(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sanders

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.

Oy vey. I drank the Festool Kool-Aid a few years ago and it's a very polarizing brand in some parts (largely due to the price tag; think Apple products). I own a pretty sizable chunk of Festool tools and they all have their pros and cons. I don't swear by them as the end-all be-all tool but as a tradesman and someone that both works in the field and is short on time, they fit my "process" quite nicely. Anyways, without further adieu:

I own the Domino DF 500 Q and love it. That said I think if your dad is drooling for a Domino you should consider the Domino XL DF 700. It's a lot of cash ($1,400) but it'll do pretty much anything your dad needs (and they also make an adapter that lets him use all of the DF 500's bits to make it that much more versatile)

So assuming you do spring for that there's over half your budget right there (gotta love the green kool-aid) but there's literally no other tool like it on the market and I think it's truly worth its weight in gold.

With that taken care of and assuming you're not sick of riding the Festool wave I'd highly consider a dust extractor. They make numerous sizes but I'd offer up the CT36 as a recommendation or even the CT26. I own the CT48 and it's a bit cumbersome and if I had to do it over again I'd opt for a smaller one. If you go for the Festool CT26 you're looking at $650 but I do think the dust extractors are great tools.

Okay, so you've got your Domino and your CT26 and are $2,075 of your slotted $2,500. Now it really gets to personal preference. At this point I think I'd suggest the ETS EC125 with the 150mm Hard Sanding Pad.

I love the EC125 and a reason is because you can put the larger 6" pad onto it and have both the 5" / 6" sander (they both use the same motor). Lots of bang for your buck there and I personally feel the EC125 is the best sander I've ever used (save for some of the pneumatic sanders).

So of your $2500 you're $4 over budget should you opt for all those tools. BUT WAIT - most places will let you "bundle" the Domino w/ a dust extractor and take off 10%. Just go to a place like Hartville Tools and look for "package deals" and you can find them for the packaged price. Here you go: Festool Package

Anyways, hope that helps you out. If you have any questions just let me know about any of their tools. I don't own all their tools but I do own a handful and I'd be happy to give you any knowledge I might have that can help you.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

I would spend a smidge more on the grizzly version with built in disc sander. I think I paid 95 for mine. Yeah it won't chug through 1/4 stock but for small knives and such it works well enough to learn. 1x30 belts are easy to find on Amazon for a buck apiece or even less, and each belt will probably last at least onr knifes work. 5" sanding discs are even cheaper, and having that large flat area to sand on is hugely helpful for beginners. The whole machine might take some fiddling to get thr belt to run straight or to not have a nasty rattle, but with some tweaks here and there it can run nicely. There are several really high quality knife makers on reddit that use little 1x30s.

Edit: realized what sub I was on so figured I'd ask what you need a grinder to do? Depending on what kind or work you want it to perform should determine if this is a good buy or not

This one is probably the closest to what I have used

Looks like the price on the grizzly model has gone up significantly, but all of these 1x30s are pretty much the same, probably made in the same Chinese factory.

So, I've been using this 1x30 WEN grinder with some modifications (I made a bigger working surface, cut away some of the frame to give me access to the back of the belt, and have done a few other minor things here and there) and I've been pretty impressed with it. Don't get me wrong, I'd do just about anything to get a 2x72... well... except pay for one, I guess? lol


As for a bandsaw, I'm using a really old (50s or 60s?) Craftsman 12" bandsaw that I inherited from my grandfather but, if I were buying one today and were looking for a budget model, I'd be really tempted to try outthe 9" WEN Benchtop version (just because I've bought a few tools from them now and I really don't have any complaints, especially considering that they're a fraction of the cost of just about anything else out there) or, I might spend a bit more and go with this 9" Benchtop Grizzly. The main difference I see is the fence and mitre sled slots; those could be useful but, almost everything I do on my bandsaw is freehand.


Now, all of that is entry level equipment. If you were asking about what I'd buy if money wasn't a factor we'd be talking about very different equipment but, that's the budget stuff that I'd check out ;) Best of luck!

After hanging around here for a while, I finally decided to start making a knife. The handle shape was based on the "Cleave Me Alone" design by /u/KonyKombatKorvet. The shape is very comfortable. The blade is 3/8" O1 tool steel with a convex grind (this was an accident, but I went with it). The scales are carbon fiber that I had around and the pins are aluminum tube.

General cutting was done with a hacksaw, rotary tool, and a drill press. Shaping was done on a belt sander with 36 and 80 grit belts. I plan on getting higher grit ones for follow-on projects. Further sanding was done with an palm sander with 400 and 1000 grit paper.

Heat treating was accomplished using my forge. The steel was heated until it was not magnetic and then quenched in canola oil (because I had it). One good thing is that it smelled amazing. The blade was then tempered in an oven at 350 F for one hour (as directed on the packaging).

I haven't sharpened it yet. There are certainly things that could be improved, but I'm pleased with this first attempt.

As far as grinding goes, I basically took a jump from biggest P.O.S. to most popular knife-making machine, so I definitely got an improvement.

Not even kidding, I nearly cried when I saw the initial bevel off of the B3. The plunge was actually visible, the grind was even. I can't even begin to explain the frustration after using that 4x36 for so long, thinking that I was just a poor knife maker, and then realizing that it was the machine the whole time. Now, I can't tell everyone to get a B3 since it was $1800 and most people don't have that kind of cash to throw around, but it was SO worth saving for. I would highly recommend upgrading if you feel like you're a steady hand but you're just not getting the results you expect.

As far as what I had before... this monster. It's honestly not bad for woodworking, but knife-making on the other hand... just do yourself a favor and don't.

Thank you! Yes, lots of sanding. I made this one a couple months ago and hand sanded the whole thing. Took hours.

I've made a few larger ones since then and used this which sped things up considerably:
https://www.amazon.com/Arbortech-PRTAZ11A-Contour-Random-Sander/dp/B00R1JQ8KO

That thing is awesome but it can chew through the sanding discs pretty fast. You can order more replacements online or Woodcraft sells some that work well with it. Totally worth the cost of the attachment and sanding discs if you're wanting to make something like this!

I was in the same boat and began my research into those benchtop sanders. I was just about to pull the trigger on the Ridgid, despite the not so stellar reviews, but thankfully I found the Wen version instead. So its slightly cheaper, fits my budget, and I can use the savings to buy extra sandpaper for the belt and spindles. I got it on Amazon here

It's practically the same thing.

So far its pretty good, and does exactly what I want it to do. If I ever need a bigger or fancier sander, then I'll save for one in the future. For now, the Wen fits my needs.

Looking to buy a random orbit sander. Currently have my eye on the Bosch 3727DEVS and the Bosch 3725DEVS. I can't decide on whether the 5" or 6" will be better for my needs. Just curious on opinion here between 5" and 6" and what you guys use most or prefer. I realize a 6" would probably be better for big tables or slabs, which i don't really plan on doing too much of. But curious if there's any benefits of 6" on smaller work too.

The 2 sanders look pretty much identical, aside from the 5"/6" pads, so i thought maybe i could buy the 6" sander and a 5" replacement pad and be able to swap them out for my needs. Turns out there are a few more differences with the assembly than just that. It looks like I could still buy all the 5" parts for about $50-60, but i don't know if it's worth the hassle.

I think i'm currently leaning slightly toward the 5" model, but just curious if you guys have any input.

EDIT: I ended up buying the 5” 3725DEVSN, which I believe is the newer model(?). There’s a $20 coupon on amazon so I came out a little cheaper than the 2 I linked. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the input.

I'm dealing with the same issue. I've had the opportunity to use the Grizzy sander but not extensively, seems good for dressing tools but I don't know about large amounts of stock removal. Belt grinders are just so expensive!

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1015-Knife-Sander-Buffer/dp/B0000DD0AL/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_1_0

This one is the next step up I would say, a true belt grinder for not a bad price, just still a bit out of my budget and there are apparently a few problems with it. I wish I had a first hand account of whether it was worth it because it seems perfect.

Buy the best tools you can afford and buy them as you need them. When it comes to power stationary tools many times the older the better, they don't make them like they used to. All projects require hand tools of some kind, not all projects need power tools at all. The quality of your wood matters and so does wood movement. Above all else keep a positive attitude remember don't look at a project and say these are the mistakes I have made look at a project and say these are the thing I learned and now I can improve this. I will assure you that if every person in the subreddit compared their chairs to Sam and their tables to George we all would of gave up a long time ago.

The only power tools I used on almost every project.

Table saw Mine is a 1983 Craftsman 113.xxx runs like a top. I use Diablo thin kerf 40 tooth blades.

Bosch & Dewalt random orbital sanders - both used at auction both for under $20.

Craftsman #921400 10 inch Bandsaw - I have a small one that does reasonable work for what I ask of it.

*edit formatting

I'm gonna get some downvotes here, but it's their loss.

Do one room at a time.

You should get a http://www.amazon.com/Makita-GV5000-5-Inch-Disc-Sander/dp/B00004YOKT and some 16 grit disks (Buy a box of 50 on the interwebs). Get the nicest respirator in your hardware store and a Tyveck coverall (w/hood). Put a good shop vac outside with the hose threw a partly open window with something to block all extra space around hose. (you want to lower the air pressure in that room) keep all other doors and windows closed or walled off with plastic.


When those disks are new they are sharp! (But you shouldn't ware it out for four hours.)


Now here is the trick! when you touch (the outer 1/3 of) the disk to the wood, make those little grits travel in the same direction as the wood grain! (Make an earnest effort at being an "artiest" in the fine art of making that grit travel in the same direction as the wood grain. Start each new disk using it lightly, and harder as the disk gets less sharp.)


Oil primer and paint is for cavemen.


Use Benjamen Moore products (Or live to regret you did not)

Thin the first coat of primer by at least 25%


I'm going to be a nice guy and let you put more coats of paint on in the years to come. I will never let you put additional coats of primer under paint that has already been applied. so feel free to put 2 or even 3 coats of primer on before paint. (The reason paint "peals is the first coat of primer did not soak into the pours of the wood, thinning out first coat of the primer is very important)


The only thing worth using a chemical stripper on is molding or intricate edges.


Good luck.

I bought this one, but there are several listed and they all look like they're made by the same company in China. It works well, you just have to keep an eye on the air hose. I also bought some flat pads from amazon that do ok. They aren't nearly as good as what you'd get from a good name brand in something like a 5" size, but for small areas they get the job done.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KQLGL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pgjUDbYMG223F

Your impact driver will be fine for a single room. I found myself using mine quite often anyway just because it was cordless and the control is great on newer drivers.

If you're really interested in speeding up the process, buy a sander like this. Absolutely and inarguably worth its weight in gold. Even if you don't use it after this you can likely sell it pretty easily and if you can't it's STILL worth the $130 in time savings. It is an underrated tool that will cut your mudding time and effort down a tremendous amount. Pair this thing with a bag or two of 45 minute quick dry compound mix and you can have numerous coats done in a day.

Two different applications between the tools, generally it sounds like you can get by with a ROS. If you really want the best:

https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-MID55020CAUS-Direct-Electric-Orbital/dp/B00RZSVBEY

Otherwise, the Bosch ROS is good. Should you need a belt sander, the Hitachi or PC are both great options for a lot less.

Wet sanding with an oscillating hand sander works well, just go slow. If you need to do detail work, I haven’t found anything better than this:

Proxxon 28594 PS 13 12-Volt Electric Pen Sander, Micromot NG 2/S AC Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWK9ZJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4ntDb0NMP2XA

Edit: this is the hand sander I have. I like the battery powered because it melts the plastic less because it’s less powerful

Ridgid ZRR9700 12V Cordless JobMax Multi-Tool with Tool-Free Head (BARE TOOL, Battery and Charger NOT included) (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXIS0FA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u7ntDbBJH95YG

Thank you! I have experienced some very strong kick back with my dewalt box planer with end grain boards. Some say that if you go very slow and take light passes it will be fine. After mine broke chunks of wood off and projected them out, I decided to invest in a drum sander,

I bought this one a month ago: Jet 16-32

Couldn't be happier with it. Prior to purchase I had grown weary of sanding cutting boards and had them beginning to pile up as I tried different glue ups. It handles the dust very well and was worth every penny. After getting 90% of the sanding done with this machine with 120 grit. I finish off with 220 in an orbital hand sander to smooth out before oiling.

I also invested in these for gluing and have loved them Clamps. I'd recommend them to anyone gluing segmented boards.

That is not an electronic kitchen knife. It appears to be filing or sanding it(friction not cutting). It also created a ton of foam dust which normal cutting doesn't. I cut with a Bosch foam saw and carving knife everyday. There is no way he could achieve that perfectly smooth round shape with either one.
Edit: I'll have to go back and rewatch it but if I remember correctly it was an air tool not an electronic tool.
Edit 2: yep it's defintely a pneumatic tool. I'm almost positive its s handheld belt sander. Save the sass unless you know exactly what you're talking about.

Check out the Makita BO5041K. It's a well rated sander and is a pretty good price. Makita BO5041K 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander Kit

Amazon also has $25 off of $100 on Makita tools as well. I got [this sander] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M5IWM8/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1417035823&sr=1&keywords=makita) for $75 yesterday:

It's a Grizzly G1015. 1000 times better than a harbor freight 1x30. Anyone who has used a more expensive grinder usually complain about the Grizzly's belt tracking, the platen's quality, and the small rest. Those issues can be addressed with some mods. For the price point, you can't beat it.

Edit: Gramerz

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M5IWM8

Oh, this is the one I got, but without the case.

https://www.amazon.ca/Makita-BO5041K-5-Inch-Random-Sander/dp/B003M5IWM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472848145&sr=1-1&keywords=makita+random+orbit+sander

In the US, it was the same price as the DWE6421.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY47GWE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1