Reddit mentions: The best thumb screws

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005RTF0NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and threaded inserts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

I have some big plans for these two, but part of those plans involve integrations. I do have modifying experience with epoxy putty, removing ARs, switching springs, and more, but I've never combined shells before.

Here's what I'm thinking about doing with these blasters.

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For the Slingfire I want to give it metal gears, a 9 kg spring, a thumbscrew for the stock, and a detachable long brass barrel so the whole thing can fit in a smaller bag.


I think I'll cut off the shell's "barrel" entirely and remove the flat feeder mechanism. I'll cut the new barrel attachment piece down so that the recon barrel is flush when it's attached. I'm debating if I should just keep the attachment whole and glue it to half the shell, or cut the attachment in half and glue each half to a different shell half.


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The Ball launcher will be more tricky. What I might try is either replacing the elastic with a better one or just switching it out entirely with some kind of wire and pull spring set up. I think there's real potential in the tennis ball launcher. I just haven't found anybody that was willing to spend the time to experiment with its internals.

I think to make the stock attachment work I'll cut a recon's attachment point from its shell and glue the two halves to the tennis ball launcher shell. I'll probably drill long screws and stuff some epoxy putty in it as reinforcement.

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I hope that what I said makes sense and that anybody cares enough to read it.

Made it myself for easier adjustment of the brace on the dimpled tube.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010FRNO9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1nTmzbC7QT2EF

5/16"-18 X 1.75" long worked well. It is a little longer than needed and has a flat end. This allows you some room to modify the end to a small point so it can interface with the dimples on the kak pistol tube. I used a dremel and would grind then check until I was satisfied with where it bottomed out.

http://imgur.com/GoYHkTI

http://imgur.com/CVYyRIK

http://imgur.com/19PPn3s

Yeah I haven't shortened it yet I actually got the info from another redditor I'll find the info and his name after work.

U/nitsuJcixelsyD showed me the screw

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010FRNO9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1nTmzbC7QT2EF

Here's the link. Best buy them quick I need more.

Have you contacted Zhiyun support?

Otherwise, you could try picking up a 1/4"-20 thumb screw from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RTFGBC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-Shoulder-Knurled-Screws/dp/B01N6AGR0H/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521944751&sr=8-7&keywords=1%2F4%22++thumbscrew

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Quick-Release-Female-Thread/dp/B00CBSL30K/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1521944776&sr=8-20&keywords=1%2F4%22++thumbscrew

Your local hardware store will have them (or Home Depot/Lowes). Bring one of yours with you, so that you can match the threads and size.

If not, then Amazon has everything :)
http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-Thumb-Screw-10-Pack/dp/B004MF2ZVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1416110488&sr=1-1

So we're talking something like these?

Antrader 16-Piece M6 Male Thread Knurled Thumb 20mm Screw Thread Length Screw on Type Round Head Clamping Knobs

Best $12 you'll ever spend

You back the wheel out and attach to port and then attach your hose. Then you screw in the thumb wheel which moves a plunger down to engage the schrader core.

The case screws are generally metric M3:

10mm: https://www.amazon.com/Thumb-Screws-Metric-Thread-Knurled/dp/B01H0CNLH4

20mm: https://www.amazon.com/LBY-Knurled-Screw-Single-Combination/dp/B07GVC4Q7D/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=M3+20mm&qid=1564139185&s=industrial&sr=1-1

Hope this helps

I'm sure this isn't the right size, but I found this on Amazon just searching "metric thumbscrew." As long as you know the size and thread pitch you should be able to find something.

Why not put some low loss fittings on them? Or something like this

C&D CD5050 Small Thumb Screw Core Depressor / Flow Control Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Gb4DbFQF24S3

Thumbscrews, yes. Wingnuts, no. There's no clearance for the bolt/stud to which the wingnut is screwed.

These are what I used.

Core depressors are the actual name for them.

https://www.amazon.com/Thumbscrew-Core-Depressor-Part-CD5050/dp/B01HQG4OB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499473238&sr=8-1&keywords=CD5050

I have three, because sometimes an oil injector or something will have a valve that needs depressed.

This is how you used them as 'low-loss fittings'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvNbS8k1U-4

Core depressors by c&d valves they have two styles 410 and normal. I have both and you can pressure test and vacuum through them. I prefer them because they’re easy and I lose way less than ball or low loss. They also come with 4 replacement gaskets it they start to leak. Every supply house usually carry them.
https://www.amazon.com/Valve-CD2060-Large-Depressor-attaches/dp/B0195UPA5A