Reddit mentions: The best arc welding equipment

This is a project I've been working on the past couple months. What I wanted to achieve was a stealthy, all-in-one solution. I like the idea of space buckets but I like hydroponics (here DWC) even more, so I combined them into one.

As for the description, let's begin from the bottom:
As you can see here the lower part of the barrel is filled with 15-20l of nutrient solution. The solution is oxygenated by the aquarium air pump, then the solution is top-fed to the plant 24/7 the first couple of weeks (to promote faster growth).
A ball valve allows for easy filling and draining.

After that a disk out of thick plastic makes the floor which the mesh pot sits in. On that level there's also the air intake which at the moment creates positive pressure, but once I flower in there it will be fixed to the air outlet to create negative pressure. That air will then be pushed through activated carbon.

The pot is nothing special, I even made it myself out of a regular pot and a dremel. It's filled with small-sized hydroton balls.
The bottom, walls, and lid are all painted with a 50/50 mixture out of flat PU-white (sticks to plastic) and BaSO4 (Barium sulfate). This pushes reflection throughout the whole spectrum into the high 90 per cents. Thanks /u/superangryguy for finding that study.

On two levels on the wall I can fix self-made trellis rings for ScrOGing. There's a large door on one side to get to the plants easier for training etc. On the edges it's insulated to be light- and air-proof with foam tape. The tape will be fixed to the door with neodymium magnets which will also improve the insulation.

In/on the lid there's the heat sink with the two COB-LEDs mounted with screws. Thermal grease was added to improve thermal conduction (duh.. :D). The chinese LEDs are definitely not driven at 100W (like you could do with Crees or Vero 29s) but kept at about 50-70W. That also makes thermal management easier.

As for the general supply of energy: the 360W driver brings the voltage down from 230/120V down to 30V. From there two small buck converter bring it further down to 5V (microcontroller) and 12V (fans and maybe later LED strip). For the LEDs there's the 150W boost converter to bring the voltage up again to in between 30 and 36V, thus controlling the output power (visible on the amp- and volt-meter).

The chip controls the on-off-times of the LEDs (18/6 and 12/12), regulates the cooling of heatsink and air inside the barrel, and it can also output the sensor values of sink and air temperature as well as humidity. The lights can also be switched on and off manually and of course the user switches from veg to flower.

I think that's it for the concept so far. If something isn't understandable or I left something out, just ask :)


Here are the Parts:

part | price
-------|-----------
barrel with lid - 120l | $20
100W LEDs - 3500K and 5000K | $2 each
360W driver - 24V 10A | $25
150W boost converter | $3
Heat sink | $18
Volt + amp meter | $2
Thermal grease | $1
Aquarium air pump with air hose and air stone | $10
Water pump | $5
2x Power supply for microcontroller and fans | $1 each
ATmega 328P | $2
3x 12V fans | $2 each
Electronics (cables, transistors, resistors, LEDs etc) | $5
Connectors | $3
Hygrometer | $2
Mesh pots + hydroton | $5
Ball valve| $2
(coming soon) pH and EC monitor | $36

and here's the code on GitHub: https://github.com/linkcharger/barrel-control

At the moment I'm just growing some lemon balm in there, as a kind of test run before I move to the UK, but I'm very excited to see how it works out with trees.. how the plant will behave, training, vigor etc.

Already I can see the immense power of hydroponics: I dug the small lemon balm plants out of soil 4 days ago with small-ish roots and only 3 days later I could already see the beautiful, white new roots flowing out of the pot. Hydro is amazing!

(on the other hand I also had to fight with green goey stuff because a lot of light was getting into the reservoir. Now it's sealed though :) )

It's all a big fun learning process though and I'm sure my little barrel will bring me immense joy in the future.

Happy growing everyone! ;-)

Absolutely. Amazon, like the other guy said, but i'll add that i just bought this instead of a solar filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164VP26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Works just as well just have to hold it or tape it in place so it doesn't fall off.

oh i'd also like to add that unless you have a 400mm lens you're not going to get great photos. You can do 200mm with a 2x teleconverter though - that should be fine. Otherwise, just get your welders glass and ooo and ahhhh like everyone else. Get photos of the cool shadows the eclipse makes!

worth noting i don't have a 200-400 lens and will also be taking pictures of shadows because i can't drop that kind of money right now. Ah well. I'll still be there for it, and i have the nifty glass to watch it through!

>You probably already know this, but be careful moving up a tip size. You can only draw acetylene out at 1/7th the tank size/hr. I've got a B tank, which means I can only go up to about a #1 on the Victor chart. As seems to be the case with everything else OA: If you ignore this rule, you explode.

Wow, I didn't know that, thanks for the tip! I can now thank Reddit for me not dying an explosive, fiery death! :)

I actually don't know what size of tank I have, so I need to go home and measure before I start buying more accessories. My tank is pretty big (got it from a guy who owns an auto body shop) and I think it's what's pictured in this example. I think that makes it a Size 4 tank but I should probably read all the markings and commit them to memory so I don't kill myself.

You didn't miss much with the sale. It was basically just free shipping for the rod. Most of the deals were on arc welding stuff.

If you want to step it down you can get a #00 on Amazon pretty cheap:

http://smile.amazon.com/Welding-Brazing-Nozzle-Victor-Handles/dp/B008C8DIP6/

I work with a firm that makes prototypes for Mass production. My fabrication abilities are mostly in the realm of proof of concept and tolerancing. Because of this we need clean/mechanical smoothness on cuts. I primarily use the plasma with "torch assists" to make the job easier.

I use tools like the [ Swag Offroad] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Circle-Cutter-Small-1-0/dp/B00LBFPDQO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522549209&sr=8-4&keywords=Plasma+cutter+guide) circle cutter, [circle and square guides] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Stencil-Circle-Cutter-Guide/dp/B00OCH0JMQ/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OCH0JMQ&pd_rd_r=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3&pd_rd_w=Uagli&pd_rd_wg=Nxq0b&psc=1&refRID=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3), and a set if [magnetic straight edge holder] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Cutter-Holder-Straight-Stencils/dp/B077YY8XD3/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522549346&sr=1-5&keywords=Magnetic+plasma+guide&dpID=41ifDyHjNTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) for the majority of my work. For proof of concept we stick to combining geometric shapes for ease of building and laying out shapes. I prefer to Tig my assemblies, but you can mig them.

One designer started using a laser cutter for slot style welded sub assembly's. Look at the [certi-flat] (https://weldtables.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0qyqm4OY2gIVE7bACh3FNAdeEAAYASAAEgK99_D_BwE) welding tables and how they assemble together. If you can cut a groove you can make simple slot and groove assemblies. Also, the table is clutch for teaching about jigs (a jig always makes the job betttter) and as a general welding table.

I use a 220v Miller machine that is rated to 5/8" thick, but we never go past 3/16-1/4". It makes for quick and easy work. From an industry standpoint it's much safer - specifically no bottles and no "open flame". There are Sparks so the area needs to be prepped for significant potential for spray.

My next purchase will be a 4x4 plasma table to cut small pieces (laser cutting starts at $1200/sheet) for prototype. You can use the exact same equipment do to repeatable small scale fabrication and Mass production.

Let's put it this way, if you can teach a fabricator how to work in 2D to make something 3D, you've taught that person a valuable skill. Tthe option of a plasma CNC also opens the doors to guys who are good with computers but not so hand eye coordinated.

While Oxy/Fuel will always be around, plasma is what will prepare them the best.

if you just want to get in hours and add welding to your garage I would totally recommend a dual voltage HF start tig welder. buy off amazon and get a 3 year protection plan with good reviews and don't sweat the haters. my Buddy has had a great experience with this one. you will need a bottle and a foot pedal.
https://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-160STH-160amp-Voltage/dp/B00H2VETB6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538001782&sr=8-3&keywords=tig+welder+everlast

then there is this one, no idea on quality, id buy one for fun and see how it goes. just get a warranty. if it only lasts three years it cost you like 30 cents a day.
https://www.amazon.com/Torch-Inverter-Welder-Voltage-Welding/dp/B06XD7TCGN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538002117&sr=8-5&keywords=dual+voltage+tig+welder

That'd be fine for practice, just cleaning up the area so the weld sticks better. You may also wish to eventually go get a cheap grinder (harbor frieght ones are junk, but fine enough to just tooling around and learning.) as well as some 90 degree magnets like these: https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magneitcs-Magnetic-Welding-Holding/dp/B000UCWTXY so you can get the fit right before tacking, and having to do one handed tacks.

Also, your weld looks a bit cold, without much penetration, but that could be because of what you're welding on.

The coating can get a bit funny if they absorb too much moisture, it will be more prone to cracking and spalling off while you're welding. As far as the puddle, that doesn't change significantly. Just keep them as dry as you can, something like this rod can will help. Throw some silica beads in the bottom to help.

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR CHILD BRUSHES HER TEETH EVERY DAY. YOU CAN BUY GOOD QUALITY TOOTHBRUSHES FROM AMAZON.

I used this piece of welding glass (< $6 on Amazon), held to my lens with rubber bands stretched around a reversed lens hood, like this. I used a Canon 24-105 f/4 at 45mm, ISO 400 at f/8 for 181 seconds. The welding glass results in a pretty hideous green tint, so it requires some work in post to correct the colors, but that's part of the fun.

I’m heard of others using this nozzle with success, it’s especially good with abrasive filament.

Do they need to be perfectly spherical?

Here’s a 3” ball bearing but it weighs 4 pounds.

One 3" Inch Chrome Steel Bearing Ball G100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074VCMFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t2wMDb7RV17MG

To get it closer to 1.5 pounds you’ll probably need cast aluminum.

Here’s a 3” steel ball but it weighs 13 ounces. It’s hollow though, so maybe you could drill a hole, fill it full of a material to get it closer to your goal weight, and then refill the hole?

Hollow 3" steel ball weldable DIY project component (2-pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZSPYRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G5wMDb5HD6FEE

What do you need this for and maybe that will make suggestions easier?

Found you a good deal on Amazon, you're welcome

http://www.amazon.com/Fujikura-70R-Splicer-Machine-Only/dp/B00OGQBALM

This just happened to my Win too, but because I fell of my bike and it was in my backpack. I know this doesn't answer your question, but I used a heat gun to mold it back into shape and this stuff to weld the crack: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

​

Its knock off Bondic, pretty sure they are the exact same stuff but this is 80% cheaper.

Probably the best videos as far as seeing the puddle in great detail are the ones produced by Wall Mountain and taught by Steve Bleile. I don't know what kind of camera rig they used, but all their videos are known for showing a close up view of what a welder would see through their lens. Perfect color/clarity.

Strangely enough, I've seen every video in the series except the FCAW one, but I would expect the production quality to be on par with all the others. http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mountain-Flux-Welding-603DVD/dp/B0006ZFRVG

i've been using this chinese Pitbull since January and done several projects with it, as a starting welder that runs 110v it's been fantastic. Stick welders like this are basically one big giant transformer and while it may be light on features it makes things stick to other things....and that's what i bought it for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V663G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For yours the big paint chips missing is probably more what would cause me to not consider this. That and the white paint probably act as a higher contrast. I'd think the crack on mine is one 6th or 8th the length of yours total. Once I got it off the car and cleaned it actually went pretty smoothly soldering it, I did practice on some spare plastic first but it didn't take long will I was moving along fairly quickly. Still think doing a longer section like on yours would have only added about an hour of time to prep and solder. However if you were going to then sand and paint, probably need a bit more time to go over it all again on the outside to fill in the outer crack prior to sanding.

The bumper will usually have printed on it somewhere what material it is, often part of the mold itself so inside will have raised marking, in my case PP signifying polypropylene which seems common for bumpers. In my case, I had a spare body part for a different car that was PP too, so I shaved off strips from it to use. You can also just buy sticks of it which are meant for even more specialized soldering tips. Search for "plastic welding rod" on amazon or elsewhere and they're available in a variety of materials. For example this listing has ABS, PP, PVC, and PE.

Save the money paid on memberships for a year, and put it in a jar. At end of the year, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-160STH-160amp-Voltage/dp/B00H2VETB6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499881459&sr=8-5&keywords=everlast+tig

What about one of these stick or MIG machines? I heard Hobart was a good brand and it seems they have a good presence online.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500502-Stickmate-Welding-Source/dp/B0002PS7SU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374536041&sr=1-2&keywords=arc+welder

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500420-Stickmate-Welding-Source/dp/B00004WHGG/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374536041&sr=1-10&keywords=arc+welder

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500549-Auto-Wire-Welder/dp/B002VECKTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374536041&sr=1-1&keywords=arc+welder#productDetails

I'd probably prefer to go the flux core or stick route to avoid the cost of the gas and tank.

Its probably the same one I am using. This it?

It seems to be capable of producing a decent looking weld.

Some turned out better than others. I wasn't working with the cleanest parts and it was also thin metal. I just need to get some time and practice under my belt.

I wonder if a torch striker would work, like OK one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Forney-86111-Torch-Igniter-Electronic/dp/B003X5T6FO/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t

I like these better: https://smile.amazon.com/Hobart-770028-Welding-Holder-Electrode/dp/B0017Z1T98

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K1297-225-Welder/dp/B000GBORWK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1372724922&sr=1-2&keywords=Arc+welding+AC+DC

This one is a bit cheaper than the manufacturers. A Bit. It'll save you money on electrodes :p

By "Welding glass" do you mean just a 10-stop filter or an actual welding glass? Now that I'm looking at those, seems like getting an actual welding glass would be many times cheaper than a filter of similar transparency.

I wonder if it's an arc welder. Something like this perhaps

Here's the two I was looking at; sounds like the stick welder is the way to go for beginners and is cheaper to operate.

• Amazon: Stick Welder
  
• Amazon: Wire Welder

Does your school have an auto shop? They might have a DC welder that would put out voltages as high as you want. Similar to this unit on Amazon.

I don't know how precise they would be though...

I'm guessing you'll want a TIG machine with High Frequency start.

Here's one for $488 on Amazon.

Click Me for their website.

[Here's a video of the machine in action.]
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CblpZF54_uM)

I'm no expert but, I'm fairly certain that's what you're looking for. Maybe someone else can chime in.

This "5 second fix" infomercial stuff is pretty decent for mending plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

I don't think it would hold up for anything that requires pressure/torque but it works decent for putting a lot of my kids' toys back together (like little plastic Pokemon figures).

I only will be using the fisheye in daylight. I have this thing called
5 second fix that I have been considering to use.

Plugs into a regular outlet with 90 amps. Tig stick with footpedal

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H2VETB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464282986&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=everlast+160&dpPl=1&dpID=51X3Ug%2BOP4L&ref=plSrch

you could try 5 second fix https://www.amazon.com/Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MB0JF6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_GgSKDbEK32CB0 tada

Most welding helmets have adjustable shades/darkness from #9 to #13. It would be a little silly to go buy a $45 welding from Harbor Freight just to view the eclipse, but you can buy the glass at most hardware stores for around $10 (usually come in a 5"x5" sheet)|

Edit: for everyone looking you can buy these sheets of lens
https://www.amazon.com/US-Forge-00097-Shaded-Welding/dp/B00164VP26

Holy crap, I need some of that. The magnet that holds my in-cabinet garbage can shut just fell off its mounting and superglue won't hold it on. Got an Amazon link?

EDIT:

Google exists

You can try a harbor freight / hardware store for welding goggles. From a quick Google search you need a shade 12 or higher I believe.

Or hold this up to your face?
https://www.amazon.com/US-Forge-00097-Shaded-Welding/dp/B00164VP26

Good luck, kind of crazy and probably a shame for a lot of people that glasses are sold out