(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best shelf brackets & supports

I wouldn’t risk this. It doesn’t seem terrible at first but if you imagine the liquid weight and the height above that few mm overhang it would be an easy tip-over if it got banged the wrong way. It might be best to make a small platform that covers the whole bottom, plus a cm or so, and put the tank on that. And then add a little support underneath with a few of those right angle shelf support things.

Kind of like this but smaller

You know what? I may have remembered the price wrong as I see my file cabinets are still on ebay. They are quite popular now and selling for $100 including shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-Rustic-Wood-Black-Metal-2-Drawer-File-Cabinet-Filing-Table-Office-NEW-/252760158055?hash=item3ad9adef67:g:iJAAAOSw44BYml4P

If you ever bought a nice piece of furniture from pottery barn or restoration Hardware, you would think $120 is super cheap. ANd that stuff is cheap compared to real hardwood furniture!

I prefer hardwood as well. My father built everything with oak. But even these pine slabs cost me $800. And the other wood and hardware was well over 1500... I probably spent 2500 on this thing overall when you consider all the materials and finishes etc...

The floating shelf mount is a thing of beauty. If you appreciate fine machining, you will love this thing. (it was not cheap either but it is very well made)

https://www.amazon.com/Floating-Shelf-Heavy-Bracket-Shelves/dp/B01MYWHRUS/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MYWHRUS&pd_rd_r=G02JJRGMR5XYYCA5233W&pd_rd_w=IOiDB&pd_rd_wg=5WCcg&psc=1&refRID=G02JJRGMR5XYYCA5233W

you are going to want support further out i would consider beefing up the two verticals on the outside and fitting in something like these

https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Steel-Floating-Shelf-Bracket/dp/B01NAFVQHE

looks like you are pretty close to having them 16 o.c. so that would line up for studs nicely if you played with your dims a little

You'd be surprised how much weight you can actually hang on drywall with the right fixtures. If you want it to be load bearing then definitely either aim for the studs or use anchors. To be honest I put one of these up only using fairly heavy duty wall plugs directly through the drywall, and that was mounting it horizontally. Mounting it vertically will be even more secure.

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Main thing is make sure you drill the holes accurately, and make sure beforehand that you're not going to hit any cables or, even worse, water pipes!

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Edit - By the way, when you buy this shelf it comes with a bracket that you first fix to the wall and then simply slot the shelf unit over the bracket, so it's not as daunting as it may first seem if you've never hung one. Get it right and before you know it you'll catch the bug and be butting shelves up all over the house just because you can :')

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Edit 2 - because Reddit didn't like the URL for the shelf bracket

I make and sell a few different styles of floating shelves - If you want just a 2x8 or 2x10 shelf, these are really good. They come with drywall anchors and screws, but if you attach them to studs you can literally hang from them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQ6R9CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The hardest part is making sure you build them to hit studs if you're going on a typical drywall wall.


If you are ok with a taller shelf, you can build a shelf that's basically a wood box, with a wooden bracket that bolts to the wall like this

https://i.imgur.com/5I6cmss.jpg

I actually prefer these because they're easier to hang, but it depends on the style you're going for.

So. That holder doesn't seem to be the right one for that shower head.

How nice are you wanting this to look vs. the level of function vs. cost and effort you want to put in?

If you want FUNCTIONAL only... I would recommend a big-ass carabiner and some good 2-part epoxy for metal. put the carabiner on that hangar with the epoxy and let that operate as your holder from now one.

• Pros: It works. You don't have to dick with removing the current hangar and trying to find a new one.
  
  
• Cons: It will look kinda like ass.
  
  Alternative 2: Find a new showerhead mount. Look at the measurements of the products vs. those of the handle on your showerhead. Make sure it fits. Follow the instructions to mount it. TAKE SPECIAL CARE that you either use drywall anchors (which should probably come with the device), or drill it directly into a stud.
  
  
  Shower Curtain: This is a bit more difficult, because of the positioning of the window and the sink. I would recommend mounting your shower curtain from the ceiling using these. Again, use the mounting instructions that come with them. And for god's sake, when mounting into the ceiling, use drywall anchors. Past that, just get a rod and curtain.
  
  
  Tools needed for this endeavor include: Small batter operated drill/screwdriver. They are all over amazon for <$50. In fact, if you are TRULY a beginner, here is a cool little set for you. You aren't going to be building any houses with it, but it has some basics you will need around the house. If any of these break, that shows you that you use it enough to warrant something more expensive.

I understand your frustration, but your average cabinet is not designed to carry the load through the gable (the side pieces).

If you want to be safe, I'd like to recommend some decorative L-brackets to be mounted underneath your glassware cabinet. Maybe something like this vine version:

https://www.amazon.com/Trellis-Vine-Iron-Shelf-Bracket/dp/B005TQD0VG

I have my bed along the passenger side, and also have the sink / water storage just in front of it sitting in the sliding door. The only thing is, there isn't room for a stove there. I haven't figured out what to do for a stove yet - but it wont be right beside the sink.

Hmmm . . . a crazy idea that I just had right now. You could extend the "kitchen" counter from the sink cabinet over the bed, so that your feet are in a little cubby hole under the counter while you sleep. In boats, a lot of the time bedrooms are made where your feet are in much smaller spaces than your head. I'm not sure if I like this idea or not; but it might be clever space management; using the same space for both your bed and your kitchen.

My statement about "rolling" isn't actually being afraid of actually rolling off the bed. It's about subconsciously being comfortable - having gravity pull you towards a more comfortable position instead of having to minorly fight gravity. Like sitting on a chair where the seat slopes forward versus sitting on a chair where the seat slopes backwards. One is uncomfortable, one is comfortable.

For fridges, I had someone who specializes in boat refrigeration recommend Vitrifrigo fridges. I have ordered this unit: http://www.vitrifrigo.com/us/us/c75rxd4-f-external-cooling-unit
because I feel that it maximizes available space inside the fridge by moving the compressor somewhere else in the van, where it can easily fit (I am likely going to put it in the electrical "closet" - that is otherwise dead space. ) The C75 might be too big, but it's what I ordered.

For folding tables, I have one attached to my sink cabinet - so that the passenger chair can swivel around and I have a desk/table there. I also have ambitions to add some more to the back door for outdoor workspace, etc. But I advise you to skip the magnet ideas, and just buy some proper hinges like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NK33Z/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I suspect that magnets would pop out and your table would be unstable.

This is the best advice. Make it out of wood and paint it white afterwards and it will be cheap, strong and look good.

visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/HRD-Floating-Support-Bracket-Decoration/dp/B07T4MDQPB

Use 3/4 plywood.

Ditch the corner bracket things you have on the bottom inside corners. Dowels and glue and/or screws will be just fine.

Get something like these and screw them to the back of the shelf. Put the skateboards on, and you're set.

The three skateboards is actually significant weight for a shelf-case like you're doing. A french cleat is a cheap and easy way to support that.

I'm thinking about just adding a few more 2x4s to the back long wall to allow me to place the brackets where I do not have studs and reduce the chance of hitting water. Then get some heavy duty L brackets and placing them every 12-18 inches as needed. I've seen some L brackets that go out 20 inches that seem like they'd be the perfect length. Amazon Link

Any thoughts on this idea? I hate not having my office in working order and I started the project without thinking about my knees!

Stainless pipe with threaded ends, into threaded flanges, might work. Probably cost an arm & a leg, though. Anything else... might prevent the wall from moving "in", but won't stop it from moving "out".

Easier, probably, to open the walls back up, attach countertop brackets (sideways), to the top plate of the stub wall and the studs of the bathroom wall. Something like this or this. Probably have to mod the framing a bit.

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Yes.

Easiest, and reversible way would be to build a shelf unit to fit in the space. The sides don't have to be heavy duty as the shelves will keep the unit from bowing in.

Easier and a bit more difficult to reverse is to use hidden shelf wires.

Easy, unattractive, and more difficult to reverse would be to put cleats on the columns to support the shelves.

Because of the space you are spanning, you would need to make sure your choice of shelf material will not sag due to weight or over time.

I wouldn't use that to hang shelves like that. You're wanting to hold the shelf (and a fair amount of weight) with ~1/8" thick wood around that slot. Hangers like these would work better.

You could screw four of these fittings into a thick piece of wood. Made sure to cross brace them to add support so that the structure doesn't "parallelogram" on you.

You could put something like this in each corner.

You could put one of these guys in the middle of a square table and then run the legs down at the corners using one of these or perhaps a bent piece.

I can sketch any of these ideas if you would like.

Ben fulltiming in this Montana for about a year-and-a-half now. My wife and I found ourselves a little short on counter space at times. I made this foldable Leaf using shelf brackets off of Amazon and the table piece from a folding tv dinner table from Walmart. Super easy to do. Shelf folds down when not needed.

Link to brackets

I bought these pins recently as a replacement for that kind of pin and I like them better. They are a bit longer so they are more secure for deeper holes.

But this pin has the same collar.

Black pipe, some elbows and mounting plates

Kind of like this from Amazon

Floating shelf brackets

BIGTEDDY - Adjustable Blind Shelf Floating Support Invisible Brackets, Concealed Mount for Home Wall DIY - Sliver (Packs of 8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWRJ38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aUdzzbFGR2741

Not OP: You'll need

https://www.amazon.com/KINGSO-Industrial-Floating-Hardware-Farmhouse/dp/B071X6KLK9

One shelf board, I'd recommend hardwood vs. MDF board as MDF board will blister when water sets on it.

Your plan sounds fine, but you could do a floating shelf (random amazon kit )
Or depending on the look you’re going for, 2 panels on the side wall with adjustable pegs (but I can’t remember the last time I adjusted a shelf...)

I did not have studs by the window so i used anchors, which came with the metal pipes (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X6KLK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zu1KDb13EZBSG).

Sandwich two pieces of 1/2" plywood together, then use your standard floating shelf brackets:

https://www.amazon.com/BIGTEDDY-Adjustable-Floating-Invisible-Concealed/dp/B01KZWRJ38

Made out of cherry. The shelves are 3/4 thick but I stacked 3/4 pieces around to edges to give it a chunkier look.


The hardware used


The first hardware which didn't work out and was returned

Edit: I guess we're the first hardware isn't eligible for return so I'll have to figure out a use for them

You could drill pocket holes where the studs are located and screw them to wall.

Pocket Pegs from fast cap might work https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=57083

Also any of these floating shelf hardware will work

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZWRJ38/ref=asc_df_B01KZWRJ385039070/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01KZWRJ38&linkCode=df0&hvadid=191995157905&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5035351041676607984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026933&hvtargid=pla-303174627981