(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement chassis products

'99 Intrigue and '00 Century here.

Second gen W-body was a better car than the first gen. Very easy architecture to mess around with.

This is a VERY GOOD car for messing around with. Parts are very cheap and interchange with a huge variety of GM vehicles. You can get performance-grade parts out of the junkyard and build a very good handling car with a smooth ride for next to nothing.

Those factory trailing arms are some shit though. Replace them with the Dorman tubular ones, they are much better than stock and come with bushings.

If your brackets are rusted as in OP's photo, $14 fixes that

If you wanna talk W-body suspension:

The front control arm bushings are a shitty rubber design too and usually fail within 150k miles. Replace with Moog ball-and-socket design, part # K200787 ($23 on RockAuto). Rust is not horrible in my area so I re-used the original control arms, gave them a good coat of anti-rust paint though. Even if you just get new control arms (if you do, buy control arms with greaseable ball joints), I suggest pressing out the supplied bushings and replacing with the Moog part. Noticeable improvement in ride.

Hollow factory front sway bar on W-bodies tends to rust, and the crimped ends tend to crack. Replace with Dorman 927100 solid sway bar. DO NOT use the bushings and links that come with the sway bar, they are garbage and will start squeaking within 15,000 miles. Use Moog K700527 links (with polyurethane bushings and barrel nuts) and Moog K80815 sway bar bushings (polyurethane), lube with silicone grease before install.

Your car will ride like new after this (assuming the struts are in good shape). I know it sounds like a lot but we are talking around $200 for like-new ride, maybe $300 if you want brand new control arms.

The outer tie rod ends are also a weak point. Again, Moog makes a noticeably better one than the competitors.

If/when your old struts are shot (hint, if you're over 100k miles, they probably are), buy the ones spec'd for the Intrigue. Better handling, same cost. Get springs out of an Intrigue (front Intrigue springs were also used on Aurora, LeSabre, and Bonneville, rear Intrigue springs were also used on v8 Impala, v8 Grand Prix, and v8 Monte Carlo) in the junkyard. While you're in the junkyard, get a strut tower bar out of a Regal or Monte Carlo (some police Impalas might have them too?)

When the time comes for brakes, there are also "junkyard upgrades" available -- some work with 16" wheels, some require 17" wheels.

I don't know everything about cars, but I know a lot about W-body suspensions!

I love the GM w-body. It's a cheap platform, reliable, and easy to work on. Of course, I live south of the Mason-Dixon, so I don't have the rust issues they do up north.

No, but neither do the other kits.

If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.

That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.

a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).

What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.

Save your cash and do it right the first time.

You can crank your existing torsion keys for ~2” of lift, don’t bother getting other ones, there’s no real need to swap them.

What you want is a spindle lift for the “edge” model. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEN3J6E/

The ‘11 /MIGHT/ get unhappy about being lifted though. The roll stability control computer isn’t going to know what is going on, which is part of why I think most companies list their parts as being compatible only to ‘09 or ‘10 even though the parts physically will fit. I haven’t tried lifting mine yet, and haven’t heard a definitive answer either way from anybody else so far, so it could be totally fine.

In addition, you’ll need an SCT tuner, or a copy of HP Tuner’s VCM and their tuning device (what I have myself) in order to let the computer know any changes to tire size or gear ratio, if you want your speedometer to be correct after changing things. Neither of those choices are particularly cheap, and sadly you can’t change our model year with the free FORScan app like most of the older years can. I just want to make sure you know what you’re getting into before you get too deep. ;)

I think those are the v8 ZJ springs.

Great tip about the discount for the leaf springs.

I have the exact same plan as you op, but also planned to add these spacers in front (Daystar, Jeep TJ Wrangler 0.75" Front or Rear Lift Kit, fits TJ, Cherokee XJ and ZJ 1984 to 2006 4WD, all transmissions, KJ09107BK, Made in America https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GH1OB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b7rFAb05XSQNR )

And an Iron Rock off-road 3/4" shackle.

Was going to try and get by with some kyb gr2 shocks, have to check the numbers on them first hopefully they'll still fit. My xj is just a daily though, will probably never go over a curb.

Here’s the link to the complete kit don’t remember it being this expensive as I bought it for my SR5 which has different side badges


https://pure4runner.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=120_122&products_id=4127&zenid=fq5f18qoamjlpdhpeti1v00lh2

But for the price it’s a solid offering and a cleaner look that plasti dip imo

Here’s a link to the red d rings/shackles


Shackles 3/4" (2 PACK) LIBERRWAY D ring Shackle Rugged Unbreakable 28.5 Ton (57,000 Lbs) Maximum Break Strength with 7/8'' Pin Bow Screw Heavy Duty D Ring for Jeep Vehicle Recovery, Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N4VNS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jUmUDbGC4VXQY

Optional for the d rings

1 Pair Black D-Ring Isolator and 4 Pcs Washers,Shackle Isolator Kit Protect Your Bumper and Reduce Rattling,Fit for Jeep Off-road Vehicle SUV ATV UTV Truck 4WD--AutoSky

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073B368MP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vYmUDbNV2ATWY

Sorry about formatting on mobile device at work

Supreme Suspensions - Cherokee Lift Kit 2" Front Suspension Lift + Adjustable 1.5" - 2" Rear Suspension Lift + Transfer Case Drop Kit Jeep Cherokee XJ Leveling Kit (Black) PRO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IU34QH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F2AfAbPGR2753
Comes with a transfer case drop if it's wobbling at high speeds after installing it but mine didn't need it. I got a shop to do it for me and it got pretty expensive for the shocks and everything, but I'm glad I didn't do it myself he was telling me all the crap that he had to work around and I wouldn't have been able to deal with it. Very worth it though

MotoFab Lifts F150-2.5BLUE - 2.5" Front Leveling Lift Kit That Will Raise The Front Of Your F150 2.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FPDLWD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_r9mH8cw38doe2


Well its 60 not 40 but its a good kit 🤷‍♂️.

These are the front spacers I'm going with.

I know most people here don't like AAL but I'm trying to save whatever I can, this isn't my daily. If I experience sag in the back I'm going to be adding the Rough Country Shackle Relocators. Another option is the rancho 1.5" leaf springs.

It’s a Supreme Suspensions 3” front + 2” rear kit. Got it on cyber Monday for 50% off. Price went back up to $180 unfortunately. It set my camber off about 2° on the front right side but the guys at the dealership said it’s an easy fix and if the truck doesn’t pull not to worry about it. I haven’t noticed it pulling at all so no harm there. Just need to put some knobby tires on it and tint the windows and she’ll be all set.

i used these: https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1371200-Budget-Boost/dp/B006D9VYKC . your shackle angles will likely be too steep like mine though.

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the job is diy, but it is a bitch to do because of the rusted and seized bolts. you'll need a few cans of pb blaster and a map gas torch and a 21mm socket and a coil spring compressor (you can probably rent one for free at autozone).

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you're better off replacing the coils and springs while you're at it, though.

I ordered mine from Amazon.ca https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N3T00UA/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_3p_dp_1

The installation is a bit tricky so make sure you have confidence in whoever's doing it and I would get them to watch this video first.
https://youtu.be/IAw5pIKKg0o
Similar to the truxxx® kit
I took mine to a 4X4 offroad specialty shop and it took them 6hrs on a 3.5 hour job. Its been a couple of weeks and no problems or issues at all.
It drives great!

I've been researching tires as well and going to go with Hankook Dynapro AT2 (RF11) 265/60 r18 114T. They are slightly smaller by millimeters compared to other brands of the same size and should prevent the rubbing issue. (I can confirm next weekend). The fuel mileage will change and odometer will be slightly off but not a big deal.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!

(Update:) 11/2/19
Just had the Hankooks put on and I'm happy to report that there are NO rubbing issues at all.

Yes. I used 2" shackles that I bought off Amazon. these

Thanks for the input. What about just a Shock extender?

Hey OP Make that fit snug! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2BKY0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Suspensions-Aircraft-Spacers-U-Bolts/dp/B00V7GHRMA

$150 bucks. Not bad and will totally chance the look of you truck

you can get weld in rails on amazon

bolt in ones seem to be unavailable from amazon

A few years back I owned a 2000 Forester and I did this http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=3269 using these (https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Offroad-Bulk-Tall-Block/dp/B0021IAOQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518810540&sr=1-1&refinements=p_4%3AZone+Offroad+Products).

Drove it for about 6 months, including off roading, before I sold the vehicle. Worked well and cost less than $100, including the cost of camber bolts.

RE 5.5" lift leafs certainly do NOT call for stock shackles.


You need a boomarang shackle that is at least 2" longer than stock, such as an RE 2705.

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https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE2705-Boomerang-Shackle/dp/B006GJKIVU

Really the only steering part that is a ZJ upgrade is Moog DS1312. Everything else (tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, drag link, track bar) are all the same on the XJ & ZJ. It's weird that just one component is different, but like I said in an earlier post when you compare the two you will WTF at how significant the difference is. Going to the ZJ tie rod is a no-brainer even for people who just want to stay OEM.

In your original post it says you're at 2" of lift which is close to where I'm at also. The stock track bar is fine for that height. If/when you go to a taller lift it seems 3.5"-4" is the breaking point for getting rid of the OEM track bar and going to an adjustable. I'm planning on going either Old Man Emu or Rubicon Express later this year, and if I do I'm getting the Rubicon Express double shear track bar assembly along with the track bar brace. RE says it's for 4" and above, but from talking to several different shops the consensus is that you'll probably get more lift than advertised out of most kits because the springs need to settle.
RE1660 Track Bar - $143
RE1665 Track Bar Bracket - $70
RE1670 Track Bar Bracket Brace - $80

Got it from Amazon but I still needed a couple rubber washers to fully snug it up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J2BKY0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qaQUibQQlSpoN

Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So you have a 3 inch lift and added shackles what kind which ones?

Would this work...

https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Suspensions-Cherokee-Suspension-Adjustable/dp/B00IU34QH2?crid=QY1LY357HBDB&keywords=jeep+xj+shackles&qid=1537474159&sprefix=jeep+xj+shackl&sr=8-5&ref=mp_s_a_1_5

Curious - was this the new or old track bar?

http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU

Part number 7572.

Was eyeing it up, since its cheap and also rebuildable with moog tre's.

I have seen a few rare reviews of them breaking, but usually only with hard offroading. Either way a track bar is NOT something you want to fail.

May just spend more on a double sheer or something like that.