(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best speaker parts & components

Just did this. So worth it.

Bought this case and it worked like a charm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGTH4L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rKBiDbB5QDEBD

When you plug your HomePod in at a new location it should automatically update its Wi-Fi based on your phones wifi credentials. I say should because it sometimes takes a little while. Just get your phone on Wi-Fi, plug in the HomePod and leave it be for about 15 minutes.

I use weather, news, music and timers on my HomePod constantly, so it was nice to be able to keep using those features when away from home.

I think 2 of these would work better. A membrane does not have the cage that a passive radiator has. The general rule i remember is that you do not want the area of the woofer to be greater than the area of the passive radiator.

I have those 4 as in ceiling atmos. They are definitely overkill so you could downgrade if you wanted to. I use them and they are great, though.

I used these to mount them in my ceiling.

https://www.amazon.com/Tile-Bridge-for-Ceiling-Speaker/dp/B000RQ5JU8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506551091&sr=8-5&keywords=drop+ceiling+speaker+mount

Probably look into rack mounted (professional style) KVMs like this one - You have to buy cables separate...They are intended for servers. But it doesn't have audio. So prob pick up some sort of audio switch as well. Something like this maybe. although its only 4 not 6. Or look into a audio receiver with 6 inputs.

I lot of people like the Lackrack/DIY method, and I know it's worked out well for a many. I'm of the opinion - after multiple mediocre or outright failed DIY attempts with various projects - that you should just save up and buy the real deal.

To that end, I bought a 13U TrippLite rack via Amazon and couldn't be happier. I did save myself a few bucks by getting the appropriate casters and nuts/bolts from Lowes rather than spend almost $80 on the official caster kit.

I have two of the IKEA desk legs supporting at the end. I just put in a third in the middle of the right desk for more support today.

For the spacing above the drawer, I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DRFS1-Heavy-Rubber/dp/B005CT5YV4

You mean these? They'll work. I had 1 Rosewill and 3 Logisys clones that I set up with these and they worked great. I went looking at the Amazon reviews and they all seem to be for a totally different product. Weird.

This case on Amazon is only $11, on prime, and fits Joules almost perfectly after removing the dividers

Thanks! I actually just found these. Do you think they would work?

I just looked up "60 kHz speaker," and a few transducers popped up with the spec of 2 - 60 kHz. Here's one:
https://www.amazon.com/Piezo-Loudspeaker-Ultrasonic-Cannon-Kemo/dp/B07DRQPKG9

Now you need an ultrasound source and an amplifier that can drive ultrasonic frequencies. And to make sure you're producing ultrasound as well as calibrate the transducer level at different frequencies, you'll need an ultrasonic mic and an ultrasonic measurement system. Eek, gluck.

> Fujimi Gunko

Hey, Yokosuka! I live and work there! I recognize the shape of the base(some things, of course, have changed since then). It's even sold on amazon.jp Well, I know what's going to be in my next order to amazon.

Is it the M3? or S3? Because the S3 is a speaker amp https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TA2021B-High-grade-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QL9IE

Either way the M3 is good enough for those.

I have used this http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-C15LGR-15-Feet-4-Feet-Speaker/dp/B0090IFGJ8/ before. It is pretty thin and durable, just use some spray adhesive to install it.

Thanks! I was looking for this...

Do you use those shelves: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Universal-Cantilever-Cabinet-RSA-2USHF02/dp/B06XDT1ZLN?ref=dp_atch_dss_sdp_ce_1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

for triggering the atomic 3k, you would want something that could output DMX512 data to trigger the strobe.

edit: I would suggest something like the dmx shield here https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-TinkerKit-Master-Shield-T140060/dp/B00EIB4ZF8

The RLP254 is a dual 4 ohm 300w RMS subwoofer. This plate amplifer is rated at 300w at 4 ohms and 150w at 8 ohms. It is not recommended to run it at 2 ohms.

Look at the price of the amplifier and your subwoofer, It would be better to buy a home audio subwoofer.

or upgrade your feet.... Like This

I assume they are talking about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Soundlink-Revolve-Bluetooth-Protective/dp/B075G38KBS

I don't know that they're hard to find, but I've never used them and can't say if they're terrible or not.

Rails that don't secure to the chassis, essentially a really big shelf, are fine if you don't expect your rack to move a lot and you're careful. Just don't tip the thing over and you're probably good.

I'd use this stuff instead of tolex. Plus, I've used it as loop-side Velcro and it does pretty OK.

If you need things like hinges and handles, Parts Express should have most of what you need for reasonable prices.

From experience: definitely consider the weight of your finished board. 3/4" plywood might seem like a great idea, but that can become a bitch to transport, especially if you're building a lid or case.

And lastly, price the whole thing out before you buy anything- by the time you've got all the tools and materials, you might be approaching the cost of a ready-made setup.

Joule + big clamp

4.75 gallon Cambro for normal cooks

Food Saver vacuum sealer

A shit ton of ping pong balls

Bluetooth speaker case that fits the Joule perfectly

MAP gas torch

A big ol bag of binder clips

>They cost about $12 per foot, which is cheaper than commercial alternatives I researched.

Just get these instead.

They fucking suck, don't buy them.

But if you don't have a choice: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3FJ5HC/