Reddit mentions: The best wind speed gauges

I'd like to understand more about your motor selection and what makes you confident it's not the limiting factor. Your blower looks amazing, I could see that thing churning out a ton of air.

Another poster mentioned the Matthias Wandel video and he uses a tachomoter to measure the blade RPM. You should consider doing that to see what RPM your blades are actually getting to. He also uses a anemometer to measure the effective airflow to compare.

I'm relatively convinced if you increase the power going into the blower you can achieve the flow you need.

This temp gun is pretty similar (I can't find the same one I have, but it's just a cheap one)

And yeah, environmental conditions make a big difference, but smaller local changes affect it too. Walking outside from a controlled climate into whatever is natural is pretty disruptive even for easy-to-TC coil materials. TC is just finicky to begin with. DNA mods account for it with extra temp sensors that read changes in ambient temperature, but even that only goes so far, and is susceptible to things like bodyheat influencing it.

You can, but what might be easier is to balance what you have.

Get a cheap anemometer and measure the flow from each vent. Then start closing down the high output ones until all vents have roughly the same flow. From that point you can close or open individual ones as needed to get the perfect set-up:

https://www.amazon.com/BTMETER-Anemometer-Thermometer-Temperature-Precision/dp/B07FPBP2WX

Before you do anything, you should either balance the system yourself, or hire someone to do it.

Maybe you do have a system that is insufficient for your needs. It happens all the time. But you first should make sure that the current one is working to peak efficiency, before you spend your money.

If you want to try this yourself, you might look into purchasing two items. A non-contact thermometer:

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter-IR-20-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00R19ANCS

And an air flow meter:

https://www.amazon.com/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4

This way you can quickly see how much air is coming out of each vent, and how cold or hot it is. This will allow you to balance out the system, helping to insure even airflow into all the rooms, on all stories.

Proper airflow is the key. If you have dampers, adjustable registers, or both, then using these tools should allow you to reduce the conditioned air where you don't need it, and send it in sufficient volumes to where you do want it.

Checkout external shades at Costco. Best price for remote controlled shades. It can take over a month to to get from the time you ordered to the day you get it. It keeps your house a lot cooler and being external when it's up it looks great as you don't see it inside. Be aware that the fabric is about 4 inches shorter than what's listed, so a 10' has 9'8" of covering; the housing is 10'. Just be aware that automation of this can get expensive quick: http://www.amazon.com/Somfy-SO9012500-Soliris-Sun-Wind-Sensor-2c/dp/B00HHE120E

Still MANY questions about this... how long do you need to to last, range of wind, what do you want to interface with - what is your knowledge or time you want to spend.....

Here is a "Manual" one, that pretty easily could interface to something like an arduino with a pickup - to more complete systems.

> Also, be aware that if you use that transmitter you have an accuracy of +/- 0.1 psi which doesn't meet your original requirements.

if you look at this chart [http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Transmitters/SeriesDM-2000], I will be selecting model number "DM-2003-LCD". It has range of 0"-0.5" of water. With 1% FS accuracy, it will give +/-0.005" of water accuracy. It is more than enough

>can i ask for a better description of what your attempting to accomplish?

This is for my final year project. I am trying to estimate the remaining life of an airplane filter. It is a rectangular filter with dimensions of 3" by 5". I have designed a housing to sandwich the filter in between. It is airtight and it has 2" dia intlets and outlets. Pressure drop condition given to us have been measured at a set inlet flow rate. Therefore, before I attempt to measure the pressure drop, I have to make sure the flow rate is correct. I am also thinking to put an anemometer at the circular inlet ,
and calculate the velocity at the cross section just before air goes into the filter.[https://www.amazon.ca/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518621498&sr=8-2&keywords=anemometer] However, I don't know if doing that would yield accurate results. As you mentioned pitot tube also has its own drawback, as it measures the velocity of very small section. You would need a grid of those to get an accurate velocity measurement. Our final design needs to be something like a kit, therefore easy to assembly and operate. Putting a grid of pitot tubes is not preferable. Therefore I am considering to use an anemometer. What do you think?

>get the ATIS and try to taxi around an airport

A tailwheel will probably take you into airports where the wind direction varies depending on where you are on the field. Hangers, trees, and surrounding terrain funnel the wind.

I found it helpful to walk around the airport before flying with https://smile.amazon.com/Freehawk-Wind-Speed-Meter-Gauge/dp/B07DB32TRP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=wind+meter&qid=1554905011&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 and see how the wind varied. Once I learned what to expect, I could anticipate stuff like the whooshing crosswind that only shows up in the middle of the field due to a large hanger and change in elevation.

Did you use any tools to do this, or just your best guesstimate?:

https://www.amazon.com/HOLDPEAK-Anemometer-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Adjustable/dp/B0798L398S

You can get a lot closer if you can actually can take readings and compare each vents' performance.

Sounds like you've diagnosed unbalanced airflow. First, follow the route that the air takes as it travels from the air handler out to the rooms, and between the floors. Have you ever seen a small handle that you don't know what it does? Some systems have dampers placed within the system, to adjust airflow during the seasons. If you have one or more, they may be in the wrong position, restricting to flow to upstairs.

You might want to buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B

It will help you even out the flow between vents, so that all rooms can share equally in what your system is capable of putting out.

Found one that is close, but would be better to have it in standard outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Wires-Generator-250Rpm-Power-Collector/dp/B00MYYTWQ8/

Read up on your circle area calculation. Some devices measure in square feet for the area and some in square inches. I never thought I would have to use math again until I got into woodworking...

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This is the one I use when I setup my DC. I think it was sold under a differnet name but looks the exact same. Let me know if you need help.

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Anemometer-Measuring-Collection-Windsurfing/dp/B01FTPX566

I am using one of these to balance the air flow to my tents. You sound like you have it under control, but for anyone with a tent that is all sucked in when you zipper it, I suggest using a CFM Calculator and possibly adding a fresh air supply to your grow room area to balance pressure.

Growing in a negative pressure situation will restrict cooling across your hoods and lights as well. Also using a Controller that shuts off your CO2 pump when the fan runs, will keep your ppm on point.

I like this thread. This community is awesome.

With an anemometer https://imgur.com/a/3Y8BkAK
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X5VGZP5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WCfYDbE232KR2

You're looking for about 90FPM + coming out across the filter face. Evenly. If you are seeing large speed spikes or drops in different spots it will create turbulance possibly drawing contaminants into your work.

>The air at the vent is coming out cold

Measure temp with a thermometer, not touching the metal but sticking a probe in. Needs to be coming out at least 14 degrees colder than the temp you want to set after running for 20 mins. Mine range from 50-60F at the vent.

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For air flow you need exact numbers. Measure the return and vents. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UL4BKAE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1O3D5U39NRAZV&psc=1

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If you can't feel the air flow out of any vents maybe you have a main damper that's closed.

I have a mechanical anemometer I bought off amazon for like $25us and it works great but I use it to measure higher speed wind 5-20 knots, so not sure how well it would work at lower levels. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZHKWCP4

Do you have any experience with this one?

makes total sense

https://www.amazon.com/Wires-Generator-250Rpm-Power-Collector/dp/B00MYYTWQ8

Handheld anemometer

Measure the dimensions of the outlet to calculate the area.

Multiply the area times the velocity.

It's a Anemometer aka Wind Speed Meter
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KYL3VNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7jd2CbVBDK0N4

Get a dimmable lamp hood like this one and use any white light basking bulb. You can go to any hardware store and get a couple feet of chain for a couple dollars, and some screw in hooks to hang it from. If you use the clamp it could fall and burn your tort or catch the substrate on fire. And then get a point and shoot thermometer gun like this one to check the temp directly under the bulb. Putting a piece of slate for your tort to lay on under the lamp is also a good idea. About $1 for a square foot or you could look for a broken piece they may give you for free.