honestly be better to just get some different flavors of pangea to rotate through rather than go through the trouble of blending bugs and fruit and pollen. With how picky he already is, it's unlikely he'll even touch it. He'll settle into one flavor of Pangea and that will probably be that.

Another thing you can do to maximize the enclosure space in his current and future cage is to add some climbing vines (again, secure with twist ties, some also come with suction cups) and perhaps a piece of hollow driftwood (somewhat poor example, but something like this). Both can typically be found at a reptile supply store. The latter you might have more luck with at an aquarium store.

Make sure that the new cage is well ventilated. In addition, no need for UVA or UVB lights, or heat. They're a nocturnal species and room temps are typically sufficient.

Oh then check out this channel for direct Leopard Gecko care, and this channel for gold nuggets of care tips. I recommend going with reptile carpet or eco earth. Good luck!

We were told to use Eco-Earth or other pet friendly soils. I hoping that was good information because, fun fact: rats like to eat dirt lol

The UTH on one side is probably good enough. BPs are generally fine with the regular ambient lighting in the room already. Just get a thermometer with a probe so you can stick it down in the substrate where the UTH is and then monitor the temp on that. Make sure you have hides on both the cool and warm sides too.

EDIT: Also, as far as humidity goes, I use this to check my temps/humidity. One of the probes can be placed in the substrate on the warm side where the UTH is, and the other can be placed in a general area to gauge the humidity. It works really well for me and it's really easy to use. I also use two stick on thermometers from Petco on each side to get a general idea of the temps in there. Just a suggestion.

Thank you, I will definitely go shopping for an umbrella plant ASAP! Will the monsoon misting system be ok for him or would he prefer a drip system? The supplements I purchased are Zoo Med Reptivite (with D3) and Zoo Med Repti Calcium (with D3). I plan on dusting his food with calcium 3x a week and the vitamin once a week. Thank you for your help, I'm so excited for my little guy!

Looks like it's one of the coated wire variety, like so: https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-SFK51019-Branch-Habitat/dp/B0009YEB52

They're strong enough to support smaller snakes free-standing since it uses a lower-gauge (thicker) wire as the core. Just twist it around into a sturdy shape and you're good to go.

For the love Pete.

1. She shouldn’t be in a box. She needs to be a screened enclosure, something like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=reptibreeze&qid=1564186636&s=gateway&sr=8-2
   
2. If you’re actually giving her supplements like you say you are - you’re over dosing her on D3. You should have 2 kinds of calcium to dust with. One with D3 and one without. The one WITHOUT you should dust lightly with when you feed her every other day (if she’s an adult, which it looks like she is). You could probably do every other feeding. The one WITH D3 you should dust lightly with maybe twice a month, so bi weekly.
   
3. If you can’t at least making these changes and make them quickly, along with a visit to an exotic vet, give her to someone who can.

https://www.amazon.com/Vivian-Reptile-Warmer-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01M7SP67V - a heat matt ive used since christmas. its fairly resilient and works fine in my bioactive 20 gal setup so you shouldnt have any problems. id recommend the 7watt.

yeah i mean i feed mine crickets primarily, i sometimes throw in dubia roaches or a wax worm for a treat but my gecko wont eat meal worms either so its really fine. make sure you dont mix vitamins - give pure calcium to vitamin/mineral powder in a 5:2 ratio (3:1 if youre feeding every other day). dont but calcium with d3, it should be pure calcium and a vitamin and mineral powder should be used separately.

here’s what i use:
v/m powder: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptivite-Vitamin-2-Ounce/dp/B0002AQB6A

calcium powder: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-without/dp/B000UJPHL8

Thanks for all the advice so far. It's been difficult not knowing where to look for guidance as newbies. However, my girlfriend and I are really committed to giving him a great home. It's sad we haven't been the best chameleon parents yet.
Financially, I cannot afford to spend a couple hundred tomorrow, but i can within the next week or so for sure. I would appreciate any tips about how to prioritize. What are your thoughts on this cage?https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PHABI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484552202&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+cage&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BD-HmI2eL&ref=plSrch
I would like to get it tomorrow as i think a new habitat is the biggest priority right?
Also, since the new UVb bulb will be very hot at first, should I just keep his red light on him constantly for the next few days? Or should i introduce the incandescent bulb tomorrow and wait on the UVb still? I just want to do everything I can to prevent his eye getting worse while making sure he is warm enough. We keep him in a finished basement that rarely dips below 70.

Cresties love to climb, I saw some awesome mushroom looking vertical cage decos on amazon he'd probably love.

Edit: Couldn't find the mushroom ledges again but I found some other cool stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnaturals-Small-Feeder-Ledge-Earth/dp/B00481MPTG/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1495220950&sr=8-53&keywords=reptile+cage+decorations

https://www.amazon.com/Magnaturals-Gecko-Ledge-Mojave-Magnetic/dp/B00DOZH9PM/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1495220950&sr=8-58&keywords=reptile+cage+decorations

https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-SFK51019-Branch-Habitat/dp/B0009YEB52/ref=pd_sim_199_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YEB52&pd_rd_r=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9&pd_rd_w=xvi8N&pd_rd_wg=sAbVh&psc=1&refRID=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Naturalistic-Bolivian-Croton/dp/B0002DIUPW/ref=pd_sim_199_79?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002DIUPW&pd_rd_r=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9&pd_rd_w=xvi8N&pd_rd_wg=sAbVh&psc=1&refRID=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9

Needs some more decoration and stimulation for the dragon! Give it more places to hang out in. The double lamp will be okay for a little while, but I highly recommend you get a large basking lamp for the warm side and a UVB tube (reptisun 10.0) that covers the rest of the tank so there's nowhere that the light isn't covering. Also, the hammock definitely should be raised a bit, if it's on the floor there's really no point in it. Finally, get another, perhaps bigger bowl. You should have one for worms and one for a salad every day. A water bowl is optional.

Overall, about a 5/10. It's a good starting place.

Link for reptisun: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2BN7HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jJKBzbR93V32J
(The actual hood for this could be found at a pet store or online, I got mine at petco)

The hood I use for my basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OS0SB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nKKBzb8KP9T4W

My basking bulb itself (or at least similar enough to it): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRJXJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ILKBzb8CFDQNE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521244990&sr=8-1&keywords=che+bulb+150+watt&dpPl=1&dpID=51CtCt4oNLL&ref=plSrch

Amazon has them sale also! But yes yours will work :)

Try forest floor for humidity issues. It's great bc when humidity falls you can mix a cup of water in it

I ask:
OP what part of the world are you in where you have to keep this animal in a box like this?

You answer:
> Its a 3 by 2 cage?

That makes about as much sense as telling me what color it is.

> Its a repti calcium brand.

That's not the brand.
The brand is "Zoo Med" and the product is ReptiCalcium (w/ D3?)
But with these symptoms, I think you're using reptivite

IF it is, then we specifically tell people to NOT use that stuff

So... you're still not answering my basic questions.
Please do so if you want to help the veiled.

I see multiple problems here with basic husbandry to be perfectly honest that are all avoidable and shouldn't happen.

The animal is suffering as a result.

I'm looking at a lot fo orange yellow urinates on the branches
Swollen joints, underweight and kept in a box.

I completely agree with this, I find 3724 to be the best for my personal taste. I brew it a lot and every time it does the same thing. When it stops at the 1.03# range at the 70ish degree initial fermenting temp I wrap it in one of these http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS and stick it in a closet for 3-4weeks and it slowly ferments out the rest of the way. Flavor comes out great this way for me.

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

I'd recommend a couple hammocks! I got mine off Amazon and my beardie LOVES IT

Penn Plax REP701 Lizard Lounger, 100% Natural Seagrass Fibers For Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs Triangular 14 x 14 Inches Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M2y4CbHSRS7K3

Looks like healthy mycelium to me. Your substrate looks like that coconut mulch type stuff, though, which isn't ideal. You're on the right track though, there's a finer soil-type coconut substrate, that looks like this, that works better.

Teh bubbleh worked pretty well for me, and it's easy to make. The ultrasonic humidifier crapped out part way through my second grow, though, so I switched to perlite and fanning.

Once I start seeing some profits I will probably either replace the ultrasonic or invest in one of these terrarium humidifiers

> ivermectin wormer

That is an extremely harsh wormer well known to cause issues in dragons- Panacur is what was needed.
This is why you need a reptile vet.
Was a fecal even done to confirm pinworms?

Get yourself some Bene-Bac gel probiotic at any pet shop. Make sure your temperatures are warm enough- the surface of your basking spots should be 105-110ºF. Offer a very wide variety of food- moist things like black soldier fly larvae are very useful.
Then cross your fingers and try to get food into her- Carnivore Care would be good.

I use one that uses a probe to monitor the temp. It's actually this one. It works surprisingly well, and it's light enough that you can hot glue the probes down the back, and even glue it to the front of the enclosure to make it look nice. With that being said, sometimes he will still get the probes unstuck, but it doesn't happen very often, and the dry hot glue is a pretty harmless adhesive ime

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

Hi, thanks for watching out for us! He's got these lights as well as living in this [cage] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J0VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419894029&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40). I'll try to get pics for y'all! Anything else we need for this guy? Thanks!

Edit: I'll let you know the light strength when my gf gets home.

Are you going to upgrade once she gets bigger? That size is a bit small for a full size adult. My adult male loves the next bigger size up of that one (He's over 120g and fits fine)!

I use this hide for all my geckos young and old. They really love it, even though it's snug for the adults.

And do you have a moist hide too?

I had the same issues with my RTB in a glass terrarium. 3 things will help you immensely. 1: Get some closed cell construction foam sheeting from Lowes and line the back, bottom, and sides of the habitat. 2: Get some plexiglass and cover part of the top. I have several sheets so I can adjust the air/humidity. I maintain 60-80% RH with only half covered because of the next tip. 3: Get an ultrasonic mister element. Some people say their snakes won't drink/bathe if the fogger is in their drinking water (and they make external mount ones as well), by my snake puts her head on top of the fogger. haha.
Photos 1 2 3

If your outdoor temps are reasonable, then I would do as you suggest. You might want to start weaning them off the heat lamp. I spent the bucks on a ReptiTemp 500R thermostat to power my heat lamp.

Lots of people keep chicks in the garage until they are feathered out or the outdoor temps are acceptable. Just keep them away from hazards like sharp stuff, chemicals, fumes, dogs.

I use sand for chick bedding because it is so easy to clean up and harmless if they eat it. They will kick whatever their bedding is all over the garage, so choose something you can tolerate.

Would something like this work for the digital thermometer/hygrometer? https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B004PBB1XU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497236584&sr=1-3&keywords=digital+thermometer+hygrometer+reptile

I have one of the thermometers with the probe that I have been using for the temperature and hadn't even thought of somthing like that for the humidity. Thank you!

And I will work on the hides and clutter this week. (His current favorite spot is actually in the middle under the water bowl, its darkest and definitely the smallest area for him to hide).

You don't really need a block. Most people use the calcium powder (Also look into versions without vitamin D3, buy both with and without) that you can find at nearly any store. Pet stores certainly will have it, but WalMart near my house has it as well, even though the reptile/fish selection is limited to one half an aisle. Also put some of the calcium without D3 in a little dish (I use a milk jug lid) and they'll take part if they feel like they need more calcium.

Calcium Without D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper)

Non Add-On Item

Calcium With D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper but a lot smaller)



Non Add-On Item

Also look into a separate vitamin.

This will give you the options necessary for size and with/without D3.

I keep my turtle tank bare because they can create a lot of waste but if you want to spruce it up a bit you can add some river rocks! Make sure to wash them a bit since they are a slightly dusty

Exo Terra Turtle Pebbles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035HD408/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZMODb2Y843TK

Also I dunno if Tuck has a uvb or heat bulb? He'll need those to properly shed and prevent metabolic bone disease

This is what I have for my girl

Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle UVB Heat Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYDEARU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g7MODb4DVDTNA

Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255OUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99MODbSNSH1X9


Hygger Submersible Aquarium Heater, Adjustable Fish Tank Heater Compact Reliable Betta Heater, Heat-Resistant Milky Quartz Made, with External Temp Controller, 50W/100W/300W, 7-60 Gallon (300W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4BKPHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f.MODbB3P6Q26

I hope this helps you out!

I just put mine together this weekend.

• I picked up this 7.1 cu ft chest freezer that is on sale at Lowe's. Combined it with a 10% coupon I found on eBay for $1.
  
  
• Plugged it into the cooling outlet of an Inkbird ITC-308
  
  
• Threw in this dehumidifier
  
  
• Then laid down and taped a reptile terrarium heating cable. And plugged it into the Heating outlet of the Inkbird controller. There are other options for heating, but I found this locally at a really good price.
  
  Around $220 for everything, but you can fit two 6 gallon carboys and two 3 gallon carboys or a few 1 gallon jugs on the hump.

Penn Plax REP701 Lizard Lounger, 100% Natural Seagrass Fibers For Anoles, Bearded Dragons, Geckos, Iguanas, and Hermit Crabs Triangular 14 x 14 Inches Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6jHVCbTCA1HQF

I bought this one for mine, it has adjustable suction cups so you can put it anywhere. It really adds a new dimension to their hide and I think mine love it cause it covers a good portion of their tank so they feel even more hidden when outside of their hides

Reptihabitat kit $154 and that's overpriced considering how much of the stuff in it you'll just throw away. You can get a 20 long and a folding screen top from Petsmart for about $50 and the 2 light dome for another $50.

https://www.petsolutions.com/C/Reptile-Habitats/I/Zoo-Med-ReptiHabitat-Bearded-Dragon-Kit.aspx?catargetid=520009670000580654&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac2ZBedmIdyBdq_7s09x4txgNz-FvlD5uiNVmX3KfTKu4lo9XpjanfBoCGVUQAvD_BwE

14" t5 hood $38.80

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium/dp/B00M9ONY1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887235&sr=8-1&keywords=14%22+t5

Half log $8.60

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Habba-Extra-Large/dp/B0010ONMV4/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-7&keywords=reptile+hide

Hide XL $25.98

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Extra-Large/dp/B0002AR5BA/ref=sr_1_21?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-21&keywords=reptile+hide

12" t5 10.0 Bulb $20.77

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1DY82E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=9dlUL&pf_rd_r=5FMKXWA2ASD8TY18EGDD&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00N1DY82E&pd_rd_w=bTBUC&pf_rd_i=14%22+t5&pd_rd_r=GGP34DN67RR24AP1GD50&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887808&sr=2

Everything you see here can be had for $248.15 brand new. As soon as you walk out the door of the pet store, that stuff is worth less than half that. Also considering that this setup is not going to work for an adult and it becomes even less desirable. If I were looking to sell this setup I would sell on craigslist and consider myself extremely fortunate to get $100 for it all.

2. These work awesome. I currently use one (a longer version due to the size of my chamber) and I have zero complaints. Heats the chamber up pretty quickly and doesn't feel like a fire hazard like some of the options do.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1419442900&sr=1-3&keywords=zoomed+heat+cable

Take a look at reptile heat rope it provides even, safe heat. It works great for a fermentation chamber.

Would this work?


http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414967795&sr=1-1&keywords=eco+earth



And this is what I cant use?

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-SZMEE10-1-Brick/dp/B007C8580K/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414967880&sr=1-5&keywords=eco+earth

Also thanks for the link, it was very helpful. Also the spawn to sub ration is 1:2?

Looks like you’ve got a real nice setup there. As far as lighting goes you’ll need the normal heat and UVB bulbs. You could probably use a 50-75w bulb for heating and similarly sized UVB bulb (13w 5.0 I believe). Something like this would give you everything in one package:


https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Turtle-Lighting/dp/B00CYDEARU

I can't see the animal clearly but I suspect it's not healthy. I would be leery.

Edit: Oh and those lights aren't the best for the cham's health. The tube bulbs are honestly the way to go. The cage looks to be a proper size for a veiled, they only really use the top 1/3 of the cage.


As to the value of the offer. Reptibreeze cage 24" x 24" x 48" is only $95 USD on Amazon. Proper lighting is about $30-40 from a hardware store and the T8 5.0 UVB bulbs are about $20.

This is what I did. Also, these work great and don't produce light if you have glass fermentors and are worried about "light struck" off flavors (but make sure your base can handle 150W): https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q

Then I put a small computer fan in in the chest freezer to circulate air and create a breeze against the fermenter to force convective heat transfer.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Cricket-Pen-Size/dp/B0073KOGOG/ref=br_lf_m_ww83k73y62454pn_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pet-supplies is my favorite of the 2 I use. They only say for 100 but we have done a bit over 250 and almost none died they just crawl like 40-50 in each of 4 tubes and then rest at bottom. You wouldn't be able to keep 250 all the time but we buy them that many and after a day or 2 it's down to more manageable numbers

Searching.... searching..... this!
And it's on sale. Lucky you. :)

I bought mine off of Amazon. They're really nice and would recommend getting one. Sorry for the long link, I'm on mobile and don't know how to format.

Link: Penn-Plax 14x14" Lizard Lounger, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_lkTRL1zlGFkik

He's a veiled. Male. Here are some pictures of him and his set up.
Diggit 1
Diggit 2
Diggit 3
Diggit 4
About 2 weeks ago
Setup

His cage is a Reptibreeze
(http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-36-Inches/dp/B0027J0VZ6/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_8)

Have been feeding him crickets from the local PetSmart
I'm aware that his lighting is with a Reptisun bulb, unsure of wattage.
Live in an apartment in Maryland so actual sunlight isn't the easiest to provide as a college student and part time employee. He has been outside before and seemed to enjoy it.
We have used Reptivite to dust his crickets before, just haven't recently. The vet just called saying that they haven't been able to get blood work or fecal samples yet, as he's somewhat dehydrated. But so far he has low bone density.

At this point, I need to do everything that I can to provide the best for him. Any ideas on what to do? Also to ensure that our other one, whom we purchased this past weekend, won't end up like this.

Thank you so much. This has all been so helpful.

How many crickets per day? You should supplement what the crickets are eating by dusting them with calcium powder when you feed them to the chameleon. This is a well reviewed calcium supplement without vitamin d3. You will want to give him calcium with vitamin D3 a couple times a month. Here is an example of that.

Calcium helps with muscle control and a deficiency could be contributing to your chameleon's prolapse.

definitely want to leave the heat lamp on at all times. is it light emitting, and you're worried about the light?

this is what i've been using with success (the lamp it fits in must have a porcelain socket or it will burn itself out prematurely): BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQD9A

Honestly this really is a much safer/better trustworthy product, the rheostat only has three settings whereas this can be set almost anywhere on the board. its an on/off style thermostat. ( Rheostats basically throttle electricity versus cut it off)

I haven't had a single cricket escape from the cricket cage I bought (at least I haven't found or heard any...).

My SO likes it because you don't have to touch any crickets or even open the cage to feed, when I am away.

I have read that these ceramic heat lamps work well too with a temperature controller. Has anyone had experience using them?

BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter Brooder Coop Pet Infrared Lamp Bulb, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GW0JAbQAFR4F7

Zilla Premium Reflector Dome, Black 5.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TZ1XH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ0JAbQSB8WYF

Edit - reread the post, this probably doesn’t make sense to use without a chamber... but I think it’s supposed to be a good cheap option if you do get a fermentation chamber.

The only good to come out of the “cage” is for young babies. And even then this doesn’t have much ventilation. A screened cage is what you’ll need.


a cage like this is what you’ll need

Edit: link

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523557527&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+hide

I bought one of these and I put a damp paper towel on the inner roof it and eco earth (coco fiber) and sphagnum moss and mine love it

Carnivore Care is an excellent source for ferrets recovering from an illness. It has helped many of my ferrets.
https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0

Oh, he's the one that's been bombarding me for years with all of the reptile facts and care information on the planet. Even knows the best local reputable breeders. The terrarium I picked out is an ExoTerra 20 gallon and the branches I put on the list are a formable sort of branch that you can position. I read that they don't need a heated rock (I had an iguana when I was young that did require this) but that you can use bulbs in a reflector light fixture at one end/side.

It's a cling on one by All Living Things, and I got it at PetSmart! Link!


It was a dome fixture that came with a kit(It's kinda cheap but it works), It came with two. Also, I was using this PetSmart brand bulb that was a 100 watts,(brand was All Living Things, DO NOT get it. Total crap), and another 150 watt house hold bulb and had to use both of those to get to 105. It was bad. But, Since that damn 100 watt went out (in less than a month) I gave in and bought a ZooMed Basking bulb from PetSmart, It was about $20 for 2. But, here it's 10 for two(never knew or I would have got it, oh well!) So, it'll save me a trip when this one goes out.

You could probably use a dome like this. or this And this one I had to raise it because it got to 116 and it was too hot.

Just make sure the bulbs wattage doesn't exceed what it says it can take on the little sticker.

I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422038811&sr=8-4&keywords=reptile+heater+cable wrapped around the inside of my chest freezer. It could easily hit 100F in my 7 cf freezer. If you want higher temps, go for more wattage. Your fridge/freezer will be fine.

I designed and got a custom fiberglass tank molded, designed with slopes and basking platforms, costs about 300+ usd? Can't remember. Lots of places does this.

But the slopes will be real slipper and I had to glue small rocks on them (aquarium safe silicon gel) for the RES to climb. Though they still prefer just struggle up from the sides.

It was big enough for me to throw 2 of something like this and let them use it to chill / assist them to climb up the platform.

https://www.universalrocks.com/fish/backgrounds/ledge-style/24x12-ledge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=twister_B00UKU5Z14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.etsy.com/listing/484539657/corner-pet-hammock-brown-hues-with-hooks?ref=shop_home_active_16

These three are my favorite purchases. The hammock in particular because I couldn't find any other ones that were not green.

Here's a link for it on amazon so you can read the other reviews if you like http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4

I see, the one you were likely looking at was the led deluxe. Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, Extra Large, 24 x 24 x 48-Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7RScBb7XZY2HD
That ones $100, pretty much the cheapest you'll find unless you build one

I ordered mine off amazon. My leos actually really like it too! I’m always refilling their little calcium dishes.

You can get submerged ultrasonic foggers like these or humidifiers with a tube attached

Source: My fucking vivarium

Technically you're supposed to purchase it from a vet (and obviously if other insects don't work you'll probably need to visit one) but it's also available on Amazon - this is what I use. I still use it every once in a blue moon - like last month when we had -20 temperatures for a week and the crickets were delayed.

I need this carnivore care pet supplement for my sick ferret Dodger. He's having trouble with solid foods so I can use this to make liquid soup for him. Thanks for doing this contest, you're great!

Here's a list of everything I bought to set up, excluding decoration (you can go as expensive or as cheap as you would like in that department):

20 gallon tank - $32.99

Top for the tank $25.28

Heat Mat - $17.46

Dimmer for the Heat Mat (to control temperature) - $12.75

Tile - $0.88/each x 10 = $8.80

Calcium with D3 (for dusting food) - $8.69

Calcium without D3 - $5.41

Digital Thermometer - $6.99

Hygrometer (to measure humidity) - $6.99

And, of course, the gecko - ~$30.00


Total: $155.36

Then, you'll still need to buy or make hides and buy crickets/kricket keeper/food for the crickets and/or mealworms/food for the mealworms.


Disclaimer: I may be forgetting something, I'm not at home right now.

I have an Ultratherm under tank heater mounted on the side of my tank for heat. The flexible heater is covered in styrofoam insulation from Home Depot. In addition, I have a red 60W lamp in a hood over the top. Together, these two provide enough heat for a 30 gallon (30"x12"x18") tank.

For humidity, I have a reptifogger.

I control both temp and humidity with ZooMed's Hygrotherm.

It's kind of pricey, but it allows me to go away for a week without having to worry about humidity.

I would use this setup until he is a little older. A good adult cage for a veiled might be this.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2

My gecko seems to like this one a lot .

I have a 23cu ft upright freezer I use as a ferm chamber and I heat it with one single ceramic bulb. I can even maintain over 100 deg F while kettle souring with it. One like this one.

These are terrible. For snakes, you want to ditch the coloured bulbs & go for ceramic emitters (http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q) in a porcelain clamp lamp such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Deluxe-Porcelain-8-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQCXM/ attached to a stand such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Stand-Economy/dp/B000HG76B8 (highly recommended as ceramic emitters are a large fire hazard, reaching over 700f) . Exo terra terraniums such as http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Short-Terrarium-12-Inch/dp/B008N9LYJ6 are great for beginner snakes which don't have unusually high humidity requirements (mesh tops found on glass tanks let out lots of humidity compared to e.g. plastic tubs with air holes melted via soldering iron). While the ceramic emitter will raise the ambient temperature, your snake will also want a very warm spot to go to for belly heat to aid digestion, so a heat mat such as http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm®-Heater-Medium/dp/B0002AQCL4/ attached to a thermostat such as http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is highly recommended. The thermostat is not optional as heat mat's reach over 105f which can be fatal. As for supplementary light in e.g. winter, snakes have no special requirements as compared to other reptiles for uva/uvb, so any desk lamp or room lighting would suffice. As for decoration, snakes don't care. Hides can be made out of cereal boxes, butter containers etc, substrate can be newspapers, shredded tissue paper (not shredded paper as it causes cuts), or you can research more professional substrate for your specific snake (beware the earthy substrate which can cause impactation/death if ingested, also wood chips can harbour mites - simple paper is often better!). As for monitoring humidity/temperature within the tank, the analogue ones suck. I would recommend a digital one such as http://www.amazon.com/Avianweb-Digital-Thermo-Hygrometer-Black/dp/B00U2S6JSC/ - even if 10% out as per reviews, they are better than analogues which are 20-30%+ out and get more inaccurate over time. Finally, not required, but useful is an ir gun such as http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ so that you can get a sense of the surface temperatures around the tank that your snake is crawling across, and to ensure your hot hide is within parameters and not lethally exceeding 105f.

Maybe? They make bigger ones http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0X97JFSD5FBXSE8RD0XS

The first review I read: "I use this heater cord inside a refrigerator that I stripped out to make a fermentation chamber for homebrewed beer. I use a STC-1000 aquarium temperature controller to control the cool side of temperature and then I use this reptile heater cord to warm things up if the temperature gets too low overnight or in winter. I am controlling temperatures somewhere between high 40s to low 50s for lager and low 60s to low 80s for ales. This is a good price for the heater side of things and works very well at holding temperatures precisely."

Another one said it worked for a 4.4 cu ft fridge.

> Also, humidity is still low. Low 50's, about 52. How can I raise that? His water dish can't get much bigger so I don't know the next step.

Better substrate. I recommend the coconut fiber substrate that's fairly common. Also, if you're using a glass aquarium, I recommend covering most of the screen top with aluminum foil or something similar. This will help keep the humidity you generate in the tank.

> It looks like he began shedding before I got him. Now the skin is peeling off in somewhat random spots. Head and neck seem fine but the body is scattered. Could this have to do with the humidity? What should I do about it?

Yeah. This is a bad shed and is very much due to low humidity while shedding. Humidity needs to be around 60% during a shed. In the meantime, you can soak him. Get a small tub with lid. Poke some holes in the lid and fill it halfway or so with water. Then put the snake in and put the lid on. You can leave him in for 15 minutes or so (checking on him every couple min). After that, take him out and put him in a towel. Hold the towel and let him crawl through it on his own while you loosely grip him using said towel. The stuck shed should come off very easily this way.

I'm a fan of the ZooMed ReptiTemp 500R.

I’m just gonna go off, this will be long as hell. It’s currently really early in the morning so sorry for any formatting/spelling.

• a terrarium. I currently have a 10 gallon since my frog is still small but I’ll probably go up to 20-30 gallon which isn’t necessarily obligatory as they don’t move that much. I wouldn’t personally wouldn’t recommend going under 10.
  
  
• a mesh lid. This doesn’t regularly come with the terrarium and you’ll have to buy one that fits appropriately with the size of your tank.
  
  
• Day and night light stand. an example, this is what I have.
  
  
• UV day bulb, and a night bulb. Make sure to flip the lights over whenever you wake up and whenever you go to bed so he gets a cycle of day and night. find example here, not a huge fan of these ones but you might like it
  
  
• a thermostat and hydrometer. I have one that sticks to the inside wall of my tank. I found that putting it closer to the bottom will give you a more accurate reading of the temperature and humidity. I keep my frog’s temp at a steady 80° Fahrenheit and about 65 - 80% humidity. an example of thermostat plus hydrometer
  
  
  
• substate. Make sure it’s wet but not soppy and give it a good spray at least twice a day. an example
  
  
• shading/ a place to hide. You can plant safe plants in their terrariums but I prefer just to add some fake plants.
  
  
• a water dish that he can get in and out of. If he goes in it by himself then the substrate isn’t wet enough. They absorb water through their skin and need to basically constantly be damp.
  
  
• for food I personally feed crickets, mealworms, and wax worms. I again personally use tweezers to pick the bug up and put them in front of mine so it doesn’t run away from me and get lost. I’ll occasionally dip the bugs in calcium powder as well. Be careful with waxworms, pinky mice, and other fatty foods as the frog could get overweight.
  BE WARNED: crickets stink af and even in their little bug home you can smell it from afar. Not to mention their food stinks and they die easy. Buy the smaller ones if you can, I’ve noticed they smell a lot better and don’t die as quickly.
  
  
• don’t move or hold the little dude to much as it stresses them out.
  
  
• if you’re gonna let bugs roam in the terrarium clean it out once every week. I personally clean mine about every 3 weeks but I don’t keep bugs in there.
  
  I hope this helps! If I think of anything else I’ll add it here. Also if you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask.

For what it's worth, as someone who has received a tarantula as a gift before (hilariously enough, it was a g. pulchra): think about the enclosure too. Pick up a small exoterra breeder box, a bit of coco earth, and a small fake plant or hide (I love getting fake plants at the dollar store to doll up my spider's bins).

That's not a humidifier. That's a thermometer and a hygrometer controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368540854&sr=8-1&keywords=reptifogger This is a humidifier. It works well.

If that doesn't work out, there are different slurries you can buy off Amazon. When we adopted Oscar, our leopard gecko, his little eyes were crusted shut from a failed shed due to the previous owners not taking proper care of him. We had to drop the slurry on his snout a little at a time, and the little guy would lick it off. It's pretty inexpensive. Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1HVDCbNTDZEQY

This is something you could try.

Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TQXCDb4122K6R

My toad was the size of a quarter and I fed him 1/4 ml every other day if he was pooping. So depending on your toad size you wouldn’t need much. I’m not sure this is the exact product you should use but it should set you on the right path. Really try to find the Flukers stuff if you can.

Yeah. Whenever my ferrets get sick (I only have one who is a runt who gets sick).. I will feed them Oxbow Carnivore Care.

http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421335897&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=oxbow+critter+care


It has a milkshake-like consistancy so it is easier to eat. When ferrets are sick - they do not have much energy to crunch their hard food. I also give them Blue Wilderness wet cat food and mix a little warm water in it.

http://www.petfooddirect.com/productimages/3021077011_lg.jpg

Duck soup also works. http://www.petco.com/product/111667/Marshall-Pet-Products-Uncle-Jims-Original-Duk-Soup-Mix-Ferret-Food-Supplement-And-Dietary-Aid.aspx

Amazon sells reptibreeze. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_2FcaBbD2VJHJ2

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/reptilesandamphibians/qt/humidityhide.htm

this is better than nothing. you can build one cheaply, and it will give your snake a place to go to get hydrated. Ball Pythons are tropical species, so they need to have a relatively high humidity. I try to keep mine around 60%, and go a little higher than that if they are having trouble shedding.
I would recommend getting a cage that is designed to keep humidity in, but mine cost me a little over 200 bucks, so that may be a no go for now.
I have also used a hygrotherm (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroTherm-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0019IHK9Q) / reptifogger (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y) combo, which comes out to about 150 bucks.
Other than that buy a humidifier and put it in the snakes room, (preferably not in the cage), or get a spray water bottle and mist the cage a few times a day, and build a humidity box for the snake. (by far the cheapest option)
A healthy ball python will not have wrinkles or folds on the inside of where it's bent outside of shed. If it has wrinkles and isn't shedding then it is dehydrated.

Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q

plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US

with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4

No prob! Stay away from the Zoo Med Habba Hut XL. Just got one in the mail and neither of my BD can fit inside the arch because it's only 2" of clearance. Garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQD9A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it has 2 plug ins for UTH or Lamp (total of 500 watts for whatever combination you use)

(it's what i have and use - but there's no temperature setting, it's like a dimmer type knob)

We have an under tank heater with thermostat on the way from amazon and this for moist hide will be on the left maybe might move stuff around a bit and want to get more of the brown for that desert look

Reptile Heater Cord is what you want to use. Put the temp controller on heat setting (jumper) and connect it to that heater. When the temp of the fridge falls within +- 1 degree that it is set tat, it will apply power to the heater.

Here you are.


The pricing is dependant on the size you choose.

Zoo Med reptile heat cord...50 watts

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510938950&sr=1-2&keywords=reptile+heat+cord

I also use a chest freezer + stc-100, but with a [heat cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Cable-Watts/dp/B0002DIWMS)

Here is what I am using. As /u/Underclock stated, this can be found generally at your local pet store.

https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-14x14-Lizard-Lounger-Large/dp/B013T6XPVC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486446596&sr=8-6&keywords=reptile+hammock

Zilla Reptile Terrarium Covers... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFQ30K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Exo Terra Repti-Glo 5.0 Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00101JI2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

REPTIZOO Dual Lamp Fixture for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWKXYPP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

MUST Swap the UVB bulb every 6 months.

ZooMed coconut fiber substrate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_U9P4CbFK61SSA

https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=carnivore+care&qid=1557356251&s=gateway&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Remote-Thermostat/dp/B0002AQD9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420660835&sr=8-1&keywords=reptile+thermostat

Is this the type of thermostat you were taking about?

OPULENT SYSTEMS 24"x24"x48"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNQXMRT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


AmazonBasics 3-Shelf Shelving... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZAV8KH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


BaoGuai Reptile Mister... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLFC8X4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Inkbird Digital Pre-Wired Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQKXRXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have some Mojave Sand already for it. the only two things I'd need to buy would be this. Is this a good start?

https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Excavator-Burrowing-Substrate/dp/B000N5OM8S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=16MWUGEQOVNWL&keywords=excavator+clay&qid=1570129542&s=gateway&sprefix=excavator+clay%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-2

https://smile.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Coconut-Substrate-Quarts/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11MUDK3PQLGV5&keywords=coco+fiber+substrate&qid=1570129565&s=gateway&sprefix=Cocofiber+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-4

Since you already have a UTH, all you need is a thermostat/rheostat such as these:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378371&sr=8-1&keywords=uth+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Remote-Thermostat/dp/B0002AQD9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-1&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11939-Temperature-Controller-1000-Watt/dp/B002CZ0J3E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-4&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Temperature-Rheostat/dp/B0002AQD0Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376378401&sr=8-2&keywords=zoo+med+thermostat

>There are some good reasons for using incandescents

I agree.

>Also, for certain applications, incandescents are necessary, such as providing ancillary heat to dehumidify an enclosed space.

Not really. If the purpose is making heat, incandescents are actually some of the worst ways to do it because their lifetime is unpredictable and short.

Anyway, I'm not really knocking on people using incandescents per se, but I anecdotally know lots of fox news conservative types and when told that LED can save them lots of money, it's either: (a) fuck those dirty liberals and I'll keep using them to piss those fuckers off or (b) same as (a) but they don't want to come out and say that and so they make up ridiculous/faulty reasoning that isn't believable in the slightest.

I've seen maybe 2-3 applications total where incandescents were the best solution to a lighting problem, and they were fairly esoteric. I've also been told by people that they prefer the color of incandescents, but I've yet to see someone say that actually correctly pick out the LED consistently in a side by side lamp-shade test.

Anyway, I don't really give a shit. If someone wants to be stubborn or has an axe to grind, I'm not going to get in their way. I'd prefer they just be honest about it rather than make up stuff or regurgitate wrong second hand information.

>oops, nobody thought about how those faggoty LEDs wouldn't produce enough heat to melt off snow and ice

I'm an engineer. I assure you that they thought of it. What is more likely is that the way they were testing for it didn't take into account very specific types of precipitation that happen to build up very well in low-heat environments (or they couldn't easily replicate it in a test cell). That kind of build-up, despite what the media reports, was actually very atypical. It happened much less than cases where the standard lights just burned out, but obviously the media doesn't report on burned out traffic lights because everyone was used to that.

Stay away from the desert sand. Soil-type substrate is best for the whole enclosure. Most people use cocofiber.

30x30x30 is a bit big, but if you go with something that size, just be sure to fill it with substrate enough to reduce the height considerably (over half). You don't want a terrestrial tarantula falling more than a few inches.

A lot of people use decorative items for hides, so the skull is probably fine unless it has sharp bits.

Changing the hide and the sound from your stereo are probably minimal stressors. It likely won't impact the lifespan of the spider, but if it gets bald quickly after moving in, it may be time to move the spider (or the stereo). At 3-4 inches, this spider will probably only molt once a year, so it won't outgrow an appropriately sized hide quickly.

At 3-4 inches you should be able to tell the sex of the spider. If the shop doesn't have sex labeled, you should ask about it and/or take some photos of the underside of the spider if possible. We may be able to sex it for you from a photo (although the most reliable way is with a shed exoskeleton).

Definitely pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide if you haven't already. It's a solid resource and one you will turn to time and time again.

Edit: added link

Here's what I have in my 28"x28" C&C set up:

8.5" clamp lamp dome

100 watt ceramic infrared heat emitter

Thermostat (It's for reptiles, so I keep it on the very lowest setting for about 75 degrees. I also have a separate thermometer in her cage to make sure.

I use a mixed substrate of plantation soil and wet forest moss to hold most of the humidity, keep a giant tub of water in the hot end, and have a damp towel over the entire top of the enclosure (the front has vents).

For the first 4-5 years I used an ultrasonic humidifier that I hooked to the top with tubes, but that thing died. I've recently equipped an Exo-Terra misting system that seems to do the trick, but I'm cautious as I've read mixed reviews.


Edit: There are products like this and this that would probably be for small enclosures.

This is the one I have for my 100 gallon.

You can buy or make one on the cheap, so why not? I used one of these with one of these that I wired up. I've also experimented with just using a small space heater, but I'm not sure how safe that is. It also tended to put out way more heat than I needed.

I really need a new enclosure for my chameleon. He is getting big very quickly and is outgrowing his current enclosure. I don't have a job, otherwise I would have gotten this a while ago. Poor little guy paces his cage all day.

If that is a mesh cage they are hard to see through and cleaning them are a pain. I'd suggest:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373590853&sr=8-1&keywords=reptibreeze+24x24x48

Yes! Forest floor (cypress mulch) doesn’t mold like aspen and you can mist it or pour water in directly. I know Amazon sells it but most stores that I’ve been to that sell reptile supplies have it too. Also I remember I got the compressed coco fiber block and it was SO wet after rehydrating it. I ended up getting a bag of loose eco earth to mix in and absorb some water.
Zoo Med Forest Floor Bedding, 24 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010OVM7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D-czCbXHJYNFD
Zoo Med Eco Earth Loose Coconut Fiber Substrate, 8 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ycdzCbDF55X9G

Im not entirely sure but i believe it was dehydration. My mother thinks its her fault because she hasn't been spraying down her cage while im at school. As for what I use-

I just changed her heat bulb to a 75 watt reptile heat one

Humidity has been hard for the past few days, but i manage to get it past 60 atleast, and when im home i make sure to spray her enclosure down a lot.

As for the cage, its the X-large reptile screen cage from zoomed, https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-48-Inches/dp/B001PHABI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541196742&sr=8-1&keywords=extra+large+reptile+screen+cage

She eats both dubias and crickets, she refuses to eat vegetables or fruit that i try to give her.

Her food is dusted with Repti-calcium WITH D3 from zoomed.

I currently cannot take her to a vet since its 6 pm for me right now, my mother and I don't believe she'll make it until tomorrow. Ill see if i can get to an emergency one. She's also slightly moving around more and more and has opened her right eye a few times.

Will post pics soon.

Since the other person couldn't give you approx prices for beardies, I can do that!

​

I'll repeat this at the beginning, but do not buy starter kits. It's tempting. Do not buy starter kits. They will have items that are dangerous to beardies.

Setup:

Terrarium - Very basic setup. I've seen this brand up to $190 locally, but of course it's cheaper online. ***Note: It's not suggested you get this size enclosure immediately, unless you're rescuing or purchasing a young adult or adult. Hatchlings can live happily in a 20gal glass tank for their first 9mo or so, but they grow quickly!

Substrate - Paper towels, newspaper, or ceramic or stone tile. I spent $8 on slate tile and broke it to fit my terrarium. All other options are dangerous to beardies in some way or another. No sand. No repticarpet. No gravel.

Light fixture - $37, but if you look around you can find something non-branded for much cheaper than this. Must be a bare bulb visible, no cover to diffuse light. I used to have a 4ft shop light fixture, but went down to an 18" fixture just for the cheaper price of the bulbs. Which comes to...

UVB bulb - $20, replaced every 6 months. Very important to replace regularly.

Heat lamp dome - $12

Ceramic heat emitter - $12.

Reptile calcium - $2-5

Food dish - $5 max?

Plus whatever decor you want. Most people go for hammocks, a hide, fake plants. Real plants aren't suggested and will either be destroyed or eaten, and many are poisonous. Beardies do not need a water dish (too much humidity is actually bad for them) and do not frequently drink from standing water, so owners usually bathe them weekly to give them opportunity to drink their fill.

Baby bearded dragons eat about 80% live food and 20% plants. By the time they're adults (about 18-24mo) they transition to 80% plants and 20% live food. How much you spend on food will vary depending on what you're buying for their staple, but I would buy a butternut squash for probably $2 or so, dice it up, and freeze it. My guy loved it. I'd supplement with other foods on the safe food list, a mixture of fruit and veggies.

Say about $5 per 2 weeks for live food for a baby and however much for veggies. Thankfully for the veggies, anything your beardie doesn't want to eat, you can, so I don't count it as much haha

While beardies DO have an expensive setup (like most reptiles), their actual maintinence costs are fairly low and their adorable derpiness is absolutely worth the initial cost! They can live up to 15 years or so - my boy, Warra, was 12 when I had to put him down due to an inoperable tumor in his mouth. It's been close to two years since I've had one, and I miss having beardie compansionship every day! I'm slowly succumbing to the urge to get a new baby...

​

Edit: I wrote all of this, and forgot the price of the beardie...... Beardies can range anywhere from $60 to $500, depending on whether you're looking for a normal beardie, or a morph!