Reddit mentions: The best slip & martingale collars

1. Erase the retractable leash. Get a six-foot nylon leash. (You can get a 15 or 30-ft one later when you start working on long-leash training.) Make sure you remove the retractable leash. Retractable leashes aren't leashes. They're terrible accidents waiting to happen.
   
   
2. Nature's Miracle Laundry Boost! I love all their products, but you will at some point have to wash rags and bedding. I have also started putting some in with gym clothes, grungy cleaning clothes, my barn coat, smelly bath towels, etc. It's an AMAZING PRODUCT. It got stains out of my barn coat I thought were permanent.
   
   
3. At least one treat ball (we currently have three in rotation). Duncan gets all his meals in them these days.
   
   
4. Kongs! Kongs are great, we have like FOUR of them in rotation, at least 2 with a little filling in the freezer at all times, especially as he goes into a teething phase.
   
   
5. A martingale-style collar, like this one https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Martingale-Collar-Medium-Red/dp/B000JD1PUW These are ideal because the pup cannot back out of it if he spooks. (I've also found that you can find really NICE, unique handmade ones. I got one for my girl dog last year at our local specialty store, purple (boyfriend's favorite color) with snowflakes (we love winter), gorgeous construction and quality. And the proceeds supported a local rescue.)
   
   I wouldn't spend too much money on toys yet. You will want to see what his habits are before you really indulge. (E.g. we found out on day 1 that Duncan is a rope shredder when he went after our older dog's rope tug. He can't have rope toys, and I'm glad we didn't buy any new ones.)
   
   Good luck!

I have a one year old shepherd hound mutt on my hands. He's a totally different dog but I deal with these same things all the time (I imagine they're pretty common). This is what I do.

1. My dog plays tag with my belongings all the time! Best way to prevent it is to wear him out. Dog park, hikes, long walks/runs. Sometimes a throw in a quick training session to tire him out mentally. A tired dog is a good one. This is by far the best approach I've found, but obviously the most time consuming.
   
   
2. I've been dealing with the bed thing lately also. The thing is, we occasionally enjoy having him in the bed with us, other times not so much. First, I got him a bed right of his own right next to ours and thought it would resolve itself. But the real trick was teaching him that he was only allowed in the bed when welcome. Unless he gets the bed pat to jump on in, he will get an "Off" command and will be removed. This was difficult at first, since he started jumping in after I was already asleep. I had to wake up in the middle of the night a couple times to kick him out. He picked it up pretty quick.
   
   
3. Get a training/choke collar (amazon). I had something just like that when he was really small, now I've upgraded to a prong collar for the big guy. Our training instructor told us when dogs pull, you need to take command by changing directions. If your dog pulls you forward, pull a 180 or turn a corner. Do it confidently without looking back, and praise once they start following you. You'll look hilarious at first, but the pup will figure out who is leading the expedition.
   
   Best of luck!

Wow - you are doing dog adoption on hard mode. I am very surprised that a foster let a dog like that be adopted within 3 weeks of arrival having been pulled from a shelter and an abusive situation. In fact, I'd call that borderline irresponsible.

Abused dogs can just shut down, a condition called "learned helplessness", and it takes a LOT of work and training. A LOT of engagement, and a lot of time.

A quiet place is good. That she's got a crate that she's sheltering in is good. Now you need some really high-value treats and some time. Pieces of cooked chicken meat are great. Get things quiet. Take treats to her crate. Treat in the crate. Treat for allowing pets. Entice her to the opening of the crate. Bonus treats for coming out to seek a reward. Treats for going to the puppy pad. Treats for stepping on the puppy pad. Extra treats for using the puppy pad.

Under no circumstance use physical coercion, pulling, or pushing. You need to engage her brain through her nose and food drive. She has to learn that interacting with people is a good thing that gets rewards, not punishment.

When she gets to the point of going outside for walks, you need to double-leash. Body harness with leash, collar (preferably a nylon martingale style) with another leash. Because if she startles and pulls out of a single restraint - she's gone.

My other recommendation would be to get in touch with a trainer/behaviorist for advice. Helplessness can turn into fear aggression if not handled properly. Best of luck.

EDIT: I'd also contact the rescue you got her from. They might not realize that she wasn't ready to be adopted out. If they're actually a conscientious rescue, they will either take the dog back into foster or help you find resources to deal with the dog's behavioral condition if you can't handle it alone.

We have never had much luck with not pulling - it’s just part of their nature if a squirrel is around! We try to allow as much time as possible off leash in safely fenced areas. We use the martingale collar linked below (size small fits a full grown B). It’s wider so at least distributes the stress over a wider area. We did use a front clasp harness for awhile but our breeder told us it was bad for their shoulders so we stopped. Biggest recommendation for leash training is consistency - every single walk is a practice opportunity. Use a string cheese or other high value treat and teach the pup when they’re not pulling and when they’re looking at you is when they will get rewarded. There are some good YouTube videos on this - it’s very important to reward at the right time.

If It Barks 1.5" Layered Ribbon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CR96GGI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What about a martingale collar? Those can slip on over the head while still being safe for walking (they tighten to regular collar size when there's pressure on the leash, so they don't slip off):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072DG764/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426947529&sr=1

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Martingale-Collar-Quick-Buckle/dp/B00CZ7I120/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426947529&sr=8-1

For these martingales, you can get it on/off your dog without ever messing with the quick release buckle (which is what I do with my standard poodle), but the quick release is also there in case of emergency.

Ruffwear is an EXCELLENT company, though. Great warranties on all their products, and their products really do last. Some of the sizing can be hit or miss for smaller breed dogs, so measure carefully.

These are my absolute FAVORITE leashes -- they work over the shoulder and in multiple lengths:

http://boldleaddesigns.com/shop/8-way-lead-6-ft-multi-functional-leash/

http://boldleaddesigns.com/shop/brahma-8-way-lead-6-ft-multi-functional-leash/

They also sell clip-on traffic leashes and can do a wide variety of custom buckles and other custom work.

This one looked interesting as well (haven't tried it personally):
http://boldleaddesigns.com/shop/quick-grab-plus-a-two-handled-hands-free-leather-dog-leash/

I personally love a good cinch collar. Here's one like mine. Make sure you get one several inches longer than necessary, and never actually choke your dog with it. My friends with shephards use one of the pointy-er ones like this.

The technique is to walk at your own pace and as the dog pulls, they receive a negative feedback. When they stop pulling, the negative feedback is removed and the "staying close to you" is reinforced. You can help this by using a corrective-tone "don't pull" type command when they are pulling, and some praise when they walk well.

Actually - the one we use isn’t very expensive and I’ve used it now for 10 months. I didn’t want to go with something more expensive the first go around as I wasn’t sure I would like it. I adjusted it to make sure it fit right with help of our trainers. He’s tested the sturdiness of it a few times thanks to rabbits in our front yard and it’s held up.

Mighty Paw Martingale Collar - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5MQ2E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ni3IVq6meZiJx

Some of the dogs in my ‘extended’ breeder family have discount codes for Sexy Beast. I’ve debated on upgrading my male to that since he’s 18 months and should be fully grown now. I’ve also looked at 2 Hound Designs for my Show Girl as they have cute options which seems to be hard to find some days.

> Where can I get them?

Amazon has these. If you live in an Amazon-less place, I'm sure you can find others as well. You can also probably find a collar that's made with softer tips or caps already attached.
Like others, I would urge you to work on training your dog to walk without pulling so that you can ditch the prong collar fairly soon. You have a young dog of a biddable breed, so this is 100% doable. Also, just be clear with the babysitters that they need to remove the collar promptly after walking.
Good luck!

Once you get it fit right, you can get it on and off with just one of those plastic pinch connectors. I will note, I sometimes have issues with it even with normal hand strength. Especially if she's excited and wiggling to go out. Maybe a harness for your use and get a Martingale neck collar for use at Mom's? Once fit, those can simply be put on over the head.

Hug-a-Dog are awesome, and hugely popular:
https://www.dachshunddelights.com/Hug-A-Dog-Harness_c_60.html

For hiking & daily use, we prefer a loose-fitting Martingale collar like this one.

GSDs are really big dogs, I would recommend if your corrections don't seem to be working, get a martingale or pincher collar. If used properly it is not going to hurt them, just provide more disincentives for pulling.

Some will say that collars like these are abusive, but if you use them properly they are a great training aid. You have to understand that a dog's neck is much different than a human's, so the prongs are not painful to them.

Link to product? I have never seen a choke chain like that.

I have seen choke chains like these: http://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Choke-Chain-Collar-Heavy/dp/B0002QIJKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318693838&sr=8-1

They are generally used in training dogs, and tend to work well at getting the dog to remain at your side. My friends use them in training seeing eye dogs, in particular.

You would benefit from using a collar with a release.

Something with a release like this will allow you to undo the collar in an emergency (for example, if the collar is caught on something and choking). My dog has actually been able to get his tag stuck between the boards of my deck when he was laying down on it and I was glad to have this. These will also last a long time and some have lifetime warranties, such as Lupine, which offers an "even if chewed" replacement warranty. I bought a cheap one (not Lupine) over a decade ago and am still using it on my malamute without problem. Actually, the only reason I have ever replaced these are because the dog outgrew it or I wanted to change the color.

Something like this is more difficult to remove.

If you are using something more like this, then it would be very difficult. These can also cause damage to the dog's throat which can result in expensive vet bills.

The tool you would need to remove a collar would be dependent on what the collar was made out of. A nylon webbing one would be removable with scissors while a leather one might require a knife and a metal one would require a bolt cutter. A nylon collar with a release like the first one linked should put you in a position where you do not have to worry about this, though.

It might just be hard to get the leash unhooked from the collar when the elevator is pulling it against gravity so hard. Throwing your weight on it is gonna help the initial tugh on your pooch but at some point you'd have to stop the thing.

I guess ideally you'd have some sort of collar you could just yank right over their head like one of these bad boys, but I'm sure not every dog's head is small enough to slide out without unclipping theirs :/

This is the one we use: https://www.amazon.com/EzyDog-Checkmate-Martingale-Style-Training-Correction/dp/B076TYJ31N/ref=sr_1_4?crid=325XZW1L3G7CA&keywords=ezydog%2Bmartingale%2Bcollar&qid=1567206085&s=gateway&sprefix=ezydog%2Bmar%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-4&th=1

I really like them!

Have you ever tried a martingale harness? We use them a lot in rescues as a lot of dogs tend to get out their collars or harnesses. This helps in addition to using the two leash method. You can find various sizes that could work for your dog on amazon if you haven’t tried. Wouldn’t want your pup to get out again. :(
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WADXCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t8whDbRP6V9ZE

I had the same issue with my pei, only collar she can wear is a chain. We use a harness on walks. I would try a chain type collar, you shouldn't have problems :) I've bought from this company a few times.. My pei is a girl so of course she needed a pink collar :)

Platinum Pets 4mm Coated Chain Dog Collar 20-Inch, Bubblegum Pink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZKEQA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T35BbHT64V57

Corgis are pretty stout, like small big dogs. On ours we use a small choke chain.

Collar: use a martingale style collar, they are basically escape-proof and what we use on our shelter dogs since they can be flighty. Until he is trained, if you want extra security, put a harness on and have a second leash.

So for the prong collar Herm Sprenger Neck Tech Stainless Steel Prong Dog Training Collar with Snap Hook Pet Pinch Collar No-Pull Collar for Dogs Made in Germany 19 inches https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TNR2H8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GNIRDbFT10FNC

And for dominant Ruffwear Cinch Collar for Dogs, Medium Sized Breeds Adjustable Fit, Reflective Trim, Size: Medium (36-51 cm/14-20 in), Kokanee Red, Chain Reaction Collar, 25701-604M https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B012A3T5ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0PIRDb9Y88VEZ.


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So, you're looking for a collar that doesn't use a quick release buckle and a hands free type leash without the talan/lobster claw clasp?

How about a martingale collar. They can be somewhat difficult to get on and off and shouldn't be left on when the dog isn't supervised. Or a buckle collar. This might not be a good idea though if your dog doesn't like the collar to be messed around with since you would need to buckle it every time.

Drag free leashes

Is there a reason you dont like harnesses?

Do you mean she's breaking them or just escaping from them? You could try a martingale collar. Adjust it so that the ends will meet but not choke her. It should be almost impossible for her to pull out of. Variations of these are often used on sighthounds whose necks are thicker than their heads so its hard to keep collars on.

Martingale collars are generally regarded as one of the most secure-- They are recommended even for sighthounds that tend to have necks thicker than their heads. But they shouldn't be left on indoors because they're a greater strangulation hazard than normal collars.

They also make collars that are designed to just keep tags, that will break if too much pressure is applied. They're called tag collars or breakaway collars and can be left on a dog at all times. But they shouldn't be used to attach a leash.

For a greyhound or any other type of sighthounds, whose heads are skinnier than their necks, you should be using a Martingale Collar, otherwise, you risk them backing out of the collar: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martingale_%28collar%29

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-PRC-S-3-4-RED-Premier-Collar/dp/B000JCY27Q/ref=sr_1_6?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425573052&sr=1-6&keywords=martingale+collars+for+dogs

time for a martingale collar