Reddit mentions: The best wood conditioners, waxes & oils

For all wood vape owners out there!

There are plenty of good wood conditioners out there, I suggest applying some to keep your wood nice and hydrated and to make the grain pop. It feels nicer in the hand to me too. And the after picture is only after one coat.

Some vapes come finished already so this only applies to unfinished wood.

Look for products used as butcher block/cutting board conditioners since they are food safe and use natural ingredients like beeswax, caranuba Wax, and natural oils.

Here's what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JXS7TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OFrLDbJAAJM9X

Just wipe it on with a rag, let it soak for 30 minutes+ (I do overnight), wipe it off, and let it dry for a bit. Super easy and it will look and feel much better.

I considered tung oil or even a poly finish but this is much safer and easier and gives a good result.

This is my milaana 1 but my milaana 2 came with some deep scratches in the wood so I sanded it with 180-220 grit and then finished it with the same conditioner and it looks incredible. I'll do a before and after and a guide for sanding it to a smoother finish soon.

For the mineral oil I buy it by the gallon off amazon but any food grade mineral oil is pretty much the same, just make sure it's not scented.

I buy the beeswax locally at a farmer's market but any food grade pure beeswax should work fine.

The oil you linked is just mineral oil with a little bit of beeswax and some vitamin E oil. It's pretty much exactly the same as what I described just with a low ratio of beeswax, probably something like 1:6 or 1:10. Perfectly fine to apply a board butter over it.

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

Yep... if you are using it for food prep, then definitely don't stain it. What you want to use is Food Grade Mineral oil. You can find it in the grocery store near the laxatives (yep, people use it as a laxative).

Basically it helps to think of cutting boards as a sponge; to be effective it's needs to be damp, in this case with mineral oil.

You can also buy food grade finishes that are a mix between mineral oil and various waxes. You will be shocked at how fantastic it looks after you wipe it down the first time. I make cutting boards and you can see here what a good board looks like with just mineral oil.

Here's our instructions on how to care for wood cutting boards.

Here's an amazon link to john boos products the oil is just oil, and the conditioner is oil with some waxes mixed in.

Good luck!

Easy.

The best stuff for knives, IMO, is mineral oil. It's a pretty good lubricant, a pretty good rust preventive, it's tasteless, orderless, colorless, stable, and non-toxic.

Plain old regular gun oil is mineral oil, like this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Bottle/dp/B01N276AI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499553423&sr=8-1&keywords=hoppes+gun+oil

Note that you can get five times as much if it says "cutting board oil" on the label, and this stuff is actually certified food grade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUJZCZK/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=tMFxb&pf_rd_r=G2PZQRNR43B7A9P8JZEX&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00EUJZCZK&pd_rd_w=w6KUs&pf_rd_i=cutting+board+oil&pd_rd_r=TA5JECAD1BSQS3Z8VY60&ie=UTF8&qid=1499553407&sr=1

A couple of drops on a paper towel, wipe it on the exposed metal, wipe it off. That's all you need. Take care to store fixed blade knives outside of leather sheaths, the leather left in contact with metal can hold moisture and tanning chemicals against the steel and cause rust. (Your sheath is metal but the leather loop can still damage the handle).

Other folks use wax instead of oil, usually this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=renaissance+wax&sprefix=ren%2Caps%2C350&crid=3R8WKKC9JJEM6

I have no personal experience but it seems to work great. You use one or the other, not both.

I started refinishing my parents' 1961 teak furniture set, beginning with nesting tables and an end table. (1) First, I cleaned the surfaces using a clean cloth dipped in water & liquid Dawn; then rinsed and dried. (2) I used #000 steel wool and mineral spirits to hand-rub with the grain and deep-clean the surfaces, then wiped off the debris with a microcloth. I did this several times. (3) I applied clear (neutral) stain with a clean applicator pad, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then wiped off excess. After it dried, I repeated this application. (4) To finish, I applied a light top-coat of Renaissance wax and buffed the surface. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0EK92C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not experienced at this and I probably could have done more to remove dark stains, but the veneer was so thin on the tables that I was afraid to do much aggressive sanding. Everything was done by hand to control the progress.

I bought a giant jug of it off Amazon. I also bought some beeswax pellets. I usually condition with just the mineral oil, but every now and then I'll instead use the 'board butter' I made (melt beeswax and mix in mineral oil, allow to cool). Total cost was about $35 but I now have a fuckton of mineral oil and board butter.

Beeswax

Mineral Oil

Also, this stuff is great for other wooden utensils or dishes you might have in your kitchen, such as knife handles, spoons, and salad bowls. Mineral oil also doesn't go rancid, unlike olive oil or coconut oil.

Seems like I will start this project since there is plenty of people supporting this. I mean is not a bad idea, and it will be a cheaper response to the new obelisk immersion, Here is a list of the things (materials) I am thinking in using:

-Obelisk SC1 3400$: https://www.amazon.com/Obelisk-SC1-Miner-Batch-Hand/dp/B07K8WYMP1/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=obelisk+sc1&qid=1550978014&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

-10 gallon fish tank for 23.79$: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Culture-Gallon-Empty-Aquarium/dp/B06XQQKDL8/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=fish+tank&qid=1550977811&s=gateway&sr=8-25

-10 Gallons of mineral Oil 89.99$: 2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A394TN1KG6QJPX&psc=1

​

Obelisk SC1 Immerse in mineral oil (Ghetto Style) Total: 3603$

I think that is pretty much it, do you think there is anything else that could be included in this list?

I've had good results using Deoxit on the backend threads. Cleans everything really well and helps keep the backend cool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XICZILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jmP1xbEG76545

I think the mineral oil I got is pretty safe. It's Food Grade Mineral Oil it can be safely used on you skin. Also most baby oils are basically just mineral oil so I think not all mineral oils are carcinogen or harmful.

If/when you do get them polished up, if you want to keep their shine longer (especially brass), check out Renaissance Wax

Pricey, but it lasts a very long time and you only need tiny amounts of it. Used by preservationists/restorationists a great deal.

Agree totally....unless it goes belly up and I wish I had just left it alone. It take time and effort but the knowledge you are never lost, makes me want to experiment. I really should go back in on my Full Chubb but it is so close to being right I am trying to swerve my OCD: https://i.imgur.com/nkQNiVL.jpg
The only other 'polish' I would recommend is a cleaning paste by Renaissance: https://www.amazon.com/PRE-LIM-Surface-Cleaner-Ceramics-Enamels/dp/B00J7UJREO
Then, regardless of what I use I always employ: Renaissance Micro Crystalline wax polish to finish the job off: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM
This stuff is my go to!
Idle.

Try Howards Restore a Finish. Use a soft cloth moistened with Howards and rub in small circles over the entire top. It will clean and renew what finish is left on the top. If there isn't much finish left, you are left with stripping and refinishing. If this is so, PM me and I can point you in the right direction.

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-RF5008-Restor-A-Finish-8-Ounce-
Mahogany/dp/B003DNRH34/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381419677&sr=8-3&keywords=howards+restore+a+finish

Those white rings can possibly be removed by placing a clean dry tea towel over and applying a hot iron to it without the steam on. The rings are usually caused by moisture forced under the finish, the heat will bring it up into the towel.

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-Mini-Brush-Applicator-Contact-Conditioner/dp/B00XICZILS

Boosted sent me some deoxit for free a long time ago. Been hearing that they're slow to respond lately so included a link above. It's not that expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Cheng-Concrete-Sealer-500-Ml/dp/B003YM7RRK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480099341&sr=8-1&keywords=cheng+concrete+sealer

https://www.amazon.com/Cheng-Concrete-Countertop-Wax/dp/B003YM5LH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480099341&sr=8-2&keywords=cheng+concrete+sealer

works pretty well

I used this stuff called Walrus Oil. I like it because it's food safe and doesn't smell. So I can finish items at my coffee table while I'm watching TV at night.

Hey, I drill a lot of holes, I keep one of these full of tap magic, works great.

I am looking for a natural oil finish and I want to avoid toxic substances and fumes. I tried food grade white mineral oil but the surface is still greasy a week later (its possible i did not put it on correctly). I saw some forum posts that people claimed its because mineral oil is a non-drying oil and it will always feel that way. So far this is what I have come up with Tried & True Oil and Walrus Oil has anyone used either of these or have other suggestions?

A magnet strip should have any and all good quality knives, brand doesn’t matter as long as you enjoy it. Humid or not rust finds a way unless in the desert lol. I use mineral oil as a barrier for any water could splash in my knife without me noticing. Plus if you ever own carbon steel knives it’s a habit you must keep. The blocks are worse since they trap moisture and the wood can run against the edge and dull it. Magnetic strip is best.

I use this mineral oil. 3 little drops each side with a paper towel. 4 oz - Food Grade Mineral Oil for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JEO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So like 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Gal-Mineral-Stainless-Cutting-Butcher/dp/B00VNI1JH6 and a 10 gallon tank?

like this one? I didn’t even know they existed so I don’t know. I don’t know what a reasonable price for mineral oil would be but heres 5 gallons of it

I can do that. I bought the steel wool and used some with the wax/oil mixture like the instructions suggested to get rid of steam stains. It kinda worked but it also kind of sanded it down and made the color lighter. Also the wax seems to have made part of the wood darker. I’m wondering if I should just bit the bullet and sand it or strip it and stain it then seal it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Formby-30115-300115-Treatment-16-Ounce/dp/B0015R7VY0

I have used Walrus Oil - https://www.amazon.com/WALRUS-OIL-Cutting-Butcher-Food-Safe/dp/B074QVDKYC., followed by their wood wax - https://www.amazon.com/WALRUS-OIL-Food-Safe-Cutting-Board/dp/B075LP6ZGC/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2/130-6165422-9216561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075LP6ZGC&pd_rd_r=bf1a6641-da2f-49a5-b4f5-655363aedb26&pd_rd_w=v2prV&pd_rd_wg=x1vms&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=10ARAW1HTA5SDVHJW2VH&psc=1&refRID=10ARAW1HTA5SDVHJW2VH.

I used Hut Crystal Coat after wiping with mineral spirits. All while still on the lathe.

[On Amazon](HUT Crystal Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MG8CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kz.Nyb2DF7Q10)

I looked it up. Bowling alley paste is a paste wax https://www.amazon.com/Bowling-Alley-Wax-Clear-Paste/dp/B0081N6KHK

I'd go with Tap Magic, that way you can say "I'd tap that".

way way way overpriced https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[$24.10/gal, food grade mineral oil](UltraSource 501333 Food Grade Mineral Oil, NSF, 1 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_EaW3wbW6M47GC.)

I buy both from my local woodworking store, but I've seen General Finishes Butcher Block oil at Lowes before as well. The beeswax is a locally made one for me, so not sure where to tell you to find it.
Here's the amazon link for it.

Amazon sells mineral oil for around $80 per 5 gallons

5 Gal - Food Grade Mineral Oil for Stainless Steel, Cutting Boards and Butcher Blocks, NSF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4JcwDbR5MM07C