Reddit mentions: The best speaker parts & components

First of all, stay away from sonos. They sound like garbage.

Now that that is out of the way, we've got some discussing to do.

If you want the ease of Sonos, but good sound, a pair of KEF LSX is what you want. slightly over budget, but there isn't really anything else in your budget. 'All in one' stuff like that isn't very popular, and is pretty hard to find. KEF makes some of the only stuff like that, that actually sounds decent. Honestly, they sound really nice. I like them a lot, especially for all that they can do.

If you'd rather make a 'custom' setup with bluetooth, a receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers will be great. Will they be better than those KEFs? Yeah, but a lot of people don't want to deal with the 'hassle' that comes with setting up a system (it really is pretty easy though. put stuff where you want it and run wires). Also, it won't particularly be loads better than the KEFs.

Here's the receiver you want. It has everything you could ever need. Don't worry that it's 'too many channels'. 2 channel receivers usually don't have as many options. This one has bluetooth, airplay, wifi for streaming, etc.

With that, you'll want two speakers. I prefer bookshelf speakers. You get more for your money with them. To expand on that a bit, bookshelf speakers are usually cheaper than tower speakers for what you get. Neither bookshelf speakers or tower speakers can go all the way down, and you'll get some help from a sub with either. For example, you can get a pair of 'budget' tower speakers for around $1000, or you can step up and get a pair of bookshelf speakers that are the next 'tier' in a line, so you'll get better sound.

This is where you have options to make (not like you didn't before, but now you really do). After that receiver, you have around $700. There are two options. The first is to get a pair of bookshelf speakers. The second is to get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a sub. I would prefer just the bookshelf speakers, because you can get something much better (the 'cheapest' sub I would get is around $400) and you can add the sub in later.

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Here are your bookshelf speaker options:

I really like Ascend Acoustics Sierras. They've got a really smooth response, that's pleasurable to listen to. The Dark Cherry color is beautiful by the way.

These KEFs are really nice as well. They have a less 'smooth' presentation and more of a 'detailed' presentation. They're accurate and revealing. Loads of fun to listen to IMO. (They make a bigger version as well, but they aren't any better, and they're more expensive. Too much to get into now, but I'd avoid them).

Now, I'm going to put this pair in here, but I've never heard them. Philharmonic Mini Monitor. I can't comment on them too much, but I can speculate as well as tell you what I've heard from reviews. These are supposed to be very nice. Ribbon tweeters are very 'open' and 'airy' sounding. It's hard to explain, but it makes the sound feel very transparent. Again, hard to explain. The ribbon tweeter they use is a spectacular ribbon tweeter, so I'm sure it sounds great. They'll have tons of detail but will never sound sharp or anything.

Bowers and Wilkins 607 are a very good option. The way their system works is this: The higher the first number, the better series (607, 707 are the same size but with different drivers). The lower the last number, the bigger the speaker (607 is the smallest, 606 is bigger, etc - I have no idea why it is backwards). We were discussing earlier with towers vs bookshelves and I feel this is a good time to explain. You can get a pair of 600 series towers for $1800. However, you can get a pair of 700 series bookshelves for the exact same price, therefore get better sound quality for the same money, if you're okay with having a bookshelf. Anyways, sorry about the side tangent. I think that the 607s are very good speakers (I bought a pair for my friend the other day but he said he couldn't accept them so I returned them :( - fair enough though). They are very fun and sweet sounding speakers. I like them a lot. They also hit to a decent frequency for their size. If WAF is a concern (wife acceptance factor) I feel like these are a very safe bet. They're also in your budget.

Alright, those are some of the best options. If you'll be doing a lot of music listening, I'd pick the Sierras or the B&W because they sound very sweet and they're fun to listen to. If you're doing a lot more tv/movie stuff, the detail of the KEFs or the Philharmonics will be great for vocals.

Also, if you do any of these, you probably won't feel like you need a sub, but it might be nice. This one is the one to get.

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Here are your bookshelf and subwoofer combos. You'll want this sub as well. It's the least expensive sub I feel good about recommending at this price point.

HSU also makes speakers. I don't know much about them, but I can speculate (mine show up monday). Horns are fun and dynamic, but also provide great vocals in my experience. These would be good for a tv/movie setup rather than a music setup, probably.

Here's another pair of horn speakers. Klipsch makes good tv/movie stuff.

These other Ascend Acoustic speakers are also very good. Not as good as the sierras, but they have a similar smoothness to them. Very good speaker for the budget.

These elacs are what you want if you'll be putting them directly against the wall. They have a front port that won't be choked off if you do that. Also, they are a very warm sounding speaker. I like them a lot.

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Whoops, looks like I shot myself in the foot with this one. I told you not to get towers. There is one pair of towers that I would recommend.

Tekton Mini Lore. I've never heard them, but look up reviews. Extremely sensitive, meaning they have awesome dynamics and sound effortless. Also, they get low enough where you won't need a sub. They get lower than a decent amount of subs actually.

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"But Poly, what would you do?

I'm glad you asked.

If I wanted something 'easy' and 'no fuss' the KEF LSX are the way to go.

If I want something for music and I can't fit towers, Sierras are what I would get.

If I want something for TV/Movies, the KEF Q150 is what I would get. Vocals on those things are crazy good.

If I could fit towers, the Tektons are what I would get. Unfortunately I haven't heard them, so I cant 100% tell you that they're perfect, but look up any review and you'll get the idea.

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How does this all look?

Man, aren't all of us newbies?

Okay, so for a not-real rack option with high WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) generally stacked IKEA Lacks are the newbie option. You can get creative but generally mounting with screws is pretty meh, generally it's more or less organized stacking. A slightly better option in the same avenue is the newer Ikea Hejne option possibly pioneered by /u/TheGammel. Just make sure you get the deeper one.

For a DIY solution on the cheapish with casters, TBS blog did a guide on making an open rack that doesn't look terrible as the halfway point for an enclosed rack that's pretty good for only $400-ish (the open is more like 130 assuming you have neither rails nor panels). It looks better than the even-cheaper Home Server Blog one.

As far as other entry level racks go, you're probably looking at a Startech adjustable or similar, assuming you want conveniences like castors for easier maintenance and rear access. Other people ITT probably have other alternatives but it's hard to compete with the TBS DIY cost for a new rack.

This all assumes, of course, that you have a full size server somewhere, and that Craigslist scores from luck and patience aren't an option. IME there aren't a lot of 20-25u deep racks being thrown out by companies like there are the huge 42u or higher ones. If you don't mind there are two-post racks out there, along of course with weird little Ikea RAST mods for shorter networking gear (typically, one guy slapped two together for a longer server).

I guess my question was is there a way to have 4 ears (2 in front, 2 in back) for best stability. Pushing it forward would help, and if you had a 2-post rack that would be ideal, but for 4-post it would make sense to have a way to mount to all four posts. For instance I have a 2-ft deep (post to post) rack in my garage, and so having ears that could mount to all four would be way better than only in the front (or only in the rear).

That said, if you using 2U worth of mount points, and you have 3 or 4 screw holes to attach to, and the anchoring to the chassis is strong enough, it may not matter at all. My Cantilever 1U shelf is rated for 60lbs, so maybe I'm just being paranoid.

Would the larger 3-slot version support rack mounting as well?

Regardless - very much appreciate the thought for rack mounting. I think there's a massive hole in the market for rack-mount cases for ITX boards. There's mATX ones like some Rosewill chassis and such, but an ITX gaming PC in a rack form factor seems like a no brainer. Whatever you may think of Linus Tech Tips, they've done a bunch of great videos on rack-mountable systems (including watercooling in rackmount form factors) so they might be interested in checking out one of those cases.

EDIT: It's funny, I've been bugging you about the SM580 for months, then bugging you in the SV590 thread, but it seems like every time you come out with another case concept, it's an even better fit and makes me delay changing my case. :D
I'd rather put my PC in my rack in the garage with fans set to 100% (because I won't hear it!) versus watercooling the whole damn thing.

Just find a decent looking 2.1 from a fairly reputable manufacturer. I believe Logitech and Edifier have a few sets in that price range. Don't expect anything mind blowing but I've had some of the cheaper Logitech sets and they're pretty good for the money. Try look for ones with the best reviews, look for common issues too.

Also consider going 2nd hand. PC speakers tend to go real cheap.

Alternatively, you could get a portable speaker like the Anker Premium. Many people say it holds up well against the Bose Soundlink mini which is a very impressive speaker for its size. Anker are great and very reliable.

A Sous Vide cooker will decarb for your perfectly every time as well, and will have a million other uses in the kitchen as well.
Anova Sous Vide Cooker
Case (Optional but nice)
Reuseable Vacuum Bag Kit

So for a couple bucks less than a "unitasker," you can decarb perfectly as cited by Drama_Derp's link; You can take that decarb and do a perfect butter immersion with the same device, and you'll also be able to make perfectly cooked steaks, salmon, vegetables, perfectly poached eggs right out of the shell, etc.
Serious Eats has a lot of great material for Sous Vide cooking if you wanna browse how much more you could do on top of decarbing with the same device. :)

I can’t say enough good things about this server rack.

StarTech.com 4POSTRACK25U 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack Cabinet - w/Casters / Levelers and Cable Management Hooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2p38BbWTEMTBZ

This is the one I have at home. It has cable management hooks. It also comes with casters and levelers which many companies (like Tripp-lite) charge extra for.

It is an open frame rack. It’s expandable and will go much deeper than Dell servers will need. Which is good for future expansion.

When I ordered my first one, the box didn’t include any of the bolts to assemble the rack or the casters or balancers. I called Amazon Business support and they told me that the rack was super heavy and that I could keep it for free and they would send me another one. I then called star tech support and they sent me a free tool kit with my missing stuff. Essentially, I got a second rack completely free because amazon business customer service is super awesome and because the heavy rack would’ve been expensive for them to ship back.

Amazon rocks.

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

TL:DR - I think that list looks good, maybe consider a vintage receiver. I hope this is helpful.

Most people around here are probably more knowledgable than I am, but I thought I'd chime in because I was looking at doing the same thing a few months ago. I looked at everything on that list when I was shopping around and they all seem like good options. I ended up buying

Audio-Technica AT-LP120 It was on sale for closer to $200 at the time, but it's about as much as a u-turn. I've been super happy with it and the wirecutter gave it a great review.

I ended up going maybe a bit overboard with my speakers and got KEF Q150's. I'm really pleased with how they sound, and they are a massive upgrade from my cheap old bookshelf speakers, but I think I would have been totally fine with the Q Acoustics, which were my second pick.

My main regret was that I bought a Sony STRDH190. It didn't sound bad or anything, but I just didn't really love the sound, and I felt it looked kind of ugly. I ended up going down the vintage receiver rabbit hole and bought a Sansui 4000. I love how it sounds, and I was able to pick one up for $150 on ebay after waiting a bit for a good option. I spent another $80 bucks getting it serviced. A warning: This is a slippery slope. I now have 2 Sansui receivers, a Kenwoood amp, the original Sony I bought, and one disgruntled girlfriend all living in a 2 bedroom apartment.

The drawback of a vintage receiver is the lack of bluetooth playing your Spotify playists. I bought a Chromecast Audio to handle that. I use Google Play music, but I think it integrates with Spotify as well.

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Hi all. I bought these things and I think I realized I want to go a bit bigger/I kinda bought the wrong things:

Micca PB42x Speakers

Nobsound NS-15G Amp (im dumb and got powered speakers on accident, another reason to return them)

I think instead I'd like to do a set up with KEF Q150s, but am unsure what else I need. Apparently they sound better with bass (I'm in an apartment but it's a highrise with good thick walls so I think I'll be ok?) and I was thinking about going with this. I was hoping that amp up there would be good enough, but I want to be able to switch between computer/turntable/tv/maybe stream audio from a phone so I think I need a receiver.

So I guess I'm mainly looking for suggestions on accessories for receiver/amp/wires. I already have some rca to rca cables and rca to 3.5mm cables, but I assume I will also need a subwoofer cable (?) and some speaker wire + banana plugs (??!!) so I would really appreciate some help here. Help is much appreciated, cheers :)

I need to go clean some things up before I post some awesome photos like everyone else on here, but here's what I use in my entryway coat closet which I've retrofitted to be a server closet (while still serving as a coat closet):

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• Tripp Lite SRW12U SmartRack 12U Low-Profile Switch-Depth Wall-Mount Rack Enclosure Cabinet (I originally ordered from Amazon, but they destroyed it in shipping and then couldn't get a replacement for some time, so I used Wal-Mart after I got refunded from Amazon.)
  
• AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 1U Universal Rack Shelf, 14" Deep, for 19" equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 60lbs Capacity - I have 2 of these in the rack so far, and love 'em!
  
• be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed, BL070, Cooling Fan - excellent, and as the name implies, quiet fans. The reason that I went for the PWM high-speed model is mostly for future-proofing, where I can replace the plug with something that I can tie to temperature and ramp up to high speed when I need to (bonus points if I can tie this to Z-Wave since that's what I run my house on.) For now, they run at full-speed all the time, and it's good enough.
  
• CRJ DC Power Supply for 2 x 3/4-Pin 12V Computer PC Case Fans - for powering both of the "Be Quiet!" fans
  
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  As far as air, electrical, and a ton of Ethernet goes:
  
  
• Air - I use ducts like what you'd find for bathroom exhaust fans that are the same diameter as the vent holes in the server cage. These literally sit on top of the server cage, and come through the sheetrock ceiling and vent into the attic (it's already hot up there and has vents, so I don't really care about venting the heat from the server closet into the attic.) I still need to improve this (e.g. better seals) and waiting for a friend that's *GREAT* with sheetrock to help me on this.
  
• Electrical - I ran Romex down from the attic and mounted an "Old Work" outlet box into the sheetrock, and then had an electrician connect it into my panel. I did this after buddy and I mounted the server cage so that power is directly inside of the cage. The 2 plugs are used: 1 for the server power rack, and the other for the heat exhaust fans.
  
• Ethernet - I used conduit that I cut 2 equal segments of. Like the air ducts, they sit on top of the server cage and go directly into the attic. There's a board that conveniently sits above (I think it's called a "collar tie"?) which I whittled down with a knife, and use to support the weight of the Ethernet cables that loop over it and drop straight into the conduit.
  
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  Since I've had a bitch of a time getting cable run into some of the rooms (for whatever reason, I can't just drop straight down from the ceiling since some boards cross horizontally) then I use MoCA. Specifically, Actiontec MoCA, and then the one that's in the server closet is run PoE via an adapter.

I have one like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reckhorn-shaker-audio-therapy-BS-200/dp/B00AMH17GC

...and 3 of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conrad-BASS-PUMP-III-Speakers/dp/B0000WR4FC

...all attached to my office chair ad they do a great job. I guess you can easily order them to your place.
Don’t know how exactly do you plan to attach the shakers to your setup (or how the setup is built) but I would suggest getting 4 of those Sinuslive’s, get an amp for them plus some nice software to drive them according to the sim’s telemetry data like SimShaker Wheels (that’t the one I use and it’s great) or SimVibe with an additional soundcard and you are good to go.
Buttkicker would be nice of course but that price... It’s so expensive and it’s just one shaker. Surely it works better than those mentioned here but for simracing I would suggest getting 4 shaker’s so you can really set up all the different feedback you can get from a sim game via the add on software.

Edit: just read ‚cockpit’ - I guess same rule applies here maybe not 4 bit 2 would be enough but still eg SimShaker software has a version for DCS, Warthunder, Aerofly and some other flight games. Not sure about SimVibe’s support.

If you keep your budget at $1k and purchase the BenQ (which would be the best choice based on your budget) that will leave approx. $1200 for a screen and audio. A bit unbalanced but doable in your situation. A manual screen will set you back about $80-$100. Ideally you'd want to use an acoustically transparent screen but your budget won't allow that.

For audio then, with approx. $1k to use, I'd do this:

Receiver $200: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv379bl/yamaha-rx-v379-5.1-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

L/C/R $300: http://smile.amazon.com/Infinity-Bookshelf-Theater-Speaker-Package/dp/B01BKR05WY/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1462282281&sr=8-19&keywords=infinity+primus

Surrounds $90: http://smile.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462282454&sr=1-2&keywords=micca

Subwoofer $405: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/stf-2.html

As you are in a condo, use the flexibility in your budget to acquire some bass isolators like this: http://smile.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-System/dp/B00NCSQ5GK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462282521&sr=1-1&keywords=subwoofer+isolation or this: http://smile.amazon.com/ISOfoam-Soundproof-Subwoofer-Platform-Mounting/dp/B018FKC4MS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462282521&sr=1-4&keywords=subwoofer+isolation

to decouple the subwoofer from the floor. This will help reduce the vibrations in the walls and floor.

This system will give you an excellent subwoofer, very good speakers and a capable receiver.

No one told me this when I started so I'll tell you:

I think we should specify here that "server rack" and "network rack" are built differently. If you want a rack for networking and just the 24 port switch and patch panel, you'd look at something like this. If you're wanting to eventually put a full-length server in, you'll need something like this instead the difference being that the second one is built to support the length and weight of a full server.

Keep in mind when you purchase a server you'll need to buy rails that attach to the rack for it. The server then sits in the extended rails, which slide back into the rack.

Startech makes pretty good stuff, IMO. I've seen them on here before. I have the four post rack that I linked to in the second post and it's served me well. The best thing you can do however, if you have the room, is to jump on craigslist and see if you can find an enterprise getting rid of their rack. Generally those are worth thousands new and the companies are selling them for $40, or something ridiculous like that. I didn't have access to a truck, so that's why I bought mine.

Note that with the large rack you can add networking equipment too, and can also get shelves to support things that aren't rackable.

For power you can either get a rackable UPS or power strip.

Hope this helps. Have fun.

1. I'd be looking at a Dell R720xd or something similar. Dual CPUs, 12x drive bays, 2x2.5" internal bays, and plenty of space for RAM. I would set this up with a hypervisor and freeNAS as one of the VMs. Create NFS shares for the other VMs you will create. This will enable all other VMs to have quick access to your data since it's physically on the same machine. If you're going to be backing up multiple computers running Windows you can also create SMB shares in freeNAS easily and access those from your Windows machines. Another option is to run NextCloud on a VM, which is kind of like DropBox. Works great with phones too, as it has a app for Android/Apple to sync up your pictures and other data.
   
   
2. I would go for the Unifi AP-AC-Pro access points. They have great range, power, and speed with multiple antennas to service many wireless clients at once. You can manage these APs in a slick interface called the Unifi Controller. You can install this application on Windows or Linux and manage your wireless networks through the web interface. You can also buy a "cloud key" which basically does the same thing.
   
   
3. CAT6 would be the best if you're looking to future proof. I'd look into at 48 port managed switch so you can segment your network into VLANs. This enables you to isolate your potentially dangerous clients, like guest wireless clients, IoT devices, and other smart devices.
   
   
4. If you want to run cameras on your network, getting a PoE+ managed switch will enable you to power those cameras without having to use a power injector.
   
   
5. I think at least a 24U rack would be sufficient. Don't forget a UPS or two. StarTech USA makes some pretty affordable racks.

I have a hardwood floor, and I have rugs down, but not under the speakers. I would never use spikes.

SVS makes some of the best isolation feet and they are cheap AF. B/W used to come with some nice rubber feet, and they did a great job on my old CM4s when I had them hooked up.

The hifi shop where I hear all the statement stuff costing a mortgage, they have them setup on wheeled platforms in carpeted rooms. That way they can easily move them about for demos, but also experiment with placement. I have not noticed this causing any issue in sound. Not everything is on a platform, just the most expensive stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-System/dp/B00NCSQ5GK/ref=sr_1_15?gclid=CjwKCAjw7anqBRALEiwAgvGgmyDdJvXMpzBXVWFnHTwG0ZmRqXZXPMECuVq08KwAEO69jnlsAiUMERoCCu4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=234331157942&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027578&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8090954534135887264&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-125181552022&hydadcr=19108_10158137&keywords=svs+isolation+feet&qid=1565189042&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Like, you don't need to spend a bunch of money. These will do just as well as anything, and maybe better than most, if you want to set a speaker on a hardwood floor.

That's a cool effect. The key is that the speaker is driven with a 30 Hz tone and the camera is running at 30 fps. To keep the clarity, the camera shutter is set to a very short value, like 1/500 to 1/1000 second. I have done similar effects to show speakers moving, just not with the non-Newtonian fluid.

Understand that the effect won't look like the video to the naked eye because the short shutter speed is freezing the action. To get a similar visual effect, you would need to illuminate the speaker with a strobe light running at the same frequency as the tone driving the speaker.

From the looks of the video, you will need a 6 to 8-inch speaker with at least 50-watt power handling capacity. This one might be a good choice. Don't worry about the specs of the speaker for audio quality. You don't need good frequency response or low distortion for this purpose.

A 4-ohm speaker will get a little more power from the amplifier. Remember that speakers are not designed to handle a single tone at full power for more than a few seconds, so don't run it any louder than you have to because you may overheat the speaker. If you plan to run this very long, keep your nose alerted because you can smell the glue overheating if sniff around close to the speaker.

To drive the speaker sufficiently, you will need at least a 10-watt amplifier with good low-frequency response. More (up to 50 watts) would be better. [A cheap board amplifier like this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Aoshike-Subwoofer-Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Amplifiers/dp/B01N0PXEN4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1539029251&sr=8-15&keywords=board+amplifier) will do a great job. You'll also need a power supply like this one or similar.

You can get the tone from your phone with a simple tone generator app.

Hope this helps. Ask questions if you want.

Sounds like you would like a nice 2.1 setup that will sound better than your old stuff. 1.5 to 2k budget is very reasonable. Here is what I would look at.

AMP - Denon AVR-X1500H $300 or a Yamaha RX-V485 $400 - The Denon has Audyssey room correction to really get the most out of the speakers. The Yamaha is simple and easy to use.

Speakers - Choose one

• KEF Q150 $300 - On sale! These sound fantastic and won't break the bank. There is a lot of the same tech from the LS50 in these and it shows. I happen to be partial to the white but get whatever color you want.
  
• KEF R100 $600 - The R series for a deal. I don't know how much better than the Q150's these are but they should sound wonderful.
  
  Sub - Make things go boom!
  
  
• Rythmik L12 $560 - Small sealed and server controlled for nice tight bass.
  
• Rythmik F12-300 $700 - The next level up in the Rythmik line.
  
• SVS SB1000 $500 - One or two choice is yours. Their entry level sub
  
• SVS SB 2000 $700 - The step up...more power more volume.
  
• SVS SB3000 $1000 - Because screw it I only want one sub and fell like shaking the house.
  
• KEF Kube12B refurb $550 - If you want to be all matchy, matchy.

I don't know about robust, but I'm using one of these under $15 board only amps right now, on a 12VDC power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0PXEN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm feeding an Aurasound transducer with it, from the dedicated center channel output on my motherboard, so I didn't need a separate crossover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Turned up to about 6/10 it seems to give me pretty good feedback. I don't know about how "crisp" it is TBH. [That's highly dependent on how you have a transducer mounted to transfer impulses to some other structure, which might have some resonance or flex/absorption, depending.] The amp is rated 100W into 8ohms, but it would deliver better output into a 4ohm transducer if I had it on a higher voltage supply (input can be up to 24V and they recommend 19V e.g. laptop type chargers).

Anyway, it's an option at least. So far been functioning for about 6 months of irregular use.

Hey /u/ZeosPantera,

I first wanted to say you are the fucking man. This subreddit has been so incredibly helpful in figuring out my audio system. Additionally, I was wondering if you could provide your expertise for me.

My fraternity is currently getting our house back in a few weeks, and we have money to spend on home improvement (in this case, an audio system for the large common room). I'm looking for a system that can double as both a home theater sound system as well as speakers for a large, loud party. I assembled a list of components and was hoping you can recommend any changes. This is the list so far:

Receiver - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7X2OV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Center - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y3E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Front speakers (tower) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISZEV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rear speakers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRMKJTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WPEQCN6WJKZG

Subwoofer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

These are the ones you listed as being loud enough to play music on as well. Will these products fit the bill for my needs (home theater, large frat party)? Also, these extras to set up the system:

Banana plugs - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090CVJZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RCA cable - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Copper wire - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APEG9MO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there anything I'm missing in order to set up the system? Thank you so much!!

Such a handsome keyboard! Mine's just sporting blanks, but the Viterbi still feels really nice overall, especially as a travel keyboard. If you'd ever like a hard shell case for it, this works really well and fits the keyboard perfectly!

I would strongly recommend the KEF Q150s (speakers)
You could start with a stereo setup and upgrade over time when you appreciate and understand better.

You wouldn’t need a subwoofer because these speakers can go really low.

I would suggest getting a used Yamaha AVR in the $70-100 range or better yet a NAD C316BEE. You could get a cheap $15 TOSLINK DAC from amazon if you want to connect the speakers to the TV.

But if you are not comfortable buying used, Cambridge audio Topaz AM10 is on amazon sale for $199

Links:
Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=kef+q150&qid=1565306273&s=gateway&sprefix=kef+q&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Stereo amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Topaz-AM10-Integrated/dp/B00803GSBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cambridge+audio+topaz&qid=1565306341&s=gateway&sr=8-3


DAC

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B01N07LYON/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=toslink+neotek&qid=1565306409&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Edit:
Please get speaker stands to do justice to your ears and the speakers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P8DKDE/?coliid=I2B9E5FFVQLHR1&colid=2LH7I4PVTPHWZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Usually more on the speakers than the receiver. Good speakers give you the best sound quality improvement.

Receivers have a radio tuner, integrated amps don't.

• Intro to home stereo systems | Crutchfield
  
• Introduction to Audio Components | Lifewire
  
• What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice
  
  Used: kijiji.ca or canuckaudiomart.com locally.
  
  Canadian Speakers: Axiom Audio M3 $670 CAD internet direct, Fluance Signature $265, Paradigm or PSB such as the PSB Alpha B1.
  
  Speakers: KEF Q150 $400, NHT C Series C-3 $488, Monitor Audio Bronze 2 $650, Klipsch RP-160M $650.
  
  Project Phono Stage/Preamp if going with the Debut: Phono Box DC $150 CAD.
  
  Canadian Turntable: Fluance RT85 $665 CAD or Fluance RT82 $400 CAD. Auto stop and an optical sensor speed controlled motor for low wow and flutter and speed variation specs. RT85 will be back in stock soon. RT82 can be later upgraded to an acrylic platter when Fluance offers it soon by itself.
  
  Canadian Phono Stage/Preamp: Fluance PA10 $107 CAD.
  
  Stereo Receivers:
  
  
• Onkyo TX-8140 2 Channel Network Stereo Receiver $380 CAD
  
• Onkyo TX-8220 2 Channel Stereo Receiver $230 CAD
  
  AV Receiver if ever using with a TV even with just 2 speaekrs or later add 3 more for surround sound movies and TV.
  
  
• Onkyo TX-SR383 7.2-Channel Network A/V Receiver $300 CAD.
  
  Add a subwoofer later.
  
  Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
  Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver
  
  Speaker Positioning: Speaker Placement for Home Theater, Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening and How to position your speakers for great sound
  
  TV Positioning: Vertically centered at eye level while seated.
  
  Also see r/budgetaudiophile and r/hometheater.

This type of plate amp is what you want if you are building the sub and want to install the amp in the sub box itself. This technique is what commercially-built subs will do.

If you want the amp in a separate box from the sub, then this type of amp is what you want.

The reason why car amps are cheap is because they have a high-current 12V power-supply to tap into already built in the car (the battery/alternator system). The reason why home audio amps are more expensive is because they have to built that power supply into the amp itself rather than just tapping in the car.

ps. I went through this whole thing when I was in college and short on money but wanting big bass at home. Built some passive (no amplifier) subs powered off boom boxes or compact systems (not enough current in those amps for decent results) and then receivers (decent results if the receiver has enough juice). Later just got a commercially-built sub. Decent ones are available pretty affordably nowadays but I'm glad I went through the learning process. I understand audio tradeoffs much better because of it.

The short answer is yes.

The long answer is yes, but you will have to use a Y-Adapter from your audio out port and you will need to use an additional Y adapter if you plan on using headphones or speakers.

Subpac:

http://thesubpac.com/for-gaming-vr/

• Using a simple audio out connection, the SubPac adds the physical dimension to any set up.
  
  Buttkicker:
  
  http://www.thebuttkicker.com/downloads/manuals/ButtKicker%20mini%20LFE%20Instruction%20Guide.pdf
  
  
• The ButtKicker operates on low frequency audio signals, just like a subwoofer. A “Y” adaptor can
  be inserted to the subwoofer or LFE output on your surround processor to allow use of subwoofers
  and ButtKickers in harmony.
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------
  The even longer answer is that you could build your own bass shaker system for less money and have more power and better configuration(4 bass shakers instead of 2(buttkicker + subpac)):
  
  
  This is my DIY bass shaker setup:
  
  
• Amp: http://www.parts-express.com/4x100w-at-4-ohm-tk2050-class-t-digital-audio-amplifier-board--320-335
  
  
• Power Supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-24V-DC-14-6A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-/331060676334?hash=item4d14c106ee:g:hV0AAMXQjWtRKt4z
  
  
• Bass Shakers: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Bs-200-Tactile-Transducer-Theater/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568544&sr=8-5&keywords=bass+shaker
  
  
• Second Sound card to drive amp: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-Audigy-SB1550/dp/B00EO6X7PG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1402934998&sr=8-8&keywords=sound+card
  
  
  Bass Shakers: 4 x $40
  
  Power Supply: 1 x $24
  
  Amp: 1 x $50
  
  Sound card: 1 x $30
  
  DIY Total: $264
  
  Examples:
  
  
• http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/724042-My-DIY-SimVibe-racing-rig
  
• http://www.overclock.net/t/1354257/project-log-my-diy-simvibe-racing-rig
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Compare that to:
  
  Buttkicker:$150 - $200
  
  Subpac Total: $379-$399
  
  Total: $529 - $600

First off. Hurray for a fellow Steelers fan!

Second off, we need a budget for you. /r/Zeos is a great place to start and I am completely following his advise. I can try to help you out. I posted this in another thread, but I think it may be relevant for you.

This is my plan. (As a disclaimer, I am fairly new and a student of /r/Zeos.)

This Receiver

Front Speakers

Center Speaker

With a room that small, you could go with this subwoofer.

All that will be under $500.

If you're doing surround, I'd throw in a pair of these.

Don't forget some good quality speaker wire and banana plugs make life easier.


Also, I see you're looking used. I think that's a good idea. You can get older receivers for fairly cheap. Stick to the names listed in Zeos's post about 5.1 systems.

Hi, fellow german here!

If you're ready to shell out some cash I can highly recommend the Startech 25U. Otherwise, as others have suggested, you could build your own or choose the Ikea Lack-rack route, tho I personally would invest in a good rack. You might also find some on eBay (Kleinanzeigen) or - if they don't need to be really deep - you can have a look at thomann.de, they also have some racks (mainly made for holding music gears but works with servers just fine!).

BTW: I think your link is wrong but great that you're looking at KNX systems, can recommend it if you want to do a lot of home automation :)

As for the flaring on both ends. I am still debating on this port. It seems the tests show they do move more air with less noise, however the question is will my subs move enough air to cause noise? I guess better safe than sorry so I will probably use the port mentioned here if I do use a round port.

Now that you mention it and I'm thinking about it.. A 1.5" wide 16.5" tall 9.5" deep port would be cheaper and easier to make. All the while still producing a clean sound. I guess it will come down to the amount of money and the amount of time I feel like spending next weekend. I like the round ports for looks mostly.

I'm going to purchase a pair of KEF Q150 speakers and I'm looking for a good receiver/amp recommendation.

The inputs will be from my computer which has a sound card and also USB of course and from my TV which has optical and 3.5mm output.

For now I'm not going all out and don't need anything that is capable of surround sound, more speakers or bluetooth. Mainly just want the speakers to sound the best I can for something under $250. I'm assuming I'll want a built-in amp for the receiver as well.

EDIT: What does everyone think of this receiver? Onkyo TX-SR383

I bought this one off Amazon brand new for 250 shipped. StarTech 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack.

I live in a area that doesn't have a lot of old server equipments so I had to get this one. It's great since it's adjustable depth. And casters are awesome addition as well

What the u/astrnght_mike_dexter said is correct.


The recever is decent, good enough for this price range.
A good stereo system will always sound better than a mediocre surround system.


$500 will get you some really nice bookshelf speakers.


https://www.amazon.com/Wharfedale-Denton-80th-Red-Mahogany/dp/B00RDMZJ9U
https://www.amazon.com/ELAC-Uni-fi-Bookshelf-Speaker-Black/dp/B01CRYWVG2
https://www.amazon.com/Acoustics-Concept-Bookshelf-Speakers-Gloss/dp/B00D8XYH32/

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Premiere-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07G3D2C8S/

https://www.amazon.com/SVS-Prime-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair/dp/B00PASUMV4/

https://www.amazon.com/Dali-Oberon-Bookshelf-Speakers-Walnut/dp/B07H2N5CNT/

https://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Audio-Bronze-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002LPTH92/

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/

Put most of your budget towards speakers as they make the most difference in audio quality.

I don't know of any speakers that fit with a receiver in that 500 euros range because I don't know your market.

Kef Q150 are excellent speakers: https://www.amazon.fr/KEF-Q150-Noir-Haut-Parleur-Hauts-parleurs/dp/B071P6KQZX/

Focal Chorus is a French speaker company that makes excellent speakers: https://www.amazon.fr/Focal-Chorus-706-Enceinte-bibliothèque/dp/B001AD9R46/

A low end Denon or Yamaha audio video receiver should have bluetooth (check the specs) and may even have built in support for the music app you use. If you are using a cable box to watch TV, you run the cable box to the receiver and then to your TV.

Well, Maybe...

The Bass Shakers you linked at rated at 50 watts rms and are 4 ohm.

The amp you linked is 45 watts rms @ 8 ohms or 70 watts at 4 ohms..

So, currently, you will be wiring the shakers in series so it'll be 8 ohms. That means you are running 45 watts to them so each will get 22-ish watts rms which is about 1/2 the shakers rated power.

If you get to more you will put these 2 in series again BUT then take the 2 pairs and put them in parallel. That means you now have a 4 ohm load on the amp and you now have 70 watts rms. Divide that by 4 and you get 17 watts to each shaker which is only a few watts lower than when you had 2 shakers..

Personally, I think that amp is under powered for even 2 shakers,

The 250 watt plate amp is a better choice (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0070Z81MW). That would give you 75 watts of power @ 8 ohms (2 shakers) and if you want 2 more you do the series/paralell and you will still have 62 watts of power to each shaker. The idea of having an amplifier with more power than the shakers is so you aren't running the amplifier into clipping by trying to get more power out of it than it can supply. You just set you gain (level) on the amp with extra power so you don't over power the shakers.

Hey everyone! So I don't have any machines aside from a hand drill and I'm looking to cut a hole into MDF to fit these handles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012BLJMQI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you think I'd be able to buy some milling bits and use those in a hand drill since MDF is so soft? Or would that ruin the hand drill? Thanks!

I've hooked up a SMSL SA160 to two Clark Transducers in series on just one channel, which worked pretty well. I had the volume at max and the shakers were feeling pretty powerful. It could do 4 if you hooked up two more on the other channel. The amp does 160 amps at 4 ohms and I'm not sure how much each shaker would be getting in series at 8 ohms, but it was good enough for me.

How would one test this if they didn't happen to have a Ham radio? Umm, I guess there's this thing called the internet and it can be searched...

Quick search found an interesting use for an Arduino, which I happen to have. Now, since all the Radio Shack's are gone, other parts are a little harder.

8-ohm speaker = amazon

1-megaohm resistor = amazon

insulated, solid-core wire = amazon

I'm sure someone can find a better choice for a small spool of wire!

I was in the same situation. I went with a Dayton Audio plate amplifier. Specifically this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SA70-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0002TUDKG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

My sub supports 130 watts rms @ 3 ohms so this is pumping 93 watts to it rms. It puts out plenty of bass for me. I probably could've gone with a less powerful amp, but it sounds great. It's quite large so finding somewhere to put it could be an issue, I hid mine behind a wall and ran wires to my sub behind my couch. They have a variety of models too at different price points:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_n_3?srs=6401467011&fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A281407%2Cn%3A172532%2Cn%3A11042061%2Cn%3A11042191&bbn=11042061&ie=UTF8&qid=1463738516&rnid=11042061

I'm going to be buying the following:

KEF Q150 - Amazon

Klipsch R12SW - Amazon

Yamaha A S501 - Amazon

They're going to be going into my PC.

I would like to know whether i would need to buy any extra cables in order to make it all work properly? Or does everything come ready to connect in the boxes?

I'm a complete audio noob, and this is going to be my first setup, so please bare with me.

Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0PXEN4

It's working pretty decently. Having a nice power supply helps drive it.

Check out this StarTech rack. I purchased it about 6 months ago and am really happy with it. If you just have half sized cases, the adjustable depth gives you a small footprint now (mines in my office), and the ability to expand it should you pick up a full size case (and having to get a new rack).

StarTech.com 25U Adjustable Depth Open Frame 4 Post Server Rack Cabinet with Casters/Levelers and Cable Management Hooks 4POSTRACK25U Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kB1dAbJ410C9K

Here is the link to the carrying case
The board fits perfectly in it, and it is also very cheap. I'm using such kind of cases for all my small boards like Planck or Let's Split, Amazon provides variety of different sizes.

I wanted to but I didn't. I will be rebuilding it. But I leaned some pro tips along the way. It's hard to make armrests stable. They like to wobble left and right. With a joystick, you want it to be solid at that point. Vertical screws through the x55 holes in the corners are nice.

I built in a tactile transducer with amp:
http://www.parts-express.com/aurasound-ast-2b-4-pro-bass-shaker-tactile-transducer--299-028

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SA70-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0002TUDKG

and it is absolutely essential. No way could I play without it any more!

You want a LOT of desk space. Room for mice. Remember that a standard keyboard is often wider than the space between armrests.

That's all I got. I ill be rebuilding mine soon.

Okay, are these two speakers the same?

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kef-q-series-5-25-2-way-bookshelf-speakers-pair-satin-black/5913623.p?skuId=5913623

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/

If so, then bestbuy will price match it and you will have achieved your goal of having me get KEF's hahah.

Also would the Topping MX3 be able to drive the KEF's well enough or nah? I love that the MX3 has a white version, so I don't have to vinyl wrap it

Haha. Yeah it's a nice box...

They come with the rack and then you just attach them where you want them. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK25U/dp/B00O6GNLQE

Better clarity, tighter bass. Yes, they are a different class of speaker. KEF replaced this model with the Q150s:

https://smile.amazon.com/KEF-Q150B-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/

For the price it's a top notch speaker. I decided to shell out just slight more and bought the Anker Premium Speaker. Half the price of the Bose Mini Very nearly as good It was was £54.99 when I bought it, looks like they sold out

[2015 New Release] Anker Stereo Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker (A3143), 20W Output from Two 10W Drivers, Dual Passive Radiators / Subwoofers for Bass, 8-hour Playtime, Portable Bluetooth Speaker for iPhone, iPad, Samsung, Nexus, HTC and More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0109TWZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ieh-wb3CKAD6K

I don't plan to carry this around a lot, but I just really like very small console-like mini PC systems. The Alienware Alpha was one of my inspirations and the length and width are almost the same. I wanted to do something with a similar size but with store-bought parts. I'd probably put it in a hard shell case like this one to take it around.

Also I can say that I used MDF to make the frame.

This was the fabric I used and I liked it a lot:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8PCU7I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this was the glue I used to secure it to the frames:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8A9YTO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally here is a link to a sort-of tutorial I made. Hope this helps.

https://imgur.com/gallery/fopSrBo

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I have this on my holiday wishlist, but saw this today and thought I could save myself a few bucks.

Okay, so you don't need HDMI inputs or anything? If so, the Denon is a huge overkill.

The sub will probably take the output from the receiver via RCA, and just have a standalone amp, without needing to pass the speakers through, since the receiver will probably have the crossover built in. You can use a plate amp, something like this.

By separate speaker sets, you mean that you've got sets you want to switch between, correct, not ones that you want to have on all at the same time?

Yes. You want to decouple the subwoofer from the floor. These can help some or a lot depending on your specifics.

https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-System/dp/B00NCSQ5GK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517948753&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=svs+soundpath&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00COVEJ1E/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1FALQDWORWLD3&colid=1A7M1ZICERB54&psc=1

option 1: Build your own, you can use wood and add these or something like them to get the mounting holes. this will let you build exactly to the size that you need, and can be done for pretty cheap .

option 2: Startech 25U 4 post rack with wheels

Sorry I was under the impression you already knew since you knew since you knew the correct wires for it were in the back of the amp, but now I know that's obviously a characteristic of all plate amps. =) This amp and these shakers.

Thanks for the feedback! I'll definitely hold back on the subwoofer at first, and reconsider Polk - now looking at Fluance. Also will keep an eye on Canuck Audio Mart for some used deals (not in any rush).

---

Thought on these options?

• [Fluance Signature L/R] (https://www.amazon.ca/Signature-Bookshelf-Surround-Speakers-HFS/dp/B01A5UB4JU) ($270 CAD)
  
• Fluance Signature Center ($230 CAD)
  
  VS.
  
  
• KEF Q150 L/R ($400 CAD)
  
• KEF Q650c Center ($850 CAD) (this is a bit steep for me, would wait a while to get/look used)
  
  VS.
  
  
• ELAC Debut B6.2 L/R ($340 CAD)
  
• ELAC Debut C6.2 Center ($330 CAD)

There are less demanding ways of feeling the bass. I put a reasonable sized Buttkicker inside my recliner at my listening station and powered it with a modest Dayton Audio 100ish wpc sub amp. At half volume it scares the cat off my lap. At a much saner level, it enhances sub bass and makes it seem much louder than it really is. Bonus, feeling as well as hearing the bass makes it easier to note the changes in pitch and whether a bass note is from a synth or a drum. You can either use the 2nd sub output on your amp for convenient tuning with the remote, or use a y splitter if you have a single sub out.

Total cost including cables ~$210

Buttkicker mini $89

Dayton Audio amp $79 70 watt

Dayton Audio amp $106 100 watt

The 70 setup should be enough to shake an entire couch to annoying levels. The transducer is very efficient and creates a lot of furniture or desk chair vibration with very little power. The "whomp" when the sub amp powers on was enough to launch it 3 inches up in the air when I test fired it on my desktop.

I'm very happy with this little guy here:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_RQYkybJW0X26F

As you can see its a german link, unfortunely I cannot find it at Amazon.com. Using it with Voicemeeter Banana to aditionally output the Riftsignal to the optical out of my onboard Realtek Soundcard. Thats going into a standard Amp. and from there into the bodyshaker - no noticeable latency.
Do not forget to set the Voicemeeters EQ so the only signal sent is for the bodyshaker (low pass filter). If you need help let me know.

I have a 10 in JL 10W3V3 setup in my office. I looked at getting a 12 volt transformer to dump power into the amp but in the end the most inexpensive way to drive my 4 olm sub was to get on of these and bolt it onto the box.

I did and it sounds amazing!

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0070Z81MW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here's what I got. It's 25u open and adjustable for $250. I'm pretty sure monstermuffin had the 12u version of this before upgrading

my advice, buy some cheap bananas plug, they are cool and practical. if your kid (or you) step on the cable, it's more safe.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Gold-Connector-Banana-Plugs/dp/B0090CVJZ4/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1453750572&sr=1-6&keywords=banana+plugs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased this yesterday, should be here thursday, felt like a good buy.

I would say that this amp together with this Kef or this Klipsch would probably make you happy and get you a lot of bang for your bucks.

Edit: Sorry! I saw that I went over your budget by a little bit, but it's only about 10% more, and it probably would be worth it.

Looked into Tactile Transducers like this as they will work attached to any seat: https://www.amazon.com/Clark-Synthesis-TST239-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B00JZTOIE6

If you're mostly wanting to feel the bass that is. I used one of these once in my car and I have to say they can give a nice back message.

Can you guys look this over and make sure I have something worth buying? I have about $1000 to spend on a 2.1 setup for a computer desktop setup.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier

Then finally one of these three.

Klipsch R-100SW 10" Subwoofer

Klipsch R-120SW 10" Subwoofer

or

Klipsch Reference R-10SW 10" 300w Powered Subwoofer

Also would I need to buy the speaker wires to set these up or do they come with wire?

If you want a portable one this is brilliant

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z81MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1425853459&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=250+watt+subwoofer+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51lNgdPk9AL&ref=plSrch

Not sure if this fits your specifications but I've berm looking at it and it has favorable reviews. I was just going to use it for a bass transducer setup though.

Standard depth for dell servers is ~30 inches. If you're using the rapid rails they have a range of +-2inches.


I recently got this rack set it to 30 inches and it fits my R710 wonderfully with rapid rails.

If you are a more DIY-guy you can get a pair of auroras ( price per pair ) together with a subwoofer-amp , In my opinion this set is superior to the Buttkicker Gamer 2 (even one Aurora would be enough though, you don't necessarily need a pair)

i've been looking into a rack, I know you said diy but this one has a good price.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK25U/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1449928394&sr=8-8&keywords=server+rack

Ok, sorry for the late reply. Here would be my top choices based on this.

Speakers

KEF Q100

KEF Q150

Emotiva B1


Amplifier

Yamaha A-S501

FYI it was the same price last year from nov to feb, not a bad price though: https://charts.camelcamelcamel.com/us/B071P6KQZX/amazon.png?force=1&zero=0&w=855&h=513&desired=false&legend=1&ilt=1&tp=all&fo=0&lang=fr_FR

I got LEPY 2024A Plus Amplifier £26 from amazon and a Reckhorn Body shaker BS-200 £45. You need to set up some audio software, I used voicemeeter banana. For a budget option it works quite well IMO.

https://www.amazon.ca/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-Pack/dp/B00NCSQ5GK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501347500&sr=8-1&keywords=svs+feet

I installed a set of these on my subwoofer. By isolating the subwoofer from the room my ability to localize where the bass was coming from almost completely disappeared. It has this "subwoofer must be hanging in the middle of the room on a string" sound to it.

Plus if a bump the subwoofer it just jiggles... Like it's made of jello!

All, head over to the KEF site. They have this deal (among others) live now.

https://www.shop.us.kef.com/q150-bookshelf-speaker.html

Edit: Looks like the deal at A4L is also live.

Edit: Deal also available on Amazon.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxfWDb6CXX1AN

Good plan. I think I'll just order one of these: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00O6GNLQE/

25U, $250 dropped on my doorstep, and up to 40" of depth.

KEF q150 is on sell. These uniq drivers are good for nearfield listening
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=twister_B071SGSFWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Got the shaker on amazon. Reckhorn Bs-200 Bass Shaker / Tactile Transducer for Your Home Theater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WzwEwbXJVYEMX

The amp you can get on amazon also, but I got it direct from the amazon seller cheaper. Cannot remember model, but it's a Dayton 70wRMS mono amp procured from parts- warehouse.com

Try something like this.

I'd recommend the StarTech 25U instead: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Adjustable-Levelers-Management-4POSTRACK25U/dp/B00O6GNLQE

The price isn't that much different and this one is adjustable and looks higher quality.

StarTech 25U Rack Byte My Bits put one together on his channel and he seems to like it

I got the 25U version of this one and like it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/

You could get the 12U version for under $200.

Something like this may be what you are looking for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HMBKNSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ivG2DbPD9X1NP

KEF Q150 please.

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B0728GJWD9/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499666902&sr=1-1&keywords=kef%2Bq150&th=1

Are you looking for something enclosed or is a 4 post OK? I couldn't find anything locally that wasn't a 42U and got tired of waiting around. I picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's depth adjustable - max depth is 40" if I remember correctly. I have mine set in the middle at 34" and it holds my Lenovo RD650 just fine.

There is also a 12U version if you are looking for something smaller.

It is this exact one:

StarTech.com 25U Open Frame Server Rack - Adjustable Depth - 4-Post Data Rack - w/Casters/Levelers/Cable Management Hooks (4POSTRACK25U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vvOWCb877H47N


Not too hard to assemble, and it feels really solid.

I'm all about 3D Printing and creating purpose-built tools, but would it make more sense just to buy a metal rack shelf for $25?

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Cantilever-14-Deep/dp/B0773BRBVF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=rack+shelf&qid=1568759730&sr=8-5

My SVS PB12 arrives Friday and I cannot wait. I ended up buying the SVS Soundpath to get the subwoofer isolated since I have laminate flooring. Just to check it out I put my HTIB subwoofer on the isolation pads and played a few scenes that my sub always tends to rattle and sound horrible if I have the volume too high. It made a huge difference. My sub actually kind of got through the scenes without sounding so terrible. When the PB12 arrives I'll definitely be putting it on these.

I also upgraded my LCR speakers to Micca RB42 and RB42C this year. I have been happy. I was going to jump on the KEF Q150 sale but I realized my subwoofer is the reason my audio isn't as great as it could be. This is my first real subwoofer and it took a while to convince myself to spend this much vs a Dayton 1500 or BIC Acoustech PLII or even that Infinity sub posted around these threads.

Apristel is right got it off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fQoQCbY8WG2FW

Just search on Amazon: Startech 25u


StarTech.com 25U Open Frame Server Rack - Adjustable Depth - 4-Post Data Rack - w/Casters/Levelers/Cable Management Hooks (4POSTRACK25U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fQoQCbY8WG2FW

The Q150's were $300 for months

https://camelcamelcamel.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/product/B071P6KQZX

Here's a price chart on the Amazon prices. If I were a gambling man I'd say they'd hit $300 again. Not really a deal at $350 open box IMO.

I bought a open frame triplite 25U for around $250 on amazon for my R710 and associated network gear. I'd rather have a enclosure, but they are outside my price range.

Here's a decent open frame starter for around the same price with casters included. I'd have bought this if it was available at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE

With that I bout a bunch of navepoint rack shelf and full length trays for mounting nonrackable gear. Then inherited a few cable management units.

ForMusic :

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrn303bl/yamaha-r-n303-2-ch-x-100-watts-networking-stereo-receiver/1.html


https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/cantchrono5022blka/canton-chrono-502.2-6-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-black-pair/1.html

Or

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/kefq150blka/kef-q150-5.25-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-black-pair-new/1.html


https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX

Or


https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/bosa360gba/boston-acoustics-a360-dual-6.5-3-way-floor-standing-speaker-black-each/1.html

.

Unless you want it For Home Theater too, then :

Denon S640 5.1 4K, WiFi, Bluetooth, phono input

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs640h/denon-avr-s640h-5.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

DCM 3 piece

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pair-of-6-5-Bookshelf-Speakers-with-2-Way-Center-Channel-Speaker-DCM-MTX/174060660626

https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/dwtwxd/dcm_tp160s_vs_the_svs_ultra_bookshelf/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Sub

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628

Considering the ones you've already been looking at and the $300 price point, get the KEF Q150s and forget everything else.

You said "contemporary form factor" though, then proceeded to mention the Klipsch and Micca, which aren't winning any awards for design in my book. If you want something that really looks clean and modern and also has an integrated amplifier, check out the Kanto YU6.

I use these and I have moved a few times and they have held up with me unplugging and re-plugging multiple times.

These are made by SVS for their subs, but probably would work for most spikes:

https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-System/dp/B00NCSQ5GK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504197282&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=svs+spike

I'm getting this one xD

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519655910&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=server+rack+startech&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00O6GNLQE

4POSTRACK25U is the model

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ7Cq5RBcYE&app=desktop

This is probably what you're looking for...

Startech 25U 4-Post Adjustable Depth

It's the startech 4 post, 25u rack.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+25u&qid=1567623107&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

or

​

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Open-Frame-Server-Rack/dp/B00P1RJ9LS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+12u&qid=1567623209&s=gateway&sr=8-3

How large are you talking? Startech has some decently sized smaller scale racks. $250 for a 25u: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZQSDzbV66XXJ6

Startech makes a 12U and 25U, ranging between 200$ and 240$ or so.

I think I paid 225$ for my 25U , neither is enclosed

Ah, gotcha.

I have the 25U StarTech one and it's decent. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522117077

I'd say the closest to this that you can buy online would be the Startech racks - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525558029&sr=8-3&keywords=20u+rack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very solidly built

Same as ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6GNLQE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

In realtà non sacrifichi i cavi proprio per nulla, anzi: la cassa la devi comunque ricaricare e invece che fare un bel lavoro di cable management una volta per tutte ti tocca ogni volta o spostare la cassa da un'altra parte o attaccare un cavo volante.. Comunque io ho questa e mi trovo veramente bene!

Man, it's just gonna be a cheap 8-Ohm speaker; if it's 1980s, probably from Japan, MAYBE Mexico or China. You can get them just about anywhere. If you have a really old desktop computer sitting around, you'll find one inside the case.

Here's a 3" from Adafruit.

Here's a pair of 2".

If you're looking to replace the speaker inside that flashlight/radio, you're going to have to open up the case anyway, so what's holding you back?

This is the one I got

I picked up a pair of cat proof KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers to replace my floor standing scratchign posts.

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-White-x/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543161769&sr=1-4&keywords=kef&th=1

$300, almost 50% off retail.

Are you looking for powered speakers or will you have an amplifier? Because these KEF's are $300 right now and are usually $550 https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=cw18dealspage

I’d ask the budgetaudiophile for a second opinion but if you have access to an amp

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX

For starters, these are $550: https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black-x/dp/B071P6KQZX

Amazon i got the 14" variant but shorter length are cheaper

Amazon only has the white ones on sale but you can get black on the KEF site.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728GJWD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pEW9Bb23AWPAT

https://www.kefdirect.com/specials/specials/q150-bookshelf-speaker.html

Sorry for the fugly links my phone isn’t working properly today.

There’s also some JBL powered monitors on sale, you’d have to get two of these and some extra kit, but they’re also highly regarded...

JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hJW9BbX4SVFJC

Would you recommend the SVS Isolation Feet or Auralex Acoustic Foam or both?

>https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-4POSTRACK25U-Adjustable-Server-Cabinet/dp/B00O6GNLQE/ref=sr\_1\_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538746126&sr=8-3&keywords=25u+startech

Cheap shelves? not really. I have some spares that I will sell to you for cheap if you pay for shipping. PM me and I can send you pictures.

Those are usually APC, Dell, HP, Cisco, etc - commercial grade stuff. StarTech and a few others make consumer and commercial grade products, so generally open racks, 25U, adjustable, rather than only bulletproof sturdy cage/door racks.

Here's the StarTech 25U one I have (I picked it up used off Kijiji though, $80)

Here's a similar one from Tripp-Lite, also 25U open. Don't usually see these in datacenters, because those are all 42U/45U, enclosed.

That being said, the StarTech rack is excellent, as it's adjustable depth, has casters, and a lower profile than something with front/back door + side panels. Depends on budget + needs. I'm in a condo, so having a 42U+ closed rack would be way overkill (and a pain to even get into the elevator...)

There are a ton of options available on amazon. I’ll be purchasing these SVS isolation feet for a PB-1000 when I buy it in the next few weeks. I live in an apartment so I’m in the same boat.

Forgot to mention, the SVS Sound isolation feet work phenomenally well. I have them on my sub, stopped all transmission through the floor.
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-Pack/dp/B00NCSQ5GK
Edit: the Audessey app is for iOS and Android, just lets you edit specific curves and settings not available through the receiver